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post #61 of 5491 Old 09-01-2007, 10:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don_Kellogg View Post

I'd post but what would be the point ... dam flash light ha

Oh I got somethin' fo yo ass.....

Give me a minute to dig it up......

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post #62 of 5491 Old 09-01-2007, 10:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok, found it.

RS1 vs. Sony G90 stack green grid:



Cliffy

P.S. look down for more.
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post #63 of 5491 Old 09-01-2007, 10:54 PM - Thread Starter
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RS1 color bars:



Convergence:



Cliffy
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post #64 of 5491 Old 09-01-2007, 10:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don_Kellogg View Post

I'd post but what would be the point ... dam flash light ha

My screen shot is from a flash light.

It is all about quality...that is the picture

JVC & NEC 8" CRT with 106" wide Stewart screen. All NHT speakers driven by Pioneer Elite AVR and bluray

Custom dedicated 8 seat theater

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post #65 of 5491 Old 09-01-2007, 10:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok guys, here we go.

















:^)
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post #66 of 5491 Old 09-01-2007, 11:01 PM - Thread Starter
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post #67 of 5491 Old 09-01-2007, 11:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Boy, I've got some kick ass screenshots from that RS1. Smoking ass projector. I really like it a lot. It's not a G90 stack, but for what it costs, dump a 300 watt UHP bulb, some better colorimatry adjustments and bammmmm.

Bump the contrast for me please too to about 40,000 to one and I will jump in a HEARTBEAT.

One thing though. I'm waiting for my tubes to wear.

You guys are witnessing me in absolute nirvana. I couldn't ask for better.

Thank God for this forum. AVS has been the BEST hangout since day one for me. If it wasn't for AVS, a lot of us would not have become family.









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post #68 of 5491 Old 09-01-2007, 11:39 PM
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Thank you sir I still can't believe my RS1 looked like that on a 10' screen. I'll just have to live with my sub 9' (104") for now. Still looks like that after 247 hours on the bulb.

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post #69 of 5491 Old 09-01-2007, 11:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don_Kellogg View Post

Thank you sir I still can't believe my RS1 looked like that on a 10' screen. I'll just have to live with my sub 9' (104") for now. Still looks like that after 247 hours on the bulb.

Dude, EVERYTHING about that projector is kick ass except just that little bit of UMPH on light.

It's coming.

Now give me that full FTB (LASER), not make it TOO SHARP, retain that film look on a big ass screen and like I said before, BAMMMMMMMMMM!

So Don, when I told you that you would be happy with your decision did you believe me?



Cliffy
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post #70 of 5491 Old 09-02-2007, 12:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overclkr View Post

Bump the contrast for me please too to about 40,000 to one and I will jump in a HEARTBEAT.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=901155

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post #71 of 5491 Old 09-02-2007, 03:39 AM
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I had a bit of work to do in the community yesterday, so I'll have to post shots starting today.











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post #72 of 5491 Old 09-02-2007, 03:41 AM
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More...








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post #73 of 5491 Old 09-02-2007, 03:43 AM
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More







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post #74 of 5491 Old 09-02-2007, 03:47 AM
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1920x1080P @ 72hz











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post #75 of 5491 Old 09-02-2007, 03:50 AM
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post #76 of 5491 Old 09-02-2007, 03:51 AM
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post #77 of 5491 Old 09-02-2007, 03:54 AM
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Shot with Canon PowerShot A560 at 2007-07-07


Shot with Canon PowerShot A560 at 2007-07-07


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post #78 of 5491 Old 09-02-2007, 03:57 AM
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post #79 of 5491 Old 09-02-2007, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Murrell View Post

yep I noticed that, pretty bad

I promise all camera related Terry

any of you DC junkies out there have any explanation for the red push? these are with the Panasonic TZ1

-Gary

Gary, try to set the white balance manually using this procedure:


Instead of pointing the camera at a white sheet of paper, point it at a full white screen from your source (make sure the white area fills the whole sensor/viewfinder). Maybe your VP50 has a full white test pattern you can use.

Kai
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post #80 of 5491 Old 09-02-2007, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overclkr View Post

Dude, EVERYTHING about that projector is kick ass except just that little bit of UMPH on light.

It's coming.

Now give me that full FTB (LASER), not make it TOO SHARP, retain that film look on a big ass screen and like I said before, BAMMMMMMMMMM!

So Don, when I told you that you would be happy with your decision did you believe me?



Cliffy


Cliff your a friend, a gentlemen and a person I look up to. You would never steer me wrong, you were 100% right about this unit. Looking at rumors this coming year may bring some very good options. I only have on regret, they will keep getting better of course I could upgrade but..

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post #81 of 5491 Old 09-02-2007, 08:41 AM
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I forget what the proper name is, but can't you just put a Kodak Grey Sheet in frame an use that to make sure the White / Black levels are right by adjusting your levels in photoshop. This would not change the level of the black / white levels rather allow you to set them properly calibration since you know what they are suppose to be. I have used one of these grey bars in the past while working on camera / 3d model mapping.

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post #82 of 5491 Old 09-02-2007, 08:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:

200W Bulb.

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post #83 of 5491 Old 09-02-2007, 08:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mp20748 View Post

I had a bit of work to do in the community yesterday, so I'll have to post shots starting today.


Kick ass Mike!!!!! Very nice!!!! Today is the day for me to do some new ones. I'm gonna see what I can dig up.

Does anybody know how or if I can make the Toshiba A1 do frame advance?

Cliffy
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post #84 of 5491 Old 09-02-2007, 10:41 AM
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Other than the 200 watt bulb I'd bite, but never know it might be more effective than my RS1, it has pretty much everything that I would like the Motorized Zoom, half step on converge, more contrast, grey scale adjustment. I wonder what the MSRPness of this will be.

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post #85 of 5491 Old 09-02-2007, 11:36 AM
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post #86 of 5491 Old 09-02-2007, 11:39 AM
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post #87 of 5491 Old 09-02-2007, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kschmit2 View Post

Gary, try to set the white balance manually using this procedure:


Instead of pointing the camera at a white sheet of paper, point it at a full white screen from your source (make sure the white area fills the whole sensor/viewfinder). Maybe your VP50 has a full white test pattern you can use.

Kai

thanks dude, will give it a try

-Gary
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post #88 of 5491 Old 09-02-2007, 11:42 AM
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post #89 of 5491 Old 09-02-2007, 11:42 AM
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post #90 of 5491 Old 09-02-2007, 11:42 AM
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now, those are some screenshots Mike

-Gary
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