Help With Car Audio Please - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 30 Old 11-30-2009, 10:28 PM - Thread Starter
Newbie
 
J Dubb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hello everyone, I'm new to subwoofers and amps, but I need some help.

I have a 2001 Ford Focus, and want to know which subs and amp would be best for it, and specifications.

I am mostly looking for something that will make the bass vibrate the whole car and vision, when turned up high. I also would want clear sound (Being able to clearly hear the words).

My price range for now is $1,000. After Christmas I may or may not have more, so we will start from there.

All help is appreciated, thanks. Send a private message if you have any questions, or just post here.
J Dubb is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 30 Old 12-01-2009, 07:09 AM
Advanced Member
 
mlkmgr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Meskwaki Nation
Posts: 565
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
there are hundreds of options out there for an improved sound system. you will need to upgrade all speakers for improved clarity along with a new head unit. if i were you, i would start by going to www.crutchfield.com and begin checking out head units with different feature sets (bluetooth, ipod, usb, aux input, rca outputs, etc). pick a head unit and then begin to price out subs and then the amp can be determined after. correct box size is crucial as well. start over there and post back.
mlkmgr is offline  
post #3 of 30 Old 12-01-2009, 07:27 AM - Thread Starter
Newbie
 
J Dubb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Ok thanks, but can you tell me why I need new speakers and headunit?
J Dubb is offline  
post #4 of 30 Old 12-01-2009, 08:09 AM
Advanced Member
 
mlkmgr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Meskwaki Nation
Posts: 565
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
you stated "clear sound". at high volumes your factory speakers will not be able to keep up with the bass you appear to want. they will be drowned out and potentially distort. a new HU will allow better control over the entire system and greater flexibility in adjustments.

if you want to start with just amp and sub(s), you can purchase a line out converter (LOC) and splice into your rear factory speaker wires. the LOC will replace the need for purchasing a new HU with rca pre-outs. you will then simply need to run power and remote turn on to the amp.
mlkmgr is offline  
post #5 of 30 Old 12-01-2009, 08:28 AM - Thread Starter
Newbie
 
J Dubb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Which is the cheaper option?
J Dubb is offline  
post #6 of 30 Old 12-01-2009, 08:30 AM - Thread Starter
Newbie
 
J Dubb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Ok, I looked at some speakers.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_20607DS...50.html?tp=105

The above link are "Kickers". Would that work for my 2001 Ford Focus?
J Dubb is offline  
post #7 of 30 Old 12-01-2009, 09:58 AM
Advanced Member
 
mlkmgr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Meskwaki Nation
Posts: 565
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
cheapest option is the LOC method. otherwise you will have no choice but to purchase a new HU. your factory radio does not have pre-outs for external amp hook up.

again, any subs will work. find one(s) in your price range and you can easily mate an amp to it. the speakers you referenced above are door speakers. if you are looking for the cheapest alternative, you need subs only. start with a 12" or larger sub(s) if you want that boomy sound.

is your focus a hatchback or 4 door?
mlkmgr is offline  
post #8 of 30 Old 12-01-2009, 03:49 PM - Thread Starter
Newbie
 
J Dubb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Thanks for the help. My Focus is a four-door. The trunk isn't that big, that's why I also would like to know if a 12" would even fit. So the Kicker speakers aren't needed? And what's a good brand of sub for nasty bass? Thanks again.
J Dubb is offline  
post #9 of 30 Old 12-02-2009, 04:34 AM
Member
 
jbinn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 59
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
You have a 1,000 spending limit?? I'm guessing your seat folds down right?? I imagine you're not too good with building subwoofer boxes so you're going to have to go with a prefabricated one... Do you need to order off of crutchfield or are other vendors possible? (ebay , hifiaudiosurround , car-audio.com etc.) Forget about the speakers, they'll do fine on an 01 vehicle my prix has stock speakers that are junk and keep up with my bass... Also, you WILL NEED a head unit if you want any type of good sound and adjustment, Head Units are responsible for bass/treble adjustments and curtain HU's have subwoofer adjustments etc. So we'll start there..

You'll want a HU that offers atleast 50x4 (which is 4 channel 50 watts per channel, this will allow your speakers in the car to perform better.) The headunit must also include RCA output (for amplifier) and remote output (for amplifier) and if you plan to use MP3 or IPOD's you'll want to look into those features. I recommend Pioneer , Alpine or JVC (yes JVC is the best HU I have bought for the price...)

(I'm going to use eBAY to order your parts as they offer the best pricing on new audio equipment including warrantys If you prefer not using eBAY you can source the parts yourself but prices will vary.)

HeadUnit Choices:

Alpine CDA-9887: (This is literally alpines best head unit and for under $300 it's a steal concidering they RETAIL MSRP @ $460.00 USD If the Alpine is too expensive for your tastes go with Pioneer or JVC both more affordable choices that meet your needs. Alpine home site: alpine.com

LINK: http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-ALPINE-CDA-9...ht_6173wt_1165

Total: $269.00USD Including Shipping

or go wit the alpine cda9815 that's about 69$ cheaper and you can buy if off alpines site... this will save you money on wiring AND an enclosure... so if you want EXACTLY $1000 spent on this setup.. you'll need to get the cheaper HU to make costs match up.
-----
For a subwoofer you want as close as a 0 ohm load as possible to gather the most power and boomyest sound (boomyest? sp lol) so basically you'll want a dual voice coil subwoofer that runs 2 ohm impedence, the reason we cant 2 ohm with two voice coils is that you can bridge that single 2 ohm subwoofer into a single 1 ohm receiver. You'll also want upwards of a 12-15" subwoofer to give proper cone area for SPL and SQ (I also recommend round subs for this since they have more sound quality as opposed to SPL squares: L5 / L7 / Solo -X) and the last but not least you'll want a high amount of RMS wattage (don't look for peak, just RMS because the RMS wattage is what you'll want your amp to output at a safe level so optimum subwoofer output.)

MY opinion on best brand choices: Ascention Audio , Kicker , JL Audio , Fi Audio , RE Audio. RE Audio , Kicker and JL Audio are probably the most expensive line of subwoofers depending on size/model. We will rule out JL Audio since I don't think their bang for buck is worth it in this aspect... Kicker L5/L7's are awesome but like I said I don't like Square subwoofers so I'm going to detail you with an Fi Audio setup trust me you will thank me.. Their woofers are hand made in america and offer 2 year solid warrentys as well as excellent technical support their site: Ficaraudio.com

Ok, you have a choice here... a single 18" Fi BTL or two 15" Fi BL's... the BL's will be louder but require less power RMS (meaning future proofing them will be harder since bigger amps will peak them...) or a single 18" Fi BTL which has a bit more RMS... (another reason I love Fi Audio is the addons you'll see what I mean) whatever you decide will depend on the size of your box... I recommend about 6cubes (cube feet) for the 18" and 3.5cu ft per 15" so 7cu ft or so for the two 15" if you can fit the two 15" go that route... or buy the single 18" and buy another one later on if you can fit it, whatever you decide... ultimatly the two 15's will be louder and more affordable.

Subwoofer Choices:

2x Fi BT 15" Subwoofers -2x 1000W RMS = 2000RMS two 1000RMS subs require 2000RMS @ 1ohm DVC
1x Fi BTL 18" Subwoofer - 1 x 2000RMS = 2000RMS single 2000RMS subwoofer @ 1ohm DVC

Remember the addons I was talking about Fi allows you to customize your sub in a curtain way on the right hand side on their site:

https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraud...iew.shopscript

Go there and choose BTL or BL w/e one you decide and on the right side choose dual 1 ohm for 1 ohm impedence load... if you get the single 18" choose a dual 2 ohm since when you wire it in series it will take a 1 ohm load. On the addons below that add these for maximum bass:

Hyper Pole - YES (adds stability to coil)
Cooling - YES (adds cooling for the coil)
Flatwind - YES (adds more SPL or RMS/PEAK power enabling extra 200-400RMS)
Choose Daily not SPL as you dont want to overwhelm your subs with daily usage

for the BL choose the same or the BTL eigther one choose the same stuff...
these subwoofer in the right enclosure in the right vehicle with the right setup has net about 136-142dB which is competition level, not only will your eyes roll to the back of your head but anyone within 10 feet of your car will feel the bass shake their pants etc. Go with these, or some of the others I listed DONT go with KICKER/JLAUDIO even though they are incredible brands.... they are overpriced in the end. A single SSD 15" Fi is louder than a CVX and nominally "worse." the BTL and BT are just lightyears ahead of all the companies in terms of quality and loudness.

Total : $600.00USD including shipping
-----
Most amplifier companies will not display a TRUE RMS (remember we always look at RMS because PEAK power is bad, that just means when your equipment will fry/blow STAY FAR AWAY FROM PEAK... You'll want an amp that is MONO and is a D BLOCK (D block is mostly for subwoofers and high outputs and MONO is just a single channel which means more concentrated power.) You'll want an amp that can handle 1/2OHM impedence or just 1 ohm since that's what you'll be running since we want to get as close to 0 ohm as possible... You might also want to take this time to invest in some really good 2000WATT wiring with 0/1 gauge wiring (this stuff gets expensive) you can buy RCA/speaker wire/power wire in a kit for probably $80 give or take this is all you will need VIA wiring. I also wouldnt recommend any system over 2000RMS since by that time you will need a better altenator and another battery, 2000RMS is the safe zone for stock car electrical systems since thats what I run with semi-bad light flickers, but forget all of that...

Good amp brands consist of: JBL , Hifonics , Kicker , Alpine , Power Acoustik , Lanzar Optidrive.

Once against JBL , Kicker and Alpine are far too expensive so we're going to go with power acoustik for this one... Power acoustik are cheaper brand if you find that too expensive.. Remember how I told you about amps not putting out true RMS well these are the bands that often do... Most amps will run 2 or 3 impedences usually: 2ohm / 4 ohm and 1 ohm) Since we're running 1 OHM you want to find an amp that does 1 OHM output RMS @ 2000 watts so it will look like that 2000W RMS x 1 OHM LOAD.

Amplifiers:

1x 2000RMS @ 1 OHM Power Acoustik BAMF-4000/1D that means its peak rating is 4000W MONO D BLOCK notice 4000W is PEAK? dont touch that lol, go RMS which is 2000 in this case its actually 2200RMS which gives you a little head room.

http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...id/0/SFV/30046

Total: 209.95USD including shipping

You'll want a Vented BOX for optimum loudness, sealed for sound quality so if you care about sound quality more than dB's get the sealed, but I recommned vented always... you can get a dual vented (dual as in two 15" slots) for about $50 on ebay... the 18" vented you'll have to build or search around they are hard to find..... eigther way you're looking at $50 for the box and $50-70 for the wiring kit.. So the TOTAL after EVERYTHING is said and done:

Subwoofers: 2x 15" BL Fi 1000RMS ea. 1x 18" BL Fi 2000RMS ea.
Amplifier: 2200 x 1 OHM RMS Power Acoustik BAMF 4000/1D
Head Unit: Alpine CDA-9887 or Alpine 9512 (model sp?)
Wiring Kit: Any Scosche etc. wiring kit at bestbuy etc. 0-4guage recommended 2000wat
Subwoofer Enclosure: dual 15" vented enclosure or single 18" vented

TOTAL COST: 1109.00USD including shipping all items have 2 Year + warrantys

DONT BELIEVE ME?!?!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7TiBvlPSfvU

Yeah look at that windshield thats what ONLY 140+ dB's look like yep =) go with my build I provided you won't be upset.
jbinn is offline  
post #10 of 30 Old 12-02-2009, 09:03 AM
Advanced Member
 
mlkmgr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Meskwaki Nation
Posts: 565
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
be leary of buying off ebay. the warranties are not through the mfg, but through the seller itself. there is no guarantee they will honor or follow up once the sale is completed. as with all internet transactions, especially ebay: buyer beware.

i won't even get into the rest of the post. good luck OP.
mlkmgr is offline  
post #11 of 30 Old 12-02-2009, 02:47 PM
Member
 
jbinn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 59
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
No... eBAY is factory sealed products sold straight from the factory warehouse... places like cheapcaraudio.com etc. are actual sellers of the company, like how crutchfield sells items with their warrenty, it's not through an individual themselves I bought an item off ebay, brought it to my local sound shop got a new subwoofer with it, it's just as solid as buying from a store.
jbinn is offline  
post #12 of 30 Old 12-02-2009, 02:48 PM
Member
 
jbinn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 59
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Just make sure you buy NEW products that are stated with a sealed factory stamp, should be relativly easy to spot... all the links I gave provide this.
jbinn is offline  
post #13 of 30 Old 12-02-2009, 03:15 PM
Advanced Member
 
mlkmgr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Meskwaki Nation
Posts: 565
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
well for the link you provided, the warranty is NOT thru the mfg (Alpine). read the Terms and Conditions section:

By Bidding on the item, the bidder agrees:

...All sales are final. Warranty provided via advertised warranty provider (which in this case is the seller, not the mfg). Seller will assist with replacement only if item is defective within the warranty conditions.

the seller you listed is a highly rated seller, but for peace of mind with warranty purchases, I would purchase from an authorized retailer so you are not forced to send back to "emilyandlily" for warranty issues.

from the alpine site:

The limited warranty covers the original purchaser, and product must be purchased from an authorized Alpine dealer.

i don't believe ebay seller "emilyandlily" counts as an authorized dealer.
 
mlkmgr is offline  
post #14 of 30 Old 12-02-2009, 04:46 PM - Thread Starter
Newbie
 
J Dubb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Thanks alot! I may need your help on finding the right wiring kit for my Focus and how to find out my Focus' trunk space. But other than that, here's my list of what I'll get and you tell me how you think it will work out:

Head Unit

JVC Arsenal KD-A605

$150

Link: http://signature.crutchfield.com/App...ssi=0&skipvs=T


Subs

BL15 (x2)

$588

Link: You know where that's located.


Amp

Power Acoustik BAMF4000/1D 4000W

$209.95

Link: Again, you know.


Enclosure

Dual 15" Vented Enclosure

$69.95

Link: http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...id/0/SFV/30046


Wiring Kit

None, until I find one that works for my 2001 Ford Focus.



TOTAL: $1,017.90 + Whatever the price will be for the Wiring Kit.


Thanks again, get back to me asap if you can
J Dubb is offline  
post #15 of 30 Old 12-02-2009, 05:32 PM
Advanced Member
 
mlkmgr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Meskwaki Nation
Posts: 565
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
i would have a box built for your specific application. the box in which the sub is in plays an important role in overall sound production. the recommended box size is 3-5 cu ft. the box you show only lists each chamber as 2.4 cu ft per sub.

you will need to measure your trunk as well to verify you have adequate clearance for the box. as far as wiring kits, they are not vehicle specific. check www.knukonceptz.com. they have very nice kits that don't cost an arm and a leg. with the amount of power you intend on running, purchase 0/1 gauge wiring kit. upgrade the big 3. google it if you don't know what that is. good luck.
mlkmgr is offline  
post #16 of 30 Old 12-02-2009, 06:01 PM - Thread Starter
Newbie
 
J Dubb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I didn't see a 0/1 Gauge kit. There was a 1/0 though.
J Dubb is offline  
post #17 of 30 Old 12-02-2009, 06:06 PM - Thread Starter
Newbie
 
J Dubb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by jbinn View Post

You have a 1,000 spending limit?? I'm guessing your seat folds down right?? I imagine you're not too good with building subwoofer boxes so you're going to have to go with a prefabricated one... Do you need to order off of crutchfield or are other vendors possible? (ebay , hifiaudiosurround , car-audio.com etc.) Forget about the speakers, they'll do fine on an 01 vehicle my prix has stock speakers that are junk and keep up with my bass... Also, you WILL NEED a head unit if you want any type of good sound and adjustment, Head Units are responsible for bass/treble adjustments and curtain HU's have subwoofer adjustments etc. So we'll start there..

You'll want a HU that offers atleast 50x4 (which is 4 channel 50 watts per channel, this will allow your speakers in the car to perform better.) The headunit must also include RCA output (for amplifier) and remote output (for amplifier) and if you plan to use MP3 or IPOD's you'll want to look into those features. I recommend Pioneer , Alpine or JVC (yes JVC is the best HU I have bought for the price...)

(I'm going to use eBAY to order your parts as they offer the best pricing on new audio equipment including warrantys If you prefer not using eBAY you can source the parts yourself but prices will vary.)

HeadUnit Choices:

Alpine CDA-9887: (This is literally alpines best head unit and for under $300 it's a steal concidering they RETAIL MSRP @ $460.00 USD If the Alpine is too expensive for your tastes go with Pioneer or JVC both more affordable choices that meet your needs. Alpine home site: alpine.com

LINK: http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-ALPINE-CDA-9...ht_6173wt_1165

Total: $269.00USD Including Shipping

or go wit the alpine cda9815 that's about 69$ cheaper and you can buy if off alpines site... this will save you money on wiring AND an enclosure... so if you want EXACTLY $1000 spent on this setup.. you'll need to get the cheaper HU to make costs match up.
-----
For a subwoofer you want as close as a 0 ohm load as possible to gather the most power and boomyest sound (boomyest? sp lol) so basically you'll want a dual voice coil subwoofer that runs 2 ohm impedence, the reason we cant 2 ohm with two voice coils is that you can bridge that single 2 ohm subwoofer into a single 1 ohm receiver. You'll also want upwards of a 12-15" subwoofer to give proper cone area for SPL and SQ (I also recommend round subs for this since they have more sound quality as opposed to SPL squares: L5 / L7 / Solo -X) and the last but not least you'll want a high amount of RMS wattage (don't look for peak, just RMS because the RMS wattage is what you'll want your amp to output at a safe level so optimum subwoofer output.)

MY opinion on best brand choices: Ascention Audio , Kicker , JL Audio , Fi Audio , RE Audio. RE Audio , Kicker and JL Audio are probably the most expensive line of subwoofers depending on size/model. We will rule out JL Audio since I don't think their bang for buck is worth it in this aspect... Kicker L5/L7's are awesome but like I said I don't like Square subwoofers so I'm going to detail you with an Fi Audio setup trust me you will thank me.. Their woofers are hand made in america and offer 2 year solid warrentys as well as excellent technical support their site: Ficaraudio.com

Ok, you have a choice here... a single 18" Fi BTL or two 15" Fi BL's... the BL's will be louder but require less power RMS (meaning future proofing them will be harder since bigger amps will peak them...) or a single 18" Fi BTL which has a bit more RMS... (another reason I love Fi Audio is the addons you'll see what I mean) whatever you decide will depend on the size of your box... I recommend about 6cubes (cube feet) for the 18" and 3.5cu ft per 15" so 7cu ft or so for the two 15" if you can fit the two 15" go that route... or buy the single 18" and buy another one later on if you can fit it, whatever you decide... ultimatly the two 15's will be louder and more affordable.

Subwoofer Choices:

2x Fi BT 15" Subwoofers -2x 1000W RMS = 2000RMS two 1000RMS subs require 2000RMS @ 1ohm DVC
1x Fi BTL 18" Subwoofer - 1 x 2000RMS = 2000RMS single 2000RMS subwoofer @ 1ohm DVC

Remember the addons I was talking about Fi allows you to customize your sub in a curtain way on the right hand side on their site:

https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraud...iew.shopscript

Go there and choose BTL or BL w/e one you decide and on the right side choose dual 1 ohm for 1 ohm impedence load... if you get the single 18" choose a dual 2 ohm since when you wire it in series it will take a 1 ohm load. On the addons below that add these for maximum bass:

Hyper Pole - YES (adds stability to coil)
Cooling - YES (adds cooling for the coil)
Flatwind - YES (adds more SPL or RMS/PEAK power enabling extra 200-400RMS)
Choose Daily not SPL as you dont want to overwhelm your subs with daily usage

for the BL choose the same or the BTL eigther one choose the same stuff...
these subwoofer in the right enclosure in the right vehicle with the right setup has net about 136-142dB which is competition level, not only will your eyes roll to the back of your head but anyone within 10 feet of your car will feel the bass shake their pants etc. Go with these, or some of the others I listed DONT go with KICKER/JLAUDIO even though they are incredible brands.... they are overpriced in the end. A single SSD 15" Fi is louder than a CVX and nominally "worse." the BTL and BT are just lightyears ahead of all the companies in terms of quality and loudness.

Total : $600.00USD including shipping
-----
Most amplifier companies will not display a TRUE RMS (remember we always look at RMS because PEAK power is bad, that just means when your equipment will fry/blow STAY FAR AWAY FROM PEAK... You'll want an amp that is MONO and is a D BLOCK (D block is mostly for subwoofers and high outputs and MONO is just a single channel which means more concentrated power.) You'll want an amp that can handle 1/2OHM impedence or just 1 ohm since that's what you'll be running since we want to get as close to 0 ohm as possible... You might also want to take this time to invest in some really good 2000WATT wiring with 0/1 gauge wiring (this stuff gets expensive) you can buy RCA/speaker wire/power wire in a kit for probably $80 give or take this is all you will need VIA wiring. I also wouldnt recommend any system over 2000RMS since by that time you will need a better altenator and another battery, 2000RMS is the safe zone for stock car electrical systems since thats what I run with semi-bad light flickers, but forget all of that...

Good amp brands consist of: JBL , Hifonics , Kicker , Alpine , Power Acoustik , Lanzar Optidrive.

Once against JBL , Kicker and Alpine are far too expensive so we're going to go with power acoustik for this one... Power acoustik are cheaper brand if you find that too expensive.. Remember how I told you about amps not putting out true RMS well these are the bands that often do... Most amps will run 2 or 3 impedences usually: 2ohm / 4 ohm and 1 ohm) Since we're running 1 OHM you want to find an amp that does 1 OHM output RMS @ 2000 watts so it will look like that 2000W RMS x 1 OHM LOAD.

Amplifiers:

1x 2000RMS @ 1 OHM Power Acoustik BAMF-4000/1D that means its peak rating is 4000W MONO D BLOCK notice 4000W is PEAK? dont touch that lol, go RMS which is 2000 in this case its actually 2200RMS which gives you a little head room.

http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...id/0/SFV/30046

Total: 209.95USD including shipping

You'll want a Vented BOX for optimum loudness, sealed for sound quality so if you care about sound quality more than dB's get the sealed, but I recommned vented always... you can get a dual vented (dual as in two 15" slots) for about $50 on ebay... the 18" vented you'll have to build or search around they are hard to find..... eigther way you're looking at $50 for the box and $50-70 for the wiring kit.. So the TOTAL after EVERYTHING is said and done:

Subwoofers: 2x 15" BL Fi 1000RMS ea. 1x 18" BL Fi 2000RMS ea.
Amplifier: 2200 x 1 OHM RMS Power Acoustik BAMF 4000/1D
Head Unit: Alpine CDA-9887 or Alpine 9512 (model sp?)
Wiring Kit: Any Scosche etc. wiring kit at bestbuy etc. 0-4guage recommended 2000wat
Subwoofer Enclosure: dual 15" vented enclosure or single 18" vented

TOTAL COST: 1109.00USD including shipping all items have 2 Year + warrantys

DONT BELIEVE ME?!?!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7TiBvlPSfvU

Yeah look at that windshield thats what ONLY 140+ dB's look like yep =) go with my build I provided you won't be upset.

Another thing. In that video at the bottom, the bass totally blocked out the song. Will I still be able to adjust it so I can hear the song and still feel the bass?
J Dubb is offline  
post #18 of 30 Old 12-02-2009, 09:30 PM
Senior Member
 
memphis87's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 307
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
you do know youtube videos do not have the best sound quality....that van does over 150db ....not 140db....with a spending limit of $1000 youll be lucky to get over 140db.....its hard to capture bass on a camera with a mic the size of a pin head....your speakers will be fine, and youll still be able to hear the words

Northern Illinois University 2010
memphis87 is offline  
post #19 of 30 Old 12-02-2009, 09:51 PM - Thread Starter
Newbie
 
J Dubb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Ok cool, thanks Memphis. Does that list look good?
J Dubb is offline  
post #20 of 30 Old 12-02-2009, 09:56 PM
Senior Member
 
memphis87's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 307
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Personally no....the biggest concern for me is the amp....power acoustic is not the greatest ...highly overrated....and gives a dirty signal. I would invest in a better amp.....even hifonics is a good choice nowadays. for subs i would not suggest the Fi Bls.
They take way more power than a 1000watts, closer to 2000watts.....so i would look into the Fi SSD's or the Fi Q's....youll save some money their to allowing you to spend more money on the amp......the amp i the most key part to a system so no slouching their

Northern Illinois University 2010
memphis87 is offline  
post #21 of 30 Old 12-02-2009, 10:02 PM
Senior Member
 
memphis87's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 307
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
one more thing.......it took me over 4 years to get up to a 2000+rms system.....its not you average first system....when you cross over 1500watts .....your in mad bass audio world. And thats when things getting really expensive....most cars can not support systems over 1000rms without extra batteries/ upgraded alts....Suvs sit at around 1000-1200 before you start putting to MUCH stress on the car....and thats when batts and alts. are needed. i advise you to put a lot of time into to this decision as it does require $$$.....money you may not know your going to spend which could put your project on hold

Northern Illinois University 2010
memphis87 is offline  
post #22 of 30 Old 12-02-2009, 11:31 PM
Member
 
jbinn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 59
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I know you can't capture bass on camera, but if you look at the vibration you can tell that sub setup is rocking the hell outta that car space... thats what i was saying, most small time setups dont hit 140dB, 140dB is a BIG deal... I would be happy to hit that at $1000 spending limit...

As far as eBAY there is nothing wrong with that persons factory warranty, it may not be from alpine themselves but the money you save you could just buy a new one... but thats not the point, the point is you save $100's of dollars not having to buy from alpine or a store due to stocking fee's etc, you're buying from the factory, the name of the seller is irrelavent since the seller is the factory.

Take note Topic Creator, your system will sound much better than that video due to cameras not picking up bass notes well, I was just showing you it so you could get an idea of what yours will end up like.

I agree with memphis but I also disagree, there is NOTHING wrong with Power Acoustik, for the price you won't find any better... reqaurdless if these subs can exceed their RMS is irrelavent since he will be running them at RMS, thats the point. As far as stressing cars, I've seen many people including myself run 1500RMS through a car and be fine... I think the maximum for a car is 1500-2000RMS but 2000RMS is really really pushing it... , if he gets a capacitor and a battery or upgrades his altenator and does the big 3 he will be fine...

If he had an SUV 2000RMS would be the max I would suggest as well... I don't think the BL's are a bad choice... I think him cheaping out for SSD's or Q's would be a big mestake... That amp will run fine, and if he really wants to put another $100 into an amp he can easily afford the hifonics 1800RMS (which will underpower the 15's but only by about 400RMS tops which isn't anything vital.) Honestly, stick with the build I sent you...

The sub box is important but if you don't know how to build don't bother... Also you want about 6-8 cubic ft box for 2 15's with that power. Honestly, don't cheap out on the amp no.... but I also wouldnt cheap out on the subs. If you want to save time and money sure go with two Q's and get a better amp as suggested, but honestly the BL route seems more fit for SPL.
jbinn is offline  
post #23 of 30 Old 12-02-2009, 11:40 PM
Member
 
jbinn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 59
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by J Dubb View Post

Thanks alot! I may need your help on finding the right wiring kit for my Focus and how to find out my Focus' trunk space. But other than that, here's my list of what I'll get and you tell me how you think it will work out:

Head Unit

JVC Arsenal KD-A605

$150

Link: http://signature.crutchfield.com/App...ssi=0&skipvs=T


Subs

BL15 (x2)

$588

Link: You know where that's located.


Amp

Power Acoustik BAMF4000/1D 4000W

$209.95

Link: Again, you know.


Enclosure

Dual 15" Vented Enclosure

$69.95

Link: http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...id/0/SFV/30046


Wiring Kit

None, until I find one that works for my 2001 Ford Focus.



TOTAL: $1,017.90 + Whatever the price will be for the Wiring Kit.


Thanks again, get back to me asap if you can


That setup will really really pound... If you decide you want to downgrade to the Q's which have the SAME RMS as the BL's which I honestly don't think is a bad idea go with a better amp... I honestly like Power Acoustik but some don't I'll recommend this setup to you after revision:

2x 15" Fi Q's 1000RMS dual 2 OHM (you want both to be 2 ohm DVC so we can input 1 OHM)

that JVC is fine...

This amp:

http://cgi.ebay.com/HIFONICS-BRUTUS-...ht_3555wt_1165


So in the end I think your setup should actually be:

2 x 15" Fi Q 2x 1000RMS @ 1OHM (2x 2 OHM DVC subs) with all addons
1 x Hifonics Brutus 1900RMS @ 1 OHM / 3000PEAK
1 x JVC Arsenal
1 x Wiring Kit @ 0/1 Gauge 2000WATTS
1 x Dual Slotted 15" Vented Enclosure

You really can't do much better than that. don't get SSD's for your build though, not with $1000 to play with... thats just too low on the system totem.

Total Price: 1,075
jbinn is offline  
post #24 of 30 Old 12-02-2009, 11:45 PM
Member
 
jbinn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 59
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
BTW this box is 5" in cubes which is perfect for two Q's or BL's

http://cgi.ebay.com/DUAL-15-INCH-SUB...ht_3073wt_1165
jbinn is offline  
post #25 of 30 Old 12-03-2009, 07:44 AM - Thread Starter
Newbie
 
J Dubb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Thanks Jbinn and Memphis.

Jbinn, what is SPL? Isn't that for "competition?" I would be using them daily.
J Dubb is offline  
post #26 of 30 Old 12-03-2009, 09:08 AM
Senior Member
 
memphis87's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 307
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Im sorry J dubb, but Jbinn has no idea what hes talking about. Power acoustic is garbage....the 5500 has fuse ratings of 150, meaning it will not put out more than 1600-1700rms.....and also Jbinn, i suggested not getting the BL's becuase they dont start reallly moving unless your able to give more than 1000rms to them. As for cars handling up to 2000watts is ridiculous.....cars have 60-100 amp alts......way to small to power 2000rms even after the big 3.....sure it will work but dont expect to have an alternator after long. And when you mentioned capacitors i giggled, because honestly capacitors are a joke, there just a band-aid for a much bigger problem and put more strain on the Alternator....i dont see how you can give advice when your the one asking advice on your own setup.....obv. you know nothing about Fi, and what each line can do...and what it takes to get their subs goin.......and you most certainly dont run PA on Fi.....J Dubb i advice you to become a member of steve meades forums or ROE.com, you will get more answers like mine then you will of Jbinns

Northern Illinois University 2010
memphis87 is offline  
post #27 of 30 Old 12-03-2009, 10:35 AM
Advanced Member
 
mlkmgr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Meskwaki Nation
Posts: 565
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by memphis87 View Post

Im sorry J dubb, but Jbinn has no idea what hes talking about. Power acoustic is garbage....the 5500 has fuse ratings of 150, meaning it will not put out more than 1600-1700rms.....and also Jbinn, i suggested not getting the BL's becuase they dont start reallly moving unless your able to give more than 1000rms to them. As for cars handling up to 2000watts is ridiculous.....cars have 60-100 amp alts......way to small to power 2000rms even after the big 3.....sure it will work but dont expect to have an alternator after long. And when you mentioned capacitors i giggled, because honestly capacitors are a joke, there just a band-aid for a much bigger problem and put more strain on the Alternator....i dont see how you can give advice when your the one asking advice on your own setup.....obv. you know nothing about Fi, and what each line can do...and what it takes to get their subs goin.......and you most certainly dont run PA on Fi.....J Dubb i advice you to become a member of steve meades forums or ROE.com, you will get more answers like mine then you will of Jbinns


could not have said it any better. i almost posted this yesterday but thought i would wait and see what other magnificent (mis)information jbinn could offer. memphis knows his **** and while i can offer some advice, i will NOT post bad advice in hoping to sound like i know something.

J DUBB,
take memphis's advice and seek out a dedicated car audio forum. while their are some knowledgable individuals here, it is primarily a home theater forum. i believe you will be better served in another location.
mlkmgr is offline  
post #28 of 30 Old 12-03-2009, 11:47 AM
Member
 
jbinn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 59
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
LOL im a noobie?? ok... sure I am... thats why I just took about 30 minutes to type that out to help this kid and TBH you kids have no idea... He wants bass with clarity that setup I provided it perfect... Ive been running systems for a long time I used to have two 13" JLW6 on a Kicker 1200 so don't tell me... and my car ran it fine for 2 years.... The only reason I suggested Fi in the first place was they were affordable for how much they put out.... The only reason I recommended power acoustik is because they hit proper RMS and honestly I've owned their amps and had NO problems at all... the BAMF is their best line.

Listen dude, you do what you want lol, the reason I ask about my own setup is honestly I'm new to Fi but I've heard great things... aside from that im anything but new, I've been out of the loop for awhile after selling my last setup, so yeah I guess I have a few questions myself...
jbinn is offline  
post #29 of 30 Old 12-03-2009, 02:11 PM - Thread Starter
Newbie
 
J Dubb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Ok I'll check out those forums, thank you. Jbinn I appreciate your help too. Keep it mind I have an '01 Ford Focus. Would your setup completely ruin my car? Like I want bass that will vibrate and what not, but not ruin my car. It's a small car, but I measured the trunk and a dual 15" Vented Sub Box will fit. But would 2 15"s be too much for a small Focus?
J Dubb is offline  
post #30 of 30 Old 12-03-2009, 05:05 PM
Senior Member
 
memphis87's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 307
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
well personally 2 10"s would hit in your car......but i feel you might want a little more. ill need a little back round info first.....what kind of music do you listen to?....do you have any experience with cars with stereos before. Im just tryin to get a general idea of what might be best for you

Northern Illinois University 2010
memphis87 is offline  
Reply Car Audio, Video, and Nav

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off