Building cust. box for Avalon.. - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 20 Old 02-08-2010, 05:35 PM - Thread Starter
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I want to ask those of you with experience to share your ideas with me.

I am installing 2 12" L7's in my 1999 Toyota Avalon, and I want to make my box as close to spec. as possible.

My question is, should I build the biggest box I can that I can still pull out?

OR, is it possible/better to build a "Wall" that will have the two subs mounted in it and basically use the trunk and back of the back seats in place of the other walls of a sub box?

Any other Ideas are welcome, Thanks guys!
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post #2 of 20 Old 02-08-2010, 05:53 PM
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if u cant fit the recommended size, put them in the biggest u can fit and just give them more power.
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post #3 of 20 Old 02-08-2010, 08:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Would anyone happen to know a formula to figure out what the biggest size your trunks opening can swallow? -hope that makes sense..
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post #4 of 20 Old 02-11-2010, 01:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Nobody?
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post #5 of 20 Old 02-11-2010, 03:55 PM
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mock up a fake box out of carboard cutouts

Northern Illinois University 2010
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post #6 of 20 Old 02-11-2010, 04:30 PM - Thread Starter
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That's a great idea. Thanks Memphis.
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post #7 of 20 Old 02-24-2010, 07:49 AM
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how is the box coming?

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post #8 of 20 Old 02-26-2010, 02:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Well it hasn't been constant good weather here, I want it to be pretty dry outside so I can be working out on the driveway and have some sun to help dry things....

The dimensions of the box I was going to build is 36x15x15... I think that it will give me a pretty good Volume for a good tone for two 12" L7's...

Whatcha think?

PS: It will be sealed...
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post #9 of 20 Old 03-01-2010, 11:41 AM
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About 3.5 cubic foot after woof displacement. Surely big enough for a sealed. Leave it a common chamber. If it is not loud or low enough for you, consider porting it. I would use a 6"ID pvc pipe. Most likely do it on the side. Plenty of port area. I will look into good port tuning for those subs. let me know if you are interested.

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post #10 of 20 Old 03-01-2010, 06:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks cubdenno,

By common chamber you mean do NOT seperate the two air spaces for each, correct?

If so, that was the plan from the get!

And about porting... I wouldn't know the first thing about the tuning of a box with a port....

Do you feel a ported box is BETTER than a sealed?

What do you see as the pros and cons?

And thanks a LOT for your ideas!

-Chris
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post #11 of 20 Old 03-02-2010, 02:59 PM
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Yes, common chamber means no divider.

While some feel that sealed is the way to go because it is "faster", there is no difference when considering hertz. 40 cycles is 40 cycles. I like ported because of the increased efficiency of the design. They can be boomy. Usually attributed to porting high. I tend to cross my subs fairly low (63 hertz, and SQ is 50). My port is adjustable 45 hertz for fun and 25 for sq in my ported enclosure. I am currently running a single reflex bandpass that plays in car flat 30-70 hertz.
Sorry enough about me.
Ported. Also these are generalizations. wrong design and bad results can happen
Pros, like I said, more efficient produces more volume with same power verses a sealed.
Can actually play lower frequencies louder than sealed but is totally dependant on design

Cons: more difficult to build
takes up more space.

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post #12 of 20 Old 03-03-2010, 08:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Hmm..

I think I'd have the room for a ported.. I just would need some instructions on how to tune it right?
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post #13 of 20 Old 03-04-2010, 01:59 PM
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Keeping the box size you posted I believe you have room. Tuning the port is actual science with that math and such. Again, we are in a car so no reason to worry as the car will be doing a lot of the work for you. As an added bonus, you have a trunk, while not as bass friendly as a hatchback it does allow you to actually use a slightly smaller port. Smaller ports can cause chuffing. All chuffing is, is noise created by the air moving fast inside the port. Using aeroports can help but really a slot port 1 1/2 inches in width by 13.5 high by XXX length based on tuning frequency, will be fine. any noise should not be audible inside the passenger cabin. And if you round any edges that would help as well. I will get you some lengths tonight when I get home from work.

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post #14 of 20 Old 03-04-2010, 02:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Wow man,

Thanks a lot for all of you help! I can't thank you enough.

-Chris
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post #15 of 20 Old 03-04-2010, 06:13 PM
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tuning 40ish is 7"long. just a pretty good guess. the volume takes into account woofers, port, any bracing etc...

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post #16 of 20 Old 03-05-2010, 09:43 AM - Thread Starter
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So what does that translate to exactly, like I will need a 7" diameter port hole?

-Chris
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post #17 of 20 Old 03-05-2010, 11:00 AM
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You have seen a slot ported box right? rather than a round hole like using pvc. Google slot porting or look on crutchfield etc...

Looking at your box dimensions, I took 36 wide by 15 tall by 15 deep as your outside dimensions.

So figuring a 1 1/2" wide port by 7 inches long by 13.5 inches high.

For you other box builders, yes this is a small port. Again, in a trunk, so chuffing should not be an issue and since the port volume has to be subtracted from gross box volume, this was easier and it kept port volume down.

Also, on a side note, build the box leaving the port, unsecured, You could play with differing port lengths to see what different tuning frequencies will do. and sound like. Just an idea.

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post #18 of 20 Old 03-05-2010, 12:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks a ton cubdenno,

It all makes sense to me now. Thanks for the PM and I will not hesitate when in need.

I will report back.. Hopefully this weekend the rain will be brief.

-Chris
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post #19 of 20 Old 03-06-2010, 10:12 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cubdenno View Post

Yes, common chamber means no divider.

While some feel that sealed is the way to go because it is "faster", there is no difference when considering laser teeth whitening hertz. 40 cycles is 40 cycles. I like ported because of the increased efficiency of the design. They can be boomy. Usually attributed to porting high. I tend to cross my subs fairly low (63 hertz, and SQ is 50). My port is adjustable 45 hertz for fun and 25 for sq in my ported enclosure. I am currently running a single reflex bandpass that plays in car flat 30-70 hertz.
Sorry enough about me.
Ported. Also these are generalizations. wrong design and bad results can happen
Pros, like I said, more efficient produces more volume with same power verses a sealed.
Can actually play lower frequencies louder than sealed but is totally dependant on design

Cons: more difficult to build
takes up more space.

Hmmm you just gave me a lot to think about. Anything good seems to take up a lot of space.
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post #20 of 20 Old 03-10-2010, 04:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Well I got it all built and running now, I want to thank all you guys for your help.

I have tuned it a little but am not sure of specifics... anyone familiar with auidiopipe amps that would like to give me some help?

Again, I am working with audiopipe's 18001d with 2 Kicker L7's wired @ 2ohms running @ 1100rms.

My box is ported with the given specs above...

Thanks everyone a ton,

-Chris
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