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post #91 of 304 Old 04-22-2010, 10:08 PM - Thread Starter
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post #92 of 304 Old 04-22-2010, 11:14 PM - Thread Starter
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I've had a bunch of those drill bit extentions all over in my way, now that Ive needed one I cant find any of them. I have at least 5 different tool stashes and boxes..kept digging, none to be found. So I ran to walmart and bought one so I can actually tighten the amps down... at first glance these pics look the same, but they look way better now that they're not just hanging



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post #93 of 304 Old 04-23-2010, 03:54 PM - Thread Starter
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post #94 of 304 Old 04-23-2010, 06:36 PM - Thread Starter
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pardon my brain fart: shouldn't a toggle switch have 2 contacts? positive and negative or in and out? I'm using toggle switches for the foot brake, parking brake, tweet amp remote, mid woof amp remote, midbass amp remote, and sub amp remotes. The switches have 3: positive, negative, and accessory. Brain fart or what? lol wow.

So for my foot brake a hot wire into switch, then on the out the deck wire...so when I switch ON it will think I am pressing my foot brake.

Hot wire in, parking brake wire on deck out so it thinks my parking brake is depressed.

The other 4 switches, remote wire from deck split into 4, then run wires to the remotes on amps. So there is my second question: how many amps can the HU remote wire support? I have 4 subwoofer amps and three 4-channels. 7 amps.

Later, I'm gonna have to worry about RCA's. Will I need an RCA distro block for the 4 subwoofer amps?
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post #95 of 304 Old 04-23-2010, 08:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kryptonitewhite View Post

pardon my brain fart: shouldn't a toggle switch have 2 contacts? positive and negative or in and out? I'm using toggle switches for the foot brake, parking brake, tweet amp remote, mid woof amp remote, midbass amp remote, and sub amp remotes. The switches have 3: positive, negative, and accessory. Brain fart or what? lol wow.

So for my foot brake a hot wire into switch, then on the out the deck wire...so when I switch ON it will think I am pressing my foot brake.

Hot wire in, parking brake wire on deck out so it thinks my parking brake is depressed.

The other 4 switches, remote wire from deck split into 4, then run wires to the remotes on amps. So there is my second question: how many amps can the HU remote wire support? I have 4 subwoofer amps and three 4-channels. 7 amps.

Later, I'm gonna have to worry about RCA's. Will I need an RCA distro block for the 4 subwoofer amps?

http://www.hifonics.com/Hifonics_Maxxlink.html

this will help

as for toggle switch, it depends on what type. single pole single throw, double pole double throw and a whole bunch other types.

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post #96 of 304 Old 04-24-2010, 04:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kryptonitewhite View Post

Later, I'm gonna have to worry about RCA's. Will I need an RCA distro block for the 4 subwoofer amps?

Not absolutely necessary.... but it would be better with a distro block.

Each time you divide the signal you will lose a bit of power. A distro block with preamp will keep the signal at its peak level on all 4 outputs.
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post #97 of 304 Old 04-24-2010, 01:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cubdenno View Post

http://www.hifonics.com/Hifonics_Maxxlink.html

this will help

as for toggle switch, it depends on what type. single pole single throw, double pole double throw and a whole bunch other types.

Built-in 6.5Hz set-up test tone that should be fun

the HPF isn't defeatable though... at least it gos down to 15Hz though
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post #98 of 304 Old 04-24-2010, 01:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbarney View Post

Not absolutely necessary.... but it would be better with a distro block.

Each time you divide the signal you will lose a bit of power. A distro block with preamp will keep the signal at its peak level on all 4 outputs.

I did have an Audiocontrol 6XS which had a built in line driver, so I wasn't worried, but now I have the Alpine PXA-H701. That won't boost signal, will it?
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post #99 of 304 Old 04-24-2010, 01:30 PM - Thread Starter
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My friend just grounded the parking brake to the ground for the HU. But I tested my wire and it has nothing, which means it wants power input, no?

the manual has a diagram showing the foot brake being spliced on the positive side after the switch before the lamp. The parking brake on the positive side after the lamp but before the switch. it's confusing!


This is getting more complicated than I think it should be. The manual shows the yellow black wire sliced into the foot brake and the yellow blue spliced into the parking break. Are they both grounds? Are they both looking for power input? 1 ground and the other power input? The diagram is confusing in the maual. Google search yields:

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...a-w505-37.html

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/head-u...ke-bypass.html

Ideas?
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post #100 of 304 Old 04-24-2010, 01:45 PM - Thread Starter
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The resin vapors were getting to me yesterday, the toggle switches have a lights DUH!
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post #101 of 304 Old 04-24-2010, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kryptonitewhite View Post

I did have an Audiocontrol 6XS which had a built in line driver, so I wasn't worried, but now I have the Alpine PXA-H701. That won't boost signal, will it?

If the Alpine only has one sub output and you're adding multiple sub amps then to get peak performance you will need an amplified distro box. That being said however, the amps you're using are pretty good quality and should have a gain boost dial on the input. This will serve just as well. Just boost the input gain a little on each amp.

Some HU's need a ground on the parking wire... some need it to be hot. Mine (JVC) needed a hot (+12v) so I simply connected it to the 12v accessory line.

It's not hard to test... give it a ground and see if it works... if not then give it 12 volts. You won't damage it either way since it is diode protected.
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post #102 of 304 Old 04-24-2010, 04:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bigbarney View Post

If the Alpine only has one sub output and you're adding multiple sub amps then to get peak performance you will need an amplified distro box. That being said however, the amps you're using are pretty good quality and should have a gain boost dial on the input. This will serve just as well. Just boost the input gain a little on each amp.

Some HU's need a ground on the parking wire... some need it to be hot. Mine (JVC) needed a hot (+12v) so I simply connected it to the 12v accessory line.

It's not hard to test... give it a ground and see if it works... if not then give it 12 volts. You won't damage it either way since it is diode protected.

Kick ass, thanks BigB. Thing is, I have 2 wires, and a retarded description of what to do.

" To watch a video source:

1. push the foot brake to bring your vehicle to a complete stop at a safe location. Engage parking brake.

2. Keep pushing the foot brake and release the parking brake once then engage it again.

3. While the parking brake is being engaged the second time, release the foot brake. "

yay.
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post #103 of 304 Old 04-24-2010, 04:37 PM
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" To watch a video source:

1. push the foot brake to bring your vehicle to a complete stop at a safe location. Engage parking brake.

2. Keep pushing the foot brake and release the parking brake once then engage it again.

3. While the parking brake is being engaged the second time, release the foot brake. "

Are you friggin serious?!?

It looks like they're trying to fix it so that you can't bypass the system. I would return the HU with a nasty note attached to it saying..... F YOU!

Short of that... you will have to use switches and flick them in the proper order when you want to watch a video.
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post #104 of 304 Old 04-24-2010, 05:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bigbarney View Post

Are you friggin serious?!?

It looks like they're trying to fix it so that you can't bypass the system. I would return the HU with a nasty note attached to it saying..... F YOU!

Short of that... you will have to use switches and flick them in the proper order when you want to watch a video.

hahaha yes, thats what Ive figured since I looked at the manual... i'll have to flip the foot break, flip the park brake, unflip the park break, reflip it while unflipping the foot brake. and flip the government and alpine

SO... if I use my DMM and test both wires and both are dead, then they both want power, right? However... what if I give the foot brake power, then the park brake will GIVE power LOL...thi is so fun

NOOOOOT
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post #105 of 304 Old 04-24-2010, 07:06 PM
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I put in a simple toggle on the boy's head unit. He has it off (open circuit) when he wants to watch movie, he flips toggle (circuit is now grounded.) I just hooke wire from head unit to toggle switch and toggle switch to ground wire. The head unit knows whether the line is grounded or not so that's why we have a toggle switch.

As for the H701, I used the center and the Sub out for signal to sub amp. You should know you can configure the center output to subwoofer duties.

That said. The H701 has 4 volt outputs.

You could get two line drivers and some Y connectors. 2 Y connectors off the sub and center out of the H701. This gives you 2pr of outputs

Connect each Y pair to one line driver.

get 4 more y connectors and hook 2 Y's to each output on the line drivers. This gives 4 separate pairs of connections to hook rca's off of. Run each pair of rca's to an amp.

Hopefully you get what I am saying.

Cheap line driver
http://www.millionbuy.com/paupld2.html

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post #106 of 304 Old 04-24-2010, 07:26 PM
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there is a video bypass module that hook up in line with the wiring to the parking brake and goes to ground, search for "PAC TR-7". i just picked one up for an Alpine touch screen navi install for a customer.

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post #107 of 304 Old 04-24-2010, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by s_carter View Post

there is a video bypass module that hook up in line with the wiring to the parking brake and goes to ground, search for "PAC TR-7". i just picked one up for an Alpine touch screen navi install for a customer.

Geeez.... and I was flipping back and forth trying to decide on the JVC or the Alpine. I ended up with the JVC (better bang for the buck). It looks like I made the right decision. Who needs yet another bypass module!?!
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post #108 of 304 Old 04-24-2010, 08:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cubdenno View Post

I put in a simple toggle on the boy's head unit. He has it off (open circuit) when he wants to watch movie, he flips toggle (circuit is now grounded.) I just hooke wire from head unit to toggle switch and toggle switch to ground wire. The head unit knows whether the line is grounded or not so that's why we have a toggle switch.

As for the H701, I used the center and the Sub out for signal to sub amp. You should know you can configure the center output to subwoofer duties.

That said. The H701 has 4 volt outputs.

You could get two line drivers and some Y connectors. 2 Y connectors off the sub and center out of the H701. This gives you 2pr of outputs

Connect each Y pair to one line driver.

get 4 more y connectors and hook 2 Y's to each output on the line drivers. This gives 4 separate pairs of connections to hook rca's off of. Run each pair of rca's to an amp.

Hopefully you get what I am saying.

Cheap line driver
http://www.millionbuy.com/paupld2.html

since the PXA has 4V outs, won't that be plenty to split to 4 monoblocks?
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post #109 of 304 Old 04-24-2010, 08:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by s_carter View Post

there is a video bypass module that hook up in line with the wiring to the parking brake and goes to ground, search for "PAC TR-7". i just picked one up for an Alpine touch screen navi install for a customer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbarney View Post

Geeez.... and I was flipping back and forth trying to decide on the JVC or the Alpine. I ended up with the JVC (better bang for the buck). It looks like I made the right decision. Who needs yet another bypass module!?!



s-carter... are you lil' wayne?

hehe jk

anyway, wont toggle switches do the same thing??
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post #110 of 304 Old 04-24-2010, 08:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Alright I have 6 light up toggle swtiches. 1 for the super tweets, 1 for mid rangers, 1 for mid woofers, and 1 for subwoofers... so I can turn on any combination of them I want. Then I have 2 more for the video on the DVD player, 1 for foot pedal and 1 for parking brake.











ripped the wire from the roof and burried in the dash







































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post #111 of 304 Old 04-24-2010, 08:22 PM
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yes, switches will do the same thing, but the module is pre-programmed to pulse the connection, so its fully automatic. install it and forget it, never have to touch any switches. just an option out there for ya. what drivers did you get for those huge boxes in your house anyway, i can't remember. i was just wondering how you liken them. i just picked up an ssd18 and it fuggen pounds the hell out of my house with only like 400-500 watts.

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post #112 of 304 Old 04-24-2010, 10:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s_carter View Post

yes, switches will do the same thing, but the module is pre-programmed to pulse the connection, so its fully automatic. install it and forget it, never have to touch any switches. just an option out there for ya. what drivers did you get for those huge boxes in your house anyway, i can't remember. i was just wondering how you liken them. i just picked up an ssd18 and it fuggen pounds the hell out of my house with only like 400-500 watts.

IB3's... and with 2 Walmart Regent HT391 amps, no more than 150 watts total, mine was pretty impressive too!
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post #113 of 304 Old 04-24-2010, 10:33 PM - Thread Starter
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I refuse to use electrical tape. In my 15 years of extensive electrical work, I never ever use electrical tape. I ALWAYS use duct tape and that will never change. BTW I meant to comment that after twisting the wires together, I then twisted them into a bunch, a tight ball, as I always do..but the pics of the ball were blurry.

While driving around, I turned the 4 remote toggles on to see how the lights held up with current draw. They got warm! WTF!Just 4 of the lights, as the other 2 need to be left off after doing the sequence. I'm worried now what'll happen when there's 7 amps hooked to them too.

Here it is: Avatar drivin in the car

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y3NLz6fG1lk
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post #114 of 304 Old 04-24-2010, 11:25 PM - Thread Starter
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heres a vid of the toggle switch rig and doing the sequence to get video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=15ktGpYKpQQ
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post #115 of 304 Old 04-25-2010, 01:33 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm so pissed right now. years ago I was getting 50 foot rolls of 14 gauge speaker wire from walmart. I'm tired of Best Buy **** talking walmart, thinking they know more and have better ****. They DONT know **** at best buy even with special training. So best buy has always carried Monster Cable, 18 times the cost for the name and pretty color, and, generally smaller gauge.

Well walmart stopped selling it years ago. They do monster cable now too. I had rewards card points about to expire at best buy fro purchases made YEARS ago. I had to use them. So I went and got a 100 foot spool for $50. Today I got ready to start running wire and realized... it's 16 gauge! I'm running 14,000 watts RMS. I'm not using 16 gauge. I have 1 50 foot spool of the old walmart 14 gauge that I have saved for this project for YEARS. I have some scrap around too that I used for my old HT way back when I got all this.

So I have a 100 foot spool of 16 gauge bought with a rewards card cupon. Keep it and install with this? Hope I have enough old "cheap" walmart that is just as good if not better?

Sorry if you work at best buy. I've gotten in fights with employees on forums before. Dont take it personally. I have yet to meet a single best buy employee that knows what thiele small paramteres are, winisd, or anything else that means anything..after all their "training". Too expensive for the same **** everyone else sells.

END RANT
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post #116 of 304 Old 04-25-2010, 02:09 PM - Thread Starter
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alright, i ran to walmart, they have 50 foot spools of 14 gauge scosche for $13 and 50 foot of 12 gauge for $18. its even pretty blue and silver. I think i have enough old yellow to do all this, but if not I can go get more at walmart. Ill take my 16 gauge bb back and get some movies if they let me. gonna go install some wire.
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post #117 of 304 Old 04-25-2010, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kryptonitewhite View Post

I'm so pissed right now. years ago I was getting 50 foot rolls of 14 gauge speaker wire from walmart. I'm tired of Best Buy **** talking walmart, thinking they know more and have better ****. They DONT know **** at best buy even with special training. So best buy has always carried Monster Cable, 18 times the cost for the name and pretty color, and, generally smaller gauge.

Well walmart stopped selling it years ago. They do monster cable now too. I had rewards card points about to expire at best buy fro purchases made YEARS ago. I had to use them. So I went and got a 100 foot spool for $50. Today I got ready to start running wire and realized... it's 16 gauge! I'm running 14,000 watts RMS. I'm not using 16 gauge. I have 1 50 foot spool of the old walmart 14 gauge that I have saved for this project for YEARS. I have some scrap around too that I used for my old HT way back when I got all this.

So I have a 100 foot spool of 16 gauge bought with a rewards card cupon. Keep it and install with this? Hope I have enough old "cheap" walmart that is just as good if not better?

Sorry if you work at best buy. I've gotten in fights with employees on forums before. Dont take it personally. I have yet to meet a single best buy employee that knows what thiele small paramteres are, winisd, or anything else that means anything..after all their "training". Too expensive for the same **** everyone else sells.

END RANT

Pretty sure 16 gauge is going to work for most of your set up. Maybe not the subs especially on a long run. It all just depends on the length of wire run that will determine resistance and voltage drop.

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post #118 of 304 Old 04-25-2010, 02:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Pretty sure 16 gauge is going to work for most of your set up. Maybe not the subs especially on a long run. It all just depends on the length of wire run that will determine resistance and voltage drop.

ya but if I gotta have good 0 gauge wire for the amps, then why run tiny 16 gauge from them LOL jk jk
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post #119 of 304 Old 04-25-2010, 02:55 PM - Thread Starter
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so, this morning i woke up motivated (usually it takes me a cpl hours, shower..check email, check forums, drive somewhere...then maybe start working) I was ready to grab the wire I got at BB and start running it. I spent all day running around town like a ree-ree, wasting time. I just grabbed my scrap 14 gauge I've had for years and ran it...all of it except the 2 tweeters... I haven't even opened the roll of yellow yet. It took me all of 10 minutes.

But I'll look at it this way... now i know walmart still carries the cheapest 14 gauge in town. I might get some DVDs instead of the 16 gauge. So the running around was worth it? IDK.















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post #120 of 304 Old 04-25-2010, 05:18 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm sorry Best Buy! I was steamed, now I'm good. Whenever I shop there, I hear so much about how much better than Walmart BB is. But it's not. So I took the wire back, it' a non-return item, but she did anyway..and it was a rewards purchase, so i need to wait for the awards to be reissued. I picked up Inside Man with the cash portion of the refund, and I'll get The Incredible Hulk or something with the rewards.

I forgot to mension I ordered another roll of 50ft 0 gauge, same place, same wire.
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