My baby needs some audio help - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 12-14-2010, 11:03 AM - Thread Starter
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This is my 2011 Mustang California Special



It has the factory navigation system paired up with the shaker 500 option which is 8 inch subs in the doors.

There are 4 6x8 speakers in the car and no sub in the trunk.

My thought is to build midranges and tweeters into the 6x8 spots...4 of them..and use the 8 inch slots for some good woofers and add an auto tuba to the trunk for sub duties.

So in theory to use the doors to develop a 3 way speaker in conjunction with the 8 inch woofers in the doors and the rear deck lid 6x8's as 2 ways.

I was thinking of using a good dome tweeter with a good 4-5 inch midrange in the 6x8 holes.

I am open to some fun here, think outside the box...it's all good

I'm building it in 2 months so lets see what you guys think.

I am also debating just sending to the local audio guys who do a great job and just doing a more traditional add subs to the rear and add amp to the existing speakers, but this might be a way of letting someone flow their creative juices.

Jeff

Whether you think you can or think you can't...you're correct!
Henry Ford
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post #2 of 8 Old 12-14-2010, 08:36 PM
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Beautiful car!!

Budget?

XBL-Steelhouse1

"No one wants to fight the naked guy."
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post #3 of 8 Old 12-15-2010, 07:18 AM - Thread Starter
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$1500 in parts should be good and thank you

Jeff

Whether you think you can or think you can't...you're correct!
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post #4 of 8 Old 12-15-2010, 11:54 AM
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1500 bucks. And not sure of your listening tastes or levels. Will figure one to cover all of them. or as close as possible

Keeping the factory head unit may introduce some issues due to the inherent EQ in those systems. I suggest an off board processor. Either the Alpine H660, RF 360.2 or my favorite, the JBL MS8. it will re eq your factory outputs to flat. Allow you to run just about any configuration you want. and does Logic 7 encoding. Its pretty bad ass and has a built in amp that can drive all the speakers but the sub. It's not huge power but is adequate for most people. Will assume that you are not most people. Which explains the car.

This is going to cost you 600-800 bucks but lets set that aside for now.

Start with a power wire kit.
Wire kit: Take your pick. I love both.
This one:
http://www.millionbuy.com/phgakit1.html
Requires you to buy a fused distro block and a standard distro block for ground distro (not necessary though)

or this one:
http://www.millionbuy.com/scoe3200.html

Just have to add the ground distro block.(again can get by without the ground distro.)

Have used both. For the money hard to beat. "ALMOST" 1/0 wire but good enough.

8" midbass drivers. Hands down, Dayton RS225 great sound, low distortion, great price.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=295-356

you can get the 4 ohm driver for about 10 bucks ea. more per. I like the 8 ohm myself. More efficient. Any difference in power will be unlikely to be heard.

Front speakers: I am going to choose a solid performer rather than a "brand name" giant:
http://millionbuy.com/mbqrvf213.html

Subs: Remember, a sub is little more than an air pump in a vehicle.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-GTO1214D.html
Solid performer, good engineering a known name in high end audio. A single one of these or two in a ported enclosure will move you.

Or....:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=295-460
Get two of these in a 1.5cubic foot ported enclosure and you will be amazed. They love small ported enclosures. Often overlooked. Low distortion great output small enclosure.... Good price.

Again, subs are an often over analyzed component. The enclosure is THE MOST IMPORTANT part of a sub bass system. Followed by the midbass driver. Just about any brand in the right enclosure will make you happy.

Seriously. I swear!!


Sub amp.
Going for watts per dollar here.
http://www.audioque.com/aq/?page_id=26
Or
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...NX1.1000D.html

Both good solid amps. Audioque has a huge bandwagon. There are cheaper and more expensive amps. I am going with ones that I have seen perform reliably.

Main speakers amp:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...t-NAU-660.html
Reasoning behind this choice is it's an inexpensive 6 channel. Running the front two channels on the front speakers @50X2

bridging the rear 4 channels into 2 for the midbass 8" drivers for 100+ or so per driver.


JBL- MS-8 use paypal with a credit card for max protection. Never used THIS online store.
http://www.autotoys.com/x/product.php?productid=18093


Depending on number of subs and component changes or other deals pricing should be ~1500 bucks. Maybe pick up a couple of sheets of Raammat/dynamat/second skin etc. Seal up any large openings on the inner doorskins to help those driver's SQ. Door treatments only really require about 25% coverage to make a difference. Any more than that and the law of diminishing returns comes crashing down fast. 25% is about where you get max performance for minimum dollar. (price/performance)


here is how I would set this up.

Head unit to JBL MS-8

install MB quart component set in factory front 6X8 speaker location. Use a couple of plastic cutting boards as baffles to mount speakers (make sure at least 3/8" thick. Double up if you gotta).

Replace factory 8" subs with the Dayton's. (here is where you can save money. keep factory 8" subs and try them out first before you buy Dayton's they should work fine as a midbass driver. Use rear factory speakers. they are going to be heavily processed by the MS-8. Powered by the MS-8.

get a prefab enclosure for sub or subs. Or make your own (I like doing this but not everybody has the tools or enjoys doing it.


Or at least that's how I would plan it out over a half a lunch break.

There are sure to be other deals out there. Do some research and don't get caught up in voodoo and brand magic that follows no scientific method or breaks the laws of physics. Just a waste of money.

Your results may vary.

XBL-Steelhouse1

"No one wants to fight the naked guy."
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post #5 of 8 Old 12-15-2010, 03:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Man what a kick ass layout and explaination!

Thank you very much!

I like your thought process and yes I am keeping the navigation system in place so the processing you mention is very important.

I like the looks, doing some reading now!

Jeff

Whether you think you can or think you can't...you're correct!
Henry Ford
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post #6 of 8 Old 12-17-2010, 10:49 AM - Thread Starter
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okay here is what I've come up with:

These for the 4 6x8 locations..I'm just going to bite the extra cash and go with all 4 speakers swapped:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...t-PVI-216.html

I found the adapters here:

http://www.shipsound.com/Metra-82-56...rs_p_8346.html

Next the 8" door speakers will be:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=295-376

Unless I can get an auto tuba made to fit 12x12x35 I will go with:

http://www.supercrewsound.com/commer...=438&catId=130

with two 12" :

https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraud...iew.shopscript

JBL http://www.crunchgear.com/2010/06/15...unded-so-good/ all the way

Amps:

Fronts & rears:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...t-ONX4.80.html

Door woofers:

bridged http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...t-ONX4.60.html

Subs:

bridged http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...rt-Q4.150.html

With wiring and all I'm guessing under 2500 but the rewards I think will be outstanding.

What do you think Cubdenno?

Jeff

Whether you think you can or think you can't...you're correct!
Henry Ford
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post #7 of 8 Old 12-19-2010, 01:04 PM
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Very nice!!!

Only suggestion is using a class D amp for the subs.

Just way more efficient and less taxing on your electrical system.

The onyx 1500 watt mono will put out more power and suck less amperage doing it then the 4X150 bridged to drive those 2 subs.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...NX1.1500D.html

SQ will be the same. And the mono will have a SSF that will allow you to make sure the lifespan of those subs is high.

Class D amps have come a long way from the 90's. Sonically they ar pretty much indistinguishable from Class A/B. So especially for subs, it tends to be a no brainer because of the benefits on your electrical system.

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post #8 of 8 Old 12-21-2010, 02:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Good call thank you!

Whether you think you can or think you can't...you're correct!
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