(4) Custom Fi 18's (4) AP30001Ds 45 cubic feet 20" port @ 24Hz - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 47 Old 04-08-2011, 11:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Nirvana - Frances Farmer Will Have Her Revenge on Seattle

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mk2n-xkILGc

Korn Freak On A Leash

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qxxvCAr2qDk

Fugees Ohh La La La

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGjibPuSSag

KW, failed super hero


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post #32 of 47 Old 04-11-2011, 02:35 PM - Thread Starter
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I gain matched last night, my ears hurt again and they did yesterday... louder, less voltage drop, no stinky! I raised the 9.8V and 14.9V gains to 17.9 with the other two. Who would ahve thought if you eyeball four amps as close as possible, they could be so far off?!?! Less excursion too...from the two amps that were higher...DUH!

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post #33 of 47 Old 04-11-2011, 11:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Putting foam/duct tape/PL PRO/resin in the door jambs helped tremendousely.... brought door flex down from a couple inches to a fraction of an inch, so much that all the little kiddies talk about how weak my setup is and how I have no flex, cuz theyre uber cool and think flex is good. However, since it still moves 1/4" - 1/2" and even more sometimes, enough to see through the door jamb when it hits going down the road, it creates a ton of heat going back and forth 15 times to 200 times per second. It has burnt through the resin and some of the PRO has turned black. I hit them with more resin tonight for now.

From 30Hz down my van is MUCH quieter than 30Hz on up, despite the airspace, tuning, and 9dB gain at 22Hz.... I got 148dB below 30Hz and I am guessing I do mid 50's while cruising around.... yet I can hear the squeak and squeel of the resin against resin, caulk against caulk as my doors flex...it's terrible. I hear this inside the vehicle so I can only imagine how bad it sounds to cars next to me before they get the chance to cover their ears, give me a look, and speed off.







where all the white is is where it rubbed through the resin that coated over the red paint, through the red paint which coated the yellow caulk. I originally painted it again after it was finished but the doors would get stuck shut...paint stuck to itself... so I coated it with more resin so it would slide.








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post #34 of 47 Old 04-12-2011, 01:22 PM - Thread Starter
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I am lost. Here are the Thiele/Small params for the old Blue Print Audio 1803 subwoofers:

http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=3189

Fs = 25.0 Hz
Re = 3.6 Ohms
Qms = 7.22
Qes = 0.38
Qts = 0.35
Cms = 130.0 uM/N
Mms = 300.0 grams
Sd = 1217.0 cmsq
Vas = 279.4 liters
SPL = 92.1 dB
X-max = 45mm p-p
Power = 1000+ watts


remaining stock was bought up by audioliquidators and they rebuilt them with these specs:

http://www.hometheaterforum.com/foru...803-s-for-sale

Fs 26.3 Hz
Re 3.6 Ohms
Qms 6.06
Qes .40
Qts .37
Cms 1.1X10-4
Mms 326 g
Sd 1210 cm^2
Vas 230.1 l
Bl 22.1
Xmax 25.9mm
Rms 1000W

They originals have been regularly compared to RE Audio HCs

http://audioforum.termpro.com/topic/8/9804.html

Re 1.8 or .9 per coil
Fs 26.1
Qms 11.97
Qes .44
Qts .42
Vas 204 l
Sd 1217 cm^2
Bl 22.6
1200 W RMS


Here are the specs I was given, I think Scott gave them to the person i purchased them from:

Fs = 23.7 Hz
Re = 1.8 Ohms
Qms = 7.22
Qes = 0.38
Qts = 0.35
Cms = 130.0 uM/N
Mms = 300.0 grams
Sd = 1217.0 cmsq
Vas = 279.4 liters
SPL = 92.1 dB
X-max = 40mm
Power = 1,500+ watts


The specs directly above show a flat responce in WinISD without adding in any room/cabin gain. I assumed that the van would have roughly 6dB-12dB/octave gain.

However even with 9dB of PEQ gain at 22Hz doesnt yield a heavy bottom end or even a flat responce. With my cabin being SPL-like in nature: as small as possible and as ridgid as possible, air tight with the exception of the windows down... is my cabin gain different?

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post #35 of 47 Old 04-19-2011, 08:55 PM - Thread Starter
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rechecked the amp to make sure, then the fun began. Had to pull amp 1 out of the way, it wouldnt fit with the 2x4 that the 2nd KX850.4 mounts to, had to use the jig saw to cut the end off. Busted out the dry vac, suddenly it bogged down and started stinkin and the lights were dimming...blew the motor. Grabbed the vaccum, it wasnt sucking. Emptied it, tried again, still didnt suck. Pulled amp 1, then amp 2, then put amp 1 into amp 2's place.

Before



2x4 in the way



jig saw



lugging the vaccume in, process repeat to empty it



amp 1 removed



looks naked



now it looks really naked made me feel kinda weird



keep tryin to get them KX850.4s to make babys, none have fallen out yet



amp porn... they dont mind



the disgusting part. if you dont know what youre seeing, I wont tell you



ah, if they smoked....



amp 1, you are now amp 2.



back to audiopipe you must go. dont you **** with me and tell them any lies, you are a strait warranty issue. hear me?


KW, failed super hero


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post #36 of 47 Old 04-20-2011, 05:41 PM - Thread Starter
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cuz it's always one thing after another, cuz when I first got the van and had to replace the window motor right away and I thought to myself "now watch, the other motor will go out".. close enough the new motor went bad and I had to cut the false door apart to warranty it. Then I think, just wait...

Well the window must have separate from the track, Brandy was at work,text me, said she was putting the window up and there was a loud noise and it wont go up.

So I am doing like before and looking up old door pics to see where I need to cut in and hope to god I can fix this ****.

Keep in mind with those window flex videos, I was 1 amp down therefor running with 1 sub acting like a PR, and this wood rail now lined with auto carpet to make it even tighter supports the window...prolly why the thing broke off the rail...too much pressure up and down.





cop picture happens to be in the mix, the day I was working on the doors (before I even had the subs in or wall built) they came over cuz apparently my front stage was even too loud, this was even before I had the crossover working so i couldnt have it all that loud



I'm gonna have toi cut 2 squares where they are in the bottom to get to the screws hopefully










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post #37 of 47 Old 04-21-2011, 02:00 AM - Thread Starter
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any ideas on the best way to calculate the red distances?

bottom of door to bottom of rectangle cut out

bottom of black door arm rest to top of rectangle cut out

right side of door to left side of rectangle cut out

bottom of rectangle cut out to top of rectangle cut out

left of rectangle cut out to right of rectangle cut out

all ideas greatly appreciated!


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post #38 of 47 Old 04-21-2011, 02:57 AM - Thread Starter
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I still have the factory panels if I can use landmarks on them to trace onto the wooden panels to know where to cut. The closer I get, rather thn simply cutting an inch or two too small to be safe, the better chances I have of not having to cut more out. I plan on making a 2nd layer to glue the piece back in to repair it. So I will make my cut out drawing, make a larger board to cover it, drop some screws to set some holes, take it back off and cut out. When I am done I will glue/screw the cutout to the 2nd layer, then glue and screw them to the door. Ill router the edge to make it not as ugly, but it will still be KW style


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post #39 of 47 Old 04-21-2011, 03:58 AM - Thread Starter
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doesnt sound like the track is going up and down, but I hear the motor spin. I dunno if the gear isnt making contact, if the motor assembly came loose, or what. Prolly have to cut the plastic moulding off again that I had to to replace the motor instead.

All this was pre-anticipated and expected before i built false doors, I just couldn't think of any precautions ahead of time.














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post #40 of 47 Old 04-22-2011, 05:20 PM - Thread Starter
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This is not directed at any one person. This is 6 years in the making.

apparently since I started a new thread for the build, as it went in a completely different direction than originally planned, i need to reitterate some things for the new people and the people that only see what they want to see.

This is NOT a competition vehicle.

This is NOT an SPL vehicle. Yes I have 4 18's. Yes I have a wall. Yes I have 12000 watts for the subs, 1700 watts for the 7", 650 watts for the 4.5s, and 500 watts for the tweets. BUT I am tuned to 23Hz. I have 45 cubic feet. I am using Blue Print Audio 1803s designed for home theater/home music... 8-15 cubic feet per sub, 15Hz-25Hz tunings for these in home. I started off with IB3s with 110 cubic feet and a 15Hz tune. More than halving airspace and almost doubling the octave of tuning changed everything.

This is NOT a SQ vehicle. My speakers are in my ROOF! "Attention employyes, can we get a clean up in isle 5 please?" grocerie store PA system! I don't know what staging is. I don't know what imaging means. I just now started to use EQ and that was just for the subs because something was not right. A channel on one subwoofer amp blew so one sub was acting sort of like a passive radiator but not completely as it still saw some power.

I made this system for ME. Not to show noobies incorrectly how to do things. So for those of you that think you need to save the noobies from making mistakes, please do so with a little respect for me. I prefer different things than everyone else. I do not like the sound of SQ systems. I like 3kHz to 14kHz attenuated, and 14kHz on up to be extra bright. as of now, I wish i could afford to quadrouple my tweeters and tweeter amp... 16 tweeters and 4 500.2s. I cant afford to.

I like my 20Hz-35Hz that most people say does not exhist in music to be extremely exaggerated. If i could afford 16 RE Audio XXX 18's, new version, and 32 SAZ4500Ds, 80 batteries, and 10 alternators...I would. I can't. I used what I could afford for more displacement ( 4 18s with 3.5" excursion) and built a wall and made it a sridgid as my LIMITED talent permited to get as much gain as I could.

I like 35Hz-55Hz attenuated. Most of you people, this is YOUR favorite range. bass boost is sold on 90% of amps and preset to 45Hz on 90% of those for a reason. You guys usually tune around 30Hz-45Hz for a reason. YOU like it. I DONT!

I like 55Hz-200Hz LOUD. I like hard hitting snap and punch...kick. Mot 45Hz punch kick and slam. I dont care what YOU like. Build your own!


I suck at cosmetics. i am a goof ball, I am a dork, I suck at most everything I do. But I have ambition, I suck it up, and I deal with it. If I won the lottery dont think i wouldnt p[ay someone that knows what they are doing... my buddy jeff... to make it pretty. Rhapsody Purple paint job so dark it looks black unless its in bright sunlight. 22" rimz with air bags. Sheep skin lining the entire inside so all you see is glass windows, black speakers, and bright white wool. I cant afford to, i dont have the patience or talent, so I go out of my way to make it look worse cuz I am fed up with everyones comments on cosmetics. Build your own. Be glad you dont have to compete with my cosmetics, my SPL, or my SQ... cuz OBVIOUSELY you ALL would win in all three.

I want it loud and to sound clear when it is loud. Dont tell me it isnt loud and dont tell me it doesnt sound good. keep it to yourself. You havent sat in it.

KW: the lauging stock of audio, that doesnt give a **** and only tried harder to keep pissing you off when you keep hating.

This is not directed at any one person. This is 6 years in the making.

KW, failed super hero


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post #41 of 47 Old 04-27-2011, 08:09 PM - Thread Starter
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cut my finger and hand, bled all over the door panel, 13 stitches, 12 year old givin the bird, me swearing on easter sunday, caught a baby bunny wabbit on easter,
e-thuggin, e-ass kickin, cuttn the door panel off with a utility knife, repainted part of it yellow so it looks like ketchup and mustard

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Tal96azMdo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9kF4cyeHm-I






















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post #42 of 47 Old 04-29-2011, 09:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Went out to work on the van this AM, when I was backing up my garbage can jumped out at me and I busted the tail light. Took some pics of all the interior parts I have and sent some emails to a few junk yards then brough some parts to a local shop...didnt get the light yet. Brought my GF to work, 3 cops pulled in to get lunch...didnt say anything. Heading home to check emails, get pulled over. Cop starts trippin on stereo. Then asks how much it all cost. I knew I was gonna get pulled over, I saw him heading strait then all a sudden jump behind me, so i pulled into a lot before he hit his lights. He said it all added up to suspision so back up came and they searched. I thought for sure K-9s were gonna jump in and scratch up my subs ( and everything else but we all know it all looks like **** anyway) then i thought they were gonna start tearing it all apart. Didn't even get a warning ticket.

KW, failed super hero


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post #43 of 47 Old 05-06-2011, 01:09 PM - Thread Starter
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YUP. Since the begining of this build one of my amps was bad when I got it. With the new amp in I am several times louder down low and the sound is completely different. The alternator isn't a huge issue like it was before, because before I was making the other 3 amps and other 3 subs work much much harder because the sub off the bad amp was acting like a PR and the port was I giant leak. Now its loud as all hell down deep, I am so very happy now. I'll run REW in there again as soon as I can to see what it looks like. I need to tear the other tower down yet and get building the manifold in th house yet too.

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post #44 of 47 Old 06-10-2011, 12:05 AM - Thread Starter
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lets start it off right, yup, back to more caulk on MY car and I like it. The door jam mod hastened a known issue for the door handles busting, had to go heavy duty, had to do a mod for the pull down rod, when it's painted (unfortunately not 99c Walmart spray paint anymore, my buddy Jeff is all about asthetics and WON'T LET ME do it anymore, he mixed up some paint match at his job using my VIN# and he painted over the spray painted rust spots too) but anyway...the point...

Last year I did a big write up on PL400 vs PL375 vs PL PRO...spend the $$! I used PL400 for 10+ years and loved it, couldnt find it locally anymore, got 375 (not made for subfloor or heavy duty anyway?) And it SUCKED. It took 2 weeks to 1/2 way cure, then it failed anyway. Today I used PRO outside on the car, sudden thunderstorm flash...had errands to run, in the rain, all day..even 80 on the interstate...can't even tell!





Then there's the alt situation: emails and threads had a lot of "only supposed to charge at 13V anyway" today she was bouncing from 14.2-14.5V yeah! Lucky me. AND LOOK! 3/4 TANK!





Shut her off, still solid.


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post #45 of 47 Old 06-10-2011, 03:33 PM - Thread Starter
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post #46 of 47 Old 06-26-2011, 03:00 AM - Thread Starter
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post #47 of 47 Old 06-27-2011, 04:32 AM - Thread Starter
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before brandy fixed the port, with the IB3s in






















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