Looking for an EASY, "Plug and Play" powered sub option for my Honda Pilot... - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 6 Old 08-09-2011, 08:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Replaced the deck and threw in (4) decent 6.5" coaxes in the doors.

There's a built-in, dreadful, 10" sub in the rear kick panel, but my deck is a 4 channel and I've heard that the few subs that will fit in the allocated space (VERY shallow) are dreadful.

So, I'd like to reluctantly add a SMALL, powered box.

I found this on the Big River and hundreds of reviews I've read on multiple sited have deemed it a great option for the money: http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Bassl...2901421&sr=1-1

No, I do not need to rattle fillings loose, just add a decent low-end.

Are there comparable options under $200? I've been unable to locate any.

And, if anyone can help, it seems it simply requires a POS and NEG wire from the battery...will this be a nightmare to pull off for a novice DIY'er?

I'm honestly thinking about throwing the $40 at BB as I do not want to even begin to think about running the wire through what's sure to be 19' of hell...but I could be wrong. ???

thanks all,
James

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post #2 of 6 Old 08-09-2011, 09:16 AM
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I don't know how dreadful the stock sub is, but what'd I'd do is make the best of it. I'd start with a sub amp and run it to the stock sub. You only need two wires... a positive wire from the battery and sub RCA from your deck. Negative power you get from the chassis. I'm pretty sure you'll find one. If BB can run positive power (with the fuse) and RCAs for $40, that's a deal.

When you get to the stock sub, I'd make sure it's sealed it up and solidify the areas around it to ensure that when the sub cone moves, it's just the sub cone and not the screws and panels around it moving.

Set the xover on the amp to around 80 and set the xover on your deck (alot of them come with a basic high-pass xover for speakers now to 80 or higher) and begin tweaking. Chances are other things in your car will start rattling and hunkering those down is where the fun begins.

At least with this approach, if you're still unhappy, you already have wires and an amp that you can keep and are in place... you can simply add on a regular sub. By the way, JL audio may make a stealth box for your car, but they can get expensive.
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post #3 of 6 Old 08-09-2011, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razel View Post

Set the xover on the amp to around 80 and set the xover on your deck (alot of them come with a basic high-pass xover for speakers now to 80 or higher) and begin tweaking. Chances are other things in your car will start rattling and hunkering those down is where the fun begins.

+1

I'd start at 100Hz and go up. Even better would be to add a subsonic filter set to around 40Hz high pass to keep the stock sub from even trying to produce real deep bass. Once filtered and powered correctly most stock speakers don't so *that* bad. Half the time the distortion you hear is from the stock amp clipping - its running out of juice and generating nothing but noise. So adding a small amp might fix that. Then again the speaker could just be junk

Like razel said: if it still sounds like crap atleast you've got an amp all wired up and ready to go, then you can start looking into a replacement sub and a box.

I don't know much room you have, but Polk's MM series of subs fits into smaller locations and they sound great... I'm running one (a 12") in my Passat in a custom box right now. If the 10" is too big going down to an 8" will provide way more bass then the stock 10" does so don't over look using a smaller sub in the stock location.

If you've never put an amp in before running all the wires can be a challenge because YES you'll need wire from the (+) POS vehicles battery all the way back to amp along with the RCA signal wires from the deck. The (-) NEG connection goes to solid metal at the amps install location, it doesn't need to be run all the way back to the battery.

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post #4 of 6 Old 08-09-2011, 11:34 AM - Thread Starter
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^ Well men, I missed your suggestions before I picked up a like-new basslink for $75 off craigslist.

My brother is going to give me a hand putting it in as he has quite a bit of experience.

I think it'll be worthwhile for $75 and a pizza.

thanks though for the thoughts.

James

Actual phone call (see pic to left):

 

Tech (responding to laughter): "I'm sorry sir, did I miss something?"

Me: "Yeah, a case of Diet Mountain Dew walking across my living room."

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post #5 of 6 Old 06-16-2012, 07:07 PM
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How did the basslink turn out for you? I've been looking at them for the wife's car as it's the family ride so I'm looking for a small footprint. How does it sound?

Turn it up!
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post #6 of 6 Old 06-21-2012, 03:35 AM
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Originally Posted by djPerfectTrip View Post

How did the basslink turn out for you? I've been looking at them for the wife's car as it's the family ride so I'm looking for a small footprint. How does it sound?

Give it a shot.

I ran a basslink T in the Wife's Suburban for years. For what it was (a single 10 inch low profile sub and 2 ten inch pasive radiators and a 200 watt amp), it rocked the vehicle. The other models, are about as good. It's an easy workable all in one out of the box solution.

They key will be to get the transition in between the stock speakers and sub figured out.

Play around with the crossover nad the level.

Make sure all boost is at zero when you are setting it up.

Beware that some factory systems have volume dependent EQ. The louder you turn it up, the more attenuated the bass frequencies are. I ran into this with the Suburban. Had to replace the factory head unit with aftermarket to bypass that.

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