Need Help!!! Wiring amp, sub, to headunit - custom setup - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 92 Old 10-19-2012, 06:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi Everyone,

I am new to the forums. I just recently started the second stage in my upgrade process. I upgraded my car speakers to polk audio. I plan to run the front speakers off the head unit and the rear speakers, db 690, off the amp, as well as my sub. Please help me with the wiring and use of my head unit.

Head Unit
http://store.sony.com/p/Car-Audio-CD-Stereo/en/p/CDXGT260MP#specifications


Speakers
http://www.polkaudio.com/products/db690


AMP
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.aspx?itemid=233188


Please help me! I just want to set it up properly. Appreciate any help that I can get!
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post #2 of 92 Old 10-19-2012, 09:04 PM
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Should be an easy to wire set up. Front channels of amp power your polks. Set crossover on amp to the 80 hertz high pass.

Make sure your sub is 4 ohms or higher. Then attach to the bridged speaker terminal s ( left positive right negative) on the rear channels. Set low pass at 80 hertz.

Only thing that may cause an issue is the single set of rca's from the head unit. You may have to get a y splitter if the amp can't do a single pair driving all channels.

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post #3 of 92 Old 10-20-2012, 02:35 AM - Thread Starter
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So if I understand everything then I don't have to do anything with speaker wires on the amp? Really new to this and don't have an extra $75 to have the store install it. I can switch my rca between sub and rear. Since the amp has these preamp outs does that mean that all I need to run is the RCAs to the amp and the speakers will get power? That doesn't make sense to me....I supplied the wiring diagram for my head unit


CDX260MP Wiring Diagram.pdf 233k .pdf file
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post #4 of 92 Old 10-20-2012, 04:57 AM
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FWIW...if you are not going to power the front speakers from the prime amp. i don;t see any reason to power the rear fill speakers with the amp either.

why not then, just buy a mono sub amp?

If you have the amp already...i would power the front speakers with it, and power the rear fill speakers from the head unit power.

as for your amp question...

the headunit RCA outputs, for to the RF amp RCA inpout...not output. And then the speakers being powered need to be connected to the speaker outputs of the amp. ( not to be confused with any high level inputs on the amp)smile.gif

clear as mud yet?

Tim
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post #5 of 92 Old 10-20-2012, 01:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Stil confused. The reason I am powering the Rear speakers is because my rear speakers are much stronger than the front ones and can handle up to 100 rms. Soooo.....how do I use a this rca splitter and can someone show me which one to buy....really clear as mudd lol
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post #6 of 92 Old 10-20-2012, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nole13 View Post

Stil confused. The reason I am powering the Rear speakers is because my rear speakers are much stronger than the front ones and can handle up to 100 rms. Soooo.....how do I use a this rca splitter and can someone show me which one to buy....really clear as mudd lol

yes but...you want your front speakers to anchor the sound, and the rear speakers to fill in the sound...and the subwoofer to handle the low frequencies.

maybe start from the beginning...what kind of car...and what do you have for front and rear speakers...and what are you still needing to buy?

What RCA splitter are you asking about?

i realize rereading my last post that i had not had my coffee yet....

I was trying to give you the "signal chain"

It starts at the head unit...the RCA's from the HU will go to the Input side of the amp....and then the speaker outputs must be connected to the speakers of your car.

I say that because you were asking about what you had to do to the speaker outputs of the amp.....i was saying you must connect them to the speakers.

What you don't have to deal with is any speaker level "inputs" on the amp....because you have RCA's coming from the HU. If you did NOT have RCA's coming from the HU ...its possible to connect the speaker wires coming off the HU to the INPUT side of the amp to keep the signal chain moving.

It sounds like you need to find a really basic intro to car audio page...there are lots of good ones out there.

Tim
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post #7 of 92 Old 10-20-2012, 01:59 PM - Thread Starter
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I have speakers, amp, amp kit, and head unit....anything missing? And the part that confuses me is that if you look at the amp their are two sets of RCAs and I dont know which one to use. Any help would be great! At this point I believe that I will just power all four speakers and leave the subwoofer for later on.

Its a 2005 Chevrolet Classic
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post #8 of 92 Old 10-20-2012, 02:53 PM
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easy...front RCA's and rear RCA's....thats a 4 channel amp.

Does your Head unit provide front and rear RCA's?

This is how i would do it...

Front RCA from HU to Front RCA of amp...and then on the opposite side of the amp i would connect the front speaker outputs to my front speakers.

Then Rear RCA's from HU to rear RCA of amp....and then i would bridge the rear channel speaker outputs to go to my subwoofer....

and i would save the rear fill speakers for later.....and gthen when later comes, i would change my connections on the rear speaker outputs to then go to my raer speakers.

and i would buy a mono amp to power my subwoofer....

this assumes you have a 4 channel Head unit....i will check out the model you have and see if i need to edit this post.

EDIT...you do not have 4 channel RCA outputs...mad.gif

Are you married to that deck and that amp? They don't play as well together as i would like....

Tim
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post #9 of 92 Old 10-20-2012, 03:35 PM - Thread Starter
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I mean I just put in the head unit about 2 weeks ago and decided I would build a system. Is there a way to make it work?
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post #10 of 92 Old 10-20-2012, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nole13 View Post

I mean I just put in the head unit about 2 weeks ago and decided I would build a system. Is there a way to make it work?

sure you can make it work...

amp...you have this....did you buy it new? Is it returnable?

sub...do you own a sub? what sub do you own? and is it in a box? ported or sealed? whats the final impedance load being presented to the amp?



heres where i see you are....the head unit while bein very much an entry level deck...claims to produce 50 watts per channel... which should be fine for your front and rear speakers.

It has a single RCA output....that can be for rear ( or front ) but not both...or sub...whihc is why i am asking about the status of your amp and subwoofers....

you "could" use the rear RCA and run it back to the amp...and buy a pair of y adapters to send signal to all 4 channels of the amp...this just eliminates the fading capability of your system....but you could do this..

This can work great....lots of ifs....and i will check the amp out further....

i would still power rear speakers with the HU...and the frotn speakers..(what are they?) with the RF amp....and then i would use the rear channels of the rockford amp ( teed off the Y connector) for the subwoofer....

i just want to check the amp to see if it has individual front and rear sensitivity controls...and that the rear has individual low pass for the sub and a separate high pass for t he front speakers.

hang on a sec and i will check...

edit:

yes that will work...you will get a fixed high pass filter of 80 hz for either your front or rear speakers...and a adjustable low pass filter for your subwoofer...and you can control them individually...so you are cool...you just need a pair of y connectors...female in to 2 male out...and you are golden.

so front or rear will come from head unit amp...and then front or rear will come front rockford 2 channels...and sub will come front other 2 rockford channels bridged....(if they bridge )

Tim
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post #11 of 92 Old 10-20-2012, 04:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Well my deck has built in high and low pass filters. Should I use those at all? And so I should keep everything I have? Do you know of a better amp around the same price that will fit my deck and system better? And thanks for all the info so far!


One thing I do know is that the 50Wx4 is peak, not RMS. So i'm probably lucky if im getting 17 rms.
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post #12 of 92 Old 10-20-2012, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nole13 View Post

Well my deck has built in high and low pass filters. Should I use those at all? And so I should keep everything I have? Do you know of a better amp around the same price that will fit my deck and system better? And thanks for all the info so far!
One thing I do know is that the 50Wx4 is peak, not RMS. So i'm probably lucky if im getting 17 rms.

if you are going to use Y connectors....then you have to send a full range signal thru the RCA and then use the filters on the amp to send highs to the speakers, and lows to the sub.

yes you can use what you have....and the amp can be brided to send a mono signal to the sub...what sub are you using?

The prime amp you have a relatively low powered amp...but its fine for now. it will get you 120 watts to a sub...you will want a single voice coil 4 i believe.

I Have a rockford punch 500 amp...it puts out tons of power even if its only rated at 200x1

and yeah i know you are only getting 10-15 watts out of the HU...but again it should be fine...it wont sound like a concert...but it should be clean and loud.

Tim
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post #13 of 92 Old 10-20-2012, 04:26 PM - Thread Starter
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I havent bought it yet, but I was going to buy
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.aspx?itemid=120405

So i'm still a little confused on the y-connectors. In my mind right now I would run the rca's to the amp and put them in the rear rca inputs. Then run either the front or back off the amp individually and finally bridge the last two channels to power the sub. Does that work? Where does the y-adapter fit in? Sorry if these are silly questions i just dont want to ruin anything.
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post #14 of 92 Old 10-20-2012, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nole13 View Post

I havent bought it yet, but I was going to buy
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.aspx?itemid=120405
So i'm still a little confused on the y-connectors. In my mind right now I would run the rca's to the amp and put them in the rear rca inputs. Then run either the front or back off the amp individually and finally bridge the last two channels to power the sub. Does that work? Where does the y-adapter fit in? Sorry if these are silly questions i just dont want to ruin anything.

not silly at all...you are close...you would run the single pair of RCA's back from the Hed unit to the trunk where the amp is.. Then instead of plugging the left RCA into the rear left RCA input of the amp you would plug it into the Y cable, giving you now TWO lefts...same for the right cable...are you with me?

Then you plug the 2 left ends of the Y cable into front and reat left on the amp....and same for the right side. got it?


This sends that full range stereo 2-channel output from the hed unit into the all FOUR channels of the rockford amplifier.

And from there 2 channels of the amp (front left sand right) go back up into the car to power your speakers ( front or rear your choice)....and the remaining two channels can power your sub.

i probably would not buy that sub....i can suggest several others. that would be better.

What kind of music do you like? And are you thinking ported box to get louder? Or sealed box to remain a little tighter?

the amp does not have a sub sonic filter....so i think i would suggest sealed....to better protect the driver....or Infinite baffle...but for simplicity tsake lets say sealed, and i think i would suggest a 12 over a 10.

Tim
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post #15 of 92 Old 10-20-2012, 06:13 PM
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Was gonna offer the same advice as tundrsq regarding hooking up the front speakers until I realized they were factory. The nice thing is, with the fosgate 4 channel amp, you have an easy upgrade path. You can always purchase a mono sub amp later as we'll as some speakers to replace the factory front ones. Then you can power the four interior ones and have more than 120 watts on the sub.

I am assuming you are a teenager or early early 20's. since you are probably looking for good sound with lots of volume and a limited budget I am glad you are going the route you are. I have helped so many of my son's and nephew's friends that did a deck powered front end with a amped sub and in the end they were unhappy with the sound. The bass will not be as earth shaking but you will have some and the ability to add lots more down the road all while not sacrificing the pother frequencies.

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KARSS1F2M

Y connector. You need two of them.

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post #16 of 92 Old 10-20-2012, 06:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks that really cleared up the confusion of the y-adapter!!! I really do not want to take up a lot of trunk space that's why i wanted to go with a 10. And probably a sealed box. I'm not looking for earth shaking bass, but i want to feel the bass, you know? I really listen to everything. It all depends so i'm not trying to gear the system to anything specific rather get some better quality. The main reason for picking that sub is that my local store has it for $59.99 + $35 for a sealed box. Is that a good deal or can I get something better? Also last question would I be better off just leaving all speakers on the head unit and then just get a mono amp and powering my sub and running those RCAs directly into the amp and just using the amp for the sub?
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post #17 of 92 Old 10-20-2012, 06:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cubdenno View Post

Was gonna offer the same advice as tundrsq regarding hooking up the front speakers until I realized they were factory. The nice thing is, with the fosgate 4 channel amp, you have an easy upgrade path. You can always purchase a mono sub amp later as we'll as some speakers to replace the factory front ones. Then you can power the four interior ones and have more than 120 watts on the sub.
I am assuming you are a teenager or early early 20's. since you are probably looking for good sound with lots of volume and a limited budget I am glad you are going the route you are. I have helped so many of my son's and nephew's friends that did a deck powered front end with a amped sub and in the end they were unhappy with the sound. The bass will not be as earth shaking but you will have some and the ability to add lots more down the road all while not sacrificing the pother frequencies.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KARSS1F2M
Y connector. You need two of them.

Hi thanks for the input. I do have polks in the front as well, but I do not remember the model number since I put them in about 3 years ago.

Question on the Y-adapters....does it matter that the female is red....should I get one with red and one with black?? Am i just over thinking it?
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post #18 of 92 Old 10-20-2012, 06:21 PM
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http://www.jbl.com/estore/jbl/us/products/GTO1014/GTO1014_JBL_US?skuId=GTO1014_JBL_US

Do a search for this sub. It will out perform that prime sub.

I know it's a bit more expensive but you will be money ahead. They are great subs. If you can afford it, the twelve will have even more output. Sealed or ported. Can set you up with a decent design for it as we'll if you want to try your hand at building an enclosure. Can offer a dozen more sub choices that will make you more happy than that prime if the jbl doesn't catch your eye. That's the nice thing about subs. No reason unless you are putting kilowatts on a single one to spend big dollars on them.

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post #19 of 92 Old 10-20-2012, 06:27 PM
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Well heck! If you got the front drivers in, power them! The 6X9's will be loud enough and add some much needed mid bass. Hell. Run both sets off the front channels of the amp. 2 ohm load. Just confirm the model of the fronts if you can.pretty sure they will be 4 ohm though. You won't have fade capability but the interior speakers will be loud enough and they will be playing 80 hertz and up.

Then when you upgrade the sub amp portion for some extra low end... It's a simple change of speaker wire at the amp. To get each speaker it's own amp channel.

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post #20 of 92 Old 10-20-2012, 06:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cubdenno View Post

http://www.jbl.com/estore/jbl/us/products/GTO1014/GTO1014_JBL_US?skuId=GTO1014_JBL_US
Do a search for this sub. It will out perform that prime sub.
I know it's a bit more expensive but you will be money ahead. They are great subs. If you can afford it, the twelve will have even more output. Sealed or ported. Can set you up with a decent design for it as we'll if you want to try your hand at building an enclosure. Can offer a dozen more sub choices that will make you more happy than that prime if the jbl doesn't catch your eye. That's the nice thing about subs. No reason unless you are putting kilowatts on a single one to spend big dollars on them.

The sub is the punch level...don't know if that makes a difference. Also I can get that sub at $60. Is that worth it or is it still worth it to pay more? I'm still open to any suggestions for other subs, but really trying to come in at $100 including the box....
'
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post #21 of 92 Old 10-20-2012, 06:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cubdenno View Post

Well heck! If you got the front drivers in, power them! The 6X9's will be loud enough and add some much needed mid bass. Hell. Run both sets off the front channels of the amp. 2 ohm load. Just confirm the model of the fronts if you can.pretty sure they will be 4 ohm though. You won't have fade capability but the interior speakers will be loud enough and they will be playing 80 hertz and up.
Then when you upgrade the sub amp portion for some extra low end... It's a simple change of speaker wire at the amp. To get each speaker it's own amp channel.

They are all 4 ohm speakers. Wouldn't it be better to run them at the same loads? I'm not sure on the loads and everything, but I was assuming that it should all match up? If the speakers are 4 ohms stable shouldn't the amp match up?
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post #22 of 92 Old 10-20-2012, 06:45 PM
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http://www.amazon.com/JBL-GTO1014-Die-Cast-Single-Voice-Coil-Subwoofer/dp/B003KN2TIU/ref=pd_cp_e_1


http://www.amazon.com/JBL-GTO1014-Die-Cast-Single-Voice-Coil-Subwoofer/dp/B003KN2TIU/ref=pd_cp_e_1

This box has free shipping. The nice thing is, if the performance of the ported box isn't for you, go to Walmart and pick up foam rubber ac unit sealer .get the 2X2x36 and you seal the port. I am concerned that with the power you will be running, you will be disappointed in the output. The bit of extra low end should compensate.

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post #23 of 92 Old 10-20-2012, 06:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tundrSQ View Post

not silly at all...you are close...you would run the single pair of RCA's back from the Hed unit to the trunk where the amp is.. Then instead of plugging the left RCA into the rear left RCA input of the amp you would plug it into the Y cable, giving you now TWO lefts...same for the right cable...are you with me?
Then you plug the 2 left ends of the Y cable into front and reat left on the amp....and same for the right side. got it?
This sends that full range stereo 2-channel output from the hed unit into the all FOUR channels of the rockford amplifier.
And from there 2 channels of the amp (front left sand right) go back up into the car to power your speakers ( front or rear your choice)....and the remaining two channels can power your sub.
i probably would not buy that sub....i can suggest several others. that would be better.
What kind of music do you like? And are you thinking ported box to get louder? Or sealed box to remain a little tighter?
the amp does not have a sub sonic filter....so i think i would suggest sealed....to better protect the driver....or Infinite baffle...but for simplicity tsake lets say sealed, and i think i would suggest a 12 over a 10.

What kind of subs and price are we looking at? Really want to save space and money.
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post #24 of 92 Old 10-20-2012, 06:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cubdenno View Post

http://www.amazon.com/JBL-GTO1014-Die-Cast-Single-Voice-Coil-Subwoofer/dp/B003KN2TIU/ref=pd_cp_e_1
http://www.amazon.com/JBL-GTO1014-Die-Cast-Single-Voice-Coil-Subwoofer/dp/B003KN2TIU/ref=pd_cp_e_1
This box has free shipping. The nice thing is, if the performance of the ported box isn't for you, go to Walmart and pick up foam rubber ac unit sealer .get the 2X2x36 and you seal the port. I am concerned that with the power you will be running, you will be disappointed in the output. The bit of extra low end should compensate.

Does it come with a box? Or did you mean to add a different link? Thanks!
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post #25 of 92 Old 10-20-2012, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nole13 View Post

They are all 4 ohm speakers. Wouldn't it be better to run them at the same loads? I'm not sure on the loads and everything, but I was assuming that it should all match up? If the speakers are 4 ohms stable shouldn't the amp match up?

you could run both front and rear speakers off the front half of the amp (at 2ohms)....you will just lose the ability to fade (balance front vs rear)...not a bad idea to try it.

Tim
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post #26 of 92 Old 10-20-2012, 06:55 PM
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Two links there. Missed the space. Typing on a dang iPad.......eek.gif

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post #27 of 92 Old 10-20-2012, 06:58 PM
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$100 for a box and driver including shipping is not an "optimal" budget ....

i found this....should work fine...2 of them would be better:)

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_36441_Boston-Acoustics-G110PS.html

Tim
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post #28 of 92 Old 10-20-2012, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by tundrSQ View Post

$100 for a box and driver including shipping is not an "optimal" budget ....
i found this....should work fine...2 of them would be better:)
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_36441_Boston-Acoustics-G110PS.html

Nice find! I forget about the good deals on Boston now. Look at Boston's website. The may be even better deals or at least there used to be.

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post #29 of 92 Old 10-20-2012, 07:30 PM - Thread Starter
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What amp should I be using with this? The same one I have now? Or is there a comparable amp that can be a better set up?
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post #30 of 92 Old 10-20-2012, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by nole13 View Post

What amp should I be using with this? The same one I have now? Or is there a comparable amp that can be a better set up?

i picked the sub based on using your existing amp...you can see on the website that there is another one just like it only with 2 10's....its $150..but that one would not work i don't think. You can bridge 2 channels of that amp...but only 2 a 4ohm load i believe....not a 2 ohm load. Yes i know thats confusing...you can do a 2 ohm stereo load...but not mono.

If you decided to go for the 2 10's....you would need to budget at least another $100 for a dedicated mono amp...but you would likely be happier for longer....no free lunch.cool.gif

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