2013 Honda Accord LX Sedan Upgrade - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 10 Old 05-14-2013, 07:20 PM - Thread Starter
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The 9th generation Accords are said to have dismal speakers, so I've looked into adding an amp and swapping the 4 stock speakers with something better.

A local car stereo place recommended:

Focal Access 6.5" coaxial (for the rear) x2 + Focal Access 6.5" component (for the front) x2 - $400 for all 4 speakers.

JL Audio JX 360/4 Amp - $249.95

Speaker install - $175

Amp install - $129

RCA adapter $29

Battery cable - $59 - $99.

I know almost nothing about stereos and am just starting the learning process. Are these prices what people really pay to upgrade?? This whole thing with tax adds up to like $1,000+ here in FL, USA. The stock stereo is 160 watts, and an amp of 360 watts seems lower than a lot of other amps out there.

I was hoping to do a simple cheap upgrade for like $600, but I guess that's unreasonable?

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post #2 of 10 Old 05-16-2013, 08:34 AM
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Well, part of that cost is install. So if you feel like you can pop off some panels and give it a go yourself it's worth a shot. Second you are paying retail. there is a mark up on those components. you are going in blind and getting the recommendation of the store. there is a cost to doing that.


I suggest you start with just swapping speakers. You may find that doing so will make the system sound better with just that. While I am not a Focal fan, they are not bad speakers.

Some questions

What are your sonic goals

What type of music do you listen to?

Does the 9th Gen Honda you have use a volume dependent EQ/signal processing to reduce the amount of bass the louder you turn it up? You may want to ask the shop.


Without knowing your tastes, goals and listening volume, it's hard to actually recommend something and end with you being happy and satified with the money you spent.

heck, a lot of factory systems especially a 4 speaker set up lack umph in the low end. Sometimes just adding a small subwoofer and amp/powered sub is enough to take the load off the other speakers and you can enjoy the factory system.

For your average car audio person, I usually suggest these steps. Granted, I usually research the car a bit but we will just go with the steps for now.


1. Add a subwoofer and an amp or a powered subwoofer (sized based on what the person is wanting.)

2. Replace the front speakers to usually a component set woofer and separate tweeter with a decent passive crossover.

3. change out head unit or add a signal processor if the factory head unit is a PIA or uber integrated.

4. Add an amplifier to power the cabin speakers.



Now, you can combine 1,2, and 4 pretty easy and cheaply. Buy a 4 channel amp. Bridge channels 3 and 4 into a mono channel of decent power and power the subwoofer. Use channels 1 and 2 to power the front speakers.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22325_Image-Dynamics-CXS64-v.2.html

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_45048_JBL-MS-62C.html

Cheaper set
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12260_JBL-P660C.html

Amplifiers

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_69802_Kenwood-XR400-4.html

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_39894_Polk-Audio-PA-D4000.4-PAD4000.4.html

Or a 5 channel that will drive all interior speakers AND a dedicated channel for a subwoofer
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_27733_Massive-Audio-NX5.html

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_39895_Polk-Audio-PA-D5000.5-PAD5000.5.html

Subwoofer for the five channel amp

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-463


Subwoofer for the 4 channel amp

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-462

Basically same subwoofer just different coil configs.

You honestly will not find a better sub for the money that works fantastically in .7 cubic foot (that's point seven) ported to 30 hertz. heck double the money and it won't be better. Clean distortion free uncolored bass. You can go cheaper for sure. Look at kicker/Fosgate/Alpine/Sundown etc... I canthrow out some examples if you want.


So to show you how I would budget

Kenwood amp
JBL GTO speakers
Dayton Sub

~600 bucks after wiring kit and simple sealed enclosure not counting if you have to pay for the install

Rocking system that should blow the doors off the stock one (rounding prices)

Polk or Massive 5 channel at 300

ID speakers or the JBL MS at 300

Dayton DVC HO subwoofer or if you want more, 2 of them gives you even more low end support

ported enclosure
4 gauge wiring kit

~1100 bucks + install

Or any other combination you can think of. I just threw out some brands i am familiar with that won't break the bank. Sonic is a great place to deal with. look at Amazon as well.

Sorry if I overwhelmed you...

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post #3 of 10 Old 05-16-2013, 08:34 AM
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Auto dupe??

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post #4 of 10 Old 05-16-2013, 08:34 AM
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YIKES Triple dupe!!

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post #5 of 10 Old 05-16-2013, 09:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for a great reply. Those Polk amps are tempting. Looking at the fuses, I guess it's gonna pull up to 60 - 80 amperes of current depending on which amp I get. Hopefully that won't give the car a heart attack! Any kind of music is good EXCEPT country, jazz, or opera (yuck!).

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post #6 of 10 Old 05-16-2013, 09:31 AM
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http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Alpine+-+8%22+Dual-Voice-Coil+4-Ohm+Subwoofer+with+Enclosure/3527085.p?id=1218410271717&skuId=3527085&cmp=RMX&ky=2osewwzdCrbzQ1GSkGq8l2Pqc8Sa8YrUW#tab=reviews

Deal of the day. great deal!! Very nice sub.


Just as a point of reference, I have installed in my 06 Toyota Solara with factory 80 amp alternator and Sears Die Hard Platinum Battery, 3 amplifiers. 2 Sundown Audio SAX100.4 (100X4) and a single Sundown Audio SAZ1500D (1500X1).

1 4 channel is running 4 channel and the other is bridged to two channels. so 400 on the 4 channel, 800 on the bridged 4 channel and 1500 on the mono amp. Most current draw I have seen is ~120 amps.

If you max the volume knob and play a lot of tone heavy music, then you will drain the battery. But if you are listening with some degree of being reasonable, then your stock electrical will be fine. Most music barring dance/hip hop/rap is very dynamic. you should be fine...

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post #7 of 10 Old 05-16-2013, 08:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Here's what I'm looking at going with:

Rockford Fosgate R600-4D Amp - $234.99
Image Dynamics CTX-65 Coaxials - $119.99
MTX Audio TX6 Components - $121.00 -OR-
Rockford Fosgate Power T1652-S Components - $169.99.

This will leave up to $400 - $500 for the installation to keep the whole thing under a grand. I'm still undecided between the MTX or Rockford component speakers for the front.

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post #8 of 10 Old 05-17-2013, 07:14 AM
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Spend 60 bucks more and get the polk 5 channel.

Everything else looks fine.

I am betting the Fosgate speakers will be the better ones.

Keep an open mind about adding a subwoofer. they are not JUST for the boom that teens drive around spreading . They will add a solid foundation that your front/rear speakers just can't do. It takes that load off them allowing the interior speakers to play cleaner. That 5 channel allows you to do that.

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post #9 of 10 Old 05-17-2013, 07:05 PM - Thread Starter
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The Frequency Response of the MTXs is 44 - 20,000 Hz, but the Fosgate speakers are 55 - 22,000 Hz. Does this mean the MTXs will be better at lower frequencies but the Fosgates better at higher frequencies?

And, the MTXs are 90/180 watts RMS/peak, the Fosgates are 100/200 watts RMS/peak. So I guess it's a tradeoff. Either slightly high power but slightly less frequency range, or vice-versa. And, the Fosgates are $49 bucks more.

Huhhhh, still deciding...rolleyes.gif

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post #10 of 10 Old 05-20-2013, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyGalaga View Post

The Frequency Response of the MTXs is 44 - 20,000 Hz, but the Fosgate speakers are 55 - 22,000 Hz. Does this mean the MTXs will be better at lower frequencies but the Fosgates better at higher frequencies?

And, the MTXs are 90/180 watts RMS/peak, the Fosgates are 100/200 watts RMS/peak. So I guess it's a tradeoff. Either slightly high power but slightly less frequency range, or vice-versa. And, the Fosgates are $49 bucks more.

Huhhhh, still deciding...rolleyes.gif

Honestly, you are probably not going to notice a difference in the two unless one set is just awful or the tweeter is bright/harsh/dull/fill in your own descriptor . The difference in frequency response is negligible and I seriously doubt, accurate. especially on the low end. At the power rating they give.

the folks at DIYMA had some really good points.

My suggestion still is to buy a front set of speakers. Install them. On the stock set up. Give it a listen. What is it missing? If it's volume/output, get an amp.

If you absolutely want to swap the rear speakers, go ahead. It won't hurt. Just generally money that can be used elsewhere. IF you use rear speakers, i keep them lower as to not pull the sound to the rear.

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