TS-A6965 or TS-A6975 to match DEH-P7400MP? - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 06-19-2013, 12:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Just as the title states, I am wondering which pair would be best suited to match my aging DEH-7400MP Headunit. TS-A6965 or TS-A6975? less than $60 is my price range for this great old truck, and aging HU. I have ordered a PIONEER CD-RB10 to hook up to an mp3 player and no longer have to deal with CD's. I HOPE it works. I've read all about enabling/selecting AUX, so I feel a little more confident there's a chance of success using that as a music source. Opinions are very welcomed here though.

Any helpful input on this will be most appreciated as I'm ready to buy and install asap.

Because my rear 6x9's rotted away over the years I had to fade all sound to the front Pioneer 6 1/2" ones in the doors. This is all going in my 1991 Toyota SR5 extra-cab pickup. Back in my youth, I tried to self proclaim being an "audiophile" of sorts, and to some degree I was. But then I picked up this HU once I bought this truck, and was succumbed by the appeal of size. a 2" mid and a 1 1/2" tweeter? Unheard of in my opinion. I will try to include photos of these beauties....now that they are seriously toasted. hmm. keeps failing to upload, even though the progress finishes. Well, I've never worked with Google Images before, but here is a try with that: https://picasaweb.google.com/celchlepp/12YearOldJensenJTX3269S?authkey=Gv1sRgCN-93r6X-tq5EQ&feat=email confused.gif

Here are the specs of the Pioneer headunit: http://www.crutchfield.com/S-nsvQLL3S89a/p_130DEHP740/Pioneer-DEH-P7400MP.html#details-tab Is it best to try to match the freq. response, or the S/N ratio? or what for amateur matching of equipment?

Anyway, they're Jensen JTX3269's. 160Peak, 60 Continuous, 92dB sensitivity. Satisfied my needs for many years. If that gives any indication as to what would work best as I definitely don't have the availability to go give them a listen anywhere.

Last request here for this headunit: I have looked quite a bit for the power output of the onboard sub outs, to no avail. How can I match a sub to this unit?

TIA,
Chuck smile.gif
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post #2 of 11 Old 06-19-2013, 08:53 PM
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The 6965's will work and they fall within your budget price close enough.

The sub out is a 2 volt output with built in low pass. It is not amplified. To use the sub out rca's you need to either use an external amp or a powered subwoofer.
Now the head unit description says that the 50x4 outputs are powerful enough to power a sub, but I would not go that route. As cheap as a small amp would be or a powered sub, it in my opinion would be very easy to do the powered sub.
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post #3 of 11 Old 06-19-2013, 09:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks a bunch Cub for exactly the reply I was looking for. For some reason, I took a liking to the 65's as soon as I read about 'em. I'm on the hunt for an affordable decent powered sub. any recommendations? I know not to pay much attention to the usually overstated wattages from many companies, so I don't get lost 'n starry eyed with ooooooo, 500watts! or some other nonsense. I'm not after anything bigtime, just want to keep things small 'n simple. A sub is something I've never even considered until I pulled the unit out of my dash and thought, hmm, what else can I do while this is out?

Not sure yet if it's powered or not, but here is a decent priced one for an example, (looking for your opinion obviously) http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLBW84-600-Watt-High-powered-Subwoofer/dp/B000CQCGSG/ref=sr_1_3?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1371702562&sr=1-3&keywords=%22Powered+Subwoofer%22
Great signature by the way. funny stuff.
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post #4 of 11 Old 06-21-2013, 08:46 AM
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That subwoofer you listed will work fine. it's cheap, you are not going to ask to much from it. Now all you will need is an enclosure and an amplifier.

Since I am unsure of how much space you are willing to give up in your truck, I will wait for your responce.

Here is a powered sub like I was referring to
http://www.amazon.com/Blaupunkt-150-Watt-8-Inch-Preloaded-Subwoofer/dp/B0043EK3QK/ref=sr_1_27?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1371827847&sr=1-27

it won't be something that is going to be heard 12 blocks away, but will definitely augment the low end. And the price is not terrible.

Here is the listings i used.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=lp_3009141_nr_n_1?rh=n%3A172282%2Cn%3A%21493964%2Cn%3A3248684011%2Cn%3A1077068%2Cn%3A226184%2Cn%3A3009141%2Cn%3A3009181&bbn=3009141&ie=UTF8&qid=1371827729&rnid=3009141#/ref=sr_pg_2?rh=n%3A172282%2Cn%3A%21493964%2Cn%3A3248684011%2Cn%3A1077068%2Cn%3A226184%2Cn%3A3009141%2Cn%3A3009181&page=2&bbn=3009141&ie=UTF8&qid=1371827738


I used a version of this in my wife's old suburban. It added a nice low end. was powered and an easy addition to her existing system. It is not overwhelmingly large. And with my past experience with the brand, would not hesitate to purchase for an application similar to yours.
http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Basslink-200-Watt-10-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B000063TJY/ref=lp_3009141_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371828154&sr=1-1

Now, if you want to NOT get an all in one, and use the sub you listed,

enclosure option
http://www.amazon.com/Single-Subwoofer-Sealed-Enclosure-8-Inch/dp/B003LYL4R0/ref=sr_1_8?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1371828530&sr=1-8&keywords=enclosures

amplifier listing
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dcar-electronics&field-keywords=mono+amplifier#/ref=sr_pg_4?rh=n%3A172282%2Cn%3A3248684011%2Cn%3A1077068%2Ck%3Amono+amplifier&page=4&sort=price&keywords=mono+amplifier&ie=UTF8&qid=1371828698

I suggest looking at around a 100 to 125 dollars for something that is going to last more than a year. The Kenwood, Alpine and Audiopipe amps stick out. Audiopipe is a low end brand but generally lasts, puts out close to rated power etc... I have installed about 10 of them in friends of my son's vehicles.

http://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-Kac-5001ps-Class-Power-Amplifier/dp/B00B8B0Q9A/ref=sr_1_83?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1371828765&sr=1-83&keywords=mono+amplifier

http://www.amazon.com/AUDIOPIPE-APSM-1300-1000W-Audio-Amplifier/dp/B004KA81AW/ref=sr_1_95?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1371828765&sr=1-95&keywords=mono+amplifier

http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-MRV-M250-Mono-subwoofer-amplifier/dp/B00BLQ2T9M/ref=sr_1_59?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1371828698&sr=1-59&keywords=mono+amplifier



So by the time you get all of that AND a wiring kit (you will need one for a powered sub as well...) you might as well buy a powered sub. Neat clean small all in one package. power, gound and remote wires and a single set of RCA's.

Hope this helps and good luck!!




As for the Sig, I can't remember where I heard it or a version of it. it stuck with me and well... biggrin.gif no one really does. It either makes them uncomfortable or makes them feel funny in their pants.

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post #5 of 11 Old 06-21-2013, 11:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Okay, for better or worse I just bought this for $30 delivered: Dual XPA2500 300 Watt 2-Channel Amplifier. (I got excited after reading the reviews on Crutchfield about it, and took the plunge to buy it. rolleyes.gif

PLEASE reassure me I did okay..... smile.gif You know I'm not too sure what I'm doing with all this yet, but if this amp is good, then I'm on the hunt to match the perfect affordable (less than $30 or $40 ish) subwoofer to it. Trust me, I'd love to spring for much of the equipment you mentioned, but way out of my price range right now. I know when you spend a bunch for proven names, it normally lasts. but my personal preferences are so low and I require so little to please me audibly that I'm not too worried about it. I'm handy 'n cheap that way. smile.gif

Could you explain to me where dBA ties into the picture of levels of potential distortion? sometimes, not always for sure, but sometimes I like to crank it, but I don't want to blow anything out of ignorance or poor planning here.

Here is some info on the amp:

Dual XPA2500 300 Watt 2-Channel Amplifier

The Dual XPA2500 2-channel mobile audio amp features all of the power, in/out connectivity, and protection you need to complete a truly rockin' ride. Its solid construction incorporates an extruded aluminum heat sink that strengthens the chassis while dumping excess heat.

Specifications: • Power output: 50 watts RMS x 2 (4 ohm), 75 watts RMS x 2 (2 ohm), 150 watts RMS x 1 (4 ohm), 300 watts max x 1 • Total harmonic distortion (THD) + N: < 1% at rated output • Signal to noise ratio (S/N): > 75 dBA • Input sensitivity: 200 mV~ 6 V • Frequency response: 20-20,000 Hz • Dimensions: 9.17" L x 8.9" W x 2.13" D • One-year manufacturer's warranty.

Additional features:

•Low level RCA inputs
•High level speaker inputs
•Class A/B output design
•Stereo/bridged simultaneous operation
•Extruded aluminum heat sink
•Barrier strip connection terminals
•Side mounted controls
•Auto-reset speaker short circuit protection
•Speaker short circuit protection
•Reverse polarity protection
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post #6 of 11 Old 06-21-2013, 12:28 PM
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I have zero experience with dual branded stuff. No worries though. Crutchfield is the bomb-diggity.

NOW...

Make sure that whatever sub you get, the final coil config is 4 ohms for a mono load (amp is bridged).

That means a single 4 ohm coil, dual 8 ohm coils or dual 2 ohm coils. The subwoofer you initially linked will not work with that amplifier. That sub is a dual coil four ohm per coil. (technically it can, but for the sake of our current discussion and not wanting to confuse you on how to wire it all up let's leave it at that.)

I suggest a single 4 ohm coil to keep the magic smoke inside the amplifier.
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post #7 of 11 Old 06-21-2013, 02:19 PM - Thread Starter
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I am going to wait until I have the amp here before I order a sub to match it though, just to make sure the amp works. that should be sometimes next week I think. wink.gif
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post #8 of 11 Old 07-08-2013, 01:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Okay. I have it but haven't tested it yet. I've had it for a while, but grad school is all I seem to do anymore. In my last week of this semester! woohoo! Anyway, my doubtless bafflingly ignorant question is: What exactly does an amplifier do for a car stereo? By definition, I would expect it merely to make what anything from the HU LOUDER. Is that it? Does it add "body" and fullness (yes, kind of like good wine) to the music? Or does it just make use of all those unused idling watts waiting in the speaker to become airborne seeking to decrease the accuracy of the nearest willing eardrum? rolleyes.gif

I ask this in the interest of perhaps saving myself the trouble of wiring in an amp only to discover I don't really need it. My Pioneer DEH-M7400MP puts out some pretty voluminous sounds in my opinion, and the audio customizations are, again in my opinion, plenty to satisfy my needs. For some of the music I listen to (a select few from Charlie Parr for example at rather high volume, or ANY song from my great friend Jalan Crossland), there seems to be plenty of bass to the point of having to back the bass off a bit, from the HU.

Thanks for any further info on this subject. Yeah, I know, I could've looked it up via a simple Google search, but you all are far more informative, often entertaining, and all around better. wink.gif
Chuck
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post #9 of 11 Old 07-08-2013, 05:26 PM
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Without going into a massive wordy answer that you would be better served just by googling audio amplifier, a stand alone amp gives you more head room for potential musical peaks, lower distortion and the ability to drive more speakers.

Just for reference, look at the size of your two channel fifty watt per channel amplifier. Compare that with the head unit thàt has the fifty watt per channel four channel amp built in. The audio chip ( that's singular) in your head unit while appareñtly powerful enough for you pales in comparison to what that dual amp can provide.

Anyway. If you are happy, then just rock what you got. No sense spending money on something that will just give you more output. Throwing more power to those speakers (watts) is just going to yield more output (decibels).


By the way, good luck in your schooling. My wife s getting her doctorate and I see all the work it takes. You have my condolences on giving up your life.biggrin.gif

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post #10 of 11 Old 07-11-2013, 11:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Okay, so I still have the questiono about teh two dongle RCA connectors hang'n off the back of the my HU. I emailed Pioneer USA and this was our conversation, which honestly does NOT answer my question about "Front Output".

customer.support@pioneerservice.com

Jun 21

to me
Thank you for contacting Pioneer Electronics (USA) Inc.

The DEH-P7400MP does not have a built in amplifier for a subwoofer.

It offers an RCA output that can be connected to an amplifier.

Sincerely,


Rocky
Customer Service Representative


Jun 21

to customer.support.
Thank you Rocky, I appreciate it. So, now that I know what the two recessed RCA's are for, what are the two on teh dongle for? There is an OEM tag on them that states: "FRONT OUTPUT". For what? I don't think they're for front speakers, as there are cables for those in the bundle that connects with the block connector, and have been used for about 10 years now in this truck. the other info on that tag reads: CRW1296-A/N. and something in Japanese on top of the tag as well.

Thank you for any continued assistance with this headunit. I like it a lot and want to start using what else it can do....after 10 years of basic use I'm finally exploring it's features. wink.gif

Thanks again,
Chuck
customer.support@pioneerservice.com

Jun 21

to me
Thank you for contacting Pioneer Electronics (USA) Inc.
They too are used to connect an amplifier.
There are people that want a lot of sound in their car. They use amplifiers for all their speakers.

So, all four RCA's on this HU are to go to amp connections? I suppose they ran the dongle ones perhaps due to lack of real estate on the back for another recessed pair....?
Thanks for any insightful help with this stuff. I still haven't buttoned up the dash back to normal until I am sure I don't need access again for a while. smile.gif
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post #11 of 11 Old 07-12-2013, 07:11 PM
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According to pages 51 & 52 of the manual, the dongle RCA connectors are the front RCA outputs. The two that are in the back of the deck, are the non fading or subwoofer selectable RCA outputs.

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