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post #1 of 6 Old 06-20-2013, 08:31 AM - Thread Starter
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PLEASE DISREGARD WHAT WAS IN THIS POST EARLIER.

http://janesville.craigslist.org/for/3833430415.html

I am currently about to buy this setup. I have heard it and I know the amp with the setup is only turned up about half way and it rattles more than anything I've ever heard. (Never really heard loud loud subwoofers)

My question is, is this setup worth 300$? I understand that there is a risk of buying things over the internet with people, but I really like these subwoofers.

THANKS IN ADVANCED
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post #2 of 6 Old 06-21-2013, 08:58 AM
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The type R subs are really nice. These look like an older version v1 or v2. They will get plenty loud. especially in the right enclosure.

The subs usually are usually 140-240 depending on where you buy them

http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SWR-12D4-Type-R-Subwoofer-4-ohm/dp/B007XW2WTK

So getting a pair, with enclosure and a cheap amp for 300 is not terrible.

I have seen 1 Crunch amp that was made to maybe actually put out 3kw but it has been quite a while.

See if it has fuses on the amp. Add up their rating and multiply by 12.5 and then by 0.80. This will tell you a ballpark figure on what that amp will actually put out max all channels driven continuous.

Anyway, it's a decent deal for the 300. I would upgrade the amp down the road. sell off the current amp to a highschool kid looking for his first boom system after showing him what yours does. put that money toward a better sub amp. but that is me...biggrin.gif

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post #3 of 6 Old 06-21-2013, 10:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Cub, you have no idea how much help you've been to me the past couple of months. You've even spoke with me over the phone in an effort to help me understand more.

I purchased the system and Oh. My. God. is it loud. I just don't want to roast the subwoofers like I have in the past. Now I noticed that the amp does get pretty hot if I crank it up and blast some heavy bass for a good 15 - 20 minutes. Do amp usually go into protect mode when they get to hot or should I install a few PC fans to cool the thing down a bit? I noticed that last night and the amp would shut off after playing for about 10 minutes, in the end it was a ground problem. (Me and always having these problems with the damn ground.

Now, the person that I bought this car from had all the wires hooked up already and the fuse is located where the subs are and not at the battery. Can this seriously harm anything on my car? I have heard that it could melt/explode your battery if the fuse isn't closer to the battery.

Another thing I was wondering. I still have no idea how to control the LPF and the Subsonic filter. These are seriously over my head and I have never been able to tell where to put them, so I have them both very low at the moment. Could having them off or low harm my subwoofers?

The amp has four 30 watt fuses and after the calculation it comes out to 1200 Watts. Do you by any chance know the RMS off the top of your head for these subwoofers? I plan on rewiring EVERYTHING tomorrow in an effort to make sure things are right with the subwoofers and such. (No tears or rips).

Also, this amp was supposed to come with a Bass Control Knob, but he said he forgot it. What knob would I be able to purchase if I can't get the knob that comes with the amp?


Thanks again Cub, you have taught me more than 95% of the people I've spoke with about subs.
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post #4 of 6 Old 06-21-2013, 12:55 PM
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model number of the amplifier?

Maxxsonics is the owner of Crunch. Along with Hifonics and MB Quart to name a couple. do a search on their site with your amp model info.

If you get me the amp info I can search and probably find you something.

I will be honest here, I dislike the remote gain control. The gain is often incorrectly thought of as a volume knob. "got the gain set at 1/2 way and still pounding the car!!!" is what I often hear. The gain is used to match the output with what the headunit is sending.

The amplifier can only put out a finite amount of wattage. Turning up the gain only means you hit that wall (max output) faster. Then distortion goes up clipping can occur etc. And then if you are using the loudness button and or bass boost!!! it happens even faster. my point is, nothing good can come from them. if you set your system up correct, you don't need it. If you have sub level control at the head unit, you really don't need it.

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post #5 of 6 Old 06-21-2013, 02:41 PM - Thread Starter
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PZA 2000.1 is the model number on the amp. I'll look more on the amp when I start rewiring everything later tonight.

The reason I wanted the remote bass control knob was because it's seriously annoying to have to click 4 times and move up twice to get to subwoofer level. I like to change my sub woofer level often, like when I pull up to a stop light with a 90 year old in a Cadillac. I mean, they're already deaf. xD

I would be setting the amp and the stereo deck at what I need to so when I turn the bass knob to max, it would hit only as high as I would want it to, or am I completely wrong on this? Like, if I have the gain knob on the amp turned all the way down and the subwoofer control on my stereo deck at -15 (Lowest) would me turning the bass control knob all the way up potentially harm my speakers? I've heard of people doing this so there is no possible way that a friend jumps into your car and cranks the stereo all the way up and blow the snot outta your sub woofers, so I actually have a control over it. I do understand that the bass control knob is nothing more than a easier GAIN knob closer to your, and I know I need to use it with caution.

So far, I have the bass boost and loudness on my stereo deck to off and it is 100% turned down on my amp. I have the low pass all the way up (Seems it doesn't pound at all with it anywhere else) and the Gain level at about 1/4th of the way up. The reason I want this bass control knob is because I tend to turn the subwoofer level on my stereo deck up to +15 since I have the GAIN level on the amp so low. If I wanted the GAIN half way, I'd have to set the sub woofer level on my head unit to 0, and it sounds horrible unless I use the Head Unit as a subwoofer controller and keep my amp down low.

Is it just me, or are these sub woofers extremely hard to hear distortion on. I mean, I've cranked it up to nearly max and it just sounds muffled, but no distrortion. Now I just burped it for about 2 seconds with this on to make sure not to cause any harm to the subwoofers or amp, but it's still very hard to notice.


Another question I had was, will these subwoofers sound better in a bigger box that is enclosed? I have one at my house that I have been waiting to buy Dreadnauts for, but since I now have these, maybe it will sound louder. I know putting sub woofers into a box that they are not supposed to be in can damage the subs, but I don't want to do that. Don't get me wrong, these subs are crazy loud (lol @ my knowledge of max 125 DBs) but no harm in getting them louder. You know how that feels Cubs, xD
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post #6 of 6 Old 06-21-2013, 11:26 PM
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http://crunchusa.net/manuals/old/CrunchPowerZonePZAAmplifierManual.pdf

Realistically if the amp is class d, I would expect that it puts out 1200 watts continuous. With possible peaks to 2k at a one ohm load.

Our ears are much less sensitive to distortion at sub woofer bass frequencies.and if you are unfamiliar with really clean low distortion subs... You might not know what to listen for. If memory serves the type r subs have shorting rings to help keep inductance based distortion lower.

Gonna hit the sleepy time. Type tomorrow.

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