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post #1 of 25 Old 05-04-2014, 05:03 PM - Thread Starter
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I want a system that you can feel in your chest and perhaps change your heart. But i don't want to have to blast the hight ends like crazy in order to feel it, yes i plan on blasting it but I want a system with a lot of sensation with not too many db. This would be for my 1999 ford mustang.

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post #2 of 25 Old 05-05-2014, 08:18 AM
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Some contradictions but Its possible to work through.

You did not mention a budget. That would be helpful.

To do all you want requires subwoofers (changing your heart) and midbass drivers that can keep up with the subwoofers (slam in the chest feel). Hard to do without to many db's.

Per Crutchfield http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Car/outfitmycar/car.aspx?g=400
Your doors have factory 6X8 speakers in them.
It mentions kickpanels but and it would be fantastic, I have never seen a car have front door speakers AND kickpanel speakers.
rear deck 6X8 speakers.

A decent sub in a ported enclosure to pressurize the car and change your heart. I am a fan of the bigger is better club (yeah that is what she said... sorry had to say that) in subwoofers if you have the space. Go at least a 12". Can recommend some good brands and possible deals online. Once I know a budget.

The midbass slam is the hard part just due to the natural acoustics in a vehicle. There is usually a suck out 160-320 hertz ish that naturally occurs. Once again, I subscribe to getting the biggest midbass driver in as possible. I rock 8" midbass in my doors. It required me to make adapters but the results were fantastic.

So, IF you can fit something in the kickpanels, fit a good 6 1/2 woofer in there and put a 5 1/4 or a good 6X8 if you can find one in the doors. Don't worry about the rear speakers. heck, remove them once you get your sub/s. get a solid amplifier to power the speakers in the doors and subs and enjoy your stereo.

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post #3 of 25 Old 05-14-2014, 11:30 AM
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Not quite as dramatic as the OP, but I'm in this boat too and would love some guidance. I know my home theater pretty well, but am absolutely lost when it comes to car audio. I have a 2012 dodge challenger sxt, and would like to upgrade but don't even know a budget for a "worthy" upgrade. I'm guessing I could get something decent for around $600 - $750? Here's what I was thinking:

 

- head unit - i'd need a double din and have seen some nice pioneers, jvcs, etc on sale or amazon for about $100....have no need for nav, dvd, etc.

- front speakers

- rear speakers (necessary?)

- 1 sub

- amp

- someone with a good reputation or a good cheap shop with a reputation to install it.....I'd bring all components, but they'd need to install, wire, etc.....i'm guessing this alone would be a few hundred dollars.

 

Any help is appreciated.

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post #4 of 25 Old 05-15-2014, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SydBarrett View Post

Not quite as dramatic as the OP, but I'm in this boat too and would love some guidance. I know my home theater pretty well, but am absolutely lost when it comes to car audio. I have a 2012 dodge challenger sxt, and would like to upgrade but don't even know a budget for a "worthy" upgrade. I'm guessing I could get something decent for around $600 - $750? Here's what I was thinking:

- head unit - i'd need a double din and have seen some nice pioneers, jvcs, etc on sale or amazon for about $100....have no need for nav, dvd, etc.
- front speakers
- rear speakers (necessary?)
- 1 sub
- amp
- someone with a good reputation or a good cheap shop with a reputation to install it.....I'd bring all components, but they'd need to install, wire, etc.....i'm guessing this alone would be a few hundred dollars.

Any help is appreciated.

This stuff can add up quick, but $750 is possible. Personally, I like a good front stage and don’t run rear speakers, even in a crew cab truck.

I’m biased towards Pioneer for head units, and they also make good component sets. This one is very good for the money:
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-D1720C-6-75-Inch-280-Watt-Speaker/dp/B0015NRQ5S/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1400192212&sr=1-3&keywords=pioneer+prs

For cheap and decent head unit:
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-FH-X700BT-Receiver-Bluetooth-Pandora/dp/B0091UW7F6/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1400192507&sr=1-5&keywords=pioneer+double+din

As for amps, I’d recommend separate amps for subwoofer(s) and front door speakers, but you could get away with a single 4-channel amp. From there it’s dependent on what sub you want to go with. 75w per side will drive those components nicely. If you have room to go with a ported sub setup then you won’t need near as many watts driving the sub as you would with a sealed setup.

Keep in mind the adapters needed for install. I’m not all familiar with Dodge, but on my GM I need a PAC audio adapter (I think Metra also has one) that allows use of OnStar and retains warning and signal chimes. A separate adapter is also needed for interfacing the OEM steering wheel controls with the aftermarket head unit. You may also need usb adapters/cables if you have a factory usb connection for an ipod or similar. Crutchfield is usually the best resource for figuring out which adapters are needed. You can also check here:
http://www.pac-audio.com/productSearch.aspx?Make=Dodge&MakeId=7&Model=Challenger&ModelId=1130&Year=2012&YearId=33

I know you said the shop is providing the wire and adapters, but you could possibly save some cash by using Amazon instead.

Also keep in mind that cables and wire can drive the cost up quickly. Knukonceptz has some good RCAs and amp kits. Whether you want to go with OFC wire or CCA depends on your budget as well. You may also want to look into sound deadening at least the front doors and I’m guessing trunk area.
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post #5 of 25 Old 05-16-2014, 06:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Radio81 View Post


This stuff can add up quick, but $750 is possible. Personally, I like a good front stage and don’t run rear speakers, even in a crew cab truck.

I’m biased towards Pioneer for head units, and they also make good component sets. This one is very good for the money:
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-D1720C-6-75-Inch-280-Watt-Speaker/dp/B0015NRQ5S/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1400192212&sr=1-3&keywords=pioneer+prs

For cheap and decent head unit:
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-FH-X700BT-Receiver-Bluetooth-Pandora/dp/B0091UW7F6/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1400192507&sr=1-5&keywords=pioneer+double+din

As for amps, I’d recommend separate amps for subwoofer(s) and front door speakers, but you could get away with a single 4-channel amp. From there it’s dependent on what sub you want to go with. 75w per side will drive those components nicely. If you have room to go with a ported sub setup then you won’t need near as many watts driving the sub as you would with a sealed setup.

Keep in mind the adapters needed for install. I’m not all familiar with Dodge, but on my GM I need a PAC audio adapter (I think Metra also has one) that allows use of OnStar and retains warning and signal chimes. A separate adapter is also needed for interfacing the OEM steering wheel controls with the aftermarket head unit. You may also need usb adapters/cables if you have a factory usb connection for an ipod or similar. Crutchfield is usually the best resource for figuring out which adapters are needed. You can also check here:
http://www.pac-audio.com/productSearch.aspx?Make=Dodge&MakeId=7&Model=Challenger&ModelId=1130&Year=2012&YearId=33

I know you said the shop is providing the wire and adapters, but you could possibly save some cash by using Amazon instead.

Also keep in mind that cables and wire can drive the cost up quickly. Knukonceptz has some good RCAs and amp kits. Whether you want to go with OFC wire or CCA depends on your budget as well. You may also want to look into sound deadening at least the front doors and I’m guessing trunk area.

 

All good info and, yes, that was actually the pioneer head unit I was looking at - I've seen it around $110 or lower as well.

 

I guess my big thing is even with all of the above, I'm still really confused. I almost need someone to say "here, get this head unit, these front and back speakers, this subwoofer, this amp and these cables". Probably my biggest thing too is who is going to install it? I'm tempted to just go to Best Buy to get that done - I know I can bring my components to them as well rather than buying them there as I did that with my last head unit on my last car.

 

Any guidance on specific products would be really helpful. Thanks guys.

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post #6 of 25 Old 05-16-2014, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SydBarrett View Post

All good info and, yes, that was actually the pioneer head unit I was looking at - I've seen it around $110 or lower as well.

I guess my big thing is even with all of the above, I'm still really confused. I almost need someone to say "here, get this head unit, these front and back speakers, this subwoofer, this amp and these cables". Probably my biggest thing too is who is going to install it? I'm tempted to just go to Best Buy to get that done - I know I can bring my components to them as well rather than buying them there as I did that with my last head unit on my last car.

Any guidance on specific products would be really helpful. Thanks guys.

OK…so get the head unit and component speakers I linked you to earlier.

This subwoofer:
http://www.emfcaraudio.com/sundown-audio-e12-v2-dual-4/

You’ll need to wire the subwoofer voice coils for a 2-ohm load as shown here:
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/woofer_wizard.asp?submitted=true&woofer_qty=1&woofer_imp=4

And this 5-channel amp will power both the components and subwoofer. You’ll need to use the amp in 3-channel mode to get the most out of it.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_109GTO5E/JBL-GTO-5EZ.html?tp=35808

I figure that roughly puts you around $750-$800. That’s without a box for the subwoofer, amp install kit, head unit adapters, and dash kit.

Like home audio, there’s a million combinations you can go with for car audio. The products I linked are not junk, and I would happily use any of these products in my own vehicle.

You may want to call local places in your area. Some around here offer free installation with certain equipment (when purchased from said retailer). It will give you a better idea of the cost savings of buying online compared to buying locally. You may find with free installation that some products end up cheaper when bought local. Kinda like how crutchfield throws in a dash kit, and certain adapters for free with a head unit purchase. –Sometimes, the minimal added cost and warranty is worth it for me to buy from an authorized dealer like crutchfield instead of amazon.

Websites to check out are woofersetc.com, emfcaraudio.com, parts-express.com, and knukonceptz.com.
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post #7 of 25 Old 05-16-2014, 11:03 PM
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I've had 4 of that body design Mustangs (1999 GT, 2004 GT, 2x2004 Cobras, still have both Cobras) and putting systems in those cars was a rough experience.

The doors are too narrow to support certain speaker brands (without modifcation anyway). I think i put BA SL60's in the doors and SL80s in the back. I had tried to get a better SQ and SPL speaker in there, but it didn't fit.

I must say i am very pleased with the SL60s that are in there though and have lasted close to 10 years. (knock on wood).

I am using Alpine 310 in one and a 106 in the other.

Not looking forward to replacing them, because current double din head units just sit too deep and down compared to the flip out screens. Just my 2 cents.

EDIT: for bass i have a JL Stealthbox in each one, but they dont' make those anymore. but I'm sure someone can make something, I just wanted a very clean factory look.

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post #8 of 25 Old 05-17-2014, 05:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radio81 View Post

OK…so get the head unit and component speakers I linked you to earlier.

This subwoofer:
http://www.emfcaraudio.com/sundown-audio-e12-v2-dual-4/

You’ll need to wire the subwoofer voice coils for a 2-ohm load as shown here:
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/woofer_wizard.asp?submitted=true&woofer_qty=1&woofer_imp=4

And this 5-channel amp will power both the components and subwoofer. You’ll need to use the amp in 3-channel mode to get the most out of it.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_109GTO5E/JBL-GTO-5EZ.html?tp=35808

I figure that roughly puts you around $750-$800. That’s without a box for the subwoofer, amp install kit, head unit adapters, and dash kit.

Like home audio, there’s a million combinations you can go with for car audio. The products I linked are not junk, and I would happily use any of these products in my own vehicle.

You may want to call local places in your area. Some around here offer free installation with certain equipment (when purchased from said retailer). It will give you a better idea of the cost savings of buying online compared to buying locally. You may find with free installation that some products end up cheaper when bought local. Kinda like how crutchfield throws in a dash kit, and certain adapters for free with a head unit purchase. –Sometimes, the minimal added cost and warranty is worth it for me to buy from an authorized dealer like crutchfield instead of amazon.

Websites to check out are woofersetc.com, emfcaraudio.com, parts-express.com, and knukonceptz.com.



Thanks radio! This is all really good info. A few more quick questions then i think im set.

- could i save about 200 on a 5 channel amp and go with precision audio or kenwood?
- for head unit, theres a similar model of pioneer thats $20 less.....any big differences?
- do i have to worry about 2v or 4v on my preouts?
- ive read sound deadenindg in doors is pretty important
- would i do components in front and back or components in front and coaxials in back?......challengers also have cutouts already for 3 3.5" dash speakers in the front, as well as a 8" subwoofer in between the rear speakers in the deck.....what do u think about those options?
- any tuning tips?
- if i dont get a custom box for sub or go with the above option of putting it in deck, is there a solid 8 or 10" already assembled box and sub i could go with?
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post #9 of 25 Old 05-18-2014, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by SydBarrett View Post

Thanks radio! This is all really good info. A few more quick questions then i think im set.

- could i save about 200 on a 5 channel amp and go with precision audio or kenwood?
- for head unit, theres a similar model of pioneer thats $20 less.....any big differences?
- do i have to worry about 2v or 4v on my preouts?
- ive read sound deadenindg in doors is pretty important
- would i do components in front and back or components in front and coaxials in back?......challengers also have cutouts already for 3 3.5" dash speakers in the front, as well as a 8" subwoofer in between the rear speakers in the deck.....what do u think about those options?
- any tuning tips?
- if i dont get a custom box for sub or go with the above option of putting it in deck, is there a solid 8 or 10" already assembled box and sub i could go with?

-Yes, you could save a bit going with a different brand, or even separate amps for subwoofer and door speakers. Just make sure the RMS output is equal or exceeds the RMS rating of the speakers you're trying to drive, and at the right ohm load.
-The lesser Pioneer does not have built-in bluetooth. No other differences that I can tell.
-Nothing to worry about there
-Yes, it's usually pretty simple to do at the very least something like dynamat or similar. There are many brands to choose from. Take a look here: http://www.raamaudio.com/
-Not sure on that one. I'm not sure about dash speakers. I think a 2-way passive coaxial or component setup in the front doors would be just fine. You could look into replacing the outer two 3.5" speakers on the dash, and also run coaxials in the front doors, though you would need a way of setting the crossover points separately....the 3.5" dash speakers won't play as low as say a 6.5" door speaker. Edit...it looks like your doors come with 6"x9" speakers, so you'll need a baffle to make the 6.5" speakers work. You can run 6x9s, but I favor a round speaker. Either is fine though.
-This is most likely the cleanest install option, however it is pricey: http://www.jlaudio.com/car-audio-stealthbox-dodge-challenger.

Before buying a new head unit and adapters, you may want to look into something like a JL CleanSweep: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_136441DSP/JL-Audio-CL441dsp-CleanSweep.html#overview-tab
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post #10 of 25 Old 05-19-2014, 09:16 AM
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Ok, Radio, here's my final thoughts/setup/questions. Let me know what you think and thank you for all the help!

 

- head unit: love the price point of the pioneer fhx500ui, but it only has 2 sets of preouts.......im looking at the kenwood dpx300u for a few dollars more because it has 3 sets - if im hooking up a 5 channel amp (see below), won't i need 1 set for the dash speakers, 1 set for the door speakers and 1 set for the sub? the rear speakers can just be run off the head unit....i will not be keeping my steering wheel controls (extra $$ for kit)

 

- amp: 5-channel, either precision power p900.5, precision power i640.5 or kenwood kac 7005ps....all should match well with the 4 ohm speakers i list below as well as the sub.....question - max rms for the 3.5" speakers is only like 40 rms.....will that be a problem if the amp is 70 or even 100 rms or should i look for something (like the kenwood) that's around 40 rms?

 

- speakers: polk db 351 for dash, polk db 691 for doors and polk db 651 for rears....might go to the JBL GO line here if the $$ are significantly less.......or maybe even pioneer's lower to mid lineup

 

- subs: (2) image dynamics 8" regular subs, dual-voice, and will wire them for the 4ohms......quick question though that might have me change to wiring them to 2 ohm or even to Sundown depending on my amp choice - can i run 4 ohm speakers and then a 2 ohm sub on the same 5 channel amp? i've read you can.......i'll also get a custom box from ebay made for dodge challengers for this for my rear trunk

 

- installation - any idea how much this all might cost to install? i'm thinking, with wires, etc., $400 or so

 

- challengers have a roughly 150-160 amp alternator......any problems running either a 4 ohm or 2 ohm setup with the above?

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post #11 of 25 Old 05-19-2014, 01:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SydBarrett View Post

Ok, Radio, here's my final thoughts/setup/questions. Let me know what you think and thank you for all the help!

- head unit: love the price point of the pioneer fhx500ui, but it only has 2 sets of preouts.......im looking at the kenwood dpx300u for a few dollars more because it has 3 sets - if im hooking up a 5 channel amp (see below), won't i need 1 set for the dash speakers, 1 set for the door speakers and 1 set for the sub? the rear speakers can just be run off the head unit....i will not be keeping my steering wheel controls (extra $$ for kit) The extra set of RCA (sub) usually offer you some form of level control that is easy to access via volume knob/button.

- amp: 5-channel, either precision power p900.5, precision power i640.5 or kenwood kac 7005ps....all should match well with the 4 ohm speakers i list below as well as the sub.....question - max rms for the 3.5" speakers is only like 40 rms.....will that be a problem if the amp is 70 or even 100 rms or should i look for something (like the kenwood) that's around 40 rms? My suggestion would be to run the amp on the door and rear speakers. Use the head units power to run the small dash speakers. Spend the 15 or so dollars on bass blockers for the dash speakers (6db/oct passive crossovers. It's just a capacitor you have wired in line to the speaker). You probably can get them at wherever you get the system installed.

- speakers: polk db 351 for dash, polk db 691 for doors and polk db 651 for rears....might go to the JBL GO line here if the $$ are significantly less.......or maybe even pioneer's lower to mid lineup Spend the money on the door speakers. Can go cheap on the dash and rear 6X9's

- subs: (2) image dynamics 8" regular subs, dual-voice, and will wire them for the 4ohms......quick question though that might have me change to wiring them to 2 ohm or even to Sundown depending on my amp choice - can i run 4 ohm speakers and then a 2 ohm sub on the same 5 channel amp? i've read you can.......i'll also get a custom box from ebay made for dodge challengers for this for my rear trunk
Look at the bstock items at the EMF site. They are cosmetic Blems. Just bought a ten inch sub for daughter and another 12" sub to play around with in the garage.
http://www.emfcaraudio.com/sundown-audio-e12-d4-b-stock/
Go as big as you can that you are willing to give space for the enclosure. I suggest a 12". 15 if you are feeling froggy!

You can run all sorts of impedance configuration on the amp. What you liksted will work fine.



- installation - any idea how much this all might cost to install? i'm thinking, with wires, etc., $400 or so

- challengers have a roughly 150-160 amp alternator......any problems running either a 4 ohm or 2 ohm setup with the above? You will be fine. I run 2200 watts on my stock toyota alternator (80 amp) with upgraded battery. granted I don't listen to a ton of bass heavy music but it does fine.

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post #12 of 25 Old 05-19-2014, 03:16 PM
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Thanks for jumping in, Cub, really appreciate it.

 

Hhmmm, if the 3rd preout is only level control, can i skip to save $25 or would you recommend getting?

 

Good call on running the dash off the heat unit instead of rears.

 

Some great deals at EMF, but i'm not looking to drive anywhere close to those RMS specs! I think 2 8"s at 300-350 total or maybe 2 10" or 12" at 500-600 total would be perfect. If i go the latter, however, i'll probably have to drop down in sub quality to like a Rockford, Kicker or Infinity or something.

 

Good news on the alternator.....i mean, max my system will be running is 900w and i'm thinking more 700-900w. I shouldn't even need a battery upgrade or anything either, right?

 

Now i need to find a solid installer in Atlanta.

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post #13 of 25 Old 05-19-2014, 04:24 PM
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Agree with cubdenno, except that I don't think amping rears is necessary.

You don't need the third set of preouts if all you're amping is a pair of door speakers and a subwoofer. If you're set on amping the rears then I'd upgrade to a head unit with front, rear, and subwoofer preouts.

I would do the Big 3 Upgrade before replacing the battery. EMF sells kits for that as well, but I think you'll be fine with 150+ amps.
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post #14 of 25 Old 05-19-2014, 08:23 PM
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Not being snarky. Just wanted to make that clear.

What is RMS? Look it up and then explain how it applies to audio. Amp and speakers. smile.gif

As far as power is concerned, there are two ways to destroy a speaker. Thermal and mechanical.

Mechanical is simple. You either break it/damage it or you overdrive it past it's mechanical limits. Example with enough power and an improperly designed ported enclosure you play frequencies below tuning with no high pass filter/subsonic crossover causing over excursion. Or your amp flows DC into the speaker causing one way max excursion. Either way the speaker gets damaged

Thermal is also simple. Simply to much heat due to the amount of current going through the coil. To much heat melts something.

That said, don't worry about the minimum ratings of the sub. Especially if you find a deal. That applies to any deal. I recommend the 12 because it will play as loud or louder on same power than a pair of 8's.. Plus the E series is the sundown low power line. Oh they can take the power. Just don't require it.

Radio81, I recommend the big 2 if it is even needed. Upgrade the negative battery to chassis cable or rather add a secondary. Upgrade/add a secondary alternator case to chassis negative cable if you want.

The factory positive alt cable is going to be adequately sized for the alternator. His car should be new enough that corrosion of the connectors and termination points should not be an issue. Plus when you add/upgrade that cable, there should be a fuse added . Upgrading the cable "just cuz" doesn't gain you more amps. Remember the alt is a finite source of power. It has a max output. The rest of the required amperage comes from the battery. That is where a good run of large gauge wire is important. You size it to the current demand and the length of the cable run. Can direct to some easy calculators that will give you the size needed. Most likely a four gauge will suffice...

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post #15 of 25 Old 05-19-2014, 08:26 PM
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Oh yeah, I suggested a mping rears due to the 5 channel amp. That was all.

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post #16 of 25 Old 05-20-2014, 01:52 PM
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Hard to amp the rears with no available head unit preouts for them. The rear preouts are being used for the subwoofer. You’re better off not buying rear speakers and using that cash for a better head unit and/or front stage. It also leaves more budget for deadener. And leaving the JBL amp I suggested in 3-channel mode by not amping the rears leaves more power for the front stage. That’s why I suggested that particular 5-channel amp. I suppose if you like rear fill then go ahead and replace the rear speakers and amp them, though I don’t see room in the budget for better head unit and rear speakers. Not considering budget, I’d be recommending a whole different chain of products, but that would be unrealistic.

Sure, matching RMS isn’t a big deal, all I’m saying is I wouldn’t even bother trying to move any sundown subwoofer with say 200w. They’re not very efficient, and I don’t see the point of going through any of this effort just to under power a sub. Will it work? Sure it will. Will it be loud enough? -That depends on what enclosure is used and who is listening. And since nothing has been bought I’d go with a different sub if that were the case.

The products I linked are what I would run in a 2-way + subwoofer setup at the desired budget. Door speakers, subwoofer, common amp. Simple. If a more complex setup is desired or the upper threshold of the budget has expanded, then I would definitely start with a better head unit.

Syd, I think this thread should give you an idea of the different directions you can go since you have many placement options for speakers. It’s your choice on how to proceed, and I don’t think you’ll be disappointed with any of the options mentioned.
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post #17 of 25 Old 05-20-2014, 02:09 PM
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Ok, just a quick question Radio as i think im a bit confused - wouldn't the kenwood dpx300u that i mention be ok since it has 3 preouts? one set for doors, one set for rears and one set for sub to connect to the amp........dash speakers would go off of the head unit. Or am i mistaking what this headunit's 3 sets of preouts are for?

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post #18 of 25 Old 05-21-2014, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by SydBarrett View Post

Ok, just a quick question Radio as i think im a bit confused - wouldn't the kenwood dpx300u that i mention be ok since it has 3 preouts? one set for doors, one set for rears and one set for sub to connect to the amp........dash speakers would go off of the head unit. Or am i mistaking what this headunit's 3 sets of preouts are for?

Naw you are correct. the Kenwood will be able to supply signal to front, rear and sub.


And I like what Radio is wanting to do by skipping the rear speakers initially. And powering the door speakers with the amp in 3 channel mode. My only fear is that budget speakers just tend to not take power well.



Radio,

My daughter runs an E10 on a 100 watt amp. Huge box though. Gets more than loud in a car. I never go by sensitivity specs listed for subs since they are 95% of the time taken at 1000 hertz which is absolutely useless in trying to determine what is going to happen in the subwoofer frequencies. In fact most low sensitivity number drivers are better at producing ,80 hertz than high sensitivity drivers. especially in small enclosures.

Anyway, philisophical differences. Glad someone else on here is giving advice. I love me some good stereo discussions.

And please never take my typed text as me being snarky. I hate to type and I sometimes gloss over politeness. way way better talking. biggrin.gif

Edit: went back andreread the sub you suggested... The E12!! Ha no differences. Great sub. I just recommended the b stock to save money.

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post #19 of 25 Old 05-21-2014, 08:55 AM
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The pre-outs are for the amps not really the speakers.  If you are using a 5 channel amp you should only need one set of pre-outs to go to the one amp.  All of your other wires to your speakers and sub(s) come off of the amp not the head unit.

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post #20 of 25 Old 05-21-2014, 09:19 AM
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Is the above true? That would be great and save me about $20 on the headunit. I think my understanding was amp to headunit for doors, amp to head unit for rears, and amp to head unit for sub (i.e. make all 3 connections so the amp and headunit are fully integrated)......then all the wires come from the amp.......if the above is true, then i definitely only need 2 sets of preouts.

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post #21 of 25 Old 05-21-2014, 09:25 AM
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1 five channel amp = (2) front speakers, (2) rear speakers, and (1) sub in a standard configuration.

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post #22 of 25 Old 05-21-2014, 09:35 AM
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Oh, for sure, i think there was some confusion though on how many connections i need from the amp to the headunit. Sounds like only 1, which would take 1 set of preouts on the head unit. If that's the case, i can go to the pioneer fhx500ui instead of the kenwood dpx300u as i was only considering the kenwood because it has 3 sets of preouts instead of pioneer's 2 sets. Is this how it works?

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post #23 of 25 Old 05-21-2014, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SydBarrett View Post

Oh, for sure, i think there was some confusion though on how many connections i need from the amp to the headunit. Sounds like only 1, which would take 1 set of preouts on the head unit. If that's the case, i can go to the pioneer fhx500ui instead of the kenwood dpx300u as i was only considering the kenwood because it has 3 sets of preouts instead of pioneer's 2 sets. Is this how it works?

It can if the amp allows for it. Some multi channel amps don't.

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post #24 of 25 Old 05-21-2014, 01:11 PM
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No worries, cub. I didn’t think you were being snarky.

Syd, you can certainly split the front inputs or the rear inputs at the amp should you choose to run the Pioneer head unit with only 2 preouts. However, you will either lose fading ability of the rear speakers, or you will lose head unit crossover and level controls of your sub (and also make your sub fading instead of non-fading) as well, depending on how you split the input signal. If either of those compromises are no big deal to you, then I'd say you're in the clear.

If you go with the Pioneer, I would suggest running (2) pairs of RCA cables and not just one. If you only want to run one cable, run a 4-channel RCA cable.
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post #25 of 25 Old 05-21-2014, 01:29 PM
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Syd, while I have no idea of your financial obligations and it is very easy to spend your money tongue.gif

I say with utmost confidence that buy the head unit with the 3 sets of outputs. That 20-30 bux you save you will miss. Just having some sub level control and fader capabilities comes in handy. I see a lot of kids nickle and dimethemselves after an install trying to get functionality they gave up to initially save a couple of bucks...


While I know you said you did not want to install your system, that is where you could save a dollar or two. Plus I have never had an issue having bestbuy run a power cable kit for people I have done installs for. Buy from Crutchfield and they send a great instruction packet. From the head unit to door speakers.

Anyway, my point is there is a way to save some money. That was all.

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