Official Sanyo FH1/ FH1A/ HD2000 owners thread - Page 16 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #451 of 592 Old 08-10-2010, 11:09 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Shadow_7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,311
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by fbueller View Post

Manual ISO, tripod, 1080p60. I keep autofocus on due to focus drift that occurs as the camera heats up (major design flaw, IMHO)

And a factor of physics. As things warm up, they get bigger. Amplified by the fact that the sensor is smaller than an inch and the lens(es) not much bigger than that either. So I don't think that it's unique in this respect. Except that it doesn't have a fan to maintain an ideal operating temperature. You could in theory lock focus AFTER it has warmed up and that should hold. Whether that's 5 minutes in or 45 minutes, who knows. Or you could externally regulate it with a fan. There should be an equilibrium point in there somewhere.
Shadow_7 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #452 of 592 Old 08-10-2010, 11:19 AM
Member
 
fbueller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 50
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I dunno, I've never seen a camera turn blurry with focus locked while filming a static location on a tripod after 5 minutes of video. That's a design flaw, not a physics issue.
fbueller is offline  
post #453 of 592 Old 08-10-2010, 12:58 PM
Member
 
lisame's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 26
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Any users of the Sanyo GH1/GH2? What is your experiance with this camcorder?
lisame is offline  
post #454 of 592 Old 08-10-2010, 01:19 PM
Member
 
fbueller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 50
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Both the GH1 and GH2 are 1080i/60, not 1080p/60. Crap.
fbueller is offline  
post #455 of 592 Old 08-11-2010, 02:35 AM
Member
 
lisame's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 26
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Thank you fbueller

The Panasonic HDC-SDX1 seems to be a replacement or a similar product to the FH1, but it does have optical stabilization.

In Germany it is for sale and costs around 400 euro
lisame is offline  
post #456 of 592 Old 08-11-2010, 08:55 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Shadow_7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,311
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by fbueller View Post

I dunno, I've never seen a camera turn blurry with focus locked while filming a static location on a tripod after 5 minutes of video. That's a design flaw, not a physics issue.

Well I've never encountered that issue myself. So it could just be his unit. And more of a dud than the a design issue. But I generally don't lock focus or shoot static scenes. I realize you have to for time lapse, but I just find it a little moot to be shooting video of a static image for 5+ minutes. That's not what this and many other camcorders were design for.

Now my unit gets blurry on one side when using it heavily(sharp on left, dull on right). 30+ minutes. But I've dropped mine at least twice on hard surfaces. And I've learned that resting the weight of my arm on the camcorder while on a tripod or monopod has a negative influence on the image quality. And I'm not sure if that's the physics of the camcorder, or a tendency of the video codec / encoder chip.
Shadow_7 is offline  
post #457 of 592 Old 08-11-2010, 10:19 AM
Newbie
 
B.A.T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I'm new to this so bear with me. In regards to the image shakiness that some people have with this camcorder will the stabilization feature in imovie fix this or am I missing something here?
B.A.T is offline  
post #458 of 592 Old 08-11-2010, 11:22 AM
Member
 
fbueller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 50
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shadow_7 View Post

Well I've never encountered that issue myself. So it could just be his unit. And more of a dud than the a design issue. But I generally don't lock focus or shoot static scenes. I realize you have to for time lapse, but I just find it a little moot to be shooting video of a static image for 5+ minutes. That's not what this and many other camcorders were design for.

Now my unit gets blurry on one side when using it heavily(sharp on left, dull on right). 30+ minutes. But I've dropped mine at least twice on hard surfaces. And I've learned that resting the weight of my arm on the camcorder while on a tripod or monopod has a negative influence on the image quality. And I'm not sure if that's the physics of the camcorder, or a tendency of the video codec / encoder chip.

It's on all FH1's, dunno about FH1A's though. Many people complaining about it, and I've had two units who both did this. Set it up one night pointing out your window for 10 minutes with manual focus set to where you want. By the time you stop the video, it'll have drifted.
fbueller is offline  
post #459 of 592 Old 08-11-2010, 01:07 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Shadow_7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,311
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T_Yv7aStFJc

Something I shot yesterday out the kitchen window. Subbing in the external audio from outside. 100F+ all week...

-----

There's a number of deshaker apps out there. You loose resolution though as they basically crop and scale the image to keep motion at a minimum. Not that big of a deal if 720p and DVD are your destinations. But if you want to keep 1080p quality, not going to happen.

-----

I've never had that focus issue. But I've never used my camcorder in that way. Manual focus? Or auto focus lock? Or does it matter?

Manual focus has some pretty big jumps in settings, enough to make it so no target can be put into focus without physically moving the camcorder to the focal point. Of course there's an easy solution. Don't use zoom, and use a wide angle lens. Problem solved. Focus so deep, even drift can't ruin it.

The problem I have had is that light sources in the shot will blur the content near them. Especially if the content is further away than the light. But that's with auto focus and affects the content, not the focus.

And a general blurriness on the right side of the content (but NOT the left) if recording for long durations at night. Although not much of an issue if you angle your orientation to the subject matter to compensate. But like I said, I've had at least two significant drops of said camcorder over the past year+ of use. And just recently did the firmware upgrade.
Shadow_7 is offline  
post #460 of 592 Old 08-14-2010, 07:17 AM
Member
 
strudel.chris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Rochester MN
Posts: 174
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by fbueller View Post

It's on all FH1's, dunno about FH1A's though. Many people complaining about it, and I've had two units who both did this. Set it up one night pointing out your window for 10 minutes with manual focus set to where you want. By the time you stop the video, it'll have drifted.

I recently picked up a FH1A. I haven't done a lot of shooting with it yet, mostly short clips.

I've been browsing a couple of different forums to see other peoples experiences with these cameras. I wanted to find tips/tricks/hints, that sort of thing.

Well, I read about fbueller's manual focus drift issue, and I decided to test it with my FH1A. I set it up on a kitchen counter on a mini tripod.
I aimed the FH1A out a window, and focused (manually, of course) on some leaves on a tree in our front yard. (A mid-zoom level)
I shot a 15 minute clip.

The files are transferring off of the camera now.
(I want to be able to scrub back and forth with a video editing program to quickly see if the focus drifts at all.)

I'll report back with my findings.

Always tweaking, modifying and re-arranging my electronics....
strudel.chris is offline  
post #461 of 592 Old 08-14-2010, 07:43 AM
Member
 
strudel.chris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Rochester MN
Posts: 174
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Well, I examined the video that I shot.
It doesn't look like my focus drifted at all.

As always, YMMV.....


So far, I'm happy with my FH1A.
I haven't discovered all of it's quirks yet, but it seems like a fun camera with a variety of shooting modes.
And it was quite inexpensive.

Always tweaking, modifying and re-arranging my electronics....
strudel.chris is offline  
post #462 of 592 Old 08-14-2010, 09:44 AM
Member
 
biomedtech's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 144
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by lisame View Post

Thank you fbueller

The Panasonic HDC-SDX1 seems to be a replacement or a similar product to the FH1, but it does have optical stabilization.

In Germany it is for sale and costs around 400 euro

I disagree. No 1080p mode at all, BUT I am intrigued about the integrated Skype. Who needs an iPhone 4, when you can jailbreak your iPhone 3, and be a mobil hot spot for your Panny anywhere, anytime.

Live walking video conference?That's location shooting!
biomedtech is offline  
post #463 of 592 Old 08-15-2010, 04:52 PM
Member
 
fbueller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 50
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by strudel.chris View Post

Well, I examined the video that I shot.
It doesn't look like my focus drifted at all.

As always, YMMV.....


So far, I'm happy with my FH1A.
I haven't discovered all of it's quirks yet, but it seems like a fun camera with a variety of shooting modes.
And it was quite inexpensive.

Did you do this at night or during the day? It seems more pronounced at night. Also, it's a coin flip scenario, it doesn't always happen...
fbueller is offline  
post #464 of 592 Old 08-16-2010, 07:17 AM
Newbie
 
B.A.T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
The FH1A has dropped down to $279 on Amazon. I just bit the bullet and bought mine. Can't wait to play with this.
B.A.T is offline  
post #465 of 592 Old 08-16-2010, 08:36 AM
Member
 
strudel.chris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Rochester MN
Posts: 174
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by fbueller View Post

Did you do this at night or during the day? It seems more pronounced at night. Also, it's a coin flip scenario, it doesn't always happen...

This was during the day.
I'd be happy to try a test tonight to see if it misbehaves with low light levels.

Always tweaking, modifying and re-arranging my electronics....
strudel.chris is offline  
post #466 of 592 Old 08-16-2010, 08:41 AM
Member
 
strudel.chris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Rochester MN
Posts: 174
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by B.A.T View Post

The FH1A has dropped down to $279 on Amazon. I just bit the bullet and bought mine. Can't wait to play with this.

Awww, shucks. I paid about $50 more 2 weeks ago.

Oh well... I'm still really happy with it.

And, it sure beats ordering it from Best Buy's online site...
*visits their website quick to check the current price*

Sanyo VPC-FH1ABK : $449.99
(!!!)
But it does have free shipping, heh.

Always tweaking, modifying and re-arranging my electronics....
strudel.chris is offline  
post #467 of 592 Old 08-16-2010, 11:22 AM
Member
 
fbueller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 50
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by strudel.chris View Post

This was during the day.
I'd be happy to try a test tonight to see if it misbehaves with low light levels.

Thanks, Chris. Point it at a far away scene, lock focus at infinity, and give it 10 minutes. Try again with manual focus set to appropriate levels, and then try another 10. That should root it out most times, at least on the FH1.
fbueller is offline  
post #468 of 592 Old 08-17-2010, 10:24 AM
Member
 
simpucker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Berlin, Germany
Posts: 77
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Okay I think I have a problem with my lens. HD2000 here.

Recently, I got a step-up converter + 52mm variable ND filter + 55mm lens hood.

Now here's the deal: With the lens hood attached, I am seeing severe vignetting on the left part of the screen. On the camera's LCD, I can actually see the inner part of lens hood in the upper and lower left corner.

The right corners feature a clear view with minor vignetting.

This appears in photo view mode, e.g. when the LCD shows what a still picture would look like (instead of video). This is the mode that uses the entire sensor.

The converter ring and ND filter seem to be installed correctly.

For reference, here is a photo I took:





And this is the lens hood:





The vignetting was to be expected. I am, however, shocked that it is not symmetric. In fact, the left part of the image shows much more of the lens hood. Could it be that some part of the lens got tilted towards the left?

Maybe someone can check their photos to see if they have the same problem. Maybe this is by design.

I did notice that especially at wide aperture / low f number I was getting terrible results when the focus was set beyond macro distance. The picture was blurred. To get sharp pictures with acceptable results, I had to use narrow apertures pretty much all the time. Even on tripods. Obviously, a wide aperture has a shallow DOF but if the focus is set to an object that is 3 meters away that object should be sharp. I did drop the camera before noticing any problems...
simpucker is offline  
post #469 of 592 Old 08-17-2010, 02:56 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Shadow_7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,311
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
That's not a type of lens hood that I'm familiar with. You might check to see if the step up ring is on right. Maybe NOT tighten down and it'll square up. Most of the lens hoods that I'm familiar with flare out to a square. And otherwise clamp onto the outside of the filter ring. Not that I've actually seen / used one yet. Just window shopping online.

Have you tried the firmware upgrade yet? That addresses some of the fuzzy at max zoom issues. Or appears to at first glance. Super marco focus is useful for close things. Standard focus for everything else. And spot is more useful than 9pt IMO. Otherwise there's not much control of focus modes while recording outside of focus lock. Which comes in handy if trying to get the lizard behind a bush. But of limited use.
Shadow_7 is offline  
post #470 of 592 Old 08-17-2010, 09:09 PM
Member
 
strudel.chris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Rochester MN
Posts: 174
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by fbueller View Post

Thanks, Chris. Point it at a far away scene, lock focus at infinity, and give it 10 minutes. Try again with manual focus set to appropriate levels, and then try another 10. That should root it out most times, at least on the FH1.

I got a chance to try another test.
These 2 videos were shot in low light conditions.

Well, no focus drift in either case.

And, if it is a temperature issue, as someone had suggested, the body of my FH1a did get fairly warm after the first 10 minute clip was finished.

Maybe this is a FH1 issue, versus the FH1A?

Always tweaking, modifying and re-arranging my electronics....
strudel.chris is offline  
post #471 of 592 Old 08-18-2010, 02:55 AM
Member
 
simpucker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Berlin, Germany
Posts: 77
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shadow_7 View Post

That's not a type of lens hood that I'm familiar with. You might check to see if the step up ring is on right. Maybe NOT tighten down and it'll square up. Most of the lens hoods that I'm familiar with flare out to a square. And otherwise clamp onto the outside of the filter ring. Not that I've actually seen / used one yet. Just window shopping online.

Have you tried the firmware upgrade yet? That addresses some of the fuzzy at max zoom issues. Or appears to at first glance. Super marco focus is useful for close things. Standard focus for everything else. And spot is more useful than 9pt IMO. Otherwise there's not much control of focus modes while recording outside of focus lock. Which comes in handy if trying to get the lizard behind a bush. But of limited use.

Thank you for your feedback.

Last week, I did use a tulip lens hood which is probably what you mean:

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Fi..._Lens_Hood.jpg

I was experiecing the same problem on the left part of the sensor.*

It might be that the step-up converter ring is the problem. I have another lens hood that can be attached directly to the converter (no ND filter in between). With that hood, I get the same results: The left part of the image shows the inside of the hood while the right part offers clear view.

So I narrowed it down to either the step-up converter, the lens ring, or the lens itself.

Can somebody help me out with a digital lens test map? I would like to detach the lens accessoires and test if the lens itself shows any signs of incorrect optical properties. Thanks!

*That aside, I decided to use a cylindrical lens hood. I need a perfectly round opening because the lens hood is attached to the ND filter. The ND filter is adjustable, meaning that I can effectively change the exposure by turning the filter (it is a 2-piece filter, the bottom part is tightly screwed to the camera, the upper part can cycle freely - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NrKrJ...eature=related). With a tulip lens hood attached, the light that hits the sensor depends on the angle of the hood's edges to the light source / sun. This leads to undesirable effects.
simpucker is offline  
post #472 of 592 Old 08-18-2010, 06:21 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Shadow_7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,311
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Are you using a wide angle lens or something? Are you sure it's a step up ring and not a step down ring? IMO the FH1's lens might be a little wide angle by default. 0.9x? But I've still got to fully extend my arms for the most part to have them make the shot. In either case, using a little bit of zoom should get rid of the vignette.

Tulip, so that's what those are called. I always called them the tele-tubbie lens thingy. You might give a matte box a try. You should have some play with the affected angle on some of those.
Shadow_7 is offline  
post #473 of 592 Old 08-18-2010, 10:47 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Shadow_7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,311
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
More hummingbird stuff. I so need mics with a lower noise floor spec.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2FToI872PY
Shadow_7 is offline  
post #474 of 592 Old 08-23-2010, 01:37 PM
Member
 
83trekker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 143
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Ok i have a bunch of video i want to down convert so I can make a dvd that friends and realitives can play. What would be the best free program to convert these? Thanks
83trekker is offline  
post #475 of 592 Old 08-24-2010, 02:05 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Shadow_7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,311
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a3nQgPAVvKI

My latest.

-----

I use ffmpeg + mpeg2enc for DVD generation. Scripted with a bash script for ease of use. ffmpeg has a windows version. Not sure of the mjpegtool stuff. ffmpeg can also output the codec and stuff and has (- target ntsc-dvd), but mpeg2enc seems better suited for dvdauthoring IMO. Or at least it's lack of development means that it wont break anytime soon. And it's kind of a nice encoder with the right magic words.
Shadow_7 is offline  
post #476 of 592 Old 08-25-2010, 01:36 PM
Member
 
83trekker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 143
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shadow_7 View Post

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a3nQgPAVvKI

My latest.

-----

I use ffmpeg + mpeg2enc for DVD generation. Scripted with a bash script for ease of use. ffmpeg has a windows version. Not sure of the mjpegtool stuff. ffmpeg can also output the codec and stuff and has (- target ntsc-dvd), but mpeg2enc seems better suited for dvdauthoring IMO. Or at least it's lack of development means that it wont break anytime soon. And it's kind of a nice encoder with the right magic words.

Wow that looks way to complicated for me, whats an easy way to this convert my Mpeg4 into ??? then i have have Pinacae movie maker(i think its pinacle or one of the main programs) to put it all togeather with. Thanks and sorry for me being dumb
83trekker is offline  
post #477 of 592 Old 08-25-2010, 03:25 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Shadow_7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,311
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by 83trekker View Post

Wow that looks way to complicated for me, whats an easy way to this convert my Mpeg4 into ??? then i have have Pinacae movie maker(i think its pinacle or one of the main programs) to put it all togeather with. Thanks and sorry for me being dumb

Not really once you have it setup and figured out. Hence a few scripts.

http://home.earthlink.net/~shadow_7/FH1toYT.sh

Which in linux once you have ffmpeg installed. And libx264. And lame. I just run a simple command.

$ sh FH1toYT.sh sany9999.mp4

After a while and a lot of cpu processing I have a scaled and converted file that uploads to youtube quite nicely. Included are optional 2nd and 3rd parms for start time and duration in a HH:MM:SS format. And other things to suit my needs.

Not quite the script I currently use as I've found that converting to raw first speeds up the process considerably. As long as you have 60GB of free space for 10 minutes or more of video temp files. Also with raw I can take chunks and cat them to a single feed file. And convert that file. Which makes it a bit complicated, but there's other tools. In linux you have Lives, KDENlive, Cinelerra, and other GUI options. I just find that without a beefy computer (currently on a 4yo laptop), that I don't have the patience to do and wait in realtime. With scripts I can just launch them and let them run low priority in the background. And even ^Z to pause processing, plus fg to start up again. If I want to watch syfy rewind without loosing everything I've done to date. Yes it can be complicated, but no it doesn't have to be. There are simple ways for simple folks, even with complex tools.
Shadow_7 is offline  
post #478 of 592 Old 08-25-2010, 03:47 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Shadow_7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,311
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
And install libfaad too I guess. Here's my DVD one of sorts. Which adds the need for mjpegtools and sox as well. And I guess sed and bash and whatever else for a *nix type system.

http://home.earthlink.net/~shadow_7/FH1toDVD.sh

$ sh FH1toDVD.sh sany9999.mp4

Once you're past the install steps, it doesn't get much simpler per say. Not to imply simple. I wrote the scripts because it became increasingly difficult to remember all of the right parameters. And I'd learn various tricks that make things better that I just didn't want to forget. Not for everyone, but an option.
Shadow_7 is offline  
post #479 of 592 Old 08-26-2010, 03:47 AM
Member
 
strudel.chris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Rochester MN
Posts: 174
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Try this program, if you're using Windows.
Avidemux
It's great for converting video from one format to another.
It has a few built in filters for adjusting frame rate, resolution, colors, brightness/contrast, that sort of thing.

It even has some presets for outputting to DVD and Ipods.
I *think* the Ipod preset would be youtube friendly.

It isn't really a program for non-linear editing, but rather working with whole clips.

Always tweaking, modifying and re-arranging my electronics....
strudel.chris is offline  
post #480 of 592 Old 08-27-2010, 03:08 PM
Newbie
 
TJ Tom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Just finished my homework about videocamera's and decided that out of all cameras with a price between 300 and 400 euro's the Sanyo FH1 is probably the best for all means. Simply put ofcourse.

Will be used for all sorts of stuff but mainly for filming casemods (computers) and drumvideo's in a low light environment.

However... Since the FH1 is a fairly "old" model I'm wondering if it's a smart choice to buy the FH1 now instead of waiting for it's succesor. I read somewhere that the succesor to the FH1 might come early 2011 (january?)

Or should I just go with the FH1 now?
TJ Tom is offline  
Reply Camcorders

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off