Canon HF M4xx Owner's Thread - Page 9 - AVS Forum
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post #241 of 260 Old 08-20-2012, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by synter View Post

I noticed this too. I'm doing basic shots on a tripod, and when I move the camera a bit, I see that slight re-settling going on. It's annoying for sure. I get it with both settings on the stabilization, normal and dynamic. I don't think there's anything we can do about it.

When you have the camcorder on a tripod, turn the stabilization OFF and that will go away.
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post #242 of 260 Old 08-21-2012, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by xfws View Post

When you have the camcorder on a tripod, turn the stabilization OFF and that will go away.
Yah, even says that in the manual smile.gif .
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post #243 of 260 Old 08-23-2012, 10:30 AM
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Manual? I don't need no stinkin' manual. It says to shut it off, but it doesn't say why, and my other 2 camcorders don't do this when on a tripod and their stabilizatiion turned on. But at least I know what the symptoms are...thanks.
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post #244 of 260 Old 08-28-2012, 03:20 PM
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I bought one of those cheap rectangular hoods and shot some testimonials while on the Mekong in Vietnam. I shot full Wide handheld and didn't notice it at the time however when I went to edit the footage I could see the blurred edges of the hood every time I moved the camera even the slightest amount. The hood is more like a 4:3 and shooting 16:9 with the Stabilization must have caused this. I was able to crop in editing however I tossed that 2 Dollar investment and am now using a Flower Hood.
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post #245 of 260 Old 08-29-2012, 09:51 PM
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I tossed my rectangular hood too. It was just too big. I am using a flower style, and it is smaller. But it still seems to stick out a bit in front of those small auto-focus sensors to the left of the lens. I don't know for sure if it is screwing up the focus. I'm shooting some basic training videos, and shooting a still scene of a machine, and noticed with the hood on, it was blurring the right side of the frame more than the left, and in the past, same scene, I never had that issue.

I checked, and regular auto focus was on, and iAF, was not. Where in the past, iAF was on. So I switched it to iAF and didn't notice it.

Does anyone know how to keep some manual settings active all the time?

I had to brighten up the exposure a full 1.0, and after a few minutes, when the screen saver kicked in, it would go back to the default. I had to reset it back to 1.0 several times during the day.

Annoying more than anything I guess.
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post #246 of 260 Old 10-22-2012, 03:34 PM
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Well, finally sent my camera in a week or two ago and just got it back late last week.

On the paperwork, the problem reported by user (me) was that there was power drain. The reported fix was that the main board was not functioning correctly and it was replaced. I got to play with the unit a little this weekend and it still has the same problem. So at this point, I'm guessing it's fine. This time, I saw that every 20 seconds, the battery/time remining dropped by 1 minute....so essentially it was reporting 3 minutes less after a 1 minute on my stopwatch.

However, I had 78 minutes left on my battery and I just left it on to record....it recorded something like 2 hours 20 minutes (about 140 minutes) even though intitially it showed less. So I'm gonna just assume this is normal and I should not worry about it.

Other things that's a little annoying is that it sometimes take time for the focus to become clear...like there is a lag. I have it set on portrait. Any suggestions? I have tried it on instant focus as well as normal....didn't seem to make much of a difference.
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post #247 of 260 Old 10-22-2012, 08:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsrblack View Post

Well, I ordered a couple of the high capacity wasabi batteries BP-827 and after testing it on my camera, I think I do indeed have some sort of weird battery drain...
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsrblack View Post

Well, finally sent my camera in a week or two ago and just got it back late last week.
On the paperwork, the problem reported by user (me) was that there was power drain. The reported fix was that the main board was not functioning correctly and it was replaced. I got to play with the unit a little this weekend and it still has the same problem. So at this point, I'm guessing it's fine. This time, I saw that every 20 seconds, the battery/time remining dropped by 1 minute....so essentially it was reporting 3 minutes less after a 1 minute on my stopwatch.
However, I had 78 minutes left on my battery and I just left it on to record....it recorded something like 2 hours 20 minutes (about 140 minutes) even though intitially it showed less. So I'm gonna just assume this is normal and I should not worry about it.
Other things that's a little annoying is that it sometimes take time for the focus to become clear...like there is a lag. I have it set on portrait. Any suggestions? I have tried it on instant focus as well as normal....didn't seem to make much of a difference.


You are using third-party batteries and there are no guarantees with these/they may or may not report the time left correctly.

If you use genuine Canon batteries you won't have this issue.
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post #248 of 260 Old 10-23-2012, 02:52 PM
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I get the same results in using the Canon BP-808 that came with the camera as well as a Canon BP-827 and both do the same thing.....I also have 2 of the Wasabi BP-827's as well. No matter what I put in there, the ticker counts down quicker than "real time". I just can't believe that all 4 of my batteries are bad, especially with the Canon BP-827 being the newest one.

So I take it you have tried both after-market as well as genuine Canon's and your result differs than mine?

If anyone gets the change, can you please check to see if yours does the same thing? Just turn on your camera, you don't have to record, just have the recorder on in standby/pause mode and watch the timer on the display. Let me know how many seconds it takes for the battery time to decrease by 1 minute.

Thanks!
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post #249 of 260 Old 10-23-2012, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsrblack View Post

I get the same results in using the Canon BP-808 that came with the camera as well as a Canon BP-827 and both do the same thing.....I also have 2 of the Wasabi BP-827's as well. No matter what I put in there, the ticker counts down quicker than "real time". I just can't believe that all 4 of my batteries are bad, especially with the Canon BP-827 being the newest one.
So I take it you have tried both after-market as well as genuine Canon's and your result differs than mine?
If anyone gets the change, can you please check to see if yours does the same thing? Just turn on your camera, you don't have to record, just have the recorder on in standby/pause mode and watch the timer on the display. Let me know how many seconds it takes for the battery time to decrease by 1 minute.
Thanks!



very interesting, i just did this test myself.

my Wasabi dropped a minute at varying lengths, as follows

52 sec
41 sec
30 sec
45 sec
26 sec
47 sec


my Canon original:

1 min 14 sec
1 min 14 sec
1 min 13 sec
1 min 14 sec
1 min 15 sec
1 min 10 sec


i bough the camcorder new in April, the wasabi in May.

both batteries have approx 5 charges each on them.

i tested the wasabi at full charge and the canon at half charge.
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post #250 of 260 Old 05-29-2013, 03:49 PM
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Hey guys,

Little late to the party but just bought an M40 for $200 on ebay. No acc, just battery, cam and charger. I was planning on buying WA converter and a 43 to 52 mm converter so I can use my Nikon camera filters. I will see how my battery is, and then get a Wasabi. I guess I do not need to get those hdmi cables etc. since I will simply copy off the USB.

Any updates on what else I need to get that will make me keep this for a while. Cannot keep upgrading my toys frown.gif

Thanks for the great info here.
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post #251 of 260 Old 05-29-2013, 04:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EnergyFan View Post

Hey guys,

Little late to the party but just bought an M40 for $200 on ebay. No acc, just battery, cam and charger. I was planning on buying WA converter and a 43 to 52 mm converter so I can use my Nikon camera filters. I will see how my battery is, and then get a Wasabi. I guess I do not need to get those hdmi cables etc. since I will simply copy off the USB.

Any updates on what else I need to get that will make me keep this for a while. Cannot keep upgrading my toys frown.gif

Thanks for the great info here.

If you don't have the AC power, you can't transfer via USB...but that method is more time-consuming, anyway.
Most people use card readers as it's easier.

Turn off camcorder, take card out...put card/class 4 or higher SDHC in a card reader, navigate to the STREAM folder, copy and paste those mts files (all you need) into a folder on your PC. Or just copy and paste the whole stream folder and rename it. (Note: Don't use "cut".)

Editing software would be preferable - if you want to go cheap, Sony Vegas Platinum:
http://www.amazon.com/Sony-Movie-Studio-Platinum-12/dp/B008MIMHDU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1369869051&sr=8-2&keywords=sony+vegas+movie+studio+platinum+12

http://www.amazon.com/Sony-Vegas-Studio-Platinum-Version/dp/B0051M6I9O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1369869051&sr=8-4&keywords=sony+vegas+movie+studio+platinum+12

If you record an event in one single take for an extended period of time, you will need to stitch together the files together that get broken up into chunks (this is with any AVCHD camera). Vegas has a "Device Explorer" feature which will allow you to stitch into one big file while the card is in the reader.

If you have the Pixela software that came with HFM40, that will also stitch as well as freeware tsmuxer.

If you don't plan on filming long clips, you don't have to worry about what I described - but I thought you may want to know.
If short clips/no stitching; just copy and paste the files from the stream folder...and play in Windows Media, VLC or Splash Lite...will all play the mts files...no editor required.
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post #252 of 260 Old 05-29-2013, 06:19 PM
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Thanks xfws, I might end up filming longer clips (have kids, soccer, presentation, etc., no longer than 30m, I presume). But, I must look up the tsmuxer.

As for editing, in the past 20 years, of all my video coverage, unfortunately, I have never really edited any video! Just shoot and keep.

The next big video project is to move all of my footage from

1. Sharp Hi-8 to digital (I need to get a new (used) one because my unit seems to have a little trouble)
2. MiniDV to digital (know any cheap but good miniDV cams I can get for this purpose?)

So, I won't be editing any of my Canon stuff.

Also, do you know if tsmuxer can help me play my old .mkv files (that my PS3 does not play)?

Sorry for the OT questions.

Thanks again.
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post #253 of 260 Old 05-29-2013, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EnergyFan View Post

Also, do you know if tsmuxer can help me play my old .mkv files (that my PS3 does not play)?

You can use tsmuxer to convert mkv to m2ts for playback on your PS3:
http://www.bitburners.com/articles/convert-mkv-video-files-to-m2ts-for-playstation-3-using-tsmuxer/4015/

tsMuxeR:
http://www.videohelp.com/tools/tsMuxeR

You can also type 'mkv' into the VideoHelp site for other results/programs regarding mkv.
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post #254 of 260 Old 05-29-2013, 09:04 PM
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Pixela software can be downloaded for free with your s/n. I use it to transfer video from my M41 while on battery power.
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post #255 of 260 Old 05-30-2013, 12:26 PM
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Thanks for the heads up on the s/w.

A few dumb questions:

1: I am planning to get a

52MM 2.2x Telephoto and 0.43X Wide Angle High Definition Lenses for NIKON DSLR ($30)
http://www.amazon.com/Telephoto-Definition-MagicFiber-Microfiber-Cleaning/dp/B0052Z9HZ2

and use it on my M40 with that step up ring (43mm to 52mm). I do not want to buy two sets of lenses. Any problems?

2: I see most of the (expensive) accessories on the Canon website (my main interest is for an inexpensive wireless microphone and possibly a light) are "out of stock." Can you folks clue me in on where I can get these (or generic ones) cheap?

3: What is the deal with Eye-fi SD cards? Worth the trouble and the cost? I am considering a small 8GB Eye-fi.

4: When I imported an MKV file into TSMuxer, I get a bunch of this...

"Matroska parse Error: invalid H264 NAL unit size, NAL unit truncated."

I just want to convert this unplayable MKV file to something playable on PS3.


Thanks.
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post #256 of 260 Old 06-07-2013, 10:44 AM
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Hello

A newbie here & so many setting on this camera.
Can anyone point me to a web page or a document somewhere how to get the best out of this camera?
I am looking for info on best setting settings for
- Indoor shooting of say a birthday party
- Outdoor daylight walking (to shoot scenery)
- Outdoor night time shooting

etc.

Thanks for the help

FD
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post #257 of 260 Old 06-10-2013, 12:10 AM
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Hello Xfws -- Stupid Amazon vendor sent me a Vivitar 0.43x HD Macro lens where I had ordered a Digital Concepts. Any idea whether this is a keeper. I see it gets all fuzzy around full zoom. Makes my cam look expensive!!!

Also, quality of video is ah-mazing...but tell me, I with my normal vision cannot tell the difference in video quality on my 720p/1080i TV between MXP and XP+ modes. So, what am I missing? One thing I hate: this MXP is going to fill my NAS up in a hurry. Can I downgrade all my future shots to XP+? Any strong reasons I should not? \\




TO fnd0001:

I suggest you do a test run first. First shoot a test clip on Auto (assuming it is not already set to MXP). Then, in M (manual), shoot another test clip in MXP. If you have a PC, upload and watch clips. Pick the best.

Another thing: If outdoor coverage is too bright, set EV level down. Test again. Decide.

With my limited experience with this camera, I think this quality appears very good so you do not have to hunt for that special combo of settings. Good luck.
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post #258 of 260 Old 06-10-2013, 08:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EnergyFan View Post

Hello Xfws -- Stupid Amazon vendor sent me a Vivitar 0.43x HD Macro lens where I had ordered a Digital Concepts. Any idea whether this is a keeper. I see it gets all fuzzy around full zoom. Makes my cam look expensive!!!

Also, quality of video is ah-mazing...but tell me, I with my normal vision cannot tell the difference in video quality on my 720p/1080i TV between MXP and XP+ modes. So, what am I missing? One thing I hate: this MXP is going to fill my NAS up in a hurry. Can I downgrade all my future shots to XP+? Any strong reasons I should not?

If it bothers you, tell them they sent the wrong one and they will pay for the shipping to get the correct item.
Otherwise, you can test the quality with and without the lens, examine the footage and decide if it looks good. There shouldn't be much difference between Vivitar and Digital Concepts brands.

If you think that one of these cheaper lenses, either brand, is ruining the image you may have to get something more expensive. Do tests..

If you're only viewing the footage yourself on a TV and can't see the difference in the camcorder's quality settings, I suppose it doesn't matter.
If uploading to YouTube and/or editing, you always want to start of at the highest quality possible/MXP, as both editing/rendering and YouTube degrade the original quality.
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post #259 of 260 Old 06-10-2013, 01:46 PM
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Xfws: Your thots much appreciated. Thanks. I will have to do more tests for the MXp/XP+ and the wide angle. The vendor wrote back asking me to ship the item back to him.

And, on another note, my NAS (the reliable DNS-323) has no trouble playing .mts (just had to use the PS3 trick you suggested; that is, rename the file to .m2ts). No tsmuxer reqd.

Any idea about the .mkv problem I wrote earlier?

UPDATE: Found this...on the tsmuxer forum.

<<My favorite tool for PS3 compatible conversion of any HD material. I love it..
But I guess the MKV part needs some update ?! In the last weeks I had some MKV files (created with MKVmerge 4.3.0 where tsMuxer is not able to parse them ("Matroska Parse Error. Invalid H264 NAL unit size.NAL unit truncated")
I had to demux the file with MKVToolnix, afterwards the stream can be muxed with tsMuxeR without probs.
Ease of use would be 10 if a batch mode would be added to UI.
>>

It looks like I will have to lose the 6-channel audio and convert to a 2-channel before tsMuxer can convert to .m2ts. I will read up more. Thanks.
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post #260 of 260 Old 06-10-2013, 02:43 PM
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It is only 24 Mbit/s at full bitrate, this is peanuts. It is already heavily compromised, I don't see a point of using even lower bitrate. The difference will be most noticeable on scenes with high motion and lots of fine details.

Some lens adapters are rated to certain zoom only, so say a 10x adapter will go fuzzy at 12x zoom, this is normal.
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