3D Camcorders and 3D to 2D - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 4 Old 06-23-2012, 09:57 PM - Thread Starter
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I am going to buy a 3D camcorder and consider the Sony HDR-TD10, JVC GS-TD1 and Panasonic HC-X900. I understand the Sony & JVC are considerably better in 3D (full 1920, 5x/10x zoom, etc). The Panasonic is better in 2D but not by a big margin. So my preference is towards the Sony or JVC but there are a few items that are very important to me.

I would like to record everything(!) in 3D. Content will NOT be watched in 3D on or through the camcorder but on a computer screen or TV. Also, quite often the movies will be watched in 2D as not everybody wants to put on the 3D glasses. So my questions are:

1) Which of the 3 camcorders allow me to copy the video files onto a computer and then watch them from the computer(!) in 3D on the 3D-capable computer screen?

2) Which of the 3 camcorders allow me to easily convert 3D movies to 2D? Ideally this can be done on-the-fly by appropriate computer software (which one?) but I would also be ok to keep to files. Which software is required to do so?
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post #2 of 4 Old 06-30-2012, 12:50 PM
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I'll tell you what I have, maybe it might help you.
I have a panasonic 3d1 camera which i only use in 3d mode. I just got back from a long trip which included 9 days in Kona and i took a lot of 3d video, including at the top of Mauna Kea mountain and near the glowing caldera full of lava at volcano national park (near dark). The footage looks excellent. I know this is not on your camera list, but it is handy being so small and the 3d is great, like steam coming from the vents in Kona that almost pops out of the screen plus it is 1080i. I have a couple of 3d pics that I will get developed into 8x10's. The biggest drawbacks to it are sound (no input for optional mic) and you can't zoom while doing 3d (but you can set up zoom before filming). This is not that big a deal though as when you are doing 3d, you want to avoid zooming in and out as well as panning. The best 3d stuff I have is just to have the cam on a monopod or tripod and let it just film away- the depth will draw you in and looks natural. Any motion, whether shake or panning just destroys it.

To play it back, all I have to do is insert the memory card into my panasonic 220 bluray player- it is that simple! The player is about $130.
Want to watch your footage in 2d? No problem, there is a setting on the 220 to convert 3d to 2d.

Last week was the first trip that I used solid state media to do the bulk of my recording. In the past seven years, I used HDV cameras that recorded 1080i onto DV tapes. This trip, I used my HV40 camera maybe an hour tops. Even if the HV40 was able to do 3d, I probably would have still done most of my filming with the little 3d1 simply because it was just so much smaller/lighter.
If you want to be able to take a memory card, play it in a dvd player and watch it in 3d or down converted to 2d, get a panny cam, panny bluray player and oh, use regular sd cards, not the mico sd cards with an sd adapter (they don't play in my player!).
Whatever you get, make sure to get a monopod. 3d seems to magnify any movement with the camera as it makes for queesier viewing than 2d and even with a monopod, I got some wiggle.
FWIW, I was looking at a crater at the volcano park, filming with my 3d1 when a man walked by with a large panny 3d cam, looked like a panny 1000 with ia expander. Wife noticed my obvious camera obvious and told me "Don't even think about it!"
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post #3 of 4 Old 06-30-2012, 07:12 PM
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I am also a big fan of the Panasonic 3D1. It is the only choice for taking good 3D stills and 3D video.

Now for the 2D/3D question. The MVC 3D video files made by the TD10 play in 2D in all media players.You do not have to "convert". This is because the stereo MVC file contains a full 2D, AVCHD-compliant 108060i left-lens stream that any player can play that can play AVCHD video. So you do not have to convert to play the 3D files in 2D. You have to have proper 3D equipment/softare to play the 3D files in 3D.

The JVC produces 3D files that do not conform fully to the standard recognized by most players or software, althought they are like MVC. The bulky add-on lens and inferior 3D of the Panasonic to me rules that out. Your best bet is the Sony TD10 or the newer model, the TD20, which is smaller.

But do check out the Panasonic 3D1. I have both the Sony TD10 and the Panasonic 3D1; I use the latter much more often.

You also should check out the 3D Source forum here, which is all about 3D cameras and software.
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post #4 of 4 Old 06-30-2012, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markr041 View Post

But do check out the Panasonic 3D1. I have both the Sony TD10 and the Panasonic 3D1; I use the latter much more often.
You also should check out the 3D Source forum here, which is all about 3D cameras and software.

I too gave a lot of thought to the TD10 and even held out for the release of the TD20 before settling on the 3d1.
i wanted something that could do stills also and the TD20's close sensor distance scared me off, I was worried that I wouldn't get the depth that I wanted.
So, I got the 3d1, thinking if a better 3d cam than the HD20 comes out next year, I could buy that and still have a nifty p&s 3d camera that does good 3d video to join it. The other option was to get a hd10 or hd20, get a better 3d cam next summer and mothball the hd10/hd20 to the closet with my other used cams.
To me, it was a no brainer- go with the 3d1.
Oh, and though, outside of brightness, are no controls for you to set for 3d mode, don't worry- the panny ai mode works pretty darn well.
I watch all my stuff on a 72" Samsung DLP and the pq is great. Was watching last weeks HI footage not long ago and it was like I was back there.
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