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post #1 of 14 Old 05-23-2014, 11:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Unfortunately, I don't seem to be.

 

With the camera (Lumix g6 w/kit lens) in manual video mode in very bright outside light, I can adjust the settings to get a nicely exposed noise-free picture. The histogram doesn't shift (or barely) when I press the iA button and the settings on manual.

 

If I'm inside with sub-optimal light (my typical shooting conditions) I can't seem to manually get close to the picture quality that iA has. The primary issue is a ton of noise without using iA. I can't seem to get the ISO low enough to reduce the noise to an acceptable level.

 

Is the iA accessing settings that are not exposed to me or is it just doing a better job?

 

Thanks for any tips.

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post #2 of 14 Old 05-23-2014, 11:43 AM
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Check you Shutter and Aperture settings. The camera could be setting the shutter to eighter 30 or 60 while you could be setting it to eighter 125 or higher. If you set it too high, you'd also be setting your ISO too high. Same with the Aperture settings being off. You could be using something like say f/5.6 while the camera could be automatically setting it to say f/1.7 to f/3.5.
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post #3 of 14 Old 05-23-2014, 12:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Paulo,

 

I've just tried a wide aperture and a slow shutter and as low of an ISO as I can and it looks really noisy, but when I go into iA mode the picture looks pretty good (brighter and less noisy). The histogram looks compressed in the manual mode and more well distributed in iA.

 

I must still be missing something since I can't match the settings and quality of iA. Using the iA isn't that bad, but I probably won't achieve my holy grail of picture quality with a fast shutter and a wide angle deep focus field with insufficient lighting for the kit lens.

 

I wonder if one of the faster Panasonic primes would solve the problem? Although with another $300-400 for a lens, I may as well sell the G6 and get a RX100 iii this summer with its fast lens for about the same $.

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post #4 of 14 Old 05-24-2014, 06:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AJInstitute View Post

.....

Is the iA accessing settings that are not exposed to me or is it just doing a better job?

Thanks for any tips.
I have the related Lumix GX7 with a couple lenses. If you can give me some parameters, I would be happy to try them and see if I discover a workaround or method.

How dark is the low light?

Bill
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post #5 of 14 Old 05-28-2014, 05:02 AM
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I'd suggest looking at your iA mode picture's metadata and just starting there with your manual settings.

If you go here https://www.flickr.com/groups/lumix-g6/ and check out the exif data on some of those pictures that sort of match your surroundings, maybe that would be a good starting point too! (just in case you are not aware, on flickr, if you click on an image and then find the little ellipsis in the bottom right, you'll see a selection for exif data. It'll tell you everything you could ever want to know about the picture!) smile.gif
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post #6 of 14 Old 05-28-2014, 03:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsprague View Post


I have the related Lumix GX7 with a couple lenses. If you can give me some parameters, I would be happy to try them and see if I discover a workaround or method.

How dark is the low light?

Bill

Its a room about 25' x 20' and it has 16 fluorescent bulbs 10' overhead. I know its really terrible lighting, except that iA has a trick to get nice results in that poor light.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by pezgod View Post

I'd suggest looking at your iA mode picture's metadata and just starting there with your manual settings.

If you go here https://www.flickr.com/groups/lumix-g6/ and check out the exif data on some of those pictures that sort of match your surroundings, maybe that would be a good starting point too! (just in case you are not aware, on flickr, if you click on an image and then find the little ellipsis in the bottom right, you'll see a selection for exif data. It'll tell you everything you could ever want to know about the picture!) smile.gif


Is there an exif equivalent for the video files? That would be helpful to see what iA was choosing.

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post #7 of 14 Old 05-28-2014, 04:04 PM
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You should see a MJPEG option. Shoot the same scene with that mode, put the file on the computer and see it if shows a still image right before the video file. If it does, you can get the data from that still image. That's that only way to get info out of video and probably the best way. The other way would be to take a photo with the flash off but I'm not so sure if the auto photo settings will match the auto video settings.
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post #8 of 14 Old 05-28-2014, 04:27 PM - Thread Starter
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That's a great idea, but I don't believe that this camera has MJPEG capability. I can only find MP4 and AVCHD options.

 

Any experience with calibration targets, could those be helpful?

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post #9 of 14 Old 05-28-2014, 08:17 PM
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Theirs MJPEG on my GH2 and I was assuming the G6 should have it as well. Put the camera on Intelligent Auto mode and then go into the menu and see if you find a "Red Mode" that allows you to change the settings. If the G6 has "MOTION JPEG", you should see it in the options. I don't have a G6 though so the menu in the G6 could be a bit different on the GH2.

EDIT
Looking at the G6's specs, it doesn't look like it has it anyway. That stinks.
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post #10 of 14 Old 05-29-2014, 08:21 AM
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I think this should work....

1.) start recording video, take still picture WHILE recording video (it'll let you either take the 2mp capture from the stream, or black out the video for a 12mp image i think)
2.) check the metadata on that image.

I'd suggest using "motion picture priority" mode, since that'll take the 2mp image without stopping the video stream. Hopefully it still saves the exif data in there.



EDIT: IT DOES WORK!!! I just looked at some pictures bill (brunerww) posted for me in an earlier thread where I asked him to take some pics while recording video to see the quality. Link to post Click on the images and Grab the original files and look at the metadata. (granted, those were taken with a GH3, but I don't see how that should behave any differently for the G6).

In the first picture, for example, it shows F/4.1, 1/60sec, iso-6400.

That should help you get to where you want to be! smile.gif
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post #11 of 14 Old 06-02-2014, 11:11 AM - Thread Starter
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Paulo and Pez - Thanks so much for the help. I'm now able to match exposures with iA.

 

There were a few idiosyncrasies with the G6:

 

1.With iA activated, a half press of the shutter would display the aperture and shutter picked by the camera. This only worked in one of the PASM modes.

2. A movie captured in PASM uses an auto ISO and only uses the set ISO for a picture taken during recording.

3. In creative Movie mode I get a live exposure view but no display of iA's aperture and shutter choice.

 

Now I can meter a scene in iA and match aperture and shutter then switch to creative Movie and adjust the ISO until the histograms match. With that baseline I can adjust to my liking using rec highlight.

 

A couple more questions, is there a reason that the video ISO only goes to 3200 while photo ISO is 12800?

 

iDynamic and iResolution seem to work well with lots of light, but add noise in low light. Any suggestions for using those two?

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post #12 of 14 Old 06-03-2014, 04:32 AM
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Awesome!!! Glad to hear you got it figured out!

As for why the video ISO doesn't go to 12800...Maybe it's just there to prevent you from taking an unuseable video? I'm not sure how the processor in there handles video and whatnot, but maybe there simply isn't enough power to handle it. I' m not an engineer or a pro photographer/videographer. So those are just my guesses! smile.gif
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post #13 of 14 Old 06-26-2014, 03:34 PM - Thread Starter
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A quick update: the camera cheats!

I was trying to meter and match the exposure with the taking a pic on auto and seeing the settings method. What I saw was that the camera is accessing ISO settings that are not available to me on a manual selection basis. For example, the camera has ...400, 800, 1600, etc., but some of the pictures taken with iA had ISOs of 1000 and 1250.

Since the camera obviously has this fine grain level of control over the settings, why is the user limited to these big doubled only gradations?
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post #14 of 14 Old 07-04-2014, 02:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Not smarter yet...but getting closer

Quote:
Originally Posted by AJInstitute View Post
A couple more questions, is there a reason that the video ISO only goes to 3200 while photo ISO is 12800
I've found a menu choice that I was missing called extended ISO that lets me select the entire range.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AJInstitute View Post
A quick update: the camera cheats!

I was trying to meter and match the exposure with the taking a pic on auto and seeing the settings method. What I saw was that the camera is accessing ISO settings that are not available to me on a manual selection basis. For example, the camera has ...400, 800, 1600, etc., but some of the pictures taken with iA had ISOs of 1000 and 1250.
So, the camera doesn't really cheat, I just wasn't aware of the rules of the game. There's another setting I'd missed called ISO Increments. Its been changed from 1 EV to 1/3 EV and now I can access the ISOs I'd been missing.
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