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post #361 of 1691 Old 04-26-2011, 09:57 AM
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@shaun5 I have no idea why the trouble with the pin code? You are required to register/login? This information was blasted in an marketing email you should have received if you are signed up for Lutron Updates and an online version is found here for those that didn't receive the email:

http://app.lutron.info/e/es.aspx?s=1...877d1cf4d770e0

@Fiasco, I wonder why your are attacking me for passing common & publicly available information to assist those that may not yet be aware & share in the education of new products. Furthermore I consider your comments, rude, highly speculative, & ungrounded. I kindly ask you to remove and/or edit them.

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post #362 of 1691 Old 04-26-2011, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post

@kevin, sure you know this but for those that don't the initial 'walk around' device activation is facilitated with a wifi setup & laptop. If you are wired(network) to your main repeater to a desktop you will get some exercise...
...

Actually the best way is to use a laptop and wifi to remote desktop
into a decently fast desktop. Even on a stuffed laptop the software
is horribly slow. A result of sql server.

But you might as well get some exersize now as once the system
is installed... instant couch potato, especially with an ipad.
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post #363 of 1691 Old 07-07-2011, 11:56 AM
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Thought this would be a good place to add this bit of info I just came across.

Apparently, there is a 'workaround' for the 110V requirement for a dimmer, using an auxiliar power supply. Effectively, you could install a dimmer anywhere, using LV cables and a power supply in the wiring closet.

http://resi.lutron.com/Portals/4/doc...%20Keypads.pdf

Haven't done it, looks interesting. Just thought I'd share.

I'm guessing a RA2 Hybrid Keypad could also be wired this way, but I don't know.

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post #364 of 1691 Old 07-07-2011, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post

Thought this would be a good place to add this bit of info I just came across.

Apparently, there is a 'workaround' for the 110V requirement for a dimmer, using an auxiliar power supply. Effectively, you could install a dimmer anywhere, using LV cables and a power supply in the wiring closet.

http://resi.lutron.com/Portals/4/doc...%20Keypads.pdf

Haven't done it, looks interesting. Just thought I'd share.

I'm guessing a RA2 Hybrid Keypad could also be wired this way, but I don't know.

You absolutely can not power a hybrid that way. A standard keypad pulls very little current, a hybrid switches a load.

I see very limited application for this. Might be useful if you are replacing some other device like a volume control with a ra keypad and you want to provide power from the head end. 9 times out of 10 I see existing non CL2 zipwire used for distributed audio in retrofits.

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post #365 of 1691 Old 07-08-2011, 05:54 AM
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In a preliminary release meeting they told us this would work on 24vdc as well. I had an opportunity to use it retro fitting an older grafik eye w/ remote keypad to a QS grafik eye with RA2 system keypad(vs. Just supplying another GE keypad) This gave us flexibility to control the entire RA2 system vs. Just the QS.

Used the keypad power output just off 2 of 4 existing LV wires. I called lutron and they gave me the same document you linked above, but remembered the seminar speaker saying 24v, I tried it and is still working for my customer for the last 8 months.

So there's one application. I think the intent was for retrofitting/upgrading from a different control systems keypads which are more commonly LV wired.

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post #366 of 1691 Old 07-08-2011, 05:54 AM
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In a preliminary release meeting they told us this would work on 24vdc as well. I had an opportunity to use it retro fitting an older grafik eye w/ remote keypad to a QS grafik eye with RA2 system keypad(vs. Just supplying another GE keypad) This gave us flexibility to control the entire RA2 system vs. Just the QS.

Used the keypad power output just off 2 of 4 existing LV wires. I called lutron and they gave me the same document you linked above, but remembered the seminar speaker saying 24v, I tried it and is still working for my customer for the last 8 months.

So there's one application. I think the intent was for retrofitting/upgrading from a different control systems keypads which are more commonly LV wired.

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post #367 of 1691 Old 07-08-2011, 06:20 AM
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I do believe that is the main application this is designed for.

Upgrading older GrafikEye's with wired aux keypads to QS.
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post #368 of 1691 Old 08-11-2011, 01:32 PM
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I'm almost certain the answer is no, but does the Car Visor Receiver act as an Auxiliary Repeater? Seems such a shame to install them side by side, in the garage.

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post #369 of 1691 Old 08-11-2011, 06:47 PM
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Nope.
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post #370 of 1691 Old 08-11-2011, 07:45 PM
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Thank you, sir.

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post #371 of 1691 Old 09-09-2011, 10:45 AM
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We are hosting another 'BLAST' training at the Lutron Experience Center in Irvine (CA). Sept. 27th. If you are interested please EMAIL me or Tom. Seats are limited to those that sign up early. We typically have 1 or 2 different packages on special for the event. This is a half-day training which will entitle you to the L1 certification and software.

If you are interested please forward your contact info to:
paul@hankselectric.net
tom@hankselectric.net

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post #372 of 1691 Old 09-09-2011, 03:12 PM
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Alot of great new stuff in the RadioRa2 and HWQS software updates. RF diagnostics (for devices that shipped after january of this year), cellular shades, new honeywell touchscreen thermostat, shared scenes ect ect ect

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post #373 of 1691 Old 09-09-2011, 07:18 PM
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Elk Products announced RA2 control, for the M1, in the form of a 'hardware add-on'.

http://www.cocoontech.com/portal/art...ra-2-interface

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post #374 of 1691 Old 09-10-2011, 03:40 AM
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Hi Paul! Possibly you or others can answer this HVAC question about RadioRa2. Do you know if you can integrate Lennox's variable speed furnance 9SLP98V Variable-Capacity Gas Furnace) with the RadioRa2?

Thanks!
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post #375 of 1691 Old 09-11-2011, 09:54 AM
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Sorry I am not familiar with actual HVAC equipment, however if it is controlled by a normal/typical thermostat than it should be controllable to some degree.

You are probably more familiar than I with the Lennox equipment, perhaps a look at the Lutron RR2 controllers wire diagram may help:

http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocum...ry/041-299.pdf

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post #376 of 1691 Old 09-11-2011, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post

Sorry I am not familiar with actual HVAC equipment, however if it is controlled by a normal/typical thermostat than it should be controllable to some degree.

You are probably more familiar than I with the Lennox equipment, perhaps a look at the Lutron RR2 controllers wire diagram may help:


I tried to look up the model numbers but it wasn't listed in the resources provided by Lutron. The main difference here is that its a 'variable' speed furnace and not a 1 or 2 stage furnace. If anyone has info on its compatibility or use with their new seeTemp let me know...Thanks!
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post #377 of 1691 Old 09-12-2011, 03:16 AM
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sure wish lutron would release the ra2 ceiling fan controls.
Seems to be the only major missing piece.
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post #378 of 1691 Old 09-12-2011, 05:03 AM
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I have a connected a couple of the HVAC controllers and the wiring is standard thermostat wiring with a single connection for the fan (off/on/auto) and 2-stage heating and cooling wires (Y1/Y2 and W1/W2). I don't know anything about the Lennox unit but unless the variable fan is controlled by onboard CPU, I don't think it will be compatible with the RA2.
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post #379 of 1691 Old 09-13-2011, 09:26 AM
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@Kevin, I saw the Ceiling Fan Control in their Demo mobile showroom, hopefully it will be released soon.....

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post #380 of 1691 Old 09-14-2011, 04:40 AM
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@Kevin, I saw the Ceiling Fan Control in their Demo mobile showroom, hopefully it will be released soon.....

Thanks Paul: Did it fit in a single decora box/plate. This would be huge in the RadioRa2 world finally!
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post #381 of 1691 Old 09-14-2011, 09:40 AM
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took them a year to release the adaptive dimmer.

as far as i know, the ceiling fan is going to be a two piece.
standard looking dimmer in the wall, and a power module that
goes inside the ceiling fan.

should be roughly the same as the maestro IR wireless version.
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post #382 of 1691 Old 09-28-2011, 01:13 PM
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Hey all,

I'm new here and came across this thread during a google search. I've been tasked with getting an Crestron and RadioRa2 system to talk to each other, and I'm running into some growing pains as I'm a bit new to this programming aspect.

I've connected the RS-232 cable, imported the Lutron RadioRa2 modules for crestron found on your website, added the core module and a dimmer to one of the rooms which has a maestro dimmer.

I've set the integration ID of the dimmer to the correct ID as per the Lutron Integration spreadsheet.
I've set the Core module to use RS-232.
I've added the dimmer to control the chandelier that it is powering.
I've altered a button on the touchpanel in system builder.
I've used a straight-through RS-232 cable
I've set the button model as Tap and Hold, hold time 1s.

But when I press the button on the touchpanel to raise or lower the dimmer nothing happens. I'm unsure if it is how I'm interacting with the modules, if I'm missing a required step or forgetting to address something.

Has anybody tackled a similar install that might have some pointers?

Thanks all....glad I found this place.
Tim
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post #383 of 1691 Old 10-01-2011, 06:43 PM
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So, Paul,
If I wanted to connect my hot water circulation pump to my Radio RA2 system, what module should I buy?
And, can you tell me if there is no way to get Lutron's Radio RA2 to time my lights without the hugely expensive bridge? I would like some of my system's lights to come on at sunset (automatically adjusted for my location & season) and go off at 11 p.m. This is so basic; I should not have to pay $1,000 to accomplish that.
Thanks,
Richard

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post #384 of 1691 Old 10-01-2011, 09:41 PM
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To control the pump, assuming it's 110V (most recirc. pumps are), you would use the plug in switch module.

For timed events, there is no 'bridge', like you may have been familiar with in RadioRa Classic systems. Instead timed events are stored and triggered from RadioRa 2 main repeaters, but they do require the PC programming application to setup.
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post #385 of 1691 Old 10-03-2011, 11:22 AM
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Yes the plug in appliance module would be the best/easiest. You could also use a basic RR2 switch [RRD-8ANS ~ requires neutral connection] if the pump is within the ratings (1/4hp ~ 5.8a). List price is the same so the only matter is mounting & what you want to look at if it's visible.

The plug-in gets you up to 1/2 hp...

For larger pumps/motors/fans you would normally use RR2 switch & appropriately sized relay....

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post #386 of 1691 Old 10-05-2011, 10:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BradKas View Post

To control the pump, assuming it's 110V (most recirc. pumps are), you would use the plug in switch module.

For timed events, there is no 'bridge', like you may have been familiar with in RadioRa Classic systems. Instead timed events are stored and triggered from RadioRa 2 main repeaters, but they do require the PC programming application to setup.

So Brad, you mean that just having a repeater will allow me to have any of the Radio RA2 controlled devices come on at a preset time and off at another?
Will it also adjust for the seasons and day light savings time so that something could come on at dusk(winter or summer) and off at midnight?
I don't have to have a Chronos System Bridge?
Thanks a bunch .

Richard, Santa Cruz, CA
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post #387 of 1691 Old 10-05-2011, 10:41 PM
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Paul,
What is the least expensive switch I can use to add a light to a Radio RA2 system? I have a bunch of outdoor flood lights around the periphery of the house with switches all on the second floor, and it would be nice to be able to control them from multiple locations, e.g., from the 1st floor. I don't need to dim them or have scenes, just be able to turn them on from from afar. If I have 6 of these, and the cheapest switches are $100 each, that's a lot to pay for the convenience.
Are there compatible, and less expensive, switches from other manufacturers that work with Radio RA2?

Richard, Santa Cruz, CA
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post #388 of 1691 Old 10-06-2011, 05:46 AM
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Correct, timed events are programmed and then stored on the main repeater. Dusk/dawn turn on/off times are determined by the longitude and latitude of your city, which you input into the software.

There is no Chronos bridge for RadioRa 2.

Having the main repeater wired to your WiFi network will allow the use of the Lutron home idevice, or andriod app which can serve as a keypad, or means of control.

The cheapest wallbox control would be either the 600W Dimmer, or 8 Amp Switch - I believe both have the same MSRP.

I would tend to agree that a RadioRa 2 lighting control system may be overkill if being used to control a few zones of exterior lights, but when you start thinking of the full scope of what you can accomplish it starts to make more sense.

You will be able to set automatic on, and off times with the astronomical time clock, as well as control the lights manually or check their status from the app. You will also have created a foundation that can be built upon with the installation of the main repeater. And if you're like most people who install lighting control in their homes, you will want more.

Good luck.
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post #389 of 1691 Old 10-06-2011, 06:27 AM
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Quote:
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Correct, timed events are programmed and then stored on the main repeater. Dusk/dawn turn on/off times are determined by the longitude and latitude of your city, which you input into the software.

[...]

You will be able to set automatic on, and off times with the astronomical time clock, as well as control the lights manually or check their status from the app. You will also have created a foundation that can be built upon with the installation of the main repeater. And if you're like most people who install lighting control in their homes, you will want more.

I'd second this. I put a dimmer on our front lights. I now have it programmed to do things like come on at 100% 30 min. before sundown, then drop to 75% 30 min. after sundown. At 11:30 I drop the lights to 50% until 2:00 in the morning when they drop to 25%. An hour before sunrise they go to 100% then they shut off 30 min after sunrise. Sundown and sunrise are set by your location and automatically adjust throughout the year, with good accuracy from what I've seen.

It all might sound like overkill but the light levels match our needs and we save a lot of power over the course of a year (our front fixtures have six 40 watt bulbs total). I don't have a switch on the back lights but since having set this all up I now want to get one if we stay in this house...
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post #390 of 1691 Old 10-06-2011, 08:08 AM
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@richardorser: The switch for your exterior is the way to go[RRD-8ANS-WH] see PM for pricing, as explained by 'Scientist', you can program to fade to on or off, which indeed will extend normal lamp life. It may seem expensive as compared to regular Dimmer or Switch, but it is actually fairly priced in the automation market, even more so among those that work well like the RR2. There are no 3rd party devices that will directly work with RR2 in terms of Switches & Dimmers, the only other way to interface with 3rd party equipment is through Contact closure via their Car Visor Control, but that is more expensive than the basic switch and more complicated to integrate.

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