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post #481 of 1204 Old 02-06-2012, 06:26 AM
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Personally I don't agree.

What I will say is remotely locating switches is going to 'force' you to design the system layout better. And system layout is one thing that takes experience.

Some areas will still work better to have devices local, like hallways and stairwells on the 'out skirts' of the system, or an under-cabinet lighting switch in a task area of the kitchen, etc.

In a keypad control only system the keypad layout is crucial.

As far as cleaning people go, I give them their own 'Clean Up', and 'Goodbye' button. This way they do not have to interact with the lighting control system in any way, other pushing a single button when they begin their clean up.

Now guests can be tricky, because controlling advanced lighting can be difficult whether you're looking at a keypad, or 2 4 gangs stacked on top of each other, but simple, consistent programming is going to be the winner here.

Top button should always turn the lights On, and be clearly engraved 'Room On', 'Bright', 'General', etc. Bottom button should always turn the lights off.

For keypads in heavy flow areas with intersecting hall ways and stairwells that are keypad only control, there should be a keypad dedicated to 'toggling' all of these. A 4 button keypad that says, "East Hall, West Hall, Upstairs, Downstairs" is certainly easier than a 4 gang switch box for a guest.

Once we describe the benefits of whole home lighting control to people, they are generally fully on board, but 90% + of them seek us out purely because they want to 'clean up the walls'. Madness? Maybe, but to ignore this would be insane.
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post #482 of 1204 Old 02-06-2012, 07:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leftheaded View Post

sounds like a major redesign.

This could be a lot of re-work but the end result is less wall clutter, easier point of use. Where you may have 4 or more dimmers or switches, now you can have one simple keypad, easy to use & understand [all RR2 keypads come w/ free pre-paid custom engraving]. Sure if you lived in the home and you had a bank of switches or dimmers you may get used to your layout, but if you've ever walked into someones place with a huge bank of switches you know how frustrating it can be to figure it out.

This is pretty common for us (hiding dimmers/switches), but sometimes it just doesn't make sense with existing wiring/layout, but don't forget about the hybrid keypad! You can use for a single(wired) circuit and a keypad.

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post #483 of 1204 Old 02-07-2012, 08:15 PM
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Is it possible to program scenes that turn some lights off but allow you to use the raise/lower buttons of the keypad to adjust only the lights that are still on? As it appears to work to me hitting the raise button raises the brightness of even the lights I wanted off which is not what I wanted.
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post #484 of 1204 Old 02-08-2012, 06:39 AM
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Default raise/lower will control your last button press.

Other options are:

Raise/lower last button double tapped & raise/lower programmed device(s).

Using these options there is no way to properly achieve what you're asking, although when using raise/lower programmed devices you could select all of the devices you want to have independent raise/lower control over, or create another scene, and control in independently.
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post #485 of 1204 Old 02-08-2012, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdahlke View Post

Is it possible to program scenes that turn some lights off but allow you to use the raise/lower buttons of the keypad to adjust only the lights that are still on? As it appears to work to me hitting the raise button raises the brightness of even the lights I wanted off which is not what I wanted.

As BradKas mentioned the raise/lower button will only affect the devices programmed to the last button press. So the only 'workaround' I see is to create a new scene with only the devices on it that you want to control. Of course that means you will have to turn off the previous scene first. Might be better to use "Toggle Control" or "Path of Light" programming logic on the previous scene to be able to turn it off, then you would have use another scene just for those devices you want controlled by the raise/lower.

The idea behind scenes is that you have exact levels you want to get to, if you are continually changing you should program another scene for that activity or you'll have to adjust to the aforementioned method.

Paul W.
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post #486 of 1204 Old 02-23-2012, 02:11 PM
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Hanks Electrical Supply is hosting a Radio Ra 2 "BLAST" training on March 28th in Irvine, CA. Attendance to this basic RR2 class will get access to the "essentials" (100 device L1) software and registered for future updates.

Class typically runs about 8am to 3pm (depending on Q&A).

If you are interested in attending please send an email (preferred) or private message. paul [at] hankselectric [dot] net

Depending on demand and attendance we may also have some special pricing on "Packages" made available to those who attend the class.

Class is free but attendance (must show) and pre-registration is required for the software.

If you have questions please contact me or post away....

Paul W.
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post #487 of 1204 Old 02-27-2012, 03:51 PM
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Hello,
We've got our RR2 system installed and all is working well. We've also integrated it with our security system using the VCRX so when a burglary or fire condition is detected by our security system, a contact closure is fired on the VCRX and all is good (well, actually, nothing would be good in either of those cases but the system is performing perfectly). I am also receiving events from the alarm system (as a contact closure) when the system is armed/disarmed.

Anyway, I've been looking through Lutron's App Note #451 for integrating with a particular type of security system and their suggestion for what phantom scenes to use in the main controller when arming/disarming events occur. I'd like to replicate this behavior but we don't have that particular type of alarm system and our alarm system is not going to generate the proper sequence of serial commands to the main controller (or any for that matter).

So, I'm kind of stumped as to how to implement this. Essentially, what the app note suggests is that an arm event will trigger both a scene and a timeclock mode. Furthermore, it what scene it calls for is dependent on whether or not it is "day" or "night."

Clearly, I *COULD* write a program that monitored the main repeater for some type of event (arm). Then, upon seeing that event, my program would send the appropriate sequence of events back to the main repeater. But that requires that I can still program, and it has been 15 years since I've set up a development environment on a PC and the overhead of starting with that, well, probably isn't worth the effort. Is anyone using (or know of) any simple HA software that would allow this type of setup? If the HA software is more complicated than setting up a development environment, then maybe I'll just have to bite the bullet, but this doesn't seem like it should be that complicated...

I could also do a kludgey hack using the timeclock, but that has its own set of issues.

Thoughts...
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post #488 of 1204 Old 03-24-2012, 09:16 PM
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I thought I saw someone say that the original RadioRA accessory switches will work with RR2, but I can't find it again. It does make sense that these ought to work, along with Maestro accessory switches. Can anyone confirm compatibility? I know mention of compatibility isn't in the specs, but will it work? It sure would make transitioning from RR1 to RR2 easier.
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post #489 of 1204 Old 03-25-2012, 02:56 AM
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I can confirm it. Yes original RA accessory dimmer/switch will work

St Louis, MO - Lutron certified
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post #490 of 1204 Old 03-25-2012, 05:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fiasco View Post

I can confirm it. Yes original RA accessory dimmer/switch will work

Very interesting and sensible. Since we're on the topic, does anyone know if Maestro accessory dimmers will work? I would think so since there's not a lot of reason or RR1 or RR2 to have different technology for 3 or 4-way switches.
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post #491 of 1204 Old 03-25-2012, 06:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schalliol View Post

Very interesting and sensible. Since we're on the topic, does anyone know if Maestro accessory dimmers will work? I would think so since there's not a lot of reason or RR1 or RR2 to have different technology for 3 or 4-way switches.

the instructions for the RD-RD accessory dimmer refers to Maestro series so I am guessing it would

I was also told RR1 acc dimmers would not work going from RR1 to RR2 but in fact they do work: could have just left the old ones in place
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post #492 of 1204 Old 03-25-2012, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markrubin View Post


the instructions for the RD-RD accessory dimmer refers to Maestro series so I am guessing it would

I was also told RR1 acc dimmers would not work going from RR1 to RR2 but in fact they do work: could have just left the old ones in place

Yes, both old radiora and maestro accessory dimmers and switches will work. I have done it myself.
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post #493 of 1204 Old 03-25-2012, 01:41 PM
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Very cool. I guess if there's a RadioRA3, this bodes well.
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post #494 of 1204 Old 03-28-2012, 06:11 PM
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RA garage door openers will work as well with RA2 from my understanding.
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post #495 of 1204 Old 03-29-2012, 11:49 PM
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Is it possbile to control the contact closure outputs on the RR-VCRX-WH Visor Control Receiver using button press from a seeTouch wall mount keypad (programmed through RR2 Essentials), or can the CCOs only be controlled from the car visors?

I don't often use the visor receiver...
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post #496 of 1204 Old 03-30-2012, 03:26 AM
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Has anyone done integration with a Jandy Aqualink pool controller? It has an RS-232 serial interface. I'm trying to figure out if there is a way to control the pool equipment via RRA2.
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post #497 of 1204 Old 03-30-2012, 12:42 PM
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You can program the contact closure to trigger from the keypad.
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post #498 of 1204 Old 03-31-2012, 06:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ksalno View Post

Has anyone done integration with a Jandy Aqualink pool controller? It has an RS-232 serial interface. I'm trying to figure out if there is a way to control the pool equipment via RRA2.

Not to the best of my knowledge, depending on what you want to do, you may be able to parallel a switch (or switch & relay) to turn on pumps and such and perhaps the same using dimmer or switches for lights. The contact closures on the VCRX could also be used...

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post #499 of 1204 Old 04-17-2012, 10:17 AM
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It seems that the garage door opener HomeLink protocol is being phased out and replaced with MyQ.

Anyone have any insite to this, for the VCRX?

Believe nothing, no matter where you read it, or who said it, no matter if I have said it, unless it agrees with your own reason and your own common sense. -Buddha

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post #500 of 1204 Old 04-18-2012, 07:07 AM
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For the record, when asked about compatibility of the Chamberlain Liftmaster Smart Control Panel with the VCRX, Lutron TS said:

"Any opener that can be controlled with a contact closure is compatible with a VCRX. If the CCI wiring carries low voltage the VCRX can handle that. Just be aware that if that is how the remote panel powers up, then pulsing the input will short the control panel."

Maybe in the future, I can use a garage door opener remote wired to the VCRX, if I feel the need for the Chamberlain Liftmaster Smart Panel. For now, I'll skip the Smart Panel.

The Smart Panel is powered by the GDO, via the CCI on the GDO.

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post #501 of 1204 Old 05-13-2012, 08:14 PM
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Hi

Sorry if this is in the wrong forum, but about to start interior design of our new house (5330sqf, 4 storeys, Level 1, Living area/Level 2 Bedrooms/Level 3 Bedrooms/Level 4 Entertainment room)

Can someone point me to a resource that show the major differences between RA2/HW & SQ? i'm a bit lost.

I have contacted a lighting designer and they are coming out this week, but jsut want to read up on the differences

Also, I know this is a hard question, but for my size place, which system should I be looking at? (only really need scene's in the Living area and the Entertainment room - I THINK)

Thanks

Eric...
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post #502 of 1204 Old 05-14-2012, 03:07 AM
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Pages 28-29 of this document provide a comparison of HomeWorks QS and RA2:

http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocum...HWQS_trade.pdf

Believe nothing, no matter where you read it, or who said it, no matter if I have said it, unless it agrees with your own reason and your own common sense. -Buddha

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post #503 of 1204 Old 05-14-2012, 09:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iculookn View Post

Hi

Sorry if this is in the wrong forum, but about to start interior design of our new house (5330sqf, 4 storeys, Level 1, Living area/Level 2 Bedrooms/Level 3 Bedrooms/Level 4 Entertainment room)

Can someone point me to a resource that show the major differences between RA2/HW & SQ? i'm a bit lost.

I have contacted a lighting designer and they are coming out this week, but jsut want to read up on the differences

Also, I know this is a hard question, but for my size place, which system should I be looking at? (only really need scene's in the Living area and the Entertainment room - I THINK)

Thanks

Eric...

Major difference is cost. RA2 lighting control would be around 20K for equipment, design and program Homeworks QS ( not SQ ) would be about double. Main difference is that RA 2 actions are limited to program functions. Programed loads on, off or nothing. You have astronomical time clock functions and IOS App. with edit functions. Will need accredited installer with Inclusive software ( 200 devices and shade programming ). Homeworks QS has a central processor and conditional logic. Able set triggers and actions to produce custom programming need accredited installer and dealer/programer for installation.
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post #504 of 1204 Old 05-15-2012, 05:36 AM
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blast training now available to anyone online...

http://www.tahitionly.com/images/rad...iningclass.pdf
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post #505 of 1204 Old 05-15-2012, 05:42 AM
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question for controlling swimming pool pumps

I would like to use RR2 time clock function to control two 220 volt pool pumps

I am thinking about using the appliance module or similar to trigger a 220 volt contactor for each pump

Does this sound doable? any better ideas?
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post #506 of 1204 Old 05-15-2012, 05:58 AM
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Already doing similar thing with a contactor to control highly inductive load
that drives low voltage lighting. So you would need a 2 pole contactor of
the right amperage, with a 110vac coil. Many of the contactors are 24vac
coil only, so you need a small transformer.
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post #507 of 1204 Old 05-16-2012, 07:15 AM
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Appliance module will work or simple RR2 switch, go for it...

We have had some issues with min. Load trying to operate very small or low consumption relays, but just get you typical general purpose Relays from Furnas, Siemens, Square D, & you shouldn't have a problem. These type of relays can make some noise, so avoid mounting in/near an area where a slight hummmmm might be annoying. (Also, some GFCI Spa panels may already include this equipment and you may just need to re-wire the control circuit)

We use the 42 series from Siemens/Furnas and never have a problem.

As mentioned above, be sure to order 120vac coils to avoid the need for a control transformer.

IM me if you have any problems sourcing this stuff, we can help.

Paul W.
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post #508 of 1204 Old 05-20-2012, 07:12 AM
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Quick question. Does the main repeater need a wired connection (cat5) to my home network at all times or just for the initial setup?

Thanks

Chris
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post #509 of 1204 Old 05-20-2012, 07:14 AM
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(deleted: incorrect information in my reply)
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post #510 of 1204 Old 05-20-2012, 07:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markrubin View Post

question for controlling swimming pool pumps

I would like to use RR2 time clock function to control two 220 volt pool pumps

I am thinking about using the appliance module or similar to trigger a 220 volt contactor for each pump

Does this sound doable? any better ideas?

I ended up ordering a Jandy Zodiac IQ904P: it includes the contactors and an iPhone app: I think I can control it by my RTI system

http://www.poolplaza.com/P-POL-iQ904P-3401.html
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