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post #721 of 1021 Old 03-23-2013, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by giomania View Post

For my lamp controls, I was thinking to just use the Tabletop Lamp Dimmer (RRD-3LD-WH), even though I use CFL lights in the lamps. Assuming the CFL's are non-dimmable, I was thinking the bulbs work fine on full power from the dimmer, since at full power, it is not dimming? Does that make sense, or does anyone have any practical experience with this?

The reason I want to go this route, is for the future when I get dimmable CFL's or LED bulbs.

Thanks.

Mark

Anyone?
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post #722 of 1021 Old 03-23-2013, 11:41 AM
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Stop using the non-dimmable CFLs (or CFLs in general, for that matter as they're crap). Don't force your controls to work with crappy bulbs. Just replace the bulbs with ones that are known to work with dimmers. The light temp (color) and output of LEDs, and their dimmability makes them a much better solution.

I've got several sets of table lamps using, iirc FEIT, LED bulbs from Costco on my RA table dimmers. They manage to dim properly, without noise, over their expected range with no trouble at all. I plan on replicating the same setup with them and new RA2 table dimmers in the new house when it's done this summer.
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post #723 of 1021 Old 03-23-2013, 01:28 PM
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ironic I just put in switches in laundry and garage area the cfl were flashing like strobes. I switched out for leds and all is good!
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post #724 of 1021 Old 03-23-2013, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crisms98 View Post

I noticed one of my timeclock events that fire at sunset no longer works after upgrading to 6.0. My other events that are on fixed time are working fine. Anyone experiencing the same issue?

I'm not having any problem. I have both indoor and outdoor lights tied to both sunset and sunrise and they are all working fine. Did you check to make sure the main repeater picked up the correct date and time from your PC when you did the upgrade? Perhaps you want to do another transfer just to make sure the clock is set correctly in the main repeater.

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post #725 of 1021 Old 03-23-2013, 10:49 PM
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Sunset-timed actions continue to work fine for me too, after upgrading to 6.0.0.
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post #726 of 1021 Old 03-28-2013, 08:10 AM
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I ended up unplugging the repeater and doing another transfer. Not sure what happened but sunset event now works.
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post #727 of 1021 Old 04-11-2013, 07:18 AM
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Are Sivoia QS Wireless the only Lutron shade option for RA2, without another controller?

Believe nothing, no matter where you read it, or who said it, no matter if I have said it, unless it agrees with your own reason and your own common sense. -Buddha

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post #728 of 1021 Old 05-14-2013, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post

Are Sivoia QS Wireless the only Lutron shade option for RA2, without another controller?

From the research I've done these are the only ones that will work natively with the system. You can get a contact closure controller that works with RA2 that opens you up to being able to control shades that use a contact switch - but not sure how easy it would be to get it calibrated right unless the shades auto-stop at top and bottom of their travel.

Anyone know of other shades (Lutron or other brands) that can integrate more than just the contact closure thing besides the Sivoia QS wireless? ($$$$)

Electrical engineer by education. Currently a system engineer. I like home automation, theaters, and blinking lights.
Someday it'll be more of an actual hobby - if my employer would ever let me go home!
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post #729 of 1021 Old 05-15-2013, 04:40 AM
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I'd enjoy seeing some cheaper shades/blinds too. In fact, I wish I could just have a RR2 remote adjustment of the 2" wood blinds I have all throughout my house. I rarely open them by raising them. The shade mfgr has a remote option that drops in for this purpose, but of course it doesn't compare with Lutron's. I wish Lutron would stick with the electronics/mechanics and just let installers out them in somehow.
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post #730 of 1021 Old 05-15-2013, 08:14 AM
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Lutron's already making a pretty big change in the shades market with their wireless honeycombs. It may take a while for the next wave of competition to take place. I'd imagine it's been a pretty small market up until very recently. Thus not a lot of incentive or quantities-of-scale factors to consider. Automation does not fit for a wide audience. Could wireless shades be an automation element that appeals to a wider audience? Perhaps, especially since they don't require any hard-wire changes like dimmers or keypads.
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post #731 of 1021 Old 05-15-2013, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danielrg View Post

From the research I've done these are the only ones that will work natively with the system. You can get a contact closure controller that works with RA2 that opens you up to being able to control shades that use a contact switch - but not sure how easy it would be to get it calibrated right unless the shades auto-stop at top and bottom of their travel.

Anyone know of other shades (Lutron or other brands) that can integrate more than just the contact closure thing besides the Sivoia QS wireless? ($$$$)



Based on these posts from awhile back, it concurs with your assessment.

How much are those Sivoia QS wireless Insulated honeycomb shades anyway?


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Originally Posted by mystikjoe View Post

Anyone install sivoia qs shades? Any reasonable places to order?

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Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post

You would have to know through which it is being fed. Typically through the main, however best practice would be both or all if more than 2 devices.
Just a reminder, you can set up your own VPN if you are so inclined, Lutron is just trying to making easier for those that are not.
Reminder, Lutron really pushes you to a "Shade Installer" for shades so the liability of sizing is on them. For the DIY guys that want help with shades and are willing to assume that risk I can help you. (PM or preferably email me)

On a side note I think their Cellular Serena Shades are very competitively priced and can be controlled on a QS, GE, RR2 or straight from a Pico remote.

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Originally Posted by DMILANI View Post

Hi Paul.

Yes, please elaborate. I just took the online Shade training class, and they were pretty clear that you cannot control the Serena shades via QS or RR2. Makes sense, since they would require a more expensive controller, and that is reflected in the price.

Please let us know what you meant by your statement.

Thanks,
D

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Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post

Sorry for the delay guys, seems that my update notifications are not making it to my inbox.

Merely a name discrepancy, pricing is similair. The "Sivoia QS wireless Insulated honeycomb shades" are what I was referring to. Serena is basically the same thing with a different control type.

Also, Fan Speed controls should be starting to ship soon.

And, the IR connections on the back of the GE are supposed to some right off your IR Distribution in place of a bugeye. IR option(front) for the Keypads is supposedly an option that can be added when the engraving is done. Though I don't personally know anyone that has done it yet.

Also, if it wasn't stated I believe the IR on the GE is only for controlling the GE, not other RR2 components through the GE.
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post #732 of 1021 Old 05-16-2013, 03:25 PM
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I'll say it again, those Kirbés from Lutron look awesome. I agree with wkearney99, there is some good potential with blinds. My wife doesn't like the look f the honeycombs.
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post #733 of 1021 Old 05-24-2013, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schalliol View Post

I'd enjoy seeing some cheaper shades/blinds too. In fact, I wish I could just have a RR2 remote adjustment of the 2" wood blinds I have all throughout my house. I rarely open them by raising them. The shade mfgr has a remote option that drops in for this purpose, but of course it doesn't compare with Lutron's. I wish Lutron would stick with the electronics/mechanics and just let installers out them in somehow.

If you care to share the make of the blinds and specifics on controls from the shade mnf. we can probably find a way to control it with RR2, email me if you want some help figuring this out. We do similar things for skylights and 3rd party shades all the time using RR2 switch(s) or VCRX CCI's. paul (at) hankselectric (dot) net

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post #734 of 1021 Old 05-24-2013, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by giomania View Post

For my lamp controls, I was thinking to just use the Tabletop Lamp Dimmer (RRD-3LD-WH), even though I use CFL lights in the lamps. Assuming the CFL's are non-dimmable, I was thinking the bulbs work fine on full power from the dimmer, since at full power, it is not dimming? Does that make sense, or does anyone have any practical experience with this?

The reason I want to go this route, is for the future when I get dimmable CFL's or LED bulbs.

Thanks.

Mark

Just to reiterate, don't do this. I've seen this be the death of typically just the lamp, but often the control as well. It is not true that at 100% the dimmer is not dimming. Whenever you install any (modern)dimmer, you loose a tiny bit of top end which normally doesn't perceive to any noticeable light loss, but does help energy conservation (yes, even at 100%). The dimmer is basically switching on and off very fast at 100% and is not as simple as a potentiometer or rheostat like people tend to believe. If it were it would be about 10x's the size and get very hot.

Yes it will work, but I wouldn't risk my $100 dollar dimmer over a $3 CFL, get a $1 lamp instead and realize you are doing some energy conservation just by using dimmers. With LED's there is too much crap on the market to make a conclusive statement, but if it's says it's dimmable (CFL as well) it's less a risk.

I'm all for energy conservation but thinking a few CFL's are going to do it is only a % of a drop in the bucket. Average lighting bills for residences are less than 15% of the total. (don't jump on me here guys I said average), the real savings is in your heating, insulation and appliances (& for a lot of you AV equipment). I encourage you to use LED, CFL, Induction, etc. as much as you can, but please be realistic, a few regular lamps in some fixtures is going to make a dent in your bill. (...stepping off soap box now...)

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post #735 of 1021 Old 05-24-2013, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wkearney99 View Post

Lutron's already making a pretty big change in the shades market with their wireless honeycombs. It may take a while for the next wave of competition to take place. I'd imagine it's been a pretty small market up until very recently. Thus not a lot of incentive or quantities-of-scale factors to consider. Automation does not fit for a wide audience. Could wireless shades be an automation element that appeals to a wider audience? Perhaps, especially since they don't require any hard-wire changes like dimmers or keypads.

I agree, we sell a small % of shades compared to controls and systems(lighting), but with the price point of the cellular shades, this is growing too. They are not for everyone, but they do work well, and if the style suits you they are quality pieces at a competitive price (even from Lutron).

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post #736 of 1021 Old 05-24-2013, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post

Just to reiterate, don't do this. I've seen this be the death of typically just the lamp, but often the control as well. It is not true that at 100% the dimmer is not dimming. Whenever you install any (modern)dimmer, you loose a tiny bit of top end which normally doesn't perceive to any noticeable light loss, but does help energy conservation (yes, even at 100%). The dimmer is basically switching on and off very fast at 100% and is not as simple as a potentiometer or rheostat like people tend to believe. If it were it would be about 10x's the size and get very hot.

Yes it will work, but I wouldn't risk my $100 dollar dimmer over a $3 CFL, get a $1 lamp instead and realize you are doing some energy conservation just by using dimmers. With LED's there is too much crap on the market to make a conclusive statement, but if it's says it's dimmable (CFL as well) it's less a risk.

I'm all for energy conservation but thinking a few CFL's are going to do it is only a % of a drop in the bucket. Average lighting bills for residences are less than 15% of the total. (don't jump on me here guys I said average), the real savings is in your heating, insulation and appliances (& for a lot of you AV equipment). I encourage you to use LED, CFL, Induction, etc. as much as you can, but please be realistic, a few regular lamps in some fixtures is going to make a dent in your bill. (...stepping off soap box now...)

Ummm...Too Late! tongue.gif

Seriously, I sort of figured this out after I cooked the second CFL in as many weeks! eek.gif

I replaced the CFL's with incadescents, and am very happy. For me, there is nothing like the dimmability of a regular old bub. For the areas where the lights are on at night-time or 14 hours during the day (kitchen cans), CFL's / LED's are fine. I just picked up 7 of the Home Depot Eco 575L for use with my CL dimmer in the kitchen, based on the tip in this thread.

Mark
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post #737 of 1021 Old 05-24-2013, 11:33 AM
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I ordered a couple too many of the LR-HWLV-HVAC pm or preferably email me if you're interested I will take another 10% of the 2 units I have in stock for AVS members. EDIT - I'll extend that 10% offer to some(3) RRD-W3BRL-WH 3-button keypads I have overstocked as well. (remember these can be changed other button counts, types, and colors when engraving is done)

touchPro Thermostat (Honeywell style)

also Lutron has some 1 & 2 zone kits, for those of you trying to save a few dollars and want to expand or just get your feet wet:
These are intended more for single room manual programmed (no-repeater) starter sets you can build on:

1 Zone Kit: 6D Dimmer, Pico, Pico wallplate adapter and 1 screwless plate
2 Zone Kit: 2x 6D Dimmer, Pico, Pico wallplate adapter and 1 screwless plate
1 Zone Plug-In Kit: 3LD Lamp Dimmer, Pico, Pico wallplate adapter and 1 screwless plate
2 Zone Plug-In Kit: 2x 3LD lamp Dimmer, Pico, Pico wallplate adapter and 1 screwless plate

If any of you remember the RA Classic Millennium(13 years ago) packages, this is kind of the same idea.

List Price savings are $11.90 and $36.90 respectively for 1 & 2 zone. Not for everyone but another few bucks in the pocket if it fits the BOM.
(if you don't plan on expanding on or to a full RR2 system this is probably not for you)

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post #738 of 1021 Old 05-24-2013, 11:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post

I agree, we sell a small % of shades compared to controls and systems(lighting), but with the price point of the cellular shades, this is growing too. They are not for everyone, but they do work well, and if the style suits you they are quality pieces at a competitive price (even from Lutron).

If it helps to sell the honeycomb shades to the "Minister of The Interior" in your household, perhaps a mult-tiered approach might make the sale?

You can use the under-mount (black-out) honeycombs that would stay raised unless you needed to darken the room. Then you use an over-mount shear or draperies (hardware options are many) that are visible all the time, but cosmetically acceptable.

Food for thought.
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post #739 of 1021 Old 05-27-2013, 12:38 PM
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So is there a DIY universal remote that I can make work with my RA2 lights? (and of course, stereo, projector etc)?
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post #740 of 1021 Old 05-27-2013, 03:32 PM
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So is there a DIY universal remote that I can make work with my RA2 lights? (and of course, stereo, projector etc)?

It's not quite that simple. Mainly because there's the possibility of hundreds of devices being involved. You can use a smart remote app like iRule and such. But I've not seen an IR remote that would be up to the task of doing it for a whole RA2 setup. But if you had a HTPC running with an IR sensor you could probably script it to recognize certain IR codes and translate those into what would end up being multiple network calls l to the RA2 network interface.
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post #741 of 1021 Old 06-28-2013, 10:55 AM
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Anybody here was able to make Radio Ra2 remote access working using port forwarding instead of VPN and willing to share details?

Thanks!
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post #742 of 1021 Old 06-28-2013, 01:11 PM
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Trouble is port forwarding only gets you to one or two devices and then only on separate ports. So if you need to talk to moremthan one device that uses the same port then youre out of luck. A vpn does not have that problem. The there are protocol issues (tcp, udp, multicast, etc) which port forwarding wont accommodate.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kokan View Post

Anybody here was able to make Radio Ra2 remote access working using port forwarding instead of VPN and willing to share details?

Thanks!

http://ra-volution.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread=227

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Trouble is port forwarding only gets you to one or two devices and then only on separate ports. So if you need to talk to moremthan one device that uses the same port then youre out of luck. A vpn does not have that problem. The there are protocol issues (tcp, udp, multicast, etc) which port forwarding wont accommodate.

General answer to a specific question.
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post #744 of 1021 Old 07-15-2013, 08:25 AM
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Hey all, I have a -6D controlling a MLV landscape lighting system. The final loads are LED, but the switch controls a transformer. Now I've noticed that sometimes the lights don't turn off when commanded. What happens is I'll press the off side of the button, and the status LEDs on the switch will show the normal "off" sequence where the LEDs turn on sequentially as it dims to off, but then they all blink, and then the switch turns back on.

I have to press the up or down sides several times before it actually stays off. This doesn't happen every time, but often enough that it's annoying. Anyone else experienced this with a dimmer?

Thanks,
Brian
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post #745 of 1021 Old 07-15-2013, 01:22 PM
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You shouldn't be using a dimmer to control a transformer. Use an 8ANS.
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post #746 of 1021 Old 07-30-2013, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Garber View Post

Hey all, I have a -6D controlling a MLV landscape lighting system. The final loads are LED, but the switch controls a transformer. Now I've noticed that sometimes the lights don't turn off when commanded. What happens is I'll press the off side of the button, and the status LEDs on the switch will show the normal "off" sequence where the LEDs turn on sequentially as it dims to off, but then they all blink, and then the switch turns back on.

I have to press the up or down sides several times before it actually stays off. This doesn't happen every time, but often enough that it's annoying. Anyone else experienced this with a dimmer?

Thanks,
Brian

Brian, this is a common problem associated with to little load on the dimmer. If you probably just replace one of the lamps back to incandescent/halogen then it will probably clear your problem or switch to the 6NA dimmer. The Regular 6D is MLV rated and is fine for landscape transformers but its listed at something like a 60watt minimum load. (check back a few posts for a chart on minimum loads and corresponding part numbers) ~ Side Note: we have found if you really need closer to 80watts for reliable use and depending on how far down you dim them, specifically with LED.

FYI, for everyone else this can sometimes also occur with cheap fluorescent ballast(s) on the RR2 switches.

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You shouldn't be using a dimmer to control a transformer. Use an 8ANS.
The 8ANS will also likely cure the problem but still has a 10watt min. There is no reason not to dim your landscape or any transformer, the 6D is designed for it assuming you are operating it withing it's spec's. That being said a good majority of landscape specific transformers include timers. Dimming the primary will mess that up. Disable or remove the timer and program timing in the software.

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post #747 of 1021 Old 08-23-2013, 02:19 PM
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Is it possible to convert a 7-button Wall-mount Designer Keypad to a 5 button, without the IR lens, and/or without the raise/lower button?

Believe nothing, no matter where you read it, or who said it, no matter if I have said it, unless it agrees with your own reason and your own common sense. -Buddha

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post #748 of 1021 Old 08-23-2013, 06:04 PM
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Possibly if you use a faceplate from a QS keypad.
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post #749 of 1021 Old 08-24-2013, 03:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post

Is it possible to convert a 7-button Wall-mount Designer Keypad to a 5 button, without the IR lens, and/or without the raise/lower button?

I have a 5 button faceplate from a QS: be glad to let you try it

Mark

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post #750 of 1021 Old 08-24-2013, 05:28 AM
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Thanks. And thanks for the offer, Mark. That's very kind, but still in the planning stages at this point. I'm currently spec'ing my kitchen remodel, trying to figure out options down the road.

Crunch time, need to make decisions.

Is switching low power circuits really this difficult with RA2? Does every low watt circuit (under cabinet LED, in-cabinet xenon) need a PHPM, for switching?

Edit - is the answer 'dim them, with the phase adaptive dimmer'?

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