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post #961 of 1192 Old 03-20-2014, 09:52 AM
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As for temp differences in winter, how are things insulated? I've heard quite a lot of stories about seriously improved situations when techniques like foam insulation were applied. Several neighbors have had foam sprayed in and had dramatic improvements in winter heat conditioning.
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post #962 of 1192 Old 03-20-2014, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wkearney99 View Post

The trick is in finding that someone.

If I hadn't already been tricked multiple times, I'd trust professionals to actually be professionals and then there's my parent's old house that was condemned because of "professional" covering stuff up and took 7 years for the judicial system to play out. So I'd rather educate myself and do it right than pay someone to not do as good a job because they don't know or care enough to do the job right. I have a great mechanic that I trust and he only works on Acura, Honda, Lexus, and Toyota. So now that I've found a true professional, I'm stuck with the brands of cars I can buy. smile.gif So I know once you find that gem, you better take care of them so they can take care of you.

In this case, I do actually have some ancillary knowledge from my woodworking dust collection system. Not the same thing but similar concerns in relation to needing ducts open or the motor will burn out.

Thanks for the info. I better do some research down this path before I decide to get a normal thermostat system.

David
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post #963 of 1192 Old 03-20-2014, 01:47 PM
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I share your sentiments, it's hard to find reliable folks in any profession. It's not impossible for a non-professional to tackle it. That hard part isn't learning the required info, it's having enough tools and time to put it all together into a viable solution.

It's been my experience that when folks have areas of specific differences in HVAC results there's usually something larger wrong with the situation. Like poorly sized ducts somewhere, or mis-connected ones, or even the wrong kind of system. Thus my caution regarding the notion of sticking dampers in the mix somewhere. Finding out why those rooms aren't conditioned effectively would be my first thought. Have a plan for solving that first and then look to see what gizmos can be applied.

Could be as simple as a problem we had in the old house; someone had buried a manual damper behind a ceiling bulkhead (and it was 70% closed). It would have been dead simple for someone with a duct camera to find. Curiously the duct cleaning folks didn't discover it because their brush passed in along the direction of the vane and didn't get caught. I've got plenty of tools but as yet no cameras for ducts or plumbing. I'd have been more than willing to cut holes in the bulkhead had I know there was even a damper in there!

I'm eventually going to add an dust collecting system for my workshop. But I've got a whole lot more organizing and unpacking to do first! At some point I do want to revisit how to use RA2 to handle a blower motor. I tried using one on our range hood but it didn't work reliably (8ANS is probably not the right switch). Again, that's one of those 'round tuit' things...
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post #964 of 1192 Old 04-14-2014, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by shaun5 View Post

I am curious what everyone is looking for in an app and if what I have is marketable....

I wrote a web app almost 4 years ago for my Ra2 system: Interface has sliders for dimmers, buttons for switches/scenes, scene recorder that records the state of all the switches/ dimmers that can be altered and 'played back' , 2 way communication for all the dimmers/buttons/scenes. Server side interlocks (turn one light on/off and it turns another on/off), conditional logic for occupancy.

I have completely rewritten my app to run on a Raspberry Pi which will cut the cost by 1/3 to a plug and use system. If anyone is interested in adding my additional functionality (or the functionality suggested by others) to a RA2 system send me a PM...
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post #965 of 1192 Old 04-19-2014, 05:33 PM
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that will be good for the lighting system conprar a radiora 2 or q because I get control4 HC250 controller or get the lighting system control4


Enviado desde mi iPhone con Tapatalk
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post #966 of 1192 Old 04-25-2014, 01:17 PM
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Not sure if it's OK to post for sale items here, but thought it might get more interest than posting in the classifieds.

We are no longer installing RA2 and have some left over items in our stock and some items taken from our show home. PM me if any one is interested.

2 LRD-WST-F-WH SEE TEMP NIB $90/EACH
3 TEMP SENSORS NIB $25/EACH
1 LR-HWLV-HVAC HONEYWELL TOUCH PRO T-STAT NIB $200
1 LR HVAC-1-WH HVAC CONTROLLER NIB $100
1 LR HVAC-1-WH HVAC CONTROLLER DEMO $50
1 RR-15APS-1 USED $40
3 LRF2-OCRB-P-WH OCC SENSORS USED $25/EACH
1 5 BUTTON PICO LIGHT ALMOND NEW/OPENED $20
3 RRD-6D-WH USED $50/EACH
1 MA-AS ACCESSORY SWITCH WHITE NIB/OPENED $20
2 RRD 8ANS-LA USED $50/EACH
3 RRD 10D-WH NEW/OPENED $90/EACH
1 RRD 8ANS-WH NEW/OPENED $75

I would rather sell and ship the whole lot. $750 for everything shipped CONUS.
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post #967 of 1192 Old 04-25-2014, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ELECTRICDON View Post

Not sure if it's OK to post for sale items here, but thought it might get more interest than posting in the classifieds.

We are no longer installing RA2 and have some left over items in our stock and some items taken from our show home. PM me if any one is interested.

2 LRD-WST-F-WH SEE TEMP NIB $90/EACH
3 TEMP SENSORS NIB $25/EACH
1 LR-HWLV-HVAC HONEYWELL TOUCH PRO T-STAT NIB $200
1 LR HVAC-1-WH HVAC CONTROLLER NIB $100
1 LR HVAC-1-WH HVAC CONTROLLER DEMO $50
1 RR-15APS-1 USED $40
3 LRF2-OCRB-P-WH OCC SENSORS USED $25/EACH
1 5 BUTTON PICO LIGHT ALMOND NEW/OPENED $20
3 RRD-6D-WH USED $50/EACH
1 MA-AS ACCESSORY SWITCH WHITE NIB/OPENED $20
2 RRD 8ANS-LA USED $50/EACH
3 RRD 10D-WH NEW/OPENED $90/EACH
1 RRD 8ANS-WH NEW/OPENED $75

I would rather sell and ship the whole lot. $750 for everything shipped CONUS.

You've got another PM. smile.gif
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post #968 of 1192 Old 04-25-2014, 05:24 PM
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SOLD IT ALL, THANKS!
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post #969 of 1192 Old 05-16-2014, 10:05 AM
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New, RR2 news hot off the press....

http://app.lutron.info/e/es.aspx?s=1581&e=25291&elq=91e8a78ebf214e4bb13060fcd6d28125

Best new thing from my POV is the 0-10v Dimming modules (not Wall dimmer)...

Paul W.
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Hanks Electrical Supply

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post #970 of 1192 Old 05-16-2014, 10:11 AM
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And the bad part is the new components, including the new RF contact closure appear to be for the inclusive level only.
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post #971 of 1192 Old 05-16-2014, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post

Best new thing from my POV is the 0-10v Dimming modules (not Wall dimmer)...
How would one of these be used for controlling stuff like LED light tape, which are typically driven by either 12 or 24 vdc? I'm clearly missing something regarding the 'balllast' part of it.
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post #972 of 1192 Old 05-19-2014, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by wkearney99 View Post

How would one of these be used for controlling stuff like LED light tape, which are typically driven by either 12 or 24 vdc? I'm clearly missing something regarding the 'balllast' part of it.

I need them for Exterior Heater Controls, but they could also be used for 0-10v dimming. Some of the better dimming drivers for LED and CFL required a 0-10v reference signal to scale the dimming. In these cases these drivers or ballasts have a separate 2 wire connection for this 0-10v signal. More common in industrial control, but also fairly common in Fluorescent Dimming as well some of the first dimmable LED drivers. It seems that most of these systems are able to get closer to 100% dimming, but undesirable due to the additional wiring and in some cases and additional relays as well. In some cases you need a switch to turn on the driver and a 0-10v (dimmer) to adjust. It all depends on the Driver mnf. whether the 0v signal will just be that or turn the driver off as well...

It's definitely not something we do everyday but I've worked out a custom circuit with the help of a controls mnf. to convert a 6NA dimmer to to a 0-5v for their specific SSR's that allow me to control 6kw heaters via a dimmer or keypad which is really nice because we can have a simple keypad out side know vs. the archaic large rotary type intensity controls common to those exterior heaters. Of coarse the Dimmers and SSR's are hidden neatly in a control cabinet somewhere.

In this pic. we are controlling 4 groups of 2x 2500watt heaters in a small restaurants patio. The Dimmer is shown here, but these are placed remotely in the restaurant, the control panel is on the roof and we have a keypad programmed for toggling each of the 4 groups, a preset scene with all 4, an "all off", plus Raise Lower for the main "local" control. A timer included in the programming shuts everything off after business hours so the employees don't forget to shut off 20,000 watts of heat.


Paul W.
'Lutron Grafik Eye & Radio Ra Specialist - or anything Lutron'
Hanks Electrical Supply

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post #973 of 1192 Old 05-19-2014, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by intake View Post

And the bad part is the new components, including the new RF contact closure appear to be for the inclusive level only.

I didn't notice that, but I'm usually always in Inclusive. Price / feature wise it may still make more sense to use the VCRX vs. the CCO. The CCO only has only 1 SPDT out put, so you would like have to buy two for a lot of 3rd party shades, blinds, skylights, etc... But if they work off a simple 3wire control then maybe just one. And no input on the CCO. The CCO's should (don't quote me) price out price out about 1/3 the price of a VCRX but if you can use any of the other features on the VCRX you get more bang for the buck.

Maybe it will pop up in essentials later. But hey, I checked last week and they still aren't shipping and the 6CL dimmers took almost 1/2 year from announcement to shipping.

Paul W.
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Hanks Electrical Supply

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post #974 of 1192 Old 05-20-2014, 11:32 AM
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I've installed a Radio Ra2 system in our house and have been using for about six months. I would like to add the following but are stuck on the solution.

1) Bathroom has multiple Ra switches that control an all in one heat/light/exhaust fan. The light and exhaust fan switches are fine but I need a higher Amp setup for the heat circuit. The current switch gets too warm to the touch.

I'm thinking that the Ra2 switch needs to control a relay which then is wired to the heat circuit?

What relay would be the best in this situation? Any suggestions for other best solutions?

2) Outdoor switches for pool and hot tub light and pool pump and hot tub motor. Currently the switches are standard toggle switches mounted in a waterproof housing. No easy way to move the wiring indoors to install Ra2 switches as the switches are located outside by the pool.

I wanted to install Ra2 switches outside so that a 4 button controller in the house could turn the lights on and off to the pool.

Alfred--
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post #975 of 1192 Old 05-20-2014, 01:07 PM
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First make sure the distance out to those switches will work. If you're brave just use a work box and make a temporary setup. If they work out in that location then you shouldn't really have any trouble using them as replacements for the lights. The pump motor, however, might be an issue.

Which model RA2 unit were you using with the ceiling heater?
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post #976 of 1192 Old 06-17-2014, 09:50 AM
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Triathlon Shades

I'm thinking about adding the Triathlon Honeycomb shades to my RA2 system.


For those that have these, how are they holding up? Where's the best place to buy these?


Thanks,
Dino
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post #977 of 1192 Old 06-18-2014, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aharding View Post
I need a higher Amp setup for the heat circuit. The current switch gets too warm to the touch.

I'm thinking that the Ra2 switch needs to control a relay which then is wired to the heat circuit?

What relay would be the best in this situation? Any suggestions for other best solutions?

2) Outdoor switches for pool and hot tub light and pool pump and hot tub motor. Currently the switches are standard toggle switches mounted in a waterproof housing. No easy way to move the wiring indoors to install Ra2 switches as the switches are located outside by the pool.

I wanted to install Ra2 switches outside so that a 4 button controller in the house could turn the lights on and off to the pool.

The RRD-8ANS is only 8amps = 960watts, most bathroom ceiling heaters are at least 1200-1500watts.

We sell/use a small cube relay rated for 30amps that would be perfect.

As for the pool equipment, I'm actually about to do the same thing at my house. Seeing as at least the motors will need relays I was just going to use a VCRX. Relays are cheap and now I can control up to 4 items via 3rd party relays and a control transformer. The VCRX should cost about the same as at least 2 switches/dimmers so there's your savings (assuming you do not have a need to dim the light). For me I have Pool Pump, hot-tub/pool valve, light and heater. It's going to work perfect, you can schedule with a timer and either use a Pico, Wired keypad or virtual keypad to control, assuming you have range from the Main (or Aux.) repeater to where you have to mount the VCRX (or Switches).

Paul W.
'Lutron Grafik Eye & Radio Ra Specialist - or anything Lutron'
Hanks Electrical Supply

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post #978 of 1192 Old 06-18-2014, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by DMILANI View Post
I'm thinking about adding the Triathlon Honeycomb shades to my RA2 system.


For those that have these, how are they holding up? Where's the best place to buy these?


Thanks,
Dino
LMK, Dino I can help. My parents have these in there home in direct full sun for about 3 years now. Still works great, still quiet, and still on the same batteries. (only 1 up/down cycle per day). They don't have a RR system, just on Pico's, but can be controlled by a system if they ever decide to add one.

Roller's are also now available. I'm about ready to order some rollers for our new place, we have the same problem, full sun direct in the kitchen just when you want to prepare for dinner.

Paul W.
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Hanks Electrical Supply

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post #979 of 1192 Old 06-18-2014, 10:01 AM
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Thanks Paul.


The roller shades are a bit more expensive than the honeycomb, correct?
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post #980 of 1192 Old 06-19-2014, 06:56 AM
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Yes they are. I think they are still reasonable for a motorized shade though...

Paul W.
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Hanks Electrical Supply

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post #981 of 1192 Old 06-20-2014, 10:03 AM
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Thanks Paul.


The roller shades are a bit more expensive than the honeycomb, correct?
The rollers aren't too bad - we've ordered one for a large sliding door for around $1300 installed... for windows they are more like $1000 each... This is for fairly basic material, not the fancy prints. You can easily spend that much or more on non-motorized window treatments.
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post #982 of 1192 Old 06-20-2014, 10:28 AM
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Thanks rapamatic. I'd be doing my own installation, so the cost should be a little less.


I think I'm leaning toward the honeycomb shades now. How much approx. for a 3'x5' window? I'm hoping it's closer to $500 or $600.


Dino
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post #983 of 1192 Old 06-23-2014, 08:55 AM
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Thanks rapamatic. I'd be doing my own installation, so the cost should be a little less.


I think I'm leaning toward the honeycomb shades now. How much approx. for a 3'x5' window? I'm hoping it's closer to $500 or $600.


Dino
Actually less for the most basic / common materials on the Honeycomb. Pick out a fabric and send me some exact dimensions/mount...

Paul W.
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Hanks Electrical Supply

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post #984 of 1192 Old 06-25-2014, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aharding View Post

2) Outdoor switches for pool and hot tub light and pool pump and hot tub motor. Currently the switches are standard toggle switches mounted in a waterproof housing. No easy way to move the wiring indoors to install Ra2 switches as the switches are located outside by the pool.
So here was my solution. [VCRX CCO output (#)'s]
(1) Main Pump Relay/Contactor. I used a 3 pole, the 3rd pole disconnects the valves and heater controls(24vac) so they will not work if the pump isn't running
(2) DPDT Relay which switch the Valve actuators from Spa to Pool, also the second pole switches either the pool or spa heater depending on the valve position.
(3) Heater relays (pool & spa), turns on heater selected by valve position above.
(4) Pool/Spa Lights




Control will be mainly from timer in the Main repeater or Inside Keypad. Exterior Override switch will be wired to the CCI's on the VCRX when we wrap this up so the pool cleaner can run the pump and switch the valve.

Paul W.
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Hanks Electrical Supply

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post #985 of 1192 Old 06-26-2014, 07:42 PM
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Help! I have been bitten by the lighting control bug! So, I am designing my system now and have one question. I just completed the online training and have been playing around with the Essential software. One item I notice missing is an automated lighting schedule. Is that possible with RadioRA2? For instance, if I want a light to be on automatically from 7pm to 10pm, is there a way to integrate that into the system? I know it is possible with Insteon and seperate controller but frankly there products look very cheap to me and I am turned off by the quality issues. I plan to integrate the lighting system with our Crestron system which is as of now only running the theater and whole home audio. Thoughts or advice? Appreciate any.
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post #986 of 1192 Old 06-26-2014, 10:57 PM
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Help! I have been bitten by the lighting control bug! So, I am designing my system now and have one question. I just completed the online training and have been playing around with the Essential software. One item I notice missing is an automated lighting schedule. Is that possible with RadioRA2? For instance, if I want a light to be on automatically from 7pm to 10pm, is there a way to integrate that into the system? I know it is possible with Insteon and seperate controller but frankly there products look very cheap to me and I am turned off by the quality issues. I plan to integrate the lighting system with our Crestron system which is as of now only running the theater and whole home audio. Thoughts or advice? Appreciate any.
Under the Program tab, you'll see "Timeclock" next to the "Keypads" tab...

That should keep you busy for a while.

Jeff


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post #987 of 1192 Old 06-27-2014, 07:36 AM
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Ah, thanks so much. Should have known that!
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post #988 of 1192 Old 06-27-2014, 08:10 AM
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An issue I'm having is that there is a remote dimmer (RD-RD) at the bottom of my garage stairs outside the exterior door leading into the basement. I have no visual indicator that the light is in fact turned off when I shut my extrior door after leaving the basement in to the garage. It would be nice if the RD-RS and RD-RD had the LED's on them.

ERIC
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post #989 of 1192 Old 06-27-2014, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by trx250r87 View Post
An issue I'm having is that there is a remote dimmer (RD-RD) at the bottom of my garage stairs outside the exterior door leading into the basement. I have no visual indicator that the light is in fact turned off when I shut my extrior door after leaving the basement in to the garage. It would be nice if the RD-RS and RD-RD had the LED's on them.
Yep, it would be. The dimmer's the only one that shows the LED. Had I know that I would have double-checked how the electrician wired up my outside floodlights. Now I've got a dimmer (a hybrid actually) stuck upstairs and no-light remotes down where I'd care most about seeing an indicator.

One work-around is to use a keypad and set one of the buttons as a toggle for that dimmer. You don't need the traveler wire connected for the remote switch. The keypad would be controlling the dimmer via RF. Downside is the keypad certainly costs more than a remote dimmer.
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post #990 of 1192 Old 06-28-2014, 10:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trx250r87 View Post
An issue I'm having is that there is a remote dimmer (RD-RD) at the bottom of my garage stairs outside the exterior door leading into the basement. I have no visual indicator that the light is in fact turned off when I shut my extrior door after leaving the basement in to the garage. It would be nice if the RD-RS and RD-RD had the LED's on them.

ERIC
What model is the main switch? If it's a non keypad model or if you are not using a neutral, the dimmer can live anywhere in the circuit, so move it to be near the door in question.

Also consider adding a time clock event to turn off the light should it be accidentally left on.

I agree; feedback on remote switches would be nice. I have a remote switch (RD-RS) that is like that for exterior floods, but fortunately, it is within sight of the lights in question.
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