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post #991 of 1018 Old 06-30-2014, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by intake View Post
Also consider adding a time clock event to turn off the light should it be accidentally left on.
I use this one a lot, depending on the client I typically always have a full off (maybe less a porch light or something) every night at an agreed upon time. If you are using this time-clock feature consider the suspend keypad logic on a button somewhere for times when you'd like to bypass it...

Also, for Status on a 3-way... The first and the latest models (PJ2....) of Pico's have an LED indicator. I haven't tested one for this purpose, but they are even cheaper than an RD or RS (or about the same with wallbox adapter). Downside/trade-off would again be the 3yr battery life.

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post #992 of 1018 Old 06-30-2014, 11:49 AM
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Heh, my 3am 'all off' timeclock event has reminded me, more than once, to GO TO BED.

One nice touch is to set some lighting along a path a longer fade or a delay (they're different). As in, set most lights to go off right away, but leave a couple of them with a 5-10 second fade time. That or use the default 2 second fade but add a 5-10 delay for just those lights. This way anyone present at the time will see most of the lights go out but still be able to make their way before everything's out.
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post #993 of 1018 Old 06-30-2014, 10:12 PM
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Heh, my 3am 'all off' timeclock event has reminded me, more than once, to GO TO BED.
+1

I do a 60 second fade at 3 AM.
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post #994 of 1018 Old 06-30-2014, 10:22 PM
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+1

I do a 60 second fade at 3 AM.
I prefer using the delay as some of my lighting is LED (which sometimes has issues with dimming). I seem to recall there was a dance you had to go through in the software to enable showing the delay column...
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post #995 of 1018 Old 07-01-2014, 07:18 AM
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Simple question. Just purchased a house that will at some point, go through renovation. There are a number of switches, dimmers and similar items that are addressed with Lutron tech that need immediate replacement. We will be going with a AMX home control system, but only when we do the whole house renovation. I see that AMX sells their own co-branded Lutron controls. Is there any reason one must go with the AMX co branded kit, or can I just use the RadioRA2?

Thank you
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post #996 of 1018 Old 07-01-2014, 08:06 AM
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I seem to recall there was a dance you had to go through in the software to enable showing the delay column...
Nothing fancy, just right click and use advanced settings. However, if you don't have the software, you can enter APM with walk around programming, but that would be maddening!

yetis, no idea really, but they do say Lutron Clear Connect enabled and do appear to just be Lutron part numbers with different prefixes and I'd guess they would work. They may load the main repeater with some different technology, but I doubt it. I'd call lutron and AMX to be sure.
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post #997 of 1018 Old 07-01-2014, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by schalliol View Post
yetis, no idea really, but they do say Lutron Clear Connect enabled and do appear to just be Lutron part numbers with different prefixes and I'd guess they would work. They may load the main repeater with some different technology, but I doubt it. I'd call lutron and AMX to be sure.
Actually I think the AMX stuff uses a quite different main repeater. The official line is that they are not cross compatible, but someone has used an AMX ccd dimmer with a ra2 system and it was 99% compatible. AMX should have a driver for ra2, in which case best to stick with that.
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post #998 of 1018 Old 07-02-2014, 07:08 AM
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Actually I think the AMX stuff uses a quite different main repeater. The official line is that they are not cross compatible, but someone has used an AMX ccd dimmer with a ra2 system and it was 99% compatible. AMX should have a driver for ra2, in which case best to stick with that.
I can't speak for AMX but I know any other time Lutron has done anything like that(URC) they are not compatible and you don't get access to the full lutron line of options. I would use the RR2 and integrate it into the AMX if possible or by 3rd party. Otherwise you will be married to and limited to what AMX has to offer in terms of dimming options.

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post #999 of 1018 Old 07-02-2014, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post
I can't speak for AMX but I know any other time Lutron has done anything like that(URC) they are not compatible and you don't get access to the full lutron line of options. I would use the RR2 and integrate it into the AMX if possible or by 3rd party. Otherwise you will be married to and limited to what AMX has to offer in terms of dimming options.

Yes, I think you could be correct. They seem to have their own version of wireless.

http://www.amx.com/products/NXB-CCG.asp. While in the same breath, say its clear connect enabled... You don't see them using any of the Lutron wireless links, Grafik Eye, etc.

This seems to suggest something unique.
" The AMX Clear Connect Wireless Gateway connects NetLinx Controllers with Lutron's Clear Connect Dimmers, Switches, Occupancy/Vacancy Sensors and Keypads that are sold by AMX*"

Sort of a PITA, as their offering is very limited.
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post #1000 of 1018 Old 07-02-2014, 01:23 PM
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Yeah, Maestro Wireless uses the same tech but are intentionally incompatible. So, it could go either way
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post #1001 of 1018 Old 07-02-2014, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by yetis View Post
Yes, I think you could be correct. They seem to have their own version of wireless.
FWIW, I see or hear from a lot of people that will go Control4, URC, etc.. and all of a sudden they need a special dimmer that that company doesn't offer and they're stuck because they've invested heavily in that system. RR2 does have some limitations but for the cost, ease and breadth of product I would rather recommend integrating with the 3rd parties rather than getting stuck with them. A lot of those companies main focus is not in lighting control and if you have the option to integrate I think it makes more sense to do so and not be locked down.

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post #1002 of 1018 Old 07-03-2014, 02:09 PM
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I've just installed my first set of RA2 dimmers for my home theater, and I have one that does not seem to be working properly. It is a RRD-6D dimmer that I have connected to an MLV transformer for powering and dimming some LED strip lights. I currently do not have the LEDs connected, only the dimmer connected to the transformer. The LED status lights on the dimmer flash on and off, and the transformer is giving no signs that it is powered on. The indicating lights turn on, turn off, turn on and then fade a bit before turning back off, then it repeats, seemingly indefinitely.

Is this a sign or a bad dimmer, or is there something else going on?

Dude, are you made of leprechauns? Cause that was awesome!

The Plains Theater Has Begun
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post #1003 of 1018 Old 07-03-2014, 09:22 PM
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Has anyone tried using a 2 button pico as a toe activated switch?
(Turned on its side up against a cabinet toe kick, so you can "poke" it with a big toe.)

I am planning a RadioRA2 install and realized the lights over the kitchen sink drive me crazy. The switch is several steps away from the sink and it never fails that my hands are a wet mess when I realize its dark and want light.

I could replace the switch with a RRD-6CL, and put a pico on a pedestal on the counter. Then its no steps.

But maybe... I could make it hands-free with a gentle toe kick to a pico mounted on its side, glued in with a 3M command strip.
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post #1004 of 1018 Old 07-03-2014, 09:34 PM
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For the 6D, is there enough load with the transformer and no fixture?

I like the toe kick idea! A single button Pico (that doesn't exist) would be preferred though). Maybe two two buttons with each of the two on one Pico having on or each having off.

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post #1005 of 1018 Old 07-03-2014, 10:09 PM
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Why not just do an occupancy sensor? I like the Pico idea, but I'm guessing it will be more cumbersome than you think and if it's on a hard floor, it will probably get damaged by the mop. Occupancy sensor can be aimed just at your sink area. The LRF2-OCR2B-P-WH is surprising cheap and accessible on Amazon.
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post #1006 of 1018 Old 07-03-2014, 10:33 PM
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Why not just do an occupancy sensor? I like the Pico idea, but I'm guessing it will be more cumbersome than you think and if it's on a hard floor, it will probably get damaged by the mop.
Maybe so, but the two button pico has a list price of $58. If I mount it just above the floor its probably going to be fine for several years. If it fails, it was only ~$58.

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Occupancy sensor can be aimed just at your sink area. The LRF2-OCR2B-P-WH is surprising cheap and accessible on Amazon.
Oh, cute. Walk up to sink, its on, walk away, its off. Haha!

This may not work well in my kitchen. The cone would have to be very narrow to get to the sink only and not pick up foot traffic on the other side of the sink (its in a high traffic peninsula).

I also get pretty good daylight, so most of the day we don't really need the overheads. During the day I only want them on briefly if I am scrubbing a pan and want to make sure I got it clean. At night, I often but don't always want them on when I am at the sink. For example loading the dishwasher with late night snack items doesn't need the overheads, the dishwasher has its own internal LEDs that are sufficient for adding a couple of glasses and snack dishes before running its program. And I especially don't want them on during that late night loading, as I am heading to bed and already spent some time adjusting to darkened rooms.

I think if I do put a sensor in, I would just run it as a vacancy sensor for the kitchen.
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post #1007 of 1018 Old 07-07-2014, 06:42 AM
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Is this a sign or a bad dimmer, or is there something else going on?
This is just a sign of not enough load. You'll need 50watt minimum, or a bit more if you want to keep it dimmed low... If you continue to have problems or cannot come up to min, load requirements, switch to a 6NA or add a hidden/dummy load.

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post #1008 of 1018 Old 07-07-2014, 06:57 AM
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Has anyone tried using a 2 button pico as a toe activated switch?
(Turned on its side up against a cabinet toe kick, so you can "poke" it with a big toe.)...

....But maybe... I could make it hands-free with a gentle toe kick to a pico mounted on its side, glued in with a 3M command strip.
I love this idea, I don't know how crafty you are but creating some wood levers to not only make a larger target but also create a mechanical limit as to not destroy the pico might be an idea. Anyone handy with a #D printer yet, might be a neat project

& Please don't pay $58 for a Pico email me: [paul (at) Hankselectric (dot) net],

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post #1009 of 1018 Old 07-07-2014, 11:17 AM
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I haven't used the daylight sensors with occupancy sensors. Do the daylight sensors work with RR2? They would be a candidate.

One more idea, a low-mounted occupancy sensor, vs a ceiling mount! How about putting one inside a cabinet door with a "hole" for the sensor to see directionally out in front?

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post #1010 of 1018 Old 07-08-2014, 05:24 PM
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I haven't used the daylight sensors with occupancy sensors. Do the daylight sensors work with RR2? They would be a candidate.

One more idea, a low-mounted occupancy sensor, vs a ceiling mount! How about putting one inside a cabinet door with a "hole" for the sensor to see directionally out in front?
Apparently the daylight package is required, which is much more complex. Anyone used one?
Lutron Daylight and RR2
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post #1011 of 1018 Old 07-08-2014, 06:38 PM
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The RA2 sensors I've used have a setting on them to detect whether there's enough light or not. Got one on the front porch (up on the ceiling, well protected) and that setting keeps it from enabling the lights when there's already enough daylight.

As for the Pico idea, why not use a contact closure input on the VCRX instead? Sure, it'll cost a bit more, but then you can use any number of safer or more durable switches positioned where ever you need.

Personally, I don't like automatic control for lighting in most situations. Especially not for a high traffic area or a place whose lighting might vary depending on the tasks. Sometimes you want the lights on high even when there's enough other lighting, to better illuminate whatever it is you're trying to do. Automation is cool and all, but done wrong it can really be annoying. If not to you, to the wife...

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post #1012 of 1018 Old Yesterday, 07:55 AM
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Quick question that may have been answered in this thread, but I can't find it if it was:

I'm interested in picking up a RR-VCRX-WH to integrate our cars' HomeLink controllers with another automation system. Will this work out-of-the box, or do I have to have a Lutron controller in addition? Also, will I need to have a Lutron visor controller to program the VCRX, or will I be able to just handle the programming from my cars' built-in controllers?

Thanks in advance.
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post #1013 of 1018 Old Yesterday, 10:05 AM
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What is it you expect to integrate with? It's likely you'll also need a main repeater, as that would handle the RA2 wireless connection from the VCRX to a wired Ethernet connection.
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post #1014 of 1018 Old Yesterday, 10:23 AM
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I was planning on just taking the contact closure outputs of the VCRX to digital inputs of a Crestron system.
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post #1015 of 1018 Old Today, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fuzzy bee View Post
Quick question that may have been answered in this thread, but I can't find it if it was:

I'm interested in picking up a RR-VCRX-WH to integrate our cars' HomeLink controllers with another automation system. Will this work out-of-the box, or do I have to have a Lutron controller in addition? Also, will I need to have a Lutron visor controller to program the VCRX, or will I be able to just handle the programming from my cars' built-in controllers?

Thanks in advance.
The VCRX should work "out of the box" and if it is a "Homelink" you should be good to go without using one of Lutrons Transmitters. You can manually set it up for the Homelink to operate the CCO(s). Sometimes without a main repeater you may notice a delay on other components, but in this case the RF portion is actually unique between the VCRX and transmitter.

I would follow to add that I'm sure there are plenty of other ways to do the same thing a lot cheaper, though they may not be "homelink" enabled...

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post #1016 of 1018 Old Today, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post
The VCRX should work "out of the box" and if it is a "Homelink" you should be good to go without using one of Lutrons Transmitters. You can manually set it up for the Homelink to operate the CCO(s). Sometimes without a main repeater you may notice a delay on other components, but in this case the RF portion is actually unique between the VCRX and transmitter.

I would follow to add that I'm sure there are plenty of other ways to do the same thing a lot cheaper, though they may not be "homelink" enabled...
Thanks for the response. What were you thinking about with the "plenty of other ways to do the same thing a lot cheaper"?
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post #1017 of 1018 Old Today, 02:23 PM
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There are plenty of simple key fob based contact closures out there, most of them around $20 if you just need simple contact closure. If you have to use the "Homelink" then you may be more limited.

I'm not endorsing this link or company, just an example/first google hit. (there's less expensive ones out there. I've used some of Rentron's kits for extreme distances in the past, but not all are FCC "legal")
Just need to add a simple 12vdc power supply for 110v use.
http://www.carhidkits.com/wireless-c...itter-432.html

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post #1018 of 1018 Old Today, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post
There are plenty of simple key fob based contact closures out there, most of them around $20 if you just need simple contact closure. If you have to use the "Homelink" then you may be more limited.

I'm not endorsing this link or company, just an example/first google hit. (there's less expensive ones out there. I've used some of Rentron's kits for extreme distances in the past, but not all are FCC "legal")
Just need to add a simple 12vdc power supply for 110v use.
http://www.carhidkits.com/wireless-c...itter-432.html
Thanks again. I'll probably stick with the Lutron piece, because we're already sporting 2 fobs each on our keychain.
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