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post #1021 of 1035 Old 07-11-2014, 07:59 AM
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Nice! I hadn't thought to look at other manufacturers. Thanks!
To be honest, since most anything today is homelink compatible, I bet you could walk into a home depot or Lowes and get a similar kit - it would be sold as a universal wireless kit or something like that for a garage door opener... I bet Amazon would have this for a good price too.
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post #1022 of 1035 Old 07-11-2014, 05:32 PM
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Are the RadioRa2 digital switches really more expensive than the dimmers? Everyone one I have received a quote from has the RRD-8S significantly more expensive than the RRD-6CL dimmer. Maybe it is because it is dual voltage? Have a bunch of lights that don't really need a dimmer, example outdoor house and patio but are dimmable if it is a cheaper option. Some locations don't have a neutral wire and I am not concerned about wattage minimum so I was gonna go with the 8S switches. Any suggestions?

Thanks
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post #1023 of 1035 Old 07-11-2014, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by A&M 350Z View Post
Are the RadioRa2 digital switches really more expensive than the dimmers? Everyone one I have received a quote from has the RRD-8S significantly more expensive than the RRD-6CL dimmer. Maybe it is because it is dual voltage? Have a bunch of lights that don't really need a dimmer, example outdoor house and patio but are dimmable if it is a cheaper option. Some locations don't have a neutral wire and I am not concerned about wattage minimum so I was gonna go with the 8S switches. Any suggestions?
Do you need the dual voltage support? If not, use the RRD-8ANS as long as you have a neutral. But for locations without neutral that CAN be dimmed and meet the load minimums, use the -6CL... The -8ANS is the same MSRP as the -6CL.

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post #1024 of 1035 Old Yesterday, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by jautor View Post
Do you need the dual voltage support? If not, use the RRD-8ANS as long as you have a neutral. But for locations without neutral that CAN be dimmed and meet the load minimums, use the -6CL... The -8ANS is the same MSRP as the -6CL.

Jeff
Ok, thanks. Do not need dual voltage so will use the 8ans or 6cl when can be dimmed. I assumed switches would be a little less expensive than the dimmers.

One other question. When replacing a standard 3 way switch with a dimmable load, due I just use 1 dimmer such as 6cl and 1 remote dimmer at the second switch? Does it matter the location of the dimmer vs remote dimmer? (EDIT: I see dimmer must be installed on load side but still confused how to replace 3 way switch). The traveler wire would be connected to the blue screw correct?

Thanks again.

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post #1025 of 1035 Old Yesterday, 08:07 AM
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The dimmer goes in the location that has the load wires leading to the lighting. Take that into consideration. You can use a dimmer with multiple remote dimmers. I've got one with three (outside floodlights). Same thing with the switch.

Who's doing your lighting plan? There's a lot to lighting that bears having advice. I'm well acquainted with all this gear but the time I paid to have a lighting consultant do a walk-through was WELL worth it. We tweaked placement of a few fixtures, add/omitted some and she even caught the fact the electrical sub had installed all the wrong cans. So give it some thought.

That and where are you planning on putting keypads? With automated lighting they're definitely worthwhile.
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post #1026 of 1035 Old Yesterday, 08:26 AM
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The dimmer goes in the location that has the load wires leading to the lighting. Take that into consideration. You can use a dimmer with multiple remote dimmers. I've got one with three (outside floodlights). Same thing with the switch.

Who's doing your lighting plan? There's a lot to lighting that bears having advice. I'm well acquainted with all this gear but the time I paid to have a lighting consultant do a walk-through was WELL worth it. We tweaked placement of a few fixtures, add/omitted some and she even caught the fact the electrical sub had installed all the wrong cans. So give it some thought.

That and where are you planning on putting keypads? With automated lighting they're definitely worthwhile.
Got it. I think I was confused because on the Lutron sight it says a 3-way switch is not compatible with multiple location dimming. I guess they mean a dimmer and regular switch on the same line. You must replace the 3 way switches with dimmer and remote dimmer. Location makes sense.

This is a simple retrofit, basically replacing mostly standard Maestro dimmers and a few switches with RadioRa2 products. Would definitely use lighting consultant on larger project.

Yes, we will use keypads, starting with 3 hybrid at common locations.
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post #1027 of 1035 Old Yesterday, 10:50 AM
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The lighting load is controlled either by a switch or a dimmer. Either can have a remote connected. Technically I think you can use remote switches on dimmers and vice versa. Obviously you'd lose any dimmer control at that location if you used a remote switch on it. But, suffice to say, don't do that nor expect it to actually work. Use the right combination.

When using keypads I'm of the opinion it's a good plan to not depend on using ONLY a keypad when the location is a primary entry to a space. As in, having a paddle switch to avoid making for added effort trying to determine which tiny little keypad button to press. There's no 'rule' that says this is required, just some advice I think worth passing along. I do have two locations where a keypad is the only device; one is on the kitchen island backsplash, the other is a bedroom. On the island it works because it's not the primary lighting control for the room. In the bedroom, however, it's a mistake. Unfortunately the segment of wall at that location prevented using a 3-gang box. I need one of them for fan control, so I had to use the other position for a hybrid. I'm in the process of rectifying this by moving the fan control to a remote location and using the keypad buttons to control it's speed. This will give me back the 2nd location to use for the primary room lighting. Darned shame they don't make a RA2 canopy fan control...
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post #1028 of 1035 Old Yesterday, 11:00 AM
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Here is an example of a main switch with a keypad in the kitchen. Makes it easy to control the main light and then the keypad is the same around the room (3 hybrid keypads around kitchen). The main switch and top button of the keypad control the same lights so no fumbling for a keypad button in he dark. Since this is a hybrid keypad, I was able to work around bad wiring locations and control loads while still having access to those lights from any of the 3 keypads. In other words, by using the hybrid keypads, I was able to save money and clean up effort as I would have otherwise had to run some additional wires to get 3-ways correct like I wanted them. Hybrid keypads saved that hassle; looks and works so much better.

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post #1029 of 1035 Old Yesterday, 11:08 AM
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Yes, and also consider you can use a keypad (only) instead of a remote device. It's not actually wired as part of the circuit, it's just the keypad sending an RF command to the circuit's dimmer. Or use a hybrid for something else wired through there and not use any of it's buttons to control the load. I've got one set up that way because the electrician wired the floodlight load to someplace I don't want to use for controlling it. A keypad elsewhere (and the remote dimmers) control the floods. The hybrid's just doing the load control while the buttons control other stuff (ceiling fan, scenes).

I may swap out another remote dimmer with a keypad to open up some more button options.
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post #1030 of 1035 Old Yesterday, 11:38 AM
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Thanks guys, good tips. Since it is a retrofit, I think I will have to use they keypads to control some loads. Otherwise, would have to expand every junction box and some are already 3 gang.

What would you guys suggest I do with my master bedroom which has a 2 gang with 1 dimmer for recessed and a dual dimmer for fan and seperate chandelier? Expand to 3 gang with hybrid, dimmer and fan control?

dgage, are those the temporary stickers on the keypad?
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post #1031 of 1035 Old Yesterday, 12:12 PM
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That's pretty much the same problem I have in a bedroom. 2 gang and needing 3 devices.

The RA2 fan control requires 1 gang. No combo fan/light exists (unfortunately). It controls only the fan, not the light. So there needs to be another device 'somewhere' to control one of them (fan, fan light or recessed lights). Lutron does make a junction-box connectable device, the RF softswitch (whose part# escapes me). I chose not to use this as I need buttons, not local fan control.

My plan is to use a dimmer for the recessed lights and then hybrid to control the fan and it's light. The 5 buttons on it would be:

[Fan Light] (toggle)
[Fan High] (scene)
[Fan Med] (scene)
[Fan Low] (scene)
[All Off] (scene)

This way anyone expecting to be able to choose a fan speed will have that option. The fan controller itself will get mounted elsewhere, in my case up in the attic.

In your case you'd likely want to consider adding a 3rd position to that box, or another box adjacent to it. It'd depend on the
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post #1032 of 1035 Old Yesterday, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by A&M 350Z View Post
dgage, are those the temporary stickers on the keypad?
Are you saying they don't look perfect? Yes...they are indeed printed labels stuck on there. I keep meaning to get them laser engraved but I haven't bought motorized shades yet. Once I do that, I'll be 100% done and will get laser engraving done then. But it still looks professional but looking at the up close picture, it looks like I could have done better.

Oh yeah...it gave me time to figure out I want to rename the down light to island. So good idea for initial deployment maybe before engraving makes it permanent.
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post #1033 of 1035 Old Yesterday, 01:04 PM
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heh, I still haven't even put sticker on. I really DO need to get some of the ones at the patio door labeled...
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post #1034 of 1035 Old Yesterday, 03:48 PM
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heh, I still haven't even put sticker on. I really DO need to get some of the ones at the patio door labeled...
I just put some stickers on as I had guests staying for a week, and well, even I don't remember which buttons do what - since I just haven't finished playing with them yet. Lutron's advice to live with these systems "for a few months" before ordering the custom engraving is very, very good advice indeed!

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post #1035 of 1035 Old Yesterday, 06:21 PM
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Lutron's advice to live with these systems "for a few months" before ordering the custom engraving is very, very good advice indeed!
I totally agree. I've made at least 50 edits to the programming since we moved in last Fall. Including the addition of several keypads as replacements for a few dimmers. I'm still not really make much use of "scenes" though. That is, in the "set a mood" sense. I suppose that'll become more likely when we do the theater later this year. But other than the dining room there's not been too many situations where the way we use the space would benefit from having dedicated scene settings. But I do have various lights grouped together, but that's usually for an "Area Off" or an "All Off".

Once I get off the fence and get an automation system going I suspect there will be more opportunity for scene-like coordination.
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