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dgage's Avatar dgage 11:47 AM 07-27-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by spearce View Post
When you are programming the Pico there is a small checkbox on the left side panel where it shows a picture of the Pico. Uncheck that box and the buttons will be split, allowing you to assign anything to each button.

Raise/lower are special, they operate as a pair. But you can assign raise/lower a different set of loads then the on/off and the middle button (assuming the 3BRL pico).
DAMMIT! How did I miss that? Has that always been there? I may need to go back to older versions to see if that option has always been there.

But thank you, THANK YOU! Addresses an issue I used my HA system to address which apparently I didn't need to and can get rid of some unnecessary latency.

dgage's Avatar dgage 11:59 AM 07-27-2014
Well I take it back somewhat...it doesn't quite do what I want it to do but gets closer.

For these particular Pico remotes, I have them on either side of the bed in our master bedroom. I want all of the buttons to control the master bedroom lights EXCEPT I want the center circle button to toggle a master bathroom nightlight. It looks like I can get the center circle button to turn the light on but not be a toggle to also turn the light off. Am I missing something or is this use case not supported by the RadioRa2 software?
spearce's Avatar spearce 12:10 PM 07-27-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by dgage View Post
Well I take it back somewhat...it doesn't quite do what I want it to do but gets closer.

For these particular Pico remotes, I have them on either side of the bed in our master bedroom. I want all of the buttons to control the master bedroom lights EXCEPT I want the center circle button to toggle a master bathroom nightlight. It looks like I can get the center circle button to turn the light on but not be a toggle to also turn the light off. Am I missing something or is this use case not supported by the RadioRa2 software?
No it can't be a toggle. The only mode for lighting is a scene, which is not a toggle.
dgage's Avatar dgage 12:24 PM 07-27-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by spearce View Post
No it can't be a toggle. The only mode for lighting is a scene, which is not a toggle.
Thanks for the info and verifying. I did move control of all of the other buttons back to RadioRa2 thanks to your help. I'll use my HA software for the center circle button.

Does anyone have a contact at Lutron that we might request the ability to setup a toggle for this use case?

Thanks again...better than it was but not as good as it could be.
schalliol's Avatar schalliol 02:20 PM 07-27-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by dgage View Post
DAMMIT! How did I miss that? Has that always been there? I may need to go back to older versions to see if that option has always been there.

But thank you, THANK YOU! Addresses an issue I used my HA system to address which apparently I didn't need to and can get rid of some unnecessary latency.
Hasn't always been there. I think last fall/winter there was a change to allow the "unchanged" option.
schalliol's Avatar schalliol 02:26 PM 07-27-2014
Can you install an 8ANS to switch a receptacle under the NEC? I know you need a receptacle for dimming use if you want to dim a lamp from a switched receptacle (also requires you to change the plug on the lamp) and a switch isn't a problem by default. However, the power handling of the switch might be a problem.

Since the 8ANS is only 8A handling, can you use it to switch something that's less than 8A? Because there is a potential someone could plug-in something requiring more power than 8A, I wasn't sure if it would be allowed. All this said, anyone could easily overload a circuit if they plugged in multiple 15A devices into varying outlets, so it's unclear to me. Thanks!
markrubin's Avatar markrubin 06:07 PM 07-27-2014
question re Silvio QS cellular shades

One shade is giving me some trouble: wonder if anyone has seen this:

the shade now stops at an upper limit approx 85% open Vs the program setting of 100%:

if I use the program to adjust the shade to full open 100%, and reset the upper limit, it still only goes to 85%: it is not a programming issue:

one of the end caps of the shade came loose and I think that tripped a setting in the shade itself. I am thinking I need to default the shade to factory settings but it says that does not affest upper and lower limits

any other ideas?

edit: there was a flashing error code on the shade too:
Lutron customer service gave me a ticket number so I can get a replacement shade under warranty through my dealer

tia
spiwrx's Avatar spiwrx 08:49 AM 07-28-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by dgage View Post
Outstanding and useful info Paul as that would come in very handy in my garage.

But can you expand on what you mean by a Pico handling multiple circuits? I thought you could only use a Pico on one load, which annoyed me when I first got one as I wanted the middle button to control a different light. Ended up using my CQC home automation software to do what I wanted. Thanks.
Yes and one last thing is the Pico only gives you "Scene" programming. You cannot Toggle a load from one button, or at least I haven't seen how this is possible yet.
dgage's Avatar dgage 10:34 AM 07-28-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post
Yes and one last thing is the Pico only gives you "Scene" programming. You cannot Toggle a load from one button, or at least I haven't seen how this is possible yet.
Do you (or anyone) happen to know how I might request that feature? Thanks.
spiwrx's Avatar spiwrx 11:38 AM 07-28-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by dgage View Post
Do you (or anyone) happen to know how I might request that feature? Thanks.
You should try in Lutron's own forum:
https://forums.lutron.com/forumdisplay.php/32-RadioRA-2

That forum is relatively young compared to this thread. But it's growing quickly. Lutron also heavily police's that thread so any mention of 3rd party equipment is usually pulled.
dgage's Avatar dgage 01:01 PM 07-28-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post
You should try in Lutron's own forum:
https://forums.lutron.com/forumdisplay.php/32-RadioRA-2

That forum is relatively young compared to this thread. But it's growing quickly. Lutron also heavily police's that thread so any mention of 3rd party equipment is usually pulled.
Thanks for the heads up...I joined and added my request to a feature request post.
Ramias's Avatar Ramias 02:33 PM 07-28-2014
Does anybody have a good source where I can buy Sivoia QS shades (or whatever they are called) that work with RA2?



I can install and program them myself. I don't need a decorator to come to my home.



I just need a place to buy them from. Looking to get the motorized drape/curtain system. I may buy my drape fabric elsewhere or I may buy Lutron.



Thanks



Sent from my Venue 8 Pro 5830 using Tapatalk
tritium6's Avatar tritium6 01:50 AM 07-29-2014
Hi. Can anyone tell me if an RD-RD can be used to control a scene? Or is it paired only to a specific dimmer?
rapamatic's Avatar rapamatic 05:52 AM 07-29-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by tritium6 View Post
Hi. Can anyone tell me if an RD-RD can be used to control a scene? Or is it paired only to a specific dimmer?
An RD-RD is wired to an existing dimmer, and has no clear connect or dimming circuitry inside. It's basically just a way to remotely press the buttons on the dimmer it is connected to. So it can only control the load on the dimmer it is connected to. It cannot dim or activate a scene (unless Lutron changes something to allow dimmers to activate scenes/other loads).
tritium6's Avatar tritium6 07:47 AM 07-29-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by rapamatic View Post
An RD-RD is wired to an existing dimmer, and has no clear connect or dimming circuitry inside. It's basically just a way to remotely press the buttons on the dimmer it is connected to. So it can only control the load on the dimmer it is connected to. It cannot dim or activate a scene (unless Lutron changes something to allow dimmers to activate scenes/other loads).
Thanks. So if I want to dim remotely without a traveller, my choices are a keypad or a Pico? Any other option?
rapamatic's Avatar rapamatic 07:58 AM 07-29-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by tritium6 View Post
Thanks. So if I want to dim remotely without a traveller, my choices are a keypad or a Pico? Any other option?
Yeah, that's pretty much it (other than software controls like the lutron iphone app or third party like CQC)...

picos are pretty flexible - they can be wall mounted with a faceplate, put on a pedestal, etc..

You can also use a tabletop keypad if you don't want something on the wall...

what are you trying to accomplish?
Foos-Man's Avatar Foos-Man 08:27 AM 07-29-2014
Are the button mechanics the same between dimmers and switches (ex: RRD-6CL versus RRD-8ANS)? The dimmers operate with 1-click or 2-click operation for on/off, is the switch a typical paddle/rocker switch for on/off operation?
rapamatic's Avatar rapamatic 08:30 AM 07-29-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by Foos-Man View Post
Are the button mechanics the same between dimmers and switches (ex: RRD-6CL versus RRD-8ANS)? The dimmers operate with 1-click or 2-click operation for on/off, is the switch a typical paddle/rocker switch for on/off operation?
The switch looks and operates just like the dimmers, except it is either on or off. It is not a rocker switch. Because it can be controlled remotely, a rocker switch wouldn't really make sense. There is a single LED on the left side of the switch (as opposed to the multiple LEDs on the dimmer) that is on when the load is on, and off when it is off. More info below.

http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocum...25_English.pdf
thekidceo's Avatar thekidceo 09:10 AM 07-29-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by A&M 350Z View Post
Are the RadioRa2 digital switches really more expensive than the dimmers? Everyone one I have received a quote from has the RRD-8S significantly more expensive than the RRD-6CL dimmer. Maybe it is because it is dual voltage? Have a bunch of lights that don't really need a dimmer, example outdoor house and patio but are dimmable if it is a cheaper option. Some locations don't have a neutral wire and I am not concerned about wattage minimum so I was gonna go with the 8S switches. Any suggestions?

Thanks
Yes that's definitely true. Essentially the 6CL (and the 6D that it's more or less designed to replace), the 8ANS (8A neutral wire switch), and 3LD/3PD (plug-in lamp dimmers) list at $149, and the rest (6NA, F6AN-DV, 8S-DV, 10D, 10ND, and 2ANF) list at $199. Part of it might be the fact it's dual-voltage, but I highly suspect the difference in price is mainly based on demand. They sell way more 6CLs than 8S-DVs, so they can make larger volumes of them for cheaper. It's the same with theirs Sivoia QS shades, where the Monaco line is about $200-$450 less per shade than the Rio line, yet the shades are the exact same in every way besides color choices: Monaco is the most common (read: neutral) colors, and Rio is the more bold colors and less-commonly ordered neutral colors.

Anyway, if you want just a switch but don't have a neutral wire and don't want to spend an extra $50 per switch on the dual-voltage option, I'd buy the 6CLs and take advantage of a little-known option the dimmers have: you can actually program a dimmer to operate as an on/off switch and disable dimming, either through the Essentials/Inclusive software or in Advanced Programming Mode.

If you'd like me to explain how to do that I'd be more than happy to. Or if you have any other Lutron-related questions, I'm glad to help as well. I just joined the forum, but I'm a Lutron PSP and RadioRA 2 Level 2 integrator with a Full Residential Shade Qualification, so I know my stuff haha.

- Edwin
schalliol's Avatar schalliol 10:59 PM 07-29-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by thekidceo View Post
Yes that's definitely true. Essentially the 6CL (and the 6D that it's more or less designed to replace), the 8ANS (8A neutral wire switch), and 3LD/3PD (plug-in lamp dimmers) list at $149, and the rest (6NA, F6AN-DV, 8S-DV, 10D, 10ND, and 2ANF) list at $199. Part of it might be the fact it's dual-voltage, but I highly suspect the difference in price is mainly based on demand. They sell way more 6CLs than 8S-DVs, so they can make larger volumes of them for cheaper. It's the same with theirs Sivoia QS shades, where the Monaco line is about $200-$450 less per shade than the Rio line, yet the shades are the exact same in every way besides color choices: Monaco is the most common (read: neutral) colors, and Rio is the more bold colors and less-commonly ordered neutral colors.

Anyway, if you want just a switch but don't have a neutral wire and don't want to spend an extra $50 per switch on the dual-voltage option, I'd buy the 6CLs and take advantage of a little-known option the dimmers have: you can actually program a dimmer to operate as an on/off switch and disable dimming, either through the Essentials/Inclusive software or in Advanced Programming Mode.

If you'd like me to explain how to do that I'd be more than happy to. Or if you have any other Lutron-related questions, I'm glad to help as well. I just joined the forum, but I'm a Lutron PSP and RadioRA 2 Level 2 integrator with a Full Residential Shade Qualification, so I know my stuff haha.

- Edwin
Edwin, go ahead and explain it. Lutron told me you can change lamp dimmers to non-dimmed lighting and I know you can adjust the speed of turn on and off, but I don't believe you can truly make it like a switch and bypass the minimum load requirements.

For example a couple of LEDs on a 6D work okay to turn on and dim, but the LEDs can go wacky when the load is off. Thanks!
thekidceo's Avatar thekidceo 08:35 AM 07-30-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by schalliol View Post
Edwin, go ahead and explain it. Lutron told me you can change lamp dimmers to non-dimmed lighting and I know you can adjust the speed of turn on and off, but I don't believe you can truly make it like a switch and bypass the minimum load requirements.

For example a couple of LEDs on a 6D work okay to turn on and dim, but the LEDs can go wacky when the load is off. Thanks!
You can definitely do that with lamp dimmers, but the Ra2 Advanced Programming Mode documentation suggests that you can also do it with dimmers (see 3-J on page 5, http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocum...ary/048247.pdf). I've never actually used it, and so far I haven't been able to find the feature in the software on a second look (I thought it was in there but now I'm not seeing it).

Switches have their own minimum load requirements though, so whether it's a dimmer acting like a switch or an actual switch you'll still have that lower limit. What's really causing the LEDs to act wacky when you turn the switch off has nothing to do with whether you're using a dimmer or a switch: it's the lack of a neutral wire causing it. To properly dim LED lighting, the dimmer/switch needs to have a constant, direct connection to the AC power source regardless of the state of the load. The neutral wire ensures that the dimmer/switch has power to drive its own internal circuitry even when the load is disconnected or off, and it also provides a clean signal of the incoming AC power source for detection of zero-crossings and synchronization with the line. Both of these are essential to stable phase-controlled dimming, and the lack of a neutral wire is always the most likely culprit if you experience issues dimming or switching LEDs. That's why for most of our LED installations we only spec the 10ND dimmers and 8ANS switches; the rest just aren't reliable enough with 95% of LEDs (though we have had great experiences with the 6CL and the hybrid keypads on the EcoSmart 575L (which use Cree's TrueWhite LED driver) - smooth, wide dimming range, no buzzing, no popcorn effect, etc). Long story short I bet if you swap out that 6D with a 6ND you'll experience a lot fewer issues with the LEDs (same with swapping an 8S-DV for an 8ANS).

Let me know if this helps and if you have any other questions!
Sevenfeet's Avatar Sevenfeet 01:42 PM 07-30-2014
I'm not a newbie to AVSForum but I am new to this kind of home automation, having been introduced it by forum member WKearney99 (who is an old friend) and had the opportunity to see his Lutron-enabled house a few weeks ago (and months earlier when it was under construction).

I've been looking to doing some lighting control upgrades in my own home, but I don't have the luxury of a new home construction like my friend did to get everything right the first time (or most everything right!). My home is about 22 years old with mostly conventional switches installed by the builder. The exception are the Lutron dimmers and switches installed by my contractor 8 years ago as a part of my kitchen renovation.

I'm only now starting to realize the ups and downs of lighting design and some of the decisions I've been making over the years in my quest for energy efficiency (my wife is a sustainability PhD). So over the last several years I've been swapping incandescent bulbs for CFs (at first) and LEDs (now). I don't have dimmer switches in most of the house, but I saw the issues regarding modern dimming first hand with the kitchen lighting. I didn't know there were practical minimum load considerations that going to modern lighting might create.

I have 9 can lights on two circuits (split 7 and 2, total wattage about 585) At first, CF BR30 bulbs were so awful for the light they threw that we went half and half, keeping about 5 IC lights in the mix. What I didn't realize was that this was probably not the best thing for the dimmer to handle, even for the Lutron model in the wall. And CF dimmer bulbs weren't great at dimming anyway, doing it at different rates than the other lights. And CF dimming bulbs didn't last as long as I would have liked. We began replacing them with the Ecosmart/Cree kits from Home Depot about a year ago (one CF bulb remains that hasn't died yet). So that has evened out the weird load that the dimmer was seeing and given a more uniform pattern through the room. The total load on the first switch is about 87 watts, which is probably fine. But the second switch has only two lights and less than 30 watts on it, so I imagine that's probably under the load for what the dimmer is rated for. And it may be an issue if I wanted to replace them both with more modern choices from the Radio RA2 product line. The question is where and how do I start (I've been discussing this off-line with WKearney99 for a few weeks now).

One more note: I've been working with Cree's bulbs long enough to see that they are making running changes to the product to help compatibility. I tried installing two early model Cree 60w equiv LEB bulbs in a 10 year old Hunter ceiling fan with an RF fan control. The light came on and then began blinking like crazy. I removed the bulbs and would up installing them in a dining room chandelier with a 20 year old+ rotary dimmer with no problems. Later Cree bulbs in 60w, 75w and finally 100w equivs now work with this fan, without issues.
dgage's Avatar dgage 05:10 PM 07-30-2014
OK first 7', we have to get something important out of the way. Vols fan? I'm in East TN but lived a few years in Nashville about...damn...10 years ago now.

I "know" Wkearney from the Cocoontech forums. My advice is to just pick a lighting and do it. The two primary choices I'd recommend would be UPB or Lutron RadioRa2 if we are talking DIY lighting. There's also Zwave but I don't recommend it as it isn't in the same league of reliability as the other two. There's been quite a bit of discussion over at Cocoontech recently so I'd recommend doing a search over there for UPB and RadioRa2.

I have a 12 year old house and I'm sure they didn't use a lighting consultant. The lighting control isn't bad but not perfect. I was remodeling my kitchen and it was the impetus for me choosing a lighting system, which as you can guess was RadioRa2. The primary reason I chose RadioRa2 was reliability, elegance, and selection of devices.

Now regarding dealing with lighting design issues, I had an issue when I redid my kitchen that the RadioRa2 system helped solve. As a part of the remodel, I put in an L-shaped island that extended into the breakfast nook. As a part of that, I wanted to have main lights, which we did with 8 recessed lights but I also wanted to have secondary pendants over the lighting. Well since I didn't have a breakfast nook anymore, I used that circuit (single switch) to drive the pendant lights. I talked to my friend who's an electrician as he was helping some and it was clear he didn't want to run wires to the other two locations and also recommended against having so many switches in the other locations. So I was able to use a Hybrid keypad in the Breakfast Nook and in the other locations I used a regular switch for the main kitchen lights and a Hybrid keypad for all of the other loads. So the very nice keypads were able to address my design needs. Might help give you some ideas for your situation.


Attached: switches and keypads.jpg (23.4 KB) 
spearce's Avatar spearce 07:32 PM 07-30-2014
Has anyone else noticed the hybrid keypad and seeTouch keypad have different mounting plate thicknesses, resulting in the devices not sitting evenly in the same Claro wallplate?

My kitchen has a 3-gang with H6BRL, W6BRL, 6CL in order (see attached image). The hybrid keypad in the left-most slot is slightly thicker than the seeTouch in the middle, so it raises up out of the wallplate more. Its also not exactly level due to the tile backsplash being uneven in height, I think its visible in the photo how the left edge is lower than the right edge.

Any suggestions on how to level this out and deal with the fact these devices have different thicknesses for the mounting brackets at their top and bottom?

The perfectionist in me would really like to have them more consistent within the wallplate.
Attached: Kitchen3.png (253.3 KB) 
Sevenfeet's Avatar Sevenfeet 09:51 PM 07-30-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by dgage View Post
OK first 7', we have to get something important out of the way. Vols fan? I'm in East TN but lived a few years in Nashville about...damn...10 years ago now.
I'm a middle TN native, but my sports allegiances are to Yale (where I played basketball) and Vanderbilt (where I went to grad school). Not a Vols fan (don't hate them either).

Quote:
I "know" Wkearney from the Cocoontech forums. My advice is to just pick a lighting and do it. The two primary choices I'd recommend would be UPB or Lutron RadioRa2 if we are talking DIY lighting. There's also Zwave but I don't recommend it as it isn't in the same league of reliability as the other two. There's been quite a bit of discussion over at Cocoontech recently so I'd recommend doing a search over there for UPB and RadioRa2.
And I've known Wkearney99 "in real life" for 25 years. It's been nice getting his guidance on this since often many of us come into things like this from a theoretical approach having not seen this kind of lighting automation in a real home. I've seen what he's done and the decision process behind it. That is a huge learning advantage to me. And because of it, I can't see going to a different vendor unless there is just something someone else makes that I cannot do without.

Quote:
I have a 12 year old house and I'm sure they didn't use a lighting consultant. The lighting control isn't bad but not perfect. I was remodeling my kitchen and it was the impetus for me choosing a lighting system, which as you can guess was RadioRa2. The primary reason I chose RadioRa2 was reliability, elegance, and selection of devices.

Now regarding dealing with lighting design issues, I had an issue when I redid my kitchen that the RadioRa2 system helped solve. As a part of the remodel, I put in an L-shaped island that extended into the breakfast nook. As a part of that, I wanted to have main lights, which we did with 8 recessed lights but I also wanted to have secondary pendants over the lighting. Well since I didn't have a breakfast nook anymore, I used that circuit (single switch) to drive the pendant lights. I talked to my friend who's an electrician as he was helping some and it was clear he didn't want to run wires to the other two locations and also recommended against having so many switches in the other locations. So I was able to use a Hybrid keypad in the Breakfast Nook and in the other locations I used a regular switch for the main kitchen lights and a Hybrid keypad for all of the other loads. So the very nice keypads were able to address my design needs. Might help give you some ideas for your situation.
My kitchen would be a good place to start in that the wiring there is more modern than the rest of the house and there's already Lutron hardware to upgrade. I can see having a hybrid keypad or two control the 9 overhead cans, pendants, halogen lights at the bar/eating area, under cabinet lights (three switches)...everything but the garbage disposal (which doesn't need smart anything).

But from a practical family standpoint, I'm seeing the foyer of the house as a more needed upgrade point. The front door of the house is a three gang switch, one for outdoor floods, one for porch lanterns and the third for the foyer chandelier. I've heard of people putting dimmers on the outdoor lights, but I haven't heard a good reason why. (parties? halloween?) The foyer chandelier badly needs a dimmer since my son likes to 1) have his door open when he sleeps and 2) a light on outside his door. He has been known to wake up and turn the foyer chandelier on in the middle of the night. I would like to limit the brightness of the lamps.

But the chandelier has three different light switch controls (two downstairs, one upstairs) which I'm guessing is a 4-way application and I haven't opened up the gang to figure out which is the load point to put the master dimmer versus the accessory dimmers. The upstairs switch is a part of a two gang for another light at the top of the stairs that I would also love to dim and control since my son tends to turn that one on too.

The limiting factor right now (outside of the budget equation) is my quest to rid the house of as many incandescent lights as I can. I've been largely successful...there aren't many left. But I have to deal with Lutron hardware that hasn't been upgraded for LEDs in terms of hybrid pads (Wkearney99 solved this by not using CF or LED lamps). So while the current chandelier has about 100 watts of IC lights, my wife wants to kill this aging fixture and replace it; and when that happens, it will have LEDs with a lot lower wattage load. The new lamp fixture at the top of the stairs I just installed is only pulling a 19 watt load from the Crees I installed. While I'm sure that the current hybrid pads could cope with some of the choices I've made, it would be better that have hardware that was actually designed for the task.
dgage's Avatar dgage 10:02 PM 07-30-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sevenfeet View Post
The limiting factor right now (outside of the budget equation) is my quest to rid the house of as many incandescent lights as I can. I've been largely successful...there aren't many left. But I have to deal with Lutron hardware that hasn't been upgraded for LEDs in terms of hybrid pads (Wkearney99 solved this by not using CF or LED lamps). So while the current chandelier has about 100 watts of IC lights, my wife wants to kill this aging fixture and replace it; and when that happens, it will have LEDs with a lot lower wattage load. The new lamp fixture at the top of the stairs I just installed is only pulling a 19 watt load from the Crees I installed. While I'm sure that the current hybrid pads could cope with some of the choices I've made, it would be better that have hardware that was actually designed for the task.
Good to know someone named Sevenfeet can actually ball. I played pickup games all through college because I love to play the game but wasn't that good.

Well it sounds like you've got a handle on the overall design, especially with wkearney's help.

Regarding the LEDs, I'm switching just about everything over to LED and even swapped out some of the enclosed fixtures since a lot of LEDs aren't suitable to a closed fixture due to heat. I haven't had any issues with LEDs, even running a pair of 4" pucks (8w ea) at only 42% as normal max. Then again, I made sure to purchase all neutral dimmers/switches, which might have helped. I think that's a key point, which is to check to see if you have neutral wires at every switch.

Good luck!
richardorser's Avatar richardorser 10:10 PM 07-30-2014
Friends,
A RRa1 certified electrician installed my RRa2 equipment with the understanding that he would add all the RRa2 devices to the repeater, and I, the new home owner, would program the equipment after I completed the on-line RRa2 course.
So, I am wading through the course, but hope some kind soul here will answer some questions about the course.
Right now, I am in the part about designing a system using the software. My question is: Do I need to learn about the DESIGN portion of the software since all my devices are actually ALREADY INSTALLED. IOW, does one need to enter all the devices, room info., etc. into the design section before it will be available in the programming section? Or, can I skip to PROGRAMMING?
Thanks so much, Richard PS I apologize for not knowing how to start a new thread here.
dgage's Avatar dgage 12:34 AM 07-31-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by richardorser View Post
Friends,
A RRa1 certified electrician installed my RRa2 equipment with the understanding that he would add all the RRa2 devices to the repeater, and I, the new home owner, would program the equipment after I completed the on-line RRa2 course.
So, I am wading through the course, but hope some kind soul here will answer some questions about the course.
Right now, I am in the part about designing a system using the software. My question is: Do I need to learn about the DESIGN portion of the software since all my devices are actually ALREADY INSTALLED. IOW, does one need to enter all the devices, room info., etc. into the design section before it will be available in the programming section? Or, can I skip to PROGRAMMING?
Thanks so much, Richard PS I apologize for not knowing how to start a new thread here.
Each step builds on the previous so you really need to understand each step. It doesn't take long and isn't that hard...but you will need to play with it some. So study up and you'll have it figured out soon. Good luck.
richardorser's Avatar richardorser 11:29 AM 07-31-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by dgage View Post
Each step builds on the previous so you really need to understand each step. It doesn't take long and isn't that hard...but you will need to play with it some. So study up and you'll have it figured out soon. Good luck.
Thanks DG, I will be patient and get through it all. Just wondered if with a system that is already installed (but, not yet programmed) if I would have to enter all the devices in the DESIGN section of the software OR in the PROGRAMMING section of the software. Do you recall?
Thanks, Richard
dgage's Avatar dgage 01:34 PM 07-31-2014
Quote:
Originally Posted by richardorser View Post
Thanks DG, I will be patient and get through it all. Just wondered if with a system that is already installed (but, not yet programmed) if I would have to enter all the devices in the DESIGN section of the software OR in the PROGRAMMING section of the software. Do you recall?
Thanks, Richard
No you don't have to renter, as I mentioned, the app builds upon itself. So how your RadioRa2 devices were entered in the first step will need to be understood as you go through the Design and Progeamming steps. An example is where a switch or keypad were installed and how you want them programmed, you'll need to identify the appropriate room and appropriate switch location. Plus, there are some advanced parameters on the initial configuration page that you'll want to be familiar with such as default light level.
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