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post #1141 of 1179 Old 08-16-2014, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by tritium6 View Post
Thanks for the tips. This is new construction. I'm placing the dimmers in the closet, so it shouldn't be too far to walk

Unfortunately that means I can't really use them before programming. Not too worried about that.

You all have been really helpful with planning this all out. Much more helpful than the dealers/installers even. Thanks.
Why don't you just install them and program them at the same time? I usually program them before I install them. That's probably the best bet so you can test them fully, etc.
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post #1142 of 1179 Old 08-16-2014, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by schalliol View Post
Why don't you just install them and program them at the same time? I usually program them before I install them. That's probably the best bet so you can test them fully, etc.
How do you power them for programming before installation?

Also, my electrician is concerned that if we pull power for a keypad from a nearby outlet, like I had suggested, that it might interfere with the keypad if we are running a vacuum cleaner from that outlet. Has anyone bumped into that kind of problem before? Is the only solution to run a dedicated circuit for the keypads, as the electrician suggested?
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post #1143 of 1179 Old 08-17-2014, 06:00 PM
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You don't need to even have the devices at all in order to program. Set up the programming and then once you drop the devices in, check its powered and then activate and transfer all at once. Alternatively you could put in the serial numbers in for all the devices and skip activation and just transfer
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post #1144 of 1179 Old 08-17-2014, 09:55 PM
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I've actually pulled plugs out that I forgot to write down the serial numbers. Is there a way to activate a switch with the software if you forgot to get the serial number before installation? Thanks.

David
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post #1145 of 1179 Old 08-18-2014, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by dgage View Post
I've actually pulled plugs out that I forgot to write down the serial numbers. Is there a way to activate a switch with the software if you forgot to get the serial number before installation? Thanks.

David
Yeah, you put it in activation mode (through the software) and then it goes through all the switches/dimmers/keypads/etc. -- you then hold down a button on each switch to activate it. Very easy.

Check out Module 4.0 in the RadioRa 2 learning center on mylutron - shows you how to do it.
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post #1146 of 1179 Old 08-18-2014, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post
Just changed a Pico battery last night. I would LOVE to hardwire that, and pay a lot of money for the transformer.
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Originally Posted by az1324 View Post
Ok. Well not that hard to set up a 3.3V supply for picos and solder some wires if you have the wiring in place and really don't like changing batteries.
Can anyone recommend a specific power supply, to be mounted in an enclosure, remote from the Pico (30 foot run, 18/2 or 22/2)?

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post #1147 of 1179 Old 08-22-2014, 08:28 PM
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My electrician is concerned that if we pull power for a keypad from a nearby outlet, like I had suggested, that it might interfere with the keypad if we are running a vacuum cleaner from that outlet. Has anyone bumped into that kind of problem before? Is the only solution to run a dedicated circuit for the keypads, as the electrician suggested?
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post #1148 of 1179 Old 08-23-2014, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tritium6 View Post
My electrician is concerned that if we pull power for a keypad from a nearby outlet, like I had suggested, that it might interfere with the keypad if we are running a vacuum cleaner from that outlet. Has anyone bumped into that kind of problem before? Is the only solution to run a dedicated circuit for the keypads, as the electrician suggested?
RR2 is designed for retrofit applications in existing homes, where it may not be possible to run a dedicated circuit for an added device....I have not heard any issues of this type
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post #1149 of 1179 Old 08-24-2014, 06:39 AM
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I would power it from the nearby outlet. If some issue arose down the road, from interference, then I would consider other options.

You could use low-voltage to power a keypad as well, from a transformer, if you can do that. Application Note #406 .

http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocum...e_RadioRA2.pdf

Transformer could be located in a nearby cabinet, in a closet, or located centrally in the mechanical room. I've also seen transformers located inside junction boxes.

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post #1150 of 1179 Old 08-25-2014, 07:11 AM
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Just so there is no confusion, the App. Note 406 above is for powering a regular RRD-Wxxx type of keypad (we have also successfully done this on 24vdc @ short distances to Trans.) This application note is not for powering a Pico (3.3v) [In previous post]

They do make a wired (low voltage) pico, but I was told from Lutron it's only for MRF2 applications. I'm sure you could source a small power supply from an electronics supply.
[Something like this should work: http://www.parts-express.com/vellema...le-vo--320-140]

And I have never heard of a Vacuum interfering with any Radio Ra Device. Tapping into a local receptacle is a typical application. You might remind him RR2 communicates on RF not over powerline.

Paul W.
'Lutron Grafik Eye & Radio Ra Specialist - or anything Lutron'
Hanks Electrical Supply

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post #1151 of 1179 Old 08-25-2014, 10:58 AM
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Thanks for the power supply tip, Paul.

Just to further clarify, that low voltage Pico isn't to be used with RA2 AT ALL. It's called Pico Wired Control, and that Pico isn't even an RF device - it delivers a signal over low voltage wired to some non-RA2 Lutron devices.

http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocum...Wired_Spec.pdf

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post #1152 of 1179 Old 08-25-2014, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post
Thanks for the power supply tip, Paul.

Just to further clarify, that low voltage Pico isn't to be used with RA2 AT ALL. It's called Pico Wired Control, and that Pico isn't even an RF device - it delivers a signal over low voltage wired to some non-RA2 Lutron devices.

http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocum...Wired_Spec.pdf
Never looked into it that far. Wish they wouldn't have called it a "Pico"...

Paul W.
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Hanks Electrical Supply

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post #1153 of 1179 Old 09-06-2014, 12:37 PM
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I have to swap out a 6CL for a 6NA, for dimming low-voltage LED in-cabinet puck lights (WAC HRLED87 x 6, EN-2460 Transformer).

AVS Member BradKas explained why: "The WAC power supplies require an ELV dimmer which dims on the trailing edge of the AC sine wave. The 6CL cannot do this as it dims on the leading edge. This is why it is flickering."

I haven't replaced the 6CL yet, so can't definitively confirm that the swap will fix.
I can now confirm that the WAC HRLED87 in-cabinet LED puck lights, x 6, wired in parallel, WAC EN2460 Transformer, dim well with the -6NA. FWIW, Neutral required for the RRD-6NA.

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post #1154 of 1179 Old Yesterday, 02:37 PM
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Something new to the line sneaking in under the radar:
http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocum...ary/369830.pdf

Based on their Vierti Dimmer style. What they are Calling the Grafik T Dimmer:
http://www.lutron.com/en-US/Products.../Overview.aspx


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post #1155 of 1179 Old Yesterday, 09:10 PM
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Vierti has had some nice product placement on Extant.
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post #1156 of 1179 Old Yesterday, 10:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post
Something new to the line sneaking in under the radar:
http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocum...ary/369830.pdf

Based on their Vierti Dimmer style. What they are Calling the Grafik T Dimmer:
http://www.lutron.com/en-US/Products.../Overview.aspx

Spoke to them briefly about this at CEDIA... They will create a dual-gang faceplate with one decora cutout to allow for ganging with another device. Any larger ganging will require a special order faceplate. The T dimmer is taller than a decora opening. The look and feel/operation of the T dimmer is very cool. Not for my decor, but very cool...

Jeff


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post #1157 of 1179 Old Today, 05:46 AM
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Spoke to them briefly about this at CEDIA... They will create a dual-gang faceplate with one decora cutout to allow for ganging with another device. Any larger ganging will require a special order faceplate. The T dimmer is taller than a decora opening. The look and feel/operation of the T dimmer is very cool. Not for my decor, but very cool...
The tech specs above show a few different faceplate options at the end...

I like the clean design (like the homeworks keypads) where there isn't a standard decord cutout and then button cutouts... I agree though, limited applications both in terms of aesthetics... I wonder if the guts are more like a 6CL or a 6NA... it does have an optional neutral connection, which is interesting...
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The high-end Pallodium controls (HWQS only) were very impressive looking. Could be RA2 options in the future.

Saw the Vierti and really didn't think much of it. Yeah, it's cool and all, but I don't see much uptake. A multi-gang setup of it would just look... odd.

Beat them up on the glaring obviousness that is Caseta & RA2 being exactly the same RF tech. Stressed doing 'rip and replace' is NOT going to fly with moving DIY customers up to RA2. ESPECIALLY not with with the Serena shades. There was a degree of acceptance to the notion. It'd be trivial for the RA2 software to integrate them, so there's hope... just not at the present time. Could be there won't be enough uptake of the Caseta to make it worthwhile.

The version 8 software looks slick. Especially the HWQS editing tools. I couldn't make it to the training classes (too close to my departure time).

The new 4 button Pico was shown. Individually programmable buttons, along with custom engraving. Likely $100 due to the engraving. I asked about being able to purchase blank ones and they didn't have that planned. One rep said just order an engraved one and leave them blank (which is a huge waste of money). Another integrator pointed out engraving them 1 through 4 would be in-keeping with the way the old Grafik Eye units were set up.

I could definitely see it being useful for an integrator to have a dozen or so of these to loan to customers. Scenes and such aren't always (or can't be) well-thought out ahead of time. Being able to use blank ones with tape labels (Brother) would be a good interim tool. Once the button purposes are all thought out then engraved ones could be purchased. They said that was an option worth considering.

They also showed the Smartbridge for Caseta. But, really, it's just a dumbed down main repeater.

So nothing ground-breaking from Lutron. Still a great product line though.
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post #1159 of 1179 Old Today, 06:26 AM
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Can Serena be setup through RadioRA 2 via DIY alterations? Just wondering, doesn't make sense to me why they can't be, but never played around with it.
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Thanks for sharing your notes from CEDIA!

My biggest gripe with caseta is that they are getting access to a lot of new tech (iOS Homekit, the new Logitech Harmony remotes) but RR2 isn't getting access to this. I know that a lot of higher end (integrator-only) remotes can work with RR2, but as a DIY RR2 user, it would be great to have more control options that just work out of the box...

I like the idea of a 4-button pico, and even a $100 list is much better than $300 for a keypad, plus, obviously, a lot better placement flexibility...
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post #1161 of 1179 Old Today, 06:32 AM
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Also, I had a quick question I was hoping somebody might have an answer to, as I never got a reply from Lutron's direct forum. I have a RadioRA 2 system that I installed and setup myself after getting approved and am in the process of ordering Sivoia QS wireless shades for some of the windows in my house. I have an older drapery that I haven't upgraded that is for a big sliding glass door for an upstairs balcony. It is motorized and uses RF, but due to the cost of the Lutron drapery system, I don't plan to upgrade it any time soon (hope to some day). That said, is there a way I can control my older one with my RadioRA 2 system? It has dry contacts that can control open, close, and stop functions. I noticed there's a somewhat newer RF Contact Closure Output Module (which is only available for some reason to those with Inclusive software), but what I believe I'd need is an RF contact closure input module, which I'm assuming doesn't exist yet, outside of the VCRX, correct? The problem is, I have a VCRX, but it's a floor below and on the opposite side of the house near the garage, so was wondering if there was another module that could work (RF CCO module sounds perfect if there was a similar RF CCI) that I could use to hook up just to this drapery system that I have? Or am I thinking about this backwards and the RF CCO module is exactly what I need? Just wondering my options. Thank you.
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post #1162 of 1179 Old Today, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by howieumd View Post
Also, I had a quick question I was hoping somebody might have an answer to, as I never got a reply from Lutron's direct forum. I have a RadioRA 2 system that I installed and setup myself after getting approved and am in the process of ordering Sivoia QS wireless shades for some of the windows in my house. I have an older drapery that I haven't upgraded that is for a big sliding glass door for an upstairs balcony. It is motorized and uses RF, but due to the cost of the Lutron drapery system, I don't plan to upgrade it any time soon (hope to some day). That said, is there a way I can control my older one with my RadioRA 2 system? It has dry contacts that can control open, close, and stop functions. I noticed there's a somewhat newer RF Contact Closure Output Module (which is only available for some reason to those with Inclusive software), but what I believe I'd need is an RF contact closure input module, which I'm assuming doesn't exist yet, outside of the VCRX, correct? The problem is, I have a VCRX, but it's a floor below and on the opposite side of the house near the garage, so was wondering if there was another module that could work (RF CCO module sounds perfect if there was a similar RF CCI) that I could use to hook up just to this drapery system that I have? Or am I thinking about this backwards and the RF CCO module is exactly what I need? Just wondering my options. Thank you.
You need a CCO module... since you can' tget the RF softswitch, I'd suggest just another VCRX. You'd use the CCO to close the dry contacts on the sliding drapery controller. The CCOs on the VCRX aren't powered, and I don't know what the inputs are on the drapery control - can you just short a wire across them or do they need current? If the later, you may need to wire a small power supply into the CCOs on the VCRX...

But, a VCRX seems the best bet.
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You need a CCO module... since you can' tget the RF softswitch, I'd suggest just another VCRX. You'd use the CCO to close the dry contacts on the sliding drapery controller. The CCOs on the VCRX aren't powered, and I don't know what the inputs are on the drapery control - can you just short a wire across them or do they need current? If the later, you may need to wire a small power supply into the CCOs on the VCRX...

But, a VCRX seems the best bet.
Thank you. Another VCRX to just control one thing seems like a bit overkill, but was afraid it might be my only option. In case it helps, I've included the diagram of the relays from the manufacturer of the drapery system I have
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post #1164 of 1179 Old Today, 06:45 AM
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You can always add another VCRX... Locating it nearer to the shade control. That's probably your most direct route to solving the problem.

The whole Exclusive/Inclusive tier is just plain stupid. Talk with your supplier or regional Lutron rep.
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post #1165 of 1179 Old Today, 06:56 AM
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Thank you. Another VCRX to just control one thing seems like a bit overkill, but was afraid it might be my only option. In case it helps, I've included the diagram of the relays from the manufacturer of the drapery system I have
Yeah, just a plain CCO would work, based on that diagram. Looks like the single button control may be your best bet - thats basically the same as the lutron single button shade control...
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Can Serena be setup through RadioRA 2 via DIY alterations? Just wondering, doesn't make sense to me why they can't be, but never played around with it.
Not currently. There's device databases in the Caseta and RA2 hubs that will only listen to certain device IDs. They're using EXACTLY the same RF techniques and protocols. It's just that the Caseta software won't listen to RA2 devices, and vice-versa. For the Caseta line I can understand this, as some devices like keypads are going to have more features. But for RA2 to not be able to listen to them just smacks of management being overly controlling of the market segments.

It's leaving the door open to lesser quality crap and the negative PR pressure risks of this game. Think back to Apple trying to pull this nonsense with their OS software only recognizing over-priced Apple hard drives (which literally had nothing more than a hex byte changed in the firmware). This just to exclude 3rd party hard drives. The same kind of nonsense is at play here.

Hopefully there will be enough sales of the lower-end gear to give Lutron the kind of incentive needed to have an 'upgrade' plan that doesn't involve rip-and-replace. Meanwhile anyone looking to save some money getting Serena shades instead of the EXACT SAME ONES in Sivoia QS are out of luck. You're going to pay more and get nothing other than RA2 control (assuming all you want is the same basic materials as available in Serena).
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The whole Exclusive/Inclusive tier is just plain stupid. Talk with your supplier or regional Lutron rep.
I agree. Seems like a very arbitrary distinction and they keep some cool stuff inclusive-only...

That being said, I have heard there may be some flexibility around allowing a homeowner to get inclusive certified... but I think you still do have to go through the in person training... I personally plan to cross that bridge when it becomes necessary - I still have room under the 100 device cap and don't have a need (yet) for the inclusive-only stuff...
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Yeah, just a plain CCO would work, based on that diagram. Looks like the single button control may be your best bet - thats basically the same as the lutron single button shade control...
Thanks again. And just to confirm, is the model # of what I'd need LMJ-16R-DV-B? Now I just need to find a way to get the Inclusive software, since I just have access to Essentials. Maybe the next update will allow integrating this into Essentials, who knows.
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Originally Posted by howieumd View Post
Thanks again. And just to confirm, is the model # of what I'd need LMJ-16R-DV-B? Now I just need to find a way to get the Inclusive software, since I just have access to Essentials. Maybe the next update will allow integrating this into Essentials, who knows.
If I were you I'd just get the VCRX, since that would work today with Essentials... The RF softswitch would work, but it is only one relay (its designed for switching 110 v devices), whereas a VCRX has 4 CCO outputs, not to mention the inputs and other features...
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Originally Posted by wkearney99 View Post
Meanwhile anyone looking to save some money getting Serena shades instead of the EXACT SAME ONES in Sivoia QS are out of luck. You're going to pay more and get nothing other than RA2 control (assuming all you want is the same basic materials as available in Serena).

I am recently authorized for Sivoia QS Triathlon, and putting together some quotes for myself and a few friends, but the prices are just unnecessary as you state for the extra integration for RR2. Plus the fact that Serena can be ordered online directly by the consumer makes them that more attractive along with the cost. Maybe some day they'll allow RR2 to control them.


I initially thought maybe by getting the Sivoia QS Wireless Receiver (QSYC4-RCVR) and wiring them into Serena's, but those aren't cheap anyways and I am doubtful it'd work, though haven't researched it enough to know for sure.
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