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post #1411 of 1436 Old 04-03-2015, 05:35 PM
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Attaching remote dimmers to LQRJ-WPM-6P?

Cross-posted from forums.lutron.com:

I'm working up a design for a house, and am planning on using LQRJ-WPM-6P modules for most if not all of the dimmable loads. As I was adding devices (Inclusive SW), I attempted to attach an RD-RD to one of the loads on an WPM. Could not figure out how to do it. Is that not possible? If I need switch locations for WPM loads I have to use a keypad of some kind? That's kinda annoying where I only need one control...
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post #1412 of 1436 Old 04-05-2015, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingDiver View Post
I'm working up a design for a house, and am planning on using LQRJ-WPM-6P modules for most if not all of the dimmable loads. As I was adding devices (Inclusive SW), I attempted to attach an RD-RD to one of the loads on an WPM. Could not figure out how to do it. Is that not possible? If I need switch locations for WPM loads I have to use a keypad of some kind? That's kinda annoying where I only need one control...
Nothing? Bummer. A call to tech support is probably in order.
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post #1413 of 1436 Old 04-05-2015, 09:34 AM
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Can't you just remove control from that WPM and use a dimmer instead of the RD-RD, for that particular load?
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post #1414 of 1436 Old 04-05-2015, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post
Can't you just remove control from that WPM and use a dimmer instead of the RD-RD, for that particular load?
Sure, I could, but I have several loads like that. Mostly hallway (path) lights that I need a simple switch for at each end of the hall. And I had dimmers available in the WPMs, so I was trying to use them. The WPM is cheaper than the equivalent number of dimmers, even adding in the extra remotes.

I'm reworking the design that way now, but I'll check with tech support anyway.
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post #1415 of 1436 Old 04-06-2015, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingDiver View Post
Cross-posted from forums.lutron.com:

I'm working up a design for a house, and am planning on using LQRJ-WPM-6P modules for most if not all of the dimmable loads. As I was adding devices (Inclusive SW), I attempted to attach an RD-RD to one of the loads on an WPM. Could not figure out how to do it. Is that not possible? If I need switch locations for WPM loads I have to use a keypad of some kind? That's kinda annoying where I only need one control...
The WPM can only be controlled via a keypad if you need that type of functionality over multiple loads.

Looks like you can trigger a scene with a momentary button if that gets you anywhere (see page 4, SSA connection)
http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocum...%20-%20WPM.pdf

"Default Scene Operation
Pressing the Default Scene Button will toggle the module
between the Default Scene and OFF. An NTGRX-1S or
a momentary switch may be connected to the SSA termi-
nal on the module to perform the same function as the
Default Scene Button (See SSA Wiring Diagram). To
program the Default Scene, use the
HomeWorks
Utility"

Paul W.
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post #1416 of 1436 Old 04-06-2015, 09:51 AM
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Thanks Paul. I also got a response from the RRA2 Level 2 training instructor, confirming that it can't be used with an RD-RD. Must be some technical limitation with the RD-RD, as it seems like an obvious usage. So I'm redoing my design to eliminate one of the WPM modules and placing 6CL units instead.
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post #1417 of 1436 Old 04-06-2015, 09:53 AM
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Ceiling Fans that work well with 2ANF

Can anyone recommend a brand/model of fan that works well with the 2NF? Must be high quality, quiet, and contemporary design. Just about everything out there seems to come with it's own wireless remote and receiver built into the motor.
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post #1418 of 1436 Old 04-06-2015, 01:28 PM
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A lot of them actually just have a little canopy module that the remote controls that you can just choose not to install.
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post #1419 of 1436 Old 04-06-2015, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingDiver View Post
Can anyone recommend a brand/model of fan that works well with the 2NF? Must be high quality, quiet, and contemporary design. Just about everything out there seems to come with it's own wireless remote and receiver built into the motor.
I went through this hassle about a year ago, spent a couple dozen hours searching online.

Not many contemporary fans out there that fit the bill. Kichler and Quorum might be names to research, IIRC.

There are about 4-5 major fan distributors online, with decent websites, some of them let you search by 'pull chain', for control. Hansen Wholesale is one distributor, look for 'pull chain' left hand column.

http://www.hansenwholesale.com/ceili...rol=Pull+Chain

Basically, you need a fan with a pull chain, if you haven't figured that out.

My search was complicated by looking for a larger size, and offering a quality light kit (higher output). Needless to say, the one I ended up with is a disappointment. I would like to replace it. If you find something, let me know.

Edit - search of Contemporary Fans with pull chains, from Hansen

http://www.hansenwholesale.com/ceili...e=ON&showTop3=

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Last edited by Neurorad; 04-06-2015 at 01:34 PM.
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post #1420 of 1436 Old 04-06-2015, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swancoat View Post
A lot of them actually just have a little canopy module that the remote controls that you can just choose not to install.
I've been looking at the installation manuals for the ones DW is interested in. Not many give any hope for a removable module. Many of the newer ones are DC, which pretty much rules them out totally.

If you have knowledge of specific brands with removable modules, please share.

Otherwise, it's looking like we're going to end up installing an 8S or 8ANS for simple On/Off and only use the remote for changing speeds. That's IF it actually goes back to it's last speed when power is restored.
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post #1421 of 1436 Old 04-07-2015, 05:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingDiver View Post
If you have knowledge of specific brands with removable modules, please share.
http://www.lightingdirect.com/minkaa...cluded/p293073

Remote control module was easy to remove, works great with 2ANF.
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post #1422 of 1436 Old 04-07-2015, 05:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingDiver View Post
Can anyone recommend a brand/model of fan that works well with the 2NF? Must be high quality, quiet, and contemporary design. Just about everything out there seems to come with it's own wireless remote and receiver built into the motor.
I'm using the 2NF with fans from Modern Fan Co. These are decent fans and definitely contemporary design.
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post #1423 of 1436 Old 04-09-2015, 07:34 AM
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Some new engraved 4 button Picos here with Paul's help (spiwrx). I'm really happy these are now available!
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post #1424 of 1436 Old 04-10-2015, 08:43 AM
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If it wasn't obvious, I have a lot of admiration and respect for the Lutron company. The Lutron company is one of the larger privately held companies, a role model in the industry, taking care of it's employees and customers alike. I never met Joel myself, but some of my co-workers have and I have met with some of his family. All of which are good down to earth people.

Lutrons founder, Joel Spira, passed away naturally the other day at the age of 88. At 88 he was still actively working in the company, most recently on their latest, home automation project. He's largely responsible for the modern light dimmer and several other control, automation and energy saving innovations.

http://www.mcall.com/news/local/sout...ry.html#page=1
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post #1425 of 1436 Old 04-23-2015, 07:41 AM
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What are Radio RA2 best practices for bathrooms?
I have a modest house all done up with Radio RA2.. (35 or so switches/ keypads, etc).. pretty much everything except for the bathrooms.

I'm having both bathrooms remodeled (gutted), and trying to figure out what to do for lighting control in there.
They are not very large baths.. so i'm wondering if it worth the cost for full lighting control.

I assume that it's handy to have a dedicated paddle for easy access, guests, etc (rather than a keypad)
The bathrooms will obviously have a exhast fan. Is it worth doing a keypad for delay options?
My guess is that I can probably handle all of the lights on one switch.

Should I just re-install the existing switches, and ignore lighting automation? I'm assuming bathrooms aren't part of a scene, other than All Off.

Any other cool things people have come up with?
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post #1426 of 1436 Old 04-23-2015, 08:01 AM
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I'd dearly love Lutron to make a RA2 integrated count-down timer for fans. Alas, they don't. RA2 offers no 'simple' solution for bathroom fans. I opted for Lutron's count-down timer switches for those. They look the same as RA2 switches, so that's consistent. Their side switch instead of dimming has numbers. You adjust that time up/down as desired and it blinks amber as it counts down. Works great. They're totally independent, so there's no automation with RA2 (or anything else).

I always suggest not using a keypad as the only on-wall device when there's the likelihood of guest usage. No sense tormenting them with figuring out a keypad when all they want is quick room lighting. This is ESPECIALLY true if you're not going to engrave the buttons right away. Which is something I suggest because you might not always know ahead of time exactly how you'll really end up using the buttons.

As for all lights on one switch, I've found it's best to keep overhead and vanity lights on separate switches. There's plenty of situations where you want one but not the other. I keep the "best looking" lighting on the paddle closest to the door. This way guests will get the 'best impression' of the space when they turn the lights on. For powder room and guest bath this is the vanity light. For the master bath it's the main fixture in the center (but then we have a very large master bath).
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post #1427 of 1436 Old 04-23-2015, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wkearney99 View Post
I'd dearly love Lutron to make a RA2 integrated count-down timer for fans. Alas, they don't. RA2 offers no 'simple' solution for bathroom fans. I opted for Lutron's count-down timer switches for those. They look the same as RA2 switches, so that's consistent. Their side switch instead of dimming has numbers. You adjust that time up/down as desired and it blinks amber as it counts down. Works great. They're totally independent, so there's no automation with RA2 (or anything else).

I always suggest not using a keypad as the only on-wall device when there's the likelihood of guest usage. No sense tormenting them with figuring out a keypad when all they want is quick room lighting. This is ESPECIALLY true if you're not going to engrave the buttons right away. Which is something I suggest because you might not always know ahead of time exactly how you'll really end up using the buttons.

As for all lights on one switch, I've found it's best to keep overhead and vanity lights on separate switches. There's plenty of situations where you want one but not the other. I keep the "best looking" lighting on the paddle closest to the door. This way guests will get the 'best impression' of the space when they turn the lights on. For powder room and guest bath this is the vanity light. For the master bath it's the main fixture in the center (but then we have a very large master bath).
Keep in mind the countdown timer has orange LEDs while the regular switches and dimmers use green LEDs.

Eric
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post #1428 of 1436 Old 04-23-2015, 11:58 AM
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There is a lot you can do in a bathroom, but for most conditional programming you will need a third party integration.
In a typical master bath you may have overhead and vanity lighting, plus another light in the shower stall.
You can do vacancy and occupancy sensors on timeclock to turn off and on lights to different levels at different time and lighting conditions.
If you add motorized shades, you can have them to close and open based on timeclock/sunset/sunrise conditions.
Additionally I have put towel warmers and bathroom fans on RA2 switches and turn them on/off from third-party systems.
If you include third-party integration, you can do things like close the shade if lights are turned on in the shower after sunset. Add a humidity sensor and you can turn on the bathroom fan based on humidity level.
My favorite is start flashing the shower light off after 15 minutes and turn it off a minute later.
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post #1429 of 1436 Old 04-23-2015, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trx250r87 View Post
Keep in mind the countdown timer has orange LEDs while the regular switches and dimmers use green LEDs.
Which I mentioned. Personally, I find it helpful that the timer uses amber lighting as it helps differentiate that the switch is doing something other than lighting. While keeping the (exact) same physical characteristics otherwise.

It is possible for the timer to be set 'on' and not count down. But a single tap on it will count down from the last-used value. So if it's set to 30 minutes (an ideal amount of time for most bathroom bath/shower steam issues) then it'll come back there the next time it's tapped. It's only by using the side rocker buttons that the time will get changed.
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post #1430 of 1436 Old 04-23-2015, 08:09 PM
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Bathrooms

Here is what I am doing in my ground floor bathrooms. This is a retrofit application. Each bathroom was originally fitted with a 3 gang switch box wired as 1st gang vanity light, 2nd gang ceiling light (integral to exhaust fan), and 3rd gang exhaust fan. The switches were replaced as follows: 1st gang RadioRA 2 seeTouch hybrid keypad 3-button spaced with raise/lower RRD‑H3BSRL; 2nd gang RRD-6CL; and 3rd gang MA-T51. The top button on the hybrid dimmer actuates the "normal" lights-on scene for the bathroom, the middle button actuates a night time scene (night light), and the bottom button turns lights off. The exhaust fan countdown timer is not part of the Radio Ra2 system and must be operated manually. However, aesthetically it matches. See the attached picture.
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post #1431 of 1436 Old 04-23-2015, 08:24 PM
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Bathrooms B

Here is a different application for a bathroom with new construction, which is not suitable for retrofits. The lighting loads for this bathroom are run to a 4 gang masonry box in an adjacent closet where a Grafik Eye controls the loads. In the bathroom is a 2 gang box at the door with a keypad for the Grafik Eye in one gang and a MA-T51 countdown timer in the other gang. Again operation of the exhaust fan is manual since the MA-T51 is not part of the Radio Ra2 or Grafik Eye system. This allows the four different lighting loads to be controlled with scenes while presenting only a 2 gang box to the user in the room. See pictures below.
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Last edited by CSO; 04-24-2015 at 03:34 AM.
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post #1432 of 1436 Old Yesterday, 12:43 AM
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Triathlon Honeycomb fabric double sided?

I'm trying to figure out if the Triathlon Honeycomb fabrics are double sided. I heard it depends but the Rio collection are double sided. But I got a Rio Truffle sample from Serenashades.com and the was fabric colored only on one side -- the other side was just white. Perhaps it's double sided for the Triathlon line? Does anyone know for certain? I really need both sides of the fabric to be the same color for one of the large windows.

Also, is the headrail in the Rio line made of aluminum (not plastic), painted to match the fabric? Thx.
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post #1433 of 1436 Old Yesterday, 05:06 AM
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I'm trying to figure out if the Triathlon Honeycomb fabrics are double sided. I heard it depends but the Rio collection are double sided. But I got a Rio Truffle sample from Serenashades.com and the was fabric colored only on one side -- the other side was just white.
I think you misunderstood what dual-sided fabric means. Dual-sided means that front and back *are* different. See below the quote from FAQ.


What are “dual-sided” fabrics?

All of our insulating honeycomb shade fabrics and select roller shade fabrics are “dual-sided,” meaning
these materials have a white backing. With this, every room can have a signature look, while still
maintaining a uniform appearance on the outside of your home. A uniform appearance will help meet
certain building regulations, such as those put in place by some homeowners’ associations. The white
backing also helps reflect the sun’s rays, reducing HVAC costs and saving energy
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post #1434 of 1436 Old Yesterday, 10:21 PM
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Thx! So why is the Rio collection so much more than the Monaco collection? I thought it was because the fabric color was on both sides but it sounds like the fabric is the same except for color.
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post #1435 of 1436 Old Today, 04:08 AM
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Thx! So why is the Rio collection so much more than the Monaco collection? I thought it was because the fabric color was on both sides but it sounds like the fabric is the same except for color.
It's more expensive because the colors are not part of the standard set that I assume they sell a lot more of. The head rail is also made of aluminum instead of vinyl. So the Rio collection is considered more high end and therefore they charge more.
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post #1436 of 1436 Old Today, 08:12 AM
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So why is the Rio collection so much more than the Monaco collection?
Different fabrics have different pricing.

I checked and all honeycomb fabrics are dual sided. If you want fabric which has the same color on the front and back, you have two options: pick white color fabric, or switch to roller.

BTW, you can see characteristics of all available fabrics in the Lutron's "Lutron Fabrics" app. For Triathlon line, select "Essentials" collection.
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