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post #1531 of 1904 Old 11-10-2015, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by kokan View Post
This question is about TouchPro and RadioRa2. Home has let's say, ten zones. Each zone has its own TouchPro. Can RadioRa2 be used to turn on or off all ten TouchPros at the same time? Guests won't have access to IPhone/IPad application so I hope there is a RadioRa2 keypad that can be used for it. Is it possible, what Radiora2 keypad will work, and is there any other Radiora2 equipment necessary to achieve it? Thanks!
Not sure what the real question is but each TouchPro can be controlled independently like most Thermostats, so guests can just operate them directly. If they are remotely mounted, I'd suggest other equipment. You zoned the system so you could have zone control, so why do we want them all to come on/off?

All you can really do from any RR2 keypad is set up a couple scenes perhaps to set all TouchPros to pre-determined levels. And maybe you set those to extremes so they are effectively on or off.

There are preset Scenes on the TouchPros for "Wake", "Away", "Home", & "Sleep". I'd suggest incorporating those also.

On top of that you can integrate some timeclock events. If this is a rental or similar with frequent turnover you may want a regular time clock event to effectively re-set to a certain scene or temperature for each or all in case they are left on by the occupant. Perhaps every afternoon or evening return to a certain temperature.

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post #1532 of 1904 Old 11-10-2015, 10:52 AM
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Not sure what the real question is .
I am trying to figure out how to turn ON or OFF all ten TouchPros at the same time using RadioRa2. Thanks.
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post #1533 of 1904 Old 11-10-2015, 12:33 PM
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I am trying to figure out how to turn ON or OFF all ten TouchPros at the same time using RadioRa2. Thanks.
You can only turn them on/off directly on the unit. From a keypad you can only bring it to a pre-defined temperature for Heating/Cooling.

I would use the example I suggested to turn them on and off. Bring them to a temperature so extreme they won't realistically get there for that environment. If you need to permanently shut something off, use a plug in appliance module (for the HVAC controls only) or interrupt the thermostats with VCRX.

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post #1534 of 1904 Old 11-10-2015, 12:43 PM
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That and with 10 zones you're very likely going to exceed the number of devices supported by RA2. 100 per main repeater, two per site.

If you want conditionals and a lot of devices then you're into the Homeworks QS territory. It's well worth considering if you're anywhere near close to RA2 limits.

That and HVAC systems don't typically benefit from guests flipping them on/off. Steady temps are generally much more energy efficient. There's a lot of variables to consider, but without knowing any details it'd be hard to estimate.
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post #1535 of 1904 Old 11-10-2015, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post
You can only turn them on/off directly on the unit. From a keypad you can only bring it to a pre-defined temperature for Heating/Cooling.

I would use the example I suggested to turn them on and off. Bring them to a temperature so extreme they won't realistically get there for that environment. If you need to permanently shut something off, use a plug in appliance module (for the HVAC controls only) or interrupt the thermostats with VCRX.
Looks like that are all options we have. Thanks for your help!
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post #1536 of 1904 Old 11-10-2015, 03:57 PM
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That and with 10 zones you're very likely going to exceed the number of devices supported by RA2.
.
I wish...shades and audio/video are given to another company so this ten Touchpros and the main repeater are the only things we will do. Thanks.
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post #1537 of 1904 Old 11-10-2015, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by kokan View Post
I am trying to figure out how to turn ON or OFF all ten TouchPros at the same time using RadioRa2. Thanks.
The larger question is WHY?

There's an old saying "when all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail." The same applies to questions about potentially complicated configurations. At some point when someone asks something vague, like your initial question, it often means they've got a nail and want to know how to use their wrench to hammer it.

Asking how to turn HVAC systems "OFF" is one such question. You don't really ever turn them "OFF". You typically adjust their temperature to a setpoint that provides a standby condition. As in, resetting the heat to a colder temperature when folks are away. Or likewise setting cooling to a higher temp. Bearing in mind that you have to know whether or not your system is in the heating or the cooling mode when you use a setback.

When you use a term like "guests" it raises a whole other set of variables.

If you want effective answers, you do well to explain what sort of rooms/buildings you're trying to control, and what sort of use-patterns will be involved. That and what stage are you at regarding the purchasing/installation of the actual hardware?

So, yeah, some of us DO know the answers, but not for vague questions.
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post #1538 of 1904 Old 11-10-2015, 04:25 PM
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I wish...shades and audio/video are given to another company so this ten Touchpros and the main repeater are the only things we will do. Thanks.
Hmmm, well, this is a forum that has a lot of end-users active on it. Not just installers, and many (most?) of the users here quite often know more than installers.

When I see an answer like that I'm left feeling like there's a customer out there that's about to get handed a system that doesn't actually do what they want, installed by people that didn't care to understand what was actually needed. Nope, just following specs, damned if it won't work, we don't care... <sigh>
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post #1539 of 1904 Old 11-11-2015, 08:40 AM
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Ok, back to useful application questions, has anyone run across an LED reading lamp that can be dimmed by an in-line Lutron dimmer? Like the 3PD.

I've got one of these clipped onto the rails of my child's bunk bed:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G67EPG6

Works great, in that it generates a decent amount of light with absolutely no radiated heat. I had an episode as a child where I fell asleep trying to read while using one of those single-bulb Xmas candle lamps. Man, did mattresses made in the 60's catch fire quickly when they hit the night air! Anyway, I'm interested in encouraging reading but would prefer to avoid repeating my Dad's experience with combustible materials. Using a 3PD helps me manage the use of the light. It's got a timed event set every night, that and it's on keypads, making for easy control from elsewhere in house. I may couple it to a motion sensor and use a much longer delay for shut-off for the 'unoccupied' setting. But motion sensing for sedentary activities is never easy and often more annoying that it's worth. Anyway, that's a different topic.

The downside to that lamp is the dimmer is on the DC side of things, not the transformer feeding it. I tried, and it does not respond to dimming with the 3PD.

So I'm looking to find some kind of similar no/low-heat lighting for this purpose. One that clamps and has a gooseneck would be ideal, but at some point I'd be willing to punt and go with something that hung on the wall.

Anyone run across a lighting need like this?
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post #1540 of 1904 Old 11-13-2015, 10:38 AM
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Anyone run across a lighting need like this?
Haven't seen it, but you can try taking a regular gooseneck lamp of your liking, replace bulb with a dimmable LED (using adapter if needed), connect it to a dimmable power supply, and connect that to the 3PD dimmer.
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post #1541 of 1904 Old 11-13-2015, 10:44 AM
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Trouble is a lot of the replacement LED elements generate a fair amount of heat, which I'm specifically trying to avoid.
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post #1542 of 1904 Old 11-13-2015, 10:46 AM
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Trouble is a lot of the replacement LED elements generate a fair amount of heat, which I'm specifically trying to avoid.
I meant just a low voltage dimmable LED diode, not the replacement LED bulb. It would be small enough to fit into the small lamp, and would require external power supply I mentioned above.
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post #1543 of 1904 Old 11-13-2015, 10:51 AM
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I may try to find an alternative power supply for the existing light. The element accepts being dimmed, which is a good start. Not all LED configurations support being dimmed by voltage change, doing so greatly shortens their life. The trick will be in finding a suitable power supply that'll work with the Lutron in-line dimmer and provide the proper voltage range. I'll have to double-check what voltage the lamp expects and ask that on the lutron forums.
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post #1544 of 1904 Old 12-21-2015, 04:30 PM
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I may try to find an alternative power supply for the existing light. The element accepts being dimmed, which is a good start. Not all LED configurations support being dimmed by voltage change, doing so greatly shortens their life. The trick will be in finding a suitable power supply that'll work with the Lutron in-line dimmer and provide the proper voltage range. I'll have to double-check what voltage the lamp expects and ask that on the lutron forums.
I really wish my thread updates would show up regularly(sorry I didn't see this sooner), anyway....

If you can tell from the power supply if it is Constant Voltage or Constant Current, you may be able to replace with a magnetic based "wall-wart" transformer (constant voltage). [I wish they would have used other terms I think there are a little of a misnomer, just confusing to some] We do this all the time with small cabinet lights. The 3PD is pretty forgiving but I think it's also listed as 10w min. and your lamp it 4w(?) so the magnetic based power supply being a less efficient power supply might get you there. (send me a picture of the transformer ratings if you need help) If it's constant voltage it probably says something like 12VDC 500ma

If it's constant current it may or may not list a voltage, if so usually a range but it will state 350ma, 500ma, or 750ma for that small of a lamp probably 350ma. If this is the type you have there is little you can do except re-build the lamp with some LED tape and use a magnetic wall-wart. (There are other options, but it's probably cheaper to rebuild if you're inclined to do so)

How about just using the RR-15APS (plug in switching module) and leave the dimming locally on the cord? May still have a min. load problem....

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post #1545 of 1904 Old 12-21-2015, 04:38 PM
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No worries. I've configured the 3PD as a switch (not a dimmer) and left the cord adjusted to a desired brightness level (and taped over after that). It's workable for now.

After the holidays I'll see about getting more info about the power supply.

What has worked nicely has been configuring a pair of 3BRL Pico remotes in a two-gang Claro wall plate. Two pieces of 3M Command picture hanging strips on the back... and it looks just like a regular wall switch setup. Works great up next to the bunk bed. No more issues with 'the dark' now that there's local control. Score a win from Paul, Hanks and Lutron!
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post #1546 of 1904 Old 12-21-2015, 04:42 PM
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9.3 is available if you didn't know. Just spoke with another guy on 6.3 and needs to upgrade, these is very tedious if you skip full versions, it doesn't always up-convert if you are more than 1 behind.

Second because of this issue, and if you don't know or have the software you used to program I might suggest adding some convention to you file name structure to let you know what version it was created in. The software I think does this automatically but if you re-name you may not be able to find out except by trial and error opening it in each version until it opens or allows you to convert.

From 9.3 readme

Fixes in 9.3
 Added a support for the new GRAFIK T Phase selectable Dimmer. (Grafik T I believe is still inclusive only)
 Resolved issue with not being able to activate a Main Repeaters when it is in Boot Mode.
 Resolved issue preventing Main Repeater upgrade when using Remote Programming.
 Resolved issue which causes unnecessary XML downloads in the app.
 Resolved an issue where firmware upgrade of two Main Repeater systems would to stop at 98% in GUI.
 Resolved an issue where copy and pasting a time clock mode button on an extracted project file crashes the GUI.
 Resolved an issue where grace period would not work correctly for vacancy sensor in project files converted from database versions less than 7.0.
 Resolved an issue where in an extracted project, time clock events would be scheduled for execution every day, even though they were originally programmed for selected days only.

Known Issues:
1. Emergency heat cannot be forced on from the seeTemp or through an integration command. Emergency heat will still activate when temperature delta is high enough to trigger the Auxiliary heat.
2. With certain enterprise networking equipment the Main repeater cannot be activated when it is in Boot Mode. To address this, connect the Main Repeater directly to the PC or Laptop and activate the Main Repeater.
3. In some instances, when firmware upgrading two main repeaters, the PC tool will report that the firmware update only reaches 98% while the devices do get the firmware update. In this situation, please restart the PC tool. Then choose “Update Main Repeater Firmware” from the tools menu. If both the main repeater version and the latest version shown on the screen match, then there is no need to attempt to update the repeaters again.
4. In some instances, when firmware upgrading a main repeater, users will see the message “You cannot update main repeater firmware over a remote connection”. Please ensure that you are on the same network as your main repeaters. If you still see this message, please restart the software, and reattempt firmware update. If this doesn’t resolve the issue, please contact Technical Support.
5. When using the Verify Low End Trim tool, GRAFIK T devices will save a value slightly different from the value selected.
6. When adding programming via the app to a keypad button that was never programmed to any device in the PC tool, the programming will apply in the app, but the keypad’s physical button will not respond to the programming until it is retransferred from the PC tool.

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post #1547 of 1904 Old 01-13-2016, 06:36 AM
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Hello everybody, I am in the process of wireing up a small room that will be a play room for kids. I want to know how products such as the Phillips hue or lifx lights work in a radio ra2 system. I was thinking it would be cool to have the color effects in a room for the kids, but I'd like to tie it into my existing rra2 sysytem. This way an "all off" , or " night" command could turn these lights off as we all know kids won't always turn them off. I assume the switch would still turn the light on? Would it default to a previous setting? Or would dimming not work? I realize I'd need the hue app or whatnot to change color. Anyway just wondering if anybody has any real world experience or a solution with this situation. Thanks!
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post #1548 of 1904 Old 01-13-2016, 07:11 AM
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Hello everybody, I am in the process of wiring up a small room that will be a play room for kids. I want to know how products such as the Phillips hue or lifx lights work in a radio ra2 system. I was thinking it would be cool to have the color effects in a room for the kids, but I'd like to tie it into my existing rra2 system. This way an "all off" , or " night" command could turn these lights off as we all know kids won't always turn them off. I assume the switch would still turn the light on? Would it default to a previous setting? Or would dimming not work? I realize I'd need the hue app or whatnot to change color. Anyway just wondering if anybody has any real world experience or a solution with this situation. Thanks!
At this point there's no convenient way to directly integrate RGB color strip lighting with a RA2 setup. You could put their power supply on a RA2 RR‑3PD‑1 in-line switch/dimmer module. I have my son's bunkbed reading lamp on one, along with a tabletop disco ball. Neither of those lamps handles dimming, so I have the 3PD's configured as switches.

You could also use the RR‑15APS‑1 appliance module for the same purpose, but the 3PD is sometimes less expensive and more versatile if you even change to a dimmable light.

Most (all?) RGB tape sets are unlikely to respond properly to being used with an external dimmer (RA2 or otherwise). I have the Hue sets and I know they specifically do not. Their controller needs full wall power and it handles dimming itself. Dimming it via wall or in-line voltage changes will disrupt the controller (and potentially damage it). They're more designed to be controlled solely by their own tools, not by in-line or wall dimmers. There's ways to work with LED tapes but not while also having RGB color control. There's currently no convenient way to do controlled color with RA2.

I was leaning toward using a hybrid of a Hue controller with 3rd party RGB tape. But Philips recent firmware changes have made me (and many others) VERY leery of trusting just what they will or won't support. Basically, since teaming up with Apple and Homekit they're playing the dick-move of proprietary-only support, where they originally supported standard zigbee devices. Not cool (nor has their recent firmware honestly back-tracked, contrary to their press releases).

There are other contenders for RGBW tape control (Fibraro, Dresden) and I'm looking into them. The trouble is getting the same kind of reliable and quality control of them, as they're z-wave and zigbee and there's no direct way to use them with RA2. At least not without moving to a 3rd party controller (SmartThings, Wink, Vera, etc) but then you're tacking on a whole other set of hassles.

Lutron has REALLY dropped the ball when it comes to emerging home automation initiatives. It's shocking how tone-deaf they've been to it.
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post #1549 of 1904 Old 01-13-2016, 08:56 AM
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At this point there's no convenient way to directly integrate RGB color strip lighting with a RA2 setup. You could put their power supply on a RA2 RR‑3PD‑1 in-line switch/dimmer module. I have my son's bunkbed reading lamp on one, along with a tabletop disco ball. Neither of those lamps handles dimming, so I have the 3PD's configured as switches.

You could also use the RR‑15APS‑1 appliance module for the same purpose, but the 3PD is sometimes less expensive and more versatile if you even change to a dimmable light.

Most (all?) RGB tape sets are unlikely to respond properly to being used with an external dimmer (RA2 or otherwise). I have the Hue sets and I know they specifically do not. Their controller needs full wall power and it handles dimming itself. Dimming it via wall or in-line voltage changes will disrupt the controller (and potentially damage it). They're more designed to be controlled solely by their own tools, not by in-line or wall dimmers. There's ways to work with LED tapes but not while also having RGB color control. There's currently no convenient way to do controlled color with RA2.

I was leaning toward using a hybrid of a Hue controller with 3rd party RGB tape. But Philips recent firmware changes have made me (and many others) VERY leery of trusting just what they will or won't support. Basically, since teaming up with Apple and Homekit they're playing the dick-move of proprietary-only support, where they originally supported standard zigbee devices. Not cool (nor has their recent firmware honestly back-tracked, contrary to their press releases).

There are other contenders for RGBW tape control (Fibraro, Dresden) and I'm looking into them. The trouble is getting the same kind of reliable and quality control of them, as they're z-wave and zigbee and there's no direct way to use them with RA2. At least not without moving to a 3rd party controller (SmartThings, Wink, Vera, etc) but then you're tacking on a whole other set of hassles.

Lutron has REALLY dropped the ball when it comes to emerging home automation initiatives. It's shocking how tone-deaf they've been to it.
Thanks for the great response! I didn't think there was a " great " solution. I have a family room/ theater space planned out in the basement and would like to incorporate RGBW lighting with, or along side of the RRA2. I won't be getting to that aspect of the space for at least 2 yrs so I'm hoping a more integrated solution comes along by then.

As for the kids space, I could for-go the rra2 dimming and just set it up as a switch. Wouldn't the hue light still work? It would always have full power when on. I would then use the hue app to control color. I guess I haven't been around those lights, does the manual switch to the fixture have to left on, and the hue's software and hardware turn it off? I'm talking about a br-30 bulb and not the tape. Thanks for clearing this up!
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post #1550 of 1904 Old 01-13-2016, 11:02 AM
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Correct, anything with a controller will still work, provided you power it on before using whatever other controls it needs. This applies to tapes, bulbs, accent lights, etc. The downside is whatever software or controller you might be using obviously won't be able to turn them on since the controller in them won't be getting power.

At this point the only glimmer of hope for Lutron is the fact they've put the RF control into devices like the Wink or a Staples hub. Neither of which are very robust solutions, and they're only supporting the Caseta variant of the Lutron RF. Which is entirely bogus as Caseta's RF is *exactly* the same tech as that used by RA2. Lutron's really backed themselves into a corner pretending otherwise. Caseta hasn't gained the sales they'd like (butt ugly, no advertising, 50 device fake limit) and RA2's been left in the cold. Meanwhile QS isn't exactly leading the market either.
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post #1551 of 1904 Old 01-13-2016, 11:34 AM
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Correct, anything with a controller will still work, provided you power it on before using whatever other controls it needs. This applies to tapes, bulbs, accent lights, etc. The downside is whatever software or controller you might be using obviously won't be able to turn them on since the controller in them won't be getting power.

At this point the only glimmer of hope for Lutron is the fact they've put the RF control into devices like the Wink or a Staples hub. Neither of which are very robust solutions, and they're only supporting the Caseta variant of the Lutron RF. Which is entirely bogus as Caseta's RF is *exactly* the same tech as that used by RA2. Lutron's really backed themselves into a corner pretending otherwise. Caseta hasn't gained the sales they'd like (butt ugly, no advertising, 50 device fake limit) and RA2's been left in the cold. Meanwhile QS isn't exactly leading the market either.
Announced in October, from a couple pages ago:

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Originally Posted by bpfunk View Post
In addition to some new LED friendly hybrid keypad offerings, seeing the Lutron Connect Bridge and software showing up under radiora2 on the Lutron website. Do we think the caseta-like software and bridge coming to radiora 2?


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post #1552 of 1904 Old 01-13-2016, 12:08 PM
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The Connect Bridge functionality has not been defined anywhere, at least not publicly. From what I gather it's just a link to the same kind of Xively cloud service that's been problematic for the Caseta gear. I'm guessing the existing RA2 repeaters in the field don't have the necessary specs to act as a bridge on their own. Likely not enough memory, CPU or both. That and a Caseta hub has both the bridge AND local device repeater functionality. So throwing a Caseta hub at it would be overkill in that there's a radio in there that "doesn't need to be". At the same time there's probably enough about the Caseta hubs that prevent them from being a direct replacement of a RA2 repeater. So I'm guessing they're splitting the cloud features out and making it just a bridge. For a lot of (smart) people that's not a good solution.

It's kind of unfortunate they haven't taken the step of moving their HWQS controllers toward the mass market. Reinventing the wheel to interface with unreliable cloud solutions doesn't seem like a good plan. For a bunch of reasons, for me it's about response time and security. Neither of which are acceptable with cloud-based solutions for home automation.

The bind they've got themselves in is because they're trying to sell exactly the same tech into different markets and pretending the customers won't be smart enough to tell. Or that integrators will somehow rise up and be motivated enough to make the sales pitch that cons the customers into being gouged. The customers aren't that dumb anymore (if they ever were). Nor are the integrators interested in being played the fool in the middle (aka rip-and-replace Caseta). This is likely among the many reasons Caseta hasn't sold in the volumes they'd like. It was too crippled, too ugly and offered too little to clearly differentiate itself. That and Lutron did zero marketing for it. The customers have bought based on price and other company marketing efforts.

It would seem a lot smarter to just bail on having Caseta as a separate product line. Better to blend Caseta and RA2 together (because they're exactly the same tech), sell it at Caseta's price point and offer an all-in-one hub for it that could still work in situations where multiple repeaters are necessary. Basically, put an extra serial and slave port on a Caseta Smart Pro hub. Ditch trying to pretend that Caseta and Serena aren't exactly the same gear as RA2 and Sivoia (with less fabric options). There's a huge mid-range of consumers out there that want more than Caseta but are unwilling to be lead down the HWQS path (for any number of reasons).

I suppose the only real risk here is some RA2 customers are going to feel slighted that they've been paying too much. That and integrators will potentially have to work harder to sell services, not just inflated margins. I'd certainly have been glad to pay less, don't get me wrong, but I paid what I consider a reasonable price for what has been excellent gear. I'll gladly buy a number of new Caseta-only offerings like the plug-in modules. I'm sure a lot of Caseta customers would love to make use of RA2 color choices, sensors and (more importantly) up to 200 devices.

At what point does the momentum of sales going to the competition have to become so glaringly obvious that they need to move against it? Or are they going to follow their founder? Have they lost their way that badly?
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post #1553 of 1904 Old 01-19-2016, 08:44 AM
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I know the glass wallplates (clear, green) are supposed to be reserved for QS Architectural and 'New Architectural' Grafik T, but could the Architectural SeeTouch Accessory Wallplate be used for RA2 KPs and dimmers?

Example: LFGR-1-CWH


http://www.lutron.com/en-US/Products...itectural.aspx

Looks like a simple Decora opening, for the Architectural Accessory wallplate, used for outlets and low voltage items, available in 1-, 2-, and 3-gang configurations.

Any insight would be appreciated.

Edit - this would be the same glass wallplate used for a Pico, in a QS install

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post #1554 of 1904 Old 01-19-2016, 09:49 AM
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I am installing some undercabinet and in-cabinet lights, and these will be controlled with 2 in-cabinet RA2 dimmers. Wall-mounted KP nearby for scene control.

I am trying to decide on additional, more easily accessible control(s). Was thinking about a Pico taped under each end of this relatively long cabinet. Which Pico? Am leaning toward a 2-button, scene on and scene off, easier to operate without looking than a 2 button with raise/lower, or a 3 button. Good/bad idea?

Could an undercabinet occupancy sensor be configured to utilize a hand wave in the right spot? How effective is the PIR Lens Mask (L-CMDPIRKIT)? Could I just mask most of the sensors, so that a hand passing between the undercabinet Occupancy Sensor and the wall turn on the light, e.g., for 5 minutes? Or, use a Pico or KP to turn off the light.

If anyone has tried either, please give me some feedback. Thanks!

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post #1555 of 1904 Old 01-20-2016, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post
I am installing some undercabinet and in-cabinet lights, and these will be controlled with 2 in-cabinet RA2 dimmers. Wall-mounted KP nearby for scene control.

I am trying to decide on additional, more easily accessible control(s). Was thinking about a Pico taped under each end of this relatively long cabinet. Which Pico? Am leaning toward a 2-button, scene on and scene off, easier to operate without looking than a 2 button with raise/lower, or a 3 button. Good/bad idea?

Could an undercabinet occupancy sensor be configured to utilize a hand wave in the right spot? How effective is the PIR Lens Mask (L-CMDPIRKIT)? Could I just mask most of the sensors, so that a hand passing between the undercabinet Occupancy Sensor and the wall turn on the light, e.g., for 5 minutes? Or, use a Pico or KP to turn off the light.

If anyone has tried either, please give me some feedback. Thanks!
I find the round Lutron occupancy sensors to be very good. I installed a round sensor in my wife's walk in closet, and she is very picky about home automation. It has worked well for her. You could certainly mount a round sensor under your room's upper cabinet and waive a hand to activate the light. This would be an effective solution. Is there a reason that you wouldn't just mount the occupancy sensor on the ceiling of the room and let it activate an entire scene?

On the other hand, the Picos are really convenient. They can be mounted almost anywhere. I just mounted Picos on the bedside tables in my children's rooms.

I think you would be happy with either Pico or occupancy sensor. It just depends on what level of automation and degree of interaction you want with the system in your room.

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post #1556 of 1904 Old 01-21-2016, 04:44 AM
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I find the round Lutron occupancy sensors to be very good. I installed a round sensor in my wife's walk in closet, and she is very picky about home automation. It has worked well for her. You could certainly mount a round sensor under your room's upper cabinet and waive a hand to activate the light. This would be an effective solution. Is there a reason that you wouldn't just mount the occupancy sensor on the ceiling of the room and let it activate an entire scene?

On the other hand, the Picos are really convenient. They can be mounted almost anywhere. I just mounted Picos on the bedside tables in my children's rooms.

I think you would be happy with either Pico or occupancy sensor. It just depends on what level of automation and degree of interaction you want with the system in your room.
That's good to hear about the occupancy sensors. I'm unsure if the sensor profile will be too obvious, mounted under-cabinet. There is a lip around the bottom edge of the upper cabinets, designed to hide the light strip (aka 'light rail/molding'), but the occupancy sensor may still be too visible. I don't want to drill, for flush mounting; undercabinet has a nice veneer.

This row of cabinets is in a high traffic area, separating the kitchen from the rest of the house, and we have ceiling downlights that handle most of the lighting, for daily use. Undercabinet strip light hasn't been installed yet, so I'm unsure how helpful the light will really be, for the most common scene.

I ordered an occupancy sensor (from spiwrx, at Hank's Electric, thanks Paul!), to try it out the hand wave. We'll see how it goes. Picos will be a great fall-back, and Hybrid Keypad will be wall-mounted next to the cabinets - the previous undercabinet light was operated from a wall-mounted toggle.

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post #1557 of 1904 Old 01-21-2016, 04:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post
I know the glass wallplates (clear, green) are supposed to be reserved for QS Architectural and 'New Architectural' Grafik T, but could the Architectural SeeTouch Accessory Wallplate be used for RA2 KPs and dimmers?

Example: LFGR-1-CWH


http://www.lutron.com/en-US/Products...itectural.aspx

Looks like a simple Decora opening, for the Architectural Accessory wallplate, used for outlets and low voltage items, available in 1-, 2-, and 3-gang configurations.

Any insight would be appreciated.

Edit - this would be the same glass wallplate used for a Pico, in a QS install
spiwrx confirmed that the RA2 KPs and dimmers fit into the Lutron Glass Faceplates, LFGR-1, LFGR-2, and LFGR-3. He found this image:



and he provided the documentation: http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocum...369756_ENG.pdf

He also said the new C/L Hybrid Keypad will be released very soon.

Thanks, Paul. Greatly appreciated!

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post #1558 of 1904 Old 01-21-2016, 05:44 AM
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I was going to say, be careful of the load. ELV lighting may not play very well with hybrid keypads, but then I saw your comment about the new CL hybrid keypads coming. Hopefully the new CL hybrid devices will be able to handle ELV loads better.

Last edited by CSO; 01-21-2016 at 03:34 PM.
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post #1559 of 1904 Old 01-21-2016, 08:07 AM
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I was going to say, be careful of the load, ELV lighting may not play very well with hybrid keypads, but then I saw your comment about the new CL hybrid keypads coming. Hopefully the new CL dimmers will be able to handle ELV loads better.
I had a relatively bad experience with a CL dimmer, for a low watt LED load. Solved with a 6NA.

I have 3 other Hybrid KPs planned, for the future. If this standard Hybrid KP doesn't work well for this location, I have a backup plan for it.

Anyone have recs for a high CRI LED A19? Cree TW have been getting mixed reviews lately.

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post #1560 of 1904 Old 01-21-2016, 08:50 AM
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You are right about the high CRI A19 bulb. Why haven't manufacturers jumped on this? It seems most consumers either don't know or care about CRI. If a LED bulb lasts umpteen years then I don't want to be stuck with one that emits a poor quality of light.

The Cree TW's are good--very good, in the right application, but light dispersion with them can be an issue. They use a special film coating on the globe to achieve their high CRI. While they're probably the best LED A19 bulb available, it seems there could be better. FWIW, I've had 3 Cree TW A19 bulbs in service for over two years with good results.

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