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Old 05-01-2016, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Swancoat View Post
And what about the apps... So Home+ I point at the IP for my Main Repeater... if I want to use LutronConnect do I have to point it at the Connect Bridge? I see LutronConnect has widgets (Which are SUPER useful for home lighting). As is the theme here... it seems silly that I would have to buy the connect bridge just to use widgets. (Hopefully I'm wrong there and I can just use the new app with the main repeater, but the description on the app store suggests you need the bridge).
Correct, you must have a Connect Bridge to use the new app. The old app is, from what I gather, being frozen as 'feature complete'. Anything new is going to happen via the new app and bridge.

What's not clear is how much can still be communicated on-site from the app to the local hardware without having to transverse through the Xively cloud. As in, what exactly still works regardless of internet connectivity?
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Old 05-01-2016, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by wkearney99 View Post
What's not clear is how much can still be communicated on-site from the app to the local hardware without having to transverse through the Xively cloud. As in, what exactly still works regardless of internet connectivity?
Supposedly, new Connect app is capable of offline, direct-to-connect bridge communications. That is the first thing I'm going to test once my bridge arrives...
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Old 05-02-2016, 05:54 AM
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notek, I'm not sure that's true, see below for why. I will say that I can change my Honeywell thermostat in app and it changes the Web services. A total lack of awareness by the main repeater connect or any connect devices exists is crazy though.

All, please check out the following link I posted on the Lutron forums and see if you have any feedback you'd like to share with Lutron (it monitors those forums) or share here: Major Connect Bridge Problem
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Old 05-02-2016, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by schalliol View Post
notek, I'm not sure that's true, see below for why. I will say that I can change my Honeywell thermostat in app and it changes the Web services. A total lack of awareness by the main repeater connect or any connect devices exists is crazy though.

All, please check out the following link I posted on the Lutron forums and see if you have any feedback you'd like to share with Lutron (it monitors those forums) or share here: Major Connect Bridge Problem
There can certainly be a difference between how the native RA2 devices operate and how the integration with 3rd party products is accomplished. Very possible that getting the link between the Honeywell thermostat is done service-to-service in the cloud, while talking to RA2 devices can be done locally, and completely off-line.

So you're probably both right, but talking about a different set of devices...

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Old 05-02-2016, 07:18 AM
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You guys all have me at a disadvantage. I didn't have any extra in my orders to keep one for myself!! Hopefully you'll all have this ironed out for when I get mine!!!

I need the VCRX functionality mostly, as my pool/spa panel is based on a VCRX. However I'm all ready on a "Virtual" keypad, so as long as they all still exist, I'm fine.
One of the only reasons I can see to use the VPN is for heating/air, or in in my case the pool/spa.

Whats gets me, is the momentary should be the default and show up on the app as thats what the VCRX is primarily for! (Maybe I misunderstood understood you statement)

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Old 05-02-2016, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by jautor View Post
There can certainly be a difference between how the native RA2 devices operate and how the integration with 3rd party products is accomplished.
Bingo!

Still waiting here on my (backordered) connect...
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Old 05-03-2016, 01:14 AM
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In another thread, Mike suggested Lutron will be working on some updates (no specifics), and any feedback is great. I think I've made my feedback clear, but perhaps I was a little too enthusiastic about it. Knowing the team is working on expanding the functionality is very helpful.
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Old 05-03-2016, 04:04 AM
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I received my bridge yesterday. I can find it in 10.0 essentials but when I use the Lutron Connect app it says I can't connect to the internet.

Last edited by trx250r87; 05-03-2016 at 07:13 AM.
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Old 05-03-2016, 08:00 AM
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Sorry if this has already been asked, but are there mounting holes on the bottom of the Bridge?
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Old 05-03-2016, 04:38 PM
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Sorry if this has already been asked, but are there mounting holes on the bottom of the Bridge?
I only have the Caseta bridge here to check but I think (?) it the same case, if so, no.

When I get one, I'll draw up a something you can 3D print if you like...

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Old 05-03-2016, 04:52 PM
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My bridge does NOT have holes on the bottom just 4 round rubber pads.
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Old 05-04-2016, 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by trx250r87 View Post
My bridge does NOT have holes on the bottom just 4 round rubber pads.
Ok, thanks for the info. Gonna have to use Command strips to mount it vertically.
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Old 05-04-2016, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Garber View Post
Ok, thanks for the info. Gonna have to use Command strips to mount it vertically.
Also note that the bridge requires a wired Ethernet connection. It has no wireless aspect to it. So you could put it anywhere that has a wired network connection. It doesn't have to be near the main repeater. Since the button has to be pressed in order to activate an app you'd probably want to make sure it in a place where the customer can get to it without too much trouble.
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Old 05-04-2016, 03:51 PM
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What RF features does the Connect Bridge have? It must have something, because there's an antenna connected to the circuit board inside.

Anyone had a look-see inside of a Caseta Bridge? I'd be VERY curious to compare the two...
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Old 05-05-2016, 05:17 AM
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Speaking of Caseta, I was playing around with an Amazon Echo last night and happen to come across an app they have for voice control of a Caseta system. Since I have a Radio RA2, I tried it but it doesn't work with my system. I was surprised that Lutron hasn't released an add-in for RA2, since I understand that Caseta and RA2 are closely related. Why are they leaving us RA2 owners behind?

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Old 05-05-2016, 05:05 PM
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They are working on it. It will take them a while.
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Old 05-06-2016, 05:25 AM
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Originally Posted by notek View Post
They are working on it. It will take them a while.
I wouldn't hold my breath on it. They seem to be committed to keeping RA2 & Caseta separate. Even with the confusion that's going to create in the market, and the feature-disparity between the two.
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Old 05-06-2016, 05:58 AM
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You can't use Home+. You need the new Lutron Connect app.
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Old 05-06-2016, 06:17 PM
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You can't use Home+. You need the new Lutron Connect app.
Can't, for what?

The Home+ app continues to work just fine, both on-site and remotely. What you won't get with it is anything more than what it does now. I got the impression it's reached 'feature complete' and won't have any significant updates/changes made to it. But they indicated it WILL continue to work for the foreseeable future.

And right now the tablet version of the Connect app... isn't. It's just the same Home+ app with a new icon.
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Old 05-06-2016, 06:21 PM
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My mistake. Agreed on the tablet version. Hopefully they'll update the iOS one to be a modern app.
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Old 05-06-2016, 06:29 PM
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My mistake. Agreed on the tablet version. Hopefully they'll update the iOS one to be a modern app.
No worries, it's all new stuff and there's bound to be a few rough spots here and there. I'd like to be cheerful and optimistic about potential updates. I would, really. But holding my breath, I am not.
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Old 05-09-2016, 01:33 PM
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So I have about 25 Lutron RadioRa2 dimmers installed for about a year. In the last 6 months, I have had 3 RRD-6CLs go out. No electrical surges, whole home surge protection, no other electrical issues, etc. It happens but I just bring it up because Lutron is supposed to be the reliable product and everybody bashes Insteon's reliability. It is a sample of one so may be not that helpful but just a note for those considering. For the record, I am very happy otherwise.
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Old 05-09-2016, 01:38 PM
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I have had 3 RRD-6CLs go out.
What kind of lighting load did you have on them? What bulbs/fixtures?

What kind of lighting regime? Full on, dimmed to specific level or multiple ranges?

What did Lutron support have to say about the reason for the failures?

I'd be curious to know what might have contributed to them failing. Besides the chance of their being defective, of course. That's always a possibility, for anyone's lighting dimmers.
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Old 05-09-2016, 02:16 PM
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Nearly all of the Lutron dimmer/switch failures we've seen have been from either lightning/surge damage, from overloaded devices running over their maximum rated load, or most often from not properly derating based on their location within a multi-gang installation. We've seen literally dozens of 1000W+ chandelier loads attached to a 600W dimmer that should have been derated to 400W given its center-gang location. Also, while the constant load is nearly always lower with LED lighting, they are much harder on dimming circuits than incandescents due to the large in-rush currents. Most residential electricians simply don't pay attention to the specs or just don't care.
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Old 05-09-2016, 03:17 PM
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Nearly all of the Lutron dimmer/switch failures we've seen have been from either lightning/surge damage, from overloaded devices running over their maximum rated load, or most often from not properly derating based on their location within a multi-gang installation. We've seen literally dozens of 1000W+ chandelier loads attached to a 600W dimmer that should have been derated to 400W given its center-gang location. Also, while the constant load is nearly always lower with LED lighting, they are much harder on dimming circuits than incandescents due to the large in-rush currents. Most residential electricians simply don't pay attention to the specs or just don't care.
I agree regarding improper load/derating issues and electrician ignorance.

Which is why I asked what kind of lighting was on them. I'm not looking to point blame, just to widen the discussion regarding lighting loads and potential impact that has on dimmer setups. Lighting has always had these kinds of complications, at least with regard to dimmers. LED lighting, however, brings along a whole other rats nest of complications.

The best advice I can give anyone considering LED lighting is that if you're "picky" about your lighting then do some research into the LED fixtures you're considering BEFORE you spend your money. They're not all created equal. Honestly, neither were incandescent bulbs; but they tended to be less noticeable visually or less demanding on dimmer requirements. But, oi, did they tend to generate a lot of heat at the dimmer!

Given the LED will fade over time, consider what's going to happen when you need to replace one. IF (and that's a VERY big IF) you can find the same element, you'll then be faced with it putting out the 'brand new' level of light, not the faded level coming from your other bulbs. So be prepared to replace all of them at the same time, at least those visible together as a group of lights.

Me, I stayed with halogen incandescent bulbs for all my recessed lighting. I've got two sets of spares for the whole house, to avoid availability problems for a while. For table lamps I've had decent luck with some Cree LED bulbs. At some point I'll find some screw-in LED replacements that give me to the same color temp & light output. Until then I'm happy to be avoiding the bleeding edge of LED/dimmer adventures.
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Old 05-10-2016, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by SweetSpot View Post
Nearly all of the Lutron dimmer/switch failures we've seen have been from either lightning/surge damage, from overloaded devices running over their maximum rated load, or most often from not properly derating based on their location within a multi-gang installation. We've seen literally dozens of 1000W+ chandelier loads attached to a 600W dimmer that should have been derated to 400W given its center-gang location. Also, while the constant load is nearly always lower with LED lighting, they are much harder on dimming circuits than incandescents due to the large in-rush currents. Most residential electricians simply don't pay attention to the specs or just don't care.
Not in this case. No surge that I know. I supposed I cant be certain but no other sensitive electronic failures or other signs. There is no need to derate based on maximum load with incadescents. But the dimmers are no where near the maximum as the dimmers are for receptacles with LED bulbs. The loads are mostly full on. Perhaps they aren't playing well with the LEDs. I am using Cree par38 90w equivalent flood, gen 1. Its not a big issue. Electronic components fail. Maybe a bad batch. Who knows. And honestly I didn't bother to send them back. I suppose I should have just for r&d purposes but it was easier just to replace.

I did try quite a few LED brands before settling on the Cree. I have been happy with their performance and lighting characteristics. I have only had one fail prematurely out of about 25. They did change styles and are now onto gen2 and while they are supposed to be same brightness and color temp (3000k), the replacement is slightly cooler but not really noticeable by anyone but me.

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Old 05-11-2016, 10:32 AM
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Given the cost of the switches it would seem a bit extravagant to just toss them aside. That and with up to 8 years warranty coverage it'd likewise be kind of a waste. But it's your time/money.

That and a call to their 800 number can give you a heads-up on just how well a bulb will work with a given dimmer. The online listing contains only those bulbs that have been test AND that the manufacturer has 'approved for listing'. There are a great many more bulbs they've tested that are not listed. Many more have been tested and found OK, but haven't been approved by the vendor. Sometimes the vendor never responds to Lutron's request. This according to Lutron personnel in classes. They obviously avoid listing failures, because that doesn't help anyone (and invites the vendors lawyers to complain). But they can say things on the phone, both positive and negative regarding others they've encountered.

I made the comment regarding color and light levels because it's not clear to most folks (and wasn't to me). LED lighting output numbers is a bit of a boondoggle, it seems. Not all devices put out consistent amounts of light over time. This wasn't as noticeable with incandescents. Some lose their output faster than others. So while the element is "still lighting up" it may not be doing so at the original levels.

Yes, as if LED lighting wasn't complicated enough already...

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Old 05-12-2016, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by A&M 350Z View Post
Not in this case. No surge that I know. I supposed I cant be certain but no other sensitive electronic failures or other signs. There is no need to derate based on maximum load with incadescents. But the dimmers are no where near the maximum as the dimmers are for receptacles with LED bulbs. The loads are mostly full on. Perhaps they aren't playing well with the LEDs. I am using Cree par38 90w equivalent flood, gen 1. Its not a big issue. Electronic components fail. Maybe a bad batch. Who knows. And honestly I didn't bother to send them back. I suppose I should have just for r&d purposes but it was easier just to replace.
That is definitely NOT correct. When you remove both fins to center-gang a 6CL the maximum incandescent load is 400W. It is right in the manual: http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocum...9-225i_ENG.pdf (PG.8)
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Old 05-12-2016, 09:25 AM
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There is no need to derate based on maximum load with incadescents.
As 'sweet points out, yeah, there is. When you have a dimmer installed in-between others you do need to remove the tangs on the sides. As a result of which you're reducing the total amount of heat the dimmer can safely dissipate. Those little metal bits are there to shed heat. A dimmer sandwiched in-between others won't be able to lose that heat as effectively as one alone, or on the end. You wouldn't think it'd matter, but it can. That and no vendor wants to spend the extra money to implement something like that. They do so for a reason. Ignoring the recommended installation procedures raises unnecessary risks (like FIRE). But you know this, of course, and have seen it being ignored a lot.

This matters less with the lower wattage LEDs, but then you're up against the startup current demands and overall LED performance/interaction issues. Trouble is the vendors do not make this information easy to find. Thus the value of CALLING LUTRON to ask.

I'm not trying to be pedantic here. A lot of other people are going to come along and read these posts. A few may learn something new along the way. Following proper design and installation guidelines is IMPORTANT for dimmers. LEDs only makes it even more complicated.
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Old 05-13-2016, 04:35 AM
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6CLs have no fins.
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