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post #1681 of 1704 Old 05-25-2016, 08:31 PM
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I purchased these from Lowe's for my nine Halo can lights. They look nice and have worked great for a little over a year now. They dim pretty low too.
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post #1682 of 1704 Old 05-26-2016, 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by FlyingDiver View Post
My builder used the Halo H750ICAT, as I recall.
I thought H750ICAT was the led only. After thinking about it I will likely get edison base cans so that there is a larger selection and options with bulb + trim or led trim. Thanks
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post #1683 of 1704 Old 05-26-2016, 06:35 AM
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I thought H750ICAT was the led only. After thinking about it I will likely get edison base cans so that there is a larger selection and options with bulb + trim or led trim. Thanks
I think you're right. Not sure where I got that number from. I think he actually used H7UICAT for the locations with 6" fixtures and H1499IC for the 4" fixtures.
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post #1684 of 1704 Old 05-30-2016, 04:32 PM
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I just purchased/ordered 12 Serena Palette Translucent Roller Shades with the 4 group remote and a Smart Bridge Pro for Simple Control (roomie). I understand that all shades must be within a 30' radius of the smart bridge. I have 1 shade that is around 40' away. Will I need to add another bridge in order to communicate and use it with the app as well as Homekit and Alexa?

I do not condone what i do, but i will not deny myself the pleasure!
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post #1685 of 1704 Old 05-30-2016, 05:36 PM
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I'd just try it first. Lutron's 30' metric is very conservative. It'll probably work fine.
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post #1686 of 1704 Old 05-30-2016, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by blkicevic View Post
I just purchased/ordered 12 Serena Palette Translucent Roller Shades with the 4 group remote and a Smart Bridge Pro for Simple Control (roomie). I understand that all shades must be within a 30' radius of the smart bridge. I have 1 shade that is around 40' away. Will I need to add another bridge in order to communicate and use it with the app as well as Homekit and Alexa?

It'll be fine in regular wood/drywall construction.

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post #1687 of 1704 Old 05-31-2016, 05:36 AM
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Anyone have any tips to get the new connect found in essentials? I can see it on my dhcp table but just can't seem to find in design tab.


Ended up getting this to work the same way I had to do with the main repeater. Direct connect into the computer. Not sure why I always have this issue with lutron products...firewall I suppose. Works fine over network after activation.
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post #1688 of 1704 Old 06-01-2016, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blkicevic View Post
I just purchased/ordered 12 Serena Palette Translucent Roller Shades with the 4 group remote and a Smart Bridge Pro for Simple Control (roomie). I understand that all shades must be within a 30' radius of the smart bridge. I have 1 shade that is around 40' away. Will I need to add another bridge in order to communicate and use it with the app as well as Homekit and Alexa?
It was mentioned already, but 40' should be fine. Unfortunately you are stuck and one of the reasons to avoid Caseta for more than a room, studio or very small home/apt.condo. There is no Aux Repeater in Caseta and I don't believe
you can add an extra bridge.

On another note, if you are doing shades + Caseta we have another inconsistent lutron-ism. Standard Caseta Bridge only works with Serena RF, with no upgrade path. The Casta Pro Bridge can see both Serena + QS shades. If you plan on doing Shades + Caseta I would recommend the Pro-Bridge plus QS shades. That way if you get stuck you could replace the Caseta with RR2 or other QS system and not have to replace the shades also.

If I didn't mention it already in a previous rant, the Caseta is Cool & easy in function and if you like the style, great. But it was not meant to be a whole home system.

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post #1689 of 1704 Old 06-08-2016, 09:38 PM
 
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I have been promised by my HD dealer that they can integrate HD with Lutron but so far no help
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post #1690 of 1704 Old 06-09-2016, 05:19 AM
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I have been promised by my HD dealer that they can integrate HD with Lutron but so far no help
Is your HD dealer already a Lutron dealer? If so then they'd know there is no way to integrate the two. At least not without using something ($$$) from a 3rd party. Otherwise the dealer doesn't know what they're talking about, which is typical for salespeople...

I have both, RA2 and HD PowerView and, honestly, there's not much need to actually integrate them. Each has their strengths. HD's remote for shades is actually more versatile than Lutron's Pico units. But then Lutron has 'modes' for their automation schedules and PowerView does not offer that. I'd very much like to have a way to trigger more than one kind of mode, especially one that had the ability to randomize execution times for a security mode.
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post #1691 of 1704 Old 06-23-2016, 05:02 PM
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I had a new problem present it self with the remote mounting of some switches, I do not want to shed light on the exact use, because I don't agree with the installation and don't want to promote the purpose. However the solution open my eyes to something I thought might be useful to share if you haven't already figured it out.

The problem is this: We have 3 switches that need to come on in a certain sequence. If they do not, damage to the controlled equipment could occur (no fatal problem, specific injury or fire, but it would damage a few hundred dollars worth of equipment if operated incorrectly) So we can set up scenes on a keypad to handle the sequence, we can play with the timing and delay, so from a keypad it really reduces the risk to almost nothing. However, if they get in the APP they could independently control the switches and in the wrong order, wreck the equipment.

Well, turns out you can disable (dis-enable) the switches from being controlled in the APP from the Settings>Integration Settings > ID's tab. I haven't tested, but apparently, if not "enabled" it will be inoperable from the APP, or possibly excluded from the APP altogether. Again I haven't tested it, but if it removes it from the APP, you could really use it to clean up things up in the APP. Additionally, it would be nice if you could restrict devices by user, but it doesn't look likes that's possible or at least not obvious.
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post #1692 of 1704 Unread 07-25-2016, 08:14 AM
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Another year, another bathroom remodel. Except this time, there seems like there could be more options.

Does the "rollback" feature work well enough to use for a bathroom fan?
Are the Hybrid CL Keypads actually available? I think i saw one listed on ebay, but not sure if it was for real. This could open up more options.

I really just want 3 loads (shower, vanity, and fan).
I would prefer to have 2 switches on the wall, but would settle for 3.
I'd like to have one main switch for the vanity (for ease and guests), and either a keypad or 4 button pico.

It will be a full gut, so I'm thinking that I can route the dimmer for the shower hidden in the vanity.
If the rollback works, then I could also put the fan switch there too (otherwise i'll need the standalone countdown timer in an accessible place)
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post #1693 of 1704 Unread 07-25-2016, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragonian View Post
Another year, another bathroom remodel. Except this time, there seems like there could be more options.

Does the "rollback" feature work well enough to use for a bathroom fan?
Are the Hybrid CL Keypads actually available? I think i saw one listed on ebay, but not sure if it was for real. This could open up more options.

I really just want 3 loads (shower, vanity, and fan).
I would prefer to have 2 switches on the wall, but would settle for 3.
I'd like to have one main switch for the vanity (for ease and guests), and either a keypad or 4 button pico.

It will be a full gut, so I'm thinking that I can route the dimmer for the shower hidden in the vanity.
If the rollback works, then I could also put the fan switch there too (otherwise i'll need the standalone countdown timer in an accessible place)
Rollback hasn't been working 100% for me - I've been testing it in a coat closet, and sometimes it just doesn't work...

For a vent fan, I think it would be ok. I wouldn't use it for lights in a bathroom though.

For a bathroom with guests, I think a motion/vacancy sensor would be better. Imagine guest 1 comes in, turns on lights (and activates, say, a 15 min rollback)... they do their thing, and leave without turning off the lights. 10 minutes later guest 2 comes in, lights are on, and he starts doing his thing, but then the 15 min rollback activates and guest 2 is left sitting in the dark... Not an ideal situation, especially in a powder room that may not have natural light from windows.
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post #1694 of 1704 Unread 07-25-2016, 08:43 AM
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For a vent fan, I think it would be ok. I wouldn't use it for lights in a bathroom though.

For a bathroom with guests, I think a motion/vacancy sensor would be better. Imagine guest 1 comes in, turns on lights (and activates, say, a 15 min rollback)... they do their thing, and leave without turning off the lights. 10 minutes later guest 2 comes in, lights are on, and he starts doing his thing, but then the 15 min rollback activates and guest 2 is left sitting in the dark... Not an ideal situation, especially in a powder room that may not have natural light from windows.
Yeah, I think it would be only for the vent fan, I don't think I would use it for the lights. It's for a main bath anyways.
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post #1695 of 1704 Unread 07-25-2016, 08:57 AM
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Yeah, I think it would be only for the vent fan, I don't think I would use it for the lights. It's for a main bath anyways.
In that case I would think it would work fine.

Might be a good idea to turn off the fan if you have a 2:00 am all-off schedule or something like that just as a backup... New bath fans are pretty quiet (especially the inline ones - I put one of those in my master bath, and all you can hear is a faint rush of air near the vents) so you might not hear it if its accidentally left on and rollback doesn't activate for some reason...
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post #1696 of 1704 Unread 07-25-2016, 09:00 AM
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  • The 4 Button Pico comes in some variations, but it seems the 4th (bottom) button is reserved for "All Off" in all cases, making at best a 3 scene + All Off. Still a pretty clean unit.
If I'm understanding this correctly, the 4th button HAS to turn off ALL lights programmed as part of the other 3 buttons. i.e I wanted to leave the bath fan on a rollback delay, even though I hit the off button for the lights.
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post #1697 of 1704 Unread 07-25-2016, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragonian View Post
Another year, another bathroom remodel. Except this time, there seems like there could be more options.

Does the "rollback" feature work well enough to use for a bathroom fan?
Are the Hybrid CL Keypads actually available? I think i saw one listed on ebay, but not sure if it was for real. This could open up more options.

I really just want 3 loads (shower, vanity, and fan).
I would prefer to have 2 switches on the wall, but would settle for 3.
I'd like to have one main switch for the vanity (for ease and guests), and either a keypad or 4 button pico.

It will be a full gut, so I'm thinking that I can route the dimmer for the shower hidden in the vanity.
If the rollback works, then I could also put the fan switch there too (otherwise i'll need the standalone countdown timer in an accessible place)
Rollback seems to work. I've got two closets that use it. You set it such that it times out and performs the rollback scene when none of the devices in the room have been used.

However, I have motion sensors in two bathrooms likely used for guests. One has a fan/light on a 8ANS switch (dumb electrician didn't wire it for them individually). The other fans I have on non-RA2 timer switches. I like those as they let me tailor the run-time of the fan. The sensors work great. I used 3M picture hanging strips (sorta like velcro) to find the idea location for them. The key being to angle them such that incidental traffic outside the bath isn't tripping them all the time.

I don't like to hide controls or make things un-obvious to people using a shared space like a bathroom. I generally try to avoid torturing guests by making them try to decipher tiny writing on buttons. So I'd lean toward making sure the 'primary reason' they use switches is on the paddle dimmer. As in, reach for lighting and hit the big thing, not tiny buttons.
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post #1698 of 1704 Unread 07-25-2016, 09:30 AM
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If I'm understanding this correctly, the 4th button HAS to turn off ALL lights programmed as part of the other 3 buttons. i.e I wanted to leave the bath fan on a rollback delay, even though I hit the off button for the lights.
Nope, the 4th button can be programmed as you like.

You could have something turned on using the others and not have it as part of the 4th button's off. Whether or not that'd make sense is another question. My single biggest irritation with the Pico and RA2 is not being able to use them as toggles. VERY, VERY ANNOYING! They're 'scene' controls. So anything you can set up in a scene can be tied to a Pico button (save for the raise/lower ones on a 3BRL). Scenes can be on, off, combinations of which, with varying delays or fade times.
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post #1699 of 1704 Unread 07-25-2016, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by wkearney99 View Post
I don't like to hide controls or make things un-obvious to people using a shared space like a bathroom. I generally try to avoid torturing guests by making them try to decipher tiny writing on buttons. So I'd lean toward making sure the 'primary reason' they use switches is on the paddle dimmer. As in, reach for lighting and hit the big thing, not tiny buttons.
Understood.. This bathroom isn't really that guest heavy other than once or so a year my mother visits. I was already planning on have the main light for the vanity being a normal toggle easy to hit. That way you can easily get light with no thought. The keypad would be mostly for me/wife to have a scene for the shower, and a nightlight option.

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My single biggest irritation with the Pico and RA2 is not being able to use them as toggles. VERY, VERY ANNOYING! They're 'scene' controls.
I think I would be ok with scenes.. the bath fan is the only one that would be nice for a toggle. Still trying to decide its better to integrate the bath fan, or go back to the old standby (MA-T51MN).
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post #1700 of 1704 Unread 07-25-2016, 01:56 PM
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Understood.. This bathroom isn't really that guest heavy other than once or so a year my mother visits. I was already planning on have the main light for the vanity being a normal toggle easy to hit. That way you can easily get light with no thought. The keypad would be mostly for me/wife to have a scene for the shower, and a nightlight option.

I think I would be ok with scenes.. the bath fan is the only one that would be nice for a toggle. Still trying to decide its better to integrate the bath fan, or go back to the old standby (MA-T51MN).
I used those exact timers for my fans. Rollback wasn't an option at all when I spec'd this setup. That and I actually like the way the time can be adjusted on the switch itself.

I get more use out of a 3BRL Pico. Top button is one light, middle is another, arrows up/down handle a third and bottom turns them all off. This way I can bring up the main cans (top), slide up the spots (rarely used), turn on an accent lamp (middle), or turn the whole batch off. Makes for a nice remote when done in Black with a single pedestal. The same could kind of be done with 4B but without raise/lower options. None of these eliminates the need for the actual controls being somewhere else nearby, it's just a handy additional (and low cost) add-on.

But I'd very much like to have all four buttons be usable for a toggle scene, without any off as the buttons would, y'now, toggle the lights in the scenes.
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post #1701 of 1704 Unread 07-25-2016, 01:58 PM
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Nope, the 4th button can be programmed as you like.....
My single biggest irritation with the Pico and RA2 is not being able to use them as toggles. VERY, VERY ANNOYING! They're 'scene' controls. So anything you can set up in a scene can be tied to a Pico button (save for the raise/lower ones on a 3BRL). Scenes can be on, off, combinations of which, with varying delays or fade times.
Should I even tell you Bill, there is a 4Button Toggle, but HomeWorks only.... The Regular Pico for RR2 has 4th Button "Off" as a default. But remember, as Bill explained, it's a "Scene" and a Scene could be any level but you're stuck with the "Off" Icon or do a custom engraved version.


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post #1702 of 1704 Unread 07-25-2016, 02:02 PM
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...there is a 4Button Toggle, but HomeWorks only....
Yes, well, there's also conditional programming and more with HWQS. But then all the switches are even more expensive.

It's disappointing how Lutron has basically done NOTHING for lighting since their founder's passing.
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post #1703 of 1704 Unread 07-25-2016, 02:07 PM
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Yes, well, there's also conditional programming and more with HWQS. But then all the switches are even more expensive.

It's disappointing how Lutron has basically done NOTHING for lighting since their founder's passing.
http://www.lutron.com/en-US/Products.../Overview.aspx

Being likened to RR2 for Commercial Lighting Control, Not really for Homeowners, but it's huge for our commercial side....

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I meant to chime in on the rollback / (countdown timer). I have in in my pantry and my kids rooms working flawlessly. Just remember if the switch/dimmer is sent any command during the rollback (even if it doesn't change state) hypothetically it should reset the rollback. Additionally I have rumors of recent RR2 versions not playing well with older windows versions. Specifically we had some 0-10v modules controlling some quartz heaters for outdoor heating. We built the control panel, tested and programmed it here, however the electrician installed and added some other RR2 devices. When he did, his older laptop did what it was supposed to do in terms of adding, programing transferring, however somewhere in the mix it made the LMJ module would only got to 5v at 100%(instead of 10v). Finally he was forced to do the Windows 10 update then everything fell in place and worked properly. I do not know what older windows version he had.

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