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post #1861 of 1881 Old 03-13-2017, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Foos-Man View Post
Thanks. I've done the training, but it's been awhile since I've messed with the system. I'm up to my ears in pool construction, so did not have much time on this, so your response is helpful. I will have switches in place for the wall keypad to control. Current wiring:
Flood light: switch in master bedroom
Patio light: 3-way switch, master bedroom and breakfast
I don't want to pull flood light wiring to the breakfast, thus the reason for the wall keypad.
The third switch is trickier, this is a new outdoor circuit for a light that is fed from the pool breaker. I am looking at putting a RR2 switch outdoors (yuck). I have a tabletop keypad (5 button) and decided to test the range from the backyard to the main repeater. The range does not seem to be an issue...actually, the range is great.

Any thoughts on the outdoor switch?




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I have my exterior and pool light switches in a proper weatherproof box and cover outside and they are going on year 2 at our new home with no issue. Because of distance to my main repeater I used all plastic boxes and cover, though I don't know if it was necessary. Also I'm about 1 mile from the ocean so the regular metal weatherproof stuff doesn't last as long here.

Additionally I use a VCRX and some relays as my Pool Control Panel. We have a spa that spills into a pool, and it controls the valves, heater, blower(bubbles), pool motor (high/low speed) I have it all programmed to work on a time clock, I have an interior keypad for handling all my pool stuff. My 7 button Keypad is marked:
  1. "Ext. Lights" [Toggle](RR2 Switch in exterior box / original switch location)
  2. "Pool Timer" [Scene](VCRX + Pentair variable speed control module): Turns valves to pool position and motor to slow speed, heater off, on/off on daily scheduled times)
  3. "Pool High" [Scene](VCRX + Pentair variable speed control module): Turns valves to pool position and motor to high speed)
  4. "Spa" [Scene](VCRX + Pentair variable speed control module): Turns valves to Spa position, pool lights on and motor to 3/4 speed, turns heater on)
  5. "Heater" [Toggle](VCRX.) Toggles heat in case I do not want it on with the Spa or I do want it in a pool mode)
  6. "Bubbles" [Toggle](VCRX) Toggles blower on/off as necessary, run through a 2pole relay so it only can come on, if the Spa mode is on)
  7. "Pool Off" [Scene](VCRX). This is more of an emergency stop. But it instantly shuts motor, heater, blower and pool lights off)
So by default this is always on "Pool Timer". We never (hopefully) need to use the "Pool Off". So say I want to go in the Spa, we hit spa and use it, then get out and through scene programmed "Pool Timer" it in a very specific order:

Spa:
  1. Turns Pool lights on, Pump to high speed, valves to spa, and heater on. (I don't always like the bubble so that's on it's own button to toggle)
Pool Timer:
  1. Shuts off the pool lights for instant visual verification.
  2. Instantly turns off the heater (if on)
  3. Lets the pump run high 5 minutes to cycle water through the heater
  4. After 5 minutes pump switches to low and valves are reset to "Pool".
  5. Another 5 minutes the pump stops. (Schedule starts again the following morning and my pool runs on low daily for about 12 hours).
Even though I think my heater has a flow detection and other safety's, because I use a low (variable) speed / long run time pump, anytime we press a button to low speed or in my case "Pool Timer" we are sure to send a heater off command. This is a safety concern when using a heater and low speed pump(& older pool equipment). Additionally I have a button for my pool cleaner near the equipment wired to VCRX input, so he can get the motor up to speed for his cleaning equipment and the addition of chemicals. If I forget the pool schedule returns the motor to low speed on the next timer schedule.

A lot of thought when into the specific scene programming of the Pool Timer & Spa features but are a good example of why the can be very helpful when you want something done very specifically. The control box wiring isn't for the faint of heart, but it was rather simple for me. And now with the connect bride app I can have my spa heated by the time I get home from work, or I can just tell Alexa to start the spa.

Getting you're head wrapped around "Scenes"isn't always easy, especially for someone new to this in lighting control. But I always tell people to record their actions, either mentally or on paper. If you have regular routines, you can turn them into simple single button presses and get the most out of this automation. Another way to think of scenes is as events. Say in a theater, you might have a movie scene and an intermission scene. Probably immediately you'll all have ideas on what those would mean to you. But it's the same with a lot of things you do. For me I have a Morning scene, that lights my way down the stairs (on as bright as I need), down stairs hallway and kitchen counter lights and to the mornings first emergency, coffee.... Because for some reason I can do all this but I cannot remember to set up my coffee the night before! As I leave the door on my way to work the away button shuts all that down but leaves my porch light on. Then the wife and kids do there things, and at 9a.m. I have a schedule turn off all the things the wife and kids left on in their rush to work & school. We also have a dog button, that leaves some lights on for our dogs on the occasion we might be away at night.
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post #1862 of 1881 Old 03-13-2017, 01:37 PM
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Paul is an excellent source of info and materials.

But it is possible using a 3rd party system to detect use of Pico buttons. It's then possible to use that kind of system to trigger other actions. Which could include toggling devices.
Good point. I have some Raspberry Pi code I wrote that logs into the main repeater and captures all commands and can issue responses. I had intended to use this to raise/lower Somfy curtains from the table top keypad, but decided to use SimpleControl on an ipad instead. I don't know why I didn't think of using a RPi to re-direct Pico remote commands. It adds another fail point, but otherwise should work.
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post #1863 of 1881 Old 03-13-2017, 01:53 PM
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It adds another fail point, but otherwise should work.
This is the challenge for any automation system. I'll give Lutron some credit, they've made the main repeaters rock-solid reliable and quick to reboot. I put devices like this on a UPS to avoid any interruptions. Using a Pi runs into the potential issues with microSD card corruption/reliability. That and basic linux housekeeping (like logs filling up the drive). Whatever you do, document it. That'll help weeks/months/years later when you (or someone else) is trying to figure it out.
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post #1864 of 1881 Old 03-13-2017, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by spiwrx View Post

Getting you're head wrapped around "Scenes"isn't always easy, especially for someone new to this in lighting control
Wow Paul. I am impressed with your pool setup. I'm getting excited to see what I can do with RR2. You bring up a good point on scenes...with 3 sets of lights outside it actually might be better to use scenes vs. multiple button presses. I could see: 1) scene for just the upper patio lights on 2) scene with all lights on, 3) all off...that's about it!

I'm having a Pentair system installed that has Screen Logic to control the Easytouch panel. I would really like to find a way to interface my Lutron keypad/ scenes to the Screen Logic controller. The Screen Logic interface can be used to turn the new outside light on and off via a relay in the panel. I can go from the keypad -> RasPi -> Screen logic. I haven't found much on Screen Logic interfacing...might have to break out wireshark.
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post #1865 of 1881 Old 03-13-2017, 02:06 PM
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This is the challenge for any automation system. I'll give Lutron some credit, they've made the main repeaters rock-solid reliable and quick to reboot. I put devices like this on a UPS to avoid any interruptions. Using a Pi runs into the potential issues with microSD card corruption/reliability. That and basic linux housekeeping (like logs filling up the drive). Whatever you do, document it. That'll help weeks/months/years later when you (or someone else) is trying to figure it out.
I am blown away with how rock solid my Lutron RR2 is. I also have it on a UPS along with a closet full of stuff including multiple RPI's. I definitely cannot remember 2 weeks later what I've done, so I keep good notes in ascii files. I keep the Pi backed up on DropBox. RPI's are also super reliable. I use a Pi as a home theater HUB for a simplecontrol remote (ipad). It handles translation from IP commands to 2 RS-232 ports for curtains and projector. I'm almost done having it emulate Belkin WeMo devices, so I can interface to my Alexa and control RR2 devices without the bridge as well as macros on a Universal Remote controller. It's starting to get a little over complicated
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post #1866 of 1881 Old 03-13-2017, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Foos-Man View Post
I am blown away with how rock solid my Lutron RR2 is. I also have it on a UPS along with a closet full of stuff including multiple RPI's. I definitely cannot remember 2 weeks later what I've done, so I keep good notes in ascii files. I keep the Pi backed up on DropBox. RPI's are also super reliable. I use a Pi as a home theater HUB for a simplecontrol remote (ipad). It handles translation from IP commands to 2 RS-232 ports for curtains and projector. I'm almost done having it emulate Belkin WeMo devices, so I can interface to my Alexa and control RR2 devices without the bridge as well as macros on a Universal Remote controller. It's starting to get a little over complicated
I'm a big fan of the PI but only used it for Retro-Gaming and KODI/PLEX stuff. Real interested to know what you are running on the PI to to interface with RR2? Probably beyond want I need but I'm interested.

I was looking at the pentair control, but the cost and functionality were both way more than I wanted and I just need to run my pump on a schedule and turn on my SPA. A VCRX, Keypad and 1 additional Dimmer for the lights, was way less than the Pentair controls. I was hoping the pump would work on contact closure or 0-10v but I wasn't that lucky I had to buy their little control module for around $100 to get multiple speeds.

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post #1867 of 1881 Old 03-13-2017, 05:00 PM
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I'm a big fan of the PI but only used it for Retro-Gaming and KODI/PLEX stuff. Real interested to know what you are running on the PI to to interface with RR2? Probably beyond want I need but I'm interested.

I was looking at the pentair control, but the cost and functionality were both way more than I wanted and I just need to run my pump on a schedule and turn on my SPA. A VCRX, Keypad and 1 additional Dimmer for the lights, was way less than the Pentair controls. I was hoping the pump would work on contact closure or 0-10v but I wasn't that lucky I had to buy their little control module for around $100 to get multiple speeds.

Paul, take a look at the Autelis Pentair pool controller. Much better than Pentair's and less expensive too.
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post #1868 of 1881 Old 03-14-2017, 06:36 AM
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I'm a big fan of the PI but only used it for Retro-Gaming and KODI/PLEX stuff. Real interested to know what you are running on the PI to to interface with RR2? Probably beyond want I need but I'm interested.
Let me dust off the code and I'll post something...I might need a week or two. Simply sending RR2 commands is easy as there are scripting languages that handle the telnet connection, etc quite nicely. I have an example of this that I tested for interfacing with Alexa. If you are trying to monitor commands and respond, ex: listen for a key press and do something then it's a bit trickier. Most of lines of code I wrote deals with ensuring the connection is active...handling cases where the main repeater goes down, internet connection goes down, etc.
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post #1869 of 1881 Old 03-15-2017, 06:42 AM
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Let me dust off the code and I'll post something...I might need a week or two. Simply sending RR2 commands is easy as there are scripting languages that handle the telnet connection,
Here are the Python scripts that I wrote which runs on my RPi. "radiora2.txt" (change to radiora2.py) is a class, so you would create an object in another main script (see applianceModule.txt). Please excuse my coding! The applianceModule.py is called with a crontab job on the RPi to toggle an appliance module (I'm not very creative with my naming conventions). It's a simple example but gives a good idea on how to interface to the main repeater just using telnet.

Thanks,
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post #1870 of 1881 Old 03-15-2017, 09:47 PM
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Paul,

Great write up on your pool setup. Would you be willing to share a picture or two of the relay panel you built?

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post #1871 of 1881 Old 03-17-2017, 10:32 AM
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Paul,

Great write up on your pool setup. Would you be willing to share a picture or two of the relay panel you built?
Not sure if I shared them before. The first one is my pool panel, not particularly proud of the mess but I was mid-troubleshooting and installing the Pentair adapter when I took the shot. The pictures that follow are some other RR2 and Lutron integrated heater control panels we build for customers. The second pic controls 3 zones of 2x 6000watt heaters each for a total of 36,000watts!! (150amps just for heaters!) of exterior patio heaters. The third is a more common build for about 10,000watts, and controlled with a simple DIVA dimmer. For the heater control panels we prefer the RR2 control as we can set up some timers but we can also do it with simple PICO control without a full system. The biggest draw is we can use a simple keypad or app to control the heaters and the controls provided by the manufacturer are normally more expensive and have a pretty old school infinity type knob control which gets quite large when we have 3 zones. We can keep it in a single keypad or pico depending on the button requirements...

The Pentair varispeed pump and controller were an afterthought and the controller requires some DC power, It happen to be within the same spec as the VCRX power supply, so I just tapped off that. So far so good..... I could provide a schematic but despite the looks the theory is pretty simple: the VCRX outputs controlling 3small relays (heat/blower/valve) and 1 main large relay for the pump.[Edit, to clarify, the large relay powers both the pump and heater main power, the small heater relay emulates the power/selector switch of my particular heater. So power to the heater is applied anytime the pump is on, but it doesn't come "on" until the second relay or unit switch is activated] The transformer was sized for the 2 valves to operate simultaneously and made sure all the relays operate on the same voltage (24vac) as the VCRX can only control ow voltage. The Pentair controller inputs are just attached to the corresponding relay coil or output for what ever its programmed to. So say when I hit the spa button the corresponding valve position is triggered and tapped to the input of the Pentair adapter to give me my desired pump speed for "Spa". When it's rest to it's normal run mode "Pool Timer" the valve switches back and triggers the low speed. Additionally, I have a switch on the outside of the enclosure wired to the VCRX inputs to allow pool cleaner the ability to bring the pump to high speed for cleaning and chemical distribution. I was going to just use an even more accessible PICO for exterior operation, but I was worried about having a Pico outside and he has to access the pool equipment to clean my basket and filters any way.




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post #1872 of 1881 Old 03-17-2017, 07:45 PM
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Nice job, I like it. I'm putting together a few enclosures for my pool and have some questions. My electrician has decided he only uses 8x8x6 PVC enclosures. I ran my conduit assuming a 12x12x6 Cantex PVC enclosure with six 3/4" conduits coming up from the bottom...so I'm going to install a 12x12x6 box myself. What is the best way to bring PVC conduit into the box? Did you use a male adapter to MPT with a locknut? I also need to attach a transformer and a RR2 switch to the enclosure. Are your screws embedded in the PVC or did you use a nut on the back of the box?


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post #1873 of 1881 Old 03-18-2017, 07:20 AM
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Foos-Man,
We use PVC boxes similar to Spiwrkx but that are a little different as they have "cam locks" instead of screws to hold the O'ringed cover on. Just a little easier to repetitively remove the covers without wearing out the threads. I can't remember their brand name...I'll look in the shop and post back.

We use weathertight PVC male adapters, usually on the bottom, sometimes on the sides, that have O'rings on them as well. We also just for kicks throw a dab of silicone on the inside of the box before we put the nuts on. Unfortunately HomeDepot doesn't sell these weathertight fastners so you might have to go to a real electrical supply place that has them in droves.

To mount the boxes, some have ears on the outside of the box. Those are nice so there are no protrusions thru the interior. For those that don't we drill thru the box and put silicone on the fastener. We also put a dam of silicone on the top of the exterior of the box where the box meets the back plate to divert all water over the sides and not behind the box. For the jobs that require a backplate, we attach the PVC to the backplate via the moulded nuts on the back of the PVC box, and then secure the backplate / box to the structure. That way, no protrusions into the box.

To mount stuff like a transformer in the box, we make a wood backplate that fits inside of the box, and then mount the transformer to that so we have the ability to put "random" screws in (to fit the footprint of the transformer). Again, that way, no protrusions into the PVC.
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post #1874 of 1881 Old 03-18-2017, 05:44 PM
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Getting you're head wrapped around "Scenes" isn't always easy, especially for someone new to this in lighting control. But I always tell people to record their actions, either mentally or on paper. If you have regular routines, you can turn them into simple single button presses and get the most out of this automation. Another way to think of scenes is as events. Say in a theater, you might have a movie scene and an intermission scene. Probably immediately you'll all have ideas on what those would mean to you. But it's the same with a lot of things you do. For me I have a Morning scene, that lights my way down the stairs (on as bright as I need), down stairs hallway and kitchen counter lights and to the mornings first emergency, coffee.... Because for some reason I can do all this but I cannot remember to set up my coffee the night before! As I leave the door on my way to work the away button shuts all that down but leaves my porch light on. Then the wife and kids do there things, and at 9a.m. I have a schedule turn off all the things the wife and kids left on in their rush to work & school. We also have a dog button, that leaves some lights on for our dogs on the occasion we might be away at night.
I use HS3 to detect when an 'Area Off' button is tapped in the home office. It drops the lights in that room. and then if it's after 10pm, but before sunrise, it brings up some path-oriented lighting in other areas, with a delay added to turn them back off again after a few minutes.

Where things get more complicated is deciding whether to set some of the lights to a specific dim level OR detect that they're already lit and leave them alone. HS3's event logic editor can be a little limited, necessitating chaining events together instead of having multiple nested conditionals.
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post #1875 of 1881 Old 03-20-2017, 08:39 AM
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Nice job, I like it. I'm putting together a few enclosures for my pool and have some questions. My electrician has decided he only uses 8x8x6 PVC enclosures. I ran my conduit assuming a 12x12x6 Cantex PVC enclosure with six 3/4" conduits coming up from the bottom...so I'm going to install a 12x12x6 box myself. What is the best way to bring PVC conduit into the box? Did you use a male adapter to MPT with a locknut? I also need to attach a transformer and a RR2 switch to the enclosure. Are your screws embedded in the PVC or did you use a nut on the back of the box?


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This is just a 12x12x4 Carlon box, they just use a stainless self threading screw. It does suck for re-work, but if you're careful not to strip and chase threads it's fine. I've been in and out of this one a handful of times and it's still fine. Some of the nicer and a lot more expensive PVC boxes have those features like cam locks, hinged covers or brass threaded inserts. It's important to note you want a NEMA 4 rating or better on these type of enclosure for good weather/water protection. ( Nema 4X = IP66 (international standard), but I think there are more options in IP standards that you could get away with IP54 or maybe less, I'm only mentioning it because there are some really nice IP boxes you can find on the internet, note some of the IP boxes may not have a USA listing like UL. UR, or ETL and may not be acceptable by an inspector)

I just used the regular PVC male fittings and lock nuts but I added some O-rings like the ones that come with the seal tight(flexible PVC) connectors. Might have been overkill but I was concerned with the keeping the VCRX as dry as possible. Some of the wiring to the valves and control cable from the pump are exterior rated and just come through a strain relief cable gland and back filled w/ silicone. I also like to use the silicone grease("magic lube") on the o-rings and especially the box cover o-ring.

The box is supported on the original steel posts driven into the ground with some framing "U" channel as additional support.

Like SMOOTHTLK, we also have back plate for mounting. Though I prefer steel or aluminum over the wood. Some now also come with plastic back plates. You need to be careful ordering some of these plastic enclosures as you may have to order back plates, back plate mounting hardware all separately depending on the manufacturer.

So far so good, the box is always dry and going on almost 3 years of operation.

I hadn't really checked since I installed it, but happen to get my power bill this weekend and says we're saving 23% over last year and that's the only thing we changed. The pump now runs at about 12hours at low speed/power (vs. the 8hrs, the old pump was running inefficiently) We had some utility incentives which brought the ROI of my pump to about 8 months.

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post #1876 of 1881 Old 03-20-2017, 09:08 AM
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This is just a 12x12x4 Carlon box, they just use a stainless seld threading screw. It does suck for re-work, but if you're careful not to strip and chase threads it's fine. I've been in and out of this one a handful of times and it's still fine. Some of the nicer and a lot more expensive PVC boxes have those features like cam locks, hinged covers or brass threaded inserts.

I just used the regular PVC male fittings and lock nuts but I added some O-rings like the ones that come with the seal tight(flexible PVC) connectors. Might have been overkill but I was concerned with the keeping the VCRX as dry as possible. Some of the wiring to the valves and control cable from the pump are exterior rated and just come through a strain relief cable gland and back filled w/ silicone. I also like to use the silicone grease("magic lube") on the o-rings and especially the box cover o-ring.

The box is supported on the original steel posts driven into the ground with some framing "U" channel as additional support.

Like SMOOTHTLK, we also have back plate for mounting. Though I prefer steel or aluminum over the wood. Some now also come with plastic back plates. You need to be careful ordering some of these plastic enclosures as you may have to order back plates, back plate mounting hardware all separately depending on the manufacturer.

So far so good, the box is always dry and going on almost 3 years of operation.

I hadn't really checked since I installed it, but happen to get my power bill this weekend and says we're saving 23% over last year and that's the only thing we changed. The pump now runs at about 12hours at low speed/power (vs. the 8hrs, the old pump was running inefficiently) We had some utility incentives which brought the ROI of my pump to about 8 months.
Thanks. This helps a lot. I'm planning to use a box with tabs so I can directly mount it to the house. Cantex makes several. I also need to drive a single sprinkler valve for the pool, as a semi-auto fill feature. I like your choice of transformers better as it includes mounting tabs. I just picked up a Rainbird transformer used in their outdoor controllers, but don't see an easy way to attach this to the box.
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post #1877 of 1881 Old 03-20-2017, 09:14 AM
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Thanks. This helps a lot. I'm planning to use a box with tabs so I can directly mount it to the house. Cantex makes several. I also need to drive a single sprinkler valve for the pool, as a semi-auto fill feature. I like your choice of transformers better as it includes mounting tabs. I just picked up a Rainbird transformer used in their outdoor controllers, but don't see an easy way to attach this to the box.
Some times they come with a 90deg "L" bracket for mounting by that threaded neck (1/2" NPT). Or you can make one. If you are building a box you may want a mounted outlet internally to plug in the main repeater and other stuff, you can use a standard electrical box with KO's (knock-outs) and mount it off of one of those to kill two birds. could also be another possible use for the back-plate mentioned above, though you'll want to drill another hole an grommet to run the wiring back to through to the front. Don't forget to put a fuse on that transformer if not included. It should be there by code, but those small transformers are easy to kill with a small short.

Paul W.
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post #1878 of 1881 Old 03-20-2017, 09:38 AM
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The Connect-BDG2 is supposed to ship in April, but we all know how that went last time. So I'm not promising anything. I still don't have a quote but rumored to be the same price, and I will go ahead and assume it will eventually replace the current bridge as it's supposed to be compatible with Homekit and Alexa/Echo/Dot (do we have a unified name for this yet?)

I will offer the same pre-sale / initial shipment discount. So I'll post up when I have a written confirmed price (hopefully this week) Some of you have already contacted me, but I'll just post up a link when I get the details ironed out.

No rumors yet whether the Google device (Google Home?) will ever be included.

Homekit wasn't immediately clear to me, but it does require one of the later Apple TV units. The requirements below are for Caseta, but I would assume the connectivity requirement for the RR2 version in terms of Apple equipment would be the at least the same or similar:

Apple Requirements:
An iPhone®, iPad®, or iPod® touch with iOS 8.3 or later is required for HomeKit. You can check your iOS version in Settings > General > About > Version.
For remote access you’ll need to have a third generation or later Apple TV with software version 7.0 or later in your home. Follow the steps here to make sure you have a supported Apple TV: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT200008.
Remote access through Apple TV may require you to log out of iCloud® and log back in on your Apple TV.
Tip: Siri® will be more responsive if you set the “Sleep After” setting to “Never” in Settings >
If you have any other issues setting up Apple TV, please contact Apple Customer Support.
IOS 9.0 required for shades.

Paul W.
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post #1879 of 1881 Old 03-22-2017, 05:55 AM
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I uploaded a few Raspberry Pi Lutron RR2 utilities in case anyone is interested. I still need to clean up some other code to publish which is a client that manages a telnet connection with the main repeater, listens and can issue commands. I'm putting all the code here:
https://github.com/Foosman/RPI-Lutron-RR2

1) xml_parse
This is written in 'C', my preferred language. Sorry, I'm old school! It is probably 3 lines in Java/etc
This performs a HTTP GET request to the main repeater and parses the result to help you figure out the integration ID of your lights. It is pretty basic and focuses on lights. Here is an example output:

Successful connection to Lutron repeater
Size of GET request response: 48185
Light 0: Output Name="Family Rm: fan light kit" IntegrationID="27"
Light 1: Output Name="Hallway: master/laundy" IntegrationID="24"
Light 2: Output Name="Front door: chandelier" IntegrationID="22"
Light 3: Output Name="Master bed: fan light kit" IntegrationID="20"
Light 4: Output Name="Front porch: recessed" IntegrationID="18"
Light 5: Output Name="Outside garage: sconce" IntegrationID="13"
Light 6: Output Name="Kitchen: sink" IntegrationID="26"
Light 7: Output Name="Kitchen: main" IntegrationID="3"
Light 8: Output Name="Game Rm: fan light kit" IntegrationID="4"
Light 9: Output Name="Upstairs Hallway" IntegrationID="12"

2) telnet_script
This is a 21 line "expect" script. I stumbled across "expect" recently which no decent programmer would admit to using but it is really simple and gets the job done. This will telnet into your main repeater and fire off a command. This is useful if you have other code that you want to interface with RR2 to just turn a light on or off. The README has some examples of turning a light on and off, but here is how I would turn off my Famly Rm: fan light kit which has integration ID 27:
telnet_script 192.168.0.115 lutron integration "#OUTPUT,27,1,0"
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post #1880 of 1881 Old 03-23-2017, 10:54 AM
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Not sure if you all remember the fiasco of the First Connect Bridge's delivery date that kept getting pushed back, so don't shoot the messenger...

Accepting pre-orders now, supposedly to begin shipping next month. I'm not going to set a cut-off date until I get an actual ship date but if you would like to pre-order here you are. If you haven't used the new website yet you need to login in first the link will take you to the product page if you have auto-login or it will prompt you to. If you have trouble login and search "connect2" on our page. If you don't already have a login w/ permissions for RR2 email me direct paul(at)hankselectric(dot)net, I need to set you up before you will be able to find and/or order this. Same pre-sale price as last time, add to cart and pricing will discount. If you are adding anything just email me your list. Adding at least a single dimmer or switch should get you to free shipping....

Paul W.
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post #1881 of 1881 Old Today, 09:19 PM
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Inclusive software differences

Hello,

I recently completed the Lutron RadioRA2 training and received access to the essentials software. I would like to take a look at the inclusive software, but there isn't any training scheduled for my area (I'd take it if I could). If anyone has a suggestion on how to take a look at a recent copy of inclusive I'd appreciate it.

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