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post #1 of 144 Old 10-02-2009, 06:51 AM - Thread Starter
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This thread is a progress of my newly built (actually still being built) home. After years of researching, i finally was able to design and build a custom house with all the toys i wanted in it (on a budget of course).

I have a dedicated theater room in the basement with all the sound proofing goodies inside (see my thread in the theater construction forum). In regards to home automation, I went with an HAI Omni Pro 2 controller for alarm and automation duties. HVAC control, music, lighting, security, etc. It was affordable and did what I needed it to, so im happy about that. I like their touchscreens (if i plan on ever going that route.... and yes, i did prewire for them), but for the time being I'm going to be controlling everything from my iphone/ipod touch.

Lighting control is a Lutron Homeworks 4 system with keypads everywhere and one a handful of switches (bathrooms, closets, etc.). I initially was going to go with a Homeworks 8 system, but the added cost really didn't offer me anything more that the 4 could do. Instead of having the remote dimming modules, I placed the wallbox power modules in the electrical closet next to the Lutron control panel and have all homerun wiring to the basement. The system is designed to have 8 wallbox power modules to control all the home lighting and the closets/baths will have the maestro switches tied in. SeeTouch keypads are wired throughout the house so no more 10 switch banks on the walls.

Music control is going to be a Russound MCA-C5 controller with keypads in different locations. 6 zones and about 4 sources I will be going with in my home. Doorbell muting, etc. is going to be a nice feature.

The HAI panel with control everything and will be accessed via the iphone. It will tie in the lutron lighting (ie. turn on all the exterior lights when the alarm is triggered), music control, etc. via their customizable touchscreens (future idea for me).

Structured wiring is not as crazy as i've done in the past, but still quite extensive. Ethernet to all rooms, phone, and 2 caox. 1 coax for cable, 1 for camera. 3 structured wiring panels to house everything in, plus 1 panel for alarm and 1 for lutron.

Security has been prewired for 4 exterior cameras and will be plugged into a dvr. Alarm, motion, sensors, etc. in all locations.

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post #2 of 144 Old 10-02-2009, 06:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Structured wiring panel eye-candy!!!




Below are access loops i made so i can pull wires in the future from panel to panel.



Openings for power to plug into nearby outlets as well as battery backup plug-in.



Lutron Homeworks 4 panel



Other side of electrical closet. Note that I have not yet mounted the 8 wallbox power module boxes. They will be housed directly above the lutron panel.



note too that i need to install 2 more subpanels. 1 for lighting, and 1 for theater/music.

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post #3 of 144 Old 10-02-2009, 06:56 AM - Thread Starter
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rough-in bracket for russound keypad (on top) and lutron keypad (on bottom).


the equipment closet for ht and music control is located under the stairs with a door access. here is a pic of it in its raw state.



and finally, this is the view of the closet from my office. the opening will also house my 2 channel music stuff and will all be completely hidden under the stairs.

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post #4 of 144 Old 10-03-2009, 05:37 AM
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Anthony,

Great stuff! Keep us posted as things continue to progress and thanks for sharing.
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post #5 of 144 Old 10-04-2009, 07:07 AM
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Awesome!

I like how the Lutron HW KP is centered below the Russound KP. Nice touch.

Any conduit, basement/crawl -> attic? wiring closet -> display/projector? Makes it easier to 'upgrade' hdmi.

Print the pic showing the wiring closet door opening, and hand it to the guy who is installing/constructing the door. He'll be more careful with his nailer.

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post #6 of 144 Old 10-04-2009, 05:23 PM - Thread Starter
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thanks! yes, i did run a conduit from the attic to the electrical closet for future runs. no conduit from pj to equipment closet. there would have been too many 90 degree bends that it would have been near impossible to fish anything later on. i did however run 2 hmi cables and a component from pj to equip. closet. i just drywalled the theater this weekend to realize i forgot to run cat3 from the pj to equip. closet for ir control. so, i fished some in (good thing the other side of the theater was not drywalled yet), and i did a quick patch.

good idea about the wiring behind the door. don't want any screws going into the wiring!

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post #7 of 144 Old 10-05-2009, 03:32 AM
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Did you consider the ELK M1 Gold when you chose the HAI OP3? If so, what made you go with one over the other? I know this is sometimes a touchy subject but I'm always interested in hearing opinions on it. Construction on our new home (designed it ourselves) should start within the month so I really need to make a decision on which one I'm going to go with!

I look forward to seeing your progress with this!
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post #8 of 144 Old 10-05-2009, 08:52 AM
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You might want to consider running a couple cat6 cables to the projector, using the catx you just ran as a pull cord.

HDMI 1.4 specs released last April. Cat6 should provide some futureproofing - you'll likely be able to use a pair of cat6 in place of HDM 1.4 (and/or 1.5, 1.6, 2.14...), eventually, but the component isn't a bad fallback.

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post #9 of 144 Old 10-06-2009, 07:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgull View Post

Did you consider the ELK M1 Gold when you chose the HAI OP3? If so, what made you go with one over the other? I know this is sometimes a touchy subject but I'm always interested in hearing opinions on it. Construction on our new home (designed it ourselves) should start within the month so I really need to make a decision on which one I'm going to go with!

I look forward to seeing your progress with this!

to be honest, i think both brands are very capable and possible a toss up. i went with a dealer in the area whom i trust who happens to be an HAI 5 star integrator and had him do the entire thing, all the way to programming. i ran all the wiring, etc. myself. the nice thing about HAI is that they have new touchscreens which are fairly reasonably priced which can be customized the way you please using automation studio. you can make it look just like a crestron panel and the program is super easy to use. HAI website has webinars of how to use the program and any beginner can do it. not sure if elk has the same thing or not, but HAI seems to have a lot of integration partners and i haven't read of any bad reviews anywhere on their automation panels so it was a logical choice for me. the price really was the main determining factor as i spent all my money on the lutron homeworks setup.

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post #10 of 144 Old 10-06-2009, 07:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neurorad View Post

You might want to consider running a couple cat6 cables to the projector, using the catx you just ran as a pull cord.

HDMI 1.4 specs released last April. Cat6 should provide some futureproofing - you'll likely be able to use a pair of cat6 in place of HDM 1.4 (and/or 1.5, 1.6, 2.14...), eventually, but the component isn't a bad fallback.

thanks for the tip. unfortunately i already drywalled the second layer with green glue in between and "fishing" the wires had me cut a few holes in the first layer which i later caulked. i did get the blue jeans top of the line hdmi cables which are fully 1.3 certified so we'll see what happens in the future. if i need to run some new lines, i guess i could just sell the house and start all over again!!

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post #11 of 144 Old 10-07-2009, 07:02 AM
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A lot easier to cut and repair drywall now, during construction, than in 7 years.

However, it's pretty unlikely that it's a 'bad' cable (I bought an hdmi cable from Blue Jeans), the connectors will probably never get damaged, you probably won't ever put a nail or screw through the cable (keep your nails and screws shorter than the depth of the DD), and new hdmi standards will likely be backwards compatible.

HDMI will always suck, until it can be 'field terminated'.

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post #12 of 144 Old 10-07-2009, 03:49 PM - Thread Starter
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structured panels all drywalled



lutron panel with wallbox power module boxes

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post #13 of 144 Old 10-09-2009, 07:39 AM
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Those structured panels look great! I wish I had those in my house.

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post #14 of 144 Old 10-09-2009, 08:31 AM
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Anthony I saw your construction build thread, and glad that you made this one as well! Looking forward to both!
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post #15 of 144 Old 10-10-2009, 03:21 PM - Thread Starter
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im looking for some feedback on my theater control. right now, i have it wired for 2 keypads. 1 keypad would have the scenes on it (ie. movie, sports, etc.) and the other will have the actual light control. im now wanting to be able to control the lights through rf from a urc remote. i know that lutron has rf light switches that go hand in hand with urc remotes, but since i only have a double gang wallbox in the theater and don't want to have multiple switches on the wall, what are my options for rf light control? the 4 lighting loads are all controlled by the wallbox power module. would the cheapest solution be getting the wireless module tied into the processor?

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post #16 of 144 Old 10-23-2009, 04:45 AM - Thread Starter
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can anyone give me some suggestions on how to accomplish the wireless light dilemma?

thanks.

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post #17 of 144 Old 10-23-2009, 11:02 AM
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This HomeWorks question is probably best answered by your regional Lutron HW rep, the salesman, or the installer. You want 2 keypads next to each other - correct? Is there a single 10-button keypad that could be used instead, with an IR receiver in the other gang?

It seems your question is - 'how can I control the lights with a remote?'

I think the URC master controller MSC-400 can be linked with the HW4 P5 processor using serial control. So, the MSC-400 receives a command from the remote control, and the message is transferred to the processor via 232.

There are many other units, besides the MSC-400, that can convert IR to serial, at a cheaper price (MSRP $800). The MSC-400 would serve to control other AV equipment in the theater as well, via RS232. It would take some skill to implement this yourself, a skill that will take time to learn. I think Xantech makes a cheap IR to 232 converter (Edit - Xantech IRS232A).

This is coming from someone who has never done this stuff, so make sure you do your homework, or consult a pro.

Edit - I've read that Celadon also make an IR-232 converter

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post #18 of 144 Old 10-26-2009, 10:10 AM
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Nice cable job. Where did yo get your panels?
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post #19 of 144 Old 10-26-2009, 05:58 PM - Thread Starter
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believe it or not, they were on clearance at a local home depot with disocunted pricing and included the hinged cover. they ended up costing me just slightly cheaper than if i would have gotten them from an electrical supplier. they can be had much cheaper on ebay though. i was strapped for time and just went ahead and paid a bit more and avoiding shipping, duties, etc.

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post #20 of 144 Old 11-11-2009, 12:15 PM
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I use the Insteon stuff for my URC RF to IR controlled lights.

Let me know if you want more detail about it.

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post #21 of 144 Old 11-11-2009, 06:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I use the Insteon stuff for my URC RF to IR controlled lights.

Let me know if you want more detail about it.

thanks for the suggestion jack. unfortunately the room has been wired to use the lutron homeworks system so it would not be physically possible to hookup insteon switches to it. all the lighting loads go into the electrical closet and only the lutron lv cable is located in the switch position in my ht. i will have to speak to my dealer and see if there is a wireless module available that will allow me to use rf control of the lights.



i picked up the wallbox power modules yesterday and had them wired in today. can't test them yet as the subpanel for the lighting loads was not in stock at the local electrical supply shop, but i should have everything wired in by next week. all the wires have been terminated into the panel and the room finally looks clean. once i get the 2 subpanels (1 for lights, 1 for HT), i will post some pics of the completed wiring. things are starting to take shape and i will be ordering all my keypads with engravings in the next couple weeks so that should be fun.

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post #22 of 144 Old 12-29-2009, 08:21 PM - Thread Starter
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pics of the wallbox power modules



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post #23 of 144 Old 12-29-2009, 08:23 PM - Thread Starter
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these things are a breeze to wire. i had my electrician wire me the subpanels and i hooked up the modules. took me less than 2 hrs to do all of them. pics to follow.

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post #24 of 144 Old 01-01-2010, 12:42 PM
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I was wondering why you are using Lutron for lighting over UPB switches, which will integrate right into HAI Omni Pro controller. I am planning to go the UPB route so I am curious to know your reasoning to go with Lutron. The UPB Dimmers work well with regular incandescents as well as the newer LED bulbs. I also like the programming interface to create scenes, light timings etc.

BTW the HAI H@me app for iPhone seems pretty cool (integrates lighting, security, HVAC, whole house audio into a single app).
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post #25 of 144 Old 01-01-2010, 08:28 PM - Thread Starter
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i researched heavily into all lighting alternatives. upb, which can be very reliable in certain systems, also have their share of issues. mailnly interference, etc. from powerline. i searched and found many people on coccoon tech and worthington forums which had many complaints of upb. now i also know of many who have 100% reliable systems. i didn't want to take a chance so i went with lutron because i know it is 100% reliable and rock solid regardless. yes, it is far more expensive but it is known for quality and reliablilty. alc is also very similar to upb, but again, i chose to go lutron homeworks for 100% reliability all the time. the same is true of vantage, crestron and litetouch.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony A. View Post

i researched heavily into all lighting alternatives. upb, which can be very reliable in certain systems, also have their share of issues. mailnly interference, etc. from powerline. i searched and found many people on coccoon tech and worthington forums which had many complaints of upb. now i also know of many who have 100% reliable systems. i didn't want to take a chance so i went with lutron because i know it is 100% reliable and rock solid regardless. yes, it is far more expensive but it is known for quality and reliablilty. alc is also very similar to upb, but again, i chose to go lutron homeworks for 100% reliability all the time. the same is true of vantage, crestron and litetouch.

Can these reliability problems be resolved with any product? I know HAI recommends a phase coupler for every installation. Anybody have any experience or success with installing a phase coupler?
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post #27 of 144 Old 01-02-2010, 07:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony A. View Post

im looking for some feedback on my theater control. right now, i have it wired for 2 keypads. 1 keypad would have the scenes on it (ie. movie, sports, etc.) and the other will have the actual light control. im now wanting to be able to control the lights through rf from a urc remote. i know that lutron has rf light switches that go hand in hand with urc remotes, but since i only have a double gang wallbox in the theater and don't want to have multiple switches on the wall, what are my options for rf light control? the 4 lighting loads are all controlled by the wallbox power module. would the cheapest solution be getting the wireless module tied into the processor?

Have you looked at getting the IR keypad? It has 5 buttons and takes IR signals directly. It can be either in your theater or if you don't have LOS, put it in the equipment room with a repeater from your URC remote.

The other option might be a Grafik Eye. They look pretty cool in the theater environment and look to the system just like a WPM. You would have to run your HV to it though. Or you could just use one in place of the WPM (prices are similar) and run an IR blaster to it.

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post #28 of 144 Old 01-02-2010, 01:42 PM - Thread Starter
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hmmm, i didn't think of the grafik eye with an ir blaster in the mechanical closet. that may be a good idea, although i think my dealer already ordered the last wpm that i needed. since all the HV loads go to the closet, i am unable to place the GE in the theater itself. i did look at the ir keypad as well initially, but i already ordered the keypads so i don't want to have to re-order them again. my dealer still hasn't confirmed if there is an rf module or not that the processor can control, but i was sure that i remember reading about it somewhere.

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post #29 of 144 Old 01-03-2010, 06:34 AM
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Not sure I understand where RF comes into the pic.

You have a remote control? If not, which one do you want to use?

The processor accepts RS232 commands, doesn't it? You need to control the processor, with a remote control, so you need something that converts IR to 232 - Celadon, Xantech, URC all have this device, links above. I bet Celadon is the cheapest, but it's up to the pro who will be programming the remote, I think.

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post #30 of 144 Old 01-03-2010, 02:52 PM - Thread Starter
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i haven't decided completely on which remote, but lets assume i will be using a urc rf remote with mrf 260 base station. i thought i needed to have the lutron processor with an rf module to support rf controls via an rf capable remote. yes, the processor does accept rs232 commands but the problem is that i never ran an ir cable (or cat5, etc.) from the theater room to the equipment closet where the lighting modules reside. is it even possible to "learn" rf commands with a urc remote the same way you can "learn" ir?

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