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post #181 of 389 Old 04-23-2011, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A&M 350Z View Post

wait, is 5 off or on. Your posts were different

My bad. use the last one.

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post #182 of 389 Old 04-23-2011, 02:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Ill give it a quick try
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post #183 of 389 Old 04-23-2011, 02:43 PM - Thread Starter
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ARGGH!! Not working. Very frustrating. I really appreciate your help very much. Ill keep messing around. I see why these systems can get costly to install.
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post #184 of 389 Old 04-23-2011, 02:44 PM
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Is one wire of the ribbon cable a different color that the rest and why they call the ribbon "striped"?
If so with the serial adapter in front of you with any writing on it right side up, the stripe goes up/top.

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post #185 of 389 Old 04-23-2011, 02:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Got it. Yes one wire is stripped, I will make sure it is on top
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post #186 of 389 Old 04-23-2011, 02:48 PM
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I'm now curious about the program you sent me. It clearly shows pool controls on port C. It also clearly shows nothing on port D (port D open)

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post #187 of 389 Old 04-23-2011, 02:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, I don't understand either. The original owner says it is the most recent program. Unless someone reprogrammed it and he didn't remember or get that version.
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post #188 of 389 Old 04-23-2011, 02:58 PM
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I'm also curious about that serial adapter that you have and if it was the one that was original to the working system. Why was it set to 2400 baud???
If all that we've done today does not do it, I would look into sending it back to Jandy for testing and/or replacement cause homeboy, we are there.

I still want a picture of the adapter hooked up with the cover off so I can varify.

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post #189 of 389 Old 04-23-2011, 03:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah it is original to the system and was working. I will grab some photos
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post #190 of 389 Old 04-23-2011, 03:10 PM
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Try it without the serial adapter isolator and you did put it back on port C???

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post #191 of 389 Old 04-23-2011, 03:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Here are some pics. I tried with and without adapter and port c and d
LL
LL
LL
LL
LL
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post #192 of 389 Old 04-23-2011, 03:41 PM
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OK, flip the ribbon cable. Remember I said "with the writing on the board up put the stripe up" You have the stripe down.

Also, is the isolator adapter also a "null modem" adapter??
If not you need to reverse 2 and 3.
Terminal 2 of the Jandy is RXD and terminal 2 of the (non standard serial port)
of the Pro2 is also RXD

You need TXD to RXD and RXD to TXD
Pin 5 is ground on both.

If you stick around long enough, I think we'll get it today

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post #193 of 389 Old 04-23-2011, 03:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Oh, I flipped it earlier and then didn't flip it back. Not sure about the adapter. How would I know?
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post #194 of 389 Old 04-23-2011, 03:45 PM
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If it;s to much trouble to swap the pins on the existing cable, Radio shack has null modem cable and null modem adapters Take your pick.
You just need to swap 2 and 3 on one end.

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post #195 of 389 Old 04-23-2011, 03:53 PM - Thread Starter
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The db9 plug that came with the adapter is a plastic one that will not allow you to change pins best I can tell. I am guess that is why the jandy serial isolator is needed? I can get a null modem adapter though
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post #196 of 389 Old 04-23-2011, 04:05 PM
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Is that plastic db-9 plug part of the ribbon cable? Anyway flip the ribbon connector at the serial adapter and call that part a day.

You can use your digital multimeter to test that isolator. If your meter has a diode test that beeps when you touch the probes together you can test the adapter for "null". The platic part that holds the pins or sockets in place are numbered. You need good eyes to see the numbers. Touch one probe to pin or socket 2 on one side and pin or socket 3 on the other side. If you get a beep, it's a null adapter. Use it. If you are testing female db9 you can use a paper clip to reach inside. Most probes won't fit into the small hole.

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post #197 of 389 Old 04-23-2011, 04:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Ill give that a try, thanks again for the help and check your pm
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post #198 of 389 Old 04-23-2011, 04:19 PM
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I am willing to keep going with this tonight as long as you are. I'm getting pissed and want to see this work just as much as you.

Tomorrow is another thing. I'm on call tomrrow and may be here or not.
You know how that goes

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post #199 of 389 Old 04-23-2011, 04:24 PM - Thread Starter
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No kidding, it is really irritating to have to go to the theater closet to adjust the pool!! I really appreciate your time. My father-in law just arrived so the wifey is telling me to give it a call!! I will get the null adapter tonight and see how that goes and post back. Thanks again.
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post #200 of 389 Old 04-23-2011, 04:32 PM
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I will be here all night. I may be over to remote central for a while looking for some IR codes for a programming project I'm working on but I will be back.

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post #201 of 389 Old 04-23-2011, 07:07 PM
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I want you to shut off the Jandy and un-plug the Pro2.
With the ribbon cable in the correct position, install the null modem adapter and connect to port C. Power up the Jandy first and wait for the one touch to be up and running than plug in the pro2 and wait for it to re-boot.

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post #202 of 389 Old 04-23-2011, 07:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Tried the null modem adapter. Nothing. Anyway to test if its the pro2 to receiving or the adapter not sending the info?
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post #203 of 389 Old 04-24-2011, 05:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A&M 350Z View Post

Tried the null modem adapter. Nothing. Anyway to test if its the pro2 to receiving or the adapter not sending the info?

Not from here.


Recap

1. We have triple checked and replaced the connection between the Jandy controller and serial adapter, so I think it's safe to say we are good to go right up to the red (J2) connection on the serial adapter.

2. We have confirmed that there is a jumper on (JP4) only.

3. We have set the dip switches per the manual to one adapter set to 9600 baud. Please double check 1-off 2-off 3-on 4-off 5-on 6-on.
As a last resort , just for the heck of it, try switch 1 to the on position. If that does nothing, put it back to off. I'm still curious how that adapter got set to 2400 baud if that's the one that came with the system and why you are showing serial activity on port D when the program you provided shows "pool connections" to port C 9600 baud and port D unused.


I'm 99% sure we have all the wiring correct with port c and d questionable.
Perhaps there has been programming alterations and I don't have the most current.

Last ditch experiment

Shut everything back off re-set dip switches 4, 5 and 6 back to 2400 baud
4-on 5-off 6-on and re-connect serial adapter to port D. Then try that both ways null and straight through.

Question: Did you say in a previous post that if someone presses a button on a tp related to the pool you see the activity on port D? If so, the program I have can't be the latest version.

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post #204 of 389 Old 04-24-2011, 08:47 AM - Thread Starter
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1. Yes. And I also plug the one touch into the j2 cat5 termination (the serial adapter and one touch have same plug) and it works at that end as well.

2. Yep, JP4 only.

3. Yes, triple checked! I will switch 1 to see.

Good idea. I will try it as was with null.

No, I noticed when you look at the com info on the pro2 panel it is com D that is transmitting pool item requests but is not receiving from the serial adapter.
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post #205 of 389 Old 04-24-2011, 09:23 AM
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"Good idea. I will try it as was with null."

Try it both ways, with and without null adapter.

Besides the theater remote, is anything else not working as expected?
When is the programmer supposed to show up?
I really think the version of your program I have is bogus as port D is empty.

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post #206 of 389 Old 04-25-2011, 04:30 PM
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In a past thread you asked about the screen material. So today I looked it up again. The screen is a straight off the shelf pt# 84326 which is a 52X92
106 diagonal 1.78: "Matte White" screen. If it isn't matte white, someone re-clothed it.

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post #207 of 389 Old 04-25-2011, 05:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks.

I tried original settings with null adapter. Nothing. I will retry everything just to be sure on wednesday. Otherwise will just have to wait for programmer.

I checked again with original owner and this is the most recent version he has. I guess no guarantees there were some additional updates along the line somewhere.

I am really happy to have made it this far!
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post #208 of 389 Old 04-26-2011, 04:00 AM
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If you have access to the original owner still and are on good terms with him perhaps he could shed some light on what was connected to what.
You might ask him if he took everything out, does he remember what port the Jandy was working on. You might also want to ask him if he has the router that was configured into the system. It may just be sitting on the floor of his new place unused. I can't tell you how many places I go where there are multiple used routers and switches just sitting there because the new home was already connected. That would (or should) resolve the theater remote problem.

I feel like I own this system now. I want to see it working just as much as you. When will the programmer be going there?

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post #209 of 389 Old 04-26-2011, 09:23 PM - Thread Starter
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I got as much info as I could! He was a hands of kinda guy so he doesn't really know things like com ports, etc. I am very lucky he even had the program. I had a feeling this was the case when he recommended I get a "receiver with equalizer" and a "state of the art 720p projector"

I am going to try to save some money by having the programmer only come once to update software for my new equipment and reinstall what I couldn't get to work. Most of the equipment I have with the exception of the pj. I am actively trying to decide what I want. As soon as I get that I will have him come out and finish up.
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post #210 of 389 Old 04-26-2011, 10:26 PM
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Just curious, Do you have the alarm system connected to port E and do you have control over it?
I have my eye on a thread in another forum about Jandy communication and the need to initialize the serial adapter to get communication back.

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