Home automation conundrom. Need to solve with next 4 weeks. - Page 2 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #31 of 39 Old 02-20-2012, 09:06 AM
AVS Special Member
 
jautor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 7,709
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 86 Post(s)
Liked: 344
Quote:
Originally Posted by adamfit View Post

But that would be free. Literally free...already part of the contract, and done with a smile.

And likely worth every penny.

You need to give him a plan - hire someone to make you a plan. The electrician can pull the wires just fine as long as someone who knows what the wires are for gives him the list and location(s). Pay for the expertise, you've got the labor for "free" (we call that "included").

Jeff

Rock Creek Theater -- CIH, Panamorph, Martin Logan, SVS PB2000, Carada Masquerade, Grafik Eye, Bar table, Green Glue, JVC RS50 
Theater build photos: http://photobucket.com/autor-ht

jautor is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #32 of 39 Old 02-20-2012, 11:45 AM
Senior Member
 
M1chael's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 305
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
adamfit-

If you are insisting on having the electrician pull some wires for you, you can always do what I did and mark on the studs what specific wires go where. I can remember taking my sharpie from room to room and marking rg6 / cat5e connections. Also did that with light / fan switches as well. That way you are pretty much "dumbing" it down as much as possible in order to avoid mistakes on having cables hanging from the ceiling
M1chael is offline  
post #33 of 39 Old 02-20-2012, 03:16 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Neurorad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Give a monkey a brain...
Posts: 5,060
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 77
I'd rather pay and have it done right.

You get one chance to prewire.

Adding cables later will be very expensive.

Believe nothing, no matter where you read it, or who said it, no matter if I have said it, unless it agrees with your own reason and your own common sense. -Buddha

Give a monkey a brain and he'll swear he's the center of the universe. -Fishbone
Neurorad is offline  
post #34 of 39 Old 02-20-2012, 05:08 PM
Senior Member
 
BradKas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 253
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Yeah unfortunately I see this going sideways. It's too bad because the OP seems like a good guy with the right intentions.

There is absolutely no replacement for the knowledge of a pro when results are needed within 4 weeks. Even for someone to begin to DIY an install like this, they need to understand the amazing amount of real world experience that compliments researching manuals and feature sets.
BradKas is offline  
post #35 of 39 Old 02-20-2012, 06:09 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
adamfit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 18
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I have made contact (through this forum), with some who are amenable to designing the system. I will probably use CQC since it allows the home owner to program. It is closer to my income level. (You cant buy champaign with a beer budget!)

It will take some learning, but I look forward to that.

Simply put, I'm not going to walk away from the pre-paid wiring. We're talking several thousands of dollars. I will make sure the wires are CAT 5e, labeled and checked.

Thank you all for your kind suggestions, and the generosity of your time.
adamfit is offline  
post #36 of 39 Old 02-20-2012, 06:33 PM
Senior Member
 
BradKas's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 253
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
CQC sounds like a good bet for your control system, but it does not solve the issue of what all your sub systems are going to be.

I certainly do not recommend walking away from the pre-paid pre wire of low voltage cables, but the hard labor is the inexpensive monkey work. The design is the important and costly part.

Guides online, and posts in this thread are a great start, and will certainly put you leagues ahead of winging it, but they are not a replacement for the design of a cohesive system.

This really comes down to what your expectations are. I always try and blow my clients away, and in this business you always run the risk of seriously underwhelming people.

Anyways, all this chit chat aside - Good luck!!

Brad
BradKas is offline  
post #37 of 39 Old 02-20-2012, 06:48 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Neurorad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Give a monkey a brain...
Posts: 5,060
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 77
Start a thread at CQC forum, and search there. Figure out what cables others used, for CQC. You may be able to add to the cables that the electrician is installing.

Think about lighting control, HVAC, alarm, tablet charging, distributed audio, surround sound, LAN drop in the kitchen, wireless access points, and cameras. Find out what other have done for these.

Believe nothing, no matter where you read it, or who said it, no matter if I have said it, unless it agrees with your own reason and your own common sense. -Buddha

Give a monkey a brain and he'll swear he's the center of the universe. -Fishbone
Neurorad is offline  
post #38 of 39 Old 02-21-2012, 12:36 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
Dean Roddey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 1999
Posts: 19,421
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 15 Post(s)
Liked: 62
In terms of music, you can take either a push or pull approach. You can push the music out from a centralized location, which means you need analog audio lines to wherever you want the music to go. Or you can pull it from the server to players in the room, which means it can use the same ethernet as anything else in the room. They both have their plusses and minuses I guess.

In the push scenario you can put a multi-output audio card into the server, such as the M-Audio 1010, and load multiple instances of our headless audio player, each one of them pointed at a separate output. One 1010 will let you do 5 stereo outputs, so you can do 5 zones of output for the (backend) cost of just a single audio card which isn't much. Those outputs can be sent into a multi-zone audio amp/switcher, or just to powered speakers in each room if you are OK with dedicated zones per room.

If you go with the pull method, you need some sort of controllable player in the rooms, or some sort of touch screen client in the room which has an audio card. If you are already going to have a hard wired client in the room, it can provide the local playback by pulling from the server.

Dean Roddey
Chairman/CTO, Charmed Quark Systems, Ltd

www.charmedquark.com

 

Dean Roddey is online now  
post #39 of 39 Old 02-21-2012, 05:27 PM
 
alk3997's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,722
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 87
Quote:
Originally Posted by gregzoll View Post

The problem with that, is that you end up tearing up the other cables in the conduit, when pulling stuff. It is okay for back to the racks, but not a necessity if you build for the future, or know that later on you are going to be ripping stuff out somewhere in the next 10 to 20 years, and redoing it.

Three tricks to prevent what you have said. 1) Use conduit that is big enough that you can easily move the wires; 2) Conduit lubricant - available at The Home Depot. It can be sent down with a snake and 3) If space permits, abandon in place.

The conduit lubricant has really solved a bunch of headaches in pushing more wires and should work in reverse.
alk3997 is offline  
Reply Home Automation

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off