Finally: Toshiba HL167 calibration post...better late than never!! - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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post #181 of 1150 Old 03-10-2008, 11:02 AM
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David,

I am on the exact same boat as you it seems. When I put in Joe's settings it is way too warm and dark for me, very yellowish red. With Kryspy's SM settings it is way too yellow for me and the greens are way too muted. What I did was went back to just about Defaults and took the tint down to -13 and the gdrive down to -9. Then I took Kryspy's CM settings and toned down the saturation of the green as well as the hue some as well. I did the same for the Yellow saturation, and then toned down the Magenta as well. I think my picture is just about there as well now, as I did not seem to have as much green push as others here so just playing with the colors did it for me thus far. I think the CM settings from Kryspy were just too radical for my set so toning them down some did the trick for me, and even the "boss" says it looks much better. If you want me to post my settings I can do so.
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post #182 of 1150 Old 03-10-2008, 11:11 AM
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For those of you with minimal green push. Here are my settings.

rcut 00h
gcut 00h
bcut 00h
rdrv 78h
gdrv 78h
bdrv 89h
brtc 7CH
colc AEH

contrast 95
brightness 50
color 35
color temp COOL
tint -13
bdrv 0
gdrv -9
backlight 45
dynalight off
gamma +2
sharpness 20
dynamic middle

Colormaster ON
Red 10,5,-5
Green -15,-10,0
Blue 8,6,5
Yellow 5,5,-3
Magenta -15,15,5
Cyan -2,-12,0
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post #183 of 1150 Old 03-10-2008, 04:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Susilo View Post

Submitting my (maybe) final settings: It's a mix between Joe's, Kryspy's and my own.

Service Menu:

Cuts
R ECH
G EBH
B 80H

Drives
R 6BH
G 6BH
B 6BH

COLC 80H
BRTC 76H

User Menu:

Contrast 90
Backlight 30
Dynalight Off
Brightness 50
Color 50
Tint -5
Sharpness 50

Advanced Picture Settings
Dynamic Contrast Low
Static Gamma +2
Color Temp Low
B Drive
G Drive -9

Noise Reduction
DNR off
Mpeg off

Colormaster ON
Red 10,5,-5
Green -30,-20,0
Blue 8,6,5
Yellow 5,10,-3
Magenta -19,23,5
Cyan -2,-12,0

Tested the settings out again i might have made a mistake they look great on my tv perfect colors and everything.I did lower the yellow saturation down to 5 though.

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Cinema: Onkyo TX-SR304 and Sony STR-K790
HD:Directv HR21-100 and HR21-200 with 1TB External HDD
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post #184 of 1150 Old 03-10-2008, 09:33 PM
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Thanks Joe for explaining that. I decided to take a chance with the SM. I changed it to what was generally used on this post. It looks a lot better. I still may need to tweak it a little, but it looks a heck of a lot better than it did. I was starting to worry if I had something wrong with the tv. I appreciate everyone's help.
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post #185 of 1150 Old 03-11-2008, 09:42 PM
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Just wanted to say thanks for posting all the settings....I got this tv a few weeks ago and just got around to playing with the SM. You all have been a huge help
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post #186 of 1150 Old 03-12-2008, 06:14 AM - Thread Starter
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glad to help...

tonight I'm going to see if I can get the color temperature a little better across the board...I noticed my blues are a little high and the reds are slightly low. so i'll post some more settings hopefully tonight.
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post #187 of 1150 Old 03-12-2008, 03:17 PM
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For my panel and firmware I think I am almost at a happy place now.

Service Menu:

Cuts

R ECH
G 80H
B 80H

Drives

R 70H For me it seems that the red drive and blue must be higher than the green to make the green go away. If you make both the same
G 6BH green stays
B 70H

COLC 80H
BRTC 70H <--- lowers the glare produced by shutting off dynamic contrast

User Menu:

Contrast 90
Backlight 40
Dynalight Off
Brightness 50
Color 50
Tint 0
Sharpness 0 <---- Reduces macro blocking and makes the picture pop.

Advanced Picture Settings

Dynamic Contrast OFF <--- Eliminates black crush and makes picture pop
Static Gamma +2
Color Temp Low
B Drive 0
G Drive -9

Noise Reduction

DNR off
Mpeg off

Colormaster OFF

Pictures to follow later tonight.

Kryspy
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post #188 of 1150 Old 03-12-2008, 05:06 PM
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Kryspy, when you say "0" for sharpness do you mean set at normal "50" or do you mean set it all the way down to 0 ? I know that may not be the most intelligent question of the day but I just wanted to confirm. Thanks

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post #189 of 1150 Old 03-12-2008, 05:17 PM
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No I mean 0 as in zero

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post #190 of 1150 Old 03-12-2008, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kryspy View Post

For my panel and firmware I think I am almost at a happy place now.

Service Menu:

Cuts

R ECH
G 80H
B 80H

Drives

R 70H For me it seems that the red drive and blue must be higher than the green to make the green go away. If you make both the same
G 6BH green stays
B 70H

COLC 80H
BRTC 70H <--- lowers the glare produced by shutting off dynamic contrast

User Menu:

Contrast 90
Backlight 40
Dynalight Off
Brightness 50
Color 50
Tint 0
Sharpness 0 <---- Reduces macro blocking and makes the picture pop.

Advanced Picture Settings

Dynamic Contrast OFF <--- Eliminates black crush and makes picture pop
Static Gamma +2
Color Temp Low
B Drive 0
G Drive -9

Noise Reduction

DNR off
Mpeg off

Colormaster OFF

Pictures to follow later tonight.

Kryspy

Great settings they do seem to be the best. I always prefered sharpness to 0 anyways on digital stuff sharpness is not required anyways.

TV: Vizio 32" LCD and Toshiba 42" LCD
Cinema: Onkyo TX-SR304 and Sony STR-K790
HD:Directv HR21-100 and HR21-200 with 1TB External HDD
HD Players:Toshiba HD-A2,Sony BD-350
Remote: Harmony One
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post #191 of 1150 Old 03-12-2008, 06:01 PM
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Some pics:











Kryspy


P.S. Bear in mind that Judge Joe Brown is a stretched SD upconvert.
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post #192 of 1150 Old 03-12-2008, 06:51 PM
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Kryspy, from your pics your settings look great. On my TV, however, everything look very magenta-ish.

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post #193 of 1150 Old 03-12-2008, 07:30 PM
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Wow guys theres a ton of good info here.

I just picked up the 52HL167 as a warranty replacement for my 51" Hitachi RP. And I take delivery on Saturday.

Now I have two options for my calibration, HD cable box via HDMI/DVI cable. Or I also have a Toshiba up converting DVD player through HDMI. Which should I use?

Oh and please forgive my ignorance as I am not sure if this is in the manual or not but how do you get to the service menu?
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post #194 of 1150 Old 03-12-2008, 08:08 PM
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1. use the input you used most often.
2. press "MUTE" on your menu and while doing that, press "MENU" on the side of your TV.

to exit SM, press "EXIT" on the remote then turn the TV off.

Bear in mind that COLC and BRTC are input dependent (meaning every input can have its own BRTC and COLC settings)

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post #195 of 1150 Old 03-12-2008, 08:18 PM
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Hey Kryspy, these are good. The only thing I have different is I have G-drive -4 (it looked a little to red/purple/magenta whatever it's called) and I have kept the Dynamic contrast to low.

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post #196 of 1150 Old 03-12-2008, 08:19 PM
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Kryspy,

Thought I was done untile I just for fun decided to try your new settings out without the CM. I love em, its a bit bright for me so I went with low on the dynamic contrast and upped the backlight a bit and it looks fantastic on all sources. I went back to my defaults and used your CM settings a while back but I watched All the King's men last night and noticed the green/blue push some on the darker scenes....I highly recommend using that movie for deciding whether or not you have a green/blue push...I could definetly see a bit, but it took a movie like that for me to notice so I am guessing it wasnt that bad on my set. Like the new settings a lot. THanks again.

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post #197 of 1150 Old 03-12-2008, 08:34 PM
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Yeah, these seem to bring back the " vivid color" better then the previous settings, with the color accuracy staying more realistic. If that made sense.

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post #198 of 1150 Old 03-13-2008, 07:33 AM - Thread Starter
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well...never got to try to get the grays a little better last night...will post when i do...busy busy busy! looks like K's got it good, and that is a good thing....great job...when I get another chance, I'll compare what I get with those and see where we are off...also, I haven't taken any measurements with Ks settings yet...but I'll get around to it!
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post #199 of 1150 Old 03-13-2008, 08:21 AM
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I've been following this thread for a few days and finally got a chance to try some of the settings. I started with the settings on the first page and moved my way through all of them. I found J's first settings were a bit too dark for my taste, K's first settings were a bit too yellow. I migrated through all of the settings and could actually see the changes getting better. After I used K's last settings from post 187, I'm pretty pleased with the picture. You guys put in a lot of hard work, I appreciate it! I'll continue to monitor this post as I am interested in future findings.

Build Date March 2007.
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post #200 of 1150 Old 03-13-2008, 08:46 AM
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nest week I'm going to try to calibrate using a Sencore colorimeter. I'm tired of looking at magenta and green tinge on my LCD.

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post #201 of 1150 Old 03-13-2008, 09:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Susilo View Post

magenta and green tinge

I know what you mean. I tried all the new settings (cept the lastest one from Kryspy) and everything had a very strong magenta appearance on my set. As of now, I'm still using the settings from post 91 with the G-Drive turned down some, this seems to avoid the magenta, and green issues for me at least.

I am anxious to try those new settings though.
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post #202 of 1150 Old 03-13-2008, 09:19 AM
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is it possible that the colour decoder on Toshiba TVs are just out of whack? I've never had problem calibrating any TV before.

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post #203 of 1150 Old 03-13-2008, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lildarryl View Post

if anyone sees something that is not right on this list could they let me know i think if any of them are wrong its the ones at the end of the list.

hl107, 3.2.48.0, may 11 2007 - 15:15:28, FW:25

r-cut 00h
gcut 00h
b-cut 00h
r-drive 7bh
g-drive 78h
brtc 7ch
colc aeh
uvtt 80h
cntx 7fh
shrc 15h
vbis 01h
cc 01h
id1 01h
gg 01h
phdt 09h
opt1 00h
opt2 00h
opt3 20h
opt4 38h
opt5 01h
setid b1h
magc 00h
v01 5fh
v25 adh
v50 dfh
v75 f9h
v100 ffh
volbs 00h
volst 00h
evol 00h
volx 64h
basx 1ah
trex 1ah
tonn 08h
basc 02h
trec 00h
ebas 01h
etre 01h
won2 11h
als 00h
alof 00h
vstb 00h
vs3d 00h
vfcs 00h
vtbh 00h
vtbl 00h
vvdd 00h
wfcs 00h
wwsp 00h
wtbh 00h
wtbl 00h
volm 32h

a lot of the settings are different than my TV

anybody can tell me what are the following parameter control?

won2 11h
als 00h
alof 00h
vstb 00h
vs3d 00h
vfcs 00h
vtbh 00h
vtbl 00h
vvdd 00h
wfcs 00h
wwsp 00h
wtbh 00h
wtbl 00h

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post #204 of 1150 Old 03-13-2008, 10:01 AM
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What do I need to calibrate my tv is there a special tool that is used or something and where can i get one
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post #205 of 1150 Old 03-13-2008, 10:03 AM
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at the very least you can use Avia or DVE DVDs, then you can step up to getting a probe for you TV from Spyder, Getrag Macbeth, or if you really have the budget you can go with Philips or Sencore colorimeter.

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post #206 of 1150 Old 03-13-2008, 10:17 AM
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Or you could just eyeball it

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post #207 of 1150 Old 03-13-2008, 10:42 AM
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lol
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post #208 of 1150 Old 03-13-2008, 10:47 AM
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In my experience the blue settings really affect the magenta, so maybe try messing with the bdrive a bit and/or the bdrv in the SM.
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post #209 of 1150 Old 03-13-2008, 11:55 AM - Thread Starter
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David...color decoders seem to be out of whack on a lot of 40+ LCD TVs and they all need to be calibrated to some extent (nature of the beast)...changing the COLC helped get the primary and secondary colors in spec tremendously...but to see that, you have to get a scope on it and look at a CIE chart. The scope I'm using, the Gretag Macbeth X-rite/Pantone i1 Display2 is a very accurate scope, and priced under 2 bills...perfect for the DIYer, but for pro work, you would have to get something in the $1000 or more range that is a bit more precise...some go as high as 8-10Gs. There are not only colorimeters, there are spectroradiometers as well other types of probes to set up your monitor...go to the Display Calibration threads and read up if you're interested in knowing more.

bottlefed, I found mine on Ebay for under $150...Amazon has them for under 2 bills new...just gotta look.

keep in mind that K still used my base settings (I got from the probe) to build off of for his settings, so I don't think just by eye will do it for these Toshibas because they are so far out of whack from the factory !!
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post #210 of 1150 Old 03-13-2008, 12:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Susilo View Post

Joe,
is the green push a result of "bad panel" (or badly designed panel) or a result of bad settings? I'm thinking that if it's a result of bad panel, no matter what you'll still have the green push (albeit may be minimized).

i don't think it's a result of a bad panel...probably not that great decoding...some sets are better at decoding than others...with my setup and the Colormaster settings, the primary and Secondary colors are "in spec" but as some people have seen, their individual programming looks off here, too much this there....

we need to take into consideration that signal sources are different...HD DVDs off my A30 are beautiful...but cable...not so much...you're dealing with different broadcasters, different signal types...SD color space vs HD color space, compression ratios...you name it....broadcast TV sucks bottom line, no matter what you are using, digital cable, satellite, FIOS...it's all compressed...but HDM, be it BluRay, HD DVD, or what have you....even though compressed, you don't get the artifacts...and you get full 1080p resolution...so my HD DVDs and even SD DVDs look incredible...I live with the sub par SD broadcast, and make sure my Rangers, Yankees, and Nascar look great!

not to mention...some people like more vibrant colors, some more natural...that is where the individual tweaks come into play...my yellow may be more green than your, so even after correctly setting it up, I may feel I need to tweak it a bit...but that is why we have standards...the NTSC guys, to make each TV as corect as possible, but some TVs won't perform as well as the $20,000 CRT HD sets we have here at work....but we try to make them as close as possible...

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Susilo View Post

This is driving me nuts. Funny that I can calibrate CRT much easier than LCD.

LCD TVs are not CRTs...as I'm sure you're fully aware of.
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