Official LNXXA550 Calibration/Settings Thread - Page 34 - AVS Forum
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post #991 of 3237 Old 06-18-2008, 05:40 PM
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Because of my reciever, I'll be outputting both my upconverting Toshiba HD-A20, and PS3, through HDMI. Will both of these look fine with either the post 771 settings or will I HAVE to seperate these?
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post #992 of 3237 Old 06-18-2008, 08:06 PM
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I did a lot more lag testing tonight, and tried to compare VGA to HDMI2 - I found some problems with my last test due to resolution problems.

For the tests, I had both the computer screen and the tv image set to 1280x800. I tested HDMI2 with game mode off, but had the input labeled as game. For vga I had the input labeled as "PC". Again, these are in reference to my ldc computer monitor, not a CRT set meaning 0ms lag would be equal to that of my laptop screen.

The results were:
HDMI2 - 0ms input lag
VGA -25-40 ms lag

I have no idea why VGA would have more input lag then HDMI, I would have put any amount of money on the opposite.

Picture through HDMI2
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post #993 of 3237 Old 06-18-2008, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Desides View Post

HDMI handles colors differently than component, so yes, you will see a difference.

that's what i was thinking too. in that case, has anyone seen any posts with good component video settings, because pretty much everything i've seen in this thread (and over the net for that matter) is via HDMI...

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post #994 of 3237 Old 06-18-2008, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIVE ONE SIX View Post

that's what i was thinking too. in that case, has anyone seen any posts with good component video settings, because pretty much everything i've seen in this thread (and over the net for that matter) is via HDMI...


I would like to know the same thing about component video settings 5 1 6 Hope you don't mind me calling you a #

Why do you use component ? I use it for the Close Caption But when I get my PS3 I will use HDMI cable because when I watch movies from PS3 the DVDs will have subtitle So I will be Ok there

Hey clicq how about hooking us up with a Great setting for component maybe in Standard and Movie, No rush, Just hurry up, Just teasing with you Your doing a GREAT job making everyone LOVE their 550s more Thanks
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post #995 of 3237 Old 06-18-2008, 09:33 PM
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Alright, the girlfriend finally finished MGS4, so I got some time to play a bit more with the settings. I changed the settings on my PS3 to disable superwhite mode, because I found it was just making video level white less white. (As a reminder, my PS3 is hooked up via HDMI into HDMI1.)

The firmware on my TV at the time of these settings was 1002.2.

In these settings, I tried to tone down the red a bit but still keep everything as accurate as I could. These settings should be appropriate for any HD device connected through HDMI except for possibly PCs which should use my previous settings.

Most accurate settings
(This with the mode at movie). You must change the mode to movie. It's the first option in the picture menu. You will not be able to choose warm1 or warm2 if you don't!
Backlight = 6
Contrast = 85
Brightness = 49
Sharpness = 0
Color = 50
Tint = G50/R50

DETAILED SETTINGS

Black Adjust = Off
Dynamic Contrast = Off
Gamma = 0
Color Space = Custom
Red: R33 - G0 - B0
Green: R18 - G52 - B0
Blue: R11 - G0 - B51
Yellow: R49 - G53 - B0
Cyan: R22 - G46 - B56
Magenta: R37 - G0 - B43
Flesh Tone = 0
Edge Enhancement = Off
Xycc = Off

WHITE BALANCE

R-Offset = 26
G-Offset = 25
B-Offset = 22
R-Gain = 30
G-Gain = 25
B-Gain = 25

PICTURE OPTIONS

Color Tone = Warm 2
Digital N/R = Off
HDMI Black Level = Low (actually it's disabled when playing Blu-ray) <-- set this according to your source! If you use a PC, or a PS3/Xbox360 with expanded RGB levels, you might need to set this to normal!
Film Mode = off (disabled)
Blue Mode = Off

Energy Saving = Medium
Entertainment modes = Off

Graphs

RGB Levels, with error indicated by the magenta line on the bottom. Below 3 is the target.


Luminance curve. It's pretty close to reference, though blue is a little low.


Gamma curve. It's close to the reference of 2.22, though it drops off a bit at the high end, but I can't seem to do anything to fix that.


CIE color diagram. Note that green and red are slightly off still; I hope to address that this evening.

Settings that are not as "warm"
Some people feel that my settings are a bit too warm. If you think the above settings are a bit too warm, you can try these settings. I obtained these settings by calibrating to a cooler whitepoint (D75 instead of D65). Note that although these settings are based off "standard", the white balance settings are set to make it closer to what "warm1" would look like instead of normal (note the extreme value of B-gain). I did this so I could easily switch between my settings above and these settings.

Note that I was too lazy to generate color space settings for this mode, partly because you can only have 1 custom color space per input, so I would have lost the settings I made above. You can set it to Auto or use the custom settings above, depending on your preference.

The best settings should be those above; this is presented as an alternative to those that would prefer a cooler picture. I did not spend as much time getting these settings as the ones above, so they are likely to have some issues! But if I get enough feedback, I may go back and calibrate these settings "correctly" .

Start with "Standard" mode
Backlight = 5
Contrast = 85
Brightness = 49
Sharpness = 0
Color = 50
Tint = G50/R50

DETAILED SETTINGS

Black Adjust = Off
Dynamic Contrast = Off
Gamma = 0
Color Space = Auto (or set it to custom above)
Flesh Tone = 0
Edge Enhancement = Off
Xycc = Off

WHITE BALANCE

R-Offset = 25
G-Offset = 25
B-Offset = 26
R-Gain = 37
G-Gain = 25
B-Gain = 0

PICTURE OPTIONS

Color Tone = Normal
Digital N/R = Off
HDMI Black Level = Low (actually it's disabled when playing Blu-ray)
Film Mode = off (disabled)
Blue Mode = Off

Energy Saving = Medium
Entertainment modes = Off


Sample Pictures
I took a few sample pictures to show roughly what the settings look like on my TV. You have to consider when looking at these pictures that my camera may not be that great, that the exposure probably changes between pictures, but I did fix white balance at "shade" on my camera because it most closely matched what I see. These pictures may not be exactly what you see in real life, but you can compare between them.

I've tried to capture a wide range of scenes. Some of the scenes you can tell a definite difference, some scenes you can't; this mirrors what you'd experience in real life.

First image: b&w scene from Wall-E trailer on the Playstation Store:

First set of settings above


Second set of settings above


Second set of settings above, but using cool2 instead of normal

Second image: a scene from the 2nd Hancock trailer:

First set of settings above.


Second set of settings above.


Dynamic-based "Normal" color mode, without altering the white balance (I got this by changing the color tone in dynamic mode to normal and turning off as much processing as I could, so no DNIe and sharpness was set to 0, but detailed settings aren't available so there are likely some processing things still stuck on).

Third image: beginning of a race in the GRID demo. I actually have no idea what it's supposed to look like, for reference here's a screenshot: http://www.gamespot.com/pages/image_...d=939159&img=2

First set of settings above


Second set of settings above


Dynamic-based "Normal" color mode, without altering the white balance.


Game mode

Fourth image: Scene from the Devil May Cry 4 demo on the PS3

First set of settings above


Second set of settings above


Dynamic-based normal mode

Fifth image: Ninja Gaiden Sigma demo on the PS3

First set of settings above


Second set of settings above


Dynamic-based normal mode

Sixth image: Scene from about the middle of the new Narnia trailer

First set of settings above


Second set of settings above


Dynamic-based normal mode. I think dynamic is doing some weird processing to the grass; note how some of the grass looks neon green.

Seventh image: Near the end of the Narnia trailer

First set of settings above


Second set of settings above


Dynamic-based normal.

Things you can change:
Definitely set the brightness, contrast, and backlight settings to your viewing environment and preferences.

Changing the backlight or switching the energy saving mode does not affect the accuracy of the picture, so you can set it as you like. Altering the brightness and contrast doesn't do much except alter the gamma slightly.

Changing the color tone setting from warm 2 to anything else changes the mix of colors, as you might expect, but it does not change the shape of the levels (i.e. it's ok to change it if you don't care about the color of white being accurate).

If you think blues are too purple, change the color space settings and reduce the value of red and increase the value of blue to about 60. The color is accurate according to my meter, but who knows . I watched some underwater scenes from Apple's Quicktime gallery and it looked alright to me. NOTE: Have a Motorola DVR and think blues with my settings are purplish? See this post from agent87

Some people prefer a higher value of sharpness than what I have here (0). I set mine using a 1080p test pattern, but if you prefer a sharper image and don't see any sharpening artifacts, then set it to whatever you prefer. I don't think you'll need to go past 10 on a high-def source though; 480p/i sources may benefit from higher values.

If you think you're losing shadow detail, you can try to increase the gamma, but it will tend to wash out the image. Some games may need this though.

If you like a bit more "pop", you'll probably want to either increase the backlight or turn off energy saver, and maybe experiment with dynamic contrast and energy saver set to auto. You'll probably like the second set of settings a little better too.

As always, comments/criticisms are welcomed .

UPDATE: I have attached a file with the ColorHCFR files, if anybody wants to take a look. In the zip file, the calibrated file is the one with the date after it.

UPDATE: There are some settings based off warm1 instead of warm2 in this post.

UPDATE: I have settings for the 1006.1 firmware in this post and more updated settings in this post.

 

Samsung 46A550.zip 7.453125k . file
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post #996 of 3237 Old 06-19-2008, 12:01 AM
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clicq, since you mention your PS3 being plugged into HDMI1, I'm wondering... does it really make a difference which HDMI port you plug a device into? I would hope not; I have my DirecTV box in HDMI1, my PC in HDMI2, and my PS3 in HDMI3.
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post #997 of 3237 Old 06-19-2008, 04:15 AM
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Your first set of settings look really good. Now that I can see Warm 2 in action, it makes black and white material look the way it's supposed to. That's for sure. The second set of settings, are also decent!

The whites in the image for the second Hancock trailer don't really look 'warm' at all. That picture, at least by seeing it from your snapshot, looks very natural and 'movie theater' like.

It's in the video game where you can really see the 'warmth' of the picture and for games, the 'accurate' settings may be a little too warm for my blood Well, it seems clicq that you've had the best things to help us out with on this set so far. I'll probably be using either your first or second set of settings

Oh, btw, I'd be curious to see video game comparisons between your first and second set of settings, as opposed to first set of settings vs game mode.

Thank you so much clicq!!!!
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post #998 of 3237 Old 06-19-2008, 05:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Desides View Post

clicq, since you mention your PS3 being plugged into HDMI1, I'm wondering... does it really make a difference which HDMI port you plug a device into? I would hope not; I have my DirecTV box in HDMI1, my PC in HDMI2, and my PS3 in HDMI3.

I couldn't discern a visual difference when switching between HDMI ports, so I don't think the port matters. I was just including that info for sake of completeness .

Quote:
Originally Posted by mzupeman View Post

Your first set of settings look really good. Now that I can see Warm 2 in action, it makes black and white material look the way it's supposed to. That's for sure. The second set of settings, are also decent!

The whites in the image for the second Hancock trailer don't really look 'warm' at all. That picture, at least by seeing it from your snapshot, looks very natural and 'movie theater' like.

It's in the video game where you can really see the 'warmth' of the picture and for games, the 'accurate' settings may be a little too warm for my blood Well, it seems clicq that you've had the best things to help us out with on this set so far. I'll probably be using either your first or second set of settings

Oh, btw, I'd be curious to see video game comparisons between your first and second set of settings, as opposed to first set of settings vs game mode.

Thank you so much clicq!!!!

Your wish is my command, I updated the post with a few additional pictures. Actually, judging from the screenshot (which I assume is captured without the use of a camera), the game is supposed to look a little warm.

I should also emphasize that these pictures, being taken by a camera, may not exactly reflect what we see. I could make all the pictures look closer, for example, if I had the camera use automatic white balance.
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post #999 of 3237 Old 06-19-2008, 06:26 AM
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Hi, i just bought a LN46A530, i' very happy with it, except I have a little problem with my PC, connected via DVI-to-HMDI.

When I set my video card to output at 1920x1080@24hz, in my TV menu I can adjust all settings I want. But when I set the TV output to 1920x1080@60hz, a lot of settings on the TV comes grayed out like the Just Scan option, Sharpness, etc...

Do you have an idea of what could be the problem ?

My video card is an ATi HD3870 using the last drivers on Windows XP.

Thanks for your help
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post #1000 of 3237 Old 06-19-2008, 06:27 AM
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I finally got a reply from Mr. Samsung who works for Samsung. He asked some experts in the office and found out this about our picture sizing issue.

Just scan should only be used with PCs. Just scan is a 1:1 pixel mapping picture size, which eliminates overscan. This is useful when using the TV as a PC monitor because PCs do not have overscan, so some of the PC image would be cut off. By using Just Scan, the picture fills the screen just as it should.

However, other broadcast signals, such as TV, or DVD, do have overscan, which are parts of the picture that you are not intended to see, such as the white or yellow line described below. By selecting Just Scan, you are bringing these lines into view. The proper setting, to view the picture as intended, is 16:9. There will be no stretching or zooming of a natural 16:9 image when using the 16:9 picture setting.
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post #1001 of 3237 Old 06-19-2008, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brainmaze View Post

Hi, i just bought a LN46A530, i' very happy with it, except I have a little problem with my PC, connected via DVI-to-HMDI.

When I set my video card to output at 1920x1080@24hz, in my TV menu I can adjust all settings I want. But when I set the TV output to 1920x1080@60hz, a lot of settings on the TV comes grayed out like the Just Scan option, Sharpness, etc...

Do you have an idea of what could be the problem ?

My video card is an ATi HD3870 using the last drivers on Windows XP.

Thanks for your help

It sounds like you named the input "PC". In this mode, when you give it a normal computer resolution (like 1920x1080@60hz), it disables most of the settings. The settings show up when you run at 24Hz because it's not a "typical" PC mode. Try removing the name from the input and setting just scan on and sharpness to 0.

As an aside, does 24hz run pretty well for you? (I get stuttering in video playback using it; probably a problem with my drivers or something.)
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post #1002 of 3237 Old 06-19-2008, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clicq View Post

In these settings, I tried to tone down the red a bit but still keep everything as accurate as I could. These settings should be appropriate for any HD device connected through HDMI except for possibly PCs which should use my previous settings.


Guess I'm a little confused now. HD Cable Box hooked up via HDMI to TV - should I use these settings or the previous one (post 771 I think).
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post #1003 of 3237 Old 06-19-2008, 07:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryejay123 View Post

Guess I'm a little confused now. HD Cable Box hooked up via HDMI to TV - should I use these settings or the previous one (post 771 I think).

I don't have an HD cable box, so I couldn't tell you for sure, but I think these new settings should be better.

Why don't you be the guinea pig and try both, and tell us which looks better?
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post #1004 of 3237 Old 06-19-2008, 07:46 AM
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Heh, I can do that tonight. Wish there were an easy way to just flip btwn the two so I could note differences. By the time I changed settings, I'd forget what the original looked like.

Of course, I'm color blind so I'm probably not the best judge - hence why I look for calibration settings

I'll report this evening.
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post #1005 of 3237 Old 06-19-2008, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HistoneMaster View Post

I did a lot more lag testing tonight, and tried to compare VGA to HDMI2 - I found some problems with my last test due to resolution problems.

For the tests, I had both the computer screen and the tv image set to 1280x800. I tested HDMI2 with game mode off, but had the input labeled as game. For vga I had the input labeled as "PC". Again, these are in reference to my ldc computer monitor, not a CRT set meaning 0ms lag would be equal to that of my laptop screen.

The results were:
HDMI2 - 0ms input lag
VGA -25-40 ms lag

I have no idea why VGA would have more input lag then HDMI, I would have put any amount of money on the opposite.

Picture through HDMI2

VGA is analog so at the very least it needs to convert the analog signal to a digital signal before displaying it.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by clicq View Post

It sounds like you named the input "PC". In this mode, when you give it a normal computer resolution (like 1920x1080@60hz), it disables most of the settings. The settings show up when you run at 24Hz because it's not a "typical" PC mode. Try removing the name from the input and setting just scan on and sharpness to 0.

As an aside, does 24hz run pretty well for you? (I get stuttering in video playback using it; probably a problem with my drivers or something.)

Yes it runs quite well for me
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post #1007 of 3237 Old 06-19-2008, 09:31 AM
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Hey guys, I just got myself a Samsung 46" 550, and it's looking great.

I'm a little concerned because when I didn't get the calibration service the guy told me that in 4 years my TV will simply die. Is there any validity to what he's said?

But to make a long story short, I'm looking for a calibration that will work well with HDMI 360, along with my analog Wii, and yet not burn my Television out so quickly.

Any recommendations? If this has already been discussed, I apologize; I'm new here, and I'll try to learn quickly.

Thanks so much guys, I appreciate whatever input you can give. : )

EDIT: Also, is there anything I should know about the Backlight feature? Should I be wary of setting it too high? The default was 7, and I must say it seems really nice. Should I be worried about burning out the bulb too quickly on that setting?
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post #1008 of 3237 Old 06-19-2008, 10:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unichrone View Post

Hey guys, I just got myself a Samsung 46" 550, and it's looking great.

I'm a little concerned because when I didn't get the calibration service the guy told me that in 4 years my TV will simply die. Is there any validity to what he's said?

But to make a long story short, I'm looking for a calibration that will work well with HDMI 360, along with my analog Wii, and yet not burn my Television out so quickly.

Any recommendations? If this has already been discussed, I apologize; I'm new here, and I'll try to learn quickly.

Thanks so much guys, I appreciate whatever input you can give. : )

EDIT: Also, is there anything I should know about the Backlight feature? Should I be wary of setting it too high? The default was 7, and I must say it seems really nice. Should I be worried about burning out the bulb too quickly on that setting?

There's no truth to what the salesperson told you -- it surprises me the things they say to get the upsell. In the past, on CRT based displays (and maybe plasma to some extent), you could actually make the set too bright and burn the phosphors or reduce their life. Calibration would tend to reduce the brightness so this doesn't happen, and hence the point the salesperson was trying to make. However, this isn't a problem on LCD displays because the technology is different. The only real things to be worried about on LCD displays is the backlight or the electronics failing.

Having the backlight set higher may or may not reduce its life, but if it does, it won't make any appreciable difference -- instead of the backlight lasting 15years, maybe it'll only last 14 -- and truthfully, something else is going to fail in the TV first, or you'll have the itch to upgrade.
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The backlight on my Westinghouse only lasted 15 months. That's why I got this LN40A550 to replace the Westinghouse. Plus I got the 4 year warranty from BestBuy.

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I hear there is a lot of problems with motion blur on this model?? Can anyone expand on this issue? Does calibrating or using a certain mode fix the issue?
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post #1011 of 3237 Old 06-19-2008, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dumdee777 View Post

I hear there is a lot of problems with motion blur on this model?? Can anyone expand on this issue? Does calibrating or using a certain mode fix the issue?

Here's a link to a good article about the basics of calibration. Most of it is easily readable, some of it is a bit technical - really makes one appreciate all the efforts Clicq has made in providing us readers of this forum with his calibration insights - thanks Clicq!

http://www.lcdtvbuyingguide.com/lcdt...libration.html
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post #1012 of 3237 Old 06-19-2008, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clicq View Post

I couldn't discern a visual difference when switching between HDMI ports, so I don't think the port matters. I was just including that info for sake of completeness .

Alright, good.

Also, your recommended settings for the Display Settings on the PS3 are Cross Color Filter off, RGB levels set to limited, and Super White off, correct?
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post #1013 of 3237 Old 06-19-2008, 02:16 PM
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Clicq, thanks again. You've helped a lot. And this is more accurate than your infamous settings from 771? Going to be hard to pick between the normal settings, and the 'cooler' settings you provided. Because although they're not as 'bright', your whites in the first set do look white! So I'll just experiment with both and see what I come up with man, you rock.


But one last question again, both my upconverting DVD player, as well as my PS3 are going to be connected via the same HDMI cable from the reciever... will this be an issue?
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post #1014 of 3237 Old 06-19-2008, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Desides View Post

Alright, good.

Also, your recommended settings for the Display Settings on the PS3 are Cross Color Filter off, RGB levels set to limited, and Super White off, correct?

Yep, that's correct, at least until I find evidence to change my mind .

My reasoning for RGB level set to limited is that movies are made at video levels, and games are probably more likely to be made to look good at video levels, so expanding RGB would just be scaling the colors, so it wouldn't make it any better. Then again, if you're dealing with a PC port or a game company that doesn't know any better, the games may be made for PC levels and thus you'd see black crush with RGB set to limited... so I don't really know what the best answer is. I think as long as it matches the setting on the TV, you're 99% of the way there .

Super white does some strange things to the color of white (it looks like it's reducing the brightness of video level white (235) in order to show the range from 236-255 better, but since there's not a lot of content in that range in the first place, you're really just reducing the contrast).

I have no idea what the cross color filter does, which is why I didn't turn it on -- if you know what it does, I'd like to know .

Quote:
Originally Posted by mzupeman View Post

Clicq, thanks again. You've helped a lot. And this is more accurate than your infamous settings from 771? Going to be hard to pick between the normal settings, and the 'cooler' settings you provided. Because although they're not as 'bright', your whites in the first set do look white! So I'll just experiment with both and see what I come up with man, you rock.


But one last question again, both my upconverting DVD player, as well as my PS3 are going to be connected via the same HDMI cable from the reciever... will this be an issue?

I believe these are more accurate than my 771 post, but truthfully, by the time I switch the settings, I've already forgotten what the old settings look like. At any rate, they should be relatively close, so I'd go with the ones you think are better. I think the 771 settings have more red push to them than these settings, though.

I don't have too many sources to test with (just my computer and my PS3), so I can't say for sure, but I think you'll be OK using the same settings for the PS3 and the upconverting DVD player.
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post #1015 of 3237 Old 06-19-2008, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by clicq View Post

Yep, that's correct, at least until I find evidence to change my mind .

My reasoning for RGB level set to limited is that movies are made at video levels, and games are probably more likely to be made to look good at video levels, so expanding RGB would just be scaling the colors, so it wouldn't make it any better. Then again, if you're dealing with a PC port or a game company that doesn't know any better, the games may be made for PC levels and thus you'd see black crush with RGB set to limited... so I don't really know what the best answer is. I think as long as it matches the setting on the TV, you're 99% of the way there .

Super white does some strange things to the color of white (it looks like it's reducing the brightness of video level white (235) in order to show the range from 236-255 better, but since there's not a lot of content in that range in the first place, you're really just reducing the contrast).

I have no idea what the cross color filter does, which is why I didn't turn it on -- if you know what it does, I'd like to know .



I believe these are more accurate than my 771 post, but truthfully, by the time I switch the settings, I've already forgotten what the old settings look like. At any rate, they should be relatively close, so I'd go with the ones you think are better. I think the 771 settings have more red push to them than these settings, though.

I don't have too many sources to test with (just my computer and my PS3), so I can't say for sure, but I think you'll be OK using the same settings for the PS3 and the upconverting DVD player.

Clicq can you please post the gamma and color diagrams (the good ones - close to D6500) for your latest settings with ps3? thanks man
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post #1016 of 3237 Old 06-19-2008, 04:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clicq View Post

Yep, that's correct, at least until I find evidence to change my mind .

My reasoning for RGB level set to limited is that movies are made at video levels, and games are probably more likely to be made to look good at video levels, so expanding RGB would just be scaling the colors, so it wouldn't make it any better. Then again, if you're dealing with a PC port or a game company that doesn't know any better, the games may be made for PC levels and thus you'd see black crush with RGB set to limited... so I don't really know what the best answer is. I think as long as it matches the setting on the TV, you're 99% of the way there .

Super white does some strange things to the color of white (it looks like it's reducing the brightness of video level white (235) in order to show the range from 236-255 better, but since there's not a lot of content in that range in the first place, you're really just reducing the contrast).

I have no idea what the cross color filter does, which is why I didn't turn it on -- if you know what it does, I'd like to know .



I believe these are more accurate than my 771 post, but truthfully, by the time I switch the settings, I've already forgotten what the old settings look like. At any rate, they should be relatively close, so I'd go with the ones you think are better. I think the 771 settings have more red push to them than these settings, though.

I don't have too many sources to test with (just my computer and my PS3), so I can't say for sure, but I think you'll be OK using the same settings for the PS3 and the upconverting DVD player.

Well more accurate than even 771 is cool considering a lot of people loved 771. And also, the fact there's more 'red push' on 771 isn't a good thing either. You want red. Not under stated, not over saturated. So that's sweet.

If you're not sure if your red looks fine enough man, see if you can't take different setting pics with South Park, looking at an up close full body shot of Cartman, or perhaps Stewie in Family Guy with his red jumper outfit. Probably Stewie's, because they were finicky and I used them to see if my reds were looking alright. You can really tell with his outfit if the reds are spot on, not red enough, or too red to the point where they look pink-ish. Even if you don't find time to take pics, just put on Family Guy or something and check it out. Let us know what you think about your red levels. Remember, it's not really JUST about the calibration, how does it look to you?

And thanks for reassuring me that settings for an upconverting DVD via HDMI and the PS3 should be fine if they are the same. I mean, my settings are the same on the TV I have now. It's an old rear projection LCD but I don't see why it would be THAT much drastically different on this set, ya know? I'm not going to fool around with those settings every time I have to switch a source, heh.
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post #1017 of 3237 Old 06-19-2008, 05:38 PM
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Clicq,

You do some nice work and I thank you for putting in the time and effort, I know it isn't easy. Thanks for saving everyone a couple hundred bucks.

Would you mind showing the results of these settings such as the readouts of the equipment?

Thanks!

Jsutin
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post #1018 of 3237 Old 06-19-2008, 05:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chelhydra View Post

Clicq can you please post the gamma and color diagrams (the good ones - close to D6500) for your latest settings with ps3? thanks man

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Originally Posted by JustinHEMI05 View Post

Clicq,

You do some nice work and I thank you for putting in the time and effort, I know it isn't easy. Thanks for saving everyone a couple hundred bucks.

Would you mind showing the results of these settings such as the readouts of the equipment?

Thanks!

Jsutin

I left my laptop with the calibration data in the office, but I'll post them tomorrow morning when I go in. I didn't think anybody actually looked at the graphs which is why I didn't post them in the first place, but now I know better .
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post #1019 of 3237 Old 06-19-2008, 05:52 PM
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I just want to take the time to thank you again for all your old, both in messaging and in this forum.

As was said by Justin, I know calibrating is not easy... especially when you haven't done it for long and you're learning more and more as you go but... you seem to be on the money man just based on the pics you posted. I can't wait to try the settings myself when my TV comes at the end of the month. Finally, a TV I don't have to feel unsatisfied with for a while after I get it because I'm not sure if the settings I have, are the ones I'll keep!

Thanks for taking the time to do the calibration, posting your graphs, and the most important piece... the end result photos to see what your set is looking like after the settings are applied. And one thing that many won't do... is post settings that are still accurate but not as 'warm' as the 6500 standard... because as we all know, they don't look great to everyone!

Just keep us posted on how you feel about your reds after seeing some family guy or something else that you watch where you 'know' how red is supposed to look
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post #1020 of 3237 Old 06-19-2008, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by mike15619 View Post

I would like to know the same thing about component video settings 5 1 6 Hope you don't mind me calling you a #

Why do you use component ? I use it for the Close Caption But when I get my PS3 I will use HDMI cable because when I watch movies from PS3 the DVDs will have subtitle So I will be Ok there

Hey clicq how about hooking us up with a Great setting for component maybe in Standard and Movie, No rush, Just hurry up, Just teasing with you Your doing a GREAT job making everyone LOVE their 550s more Thanks



I'm interested in this too. Anyone care to answer?
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