Official LNXXA550 Calibration/Settings Thread - Page 37 - AVS Forum
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post #1081 of 3237 Old 06-22-2008, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mzupeman View Post

tjgriz, that's going to be a problem for you. Dynamic settings are so oversaturated in 'brightness' and 'pop', that you'll most likely see every blemish there is. When you calibrate to make things look more natural, and less 'burn your eyes out of your skull' like, you won't see the blemishes nearly as much.

+1

also your source is going to play a large part in the quality of picture. What are you connected to and how?
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post #1082 of 3237 Old 06-22-2008, 09:56 AM
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Clicq,

Thanks for posting the graphics.

Justin
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post #1083 of 3237 Old 06-22-2008, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mzupeman View Post

tjgriz, that's going to be a problem for you. Dynamic settings are so oversaturated in 'brightness' and 'pop', that you'll most likely see every blemish there is. When you calibrate to make things look more natural, and less 'burn your eyes out of your skull' like, you won't see the blemishes nearly as much.

Thanks for the reply mzupe! Is there a setting in this thread that you would suggest to me to lessen the blur? Again, I have the 52" A550.

Thanks again!
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post #1084 of 3237 Old 06-22-2008, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chef jer View Post

+1

also your source is going to play a large part in the quality of picture. What are you connected to and how?

Chef, I am using DirecTV Plus HD DVR HR20 via HDMI in the HDMI1 Port. I receive my networks in HD via DTV.

Is the newer HR21 a better source? I don't know much about the 21 Receiver.

Thanks a lot!
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post #1085 of 3237 Old 06-22-2008, 11:33 AM
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Well I'd follow clicq's settings. Dynamic mode my 'look' pretty, but it can make even live action things look like they're cartoons. Go to the movie theater. Is the picture so bright you have to wince your eyes? Are the skin tones of the actors and actresses red? No. Use clicq's Warm1 settings on page 36 if you want something that's still blue-ish compared to what we're used to.

Calibrating your set is important. Even if you just change your color, brightness, contrast, and sharpness. Because if the picture is too bright, you'll see way too much. If it's not bright enough, you miss out on details. Dynamic is a horrible mode to view anything in. It hurts your eyes, and is the setting that stores will use so you can see the bright picture, and highly over saturated colors so fifty feet away you'll see the set and say 'ohhhh wowwww that looks great'! 8 feet away in your home is a bit different. Over sharpness will bring out a lot of the hidden grain you may not see normally.

Again, I would suggest Warm1 settings by clicq on page 36. He has taken the time to calibrate his set properly at both the Warm2 levels which many are using right now, but he's also done Warm1 to appease the rest of us, as it's a good compromise if you want something with a little more blue to it (AKA, closer to the picture we see on our normal tube TV's right now but still being closer to accurate).

Clicq mentioned this to me in a private message, as I'll relay to you here. Try not to view material back and forth between settings as a 'picture A, now picture B' within seconds of each other. You'll always see the warmer picture as probably less better to your eyes, considering you're viewing dynamic now as it is. Use his settings, and use them for a day or two, and see what you think.
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post #1086 of 3237 Old 06-22-2008, 11:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mzupeman View Post

Well I'd follow clicq's settings. Dynamic mode my 'look' pretty, but it can make even live action things look like they're cartoons. Go to the movie theater. Is the picture so bright you have to wince your eyes? Are the skin tones of the actors and actresses red? No. Use clicq's Warm1 settings on page 36 if you want something that's still blue-ish compared to what we're used to.

Calibrating your set is important. Even if you just change your color, brightness, contrast, and sharpness. Because if the picture is too bright, you'll see way too much. If it's not bright enough, you miss out on details. Dynamic is a horrible mode to view anything in. It hurts your eyes, and is the setting that stores will use so you can see the bright picture, and highly over saturated colors so fifty feet away you'll see the set and say 'ohhhh wowwww that looks great'! 8 feet away in your home is a bit different. Over sharpness will bring out a lot of the hidden grain you may not see normally.

Again, I would suggest Warm1 settings by clicq on page 36. He has taken the time to calibrate his set properly at both the Warm2 levels which many are using right now, but he's also done Warm1 to appease the rest of us, as it's a good compromise if you want something with a little more blue to it (AKA, closer to the picture we see on our normal tube TV's right now but still being closer to accurate).

Clicq mentioned this to me in a private message, as I'll relay to you here. Try not to view material back and forth between settings as a 'picture A, now picture B' within seconds of each other. You'll always see the warmer picture as probably less better to your eyes, considering you're viewing dynamic now as it is. Use his settings, and use them for a day or two, and see what you think.

Thanks again, mzupe! Is Clcq's pg 36 setting for Standard, Movie or Dynamic Mode?
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post #1087 of 3237 Old 06-22-2008, 11:41 AM
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Just a note to everybody that I updated the 995 post with a few additional images from a few other games and another movie trailer to add fuel to the fire on the warm2/normal debate .

Personally, I like the movie mode settings using warm2 from post 995 for watching movies, though honestly, I couldn't tell a difference between the later warm1 settings to my eyes. It's also pretty good for games, but some games do look better with the standard mode settings also in post 995 (that's actually a big reason why I calibrated on movie and on standard, so I could switch between the settings easily). I'm don't put too much faith in game developers to adhere to video standards when making the games.

I do have to point out that my preferences are just that. We all have different eyes and viewing environments, so I'd definitely use whatever settings you like best. Just don't use dynamic, it makes colors look really weird .

I may have said this before, but I think it's worth repeating: the out-of-the box settings for this TV are remarkably good! They may not be accurate, but the RGB levels are very flat, which probably the most important factor in the image quality. It's not like some TVs where you have the RGB levels doing weird things. The colors are a little bit off, but that's because they're more saturated, but lots of people like that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chef jer View Post

clicq - I really like your 995 settings. After trying the new settings for a day I went back to the 995. I have question for you regarding hdmi black level. When switching from low to normal the picture brightens, which can be compensated for by turning down the backlight. If the same quality of calibration can be achieved at normal it would allow for less power consumption due the backlight being lower, or would it throw the graphs off by adding more processing?

Thanks for the feedback, I've actually switched back to the 995 settings myself.

The HDMI black level control should really be set to what your device is outputting. The reason the image looks brighter when you switch from low to normal is because if your device is outputting video levels, black has a value of 16, but when HDMI black level is set to normal, the TV expects black to be 0, so you get a "brighter" black. It would be similar to if you upped the brightness control and reduced contrast. This is kind of bad since you're reducing the range of values that are used for display (i.e. instead of video levels 16-235 taking up 100% of what the display can put out, it's only taking up 86% of the possible levels the display can produce.

All that being said, from what I saw when calibrating my TV, increasing brightness doesn't have much effect on the graphs, decreasing contrast makes the high-end of the RGB levels graph a little more accurate, and backlight doesn't have much effect, so you should be able to do what you propose without altering the graphs significantly. I'm not sure how it affects colors though, because I never adjusted brightness/contrast/backlight before adjusting the color space.
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post #1088 of 3237 Old 06-22-2008, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjgriz View Post

Chef, I am using DirecTV Plus HD DVR HR20 via HDMI in the HDMI1 Port. I receive my networks in HD via DTV.

Is the newer HR21 a better source? I don't know much about the 21 Receiver.

Thanks a lot!

I'm not familiar with your receiver so I will defer to another owner. Make sure your DNR is set to off or low. You may get some blur with sd or with a bad signal. With a good signal and a hd station you should have minimal blur. You may want to call DTV to have them check your signal.
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post #1089 of 3237 Old 06-22-2008, 12:28 PM
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I just got my 46A550 other day... VERY nice TV .. i tryed the Warm1 settings and i really did not enjoy it.. it was WAY to dull looking for me...maybe i just would need to get used to it ? I set it on the Movie mode.. does that make a differnce ? Im really new to this...I tend to like the brighter Richer colors of the standard settings.. maybe like a nother poster im just REALLY used to it ?

On a second note i did use the sound settings from the first post.. TV sounds great now.. Will defently tide me over till i get a new sound system to go with my nice TV :P
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post #1090 of 3237 Old 06-22-2008, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rollett View Post

I just got my 46A550 other day... VERY nice TV .. i tryed the Warm1 settings and i really did not enjoy it.. it was WAY to dull looking for me...maybe i just would need to get used to it ? I set it on the Movie mode.. does that make a differnce ? Im really new to this...I tend to like the brighter Richer colors of the standard settings.. maybe like a nother poster im just REALLY used to it ?

Try clicq's settings in post 995, using the warm2 configuration.
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post #1091 of 3237 Old 06-22-2008, 01:06 PM
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Should i set this in Standard mode or Movie mode or is there no Differnces ?
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post #1092 of 3237 Old 06-22-2008, 01:10 PM
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I switch my mind religiously it seems, but the 995 vs the 1053 (or whatever post that was), does seem to have a bit more red that you can notice in Will Smith's skin color. So perhaps I'll go with those Warm2 settings since the white actually looks whiter with those settings compared to the later settings you posted in 1053, because of that slight red push to the blue in 1053.

I have to decide though how I'm going to handle DVD/Blu-Ray/PS3 coloring on that same HDMI1 input though. I don't want to continually switch b/w Movie and Standard. Perhaps I'll use those Warm2 settings but just Warm1 with them instead... at this point I'm still trying to educate myself based on all I'm seeing and reading here, but I guess from here on in it's just waiting until I can use my TV and trying out the settings myself.

I've told clicq this, but in case anybody wasn't aware, apparantly the site http://www.tweaktv.com/ is going to be calibrating our TV soon. 'End of the month' was said but we can probably expect to see it early-ish July. I'm curious to see what settings they use compared to clicq's excellent looking settings.
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post #1093 of 3237 Old 06-22-2008, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clicq View Post

Just a note to everybody that I updated the 995 post with a few additional images from a few other games and another movie trailer to add fuel to the fire on the warm2/normal debate .


Hey clicq, what does Dynamic Contrast being set to low or higher did to the colors & gamma chart when you were testing the set.

I notice it always brings out the shadow detail without crushing blacks, but makes certain colors look a tad saturated.
Can that be fixed by lowering the RGB gains & contrast for a more accurate picture?
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post #1094 of 3237 Old 06-22-2008, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mzupeman View Post

Well what exactly do you mean by blurriness, or outlined? Do you see outlines around things? That sounds like maybe you have sharpness up too high or something. Does the whole screen look 'blurry'? Or just during motion? What sources do you see this on? One, or all?

Mzupeman,
I believe I'm seeing outlines around images (people's heads mostly) at times...in the next few days I'll keep a better watch and try to jot down when & what I'm watching...I don't think I'm seeing it on HD channels or my DVD's (which are upconverted), both are hooked up to the 550 vis HDMI. It seems to be on my digital channels. I have a Motorola DCH6416 DVR/Cable box (which I Hate). I'm using Clicq's 995 settings, with Sharpness set to 5...Thanks for any help,
Ghpr13

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post #1095 of 3237 Old 06-22-2008, 02:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clicq View Post

Just a note to everybody that I updated the 995 post with a few additional images from a few other games and another movie trailer to add fuel to the fire on the warm2/normal debate .

Personally, I like the movie mode settings using warm2 from post 995 for watching movies, though honestly, I couldn't tell a difference between the later warm1 settings to my eyes. It's also pretty good for games, but some games do look better with the standard mode settings also in post 995 (that's actually a big reason why I calibrated on movie and on standard, so I could switch between the settings easily). I'm don't put too much faith in game developers to adhere to video standards when making the games.

I do have to point out that my preferences are just that. We all have different eyes and viewing environments, so I'd definitely use whatever settings you like best. Just don't use dynamic, it makes colors look really weird .

I may have said this before, but I think it's worth repeating: the out-of-the box settings for this TV are remarkably good! They may not be accurate, but the RGB levels are very flat, which probably the most important factor in the image quality. It's not like some TVs where you have the RGB levels doing weird things. The colors are a little bit off, but that's because they're more saturated, but lots of people like that.



Thanks for the feedback, I've actually switched back to the 995 settings myself.

The HDMI black level control should really be set to what your device is outputting. The reason the image looks brighter when you switch from low to normal is because if your device is outputting video levels, black has a value of 16, but when HDMI black level is set to normal, the TV expects black to be 0, so you get a "brighter" black. It would be similar to if you upped the brightness control and reduced contrast. This is kind of bad since you're reducing the range of values that are used for display (i.e. instead of video levels 16-235 taking up 100% of what the display can put out, it's only taking up 86% of the possible levels the display can produce.

All that being said, from what I saw when calibrating my TV, increasing brightness doesn't have much effect on the graphs, decreasing contrast makes the high-end of the RGB levels graph a little more accurate, and backlight doesn't have much effect, so you should be able to do what you propose without altering the graphs significantly. I'm not sure how it affects colors though, because I never adjusted brightness/contrast/backlight before adjusting the color space.

Thanks again clicq. I have updated the first post on this thread as just a link to your posting so that you can keep it updated and I don't have to keep updating my thread as well. The first post will provide any calibration and informational links in this thread that people can find useful.

Thanks again and keep us posted on any updates or changes you come up with clicq, THANKS!
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post #1096 of 3237 Old 06-22-2008, 02:20 PM
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Regarding post #995

Thank you Clicq. The settings are awesome! I prefer warm1. I spent about 2 hours trying all of the different settings in these posts and I have to admit #995 was the best for me. The colors look natural. These settings worked great with bluray movies played on both my PS3 and Panasonic DMP-BD30K.
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post #1097 of 3237 Old 06-22-2008, 02:29 PM
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So you used the settings meant for Warm2 from post 995, and just warmed Warm1 instead? I'm thinking of doing that myself. I know it makes colors look less 'accurate'... but that's fine by me as long as I don't see greenish yellow or pinkish reds or anything like that!
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post #1098 of 3237 Old 06-22-2008, 02:37 PM
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oh btw clicq, what was the final contrast ratio you got when you did the post 995 calibration?
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post #1099 of 3237 Old 06-22-2008, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wtfer View Post

Hey clicq, what does Dynamic Contrast being set to low or higher did to the colors & gamma chart when you were testing the set.

I notice it always brings out the shadow detail without crushing blacks, but makes certain colors look a tad saturated.
Can that be fixed by lowering the RGB gains & contrast for a more accurate picture?

Quote:
Originally Posted by wtfer View Post

oh btw clicq, what was the final contrast ratio you got when you did the post 995 calibration?

I didn't try to calibrate with dynamic contrast on, though I think it would be rather difficult to do so, being that the test patterns look nothing like real images (so dynamic contrast wouldn't work the same way). You might be able to address the oversaturation of colors by reducing contrast a bit, but I'm not entirely sure.

The final contrast ratio is a bit tricky to report. I got about 1500:1, but my meter is a bit inaccurate at low luminance values (i.e. it's not so good at measuring black values). If I increase the backlight, as in the 1053 settings, I get about 2600:1, so I wouldn't put much trust in the numbers.
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post #1100 of 3237 Old 06-22-2008, 04:42 PM
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clicq - I notice with the 771 settings you have energy saving set to off and with the 995 it is set to medium. What effect does energy savings have in regards to calibration? Does it just dim the tv resulting in the higher backlight setting w/ the 995 vs the 771 or does it also effect color?
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post #1101 of 3237 Old 06-22-2008, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chef jer View Post

clicq - I notice with the 771 settings you have energy saving set to off and with the 995 it is set to medium. What effect does energy savings have in regards to calibration? Does it just dim the tv resulting in the higher backlight setting w/ the 995 vs the 771 or does it also effect color?

You're correct, it just dims the TV so you have to turn up the backlight. I ran a test between energy saving set to medium and the equivalent backlight setting with energy saving off, and there was no real change in my measurements.

For some reason, despite the light output being the same, having energy saver on makes the TV run somewhat cooler (I don't have A/C in my apartment, and on that particular day the temperature was near 90), though perhaps it's all in my head (no thermometer to say for sure). If you need higher light output, it's fine to turn energy saver to off.
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post #1102 of 3237 Old 06-22-2008, 06:14 PM
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Energy Saver definitely reduces the TV's heat output. There's a noticeable difference in ambient temperature between having it off and setting it on medium. The heat this set generates under normal conditions is ridiculous, especially in conjunction with my PS3.
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post #1103 of 3237 Old 06-22-2008, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clicq View Post

You're correct, it just dims the TV so you have to turn up the backlight. I ran a test between energy saving set to medium and the equivalent backlight setting with energy saving off, and there was no real change in my measurements.

For some reason, despite the light output being the same, having energy saver on makes the TV run somewhat cooler (I don't have A/C in my apartment, and on that particular day the temperature was near 90), though perhaps it's all in my head (no thermometer to say for sure). If you need higher light output, it's fine to turn energy saver to off.

I really like the 995 settings but i have a really bright room and find that energy savings @ medium during the day makes the picture real dark. I'm glad to hear that adjusting energy save won't impact the picture

Thank you clicq - you've been a great help and have IMO done a great job with the calibrations. IMO you've progressed every step along the way, please keep us updated as you tweak them.
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post #1104 of 3237 Old 06-22-2008, 07:15 PM
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clicq,

the 995 settings - warm 2 are magnificent. I find them the best, for some reason they look better (maybe it is a placebo effect) than the new ones with warm 1.

So, 995 all the way!!

Thanks, clicq!
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post #1105 of 3237 Old 06-22-2008, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clicq View Post

Alright, the girlfriend finally finished MGS4, so I got some time to play a bit more with the settings. I changed the settings on my PS3 to disable superwhite mode, because I found it was just making video level white less white. (As a reminder, my PS3 is hooked up via HDMI into HDMI1.)

In these settings, I tried to tone down the red a bit but still keep everything as accurate as I could. These settings should be appropriate for any HD device connected through HDMI except for possibly PCs which should use my previous settings.

Most accurate settings
(This with the mode at movie)
Backlight = 6
Contrast = 85
Brightness = 49
Sharpness = 0
Color = 50
Tint = G50/R50

DETAILED SETTINGS

Black Adjust = Off
Dynamic Contrast = Off
Gamma = 0
Color Space = Custom
Red: R33 - G0 - B0
Green: R18 - G52 - B0
Blue: R11 - G0 - B51
Yellow: R49 - G53 - B0
Cyan: R22 - G46 - B56
Magenta: R37 - G0 - B43
Flesh Tone = 0
Edge Enhancement = Off
Xycc = Off

WHITE BALANCE

R-Offset = 26
G-Offset = 25
B-Offset = 22
R-Gain = 30
G-Gain = 25
B-Gain = 25

PICTURE OPTIONS

Color Tone = Warm 2
Digital N/R = Off
HDMI Black Level = Low (actually it's disabled when playing Blu-ray)
Film Mode = off (disabled)
Blue Mode = Off

Energy Saving = Medium
Entertainment modes = Off

Graphs

RGB Levels, with error indicated by the magenta line on the bottom. Below 3 is the target.


Luminance curve. It's pretty close to reference, though blue is a little low.


Gamma curve. It's close to the reference of 2.22, though it drops off a bit at the high end, but I can't seem to do anything to fix that.


CIE color diagram. Note that green and red are slightly off still; I hope to address that this evening.

Settings that are not as "warm"
Some people feel that my settings are a bit too warm. If you think the above settings are a bit too warm, you can try these settings. I obtained these settings by calibrating to a cooler whitepoint (D75 instead of D65). Note that although these settings are based off "standard", the white balance settings are set to make it closer to what "warm1" would look like instead of normal (note the extreme value of B-gain). I did this so I could easily switch between my settings above and these settings.

Note that I was too lazy to generate color space settings for this mode, partly because you can only have 1 custom color space per input, so I would have lost the settings I made above. You can set it to Auto or use the custom settings above, depending on your preference.

The best settings should be those above; this is presented as an alternative to those that would prefer a cooler picture. I did not spend as much time getting these settings as the ones above, so they are likely to have some issues! But if I get enough feedback, I may go back and calibrate these settings "correctly" .

Start with "Standard" mode
Backlight = 5
Contrast = 85
Brightness = 49
Sharpness = 0
Color = 50
Tint = G50/R50

DETAILED SETTINGS

Black Adjust = Off
Dynamic Contrast = Off
Gamma = 0
Color Space = Auto (or set it to custom above)
Flesh Tone = 0
Edge Enhancement = Off
Xycc = Off

WHITE BALANCE

R-Offset = 25
G-Offset = 25
B-Offset = 26
R-Gain = 37
G-Gain = 25
B-Gain = 0

PICTURE OPTIONS

Color Tone = Normal
Digital N/R = Off
HDMI Black Level = Low (actually it's disabled when playing Blu-ray)
Film Mode = off (disabled)
Blue Mode = Off

Energy Saving = Medium
Entertainment modes = Off


Sample Pictures
I took a few sample pictures to show roughly what the settings look like on my TV. You have to consider when looking at these pictures that my camera may not be that great, that the exposure probably changes between pictures, but I did fix white balance at "shade" on my camera because it most closely matched what I see. These pictures may not be exactly what you see in real life, but you can compare between them.

I've tried to capture a wide range of scenes. Some of the scenes you can tell a definite difference, some scenes you can't; this mirrors what you'd experience in real life.

First image: b&w scene from Wall-E trailer on the Playstation Store:

First set of settings above


Second set of settings above


Second set of settings above, but using cool2 instead of normal

Second image: a scene from the 2nd Hancock trailer:

First set of settings above.


Second set of settings above.


Dynamic-based "Normal" color mode, without altering the white balance (I got this by changing the color tone in dynamic mode to normal and turning off as much processing as I could, so no DNIe and sharpness was set to 0, but detailed settings aren't available so there are likely some processing things still stuck on).

Third image: beginning of a race in the GRID demo. I actually have no idea what it's supposed to look like, for reference here's a screenshot: http://www.gamespot.com/pages/image_...d=939159&img=2

First set of settings above


Second set of settings above


Dynamic-based "Normal" color mode, without altering the white balance.


Game mode

Fourth image: Scene from the Devil May Cry 4 demo on the PS3

First set of settings above


Second set of settings above


Dynamic-based normal mode

Fifth image: Ninja Gaiden Sigma demo on the PS3

First set of settings above


Second set of settings above


Dynamic-based normal mode

Sixth image: Scene from about the middle of the new Narnia trailer

First set of settings above


Second set of settings above


Dynamic-based normal mode. I think dynamic is doing some weird processing to the grass; note how some of the grass looks neon green.

Seventh image: Near the end of the Narnia trailer

First set of settings above


Second set of settings above


Dynamic-based normal.

Things you can change:
Definitely set the brightness, contrast, and backlight settings to your viewing environment and preferences.

Changing the backlight or switching the energy saving mode does not affect the accuracy of the picture, so you can set it as you like. Altering the brightness and contrast doesn't do much except alter the gamma slightly.

Changing the color tone setting from warm 2 to anything else changes the mix of colors, as you might expect, but it does not change the shape of the levels (i.e. it's ok to change it if you don't care about the color of white being accurate).

If you think blues are too purple, change the color space settings and reduce the value of red and increase the value of blue to about 60. The color is accurate according to my meter, but who knows . I watched some underwater scenes from Apple's Quicktime gallery and it looked alright to me.

If you think you're losing shadow detail, you can try to increase the gamma, but it will tend to wash out the image. Some games may need this though.

If you like a bit more "pop", you'll probably want to either increase the backlight or turn off energy saver, and maybe experiment with dynamic contrast and energy saver set to auto. You'll probably like the second set of settings a little better too.

As always, comments/criticisms are welcomed .

UPDATE: I have attached a file with the ColorHCFR files, if anybody wants to take a look. In the zip file, the calibrated file is the one with the date after it.

UPDATE: There are some settings based off warm1 instead of warm2 in this post.


Awesome settings. I used the first set. I increased sharpness to 15, brightness to 60, backlight to 8 and set energy saving to low. This is more to my liking. Give it a try and let me know what you guys think.
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post #1106 of 3237 Old 06-22-2008, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clicq View Post

You're correct, it just dims the TV so you have to turn up the backlight. I ran a test between energy saving set to medium and the equivalent backlight setting with energy saving off, and there was no real change in my measurements.

For some reason, despite the light output being the same, having energy saver on makes the TV run somewhat cooler (I don't have A/C in my apartment, and on that particular day the temperature was near 90), though perhaps it's all in my head (no thermometer to say for sure). If you need higher light output, it's fine to turn energy saver to off.

Speaking of which, any reason why you picked HDMI Black Level Low?
Couldn't you just lower the Brightness or Gamma to compensate?
I noticed turning up the Brightness over 43 caused a slight increase in the overall lightness of the black color. Having the brightness at 50 tends to have wash out the blacks by a bit.
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post #1107 of 3237 Old 06-23-2008, 12:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajoyce View Post

Awesome settings. I used the first set. I increased sharpness to 15, brightness to 60, backlight to 8 and set energy saving to low. This is more to my liking. Give it a try and let me know what you guys think.

Looks a little strange to me. Honestly, I don't see the problem with clicq's settings; perfect brightness, accurate colors, and the TV doesn't act as a space heater. (Seriously, even my LN32 was raising ambient temperature with energy saver set to off.)

By the way, did you have to quote his entire post? I don't think anyone wants to scroll through all that again...
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post #1108 of 3237 Old 06-23-2008, 05:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wtfer View Post

Speaking of which, any reason why you picked HDMI Black Level Low?
Couldn't you just lower the Brightness or Gamma to compensate?
I noticed turning up the Brightness over 43 caused a slight increase in the overall lightness of the black color. Having the brightness at 50 tends to have wash out the blacks by a bit.

I set the HDMI black level according to what my device (a PS3) is set to (RGB limited). If your question is why did I set the PS3 to that, well it's because I figure that since game consoles have been connected to TVs forever, they should be designed to use video levels, and setting it to RGB full would just cause the PS3 to scale the range of the image. Then again, for all I know, maybe internally it's using RGB full and then scaling the range at the end... I just want to pick whatever option results in the least extra processing.

If you're asking why I didn't set HDMI black level to normal when the device is outputting what is HDMI black level low and then compensating with brightness and contrast, it's because by doing so, you're first compressing the range and then trying to expand it with the brightness and contrast controls.

And I guess I should point out that Samsung's terminology is confusing; HDMI black level low is what is normally output by video devices, and HDMI black level normal is PC level output.
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post #1109 of 3237 Old 06-23-2008, 07:54 AM
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clicq,

I think Energy Saves on Mediaum is an overkill ) Have you experimented with Energy Saving Auto? I just did yesterday, and I can definitely see my LCD being cool as opposed to hot, also, the picture is much more balanced as far as brightness compared to medium. backlight is still on 6.
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post #1110 of 3237 Old 06-23-2008, 08:25 AM
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clicq,

I think Energy Saves on Mediaum is an overkill ) Have you experimented with Energy Saving Auto? I just did yesterday, and I can definitely see my LCD being cool as opposed to hot, also, the picture is much more balanced as far as brightness compared to medium. backlight is still on 6.

AFAIK energy saving to auto only works in dynamic mode with dnie enabled.
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