Official Sony KDL-xxV5100 Thread - Page 25 - AVS Forum
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post #721 of 4672 Old 06-16-2009, 07:45 PM
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does the KDL-46V5100 have picture in picture feature. I took a look at the manual but there's no mention. i'm putting my money on no but i can always hope.
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post #722 of 4672 Old 06-17-2009, 06:40 AM
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No, I don't see any PIP for this TV and the remote does not have anything regarding it either.

I labeled all my TV stations. It took a while but it's nice to see their title in the upper right of the screen when I click on them. Does anyone know if the labels will all get deleted if I do another autoprogram (to search for new stations)? I'm reluctant to try because I'd be unhappy if I lost all that work. On the other hand, if my cable company comes out with new channels...or rearranges them...I'd like to get them.

The reason this came up is just this morning my cable company moved the SciFi channel. Fortunately, there was a notice on the old channel directing you to the new location but what if they add new channels or provide more signals? I might not know about it and miss something. Also, I notice a lot of .x channels that we never used to get, i.e. 72.1, 72.2, 72.3, etc. The local ABC, NBC, Fox, and CBS are all on these as the HD signal.
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post #723 of 4672 Old 06-17-2009, 08:40 AM
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So, in my earlier post I mentioned I ordered a 46v5100 from Dell and the box looked opened, missing manuals, weird application of plastic, etc. So I ordered a replacement and it came last night.

I notice that on really dark scenes there's some unevenness in brightness. On an all black screen there are about 8 distinct areas that are brighter, but only 5 or so I'd call obvious and 3 that routinely show up on dark scenes in actual shows/movies. On a normally well-lit scene, I wouldn't notice it at all. Dark scenes, the upper right and upper left offer a little bit of bleed that I probably would be ok with. But the bottom half just off to the left one is BAD. I was watching a scene where the guy had a dark blue shirt on and his shoulder looked significantly washed out. I pointed it out to my wife who thought it was a reflection spot in the camera from a window that was over his shoulder.

Luckily, I just got the shipping label to send the old one back and I haven't even bothered plugging that one in. I'm thinking I should and see if the problems on that one are as bad. I tried turning the backlight down from the default 8 to 3 and it didn't seem to help much on an all black screen, but I didn't have much time to test it on normal TV viewing after that because it was late.

I'm thinking I should pay a bit more for future purchases and enjoy the return protections of my local Costco. Gonna see if I can get a good picture of it tonight.
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post #724 of 4672 Old 06-18-2009, 06:28 AM
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Yesterday I did an online chat with Sony through their customer support. Pretty impressive. It was easy, free and the person at the other end seemed genuinely interested in helping.

I asked them about the garbled sound I sometimes get when changing channels. I explained that it isn't every time but often enough to be annoying. After detailing my input sources and elminating certain possible causes she had me do a complete "start over" going back to square one in reprogramming the TV. You remember - the 30 minute autoprogramming thing. She said that if that didn't solve the problem that I should unplug the power cord, wait a minute and then plug it back in.

So far, I've not had to do the power restart...but I've only watched TV for a short while so can't really tell if the start over has solved the problem or not.

Is anyone else experiencing the garbled sound?

BTW, I've not seen anything resembling flashlights and have had the TV for more than a month now.
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post #725 of 4672 Old 06-18-2009, 08:05 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xchair View Post

Traven,

When I first turned on my set I had two things. Flashlights in the upper right and left and a large whitish spot of clouding near center bottom. Over a few weeks the clouding actually went away. The flashlights remained. Recently I grabbed a screw driver and tightened the screws behind the frame upper left and right and in greatly lessened the flashlight effect.[IMG]http://***************/9/P/i.jpg[/IMG][IMG]http://***************/9/F/i.jpg[/IMG][IMG]http://***************/9/R/i.jpg[/IMG]

Hmm this is actually a good idea..How bad was the clouding before?
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post #726 of 4672 Old 06-18-2009, 08:19 AM
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So I watched last night and it seemed better, still very much visible and annoying in those momentary completely black screens between but a little better on dark scenes. I did see the lower left of center cloud a couple times, but I was also looking for it. Upper right of center seemed a little worse tonight than last night.

I've included a picture, it's not the sharpest because I'm holding the camera by hand, but it's pretty representative of an all black screen. I got this by pausing my TiVo and advancing to a black frame and taking a picture. The auto dim dimmed the screen a little bit (can't find a thumbdrive that works to update it yet). The greenish distortion on the left and right is from the TiVo encoding, not the TV itself. The bright blobs, those are the TV. It's fairly representative of how it looks completely black, except I feel like the lower left of center cloud is worse than the pic portrays.

I still haven't turned on the opened TV that I'm shipping back.
LL
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post #727 of 4672 Old 06-18-2009, 09:23 AM
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I took the plunge and got the 40" V5100 last night. Hooked it up and, for now, used Mike's settings from his 52" as a starting point for my calibration efforts and it appears to look a LOT better than my old 1024x768 Dell W4201 Plasma. Everything looks better -- FIOS (both HD and SD programming), the PS3, my media center PC, etc.

I've got everything connected with HDMI right now except for the media center PC, which is using the VGA input. Resolution is set to 1920x1080 on the computer. Should I get a DVI to HDMI adapter and connect with HDMI instead? Any good reason to do that or not do that? I do notice that with VGA my burned DVD's don't look so great when played through Vista Media Center onto the new V5100. I think part of the reason is that you can't mess with a lot of the picture settings on the V5100 in VGA mode. Would I be able to if I connected with HDMI, or would it recognize it's a computer and still lock me out of those picture settings?

Anyone think that I should still shell out for a copy of DVE on blu-ray? What would it give me picture wise that all of Mike's hard work would not? Would I just end up with the same picture settings as Mike anyways? Why or why not? BTW -- thank you Mike for tweaking your settings all the time and posting the latest and greatest settings!

Also, since I'm new to the LCD world, what should I be aware of compared to what I remember about Plasma systems? With Plasma, I had to worry about setting the contrast too high to prevent burn-in, etc. Any 'warnings' to an LCD newbie of what to do / not do to my Plasma?

ps... I thought I had the new firmware "out of the box" because I saw the setting for adv. contrast in the picture settings. But then I saw terrible dimming effects with it still on. So I went and looked at the software version on the TV and it was (I believe) 3.35 or something like that while the firmware on the Sony website was (as I remember) 3.8? So I grabbed a USB stick and did the firmware upgrade. Had NO problems and the dimming effects were gone after the firmware upgrade! So don't think you have the latest firmware JUST because you see the option for adv. contract in your picture menu!

Thanks!
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post #728 of 4672 Old 06-18-2009, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Traven View Post

So I watched last night and it seemed better, still very much visible and annoying in those momentary completely black screens between but a little better on dark scenes. I did see the lower left of center cloud a couple times, but I was also looking for it. Upper right of center seemed a little worse tonight than last night.

I've included a picture, it's not the sharpest because I'm holding the camera by hand, but it's pretty representative of an all black screen. I got this by pausing my TiVo and advancing to a black frame and taking a picture. The auto dim dimmed the screen a little bit (can't find a thumbdrive that works to update it yet). The greenish distortion on the left and right is from the TiVo encoding, not the TV itself. The bright blobs, those are the TV. It's fairly representative of how it looks completely black, except I feel like the lower left of center cloud is worse than the pic portrays.

I still haven't turned on the opened TV that I'm shipping back.

I can tell you this. If my screen looked like, I'd kick the screen in and throw it thru sonys window. Get another imo.

My 52 looks nothing like that. There is one spot similar looking to yours but mine would not a completely dark room to see it. I always have a 25w bias light on in the room.

Skier-Im glad that the settings helped you and you are most welcome . If it is 25 dollars important to you than I would say yes get a disc and take a look. My lighting and enviroment isnt yours also mine is a different set so I would be willing to bet that it would come out different.

Also Mine is calibrated with DVE but also slight tweaking to what looks good to me.

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post #729 of 4672 Old 06-18-2009, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Traven View Post

So I watched last night and it seemed better, still very much visible and annoying in those momentary completely black screens between but a little better on dark scenes. I did see the lower left of center cloud a couple times, but I was also looking for it. Upper right of center seemed a little worse tonight than last night.

I've included a picture, it's not the sharpest because I'm holding the camera by hand, but it's pretty representative of an all black screen. I got this by pausing my TiVo and advancing to a black frame and taking a picture. The auto dim dimmed the screen a little bit (can't find a thumbdrive that works to update it yet). The greenish distortion on the left and right is from the TiVo encoding, not the TV itself. The bright blobs, those are the TV. It's fairly representative of how it looks completely black, except I feel like the lower left of center cloud is worse than the pic portrays.

I still haven't turned on the opened TV that I'm shipping back.

Send that set back!! That screen is horrible. I have a 46 v5100 that has extremely, and I mean extremely faint flashlighting in upper corners. I have never seen them while watching anything, only a couple times on a completely black screen. Have not seen any clouding or any other problems. I will try Xchair's solution and see if it gets rid of flashlights completely.
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post #730 of 4672 Old 06-18-2009, 11:35 AM
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I can't believe the heat these sets generate...
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post #731 of 4672 Old 06-18-2009, 01:57 PM
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Yeah, all these sets today are hot. This morning I walked by the TV's at Walmart and it was like a blast furnace. You had to stand about six feet away not to feel the heat. Should make our heating bills lower this winter.
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post #732 of 4672 Old 06-18-2009, 02:07 PM
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That would be fine but i live in Florida!
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post #733 of 4672 Old 06-18-2009, 04:30 PM
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And perhaps it is just my enthrallment with my 52 but it seems that the screen has gotten better image wise after a period of time. Is it possible for LCD's to improve after a burn in period?

I always always thought this myself. I own 2 LCD PC monitors and 3 LCD TV's in house and I swear after an amount of time ...(less than plasma burn in time) the LCD picture does get better.

Though this is not supposed to be the case.

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post #734 of 4672 Old 06-18-2009, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by serialmike View Post

And perhaps it is just my enthrallment with my 52 but it seems that the screen has gotten better image wise after a period of time. Is it possible for LCD's to improve after a burn in period?

This quote was not me

I always always thought this myself. I own 2 LCD PC monitors and 3 LCD TV's in house and I swear after an amount of time ...(less than plasma burn in time) the LCD picture does get better.

Though this is not supposed to be the case.

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post #735 of 4672 Old 06-18-2009, 07:20 PM
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Ok, so I get home tonight and I break out the first TV Dell sent and I do the Display, 5, + Vol, Power thing to get the diagnostic area and I see 00000H meaning that, although the box had still probably been opened before I got it, that it was new. So I hooked up my TiVo and paused on a black screen and all was good. Perfectly 100% uniform? No, there was some ever-so-slight brightness to the left but not even near the realm of the other one. I'm going to call Dell and tell them I'll just keep the first set, slap the prepaid label on the cloudy one and be done with it. My wife thinks I'm crazy, but I feel much more at peace with my $1300 purchase now. Thanks to the people who gave me advice. Now I'm off to enjoy my new TV.
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post #736 of 4672 Old 06-19-2009, 12:41 PM
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I'm replacing a kdl-46v3000 with this set, can I use my same settings as a starting point?
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post #737 of 4672 Old 06-19-2009, 12:55 PM
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New here. Pardon me if the questions have been answered already. I skimmed through a few of the pages but not many.

I will be setting my 52v5100 up in a couple weeks. I've been reading up on motionflow and cinemotion.
1. What's the difference?
2. Are they automatically turned on?
3. Are the settings low, medium, high? What's the best?
4. What's the best for playing PS3, watching TV, etc..? Thanks in advance
5. I bought my TV May 17.. does it come with the updated firmware, or do i need to do it myself? I'm scared to do it and mess up the TV.
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post #738 of 4672 Old 06-19-2009, 01:37 PM
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Just a thought since I'm in my 30 day return period and am in the "did I make the right choice" questioning period.

I notice that most of us are turning off many of the advanced features (like the 120hz motion option, etc.) that seem to differentiate this model from the S series.

So, what am I gaining with this LCD over the much cheaper cost S series?

Also, what am I missing in terms of picture quality compared to spending another $800 or so to get the XBR9?

Thanks!
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post #739 of 4672 Old 06-19-2009, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skierrob View Post

Just a thought since I'm in my 30 day return period and am in the "did I make the right choice" questioning period.

I notice that most of us are turning off many of the advanced features (like the 120hz motion option, etc.) that seem to differentiate this model from the S series.

So, what am I gaining with this LCD over the much cheaper cost S series?

Also, what am I missing in terms of picture quality compared to spending another $800 or so to get the XBR9?

Thanks!


I dont know all the things the z has over the s but I can tell you the most important thing.

The Z, XBR8 and 9 have a 3800:1 static contrast ratio. That is the ratio of the screen. Anything else is ACE. Which many of you only use low if at all.

The S has a very low 3000:1 This is low enough almost half of the v series, that blacks will look very grey compared to the v series.

The V however has a very high 5000:1 This provides very very dark darks. The SXRD sets which have excellent black level by mosst peoples standards have the same 5000:1 static ratio but have a lower dynamic rating than the V. Hence why the V series looks way better than the SXRD sets and most everyone coming form one is very happy like me

Even the samsungs are only rated at 3800:1 this is 25 percent lower rating than the 52v5100 and it is exactly why the V series has better black level output than all the samsung sets and from what I have seen all the sonys out there right now. The sammies have a higher dynamic contrast ratio becausze the sets a re brighter not because the black level is lower.

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post #740 of 4672 Old 06-19-2009, 05:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by serialmike View Post

I dont know all the things the z has over the s but I can tell you the most important thing.

The Z, XBR8 and 9 have a 3800:1 static contrast ratio. That is the ratio of the screen. Anything else is ACE. Which many of you only use low if at all.

The S has a very low 3000:1 This is low enough almost half of the v series, that blacks will look very grey compared to the v series.

The V however has a very high 5000:1 This provides very very dark darks. The SXRD sets which have excellent black level by mosst peoples standards have the same 5000:1 static ratio but have a lower dynamic rating than the V. Hence why the V series looks way better than the SXRD sets and most everyone coming form one is very happy like me

Even the samsungs are only rated at 3800:1 this is 25 percent lower rating than the 52v5100 and it is exactly why the V series has better black level output than all the samsung sets and from what I have seen all the sonys out there right now. The sammies have a higher dynamic contrast ratio becausze the sets a re brighter not because the black level is lower.

So, would you not entertain the thought of trading your 52V for a 10-bit 52XBR8?
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post #741 of 4672 Old 06-19-2009, 06:25 PM
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new CNET review of the V5100 gives 7.0's and 3.5 stars, with some good comments --

Quote:
Originally Posted by new cnet review of v5100 View Post


The good:
Produces relatively deep black levels; accurate color in bright areas; solid dejudder processing in Standard mode; numerous picture controls; plenty of connectivity with four HDMI, two component-video and one PC input.

The bad:
Dark areas tinged bluish; must engage dejudder to enable antiblur; pedestrian design; less uniform screen.

The bottom line:
The commendable picture quality of Sony's entry-level 120Hz-equipped LCD makes it a very good value.

http://reviews.cnet.com/flat-panel-t...-33485094.html

what do you think?

TVbc

iirc afaik fwiw imo
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post #742 of 4672 Old 06-19-2009, 06:52 PM
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New here. Pardon me if the questions have been answered already. I skimmed through a few of the pages but not many.

I will be setting my 52v5100 up in a couple weeks. I've been reading up on motionflow and cinemotion.
1. What's the difference?
2. Are they automatically turned on?
3. Are the settings low, medium, high? What's the best?
4. What's the best for playing PS3, watching TV, etc..? Thanks in advance
5. I bought my TV May 17.. does it come with the updated firmware, or do i need to do it myself? I'm scared to do it and mess up the TV.
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post #743 of 4672 Old 06-19-2009, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuc Tu View Post

So, would you not entertain the thought of trading your 52V for a 10-bit 52XBR8?

First, They are not a fair comparison as a 55xbr8 is nearly 3k more.

However considering I did view the XBR8 in store and had wifes permission to purchase whichever set I wanted I did indeed choose this 52V.

I did not like the haloing around objects in dark areas. Not natural and highly annoying to me.

10 bit means nothing there is no 10 bit source. Its a dont care at this point to me. There is no gradiants of color unless its a poor source and thats not the sets fault.

IMO maybe you ccan make arguements that overall the XBR8 is better. There is no way you will ever convince me its around 3k better.

Edit- Oh and for the review. Not sure what he means by the black level. This set has tested at .09 cd/m2 which is the best of any LCD ever tested to this point anywhere.

And if you read he pretty much backs up my opinion of image quality.

"Sony's relatively entry-level KDL-V5100 series exhibited very good picture quality for the price, and in some ways it bested the company's significantly more expensive, albeit feature-laden, XBR9 model (in fact, the two received the same score in this subcategory)"

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post #744 of 4672 Old 06-19-2009, 11:55 PM
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Hey, guys. Just wondering if anyone could comment on input lag (the time in between pressing a button on a game controller and seeing the action on screen). I know some people have said gaming has been good, but there are users in the Samsung B650/B750 threads that say the same thing without Game Mode on, yet that set has around 120ms of input lag without Game Mode on. Everybody is susceptible to it differently, so it makes sense. I usually start to notice things around the 30-40ms mark. If anyone has Rock Band or Guitar Hero, you can use a built in application to gauge input lag. Better yet, there are programs available to detect how much lag there is when hooking up a CRT monitor and HDTV at the same time.

Also, how is motion blur both in and out of Game Mode? I noticed in Game Mode that Motion Flow is turned off, which chops the 900 or so lines of resolution down to about 400. If the input lag is low enough that Game Mode is not needed, that's great. But if it is needed, I'd like to know if noticeable motion blur is introduced. Cheers, guys!

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post #745 of 4672 Old 06-20-2009, 05:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by serialmike View Post

First, They are not a fair comparison as a 55xbr8 is nearly 3k more.

However considering I did view the XBR8 in store and had wifes permission to purchase whichever set I wanted I did indeed choose this 52V.

I did not like the haloing around objects in dark areas. Not natural and highly annoying to me.

10 bit means nothing there is no 10 bit source. Its a dont care at this point to me. There is no gradiants of color unless its a poor source and thats not the sets fault.

IMO maybe you ccan make arguements that overall the XBR8 is better. There is no way you will ever convince me its around 3k better.

Edit- Oh and for the review. Not sure what he means by the black level. This set has tested at .09 cd/m2 which is the best of any LCD ever tested to this point anywhere.

And if you read he pretty much backs up my opinion of image quality.

"Sony's relatively entry-level KDL-V5100 series exhibited very good picture quality for the price, and in some ways it bested the company's significantly more expensive, albeit feature-laden, XBR9 model (in fact, the two received the same score in this subcategory)"




At one point, my local retailer had the 52 XBR8 for $2200 (one day sale), and I've been whimpering over the lost purchase ever since I saw the 52V come out at the same price.

It's ironic, however, that the 52 XBR8 seems a rare set, but I'm glad to not be missing anything with my V...
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post #746 of 4672 Old 06-20-2009, 05:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TVbc View Post

new CNET review of the V5100 gives 7.0's and 3.5 stars, with some good comments --



http://reviews.cnet.com/flat-panel-t...-33485094.html

what do you think?

TVbc


Another thing I have with his review is this. I wnet up and down DVE with this set and I turned off all the goodies like he did but after a while I realized a few things.

The set actually needs to be set up with noise reduction on and live color and Ace etc needs to be on imo.I am one that usually turns all this stuff off but after viewing the picture in my eye is more correct this way.

Also I noticed that I needed to adjust the brightness by eye as The auto adjusting of this set does not allow you to use a pattern properly. I believe I stated this before.

The review leads you to believe the set isnt that great at 3.5 but the set was knocked down because of looks, and features among other things.

The image quality which is all I want from a set was as good as an sony in the linup this yr even by his own admission. Now remember the top sony has beaten the image quality of the top samsung according to him.

IF your looking for one of the best images by an LCD this one has it.

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post #747 of 4672 Old 06-20-2009, 07:10 AM
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I have problems with a review that criticises the external appearance of the set itself. While perhaps a factor when the set is turned off, it means nothing while one is focused on the content.

On speaker placement: I, for one, want the speakers facing forward. Except for the low audio frequencies, which are omnidirectional, directing the sound anywhere other than at the listener's position degrades the quality of sound reproduction.

Still waiting for delivery!
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post #748 of 4672 Old 06-20-2009, 07:16 AM
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CNET'S CALIBRATION SETTINGS:
http://news.cnet.com/8301-17938_105-9996461-1.html

Picture Mode: Cinema
Backlight: Min
Picture: 81
Brightness: 53
Color: 40
Hue: R1
Color Temperature: Warm
Sharpness: Min
Noise Reduction: Off
Adv. Contrast Enhancer: Off
Gamma: Low
Clear White: Off
Live Color: Off

-- Advanced Settings menu
CineMotion: Auto 1
Game Mode: Off
Motionflow: Off

-- White Balance menu
R-Gain: -5
G-Gain: -4
B-Gain: -11
R-Bias: -5
G-Bias: 2
B-Bias: 2

--Setup menu;
Backlight: On
PC Power Management: Off
Light Sensor: Off
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post #749 of 4672 Old 06-20-2009, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amdriven2liv View Post

CNET'S CALIBRATION SETTINGS:
http://news.cnet.com/8301-17938_105-9996461-1.html

Picture Mode: Cinema
Backlight: Min
Picture: 81
Brightness: 53
Color: 40
Hue: R1
Color Temperature: Warm
Sharpness: Min
Noise Reduction: Off
Adv. Contrast Enhancer: Off
Gamma: Low
Clear White: Off
Live Color: Off

-- Advanced Settings menu
CineMotion: Auto 1
Game Mode: Off
Motionflow: Off

-- White Balance menu
R-Gain: -5
G-Gain: -4
B-Gain: -11
R-Bias: -5
G-Bias: 2
B-Bias: 2

--Setup menu;
Backlight: On
PC Power Management: Off
Light Sensor: Off


While I completely understand what he was trying to do. Turning off all the features because most of the time they mess up the image. These settings imo are completely wrong for this set. Each set should have its features judged individually. He judges the asthetics and the gadgets individually but doesn't judge the picture quality settings. He simply turns them off and forgets them.

I am one that used to believe that you turn off the brand specific settings in the adjustments but thats simply not how it works nowadays. Things are engineered to a fine science now. If they are there they do something and have a use imo.

The ACE off and the Noise reduction off are bad choices for this set. These settings tell me that he just turns features off and then calibrates never bothering to see if the settings actually are better on.

These settings at best are for a pitch black room because thats the only way you would want the backlight at min.

These settings would be unwatchable for me. The lack of contrast with ACE off is horrid combined with the brightness actually turned up ...UHG. I know most of the calibrators around here would never dream of ACE on but Will and I both used DVE and went thru tweak after tweak and agreed ACE at low at least and I believe he settled on med as did I. I doubt we were both wrong.

This is where he is incorrect. The brightness doesnt need to be turned up to see details if ACE is on because the set corrects the image for proper shadow detail along with blacker blacks with ACE on. Along with Auto Dim correcting to get the proper detail. Stop fighting auto dim and enjoy it as a great feature now that it works properly

The Sharpness pattern on DVE with noise reduction on provides a much sharper image without any added noise and distortion than with noise reduction off. This also become painfull obvious on sports casts where they use graphics with tiny holes in them and where netting and fences are such as digouts on basball. These patterns move and shimmer with noise reduction off. When set to low the patterns are clean clear and shimmer free.

Another issue I see here is he criticized the blue in dark scenes. Hmmm Gain adjusts blue in light areas Bias adjusts blue in dark areas. His adjustment would enhance what he was trying to adjust out. they do overlap a bit and one affects the other but overall adjusting the bias makes the blue worse in dark scenes.

The review that had been out a while at the other site found default white balance to be nearly on with a little sided to the blue like he said but the adjustment at default was pretty much on. This is why I went back to defualt white balance. Adjusting white balance as he has would destroy the luminance of the set. Perhaps this is why he turned the brightness up after wards.

After messing with the set as long as I have, I am very dissapointed with what he has released. The settings tell me he has a system and follows it without any regard to each individual sets characteristics.

While I understand each set is a little different for me those settings are completely unwatchable.

I actually find it hard to believe he came to the conclusion that this set was as great a picture and better in some ways that the top of the lines with those settings

Anyway to each his own. I love the set and Ive been doing this long enough to know it is one of the best images you can get on an LCD and its cheap

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post #750 of 4672 Old 06-20-2009, 09:36 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amdriven2liv View Post

CNET'S CALIBRATION SETTINGS:
http://news.cnet.com/8301-17938_105-9996461-1.html

Picture Mode: Cinema
Backlight: Min
Picture: 81
Brightness: 53
Color: 40
Hue: R1
Color Temperature: Warm
Sharpness: Min
Noise Reduction: Off
Adv. Contrast Enhancer: Off
Gamma: Low
Clear White: Off
Live Color: Off

-- Advanced Settings menu
CineMotion: Auto 1
Game Mode: Off
Motionflow: Off

-- White Balance menu
R-Gain: -5
G-Gain: -4
B-Gain: -11
R-Bias: -5
G-Bias: 2
B-Bias: 2

--Setup menu;
Backlight: On
PC Power Management: Off
Light Sensor: Off[IMG]http://***************/9/P/i.jpg[/IMG]

I use these settings [or very similar] & everything is perfect
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