Official Samsung LNxxB750 User Settings/Calibration Thread - Page 50 - AVS Forum
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post #1471 of 1489 Old 10-31-2011, 10:22 AM
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I have had this set since day one and I'm now wondering two things that I hope you experienced and professional folks can help me with.

One: At what point does one have to reset the tv. I'm under the impression that settings inputted over the life of the set lose what they had from the aging set.

Two: Is there a away to turn off or control the soap opera effect while using the Amazon Instant Video widget. Movies on their are so over processed that I need to turn off or lower it to even think of enjoying that ability.
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post #1472 of 1489 Old 11-01-2011, 11:43 AM
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I guess you should keep adjusting and see what looks best, but I would think a the bulb in this thing degrades a lot slower than say a projector bulb.

I haven't tried the Amazon streamer yet. Can you describe what tv mode you are in and how you are streaming from amazon? Are the motion control settings locked in that mode?
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post #1473 of 1489 Old 11-03-2011, 01:38 PM
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Is there any difference between standard and movie if they both are set identical?
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post #1474 of 1489 Old 11-03-2011, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by telc View Post

Is there any difference between standard and movie if they both are set identical?

Yes, the default color temp is different (normal for standard and warm2 for movie).
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post #1475 of 1489 Old 11-04-2011, 04:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Dolfan349 View Post

Yes, the default color temp is different (normal for standard and warm2 for movie).

I ment if you have them both configured identical is there any difference.
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post #1476 of 1489 Old 11-04-2011, 07:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by telc View Post

I ment if you have them both configured identical is there any difference.

You mean if you somehow calibrated both of them to the same gamma and color temp? I suppose not, but I don't think that's possible on standard, it's just too blue.
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post #1477 of 1489 Old 12-20-2011, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viche View Post

I guess you should keep adjusting and see what looks best, but I would think a the bulb in this thing degrades a lot slower than say a projector bulb.

I haven't tried the Amazon streamer yet. Can you describe what tv mode you are in and how you are streaming from amazon? Are the motion control settings locked in that mode?

I have to look again as I gave up on it, but I remember it being locked as far as AMP was concerned. I'll confirm details of what I can and can't do again and re-post.
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post #1478 of 1489 Old 12-21-2011, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Neat View Post

I have to look again as I gave up on it, but I remember it being locked as far as AMP was concerned. I'll confirm details of what I can and can't do again and re-post.

Thanks. How do you even get to the Amazon Widget? Is it something built into the tv? Maybe I don't have it because I am on an old firmware version.
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post #1479 of 1489 Old 12-21-2011, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Viche View Post

Thanks. How do you even get to the Amazon Widget? Is it something built into the tv? Maybe I don't have it because I am on an old firmware version.

Yeah, it's a widget on the set. I'm going to connect the set tonight and try out video on it and see what's what again. I watched some Amazon Videos on (through) Roku and I felt the video hiccuped every so often, on both my LG 60 PK950 Plasma and Sammy 52 B750, so now I have to connect it through ethernet to see if that was a wireless issue.

I just want to be able to watch Amazon video on my sets and it's just one silly headache after another.
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post #1480 of 1489 Old 12-22-2011, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Neat View Post

Yeah, it's a widget on the set. I'm going to connect the set tonight and try out video on it and see what's what again. I watched some Amazon Videos on (through) Roku and I felt the video hiccuped every so often, on both my LG 60 PK950 Plasma and Sammy 52 B750, so now I have to connect it through ethernet to see if that was a wireless issue.

I just want to be able to watch Amazon video on my sets and it's just one silly headache after another.

Yeah amazon video has been a real let down due to lack of ways of getting it to my tv. I don't really want to attach the tv to the internet because I hear that that forces your set to find and install the latest update, which I don't want to do....if it ain't broke don't fix it.

I was really surprised that my xbox and ps3 didn't have an amazon app. There's a kludgy means of getting it through the xbox, but it's not worth pursuing.

Which Roku do you have? Is it 1080 compatible?
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post #1481 of 1489 Old 01-03-2012, 08:27 AM
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Can anyone recommend some good AMP settings for the 360? I currently have it at 10 and 2, but keep noticing some (what I think) is judder during games most recently on Halo Anniversary.

I'm trying to determine if it's the TV settings or my Onkyo 608.
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post #1482 of 1489 Old 01-04-2012, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stryker412 View Post

Can anyone recommend some good AMP settings for the 360? I currently have it at 10 and 2, but keep noticing some (what I think) is judder during games most recently on Halo Anniversary.

I'm trying to determine if it's the TV settings or my Onkyo 608.

I can't even play xbox or ps3 without game mode turned on. With game mode on, AMP is off. If I was willing to deal with the lag induced by AMP, I'd probably set it at 10/7
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post #1483 of 1489 Old 01-06-2012, 06:35 AM
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Man I thought Game Mode was on. I must have turned it off a long time ago when I was still using Netflix. Oops.
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post #1484 of 1489 Old 01-19-2012, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by serro821 View Post

The picture isn't horrid, but I lost the ability to get that life-like picture quality that I had out of the box. I guess it is called the soap opera effect. Pretty upset about it.

Through research, I found SamyGO. They have software that may allow me to downgrade my software.

I've seen several requests for settings for the soap opera effect but haven't seen any replies. Anyone know how to get it back?

I figured if I reset the blur and judder settings it would bring it back to when I first turned on the set which had a very prominent soap opera effect. It sets it back to 5 and 5 but still no effect.

I'm starting to think it does have something to do with the firmware.
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post #1485 of 1489 Old 01-28-2012, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viche View Post


Yeah amazon video has been a real let down due to lack of ways of getting it to my tv. I don't really want to attach the tv to the internet because I hear that that forces your set to find and install the latest update, which I don't want to do....if it ain't broke don't fix it.

I was really surprised that my xbox and ps3 didn't have an amazon app. There's a kludgy means of getting it through the xbox, but it's not worth pursuing.

Which Roku do you have? Is it 1080 compatible?

I have the Roku 2 XD 1080p streamer. I tried it on both of my sets (Sammy 52B750 and LG60PK950) and Amazon streaming looks amazingly better this way on the B750 than through the ****** app because it obviously comes in like an outside device allowing for picture controls like amp. The PK950 plasma looks better but not by enough to brutally knock down the B750.

I do wish I had the Roku 2 XS 1080p streamer because it offers Ethernet connection and not just wireless.
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post #1486 of 1489 Old 01-28-2012, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stryker412 View Post

Can anyone recommend some good AMP settings for the 360? I currently have it at 10 and 2, but keep noticing some (what I think) is judder during games most recently on Halo Anniversary.

I'm trying to determine if it's the TV settings or my Onkyo 608.

I do game mode. I feel it looks the best and is the best I think we can get with input lag.
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post #1487 of 1489 Old 10-27-2012, 06:45 AM
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Can someone please post a good football setting. Thanks in advance.
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post #1488 of 1489 Old 12-20-2012, 06:28 AM
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Anyone else having this problem with the middle grayscale range?

I have a LN52B750 that is several years old. I calibrated it when I got it with an i1 LT, but a few months ago I bought the better i1 Display 3. I figured I'd re-calibrate my TV to see if anything changed over the years. Things went OK, but I'm running into the same problem that I did back then. The grayscale has this pesky blue hump in the middle. I can lower the blue offset to get the middle correct, but then there's not enough blue down low. It seems like the closer I get the middle, the worse the upper and lower ends of the grayscale get. It's the same with the red. If I raise the R offset to get a little more red near the 40-50% range, there's way too much red down low. Here's what I came up with last night (see pics). my settings are:

White Balance:
R-Offset: 25
G-Offset: 25
B-Offset: 26
R-Gain: 35
G-Gain: 25
B-Gain: 23






Other settings:

Mode: Movie
Backlight: 4
Contrast: 95
Brightness: 47
Color: 48
Tint: G49/R51

Gamma: +2
Color Space: Auto
Color Tone: Warm2
Black Tone: Off
Dyn. Contrast: Off
Flesh Tone: 0
Edge Enhance: Off
xvYCC: Off

Size: Screen Fit
Digital NR: Off
HDMI Black Level: Greyed Out (or low for cable box)
Film Mode: Greyed Out (or Film 1 for interlaced material)
Auto Motion Plus: Custom

Blur: 10
Judder: 0 (or 3 for TV)

Game Mode: Off
Energy Savings: Off

Service Menu:
CE Dimming OFF
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post #1489 of 1489 Old 03-20-2014, 09:35 AM
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I've recently abandoned the world of surround sound for pure stereo. Because of that, I'm running HDMI straight into the TV. To fix lipsync issues, I've had to calibrate in Game Mode. Using HCFR and an iOne Display 2, I've calibrated to close to what I had under Movie Mode and Warm 2... basically forcing Normal Color Tone to look like Warm 2. I know this thread is old and the TV by TV standards is ancient, but I thought I'd share anyway.

Mode: Game
Backlight: 5
Contrast: 88
Brightness: 46
Color: 47
Tint: 50/50
Gamma: -1

Color Space: Custom
Red RGB: 50, 0, 0
Green RGB: 24, 58, 0
Blue RGB: 5, 5, 57
Yellow RGB: 57, 56, 0
Cyan RGB: 24, 50, 52
Magenta RGB: 38, 0, 50

White Balance
RGB Offset: 26, 25, 21
RGB Gain: 33, 25, 15
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