Official Samsung LNxxB650 Calibration/Settings Thread - Page 6 - AVS Forum
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post #151 of 328 Old 10-15-2009, 05:48 PM
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I finally broke down and bought an eye one 2 to calibrate my tv and all i have to say is WOW. Whoever said that that you could just find other peoples setting that would "work" for you and just use those didnt know what they were talking about. The $300 i paid for the device and software was worth every penny, its like a whole new tv. I was ever able to calibrate game mode very close to d65 standards which amazed me because you are locked out of warm2 with game mode. Anyone who wants the best picture possible out of your tv then invest the money in a decent calibration device. When your spending close to $2000 on a tv another $300 is not really that much more to get the best out of your investment. I live in Wilmington, NC if anyone is in my area and would like to calibrate their tv just pm me ill try to help. If anyone is interested in my setting i could share them as well, but like i said it wont be nearly as good as actually calibrating your tv, i had some settings pluged into mine that i thought looked good but were totaly off when i tested them.

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post #152 of 328 Old 10-15-2009, 07:58 PM
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Why is this thread so lame? and why does everyone including CNET want the TV in Movie Mode and Warm? it looks dark and terrible - no?

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post #153 of 328 Old 10-15-2009, 09:29 PM
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It looks so bad to you because most sets come set to dynamic mode that is to bright to set it apart against many other TVs in a bright viewing environment. The TV with the most "pop" and vivid colors is going to sell better than one with less appeal. When you set your TV in movie mode and set it to warm2 is gives your picture a more realistic quality. When properly calibrated the image will look almost 3 dimensional and your color, whites and blacks will be much more accurate and true to what we see in real life. Your shadow detail is also killed with things like black tone, dynamic contrast, having your back light to high, to high contrast, or to low brightness. There are many factors that affect the way your TV looks, if you want the most realistic picture you can achieve i would read through this thread and the official LNXXB650 thread. There is a lot of valuable information in those threads and on this sight. Some people do like the over saturated and vivid look though.
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post #154 of 328 Old 10-16-2009, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nighthawklude99 View Post

It looks so bad to you because most sets come set to dynamic mode that is to bright to set it apart against many other TVs in a bright viewing environment. The TV with the most "pop" and vivid colors is going to sell better than one with less appeal. When you set your TV in movie mode and set it to warm2 is gives your picture a more realistic quality. When properly calibrated the image will look almost 3 dimensional and your color, whites and blacks will be much more accurate and true to what we see in real life. Your shadow detail is also killed with things like black tone, dynamic contrast, having your back light to high, to high contrast, or to low brightness. There are many factors that affect the way your TV looks, if you want the most realistic picture you can achieve i would read through this thread and the official LNXXB650 thread. There is a lot of valuable information in those threads and on this sight. Some people do like the over saturated and vivid look though.

Yeah, I wouldn't call VIVID saturated to my eye - that's why I'm wondering what the hell? maybe it's me? I wear glasses and have a below average vision , but those CNET settings made the TV DARK and blotchy / murky .....
Maybe I'll try it again ....

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post #155 of 328 Old 10-17-2009, 09:10 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RicFlair View Post

Yeah, I wouldn't call VIVID saturated to my eye - that's why I'm wondering what the hell? maybe it's me? I wear glasses and have a below average vision , but those CNET settings made the TV DARK and blotchy / murky .....
Maybe I'll try it again ....

The MOVIE settings look great with brightly lit films. But with darker films (like DARK CITY, DAREDEVIL, BLADE RUNNER, etc. etc.), a lot of detail is lost. The STANDARD setting works better with those films.
DYNAMIC is just too bright and blown-out.
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post #156 of 328 Old 10-20-2009, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel Clemons View Post

The MOVIE settings look great with brightly lit films. But with darker films (like DARK CITY, DAREDEVIL, BLADE RUNNER, etc. etc.), a lot of detail is lost. The STANDARD setting works better with those films.

This is just not true. (bold text quoted)

If you are losing details in Movie mode, it could be because your HDMI level setting is mismatched to your output, crushing blacks. Search for the HDMI input level setting on both TV and input device, a.k.a. high/low, 16-235/0-255, normal/expanded.

Or it could be gamma as explained by Bill Mitchell below.

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post #157 of 328 Old 10-20-2009, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RicFlair View Post

Why is this thread so lame? and why does everyone including CNET want the TV in Movie Mode and Warm? it looks dark and terrible - no?

No.

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post #158 of 328 Old 10-20-2009, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joel Clemons View Post

The MOVIE settings look great with brightly lit films. But with darker films (like DARK CITY, DAREDEVIL, BLADE RUNNER, etc. etc.), a lot of detail is lost. The STANDARD setting works better with those films.
DYNAMIC is just too bright and blown-out.

In addition to thhowl's suggestions, grayscale and gamma have a large effect on detail. Typically what is happening on an uncalibrated set is that the gamma is not flat, but rather greatly increases at the low end, indicating that the luminance is getting too low and blacks are being crushed. This is aggravated when dynamic contrast is enabled. On my A650, I actually spent more time tweaking the grayscale controls to try to keep the gamma at the low end under 2.4 than I did tuning the colors. If you buy an EyeOne probe, turn off the dynamic effects, and use the HCFR software to calibrate the grayscale and gamma, you should find you will actually see more detail in movie mode than in any of the standard settings.
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post #159 of 328 Old 10-20-2009, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Mitchell View Post

In addition to thhowl's suggestionsIf you buy an EyeOne probe, turn off the dynamic effects, and use the HCFR software to calibrate the grayscale and gamma, you should find you will actually see more detail in movie mode than in any of the standard settings.


I've tried various settings for movie mode on my LN55B650 but no matter which settings I choose movie mode always seems to look more dull than the other settings. Almost like there is a dirty haze over the picture, you might see more detail in dark scenes but the scenes look more washed out in general.
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post #160 of 328 Old 10-20-2009, 08:56 AM
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We will always get that impression when switching back and forth between a brilliant/vivid/hyper-saturated pictures and a more natural one. It's the way our brains are wired to respond to brilliant/vivid/hyper-saturated things -it doesn't mean it's a "better" picture. That over-brightness and over-saturation are not the image the movie director intended, and/or certainly not what the scene really looked like.

Our minds are also able to find brightness, contrast, and saturation in a scene after they are shielded from over-bright, over-contrasty, over-saturated scenes for a while. So give it a day of watching an image closer to the D65 standard. A "correct" image is an acquired taste.

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post #161 of 328 Old 10-20-2009, 09:08 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thhowl View Post

This is just not true. (bold text quoted)

If you are losing details in Movie mode, it could be because your HDMI level setting is mismatched to your output, crushing blacks. Search for the HDMI input level setting on both TV and input device, a.k.a. high/low, 16-235/0-255, normal/expanded.

Or it could be gamma as explained by Bill Mitchell below.

I have Dynamic Contrast off and Gamma at zero. HDMI settings are greyed out (listed as NORMAL) so it can't be adjusted. (via HDMI)
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post #162 of 328 Old 10-20-2009, 09:16 AM
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What about the HDMI level setting of your input device? (e.g. Blu-Ray player)

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post #163 of 328 Old 10-20-2009, 12:39 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thhowl View Post

What about the HDMI level setting of your input device? (e.g. Blu-Ray player)

1080p/24fps. There is no option on the player (Magnavox) to select high/low, 16-235/0-255. Nor is there any such setting on the cable box.
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post #164 of 328 Old 10-27-2009, 07:04 PM
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So I don't know if anyone else has noticed a strong green push on the B650 series in the "native" color space greens that are intended to be vibrant come across unnaturally neon but I've been trying to calibrate it out by using a custom color space. If you want an example of scenes where greens come across way over the top, check out the forest fight in Transformers: Revenge of the Fallen or any of the grassy scenes in a show like CSI: Miami. Switching to "custom" color space immediately eliminates the green push, so the trick was getting the custom space to match the "native" space in every other way possible. In the process I also discovered that the native color space puts a little too much red in the fleshtones and has about a half-point too dark gamma, so I think these settings help rectify those issues as well:

HDMI Input (based on Blu-Ray source):
Mode: Movie
Backlight: 5
Constrast: 95
Brightness: 44
Sharpness: 20
Color: 58
Tint 50/50

Advanced Settings:
Black Tone: Off
Dynamic Contrast: Off
Gamma: +1
Color Space: Custom Red 60/5/0, Green 0/75/20, Blue 0/0/70, Yellow 47/50/0, Cyan 0/50/70, Magenta 50/0/40

White Balance: R-Offest 25, G-Offset 23, B-Offset 23, R-Gain 32, G-Gain 25, B-Gain 25

Flesh Tone: 0
Edge Enhancement: Off

Color Tone: Normal
Size: Screen Fit
Digital NR: Off
HDMI Black Level: Low
Auto Motion Plus 120Hz: 8/2


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for my home theater setup
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post #165 of 328 Old 10-31-2009, 06:00 PM
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post #166 of 328 Old 11-09-2009, 07:18 AM
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What is considered the "0" sharpness setting for this set? I've had mine set to 0 since I've owned it, but I find it interesting that PC Mode, etc. locks the sharpness in at about 20. Is 20 the actual "No sharpness processing" setting on the B650's? Calibrating with DVE I really couldn't see that much of a difference below that level, so I'm wondering if that's the case. Any thoughts?
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post #167 of 328 Old 11-09-2009, 09:43 PM
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Is there a generally accepted "best" calibration to use.... there seems to be alot of people saying the CNET one isn't that great so what do most people recommend?
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post #168 of 328 Old 11-15-2009, 10:17 AM
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can someone post a link or the original CNET settings?

I have a b610 but the settings should be similar
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post #169 of 328 Old 11-15-2009, 10:32 AM
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or I have the 640? Setting should be close....

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post #170 of 328 Old 11-18-2009, 09:35 PM
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Full review, test and D65 settings here: hdtvtest.co.uk/Samsung-LE40B650/ Much more detailed and interesting than cnets basic settings.

Gives great picture!
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post #171 of 328 Old 11-18-2009, 10:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phil_75 View Post

Full review, test and D65 settings here: hdtvtest.co.uk/Samsung-LE40B650/ Much more detailed and interesting than cnets basic settings.

Gives great picture!

Now that is what I'm talking about! I can just adjust my backlight/Gamma to increase punch in different settings but everything seems spot on. I actually didn't think I could get this kind of picture on a non LED LCD.

Thanks for the link
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post #172 of 328 Old 11-23-2009, 08:57 PM
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Hey everyone

So I've finally upgraded to DirecTV HD service, and was wondering which settings would work best on my B650?

Doug's? Span's? someone elses?

Do any of those work better on DirecTV HD compared to others? At this time I do not have a Bluray player, which is what those seem to be set too.

Thanks!
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post #173 of 328 Old 11-24-2009, 06:53 AM
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I'm still using the settings I posted with 2 exceptions... I bumped the Judder to 2 and turned the DC back on to low to give it a little pop.. I have everything in one input (Directv/PS3/360) and the best settings for Blu-ray movies do not go well with a football game. I had to find a happy medium between the 2. I had turned the DC setting back on once the season got going because it seemed to lack the wow factor and I have left it like that since. I mainly watch more football than anything else. If it wasn't for that I would probably leave the DC setting off. It's best just to play with everyones settings on here till you find what you like because it really will depend on what you will mostly watch on Directv.
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post #174 of 328 Old 11-24-2009, 07:33 AM
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Searched thread and couldnt find any 360 owners. Any calibrations in particular?
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post #175 of 328 Old 11-24-2009, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Villanman View Post

I'm still using the settings I posted with 2 exceptions... I bumped the Judder to 2 and turned the DC back on to low to give it a little pop.. I have everything in one input (Directv/PS3/360) and the best settings for Blu-ray movies do not go well with a football game. I had to find a happy medium between the 2. I had turned the DC setting back on once the season got going because it seemed to lack the wow factor and I have left it like that since. I mainly watch more football than anything else. If it wasn't for that I would probably leave the DC setting off. It's best just to play with everyones settings on here till you find what you like because it really will depend on what you will mostly watch on Directv.

So true. I don't watch really any sports on DirecTV. It's mainly TV shows, and movies. I'll try a couple of the different settings, and see which ones seem to look best.
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post #176 of 328 Old 11-25-2009, 07:31 AM
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How do you get in the Service Menu

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post #177 of 328 Old 11-25-2009, 07:57 AM
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How do you get in the Service Menu

First, I HIGHLY recommend not going into the service menu unless you know what you are doing.

Turn the power off. On the remote, press Mute followed by 1, 8, 2, Power in sequence. The TV will turn on and you should now see the service menu. To get into the advanced section highlight it and press 0000. Also, the right arrow button acts like an enter/select button, not direction right.
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post #178 of 328 Old 11-27-2009, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phil_75 View Post

Full review, test and D65 settings here: hdtvtest.co.uk/Samsung-LE40B650/ Much more detailed and interesting than cnets basic settings.

Gives great picture!

I have tried a lot calibration settings from this thread for my ln46B650 and ln52B630 and these just looked the best to me. The only tweaks I made was bumping the backlight up to 6 due to my room lighting and lowering contrast to 95. The fleshtones just look really good in both SD and HD. Thanks
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post #179 of 328 Old 11-30-2009, 06:33 PM
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Hey thanks for the nice settings for TV viewing. I was wondering however if anybody has a good calibration for PS3 while playing games (Call of Duty). I know that having game mode on is essential because without it the input lag is way too high.

But with game mode on, anyone have some good settings to make the picture as optimal as possible. BTW, I got the 32 inch and usually sit 3-4 feet away while playing.
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post #180 of 328 Old 11-30-2009, 10:52 PM
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I don't use game mode on my 55" and I notice no lag with call of duty mw2 on the 360. I've actually haven't noticed any at all on any game I've played so far and that includes the ps3.
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