KDL-XBR4 Half the Screen Dark with Slow Pixel Refresh – All inputs - Page 4 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #91 of 158 Old 04-01-2010, 07:05 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Extreme_Boky's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,130
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
No T-CON failures in Sony?

Boky
Extreme_Boky is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #92 of 158 Old 04-01-2010, 07:43 AM
AVS Special Member
 
lcaillo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 3,459
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Not saying that at all. Sony has t-con failures just like everyone else. I have not seen it cause the problem described.

Yes, calibration is important...every user should be calibrated.

Need electronics repair? A great place to start looking for a shop in your area: http://www.tvrepairpros.com/
lcaillo is offline  
post #93 of 158 Old 06-01-2010, 08:17 AM
Newbie
 
GlennQuagmire's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Only Tono, you are my hero! I joined this forum just to thank you. I bought a KDL-52W300 a couple of months ago on Craigs's List for quite a bit less than what a properly working TV would cost. It was a bit of a gamble, but since I repair laptops for a living I figured I'd take a shot at it. It took a while to track down your fix and it was well worth it. I just finished the fix and I'm grinning ear to ear. THANK YOU!
GlennQuagmire is offline  
post #94 of 158 Old 06-05-2010, 11:28 PM
Newbie
 
hodster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Hi all, just a quick note to thank all the users who contributed to this thread - I just pulled apart my KDL-46X3100 (Australian model, equivelant to the XBR3) - and sure enough my top right hand boding tab is the root cause of all of my problems. What is interesting, and against what some have said about what kind of problems can be caused by this obvious manufacturing defect (it occurs in the same place every time!), is the wide range of issue I can reproduce reliably just by putting pressure on the tab or tapping it...

Photos follow.

1 - The TV with stand removed.



2 - Remove the back; takes lots of phillips head screws and a couple of star screws.



3 - Remove the speakers and more scews to release the front facia.



4 - There's a top bracket to remove; if you're good you can remove it but keeping the two major reinforcing arms in-place, so you can keep the LCD standing up and so you can place the panel top-side-up without pressure on the electronics - I found a must for a one man job. You will need to undo the top screws of the arms only and I needed a hammer to bend one of the locating tabs an extra mm.



5 - Remove the exposed clips (flat head screwdriver to lever them off) and then take off the aluminium bracket holding the panel.



Then by pressing on the top right bonding tab, I can reproduce the following:

6 - Symptom #1: the red blurry dark slow response on the RHS of the display...



7 - Symptom #2: weird flashy H-scanlines and a double (or more) ghost effect...



8 - Symptom #3: is the worst of them all, just some weird vertical and horizontal lines...



Unfortunately for me extra pressure isn't necessarily a sure-fire way to fix the problems on cold start. I need to play over a few more cold-start cycles to see if I can get something working reliably before putting it back together.

I'll try and post here again if/when I choose a permanent fix.
mowwow likes this.
hodster is offline  
post #95 of 158 Old 06-07-2010, 09:08 PM
Newbie
 
penguinone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
So I have the same issue as Hodster (the horizonal lines with the duplicating, ghosting images).

OnlyTono's fix seems related to the dark, slow pixels and not this issue, right?

And it happens when cold, and goes away when warmed up.

Is there a current hack/fix for this particular issue yet?
penguinone is offline  
post #96 of 158 Old 06-09-2010, 03:39 AM
Newbie
 
hodster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Hey penguinone,

No! The good news is *all* of these three symptoms are related to the top right hand bonding tab. OnlyTono only had the blurry/red problem, but I have all three. I can get my TV working within seconds of turning it on just by tweaking that bonding tab one way or another. The only thing I'm struggling with is a technique so it will always work when I put the thing back together.

So don't worry, you have the same problem as I, and it looks somewhat fixable.

I guess if you can't reliably tweak the tab, you could always leave a hole in the bezel and push something rubbery or foamy through... %)
hodster is offline  
post #97 of 158 Old 06-11-2010, 03:42 PM
Member
 
bruno511079's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 48
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Any permanent solutions yet?
bruno511079 is offline  
post #98 of 158 Old 06-17-2010, 01:52 PM
Newbie
 
Gamefan7's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
OnlyTono THANK YOU VERY MUCH, MAN!!!!!!!

My TV Sony bravia 40W4500 was completely broken & it has the same problem as yours - almost 3/4 of a screen is completely dark & as same as you the pixels in the dark area seem to refresh really-really slowly, creating an ultra smearing effect, today i fix my tv thanks to your manual!!!! My warranty has ended 5 month ago and sony says in service centre that i need to replace my panel, but I'm not agree with that.

OnlyTono THANK YOU SO MUCH, MAN, YOU'RE REALLY HELP ME & A LOT OF PEOPLE TO SAVE A LOT OF MONEY!!!!!
Gamefan7 is offline  
post #99 of 158 Old 06-21-2010, 01:06 AM
Newbie
 
hodster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
After a couple of weeks of testing, I couldn't find a reliable permanent solution, so I got cutting...

... an appropriate notch in the aluminium panel frame to allow access to the defective bonding tab;



... and a matching notch in the outer plastic facia; so now at least I can poke it with something appropriate to get my TV working within a few seconds, most of the time.



That's the best I could do!
hodster is offline  
post #100 of 158 Old 06-22-2010, 08:00 PM
Newbie
 
miltbjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by hodster View Post

After a couple of weeks of testing, I couldn't find a reliable permanent solution, so I got cutting...

... an appropriate notch in the aluminium panel frame to allow access to the defective bonding tab;



... and a matching notch in the outer plastic facia; so now at least I can poke it with something appropriate to get my TV working within a few seconds, most of the time.



That's the best I could do!

So all you have to do is poke that tab, and the picture clears up?
I'm wondering if a smaller cut out would be enough?
miltbjr is offline  
post #101 of 158 Old 07-11-2010, 06:05 PM
Newbie
 
donskywalker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
hey guys got a question for you, recently i got a free sony bravia kdl-32l4000 from a friend who was going to toss it because the screen had the same issue as the one in this thread with the exception of this irritating band that was on the screen...anyway i took it apart and tried to fix it with the method tono posted but i only succeeded in fixing the band and the flickering screen issue remained and rather than buy a new panel for a grand or more im just going to part it out but...i guess my question is what parts should i be careful of taking out so i dont get shocked as i hear some parts carry a charge even when unplugged. thanks for any help in this, and sorry for the wall of text and long ass post lol.
donskywalker is offline  
post #102 of 158 Old 07-12-2010, 02:19 PM
Newbie
 
rp1947's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Exact same symptom as my KDL46VL130. Been fighting with Sony since this first appeared during the warranty period and I have an e-mail trail. On the phone with their Customer Service this very morning and got a "tough luck" reply since doesn't matter when it first appeared (began as intermittent problem), but when it went in for servicing at an authorized dealer. Sorry to tell you that, but I'm done with Sony forever.
rp1947 is offline  
post #103 of 158 Old 08-05-2010, 07:57 AM
Newbie
 
Solo_'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by display veteran View Post

I’ll have to give you an A+ for effort and creativity on this one. You are correct when you say this may not work and there is not guarantee on how long it will last.

Tab bonding is performed by using a heat-activated glue that contains tiny steel balls. The steel balls are what make the electrical contact between the tabs on the flex cable and the panel. The steel balls are small enough to prevent a short circuit between the tabs so the glue is simply smeared across the tabs. A steel bar heated with RF energy heats the bar and activates the glue.

This is all done with 2 cameras and a monitor to align the flex cable tabs to the panel tabs. A computer program handles the temperature and duration of the heating of the glue.

What you are demonstrating is a “band aid” solution but I suppose that if one has the time and aptitude to perform this, what do they have to lose? I’ve been able to fix this with a pen torch and a large flat-blade screwdriver to re-bond the glue but that was at a point where I had too much time on my hands :-)

I've a few questions about your "torch & screwdriver" repair.

1. What was the model # of the screwdriver that you used? (Or just give me the approximate dimensions of it, So I can find one of the same type.)
2. Approximately how much time & heat is needed to melt & rebind the glue?
3. Are the panels that you've repaired this way, still operating without any issues?

Thank you.
Solo_ is offline  
post #104 of 158 Old 08-10-2010, 10:20 AM
Newbie
 
tpobandith's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Extreme_Boky View Post

A & D seem to be power supplies for the inverters probably located inside those 2 black plastic panels on each side of the TV
B - power supply for the rest of the PCB's
C - pixel driver PCB (LCD panel driver PCB)
G - inputs / outputs & tuner
E & F are AV processing PCB's

tricky fault... I can not see how the pixel driver board feeds matrix signals to LCD panel. I would clean the contacts here first... and at the LCD panel end as well.

next...???? not an easy one... could be the AV processing boards... or pixel driver PCB.... or panel...


Boky

Please help. I am not sure, which part should I replace. the problem I have with my 46xbr4 is the standby red light kept blink 5 times continously. thank reply greatly approciated.

Thanks
tpobandith is offline  
post #105 of 158 Old 08-23-2010, 07:38 PM
Newbie
 
jordan2102's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hello everybody!
I have a Sony KDL-32L4000 with a similar problem. I bought a T-Con board off E-Bay but that didn't fix it. (I'm just hoping that the new one is not defective too!) I've been tapping all the boards, ribbons and connectors , i've gently twisted the whole TV (mostly the panel) hoping that maybe it's a bad connection somewhere but nothing happened....I would very much appreciate if you could give me some ideas about what my next step should be....I attached some pics so you can see exactly what the symptoms are. Thanks guys!
LL
LL
LL
jordan2102 is offline  
post #106 of 158 Old 09-25-2010, 04:15 PM
Newbie
 
dvcaptainm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
thanks for the ideas, it has helped me troubleshoot some of my lcd issues
dvcaptainm is offline  
post #107 of 158 Old 09-29-2010, 11:45 PM
Newbie
 
dvcaptainm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
thanks for all the info, great work figuring it out. i got the fix to work on a samsung ln-t4661f, but sadly i cracked the bottom right corner of the lcd panel but its about the size of a half dollar coin.

Anyways so i have been using the tv for the day an had no issues so decided i would put the shell back on. Well now the screen after about 2 minutes reverts back to the half the screen is darkened and slow to respond, I have no idea why, the tv wasn't moved while putting it back together and im not really looking forward to taking it apart, im thinking i may have made the bumpers too small and they may have heated up an slid out of place, has anyone else had this issue while using this fix?
dvcaptainm is offline  
post #108 of 158 Old 10-23-2010, 03:54 PM
Newbie
 
mbj123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
just dropping in to say a hearty thank you to all those contributing to this thread, especially the OP. Did this fix last night. Not sure how long it will last but for now this has saved me a ton of cash.

woot

the only thing is that i decided to do this late last night and I didn't really have stuff (particulary bumpstops) . . . soooo I cut up one of the wife's silicon spatulas and used it. Which leads me to this piece of advice . .. if you do that, don't use a blue one. there is a small hint of blue illumination in the corner. It can only be seen when the screen is black and I'm not worrying about it.
mbj123 is offline  
post #109 of 158 Old 11-26-2010, 02:00 PM
Newbie
 
canpaul's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I last posted in March, post #88. I have not done anything with the set since then, and at the time I was unable to upload pictures. I now have some shots of the screen and thought I would post them.

Paul


Attachment 192343

Attachment 192344

Attachment 192345
LL
LL
LL
canpaul is offline  
post #110 of 158 Old 12-29-2010, 01:24 PM
Newbie
 
GarryE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hi OnlyTono et al,

Thanks for the posts on this thread, hosting images and the videos on youtube. I needed all of the above to work out how to fix my left-side-dark slow-pixel-refresh problem. It took me two iterations and a few hours. I only have the following minor variations to suggest: (1) re-attach the two vertical struts and stand for ease of access during the repair; and (2) I used electrical tape to secure plastic padding on the top left inner horizontal surface of the aluminium frame because I could not find any bumpoffs at home and the shops were closed at the time.

I think Sony has a design flaw here and needs to better manage the high temperature along the top edge of the LCD panel which no doubt contributes to the delamination/unbonding. I've moved my Sony KDL-46X3100 to the airconditioned basement of my house. Its has been fine since.

Keep up the good work.

GarryE
Brisbane
GarryE is offline  
post #111 of 158 Old 01-04-2011, 11:17 AM
Newbie
 
Cold_Cathode's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Howdy!

I'll return with a proper post re: my 32m3000 trials and tribulations - for now I thought I'd chime in with a couple of kwik suggestions (take the good with the bad).

Apply some RTV silicone (Gasket-Maker©) to the end of the end of a metal ruler (mechanical scale). give it a couple of coats (of RT) .. we want a moderate build-up. A moderate build-up of high-temperature (resistant), form-fitting, heat-transferring: RTV glue on our applicator stick.

Place a hot-air gun face-up in an adequate holder of some description. This is to be our convenient heat-source. < careful! Hot means hot!

I'm not exactly sure what the desired temperature-of-application would or should be. I've peeled some ribbon back - back off of a dud-set and it looks like there is an intervening layer of what appears to be a thin layer of clear hot-melt©. This is to say .. it does not appear the entire 'micro-finger' is employed in making contact.

Fine continuity measurements will shed light on this. There appears only a fine region of contact (metal-to-metal) right along the inner-edge (the leading edge as viewed "panel-side"). This contact area represents a mere 5 percent of the available "finger area".
The rest of the finger area is apparently employed as a convenient ribbon anchorage re: hot-melt.


Perhaps we should scrap the comparatively wide heat applicator and opt for a knife-edge heat applicator.

Laser welding comes to mind .. not sure of the optical transparency co-efficient for the overlaying Kapton©. Solder is assuredly a poor absorber re: highly reflective. There might be a window of opportunity in there somewhere. Requires pretty accurate placement - employ a quartz glass overlay (jig). Laser are known for decent accuracy (smirk).

The thin soldered region appears pretty chalky I might add - I'm surmising this as not a particularly benign environment for fine solder connections. "Panel out-gassing" might contribute to solder degradation. (like I said - take the good with the bad) : )


Moving along ..

in relation to BumpOns© ....how about: apply a bead of Mono© or silicone glue (of proper "rigidity") to the appropriate tab locations - this along the inside surface of the metal casement? Allow these beads to cure overnight then trim with razor blade - as required. A mute point if we've fixed our de-lamination issue - although it may have merit from a heat-sink standpoint.

Contact spray-cleaner as applied under the ribbon cable right into the zone in question may have merit in removing offending contaminations. It strikes me that this is a high-stress solder environment (for all the right (read: wrong) reasons).

FYI - the ribbon cable is of a material known as Kapton ...

Kapton© is a goldish-ambery, transparent polyimide film developed by DuPont which can remain stable in a wide range of temperatures, from -273 to +400 °C.


All this is in contradiction to the steel ball in glue hypothesis .. I'm seeing just regular old solder - is my impression. Nothing particularly fancy going on here.

It's only soldered on a very tiny spot to ameliorate production soldering limitations .. or soldering limitations in general .. as applied to this geometry and materials composition (and service) .. it's making the best of a bad thing - ultimately. We're not seeing solder-bridging in this particularly tight region.

All this subject to confirmation and assessment. Trust this as somehow reasonable and in the same breath: reasonably well-received.

Wish me luck with my 32m3000 .. a "T-con swap-out" paid no dividends - oh well 8 S

reverting to Plan B i.e. assessing the D-lam hypothesis.
Cold_Cathode is offline  
post #112 of 158 Old 01-04-2011, 10:46 PM
Newbie
 
Cold_Cathode's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I investigated a little further re: the nature of the tab bond .. this from an old KDL series 46" damaged screen. I heated a tab with a hot air gun. After a decent heat I was able to readily pull the tab away from the circuit board. Viewing the tab through a light source - it appeared less than pristine clean - sloping toward dirty.

There's no obvious solder - so I might stand corrected on my previous post. Evidently it's some kind of selectively conductive glue (I gather) I was getting continuity readings pretty much every which way (except inter-finger).

As for homespun solutions .. laser printers have the red-rubber fuser roll. It can take quite a bit of heat .. heat the end of a hacked roll with a hot-air gun and work this roll-end over any tab in question. This might make up for some of my less-than-practical previous suggestions : )

I'm still working on my 32M3000. Sony logo corruption did not benefit from the T-Con exchange - corruption is still there as you can see in the pic .. The solution for this well-defined problem is not forth-coming off the net. I'm getting "mixed signals". People are quick to suggest it's a panel problem - including Sony. But they didn't enumerate this exact particular symptom re: "Logo banding" .. they just suggest that any banding is a panel problem .. that's a bit too heavy-handed an assessment - I think it fair to say.

Other set-owners are complaining about this very specific "corrupted logo and super slow-motion "motion blur" issue. There seems to be some bias toward orange in image rendering.

I'm not getting any PC signal detection .. I got a good PC signal and a good cable .. This diagnostic crept up having replaced the T-Con .. switching back to the old T-Con did not eliminate it i.e. still not detecting PC signal. This is pointing toward a BN board issue. My concern this is in addition to an underlying panel problem. Any insight is appreciated. Fair to say I've eliminated this as a T-Con problem - which was a great disappointment .. sure looked like a T-Con problem re: trailing edges .. poor refresh rate .. corrupted start-up .. lousy color control. I need your considered input.






Cold_Cathode is offline  
post #113 of 158 Old 03-09-2011, 03:38 PM
Newbie
 
Lee52's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
MANY thanks to OnlyTono,NipRing & Everyone else who's contributed to this thread. My KDL-40x3500 has had this troublesome problem for months, & Sony
Europe support didn't seem to want to know about it.

I noticed though, my problem tab was actually the left hand side top tab, as opposed to the right hand one in NipRing's video. Also noticed a slight groove where the tabs are. I had no Bumpons at home, so I simply cut up an rubber eraser, just wide enough to sit in the groove, & deep enough to apply pressure when the silver frame was back on.

It's now been a couple of hours, & the set's working fine.

One thing though - whilst tugging with one of the troublesome speaker wires, i accidentally knocked out the wires that run to the on/off /volume panel. They don't look like they were soldered in, so I'm assuming they were just pushed in.

Would anyone know the correct placement of the 3 wires?

Sorry, i would post links to show pics of the board, but as this is my first post i can't send any links yet.

Thanks once more guys, you've been real lifesavers!
Lee52 is offline  
post #114 of 158 Old 03-29-2011, 09:06 PM
Newbie
 
lahellm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
this was a great lifesaver. Thanks for the tips. I bought this tv on craigslist for 75 bucks from someone else who got a warranty replacement from Sony. For me the screen was dark on half of the picture but was not enough to really make too much of a difference as it was going into my nearly empty basement. After a search on Google for the issue i noticed this site and the clever way to fix it.

This TV has so many screws! Ugh! After about 5 hours I had successfully disassembled the tv applied the bump on to the upper right hand tab and reassembled the tv.

I only have one screw left... Oh well. I did notice that were many screw holes that weren't used for some reason. I now have a working tv that only cost me 75 bucks.
lahellm is offline  
post #115 of 158 Old 07-30-2011, 04:06 AM
Newbie
 
raj_rios's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Following the brilliant guide and all the support I've received on this forum, I've diagnosed and 'nearly' repaired the problem. however, despite the obvious warnings about the metal tabs at the top of the screen, I still found a way to short out the circtuit board which connects to the screen via ribbons. The television turned it self off soon after recognizing the short, however upon turning it back on, I can hear an audible click (the one normally present when switching the power on) ut the screen remains blank. I can understand if there was no response fromthe LCD screen itself, however even the CCL (is that the proper abbreviation for cold cathode lamp?) remains dark. The TV will again turn it self off soon after turning it back on. I don't see how I could have shorted out the 'CCL' when the metal tab touched the LCD board. Could this be a manufacturer short prevention to keep the TV from turning back on before having bene taken to an authorized repair shop? I am under the impression (hoping at least) that I could fix the problem with some sort of manufacturer reset, now that the short has been eliminated. At least the CCL should backlight the screen right? All advice appreciated, but obviously if I was going to take it to a shop I would have done so by now, so please try to direct your advice towards repair, not ridicule. Anybody know of a way to reset the TV using the Manufacturer service port, or some other trick? I'm seconds away from looking for a CMOS battery.....
raj_rios is offline  
post #116 of 158 Old 08-01-2011, 02:05 PM
Newbie
 
Snappy One's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I have a KDL-52XBR4 that has the same problems. I tried replacing the UB-1 & FB-1 boards with no success. I found that the problem was the tab bonding. I tried fixing it by putting in a shim but I could not get it to work correctly. I found a Facebook page named "I have a defective Sony TV." I looked at the info tab on the page and emailed SonyListens about my problem. I can't go into what transpired because of an agreement that I signed with them but I would like to say that it is worth pursuing the issue with them. To see what they might do, read through the posts. Most are for rear projection TV's but you will find posts for the XBR4's also.
Snappy One is offline  
post #117 of 158 Old 08-02-2011, 02:54 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Extreme_Boky's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,130
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cold_Cathode View Post

[size="3"]
I'm still working on my 32M3000. Sony logo corruption did not benefit from the T-Con exchange - corruption is still there as you can see in the pic .. The solution for this well-defined problem is not forth-coming off the net. I'm getting "mixed signals". People are quick to suggest it's a panel problem - including Sony. But they didn't enumerate this exact particular symptom re: "Logo banding" .. they just suggest that any banding is a panel problem .. that's a bit too heavy-handed an assessment - I think it fair to say.

Other set-owners are complaining about this very specific "corrupted logo and super slow-motion "motion blur" issue. There seems to be some bias toward orange in image rendering.

I'm not getting any PC signal detection .. I got a good PC signal and a good cable .. This diagnostic crept up having replaced the T-Con .. switching back to the old T-Con did not eliminate it i.e. still not detecting PC signal. This is pointing toward a BN board issue. My concern this is in addition to an underlying panel problem. Any insight is appreciated. Fair to say I've eliminated this as a T-Con problem - which was a great disappointment .. sure looked like a T-Con problem re: trailing edges .. poor refresh rate .. corrupted start-up .. lousy color control. I need your considered input.

Logos are drawn from the "memory". If they display okay and there's problem with of the air picture - you'll need to replace the processor board - one with the connectors on it. I think sony actually uses two boards (in older TV's) to handle tuner, input selection, microprocessor functions and audio/video signal processing.... this is usually done on one board, and the very latest TV's have the T-CON there as well.

You may have to replace the AV processor board (main board) to fix the bad PC input, and the panel as well. The photos you attached sure look like bad TAB's.


Boky
Extreme_Boky is offline  
post #118 of 158 Old 08-02-2011, 03:04 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Extreme_Boky's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,130
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by raj_rios View Post

....I still found a way to short out the circtuit board which connects to the screen via ribbons. The television turned it self off soon after recognizing the short.........All advice appreciated, but obviously if I was going to take it to a shop I would have done so by now, so please try to direct your advice towards repair, not ridicule. Anybody know of a way to reset the TV using the Manufacturer service port, or some other trick? I'm seconds away from looking for a CMOS battery.....

Shorting the ribbon cable to the TV frame caused power supply failure, most likely.

Resetting, downloading firmware, resetting/removing the battery (there's no battery in TV's) will not fix the problem.

You have to get the service manual and check the voltages around power supply board. Look for the burnt out (open circuit) fuseable resistors, or blown fuses... to start with... The quickest fuse is actually the semiconductor device, so if you find the fuse blown -> you will most likely find the semiconductor(s) had shorted as well… and this will complicate the fault finding a fair bit in your case. Maybe just try the new board.

Based on your comments on what might be wrong AND the fact that knowledge in interpreting electronic schematics, as well as experience when working with power supply board is needed (!!!!Leather voltages!!!) -> I strongly suggest you take the TV to repair centre.

Boky
Extreme_Boky is offline  
post #119 of 158 Old 08-09-2011, 10:31 PM
Newbie
 
Rich106's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Outstanding post, OnlyTono! Thank you for all your effort to educate the rest of us.
I have a KDL-46VL130 which exhibited all the same problems as everyone else. I followed your excellent directions, and the TV is functioning perfectly. I realize this amounts to a "bubble gum and bailing wire" fix, but it is working and working well.
Of course, it was out of warranty and Sony could care less. I am so sick of manufacturers that distribute their products and then don't stand behind their performance. There is no excuse for this defective wirebonding.
This was the last Sony product I will ever purchase.
Rich106 is offline  
post #120 of 158 Old 08-09-2011, 11:47 PM
Member
 
fatenabu1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 21
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hello,

Not trying to Hijack a thread by my Sony Bravia KDL32-4000 is having issues with its screen. ON non-white screens/images i get grey shaded areas on the left middle and right of the screen. They appear to be a kind of burn in but I have tried the leaving it on a white screen and such to remove said burn in with no effect . The reason I think they are burn i is because the one on the right didn't appear till after I paused Smallville, went to get a glass of water and now have a shaded area on the right side of the screen in the shape of Lex's head.

I am going to try to post an image if it lets me I am new here.

Thanks,

Dustin
--image in next post--
fatenabu1 is offline  
Reply LCD Flat Panel Displays

Tags
Sony Bravia Xbr Kdl 32xbr4 32 Lcd Hdtv , Sony Bravia Xbr Kdl 52xbr4 52 Inch 1080p Lcd Hdtv , Sony Bravia Xbr Series Kdl 40xbr4 40 Inch 1080p Lcd Hdtv
Gear in this thread

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off