Official Sharp 52" LC-52SB57UN Owners Thread - Page 3 - AVS Forum
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post #61 of 301 Old 11-10-2009, 07:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is an article that explains that a THX movie can be used as a calibration disk:
http://www.hometheatermag.com/advice...perts/407cali/

Then please report your settings and setup for the rest of us.
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post #62 of 301 Old 11-10-2009, 07:40 PM
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link didnt work
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post #63 of 301 Old 11-10-2009, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by umx View Post

link didnt work

here you go
http://www.hometheatermag.com/advice...perts/407cali/

will try whenever i get home! (overtime is a bitch)
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post #64 of 301 Old 11-10-2009, 08:39 PM
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Just got one of these today - called yesterday after seeing the price still up online, and they honored the price. Pretty cool as the display model had the regular price.

Messed around with the settings a little, and I like it so far. With 1080P sources blows my '06 model 50" DLP away (obviously).

I have noticed some of the issues others have been talking about, and will play around with the fine motion/120hz, etc once I'm more used to the set.

One thing someone brought up, which I haven't seen an answer for yet - I have my HTPC connected via dvi/hdmi, with dot to dot (which I assume is 1:1 pixel mapping), and it cuts off about 1" on top and bottom, and 2" left and right. Didn't have this problem on my dlp at 1280x720 (native), and this one is set at 1920x1080 60hz. Any ideas?
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post #65 of 301 Old 11-10-2009, 10:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cris619 View Post

here you go
http://www.hometheatermag.com/advice...perts/407cali/

will try whenever i get home! (overtime is a bitch)

ffffffffffuuuuuuu! i recently moved and i still haven't brought all my DVDs to the new apartment so i have NO damn THX dvd at the new place! (just all my blu-rays)... i was looking forward to doing the calibration but now i'll have to wait 'til tomorrow after i pick up my old dvds...
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post #66 of 301 Old 11-10-2009, 10:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moro310 View Post

One thing someone brought up, which I haven't seen an answer for yet - I have my HTPC connected via dvi/hdmi, with dot to dot (which I assume is 1:1 pixel mapping), and it cuts off about 1" on top and bottom, and 2" left and right. Didn't have this problem on my dlp at 1280x720 (native), and this one is set at 1920x1080 60hz. Any ideas?

Are you sure you pressed the Aspect button until you got to "Dot by Dot" while the HTPC HDMI connection was bing displayed?

I have a HTPC with Geforce 6600GT hooked up via a DVI to HDMI converter and every pixel is shown at 1920x1080 59.94Hz (That is the correct refresh for ATSC television). I haven't tried 60Hz yet, because that would screw with all the HDTV shows I record and playback.
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post #67 of 301 Old 11-11-2009, 05:13 AM
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did anyone find out why hd programming doesn't look so good on this model?
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post #68 of 301 Old 11-11-2009, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkthrone View Post

did anyone find out why hd programming doesn't look so good on this model?

There could be any number of reasons/factors.

Just as a reference, I worked out some PPI numbers on 1080p and 720p sets to estimate pixel content in correlation to set size. (I am no expert on this so if my figures/calculations are off, please excuse me.) If you are coming from a smaller 1080p set, you might notice some of the differences in the pixel content though it is unlikely. However, any distortion on your HD feeds may become more prevalent on a larger display. A smaller display will sort of blend that distortion together and your eye will have a more difficult time picking it up with all of the pixel mapping. (Or at least this is what I can figure, thinking about it.)

Refer to the following PPI (Pixels Per Square Inch) Figures I have calculated:


37" @ 1080p = 3,546 PPI
40" @ 1080p = 3,034 PPI
42" @ 1080p = 2,752 PPI
46" @ 1080p = 2,294 PPI
52" @ 1080p = 1,795 PPI

37" @ 720p = 1,576 PPI
40" @ 720p = 1,348 PPI
42" @ 720p = 1,223 PPI
46" @ 720p = 1,019 PPI
52" @ 720p = 798 PPI

Now, PPI content does not necessarily determine picture quality. There are a host of factors. However, PPI is certainly something to consider when looking into the capabilities of your set. Have you taken notice of the display zone on the Sharp 52" when viewing HD content from your HD Box? It should display the display output of the HD feed there (Upper Right Hand Corner). You may find it not distributing 1080p, but rather 720p. I am still uncertain how 720p HD feeds would be distributed across a 1080p set, in regard to pixel mapping. In addition, I would just feel prone to say that the quality of your image is dependent solely upon the quality of your source. HD Services have come a long way, but I still feel that they are not True HD as they claim to be, and I work for a cable company.

There is such a wide host of factors for why the HD feeds are not at par with what I would believe to be a True HD Standard, and it will probably be some time before they ever get there.

This is to say that even if your HD Box is sending a 1080p signal to your set, there are a host of factors that can cause that HD Feed to be distorted somewhere on your providers network, or even in the conversions for displaying over HDMI to your set itself. Network feeds are delivered in a host of ways, and there is a ton of combining, re-combining, and signal changes that occur beyond the box installed in a home.

In short, your HD Service, although worlds above basic analog or digital service, is perhaps, not really the best source for HD Video. Some sets compensate for IQ (Image Quality) loss better than others. I am uncertain of why that is.

For instance: some HD Sets hooked up directly to a piece of coax for basic analog cable will display the picture of those channels at a much higher IQ than the same set connected through an HD Box watching the same exact analog channel as it passes through the HD Box and HDMI component into the set. There is some sort of scaling changes occurring that will dramatically affect the IQ of the feed. Those scaling changes can just wreak havoc on the set and I wouldn’t even know how to begin placing where the true issue lies.

So as I mentioned on the SlickDeals forum. The quality of the image on your set is dependent on the quality of the source. Regardless of how good you think your HD Box is, or your Service Provider, I would not use HD TV as a scale to measure quality/capabilities of a television set. Then again, maybe others would use that as a scale for the particular reason of how a set will handle different quality feeds. I just feel it is not a level playing field to really work with.

Last night I was watching HD TV through my 52” Sharp and I made a few adjustments to some levels and the picture quality seems adequate. I still have to discuss some box related options with my tech buds here in the cable industry, but I really don’t believe it will get much better than what I am seeing. Now, watching a local network in HD, the picture was rather sharp and clean. Within that local network, watching the news last night, they would input other network feeds for some of the stories they were airing, and instantly, the IQ would drop down, and I would pick up distortion and issues. This is a prime example of how many changes are being made in the programming you watch. Even commercials can often drop in IQ levels.

My Settings Thus Far:

A/V Mode: Standard
View Mode: Dot by Dot (When Available: Seems to be Source Compliant)

OPC: Off
Backlight: -8
Contrast: +32
Brightness: -1
Color: +2
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0

Advanced menu:
Fine Motion Enhanced: Off
Active Contrast: On
Film Mode: Standard (When Available: Seems to be Source Compliant)
Digital Noise Reduction: Off
Monochrome: Off
Range of OPC: [N/A]

Color Temp: Low/Med (Still playing with it.)

Power Control menu:
Power Saving: Off

I have yet to mess with the Hue/Saturation Levels and may play with that later as I see fit after the set breaks in more.

Haven't had all that much time to run more tests. But should be able to break out some Blu-Ray movies shortly to run this test through a fair standard.

PS3 Games look fantastic.
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post #69 of 301 Old 11-11-2009, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiribomb View Post

Can you other owners mute the tv and listen for a low level buzzing, I was getting that no matter what the sources is, I noticed that I could reduce or make it a little louder by turning off the OPC or playing around with the energy saving settings, it must have to do with controlling the light output, the circuity may use some sort of dimming to adjust for ambient lighting and power savings or the combination of the two.

I think I will be keeping this unit unless it can not be repaired by Sharp, I going to be pricing out a Mack warranty to protect my investment after the one year.

Tested for low level buzzing. No buzzing or humming while sound is muted.
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post #70 of 301 Old 11-11-2009, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkthrone View Post

did anyone find out why hd programming doesn't look so good on this model?

I had a JVC HDILA 52" 720p native set and this 52" Sharp blow it away on normal HD programming. Sports might have had a slightly better color tint on the JVC (I liked the green on the football field better), but I am still messing with the Sharps color calibration.

If you are running the TV in any kind of dynamic mode or enabling the Noise reduction that may be your problem.

I also need to turn the Sharpness control to +1 otherwise the Sharp LCD seems to slightly soften the image. (Any more than +1 and you can see Halos on text and other dark edges.)
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post #71 of 301 Old 11-11-2009, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TashunkaWitko View Post

Tested for low level buzzing. No buzzing or humming while sound is muted.

My Sharp is also dead silent (no buzzing).
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post #72 of 301 Old 11-11-2009, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhatHappend View Post

I had a JVC HDILA 52" 720p native set and this 52" Sharp blow it away on normal HD programming. Sports might have had a slightly better color tint on the JVC (I liked the green on the football field better), but I am still messing with the Sharps color calibration.

If you are running the TV in any kind of dynamic mode or enabling the Noise reduction that may be your problem.

I also need to turn the Sharpness control to +1 otherwise the Sharp LCD seems to slightly soften the image. (Any more than +1 and you can see Halos on text and other dark edges.)

Glad to hear you are seeing an improvement. 720p to 1080p on a 52" Set is a big step up. I would think it would be noticeable immediately in a side by side comparison.
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post #73 of 301 Old 11-11-2009, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TashunkaWitko View Post


For instance: some HD Sets hooked up directly to a piece of coax for basic analog cable will display the picture of those channels at a much higher IQ than the same set connected through an HD Box watching the same exact analog channel as it passes through the HD Box and HDMI component into the set. There is some sort of scaling changes occurring that will dramatically affect the IQ of the feed. Those scaling changes can just wreak havoc on the set and I wouldn’t even know how to begin placing where the true issue lies.

YES!

That's exactly it! My biggest gripe was how the Sharp 52" didn't look as RICH/SMOOTH on HD Programming as the Samsung 50" Plasma (720p)BECAUSE I _always_ had the Sammy hooked up directly via coax cable (no cable box). I also remember how the SAMSUNG first looked when i connected my brothers' Cox HD-Box cable and said to myself 'hmmm, i could have sworn it looked better before?' but didn't say much since a couple days later I had purchased this Sharp.

Thanks for the write-up and thanks for sharing your settings (will try them tonight after I remember to pick up my old DVDs so I can calibrate the picture via the THX test).

Glad more people are chiming in, the more the better.

PS. BLU-RAYS really looked ****ing great! I'm still on clown 9 about it. Pure 1080P BD-Disc is what makes this TV really shine and worthwhile. Still satisfied with my purchase. I just have to realize that the HD programming won't look as good as the Sammy via direct coax cable.
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post #74 of 301 Old 11-11-2009, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhatHappend View Post

My Sharp is also dead silent (no buzzing).

Same here
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post #75 of 301 Old 11-11-2009, 11:21 AM - Thread Starter
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With regards to the buzzing, I am not concerned as of yet, except that my unit was a floor model and more than likely had months of continuous hours on it. I would like to hear from anyone that has had this model for many months, but this gives me an excuse to get Sharp out here and do a free service call.

As I stated before the unmolested signal of a BD or HD disk though a player via hdmi will be the best to test this tv. MKV rips via htpc dvi to hdmi, will also be just as good, as well.

For broadcast shows OTA will be the true test for the live processing and motion blurr.

If you are receiving broadcasts from any type of box or cable provider, you must consider that the provider must capture the feed and then process it and send it though their network just to get to your tv.

All this hype about being in HD is just sales words, and must be backed up with the true resolution that it was originally produced within.

If you received a broadcast of a OTA show that with an antenna is recieved in 1080i, thats it, but the provider could try and manipulate it to another res just to try and sell it as better. HD

The first thing I watched that was on was the USC game on ESPN broadcast on KABC 7.1 in Los Angeles. It was broadcast at 720p or HD and was recieved by my antenna and to my tv as 720p. I did not see any blurr or un-natural movements, speed was consistent with natural motion. If you watch the display the commercials would then switch to 1080i as they were inserted at the local level and not part of the ESPN feed, the resolution would drop off and change, some of the commercials like for movie trailers that are modified for the Atsc broadcast were 720p and looked very good.

So just remember if it looks very good it due to the source being unmolested by the player, otherwise its not the tv, its the source or delivery method.

Some of the other brands or types i.e. Plasma have the inherent ability to reduce the defects and compensate for the variations to minimize them, this tv may not be as adept as those units, so consider that.
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post #76 of 301 Old 11-11-2009, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiribomb View Post

Some of the other brands or types i.e. Plasma have the inherent ability to reduce the defects and compensate for the variations to minimize them, this tv may not be as adept as those units, so consider that.

And this explains why my Samsung 50" Plasma 720p > Sharp 52" LCD 1080p on HD Programming

Plasma is such an awesome technology and I so wish the Sharp was one too. Also my eyes are just so used to it since I had it for a whole year.

But there's no way I would ever go back to my Samsung Plasma while watching Blu-ray movies...this is where the Sharp comes in handy by 10 folds.

(sorry if i'm starting to sound like a broken record, i just need to keep repeating this to myself so it sinks in )
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post #77 of 301 Old 11-11-2009, 11:50 AM - Thread Starter
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I would also like to see some energy usage comparisons with plasma and lcd's in this size, but i think that the specs give us an idea of it.
If anyone has a kilawatt or other measuring device handy and own this tv, i would like to see some info and compare it to the stated usage.
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post #78 of 301 Old 11-11-2009, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiribomb View Post

All this hype about being in HD is just sales words, and must be backed up with the true resolution that it was originally produced within.

Indeed. All about the source, quality of that source, as well as the format for the original picture.

As you and I mentioned, some sets just compensate for IQ loss better than others, and even then there is a wide array of factors playing into it.

It's like the difference between Upscaling DVD vs. Blu-Ray. DVD standard is 480i/480p. Upscaling DVD takes that 480i/480p and renders the same source image with maping for a 720p/1080i/1080p format/output. However, the true image quality will really never render beyond 480i/480p which is the source. It may look better than 480i/480p standard on the HD Set, as the scale maping is taking that source image and breaking it down to a higher resolution, but it will never be at scale with a true 1080p source.

With new movies in Blu-Ray, it is fairly certain that the source image will be true 1080p. This is why Blu-Ray represents what I believe to be a true test for the resolution/capability of an HD Set.
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post #79 of 301 Old 11-11-2009, 12:00 PM - Thread Starter
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I just saw this one go on sale, anybody have any insight, to the differences of the two tv's
http://slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1656469

http://www.sharpusa.com/ForHome/Home...LC52D85UN.aspx

What I have found with companies that produce products that range from top tier to entry level is that eventually those technologies or components filter down to the entry level as continuing supported by the manufacturer. Or that they contain the same components but some of the features are not enabled.

http://www.sharpusa.com/ForHome/Home...C52SB57UN.aspx

More information on the 8 vs. 10 bit panel:
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...3172842AAThMWr
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post #80 of 301 Old 11-11-2009, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chiribomb View Post

I was looking at the user manual and my remote does not look like the one in the manual, what remote do you guys have, mine has the id as GA667WJSA on the front of it.


I just saw this one go on sale, anybody have any insight, to the differences of the two tv's
http://slickdeals.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1656469

http://www.sharpusa.com/ForHome/Home...LC52D85UN.aspx

What I have found with companies that produce products that range from top tier to entry level is that eventually those technologies or components filter down to the entry level as continuing supported by the manufacturer. Or that they contain the same components but some of the features are not enabled.

http://www.sharpusa.com/ForHome/Home...C52SB57UN.aspx

More information on the 8 vs. 10 bit panel:
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...3172842AAThMWr

It seems to be the case that the big difference in the units would be in the panel type. I believe the panel used for the LCD Display in the LC52SB57UN uses a panel type that was developed for the Aquos SB Series released in 2008. However, that series seems to have a few different specs than the LC52SB57UN set. Again, it looks like this is the new "Budget Model" and although it doesn't receive the "AQUOS" stamp, it probably would have received that stamp back in 2008. I couldn't clarify if it was an 8 bit panel. The model you referenced and linked for the LC52D85UN is of the D-85 model series and is confirmed to have that 10 bit panel you referenced.

I would say that some of the other components/parts in the LC52SB57UN have been upgraded to better standards, which would result in better response time and viewing angles than the 2008 AQUOS SB series. (4ms Response vs 6ms Response of prior SB models.)

Many of the specs seem to be pretty at par with one another between the LC52D85UN and LC52SB57UN models.

A bit older technology on the panel, otherwise, upgraded to better components from what I can gather.

Still a great value if you ask me, especially considering the list price of the 52" SB Series as of August 2008 was over $2000.00.

References:
http://www.hdtvlounge.net/sharp/sb-series/
http://www.itechnews.net/2008/08/05/...ies-lcd-hdtvs/
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post #81 of 301 Old 11-11-2009, 01:52 PM
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^ awesome. thanks for the info.

makes me feel even BETTER about my purchase.
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post #82 of 301 Old 11-11-2009, 02:44 PM - Thread Starter
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So now I am shopping for a Mack warranty and am looking at this one:
http://www.mackcam.com/servicecontra...=86&row_id=175
Ranges from 90 to 120, bing cb or other.

Before you buy a warranty you must verify that it is the correct one by the MFG#.
Since this is a new retail unit that was sold for under 1k and has a screen size larger than 32" that is what you should be looking for and determines the basis of coverage, because if you bought the tv for over 1k then it would be a different coverage, so avoid auctions that say warranty for Sharp model number or similar as that does not represent the price paid for the tv and you could be getting a warranty for the tv as if it was sold for 3k, your still covered but you paid to much for the warranty.

Example:
http://www.adorama.com/IMXWHT5YC2.ht...57977568670103

Just remember this does not cover a bulb as the warranty states, I just do not know what the bulb is or if it is replaceable ect, I wonder how they are going to handle the LED model tv's.

I states on the Sharp info that bulb should last for thousands of hours, but this is well beyond the 1st year


On ebay type in mack warranty tv and choose either 3 or 5 year.
You can google it also, but remember these sellers are just middle men so a auction is the best way to get one if the price is best.

I think buyitnow still works with bing for cashback.

I did it when it was live cashback and at 25%, slick

Examples:

MFG # 1050 3 year on site for tv under 1k about $89
http://cgi.ebay.com/Mack-In-Home-3-Y...item45eee1e90b
MFG # 1005 3 year carry in for tv under 1k about $50
http://cgi.ebay.com/Mack-Carry-in-3-...item45ef283c23


MFG # 1402 5 year in home for tv under 1k about $120
http://www.adorama.com/IMXWHT5YA.html
http://www.mackcam.com/servicecontra...=86&row_id=175
Once sold and received the cert is registered with mack and mack handles all claims.

It looks like the bulb warranty is the 1065, but that is for projectors, I have that warranty and have used it for 1 bulb and was reimbursed the 300 that it cost to replace my bulb that went out after 2000 hours and a couple of blackouts which caused the cooling fan to stop and in my opinion reduced the life of the bulb, I eliminated that with a Battery Backed UPS

So now to do the research on bulb and backlight replacements.

Also do not forget that you do not have to purchase the Warranty until:

This service contract may be purchased for New Products with at least ninety (90) days remaining on the original manufacturer’s warranty. You must register this warranty within thirty (30) days with Mack Camera by visiting us at our website www.mackcam.com or by calling us toll free at 1-800-252-MACK (6225) or 973-467-2291.
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post #83 of 301 Old 11-11-2009, 02:50 PM
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Thanks for posting your setting. Will try them tonight (I'm pretty close from what I recall.


Indeed PS3 games looks FANTASTIC on it.

Uncharted 2... OMG

Quote:
Originally Posted by TashunkaWitko View Post

There could be any number of reasons/factors.

Just as a reference, I worked out some PPI numbers on 1080p and 720p sets to estimate pixel content in correlation to set size. (I am no expert on this so if my figures/calculations are off, please excuse me.) If you are coming from a smaller 1080p set, you might notice some of the differences in the pixel content though it is unlikely. However, any distortion on your HD feeds may become more prevalent on a larger display. A smaller display will sort of blend that distortion together and your eye will have a more difficult time picking it up with all of the pixel mapping. (Or at least this is what I can figure, thinking about it.)

Refer to the following PPI (Pixels Per Square Inch) Figures I have calculated:


37" @ 1080p = 3,546 PPI
40" @ 1080p = 3,034 PPI
42" @ 1080p = 2,752 PPI
46" @ 1080p = 2,294 PPI
52" @ 1080p = 1,795 PPI

37" @ 720p = 1,576 PPI
40" @ 720p = 1,348 PPI
42" @ 720p = 1,223 PPI
46" @ 720p = 1,019 PPI
52" @ 720p = 798 PPI

Now, PPI content does not necessarily determine picture quality. There are a host of factors. However, PPI is certainly something to consider when looking into the capabilities of your set. Have you taken notice of the display zone on the Sharp 52" when viewing HD content from your HD Box? It should display the display output of the HD feed there (Upper Right Hand Corner). You may find it not distributing 1080p, but rather 720p. I am still uncertain how 720p HD feeds would be distributed across a 1080p set, in regard to pixel mapping. In addition, I would just feel prone to say that the quality of your image is dependent solely upon the quality of your source. HD Services have come a long way, but I still feel that they are not True HD as they claim to be, and I work for a cable company.

There is such a wide host of factors for why the HD feeds are not at par with what I would believe to be a True HD Standard, and it will probably be some time before they ever get there.

This is to say that even if your HD Box is sending a 1080p signal to your set, there are a host of factors that can cause that HD Feed to be distorted somewhere on your providers network, or even in the conversions for displaying over HDMI to your set itself. Network feeds are delivered in a host of ways, and there is a ton of combining, re-combining, and signal changes that occur beyond the box installed in a home.

In short, your HD Service, although worlds above basic analog or digital service, is perhaps, not really the best source for HD Video. Some sets compensate for IQ (Image Quality) loss better than others. I am uncertain of why that is.

For instance: some HD Sets hooked up directly to a piece of coax for basic analog cable will display the picture of those channels at a much higher IQ than the same set connected through an HD Box watching the same exact analog channel as it passes through the HD Box and HDMI component into the set. There is some sort of scaling changes occurring that will dramatically affect the IQ of the feed. Those scaling changes can just wreak havoc on the set and I wouldn't even know how to begin placing where the true issue lies.

So as I mentioned on the SlickDeals forum. The quality of the image on your set is dependent on the quality of the source. Regardless of how good you think your HD Box is, or your Service Provider, I would not use HD TV as a scale to measure quality/capabilities of a television set. Then again, maybe others would use that as a scale for the particular reason of how a set will handle different quality feeds. I just feel it is not a level playing field to really work with.

Last night I was watching HD TV through my 52 Sharp and I made a few adjustments to some levels and the picture quality seems adequate. I still have to discuss some box related options with my tech buds here in the cable industry, but I really don't believe it will get much better than what I am seeing. Now, watching a local network in HD, the picture was rather sharp and clean. Within that local network, watching the news last night, they would input other network feeds for some of the stories they were airing, and instantly, the IQ would drop down, and I would pick up distortion and issues. This is a prime example of how many changes are being made in the programming you watch. Even commercials can often drop in IQ levels.

My Settings Thus Far:

A/V Mode: Standard
View Mode: Dot by Dot (When Available: Seems to be Source Compliant)

OPC: Off
Backlight: -8
Contrast: +32
Brightness: -1
Color: 0
Tint: 0
Sharpness: 0

Advanced menu:
Fine Motion Enhanced: Off
Active Contrast: On
Film Mode: Standard (When Available: Seems to be Source Compliant)
Digital Noise Reduction: Off
Monochrome: Off
Range of OPC: [N/A]

Color Temp: Low/Med (Still playing with it.)

Power Control menu:
Power Saving: Off

I have yet to mess with the Hue/Saturation Levels and may play with that later as I see fit after the set breaks in more.

Haven't had all that much time to run more tests. But should be able to break out some Blu-Ray movies shortly to run this test through a fair standard.

PS3 Games look fantastic.

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post #84 of 301 Old 11-11-2009, 05:08 PM
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I will be mounting the TV on the wall in my bedroom. I have 9 foot ceilings in my bedroom. Can someone tell me what the recommended height from the floor to the middle of the TV... Any links to a guide on the internet will be helpful....
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post #85 of 301 Old 11-11-2009, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pglover19 View Post

I will be mounting the TV on the wall in my bedroom. I have 9 foot ceilings in my bedroom. Can someone tell me what the recommended height from the floor to the middle of the TV... Any links to a guide on the internet will be helpful....

here's a good blog with lots of useful instructions/guide on how to properly mount an LCD/Plasma.

http://www.hometheaterblog.com/homet...lcd-or-plasma/

and for the mount:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009JR42E

incredible reviews from amazon buyers and the guy in the above blog highly recommends it.
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post #86 of 301 Old 11-11-2009, 06:18 PM
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I used 3Ms Vikuiti LCD setup guide DVD to calibrate.

Started with Standard mode and ended with these settings
View mode: Dot by Dot
OPC: Off
Backlight: -6
Contrast: +32
Brightness: +2
Color: +2
Tint: 2
Sharpness: 1

Advanced menu:
Fine Motion Enhanced: Off
Active Contrast: On
Film Mode: advanced(low)
Digital Noise Reduction: Off
Monochrome: Off
Range of OPC: [N/A]

CMS Hue menu:
No changes

CMS Saturation menu:
No changes

Color Temp menu:
Mid-low

Power Control menu:
Power Saving: Off
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post #87 of 301 Old 11-11-2009, 06:29 PM
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So should i leave fine motion on or off ?
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post #88 of 301 Old 11-11-2009, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by umx View Post

So should i leave fine motion on or off ?

it's personal preferece...do you enjoy the 120mhz? (sometimes feels as the movie is 'sped' up).

i like it (really awesome on HD sports and blu-ray movies).

aiyer: thanks for sharing! will definitely try those (and of course have dot by dot selected!).
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post #89 of 301 Old 11-11-2009, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cris619 View Post

here's a good blog with lots of useful instructions/guide on how to properly mount an LCD/Plasma.

http://www.hometheaterblog.com/homet...lcd-or-plasma/

and for the mount:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009JR42E

incredible reviews from amazon buyers and the guy in the above blog highly recommends it.

The blog did not mention anything about the distance from the floor to the middle of the TV when mounted on the wall... Trying to determine the height from the floor to the middle of the TV when mounting....
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post #90 of 301 Old 11-11-2009, 06:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pglover19 View Post

I will be mounting the TV on the wall in my bedroom. I have 9 foot ceilings in my bedroom. Can someone tell me what the recommended height from the floor to the middle of the TV... Any links to a guide on the internet will be helpful....

There are a few thing to consider when mounting, are you going to be watching only from your bed, do you change your bedroom layout around or never.

Does the mount have enough movement to be truly flexible.

Thank god the weight is only about 60 pounds, but i have a 32" older model that weighs this much, and this what i used:

I bought mine at Home Depot so that if I did not like it, I could just take it back, good luck getting to try before you buy.
Use of a lowes 10% off coupon is also helpful.

I chose an articulating arm style that allows movement in 2 axises or left/right, in/out from the wall and viewing angle.

So as far as where you want the center of the tv or mount, i choose my eye level or about 5'7".

I have read that some people who do not prop themselves up with pillows like to mount it on the ceiling so that they are lying flat and looking almost straight up. Sounds like pron lovers

Another good center point is the center of pictures or artwork in the room.

The reason I like the arm style is if I am sitting somewhere or standing in the room doing something else I can pull it out and turn it towards me, and it allows for easly cleaning behind it.

For mounting you got to make sure that at least 2 screws hit the stud, and that can cause it to be mounted in not the perfect spot, so the arm range of motion makes up for that, also for the mount, the screws, that do not hit the studs, you should use a toggle bolt or T bolt.

HD has some nice ones that the T collapses and goes thru a 1/2 hole and then springs out inside the wall to be a T so that the force is distributed out kind of like a grappling hook behind the Drywall.

Good luck and report back.
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