Samsung 8500 Series Calibration/Settings - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 632 Old 12-09-2009, 04:16 PM - Thread Starter
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This is a thread to share technical information, particularly on calibration/settings of the 8500 series. Please do not post any thing other than the above topic as there are two other threads on this set as follows:
Here are other information/useful links as well:


If you are new to using these settings, my suggestion is to do them in this order to get the maximum variety of bases to home in on. The goal is to identify which other calibrator's have the closest base as yours so you can use their settings:
  1. My LATEST settings (look for the date).
  2. David's ORIGINAL settings
  3. CNet's ORIGINAL settings
If my latest setting works okay for you, then it may be safe to assume we have a similar base and you may then want to try other settings calibrated to my set just to see which works best for you.

You may also want to try to take advantage of the 8500's BLUE ONLY MODE to calibrate basic color/tint yourself after establishing what may be a good base to start following the steps I documented here.

-----
Firmware History:
To check your firmware version, click MENU/SUPPORT/Software Upgrade.
If your TV is plugged into the Internet, it will notify you of the update (sometimes in very distracting ways -- in the middle of a playback!) Or, you can manually go to the Software Upgrade screen to effect the update.

1009 - Corrects crop-circle effect (downgrade to 1008 allowed)
1008 - ?
1006 - Seen on Oct 2009 55" units
1005 - Seen on Aug 2009 46" units

For Build Date:
Build date and manufacturing location is located on the original box. However, if you no longer have the box, you can try to decode the build date from the serial number of your unit. On the 81F series, the 9th digit is the build month. 1-9=Jan-September, A-C=October through December. Judging from the serial number format of the 8500, it is probably the same. You have to guess the year since these are normally manufactured only within 12 months of release it is implied which year it was made by the month.

-----

Before you begin, you may want to locate a copy of a LUCAS FILM/DISNEY DVD/BLU-RAY that has the special feature called THX Optimizer -- it is commonly included on deluxe/special editions discs. You can use that to fine-tune the brightness for your environment. Brightness is highly subjective especially due to background lighting conditions in your room, and the 8500 calibration has shown that adjusting brightness has negligible impact on the final color tuning.

Calibration Settings Tested: (for a list of legends of what the abbreviations mean, read BOLD letters further down)

Manufactured:

Mexico, October 2009
Firmware: 1009
Size: 55"
Calibration Equipment: Sencore CP5000 ColorPro IV

Mode:

Movie using Warm2 (as of 2/4/2010)
_(Primary Use: Media Player, Blue-ray/DVD Players @ 24Hz as sources - daytime/nighttime use)
_RGB-Color Range Limited Device and 8500 HDMI-Low settings.
BL-10,C-86,B-52/45,S-*,CO-51,G50
BT-Off, DC-Off,GM-(-1),LMP-Off
CS-Custom: R(50,0,0) G(0,50,0) B(0,0,50) Y(50,35,0) C(0,50,63) M(50,0,52)
White Balace: WRO-21,WGO-23,WBO-21,WRG-16,WGG-26,WBG-29
CT-Warm2,SL-On

Mode:

Movie using Warm2 (as of 2/4/2010) RECALIBRATED davidjschenk's Settings
_(Primary Use: Media Player, Blue-ray/DVD Players @ 24Hz as sources - daytime/nighttime use)
_RGB-Color Range Limited Device and 8500 HDMI-Low settings.
BL-10,C-86,B-52/45,S-*,CO-54,G52
BT-Off, DC-Off,GM-(-1),LMP-Off
CS-Custom: (R-39,0,0)(G-28,45,19)(B-0,0,33)(Y-53,35,19)(CY-19,48,49)(MA-37,17,39)
White Balace: WRO-26,WGO-25,WBO-22,WRG-12,WGG-26,WBG-32
CT-Warm2,SL-On

Mode:

Movie using Normal (as of 01/25/2010)
_(Primary Use: Media Player, Blue-ray/DVD Players @ 24Hz as sources - daytime/nighttime use)
_RGB-Color Range Limited Device and 8500 HDMI-Low settings.
BL-10,C-86,B-44,S-*,CO-54,G51
BT-Off, DC-Off,GM-(-1),CS-Auto,LMP-Off
White Balace: WRO-33,WGO-34,WBO-29,WRG-45,WGG-33,WBG-4
CT-Normal,SL-On


Personal Preference:
  • AMP-Custom,Judd-2,Blur-0
    Use Judd-3 or lower if you are bothered by soap-opera effect.
    Stay as high below 3 as possible to improve motion resolution.
    Use Blur>0 only if your source cannot resolve interpolation properly.
  • ES-Auto
    Saves energy? - manual is unclear how this works.
  • LMP-On
    Improves motion resolution at the cost of brightness - I turn this off during day-time viewing.


Recalibrated CNet Settings

Mode:

Movie using Warm2 (as of 12/28/2009)
_(Primary Use: Dark Environments with 1080p HDMI film-based materials)
Build Date: 10/2009
Firmware: 1006
Size: 55" (originally calibrated by CNet on 46")
BL-8,C-97,B-45,S-0,CO-53,G51
BT-Off, DC-Off,GM-(-1),CS-Auto,LMP-On
White Balace: WRO-19,WGO-25,WBO-22,WRG-12,WGG-22,WBG-22
HDMI-Normal,CT-Warm2,SL-On
CNet's Other Preference:
  • AMP-Custom,Judd-0,Blur-10
  • ES-Off
  • LMP-On

----- This section is for other sources that use equipment to perform calibration -----


joeracerx's Latest Settings

Mode:

Movie using Warm2
_(Primary Use: HD-Cable,Movies)
Build Date: December 2009
Firmware: 1009
Size: 55"
Calibration Equipment: Chroma5 (LED Calibrated) and Calman
Samsung 8500 Calibration Sheet

Second set of numbers are for bright rooms.
BL-6/10,C-80/90,B-44,S-6,CO-53,G50
GM-(-1)
CS-Custom: (R-26,3,0)(G-35,41,17)(B-0,11,30)(Y-52,46,16)(CY-31,45,47)(MA-26,13,35)
White Balace: WRO-25,WGO-25,WBO-23,WRG-46,WGG-25,WBG-23
EE-On,FT-0,DC-Off,BT-Off,CT-Warm2,SL-On
Other Preference:
  • DNR-Off,FT-Off,ES-Off,xvYCC-Off,FM-Auto1,AutoMotion-B10J3


muski's Latest Settings

Mode:

Movie using Warm1
_(Primary Use: Oppo BDP-83 DVD/Blu-Ray, darkened room use)
Build Date: November 2009
Firmware: 1009
Size: 46"
Calibration Equipment: Eye One Display 2
BL-7,C-73,B-44,S-*,CO-43,G50
GM-(-1)
CS-Custom: (R-50,0,0)(G-21,58,23)(B-13,0,52)(Y-45,54,23)(CY-32,54,53)(MA-49,0,52)
White Balace: WRO-27,WGO-26,WBO-24,WRG-47,WGG-19,WBG-40
EE-Off,FT-0,DC-Off,BT-Off,CT-Warm1,SL-On
Other Preference:
  • AMP-Custom,Judd-2,Blur-5
  • SS-Screen Fit
  • DNR-Off

davidjschenk's Latest Settings

Mode:

Movie using Warm2
_(Primary Use: Unspecified)
Build Date: Unknown
Firmware: Unknown
Size: Unknown
Calibration Equipment:
BL-5,C-86,B-47,S-*,CO-50,G50
GM-(-1)
CS-Custom: (R-39,4,0)(G-28,45,19)(B-0,15,33)(Y-53,47,19)(CY-19,48,49)(MA-37,17,39)
White Balace: WRO-25,WGO-25,WBO-20,WRG-43,WGG-26,WBG-32
CT-Warm2,SL-On
Other Preference:
  • AMP-Custom,Judd-2,Blur-10
  • SS-Screen Fit
  • DNR-Off


-
----- The following are settings that were posted in this thread and was confirmed usable by others


oland's Settings

Mode:

Standard using NORMAL
Build Date: 9/30/09
Firmware: 1009
Size: 46"

_Primary Use: STB
_Tried by: dirthawg 1/26/10, jyupitt 2/16/10
BL-4,C-85,B-42,S-40,CO-50,G50
BT-Off,DC-Medium,GM-0,CS-Native
White Balace: Default WRO-25,WGO-25,WBO-25,WRG-25,WGG-25,WBG-25
[color="DarkOrange"]FT-0
CT-Normal,SL-On
Other Preferences:
  • EE-0
  • SS-16:9
  • DNR-Off
  • HDMI-Low
  • FM-Auto2
  • LMP-Off
  • AMP-Off

_Primary Use: Blu-ray (^=changes from the previous section)
BL-5^,C-90^,B-43^,S-40,CO-50,G50
BT-Off,DC-Medium,GM-0,CS-Native
White Balace: Default WRO-25,WGO-25,WBO-25,WRG-25,WGG-25,WBG-25
[color="DarkOrange"]FT-0
CT-Normal,SL-On
Other Preferences:
  • EE-0
  • SS-16:9
  • DNR-Off
  • HDMI-Low
  • FM-Auto1^
  • LMP-Off
  • AMP-Off

After doing a cursory search in the above threads, it seems that there are very few posts actually pertaining to the tuning of the sets and hence I have taken the liberty to start this.

First, a little background -

I am a videophile only in the sense that I watch at least three full-length features per week from either Blu-ray, DVD, or such original sources (I do not count over-the-air, cable, or satellites -- even if they are in HD). Because of this, I do demand a fair amount of reproduction accuracy.

As a long time owner of the first generation Samsung Local Dimming LED LCD set (over two years), I have recently added the Samsung 8500 (3rd generation local dimming technology). I missed the opportunity to grab a 950 (2nd generation) when they were being cleared out (it was better than the 81F marginally and at clearance prices they were well worth it) but was won over by the 8500's improvement in areas particularly relating to apparent color depth, contrast improvement (new dimming logic as well as increased zone count), and size (55" vs the previous 52" 81F), and lastly the ability to fine tune even more settings outside of the service menu than the 950 did. It has now replaced the 81F as the main set and the 81F is retired to the bed room. I must summarize by saying that the 81F is a great set and has delivered as promised without any repair issues - and I hope the 8500 continues in this tradition for many years to come.

As a side note, I did own a Pioneer Plasma for about 2 years, and many many Sony XBR CRTs prior to that.

Before you perform changes, it may save you more time by performing a PICTURE RESET (back to factory default) first. It is the last menu option in the Pictures Menu.

(calibration settings section moved to top of this post for ease of access)

Problems to Date:
Date/time of discovery, firmware & description.
  • CROP CIRCLE EFFECT fw-1008
    01/06/2010 ~10am
    01/12/2010 ~ 6pm
    Immediately upon power up in the morning. Photo taken of incident.
  • DRYING-UP EFFECT fw-1008
    01/06/2010 ~10am
    01/12/2010 ~ 6pm
    Effect similar to watching time lapsed video of water line drying up. This is most pronounced when testing SCREEN SIZE modes - changing from Wide Fit/4:3/Screen Fit.
    Preliminary conclusion is effect shows during "rescaling." The same effect is noticed when media server is switching modes/repainting an image.
  • DEVICE MODE NOT SUPPORTED MESSAGE WITH MEDIA SERVER fw-1008
    01/12/2010 ~ 6pm
    Fixed by rebooting Media Server.

It may also be helpful to know some unverified issues reported by others, following the reporting user name/ID.
  • oland: Lip-sync issue passing HDMI through Harman Kardon and Denon AVR-590 Receivers using PS3 as Blu-ray player. (reported solution was to adjust audio sync delay in receiver to match)
Please help me keep this list useful and current by notifying me if you have resolved the issues and how it was resolved.

Comparasion to First Generation 81F:
Improvement in nearly all areas.
  • 55" vs. 52" Screen Size
  • Ultra-clear LCD Panel
  • Deep color support
  • Extra HDMI port
  • 240Hz Anti-Judder/Anti-Blur modes
  • Additional 24Hz source input Support vs. only 60Hz
  • Internet Widgets
  • Limited Network Media Server Support vs. None
  • Physical Thickness & Weight Reduced
  • Loss of S-Video Port
  • Blue-tinge of blooming at extreme angle viewing (>80 degrees)

All other post-processing enhancements that are more or less specific to picture quality changes to local regions are turned off, such as Dynamic Blacks, since they will do more to distort the image on digital sources than help them. However, I do use them for non-critical viewing sources like non-HD cable, or video tapes, etc.

To save typing, short-hand abbreviations are as follows for all future posting (as they generally appear in same order as in the menus). A value of * means it is a matter of personal preference.

BL-Backlight, C-Contrast, B-Brightness, S-Sharpness, CO-Color, Tint-Gxx
BT-Black Tone, DC-Dynamic Contrast, GM-Gamma, CS-Color Space, FT-Flesh Tone, EE-Edge Enhancement
WRO-White-Balance (WB) Red Offset, WGO-WB Green Offset, WBO-WB Blue Offset, WRG-WB Red Gain, WGG-WB Green Gain, WBG-WB Blue Gain
LMP-LED Motion Plus, CT-Color Tone, DNR-Digital Noise Reduction, HDMI-HDMI Black Level, FM-Film Mode, SS-Screen Size,AMP-Auto Motion Pro, SL-Smart LED, ES-Energy Saver

My goal, as was with the 81F series, was to find the "best picture" with the minimal amount of setting changes from the factory preset for both DAY & NIGHT VIEWING to bring the picture closest to the 6500K ideal as possible. A lot of readers of this forum may prefer to thinker with settings on their own first to see if it is acceptable to them before shelling out money for calibrations that require touching the service menus, which can also void the warranty.

This is by no means the end of my experiment. I try to give a few weeks of viewing for all the calibrated changed to make sure I'm not just too used to seeing the picture a certain way to reduce settlement bias.

While most readers on the forum already know this, I must repeat that my settings are those appropriate for my particular set. Due to variances in electronic components and the manufacturing process, it is entirely possible what works on my set may not reflect what you see -- even if they came out of the same factory on the same batch (if only all the internal circuit boards came in the same batch and the service menu numbers are equally dialed!). However, I am still hopeful that at least it will form a decent basis for those of you who would like to thinker with your own settings, especially if you have a calibration disc like Avia or Digital Essentials to perform your own validation and fine tuning.

That out of the way, please use these settings for what they are worth, and let me know if you have any suggestions within my original goal, and I may be able to help you verify some changes using my Sencore.


Enjoy!

-----

In case Samsung is listening, here is a wish list of features if more local dimming sets are planned:
  • Option to automatically turn on LMP for night time viewing versus day time viewing using photo-sensor as trigger
  • Option to adjust the sensitivity of the photo sensor if it is implemented for LMP triggering
  • Option to toggle LMP and/or BACKLIGHT value via a single button on the remote for those that prefer to have manual control.
  • Option on remote to toggle AMP settings with a single button push
  • Build in to the USB logic so a USB/Wirless USB keyboard can be attached to the TV's USB port and used to better utilize the Internet/widget features. Using the TV remote and a virtual keyboard is not quite as user friendly as a real keyboard. This capability is already done on NMT's like Popcorn Hour and should not be that hard to implement.
  • Option to pass-through toslink optical in to toslink optical out without going through the decode/encode processing so that a receiver can be put on the toslink out of the TV and not lose the digital raw signal. As it is right now it is not very useful since only 2-channel stereo analog out is allowed when the TV can ideally be used as the switcher instead. By straight pass-through of optical there is no violation of copyright possibility as dictated in the HDMI.
  • Incorporate the Sigma decoding chipset (network media tank NMT) in the TV so media players like the Popcorn Hour can be eliminated. The existing media playing functionality is good but very limited leading to the need to still keep media players and results in using an additional network connection plus more energy consumption.
  • Restore the S-Video input. There is just too many legacy devices that can benefit from this input to have it eliminated.

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- Quality & Price!
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post #2 of 632 Old 12-12-2009, 01:28 PM
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Does anyone know how to enter the service menu on the 8500s?
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post #3 of 632 Old 12-13-2009, 03:29 PM
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Boy, there must not be many 8500 owners. In an effort to keep this going, I will offer up my "Natural" settings. I don't really like the movie mode for normal TV programming or sports. Yahoo, I will give your settings a try the next time I do some movie watching. Right now, I am watching the Cowboys and Chargers and the following settings look very good, but welcome any advise;

Firmware is 1008. The below is done by "eye" with no calibration tools, etc. Source is Comcast cable at 1080i.

Natural, Backlight 8, contrast 93, Brightness 47, Sharpness 25, Color 50, Tint 49/51

Picture options: Color tone/Normal, HDMI Black at Low, Auto Motion @ 5 blur/ 3 judder, everything else is off.

I'm also playing around with some Standard settings that I will post later.
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post #4 of 632 Old 12-13-2009, 07:02 PM
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I own one (46). I'm trying to smooth out some uglies that I've seen this past week.

Motion seems to be the worst problem so far but fixed with judder and motion settings.

Lizard Attack:


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post #5 of 632 Old 12-15-2009, 03:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A10 Titan View Post

Does anyone know how to enter the service menu on the 8500s?

The steps to access the service menu is the same as the 81F, but I have not tried it since merely "activating it" will clear all your settings, and I'm not ready to go in there yet until I have exhausted all the tuning options in the main menus first.

CAUTION: Entering the Service Menu MAY void your manufacturer's warranty. Haphazardly changing the menu options may render your TV useless.

Here are the steps:
  1. Turn TV off.
  2. On the TV's remote, push MUTE 1 8 2 and then POWER. All your settings are restored to factory default.
  3. Push POWER to exit service menu, which powers off the TV and saves settings.

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post #6 of 632 Old 12-17-2009, 12:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yahoo View Post

I believe the steps to access the menu is the same as for the 81F, but I have not tried it since merely "activating it" will clear all your settings, and I'm not ready to go in there yet until I have exhausted all the tuning options in the main menus first.

Here are the steps:
  1. Turn TV off.
  2. On the TV's remote, push MUTE 1 8 2 and then POWER. All your settings are restored to factory default.
  3. Push POWER to exit service menu, which powers off the TV and saves settings.

Anyone who tries it let me know if it works so I can put this information in post #1. Thanks.

Thanks. Mine should be in next month and I know myself; I will play with all menus.
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post #7 of 632 Old 12-17-2009, 07:26 PM
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I have recently purchased the 55 inch 8500 series. When I enable the "LED Motion Plus" feature the screen is cut in half. One half appears to have the feature enabled while the other half has no change. Has anyone else had this issue? I have tried to change the image modes and also reset the image settings. I am still within my 30 day return/exchange period just hoping to get this resolved without having to resort to that. If everyone's is working fine would you mind posting your firmware version.
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post #8 of 632 Old 12-17-2009, 08:29 PM - Thread Starter
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I believe you have the Smart LED in DEMO mode in Picture options. Check that...

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yahoo View Post

I believe you have the Smart LED in DEMO mode in Picture options. Check that...

Wouldn't it be showing "DEMO" mode?
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post #10 of 632 Old 12-18-2009, 02:51 AM - Thread Starter
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It's been a long time since I tried that on the 81F. Just tested on the 8500 and it does say "Smart LED OFF" and "Smart LED ON" on each half so that may indicate the unit is stuck in the DEMO mode when the LED Motion Plus is engaged.

NECLT240K - are the halves top and bottom or left to right?

By the way I presume you own(ed) an LT240K?

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post #11 of 632 Old 12-18-2009, 09:34 AM
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Thanks for your responses, Yahoo I own an NEC and had been a great projector for quite some time, little outdated but still going strong! As for your question, It split right down the center of the tv, left of the screen has the motion plus enabled and the right does not. I have checked to ensure that the demo mode is not enabled and also avoided making any changes except enabling the led motion plus. I contacted samsung regarding a service request though woud you recomend just exchanging the tv as that I am still within the 30 day return period?
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post #12 of 632 Old 12-18-2009, 09:47 AM
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Thanks so much Yahoo for posting the calibration, i tried it last night and it looks fantastic for tv and movies. Great job, i tried using one of those calibration blu rays and it's too complicated!
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post #13 of 632 Old 12-18-2009, 11:03 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NECLT240K View Post

Thanks for your responses, Yahoo I own an NEC and had been a great projector for quite some time, little outdated but still going strong! As for your question, It split right down the center of the tv, left of the screen has the motion plus enabled and the right does not. I have checked to ensure that the demo mode is not enabled and also avoided making any changes except enabling the led motion plus. I contacted samsung regarding a service request though woud you recomend just exchanging the tv as that I am still within the 30 day return period?

Sounds like it is STUCK in demo mode alright, just without the text.

Yes I would exchange it out since it is a pretty expensive TV to take chances on.

Coincidentally I owned a 150 and upgraded to the 150Z and also have a 240K. Great projectors for big screen but no match for this LCD when it comes to daily use (energy, bulb life, color depth.... Still waiting for that "perfect" projector that uses LED as bulb(s) that can play during daytime!

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post #14 of 632 Old 12-18-2009, 11:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CdnHockeyNut View Post

Thanks so much Yahoo for posting the calibration, i tried it last night and it looks fantastic for tv and movies. Great job, i tried using one of those calibration blu rays and it's too complicated!

You're welcome and I hope others will jump on the band wagon to make this a useful thread.

I will repost confirmed usable calibration settings by anyone back in post #1 (with credit to the source) so people don't have to look all over the place for them. In other cases I may just post a link, like I have done with CNet settings, especially if you like to watch your TV in a darkened environment.

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post #15 of 632 Old 12-27-2009, 01:39 PM
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I've pretty much figured out all of my settings for my 46", but I'm still unsure about the AMP 240hz feature with anti-judder and blur reduction.


Source is a Time Warner STB with 1080i HD channels. Firmware is 1008.

I want to utilize the AMP without having to deal with the "soap opera" look. My first try I had AMP on custom, with the anti-judder to 0 and blur reduction to 0. I was watching "Michael Clayton" and noticed Clooney's face was hard to pick up while he was walking, almost like there were too many frame changes. Is this something that the blur reduction would fix? I'm trying to steer clear from the anti-judder, because I know that's what produces the soap opera effect.


At the moment, AMP is off. Picture looks fine most of the time, but seems a shame to waste the feature just because I don't quite understand it. Then again, I imagine the only real benefit is noticeable during live action content (sports being the obvious example).
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post #16 of 632 Old 12-27-2009, 05:33 PM
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Just got my 8500 yesterday and have used some of the settings from this forum. Picture is stunning. Some questions to other owners:

- My prior TV (a Sharp Aquos) would automatically change settings depending on the source. Some channels like ESPN and ABC broadcast in 720p and the TV would change to reflect that. Can the 8500 be set to change to native? I believe everything that it receives is displayed in 1080i.

- I purchased a calibration from Best Buy and they recommended approximately 100 hours of use before doing this. Is there value in getting this done vs. the settings I have learned from this forum?

Thanks,
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Paul---I'm not sure who your provider is, but with Time Warner's STB you can choose a pass-through, fixed resolution or native to the channel (720p, 1080i, etc). Check out the settings on your cable/satellite box.
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post #18 of 632 Old 12-28-2009, 08:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi Paul,

* The 8500 will set the resolution according to the device that outputs it. If your device allows "native" and will adjust output accordingly, then your 8500 will do so as well.

* The 100 hour burn in is, from memory, a standard that was established in the calibration industry to accommodate settlement for CRT and plasmas primarily that tend to have noticeable differences from 0-100 hours. Although less applicable to LED/LCDs it is still a good idea to follow if you are going to pay or ask someone else to do the professional calibration unless you can get free calibration anytime you want...


Quote:
Originally Posted by PMA View Post

Just got my 8500 yesterday and have used some of the settings from this forum. Picture is stunning. Some questions to other owners:

- My prior TV (a Sharp Aquos) would automatically change settings depending on the source. Some channels like ESPN and ABC broadcast in 720p and the TV would change to reflect that. Can the 8500 be set to change to native? I believe everything that it receives is displayed in 1080i.

- I purchased a calibration from Best Buy and they recommended approximately 100 hours of use before doing this. Is there value in getting this done vs. the settings I have learned from this forum?

Thanks,
Paul


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post #19 of 632 Old 12-28-2009, 08:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Oland,

Try to use either AMP-Clear or AMP-Custom and set the Judder to 2 and see if that bothers you. Give it at least a week's worth of viewing. At Judder 2 I am not bothered by the effect and am still benefitting from the apparant motion resolution improvement.



Quote:
Originally Posted by oland View Post

I've pretty much figured out all of my settings for my 46", but I'm still unsure about the AMP 240hz feature with anti-judder and blur reduction.


Source is a Time Warner STB with 1080i HD channels. Firmware is 1008.

I want to utilize the AMP without having to deal with the "soap opera" look. My first try I had AMP on custom, with the anti-judder to 0 and blur reduction to 0. I was watching "Michael Clayton" and noticed Clooney's face was hard to pick up while he was walking, almost like there were too many frame changes. Is this something that the blur reduction would fix? I'm trying to steer clear from the anti-judder, because I know that's what produces the soap opera effect.


At the moment, AMP is off. Picture looks fine most of the time, but seems a shame to waste the feature just because I don't quite understand it. Then again, I imagine the only real benefit is noticeable during live action content (sports being the obvious example).


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Last night I had some time to play with the Sencore on the 8500 and decided to give CNet setting a try. Before I did this I was able to reaffirm that the original settings I had established was still within the 6500K tolerance, and it was within +/- 3%, in case some of you are wondering. By now I have already put in at least 100 hours of viewing on this unit.

Then I reset all settings and tried the CNet (this is the first time I tried their settings).

Immediately I noticed that there was a big difference in brightness drop. It seems that the dark got darker. A quick comparison tells me that BACKLIGHT, HDMI-NORMAL, and GAMMA -1 has to do with it but I was curious as to how different the color accuracy was, so I measured it with the Sencore and at IRE-30 the RED was reading 7%. At IRE-80 the RED was at 9%. Other numbers were within the 5% range.

I decided to retune the color settings using the Sencore and after some fine tuning was able to bring the color accuracy within range. The recalibrated CNet settings are posted in the first post under my initial calibration for ease of reference.

Right now I am still using the re-calibrated CNet settings but personally I do not think I will stay in this for long. I noticed that CNet stated their HDMI option was greyed out but ours was not, perhaps due to a firmware difference. Also noted was that they tested using the 46" set, so we know that it is a different batch.

Anyone curious to try it let us know what you think.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by oland View Post

Paul---I'm not sure who your provider is, but with Time Warner's STB you can choose a pass-through, fixed resolution or native to the channel (720p, 1080i, etc). Check out the settings on your cable/satellite box.

I have DirecTV and have the set top box set to native output, however, the Samsung still shows 1080 @ 60Hz even when I change to a channel like ESPN that is in 720p.

I see nothing in the TV menu that allows the TV to change according to the input it receives like my Sharp would do. Not really an issue but I would have thought a TV like this would allow this.

Cheers,
Paul
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Yahoo---I'm curious about your settings for Digital NR and Film Mode.


I believe I have DNR on medium and Film Mode on "Auto2," I'm pretty sure these were the settings out of the box. Auto1 says it relates to video while Auto2 is for text on the screen or something.
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post #23 of 632 Old 12-29-2009, 07:48 AM - Thread Starter
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I don't use either DNR or FILM MODE unless I have a non-digital source. For my calibrations in MOVIE MODE, all settings are defaulted first in WARM2 and DNR is OFF normally in WARM2, and FILM MODE is disabled (unaccessible).

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Does anybody have any advice for proper settings for connecting a PC to this TV? I have my Mac Pro connected to it via DVI->HDMI cable connected to HDMI 1. After setting the sharpness to 0 am able to get sharp images and amazing color, but text (especially colored text) seems off. It comes across as blurry and the color of the text doesn't appear to be correct.

I just stumbled across something called "PC-mode" that activated itself after labeling the HDMI 1 input as "DVI-PC". This corrected the problem with the blurry colored text, but made the entire picture appear washed out with very dull colors. With PC-Mode enabled the color control is grayed out so I can't adjust anything other than the white balance.

After trying both settings I decided to disable PC mode and go back to normal mode so that I can get the amazing colors back, even though colored text is still blurry.

Has anyone tried connecting this set to their computer yet? What settings work for you?
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post #25 of 632 Old 12-29-2009, 10:49 AM - Thread Starter
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I have connected it using RGB port and the picture looked fine. However I was not using it to display art/pictures/videos it was just some windows application and they did not seem off base on color and therefore no calibration was done on it.

You might want to try that just for comparison purposes if possible.

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I haven't had much luck trying other people's settings. Yahoo, your settings look strange on my 8500. That green gain of zero seems way off.

I've tried tuning my set with Color HCFR and an Eye One Display 2 just using the user menu and I can get gray scale OK but the gamma is way off, although I haven't tried to extremely low contrast as it's not practical.

After a lot of fiddling, I was not happy with the result, so I set the white balance and color space back to default and just tweaked brightness, contrast and decided to be happy with that for now.

On a related note, I'm puzzled by the access to HDMI black and film mode settings. They are greyed out currently but I remember them being available before. I can't recall if it might have been just with my Blu-Ray, but I think it was my cable box as well. No longer. Can't figure out why.
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I will bold face the legends in post #1 so it is easier to identify.

WRG is not GREEN GAIN, it stands for White-Balance-Red-Gain, and that is the only setting that was zero in the white balance area.

You may want to retry it. Basically I listed all the settings in the order they appear, when possible/sensible. So if you are trying my original cailbration, think of it as:

25
25
24
0
25
22

as they appear on your white balance screen.

FILM MODE is greyed out in modes that cannot benefit from them such as VIDEO, COMPONENT INTERLACED, according to the manual.

HDMI is greyed out if your output device is not capable of supporting multi-modes, like most DVD players, in which case HDMI-LOW is the normal. Many media players allow you to customize HDMI output from RGB FULL/LIMITED and you would then make sure the 8500 is set to match. If it is RGB FULL (0-255) then HDMI should be NORMAL, otherwise HDMI should be LOW.

Make sure you are in the MOVIE mode first before making any changes.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yahoo View Post

I will bold face the legends in post #1 so it is easier to identify.

WRG is not GREEN GAIN, it stands for White-Balance-Red-Gain, and that is the only setting that was zero in the white balance area.

You may want to retry it. Basically I listed all the settings in the order they appear, when possible/sensible. So if you are trying my original cailbration, think of it as:

25
25
24
0
25
22

as they appear on your white balance screen.

HDMI and FILM Settings are greyed out in modes that cannot benefit from them, at least that was how Samsung intended, but there had been cases where there were bugs that prevented access to them (or that it was unclear how the logic works) even in my first-generation 81F.

Make sure you are in the MOVIE mode first before making any changes.

Actually I did set them according to your abbreviations. I just misread it last night when I was putting together my reply. I remembered that you had one of the white balance settings at zero and that didn't work for me. WRG=0 is White balance RED Gain = 0. Got it. When I went to adjust my white balance with my Eye One, it ended up close to 50, not zero.
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What cable do I need to connect my PC to the TV because dvi to dvi need not fit in TV
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post #30 of 632 Old 12-30-2009, 05:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi Bill,

Try the enhanced CNet settings in POST #1 when you have the chance and see if that works better with your set.


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Actually I did set them according to your abbreviations. I just misread it last night when I was putting together my reply. I remembered that you had one of the white balance settings at zero and that didn't work for me. WRG=0 is White balance RED Gain = 0. Got it. When I went to adjust my white balance with my Eye One, it ended up close to 50, not zero.


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