Official LG "XXLH90" 240hz LED User Setting/Calibration Forum - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 1715 Old 01-29-2010, 10:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Finally, a thread to talk about user settings and and calibration seeting for your LG "XXLH90" 240hz LED
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post #2 of 1715 Old 01-29-2010, 11:17 AM
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Local dimming on AND a calibration menu panel showing at the bottom of the screen causes erroneous calibration readings. For example, if local dimming is on and I'm displaying the 70% gray field I get different Y value depending on if a calibration menu panel (e.g., the panel to adjust red at 70%) is showing or not. If local dimming is off then the Y value is the same regardless if there is a calibration menu panel.

I figured this out when adjusting the grayscale. I too thought local dimming should be on because that's the way I would be watching the TV. The sensor is in the center of the grayscale field and, therefore should not be effected by local dimming phenomena at the edge of the field. The center, where the sensor is, should be free of local dimming effects. After carefully and laboriously adjusting each IRE point for both balance and gamma I would then measure the grayscale from 10 to 100 IRE. I'd find that each point was less than the luminance that I had set in the calibration run. This was because local dimming was on during the calibration phase and off during the measurement phase. Turning off local dimming produced consistent readings between the calibration and measurement phases.

The equipment: LG 47LH90, Harmon Kardon 254 AVR, Panasonic BMP-DP60 BluRay disc player

The calibration setup: Software - ColorHFCR; Sensor - EyeOne Display 2; Calibration Disc - AVS HD 709 PATCHED
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post #3 of 1715 Old 01-29-2010, 03:02 PM
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Guess I'll repost my Black Crush question here then...

Black Crush Issue:
I'm watching the Harry Potter series on Blu-Ray using my PS3 and despite calibrating using the AVS709HD disc so that I can see the differences in the darkest bars around #17 I still get what looks to me like black crush. In very dark scenes (which dominates these movies) backgrounds and actors clothes become pitch black with no details, yet I can see the difference between the movie itself and the black bars due to the aspect ratio. Is this just the source? Is the movie just "over dark" for dramatic effect? Or is this something with my settings?

Also along these lines what scenes in which movies do you recommend for checking the results of your calibrations. Having all your numbers dialed in is great but at some point you have to step back and SEE how things look with actual material and not just test patterns.

My equipment list is here. Playstation Network ID = jmii ...that's JM roman numeral 2
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post #4 of 1715 Old 01-29-2010, 04:15 PM
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A few links to some of my posts:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...&postcount=286
Lokk at the attachments to see how the LH90 fares

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=2944
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=2364
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=1987

These are old, current Cal settings are different.

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post #5 of 1715 Old 01-29-2010, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMII View Post

Guess I'll repost my Black Crush question here then...

Black Crush Issue: (etc)


I'm sure it's not the movie. I have the same issue with my 47LH90 I bought in November, delivered Dec 10th. I haven't had extensive experience with HDTVs, but this is the first set that I've been pulling my hair out, trying to get the image the way I want. Low level contrast with everything dynamic turned off is really being a pain to bring out. Some colors are slightly off too. This is the first HDTV that has required ISF calibration. I have little doubt that after calibration, it will look stellar, but LG really needs to include this in the asking price if it's necessary to get a proper image.
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post #6 of 1715 Old 01-29-2010, 06:57 PM
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I don't suppose there is an easy way for a moderator to copy or move all the posts from the other thread to this one...

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post #7 of 1715 Old 01-30-2010, 04:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p5browne View Post

Tried someone else's settings and can't see why they find they're so great? Like me, you can't figure out why the settings keep changing so drastically? Then try this on for size! Different values in Expert 1 and 2 conflict with each other! That's right; you heard it here! As an experiment for all those calibrators at heart - put the exact same values for everything in BOTH Expert 1 and 2. After each calibration, complete or not - move the values from what ever Expert Mode you're in to the other. Since starting this method, the values migrate far less from the last calibrating session. I have not completed my current session as of yet, but CMS values are all at Zero (Still no time to get to this), Energy Saving is now Off, the Dynamic Contrast is now Off as well, and White Balance is back to Warm. (White Balance is usually personal preference but you can't calibrate with it on Cool, only Warm!) See if this doesn't stabilize your settings. Just my 2 cents for now - just waiting for the TV to warm up and back to checking my theory out more.

Calibrating settings: 55LH90 - November Build
Energy Saving: Off Back Light: 69 Contrast: 84 Brightness: 58
H Sharpness: 50 V Sharpness: 53 Colour: 47 Tint: 0
Dynamic Contrast: Off Noise Reduction: Off Gamma: Low
Black Level: Low Real Cinema: Off True Motion: Off
Colour Standard: HD Colour Gamut: Wide Edge Enhance: High
White Balance: Warm 10 Point IRE Luminance: 100

100 IRE: 19 44 -3 90 IRE: 29 48 -15
80 IRE: 31 38 -16 70 IRE: 21 20 -26
60 IRE: 12 12 -24 50 IRE: 2 1 -29
40 IRE: -5 -9 -30 30 IRE: -15 -17 -32
20 IRE: -15 -15 -26 10 IRE: -9 -10 -15

CMS: All Zeros

Please insert the following settings in BOTH Expert 1 and Expert 2
My PQ by having Expert 1 and 2 cloned is not bad with these settings!
If you change ANYTHING in either of the Expert Modes, it affects the PQ in the other!
Try and see if the above Theory doesn't work for you.
If you try any other settings you find, make sure to duplicate in BOTH Expert Modes.

Let values settle in for a half to full hour to get the final viewing results

Installed these settings in the July build in Expert 1 and 2 - the November build seems to be a tad better.
Will see if it passes the Wife Test tonight!?
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post #8 of 1715 Old 01-30-2010, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p5browne View Post

Calibrating settings: 55LH90 - November Build
Energy Saving: Off Back Light: 69 Brightness: 58
H Sharpness: 50 V Sharpness: 53 Colour: 47 Tint: 0
Dynamic Contrast: Off Noise Reduction: Off Gamma: Low
Black Level: Low Real Cinema: Off True Motion: Off
Colour Standard: HD Colour Gamut: Wide Edge Enhance: High
White Balance: Warm 10 Point IRE

100 IRE: 19 44 -3 90 IRE: 29 48 -15
80 IRE: 31 38 -16 70 IRE: 21 20 -26
60 IRE: 12 12 -24 50 IRE: 2 1 -29
40 IRE: -5 -9 -30 30 IRE: -15 -17 -32
20 IRE: -15 -15 -26 10 IRE: -9 -10 -15

CMS: All Zeros

Please insert the following settings in BOTH Expert 1 and Expert 2
My PQ by having Expert 1 and 2 cloned is excellent with these settings!
If you change ANYTHING in either of the Expert Modes, it affects the PQ in the other!
Try and see if the above Theory doesn't work for you.
If you try any other settings you find, make sure to duplicate in BOTH Expert Modes.

Let values settle in for a half to full hour to get the final viewing results

Installed these settings in the July build in Expert 1 and 2 - the November build seems to be a tad better.
Will see if it passes the Wife Test tonight!?

I tried the settings on my August build and for SD/HD cable they seem a bit off. I will try it again using a Blu ray source because your settings in the past have worked well for that but not for my cable source.
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post #9 of 1715 Old 01-30-2010, 04:03 PM
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Did you make sure Expert 1 and 2 settings are mirror perfect?
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post #10 of 1715 Old 01-30-2010, 05:16 PM
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Is there a certain amount of hours a guy should wait before playing to much with the settings? If so , is there a way to see how many hours are on the TV? December build firmware 3.17 I think.

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post #11 of 1715 Old 01-30-2010, 06:16 PM
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I used to wait a half hour before calibrating but after my test that found the original results from the night before, weren't reached until 7.5 hours after initial warm up, I now wait 3 to 4 hours before starting. By the time you get down to the final run, you're up into the 7 to 8 hour range. Remember, mirror your settings into the opposite Expert Mode then what you were calibrating in. If you were meaning weeks - I would give it 3 to 4 weeks for the TV to settle into it's initial breakin period.
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post #12 of 1715 Old 01-30-2010, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick_WI View Post

I tried the settings on my August build and for SD/HD cable they seem a bit off. I will try it again using a Blu ray source because your settings in the past have worked well for that but not for my cable source.

Tainted the dang calibration! Forgot to Zero the IREs in both the Expert 1 and 2 modes before starting. Starting over. (The current settings are still pretty good, especially the 3D look it gives to the PQ) Expect the settings to change once again - gosh always different!
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post #13 of 1715 Old 01-30-2010, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p5browne View Post

Tainted the dang calibration! Forgot to Zero the IREs in both the Expert 1 and 2 modes before starting. Starting over. (The current settings are still pretty good, especially the 3D look it gives to the PQ) Expect the settings to change once again - gosh always different!

This TV is perfect for those of us that love to play with these settings! I can't imagine having a TV with a more basic set of adjustments!

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post #14 of 1715 Old 01-30-2010, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p5browne View Post

Tainted the dang calibration! Forgot to Zero the IREs in both the Expert 1 and 2 modes before starting. Starting over. (The current settings are still pretty good, especially the 3D look it gives to the PQ) Expect the settings to change once again - gosh always different!

When you get this you are done
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...3&d=1264780441

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attac...8&d=1264783447

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post #15 of 1715 Old 01-31-2010, 10:53 AM
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What happened to your Gamma equalling 2.22? Your RGB line looks like it requires a covering, like my D65 painted box, to keep out extraneous light when doing the calibration. Flatlining just the Green last night with my new Zero first and Mirror the results in both Expert Modes, delivered a Yellow tingeless picture and I couldn't believe the PQ despite Red and Blue not even being touched! (Try JUST flatlining the Green after Zeroing Expert 1 and 2, CMS and IREs, and transferring the results to the other Expert Mode: when finished check your PQ) Results with this new mirroring method produced more stable settings, but, I'm going to check where the Green flatlining goes over the next several nights, after several hours of warm up, to see if the settings, more or less, stay the same. Rechecking the results over several hours last night, found the middle IRE's changing, but not to a great degree. The 80 to 100IRE's were finicky but retained their settings despite the oscillationing effects. 10IRE was actually the most stable. Will post the Green settings after several nights of monitoring. (They're definitely not the same as my settings above!)
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post #16 of 1715 Old 01-31-2010, 11:38 AM
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My general strategy is to calibrate the grayscale followed by adjusting the CMS settings. I tried following the advice that I had seen to adjust the Color (saturation) and Tint (hue) settings. The Patched calibration disk presents the primary and secondary colors at 100% saturation and 75% luminance. I would then adjust each color's Color and Tint setting so that the reading would come the closest to the required xyY for 100% saturation nad 75% luminance. I must say that for some colors it was like trying move a battleship with a row boat. I.E. big adjustments would result in very small changes that were sometimes orthogonal to the direction that I wanted to go. This methodology resulted in flesh tones that were sometimes pinkish or orangeish. I believe the explanation can be found in the saturation shifts. ColorHFCR provides for measuring xyY at 0%, 25%, 50%, 75%, and 100% saturation for each primary and secondary color. The AVS HD 709 PATCHED calibration disc is required to produce the images at these saturations. ColorHFCR then provides a Saturation-Shifts graph which showed that the saturation shifts and color error would be minimal at 0% and 100%, but pronounced at 25%, 50%, and particularly 75%. I don't know what, if any, provisions for measuring saturations are found in the other software packages.

The method I use now is to adjust CMS settings based on the saturation shifts graph. E.g., if the red saturation shift line is mostly above 0% the Red Color is adjusted downwards. Usually I adjust the Color setting 5 points at a time and then do a saturation measurement of just that color. This is slower than adjusting while observing a continuous readout of the measurement but it's not too bad. In a like manner, I'd like to adjust Tint by getting the color error line (in the bottom half of the Saturation - Shifts graph) closer to 0. However, there seems to be a problem with ColorHFCR in that the color error line exaggerates the error at 100%. For the 100% saturation value I use the value found in the 100% column on the saturation scale found on the Measures tab.

Using the saturation measures is still a work in progress, but this method has resulted in a picture that I was unable to achieve otherwise. Has anybody else tried the saturation measures?

The first 3 attachments are screen captures from ColorHFCR. The 4th is a zip file containing the .chc produced by ColorHFCR.
LL
LL
LL

 

Color26.zip 4.359375k . file
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post #17 of 1715 Old 01-31-2010, 05:28 PM
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Flatlined only the Green leaving the CMS and 10 to 100IRE Reds and Blues at Zero, and, for some reason or other I'm getting a great picture!
Nov Build:
Settings: 100IRE: 27 90IRE: 29 80IRE: 17 70IRE: 8 60IRE: 0 50IRE: -9 40IRE: -15 30IRE: -20 20IRE: -22 10IRE: -14

For those who like to experiment, could you try this as well and let me know your results.
These were installed on both Expert modes using my above settings for all the other settings. Currently watching old Gilligan's Island DVDs and they've just came alive with only flatlining the Green. Watched BBC Blu-Ray - Excellent!

Wife went to bed early - did the Zeroing of the CMS and IREs in Expert 1 and 2 - calibrated Expert 1 Green Flatline; applied to Expert 2
Took 20 minutes total - same results - leaving the Red or Blues in the IREs at Zeros - great picture!
July Build:
Settings: 100IRE: 6 90IRE: 29 80IRE: 26 70IRE: 21 60IRE: 14 50IRE: 5 40IRE: -1 30IRE: -11 20IRE: -17 10IRE: -14

So for a quick fix to get a great picture, Zero the CMS and 10 to 100IREs in Expert 1 and 2, calibrate Green flatline on Expert1, transfer to Expert2. Just my 2 cents worth as usual.

WARNING: Any and all calibrations will affect all the other Modes, either Positively or Negatively! Conversely, when calibrating, all the other Modes will affect your calibrations. (Dang, then that means I have to reset all the Modes, where possible, to my calibration settings before starting to cut down on further interference!)

ALL the Modes are Interdependent rather than Independent. What affects one, affects them all!
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post #18 of 1715 Old 01-31-2010, 07:31 PM
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My main intent here is to show that the RGB tracking dE can be brought to < 1 and the CMS adjustments, even with a 2D CMS, are usefull to get the primaries and secondaries near perfect.

Cannot find the Gamma chart

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post #19 of 1715 Old 01-31-2010, 08:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p5browne View Post

Flatlined only the Green leaving the CMS and 10 to 100IRE Reds and Blues at Zero, and, for some reason or other I'm getting a great picture!
Nov Build:
Settings: 100IRE: 27 90IRE: 29 80IRE: 17 70IRE: 8 60IRE: 0 50IRE: -9 40IRE: -15 30IRE: -20 20IRE: -22 10IRE: -14

For those who like to experiment, could you try this as well and let me know your results.
These were installed on both Expert modes using my above settings for all the other settings. Currently watching old Gilligan's Island DVDs and they've just came alive with only flatlining the Green. Watched BBC Blu-Ray - Excellent!

Wife went to bed early - did the Zeroing of the CMS and IREs in Expert 1 and 2 - calibrated Expert 1 Green Flatline; applied to Expert 2
Took 20 minutes total - same results - leaving the Red or Blues in the IREs at Zeros - great picture!
July Build:
Settings: 100IRE: 6 90IRE: 29 80IRE: 26 70IRE: 21 60IRE: 14 50IRE: 5 40IRE: -1 30IRE: -11 20IRE: -17 10IRE: -14

So for a quick fix to get a great picture, Zero the CMS and 10 to 100IREs in Expert 1 and 2, calibrate Green flatline on Expert1, transfer to Expert2. Just my 2 cents worth as usual.

I have plugged these in and will let you know how they work. So far they look better than the last set of numbers. The last set seemed to do something with the reds, browns, and oranges with the pictrure.

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post #20 of 1715 Old 01-31-2010, 08:58 PM
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Funny how after Flatlining the Green - Flatlining the Reds and Blues seems to get us into trouble! Can't believe the picture quality with Flatlining only the Green, Zeroing the CMS and Reds and Blues plus mirroring the Expert1 and 2.
Going to enjoy this scenario for awhile to something bugs me, then I may try to complete the rest. So for those who like a quick fix - enjoy!
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post #21 of 1715 Old 02-01-2010, 04:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catmother View Post

My main intent here is to show that the RGB tracking dE can be brought to < 1 and the CMS adjustments, even with a 2D CMS, are usefull to get the primaries and secondaries near perfect.

Cannot find the Gamma chart

When you did your Grayscale the Y component should come as close to 2.22 as possible. Then you'll see that RGB line being ruler straight. Grayscaling this set is like arm wrestling - either of you could win. Did you try the mirroring effect yet? It helps alot to keep your other Expert mode at the same level you're at in the Expert mode being calibrated - less conflict and tends to reinforce what you're doing where you are. When I finish each sweep from 100 to 10IRE, I then transfer the results to the other Expert Mode before starting my next fine tuning sweeps. Haven't gotten to the CMS mode yet, still trying to get the Ultimate Grayscale without the constant changing of values! Appears the mirroring effect may help. Don't know yet since my last calibration settings got tainted when I forgot to Zero the opposing Expert Mode.
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post #22 of 1715 Old 02-01-2010, 06:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p5browne View Post
When you did your Grayscale the Y component should come as close to 2.22 as possible. Then you'll see that RGB line being ruler straight. Grayscaling this set is like arm wrestling - either of you could win. Did you try the mirroring effect yet? It helps alot to keep your other Expert mode at the same level you're at in the Expert mode being calibrated - less conflict and tends to reinforce what you're doing where you are. When I finish each sweep from 100 to 10IRE, I then transfer the results to the other Expert Mode before starting my next fine tuning sweeps. Haven't gotten to the CMS mode yet, still trying to get the Ultimate Grayscale without the constant changing of values! Appears the mirroring effect may help. Don't know yet since my last calibration settings got tainted when I forgot to Zero the opposing Expert Mode.
Maybe your TV has a problem that mine doesn't. Once I figured it out, grayscaling is straightforward, if not somewhat time consuming. I haven't touched the settings in Expert 2 since I've been using Expert 1 to calibrate the set. The general strategy is
1 - Balance the primaries at each IRE starting at 10 IRE. You should get within 1-2%.
2 - Use the luminance at 100IRE to compute the luminances at 10 IRE through 90IRE. I have a spreadsheet to do this. See the attached. Plug the 100IRE luminance into the L4 cell.
3 - For each IRE 10 through 100 adjust the primaries so that they are balanced AND produce the correct luminance. This can be tricky. Green has the most effect on the luminance (maybe this is related to the green flatling you're talking about) and I usually try to get it close to 100% first. You may have to compromise with settings. I usually can get the colors within 1-2% and the luminance with .5%. This step should be done for each IRE separately. It doesn't much matter which order you do the IREs. Sometimes, I'll only do the 2 or 3 that need the most attention.
4. Measure the grayscale balance and gamma. If you're satisfied then go to CMS adjustments. If not, go to step 2.

Local Dimming is OFF.

 

Gamma.zip 7.33984375k . file
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post #23 of 1715 Old 02-01-2010, 07:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by p5browne View Post

Flatlined only the Green leaving the CMS and 10 to 100IRE Reds and Blues at Zero, and, for some reason or other I'm getting a great picture!
Nov Build:
Settings: 100IRE: 27 90IRE: 29 80IRE: 17 70IRE: 8 60IRE: 0 50IRE: -9 40IRE: -15 30IRE: -20 20IRE: -22 10IRE: -14

For those who like to experiment, could you try this as well and let me know your results.
These were installed on both Expert modes using my above settings for all the other settings. Currently watching old Gilligan's Island DVDs and they've just came alive with only flatlining the Green. Watched BBC Blu-Ray - Excellent!

Wife went to bed early - did the Zeroing of the CMS and IREs in Expert 1 and 2 - calibrated Expert 1 Green Flatline; applied to Expert 2
Took 20 minutes total - same results - leaving the Red or Blues in the IREs at Zeros - great picture!
July Build:
Settings: 100IRE: 6 90IRE: 29 80IRE: 26 70IRE: 21 60IRE: 14 50IRE: 5 40IRE: -1 30IRE: -11 20IRE: -17 10IRE: -14

So for a quick fix to get a great picture, Zero the CMS and 10 to 100IREs in Expert 1 and 2, calibrate Green flatline on Expert1, transfer to Expert2. Just my 2 cents worth as usual.

WARNING: Any and all calibrations will affect all the other Modes, either Positively or Negatively! Conversely, when calibrating, all the other Modes will affect your calibrations. (Dang, then that means I have to reset all the Modes, where possible, to my calibration settings before starting to cut down on further interference!)

ALL the Modes are Interdependent rather than Independent. What affects one, affects them all!

So I was all set to give you feedback, and I noticed that you added settings for the July build. I went to change the settings, and I realized I had accidentally put some of these settings in Red instead of Green! I will have to watch some more and let you know!

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post #24 of 1715 Old 02-01-2010, 08:09 AM
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[quote=p5browne;18045192]When you did your Grayscale the Y component should come as close to 2.22 as possible. Then you'll see that RGB line being ruler straight. Grayscaling this set is like arm wrestling - either of you could win. /quote]

A 2.2 gamma is not written in stone. As Tom Huffman and others have pointed out users may prefer a lower 2.0 or 2.1 gamma for daytime bright room viewing and a higher 2.3 2.35 gamma for night dark room viewing. For this reason I am not as concerned about gamma as getting the grayscale and CIE correct.

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Did you try the mirroring effect yet?

Yes, somewhat. After calibrating Expert2, the settings were copied to Expert1. Switching back and forth they look exactly the same while viewing images recorded on the TivoHD from Torrey Pines US Open.

The next test will be to measure the grayscale on expert2, do a picture reset on Expert1 and then measure grayscale again on Expert2 to see if and to what extent resetting Expert1 affects Expert2.

I am also contemplating posting some photos of the Golf tournament, but need to verify the camera first . The Panasonic Lumix TZ5 is a 10 MP camera with a 10x zoom ,optical image stabilization, a Leica lens and can shoot in 16x9 mode duplicating the TV AR. But users should realize that computer monitors are generally not calibrated. For that reason the photo jpgs's should be copied to a USB flash drive and viewed directly on the LG TV.
After making some tests that way and verifying that the photo images duplicate the Tivo recording images, I can post some photos.

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post #25 of 1715 Old 02-01-2010, 03:09 PM
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Picture menu:
Aspect ratio: Just Size
Energy Saving: Off
Picture Mode: Expert 2
Backlight: 44
Contrast: 90
Brightness: 54
H Sharpness: 50
V Sharpness: 50
Color: 50
Tint: 0

--Expert control menu
Dynamic contrast: Off
Noise reduction: Off
Gamma: Low
Black level: Low
Real Cinema: On
TruMotion 240Hz: Off
Color Standard: HD [grayed out]
Color Gamut: Standard
Edge Enhancer: Off
xvYCC: Auto [grayed out]
OPC: Off
Expert Pattern: Off [grayed out]
Color Filter: Off

White balance: Warm
Method: 10 point IRE
Pattern: Outer
IRE: [see below]
Luminance: 137

-- 10 point IRE calibration
IRE: [Red, Green, Blue results, respectively, for each IRE point]
100 [13, -1, -50]
90 [16, -2, -46]
80 [18, -10, -45]
70 [15, -9, -39]
60 [8, -13, -35]
50 [6, -15, -33]
40 [-5, -22, -35]
30 [1, -16, -25]
20 [-10, -20, -24]
10 [-5, -10, -14]

Color management system
Red color: 0
Red tint: 0
Green color: 0
Green tint: -1
Blue color: 0
Blue tint: 0
Yellow color: 0
Yellow tint: -1
Cyan color: 0
Cyan tint: 0
Magenta color: 0
Magenta tint: -1

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post #26 of 1715 Old 02-01-2010, 03:14 PM
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- Picture Mode: Expert1/2 (Utilizing PS3)
o Backlight: 73
o Contrast: 85
o Brightness: 48-58 (depending on source)
o H Sharpness: 53
o V Sharpness: 70
o Color: 66
o Tint: R2
o Expert Control
 Dynamic Contrast: Off (Low for some sources - mainly toons/anime & games)
 Noise Reduction: Low
 Gamma: Medium (Varies for a number of sources, commonly to Low - problem
pertaining to the content itself)
 Black Level: Low
 Real Cinema: On
 TruMotion 240Hz: Off (FOR SURE! -only good for games like Guitar Hero)
 Color Gamut: Wide
 Edge Enhancer: High
 White Balance: Cool
 Method: 2 Points
 Pattern: Outer
 Red Contrast: 21
 Green Contrast: 10
 Blue Contrast: 24
 Red Brightness: 3
 Green Brightness: 14
 Blue Brightness: 6
 Color Management System
 Red Color: -5
 Red Tint: 3
 Green Color: -3
 Green Tint: -5
 Blue Color: -7
 Blue Tint: 5
 Yellow Color: 2
 Yellow Tint: 2
 Cyan Color: -4
 Cyan Tint: -4
 Magenta Color: -1
 Magenta Tint: -1

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post #27 of 1715 Old 02-01-2010, 03:24 PM
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http://www.hometheatermag.com/flat-p...tv/index5.html


Picture Settings
Picture Menu
Aspect Ratio Just Scan
Energy Saving Off
Picture Mode Expert1
Backlight 21
Contrast 81
Brightness 57
H Sharpness 50
V Sharpness 50
Color 47
Tint 0
Expert Control
Dynamic Contrast Off
Noise Reduction Off
Gamma 0
Black Level Low
Real Cinema Auto
TruMotion 240Hz High
Color Standard N/A (HDMI)
Color Gamut Standard
Edge Enhancer Off
xvYCC N/A (HDMI)
Expert Pattern N/A (HDMI)
Color Filter Off
White Balance Warm

Method 10 Point IRE
Pattern Outer
100 IRE
Luminance 130
Red 4
Green 0
Blue -35
90 IRE
Red 14
Green 0
Blue -29
80 IRE
Red 16
Green 0
Blue -26
70 IRE
Red 17
Green 0
Blue -26
60 IRE
Red 15
Green 0
Blue -17
50 IRE
Red 16
Green 0
Blue -13
40 IRE
Red 10
Green -2
Blue -13
30 IRE
Red 11
Green 1
Blue -8
20 IRE
Red 11
Green 0
Blue -1
10 IRE
Red 3
Green 0
Blue -4

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post #28 of 1715 Old 02-01-2010, 03:26 PM
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Aspect Ration: Just Scan
Backlight: 100
Contrast: 70
Brightness: 52
H Sharpness: 50
V Sharpness: 50
Color: 50
Tint: 0


Expert Control:
Dynamic Control: Off
Noise Reduction: Off
Gamma: Medium
Black Level: Low
Real Cinema: On
TruMotion 240Hz: Off
Color Gamut: Standard
Edge Enhancer: Off
Color Filter: Off
White Balance: Medium
Method: 10 Point IRE
Pattern: Outer
IRE: 90
Red: 4
Green: -5
Blue: -34
Red Color: 6
Red Tint: 0
Green Color: -1
Green Tint: -8
Blue Color: 9
Blue Tint: 0
Yellow Color: -2
Yellow Tint: 0
Cyan Color: -2
Cyan Tint: 0
Magenta Color: 8
Magenta Tint: -2

100 [1, -10, -42]
90 [4, -5, -34]
80 [8, -6, -25]
70 [10, 4, -17]
60 [12, 2, -16]
50 [14, 4, -8]
40 [9, 2, -11]
30 [12, 4, -1]
20 [8, 4, 0]
10 [10, 3, -9]

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post #29 of 1715 Old 02-01-2010, 03:28 PM
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I appreciate all the work that you guys are doing in playing with the settings and calibration. It had been requested to put all of the settings in one place. Hopefully these settings posts get us started off in the riight direction. Now we will know we can always go back to page 1 to reference these other settings. Were there any I missed?

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post #30 of 1715 Old 02-01-2010, 04:50 PM
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Thanks Nick, that is going to help me alot.

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