Official Samsung LED UNXXC6300, UNXXC6400 & UNXXC6500 Owner's Thread - Page 126 - AVS Forum
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Old 03-31-2011, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by aquaholik View Post

I watched the UN46C6400 one last time last night. I had my kids turn on the TV at 10pm and warmed it up for an hour before I watched a blu ray disc of Life as We Know It. I still can't get over how beautiful the picture is. The 3D like contrast and depth is pretty darn amazing.

For the last month, I have not had the backlight higher than 8. Most of the time, it is Movie mode and backlight level of 6 in a pitch black room. That backlight level of 6 is still plenty bright.

With that level, flashlighting in the lower left corner is negligible. There was hardly any dark scene in the movie so I did not even notice any sign of clouding. At 1 am, I put on Phantom of the Opera. The opening scene with the candle against a dark background. The clouding is there. I can definitely see the pattern but it is pretty faint. And this is after 3 hours of warm up.

I reluctantly packed it up and return it anyway this morning thinking to myself I will probably regret this. It was pretty hassle free but they did a complete check to make sure the serial number matches the receipt.

I upgraded to a UN55D6050. But it wasn't from Costco. It was from Sam's club. I have no faith in the D6050 since I saw some clouding on a D7000 from another thread and that series has micro dimming. The price was $100 cheaper than Costco which is pretty low already with their $200 rebate. The extended warranty wiped out the price advantage but I did get a total of four years instead of the three at Costco with my Amex card.

I didn't want to have to return the TV to Costco again since I already return another UN46C6400 with the C panel about three months ago. That one has really bad clouding where the motherboard sit. I will give a full report tomorrow morning after I test it out tonight. My biggest worry is not the clouding or flashlighting. It is almost expected. I am worry that the picture quality will not be as good as the C6400 series, especially the amazing depth and contrast that I was seeing on the unit that I returned.

I do have a 55C6400 in another room and it is a 9.5 out of 10. I was extremely lucky to get a cloud free C6400 with extremely uniform backlighting and zero bleeding except for some tiny one around the lower left corner.

Oh well, if it doesn't work out, I am going to wait until they get the D7000 or D7100 in and swap it out.

Just curious, for comparison sake, what panel version was your 46C6400 with "amazing depth and contrast" that you returned?
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Old 04-01-2011, 06:56 AM
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Old 04-01-2011, 07:41 AM
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did I miss anything good in the last 10 pages here?
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Old 04-01-2011, 08:43 AM
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did I miss anything good in the last 10 pages here?

No but if you wondering if the D6050 is better than the C6400 then read on.

My anticipation of unboxing and throwing the UN55D6050 on the TV stand/mount was met with horrible disappointment. Yes I did upgrade from a UN46C6400 to a UN55D6050 and sitting at 11ft away, it was a monstrous upgrade. I felt like I was looking at my brother's 65C8000 set. Unfortunately the flashlighting was also monstrous. It was horrible in all corners. Left corner flashlight extend 5 inches toward the middle of the screen and 2-3 inches wide at the end. The right corner flashlight extends a good 7 inches from the right corner and about 3 inches at it's widest point.

I have never seen flashlighting in the upper corners until I got this set. This is the 4th Samsung LEDs and it is absolutely the worst by far. The other three had either no upper corner flashlight or it was so dim that it was negligible.

I immediately went downstair and stood 5 ft away from my UN55C6400. It was an absolute gem. The only hint of flashlighting was maybe a little 1 inch tall dim light from the lower left corner. As I have stated before, that particular set is also cloud free.

I went upstair, went thru the setup menu. Everything went fine, Wifi works, netflix works. I back off the back panel screws and proceed to put on some blue ray disk and proceed to do some fine tuning. I did not do much. It was 10pm in a dark room with no other light. I immediately back off the back light level in "movie" mode to about 8, "standard" and "natural" to about 10. I lower contrast to 85 and brightness to 45. I set the sharpness to about 25, black tone off, dynamic contrast to medium.

While that dim the four corner torch lights, it was easily very visible. There was one or two small round cloudings on the right side but they are only about 1-2 inch in diameter. Whenever I switch inputs, the backlight seems to come on full strength and dim right away when the movie starts. Still it was hard to miss and no way acceptable.

This tells me that Samsung QC never look at their set in a dark room because there is no way in **ll that they could not see that. So much for quality control improvement in the 2011 model.

This panel was a H301 panel. All of the local Costco and Sams club stocks of 46 and 55 inch are H301 panel. The Sam's club I was at had 7 on the rack and I pulled the nicest looking box. I tell you is an absolute crapshoot since there is some positive review of the D6050 in the UNXXD6000 thread.

On a positive note, the built in media player got a little bit of an upgrade. It now plays .m2ts inside the blue ray stream folder. I even heard it strips the HD audio and sends the DTS or AC-3 from the digital out to you receiver. It still only supports .srt subtitle and can't pull subtitle from .vob. You can also time search instead of just scene search. No support of chapter skip in .mkv or .vob or .m2ts.

I would give the edge in picture quality to the 2010 UNXXC6400 but it's probably all in my mind.

I am going to give this thing a week and see if it get any better. If I see more negative review, I will just wait and get the UN55D7000 or 8000 instead.

My advice is that if you got an acceptable C6400 with minimal flashlighting and clouding is to keep it. QC is no better on the 2011 if my set somehow made it thru. Now I wish I had kept my old UN46C6400 and test this UN55D6050 before returning it to Costco.
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Old 04-01-2011, 03:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aquaholik View Post


I went upstair, went thru the setup menu. Everything went fine, Wifi works, netflix works. I back off the back panel screws and proceed to put on some blue ray disk and proceed to do some fine tuning. I did not do much. It was 10pm in a dark room with no other light. I immediately back off the back light level in "movie" mode to about 8, "standard" and "natural" to about 10. I lower contrast to 85 and brightness to 45. I set the sharpness to about 25, black tone off, dynamic contrast to medium.

I would like to say something to everyone regarding sharpness levels. I have mentioned this before, but I think it merits mentioning again. Although this will not help with your flashlighting condition, this will help in other areas. The sharpness control adds artificial edges to objects, which can sometimes help with soft 'standard-definition' signals. But too high a setting will almost always mar the already sharp image from a DVD, Blu-ray or HDTV source. And I can tell you that "25" is absolutely too high! Reduce it to zero (or perhaps as high as 2-3) unless you detect visible softening along the edges of text; if you do, increase it until the edges appear sharp again.
You can do this w/o a calibration disc and get pretty close to spot on. Your eyes will thank you..

Ken

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Old 04-01-2011, 03:13 PM
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Not sure if I'm posting in the correct thread... please correct me if I'm not.

I just purchased a 46D6420 from Best Buy. Initial unit had prominent spotlighting and a huge cloud in the middle. Exchanged for a second unit which was a little better.

One thing that is driving me crazy is that I cannot seem to get NetFlix to work (says I'm not connected to the internet when, indeed, I am and all other apps are working fine). NetFlix support says it's Samsung's fault and Samsung support says it's NetFlix's fault. A Google search seems to reveal that this a known issue, but a hard reset of the TV, router and modem does not fix it. Interestingly, the first unit connected to NetFlix just fine. Anyone experience this? Any solutions?
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Old 04-01-2011, 03:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Not sure if I'm posting in the correct thread... please correct me if I'm not.

I just purchased a 46D6420 from Best Buy. Initial unit had prominent spotlighting and a huge cloud in the middle. Exchanged for a second unit which was a little better.

This would be the wrong thread for your model. There is an entire thread dedicated to your series. Try going to this link:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1321982

Ken

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Old 04-01-2011, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by hearrean View Post

This would be the wrong thread for your model. There is an entire thread dedicated to your series. Try going to this link:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1321982

Ken

Now if somebody could find out if you can turn off the CE Dimming function...it's the one remaining flaw in my 2010 model I'd kill to get rid of.

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Old 04-01-2011, 08:47 PM
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I need to revised my previous response. I am not getting paid by Samsung. I could not believe what I saw tonight after a 24 hour break in. Actually the tv was off all day so it was only broken in last night.

As I said, I loosen the back screws immediately upon seeing the 4 torch light at the corners. It did not help last night but when I came home today and turn it on at 8:30 pm in a darken room, I saw an 80% reduction in flashlighting.

It was as if I am looking at a different tv. There is very faint and minor clouding but the flashlighting is now very dim and more than acceptable. So it just needs to be broken in and I apologize for criticizing it too quickly. This set is now a keeper. In fact, if I set black tone to darkest and dynamic contrast to high, the flashlighting is virtually gone.
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Old 04-02-2011, 03:59 AM
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Originally Posted by aquaholik View Post

I need to revised my previous response. I am not getting paid by Samsung. I could not believe what I saw tonight after a 24 hour break in. Actually the tv was off all day so it was only broken in last night.

As I said, I loosen the back screws immediately upon seeing the 4 torch light at the corners. It did not help last night but when I came home today and turn it on at 8:30 pm in a darken room, I saw an 80% reduction in flashlighting.

It was as if I am looking at a different tv. There is very faint and minor clouding but the flashlighting is now very dim and more than acceptable. So it just needs to be broken in and I apologize for criticizing it too quickly. This set is now a keeper. In fact, if I set black tone to darkest and dynamic contrast to high, the flashlighting is virtually gone.

Ewww. Dynamic contrast. You killed the flashlighting, and any hope of either being able to calibrate the set or get really good PQ out of it.

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Old 04-02-2011, 06:44 AM - Thread Starter
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I definitely agree with "Tia" on the Dynamic Contrast statement.

Ken

The optimist claims the glass is half full; the pessimist claims it is half empty. An engineer observes that the glass is twice as big as it needs to be.

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Old 04-02-2011, 07:20 AM
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I definitely agree with "Tia" on the Dynamic Contrast statement.

Ken

That was a test guys. I've had several of these TVs and I know how unnatural it looks when I max our those two settings. I leave black tone off and dynamic contrast at off or low most of the time. I still like to see the details in the dark scene even if it means my letterbox is not pitch black.
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Old 04-02-2011, 09:46 AM
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How far should I unscrew the back if I wanted to give it a try? I see the flashlighting on the bottom left/right and top left.

Thx
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Old 04-02-2011, 02:23 PM
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How far should I unscrew the back if I wanted to give it a try? I see the flashlighting on the bottom left/right and top left.

Thx
Hi, Phoque2,

A quarter turn only.

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Old 04-02-2011, 02:35 PM
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Hi, Phoque2,

A quarter turn only.

OldAKGuy
Can somebody please provide maybe a picture of which screws to loosen? I constantly see this mentioned but do not want to mess with something I shouldn't.
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Old 04-02-2011, 05:22 PM
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Hi, Phoque2,

A quarter turn only.

OldAKGuy


Thanks. Might give it at try and see what happens.
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Old 04-03-2011, 04:07 PM
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I posted this in the calibration/setting forums also, but the wider spread, the better, right? Search results don't lead me to ANY problem/resolution forum. I don't want to get a new TV at $2,000, but I also don't want to spend $1,800 to fix it either!!

The image on this TV went double!! I have disconnect ALL inputs; reset all of the factory settings; checked, cleaned and secured all wiring connections; replaced the T-CON board and for about 20 seconds after turning the TV on "cold," the image is PERFECT (before T-CON replacement, image was always double), and then gets progressively double. Has anyone seen this? Any solutions?
LL
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Old 04-03-2011, 04:39 PM
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I posted this in the calibration/setting forums also, but the wider spread, the better, right? Search results don't lead me to ANY problem/resolution forum. I don't want to get a new TV at $2,000, but I also don't want to spend $1,800 to fix it either!!

The image on this TV went double!! I have disconnect ALL inputs; reset all of the factory settings; checked, cleaned and secured all wiring connections; replaced the T-CON board and for about 20 seconds after turning the TV on "cold," the image is PERFECT (before T-CON replacement, image was always double), and then gets progressively double. Has anyone seen this? Any solutions?

Hi, RHershner,

All I can say is if you still are under the Samsung warranty make another call to get a service man out.

If you have cable or satellite make a call to the provider to come out and check your receiver, etc.

BTW, what Samsung model is that?

Good luck.

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Old 04-05-2011, 12:29 AM
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I have a UN40C6400 and was wondering what the best way is to clean both the shiny black bezel (without leaving those very light scratches) and the glossy screen. I've read that water is the WORST thing to use (not counting obviously abrasive cleaners like Windex). I have LCD screen cleaner from Office Depot, but that was meant for non-glossy LCD computer monitor screens. I also have a solution for cleaning optical lenses (glasses, not camera lenses) that I got at the optical department at Sam's Club that is supposedly safe for all glass and plastic lenses and coatings. I have the cloth that came with this solution (I guess it's micro-fiber - very soft, almost silky) as well as the cloth that came with a Vizio LCD TV with a non-glossy screen (also micro-fiber, I think, but more like felt than silk). Not only do I not want to damage my screen and bezel, but I'm pretty OCD about even light, micro-scratches, etc., so any advice would be greatly appreciated!
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Old 04-05-2011, 05:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jsulmeyer View Post

I have a UN40C6400 and was wondering what the best way is to clean both the shiny black bezel (without leaving those very light scratches) and the glossy screen. I've read that water is the WORST thing to use (not counting obviously abrasive cleaners like Windex). I have LCD screen cleaner from Office Depot, but that was meant for non-glossy LCD computer monitor screens. I also have a solution for cleaning optical lenses (glasses, not camera lenses) that I got at the optical department at Sam's Club that is supposedly safe for all glass and plastic lenses and coatings. I have the cloth that came with this solution (I guess it's micro-fiber - very soft, almost silky) as well as the cloth that came with a Vizio LCD TV with a non-glossy screen (also micro-fiber, I think, but more like felt than silk). Not only do I not want to damage my screen and bezel, but I'm pretty OCD about even light, micro-scratches, etc., so any advice would be greatly appreciated!

The glossiness of the screen really doesn't enter into the equation here & only part of what you were told is correct. (Regardless of the LCD/LED panel surface, the cleaning care should be the same). Tap water is never a good thing to use, but distilled water (which is free of minerals, etc) is fine. I usually mix about half & half distilled water with Isopropyl alcohol in an atomized spray bottle. Using a micro-fiber cloth, spray the solution onto the cloth first (never onto the panel) and then rub very lightly. Then use the dry side of the cloth to go back over. (Be advised the (2) most important things here is the solution and the micro-fiber cloth. You can also use the type cloth that comes with prescription eyeglasses although those are usually very small & hard to work with. But never use the eye-glass cleaner solution or any other solution claimed to be safe for LCD screen cleaning).
Please keep in mind; do not use a lot of pressure when applying the solution as you can damage the panel itself and it's not necessary anyway. You need to also use this same type cloth for your bezel. Hope this helps.

Ken

The optimist claims the glass is half full; the pessimist claims it is half empty. An engineer observes that the glass is twice as big as it needs to be.

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Old 04-05-2011, 06:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aquaholik View Post

That was a test guys. I've had several of these TVs and I know how unnatural it looks when I max our those two settings. I leave black tone off and dynamic contrast at off or low most of the time. I still like to see the details in the dark scene even if it means my letterbox is not pitch black.

I don't mind not having pitch black letterboxes if it means better overall PQ. If not for the CD Dimming (nobody's answered the question on whether or not the 2011 models allow it to be disabled in any way), I'd be able to use the Black Tone and other controls (except HDMI Black Level) to enhance the darks while leaving brights...well, bright.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RHershner View Post

I posted this in the calibration/setting forums also, but the wider spread, the better, right? Search results don't lead me to ANY problem/resolution forum. I don't want to get a new TV at $2,000, but I also don't want to spend $1,800 to fix it either!!

The image on this TV went double!! I have disconnect ALL inputs; reset all of the factory settings; checked, cleaned and secured all wiring connections; replaced the T-CON board and for about 20 seconds after turning the TV on "cold," the image is PERFECT (before T-CON replacement, image was always double), and then gets progressively double. Has anyone seen this? Any solutions?

If you've had the TCON board replaced already, and you're once again getting "double vision", then I'd suspect you have a bad GPU inside the TV (yes, they use GPUs). I'd say you're in for a full-on PCB replacement at this point. Get'em in there to fix it ASAP.

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Old 04-05-2011, 08:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Squishy Tia View Post

If you've had the TCON board replaced already, and you're once again getting "double vision", then I'd suspect you have a bad GPU inside the TV (yes, they use GPUs). I'd say you're in for a full-on PCB replacement at this point. Get'em in there to fix it ASAP.
His set is a 2009 model & out of warranty. And as I had posted above (but was accidentally deleted), he is posting this in the wrong thread.

Ken

The optimist claims the glass is half full; the pessimist claims it is half empty. An engineer observes that the glass is twice as big as it needs to be.

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Old 04-05-2011, 08:32 AM
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This would be the wrong thread for your model. There is an entire thread dedicated to your series. Try going to this link:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1321982

Ken
Hi Ken, based on this post:

http://mail.avsforum.com/avs-vb/show...4#post20185234

it claims that the 6420 is a Best Buy exclusive version of the 6400 (so they don't have to price match). If that is indeed true, why would the thread for the 6000 be appropriate and not this one? Just want to make sure i'm in the right place, as I brought home the 6420 this weekend (which I am loving).
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Old 04-05-2011, 09:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by randymac88 View Post
Hi Ken, based on this post:

http://mail.avsforum.com/avs-vb/show...4#post20185234

it claims that the 6420 is a Best Buy exclusive version of the 6400 (so they don't have to price match). If that is indeed true, why would the thread for the 6000 be appropriate and not this one? Just want to make sure i'm in the right place, as I brought home the 6420 this weekend (which I am loving).
That's because the link you referenced above goes to (and is about) the "D" series models which are the 2011's. This thread is about the Series 6 2010 "C" models & we do not want to mix these threads together. The 2010's should stay separate from the 2011's. There are major differences between the two (like 3D capable, local dimming, etc) & posts related to the D6420 should be posted in that thread. The "C" series are not 3D compatible.

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Old 04-05-2011, 10:30 AM
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That's because the link you referenced above goes to (and is about) the "D" series models which are the 2011's. This thread is about the Series 6 2010 "C" models & we do not want to mix these threads together. The 2010's should stay separate from the 2011's. There are major differences between the two (like 3D capable, local dimming, etc) & posts related to the D6420 should be posted in that thread. The "C" series are not 3D compatible.

Ken
Ah - got it. Appreciate it.
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Old 04-05-2011, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by hearrean View Post

The glossiness of the screen really doesn't enter into the equation here & only part of what you were told is correct. (Regardless of the LCD/LED panel surface, the cleaning care should be the same). Tap water is never a good thing to use, but distilled water (which is free of minerals, etc) is fine. I usually mix about half & half distilled water with Isopropyl alcohol in an atomized spray bottle. Using a micro-fiber cloth, spray the solution onto the cloth first (never onto the panel) and then rub very lightly. Then use the dry side of the cloth to go back over. (Be advised the (2) most important things here is the solution and the micro-fiber cloth. You can also use the type cloth that comes with prescription eyeglasses although those are usually very small & hard to work with. But never use the eye-glass cleaner solution or any other solution claimed to be safe for LCD screen cleaning).
Please keep in mind; do not use a lot of pressure when applying the solution as you can damage the panel itself and it's not necessary anyway. You need to also use this same type cloth for your bezel. Hope this helps.

Ken

Thanks, Ken. Much appreciated. Just curious, though - can Isopropyl alcohol damage either the screen or the bezel? I had read about that combination and it made me nervous - though no more nervous than using any of the store-bought solutions....

John
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Old 04-05-2011, 12:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsulmeyer View Post

Thanks, Ken. Much appreciated. Just curious, though - can Isopropyl alcohol damage either the screen or the bezel? I had read about that combination and it made me nervous - though no more nervous than using any of the store-bought solutions....

John

I've been using this combo on my LCD/LED screens for quite awhile and have never had a problem. Having said that, you would not want to use a higher concentration than 50% on the alcohol however. If you feel better about it, drop the alcohol down to maybe a 1-4 ratio, but again, I would never recommend something I don't feel safe with.

Ken

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Old 04-05-2011, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by jsulmeyer View Post

I have a UN40C6400 and was wondering what the best way is to clean both the shiny black bezel (without leaving those very light scratches) and the glossy screen. I've read that water is the WORST thing to use (not counting obviously abrasive cleaners like Windex). I have LCD screen cleaner from Office Depot, but that was meant for non-glossy LCD computer monitor screens. I also have a solution for cleaning optical lenses (glasses, not camera lenses) that I got at the optical department at Sam's Club that is supposedly safe for all glass and plastic lenses and coatings. I have the cloth that came with this solution (I guess it's micro-fiber - very soft, almost silky) as well as the cloth that came with a Vizio LCD TV with a non-glossy screen (also micro-fiber, I think, but more like felt than silk). Not only do I not want to damage my screen and bezel, but I'm pretty OCD about even light, micro-scratches, etc., so any advice would be greatly appreciated!


http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

I use this for my TV and it's great.
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Old 04-06-2011, 01:10 PM
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I have had my UN46C6300 for almost 1 year now. I have noticed the flashlighting and clouding from day 1. It never bothered me enough to do anything about it because the picture looks great.

My warranty was almost up so I had a Samsung tech at my house recently and he told me it was normal for this type of TV.

He offered to replace the main board or replace the panel for me if I wanted, but was sure it was normal and I could have the same or worse problem after.

In addition, he said once he breaks the seal on the panel it never seals as good again. In fact, some dust can get into the panel at that point as the set is made in a dust free environment.

Making adjustments to the settings on this TV will have more of a impact than replacing parts in it.

Be warned with some repair centers for Samsung. The tech told me many times they are told to replace parts even if not needed because the repair company gets paid more by Samsung if they do. The tech was honest with me in saying that replacing parts will not solve the flashlighting / clouding and only change it.
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Old 04-07-2011, 07:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by AVTek View Post
I have had my UN46C6300 for almost 1 year now. I have noticed the flashlighting and clouding from day 1. It never bothered me enough to do anything about it because the picture looks great.

My warranty was almost up so I had a Samsung tech at my house recently and he told me it was normal for this type of TV.

He offered to replace the main board or replace the panel for me if I wanted, but was sure it was normal and I could have the same or worse problem after.

In addition, he said once he breaks the seal on the panel it never seals as good again. In fact, some dust can get into the panel at that point as the set is made in a dust free environment.

Making adjustments to the settings on this TV will have more of a impact than replacing parts in it.

Be warned with some repair centers for Samsung. The tech told me many times they are told to replace parts even if not needed because the repair company gets paid more by Samsung if they do. The tech was honest with me in saying that replacing parts will not solve the flashlighting / clouding and only change it.
Only one part of what that Tech told you was true. By replacing the panel, there is no guarantee you will get a panel which is better or worse. However, removing a panel from the chassis (for lack of a better word) does nothing to the integrity of the panel itself; it doesn't break any such seal or anything else of that nature. (The panel itself is sealed, not the panel to the frame. So if he's replacing the actual panel, he's not breaking a seal). If there is back-light bleeding, the problem is in the panel, not where the panel attaches to the chassis.
What you have to decide is just how severe the bleeding/clouding is and does it affect the PQ of the panel. You may see slight flashlighting/clouding/back-light bleeding when the screen is totally black, but do those same issues affect the quality of the image. To your eyes, if it does, then you have every right to get a replacement. Just keep in mind as I said before, there is no guarantee the replacement panel will be better. You didn't mention what version panel you have, but be advised they will be replacing your panel with that same version. So if you're thinking you might get a different version such as a "H", that won't happen.

Edit: BTW, you can help reduce clouding/flashlighting via the user settings. How much it will reduce it is different on each panel.

Ken

The optimist claims the glass is half full; the pessimist claims it is half empty. An engineer observes that the glass is twice as big as it needs to be.

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