Official Sharp Aquos/Quattron LC-XXLE810UN/LC-XXLE820UN Owners Thread - Page 19 - AVS Forum
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post #541 of 2818 Old 05-27-2010, 07:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dumon View Post

I just want to clarify several thing on "flicker" issue people talking about lately.
Originally, there was a major problem with picture jumping/juddering and that was related
to a buggy Film mode (frame interpolation). And this thing seems to be fixed with the recent firmware.
This issue has nothing to do with "flickering" (backlight fluctuation) related to the dynamic contrast feature.



There is also the flickering/black screen that's because of the motion enhancement turned on. (This was still happening as of the last firmware, have not checked with today's firmware)
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post #542 of 2818 Old 05-27-2010, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Howie411 View Post

There is also the flickering/black screen that's because of the motion enhancement turned on. (This was still happening as of the last firmware, have not checked with today's firmware)

It looks like the latest firmware mentions fixes for film mode. So it would make sense to try it out.
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post #543 of 2818 Old 05-27-2010, 10:43 PM
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Good to hear that Sharp is really keeping up with these firmware update fixes! I have had 1 issue with this TV. I have Uverse (motorolla tuner) running HDMI to my Sharp 820. The issue is whenever I turn off my TV the Uverse box blue light starts blinking. I cannot get a picture unlesss I rest the Uverse box. Next time I go to watch TV I have to reset my Uverse box and it will work, but when I turn the TV back off I have the same issue again! This is completely annoying! I did not have this issue with my old television, so I am not sure what the issue is! I guess my next step is to either call Sharp or AT&T. Has anyone else had this problem with a Uverse reciever and this TV?
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post #544 of 2818 Old 05-28-2010, 02:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by movieguy163201 View Post

Menu, Power Options, Audio Only, Turn video off

Read the manual?

Wow.....at least you didn't say "RTFM"......most of us don't do that because we have great guys like you

Thanks to all regarding my questions....she is sitting next to me still in her cardboard home since we had guests last night and could not let her out.....but when I get home today!!!
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post #545 of 2818 Old 05-28-2010, 06:54 AM
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I've had the issue with Uverse and my 810. The handshake from the STB to the TV is where the issue is. I have temporarily switched to components. Some things that others have tried and worked are switching to different HDMI ports. Another suggestion from Uverse tech support is after you reset your box with HDMI connection and your TV is on Remove the HDMI cable and reset the STB, wait 5 minutes and plug the HDMI cable back in the STB. That method worked for a while, then I was back to reseting my STB each time. Tech also said the Aquos link was searching for something to connect to and to turn it off, if I had no Aquos devices.

Might try a few of those
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post #546 of 2818 Old 05-28-2010, 08:16 AM
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So I just got my 810 and have not had a chance to get it out of the box yet....The settings to use as a baseline I have what Movieguy suggested but I also see the reference to the flatpanelshd.com. The only thing I can find on flatpanelshd.com is for the 820......would those same settings be OK for the 810?

Any better settings?

Thanks and is it time to go home yet?
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post #547 of 2818 Old 05-28-2010, 08:37 AM
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Ok, this TV is finally showing up online and in store today in Canada. What's the word on it? Any good. My main focus is getting a TV with low Input lag for playing Video games. Sharp usually, in the past, had a reputation of getting low input lag. Any comments? Anything close to 20 to 30 ms would be good to me. The last few sets I've tried all had 50-60ms in game mode and I couldn't get pass the input lag to my taste.

I wasn't looking for a LED TV, just a LCD, but just finding any sharp here is a challenge for some reason. Right now, the 40LE810N sales for 1699.99$ which is high to my taste but I hope at some point sharps gets a promo in similar to what you guys had in the US to lower the cost.
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post #548 of 2818 Old 05-28-2010, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewS99 View Post

the CMS controls did almost nothing.

I agree the CMS settings appear to have minimal effect at first, and maybe that's a good thing. If you watch the color wheel at the bottom right and go from min-max you can see sections of the wheel changing color and crushing others out, so I think they are functional. I do find it very interesting your meter had you increase yellow hue. I dropped my yellow saturation a bit, otherwise people wearing yellow stuck out quite a bit. I also increased my green gains or grass would seem washed out.

Earlier someone posted about the purplish reds, and in order to get those out I had to adjust the first one (the one that says more magenta or more yellow reds) to more yellow. Also having Tint negative seemed to help in that regard quite a bit.

Additionally I dropped my color down a bit from zero to bring the yellow down a bit and that might be why I had to bump my green gain. But blues and reds seemed fine.

I also noticed that with gamma -1, I could get a great looking picture at night, but mid-day, it seemed too dark and the darker mid-tones would get so dark I could barely disern them from black. To compensate I've had to bump my gamma to +1 in daylight, and drop it back to -1 at night. That is probably entirely my room's fault, so obviously that's an installation specific problem.

Once you know, you can never go back.
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post #549 of 2818 Old 05-28-2010, 11:21 AM
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Sharp offered me a 52le810un as a replacement for my 52le700un. Are you guys happy with your 810s ? Any banding, motion issues, clouding, etc ? Does the yellow subpixel throw off the colors when calibrating ? I have a few days to decide if I should accept the set or get a refund.
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post #550 of 2818 Old 05-28-2010, 12:34 PM
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I am just now setting this up and I have not updated the firmware downloading and want to check out b4 updating), is this set really slow? Channel change & navigating the menu is extremely slow!!
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post #551 of 2818 Old 05-28-2010, 12:34 PM
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"Are you guys happy with your 810s ?"
I am very happy with my 40" 810.

"Any banding, motion issues, clouding, etc ?"
No, no, and no. No problems, except, now I'm watching way too much tv.

"Does the yellow subpixel throw off the colors when calibrating ?"
Not a problem as far as I can see, but, I am not a "professional" calibrator. I iniatially used as old calibrating disc I received from Circuit City, when I had bought my Samsung. Now, I just use my eyes as to make adjustments for my own taste. I really like the blacks, the perfect flesh tones I get, I like the very sharp picture and there are more than enough adjustments to keep you busy and tweak it to the hilt, to suite you.

So count me in as a big yes. I would buy it again without hesitation. I have found no problems at all using it with my new Pioneer BDP320 I just picked up. It is sweet!
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post #552 of 2818 Old 05-28-2010, 12:42 PM
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Yes, I have noticed the channel change speed seem a tad slower after updating my firmware.
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post #553 of 2818 Old 05-28-2010, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssmoothie View Post

Yes, I have noticed the channel change speed seem a tad slower after updating my firmware.

I have not updated mine yet....it will get worse?
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post #554 of 2818 Old 05-28-2010, 01:09 PM
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I was not paying much attention to the channel change speeds at first. I was mezmerized by the awesome picture I now had, kept tweaking it more, and kept playing all my dvd's through my upscaling dvd player, before I got my Pioneer blue ray. But as far as I can tell, yes it did seem a little faster at first. It's getting harder and harder for me to watch sd tv, after seeing so much awesome hd and picking up the blue ray player.

No, it does not show a remapped number in digital, but neither did the last Sony EX400 I had. So I don't miss it. I can see how you would, if you had it before.
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post #555 of 2818 Old 05-28-2010, 01:37 PM
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New calibration settings - this time with Power Saver OFF (was standard in the previous settings). This resulted in minor changes.

Only change I'm making here is that if the CMS controls work, it is quite possible that my Colorimeter (i1 Display 2) doesn't work right with them because HCFR barely registers change when I go from -30 to +30 on almost any of them. So I decided not to change CMS controls.

So....Gamma per HCFR stayed the same at 2.11 and contrast dropped a hair to 1780:1. DeltaE for 10%-100% grayscale ramps were all below 7 with the lower ranges being below 3.
The measured brightness was around 41 ftL after calibration so smack dab in the middle of the range for an LCD.
Backlight -2
Contrast +25
Brightness +1
Color +1
Tint -2
Sharpness 0
CMS Hue Keep at 0
CMS Saturation Keep at 0
CMS Value Keep at 0
Color Temp Low
R Gain (LO)+8
G Gain (LO)0
B Gain (LO)+25
R Gain (HI) +9
G Gain (HI)0
B Gain (HI) +17
Gamma -1

Any suggestions (color temp/gamma) that I should try I might get to on Sunday.

EDIT: Well....I found this quote: "Note that some new LED based displays can pose challenges for the EyeOne Display 2/LT (it does not matter if it is a edgelit, backlit or backlit RGB). The least expensive meters that can and do work correctly with LED displays are the DTP-94, Chroma 5 and ColorMunki that has been specially backlit LED calibrated for use with CalMAN (see below). The EyeOne Pro is also good choice for only a little more if you wish to remain somewhat future proof and ensure accuracy when calibrating LED backlit displays. "

EDIT x2: The above quote is from a site that sells pre calibrated colorimeters. The below quote is direct from the xrite site: "In house testing has demonstrated that LED backlit displays can be successfully calibrated and profiled using both colorimeters (i1Display 2, i1Display LT2) and spectrophotometers (i1Pro, ColorMunki Photo instruments)."

So now I don't know who to believe. :-P
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post #556 of 2818 Old 05-28-2010, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbonestl View Post

Good to hear that Sharp is really keeping up with these firmware update fixes! I have had 1 issue with this TV. I have Uverse (motorolla tuner) running HDMI to my Sharp 820. The issue is whenever I turn off my TV the Uverse box blue light starts blinking. I cannot get a picture unlesss I rest the Uverse box. Next time I go to watch TV I have to reset my Uverse box and it will work, but when I turn the TV back off I have the same issue again! This is completely annoying! I did not have this issue with my old television, so I am not sure what the issue is! I guess my next step is to either call Sharp or AT&T. Has anyone else had this problem with a Uverse reciever and this TV?

I have the 46LE810UN with U-verse and it does the same as your 820. I've tried every setting within the TV with no luck. I emailed Sharp and they said it's an AT&T issue. U-verse has always had HDMI issues, especially with Samsung. I also have an older 26" Aquos and the U-verse STB would fail handshaking with the TV occasionally. A U-verse firmware update fixed that issue about six months ago. Hopefully AT&T will fix the remaining HDMI bugs soon so we don't have to reset the U-verse STB each time we turn on the TV.
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post #557 of 2818 Old 05-28-2010, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssmoothie View Post

I was not paying much attention to the channel change speeds at first. I was mezmerized by the awesome picture I now had, kept tweaking it more, and kept playing all my dvd's through my upscaling dvd player, before I got my Pioneer blue ray. But as far as I can tell, yes it did seem a little faster at first. It's getting harder and harder for me to watch sd tv, after seeing so much awesome hd and picking up the blue ray player.

No, it does not show a remapped number in digital, but neither did the last Sony EX400 I had. So I don't miss it. I can see how you would, if you had it before.

"No, it does not show a remapped number in digital,"...
....well I tried to edit before anyone saw this but YES it does re-map to the original channel number (i.e. 7 analogue 7.1 digital)

And it's too soon for me to say NO to this set but so far the only problem I have with it is it's slow (I have the need for speed )
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post #558 of 2818 Old 05-28-2010, 02:55 PM - Thread Starter
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The menu isnt any slower or faster than other TVs menus.

I will say it not lightning quick, but when I had the EX700, the menu took like 5 seconds to appear after hitting the menu button, you would see the little loading icon on the upper right and Id be like "really"

Yes I wish it was faster but its not like gonna kill my experience with the TV as I dont have to go into the menu that much

Movieguy
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post #559 of 2818 Old 05-28-2010, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by movieguy163201 View Post

The menu isnt any slower or faster than other TVs menus.

I will say it not lightning quick, but when I had the EX700, the menu took like 5 seconds to appear after hitting the menu button, you would see the little loading icon on the upper right and Id be like "really"

Yes I wish it was faster but its not like gonna kill my experience with the TV as I dont have to go into the menu that much

Wonder what it's running for an OS.....wonder if we can add our on widgets?
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post #560 of 2818 Old 05-28-2010, 04:39 PM
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All, I have read through the majority of the pages within this thread and have gained great knowledge and insight on the 810/820 sets. I am ready to pull the trigger on a new HDTV (just moved from Louisiana to Ohio). I have taken a look at a couple of Samsung LED's and a Samsung and Panasonic plasma.

The Sharp 810/820 60" LED in Best Buy is very enticing to me. It has the size I am looking for and is at the right price point for me. So far, my takeaway is that this set has some of the most vibrant (very loud...almost pop out at you) colors I have seen. Granted, I am no home theatre professional, and I know opinions differ, but I find this set to have a very, very clear picture at times. One other interesting tidbit I will share is that I am really, really confused about this TV as far as it's brighness and black levels. I always have been under the impression that more light/brightness/backlighting would create a more charcoal/grey (or less deep of a black level). This set is the brightest set I have ever seen. In the store, even with others on their "kill" setting for lighting in stores, the Sharp LED 810/820 was significantly brighter than other sets. What is confusing me is the black levels I experienced with this set in the store. Granted, all sets are likely on different calibrations from the factory, but the set was significantly brighter and the black level was deeper than all but one Samsung LED set (including all plasma's on display!). I am still having a difficult time reconciling how the set can be so absolutely bright and have extremely impressive black level at the same time. I always thought these fought against one another?

The one issue I have noticed, albeit fairly major, (that does not appear to be able to be tuned out with calibration...) on each of the 60" display sets in three different BB's is that while displaying action/high speed shots, the picture appears to fragment. I have not noticed the "flickering" of the LED's. The issue I have seen looks like a lack of fluidity in higher speed/active motions on the screen. It appears to jump around or lag behind at times. Is one of the firmware upgrades mentioned above able to remedy this issue (including the backlight flickering, though I did not notice this in the store model TV..only the lagging/lack of fluidity in the picture)? I would really like to buy a display this weekend. I appreciate greatly any/all advice or feedback about this. This is a big purchase for me!

Thanks in advance!
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post #561 of 2818 Old 05-28-2010, 04:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoostedToy View Post

The one issue I have noticed, albeit fairly major, (that does not appear to be able to be tuned out with calibration...) on each of the 60" display sets in three different BB's is that while displaying action/high speed shots, the picture appears to fragment. I have not noticed the "flickering" of the LED's. The issue I have seen looks like a lack of fluidity in higher speed/active motions on the screen. It appears to jump around or lag behind at times. Is one of the firmware upgrades mentioned above able to remedy this issue (including the backlight flickering, though I did not notice this in the store model TV..only the lagging/lack of fluidity in the picture)?

Backlight problems are user-end problems with their controls, power savings, OPC, ect

The flickering you are talking about has pretty much been addressed in firmware updates, and I would assume that the TVs in BB have original firmware and not updated firmware, if you like, load the FW onto a USB jumpdrive and load it on the TV in the store and check it then.

There is still i think alittle bit of motion problems when using film mode in conjunction with 120Hz but I assume it will be addressed as Sharp is rolling out these FWs pretty frequently

Movieguy
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post #562 of 2818 Old 05-28-2010, 06:17 PM
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Thank you for the quick reply! This is very helpful. How do you like your set MovieGuy?

Thanks
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post #563 of 2818 Old 05-29-2010, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frantzj View Post

I have the 46LE810UN with U-verse and it does the same as your 820. I've tried every setting within the TV with no luck. I emailed Sharp and they said it's an AT&T issue. U-verse has always had HDMI issues, especially with Samsung. I also have an older 26" Aquos and the U-verse STB would fail handshaking with the TV occasionally. A U-verse firmware update fixed that issue about six months ago. Hopefully AT&T will fix the remaining HDMI bugs soon so we don't have to reset the U-verse STB each time we turn on the TV.

I purchased a 60LE810 last weekend from BB. After hooking it up to my Uverse we had the same problem.
Called Uverse, and they said to call Sharp.
Called Sharp, and they said to call Uverse back.
I had the Uverse DVR changed out today to the new and improved version, and it is still doing the same thing.
So now, along with putting up with the daily Uverse picture freeze that can run anywhere from 5 second to 15 minutes, and the daily loss of audio that makes listening to music an adventure, I now have to reboot the DVR every time we want to watch TV.
Looks like it's time to go back to DirecTV.
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post #564 of 2818 Old 05-29-2010, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewS99 View Post

New calibration settings - this time with Power Saver OFF (was standard in the previous settings). This resulted in minor changes.

Only change I'm making here is that if the CMS controls work, it is quite possible that my Colorimeter (i1 Display 2) doesn't work right with them because HCFR barely registers change when I go from -30 to +30 on almost any of them. So I decided not to change CMS controls.

So....Gamma per HCFR stayed the same at 2.11 and contrast dropped a hair to 1780:1. DeltaE for 10%-100% grayscale ramps were all below 7 with the lower ranges being below 3.
Backlight -2
Contrast +25
Brightness +1
Color +1
Tint -2
Sharpness 0
CMS Hue Keep at 0
CMS Saturation Keep at 0
CMS Value Keep at 0
Color Temp Low
R Gain (LO)+8
G Gain (LO)0
B Gain (LO)+25
R Gain (HI) +9
G Gain (HI)0
B Gain (HI) +17
Gamma -1

Any suggestions (color temp/gamma) that I should try I might get to on Sunday.

Andrew, so far, so GREAT on these settings! I am using them and they look great. Thanks!
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post #565 of 2818 Old 05-29-2010, 06:03 PM
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So, got a new update today.

All was good until I went to watch a movie from Netflix. After settling in I get a popup on the bottom left of the screen telling me the TV will turn off in 5 minutes due to "No Signal".

Huh? I'm watching a movie on Netflix.

So, 5 minutes later, off it goes. I turn it back on, all seems fine, so I start my movie again and again get the same warning.

This used to be a manual setting but I can't find it to turn it off now.

Apparently since the TV input is not getting a signal, it turns off Netflix. Which leads to my next problem. Why am I not getting a TV signal? I have a GE amplified antenna sitting behind the TV that has worked fine since day 1, but now all my channels come up with an error saying there's no signal.

I tried to rescan but it doesn't find anything and stays in analog mode instead of switching to digital.

I'm at a loss here.
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post #566 of 2818 Old 05-29-2010, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beltaine View Post

So, got a new update today.

All was good until I went to watch a movie from Netflix. After settling in I get a popup on the bottom left of the screen telling me the TV will turn off in 5 minutes due to "No Signal".

Huh? I'm watching a movie on Netflix.

So, 5 minutes later, off it goes. I turn it back on, all seems fine, so I start my movie again and again get the same warning.

This used to be a manual setting but I can't find it to turn it off now.

Apparently since the TV input is not getting a signal, it turns off Netflix. Which leads to my next problem. Why am I not getting a TV signal? I have a GE amplified antenna sitting behind the TV that has worked fine since day 1, but now all my channels come up with an error saying there's no signal.

I tried to rescan but it doesn't find anything and stays in analog mode instead of switching to digital.

I'm at a loss here.

For your first issue, hit MENU. Then, scroll to POWER CONTROL. Disable 'No Signal Off'. I would also disable the No Operation Off, as well. Not sure what to do about your second issue. My channels scanned fine.
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post #567 of 2818 Old 05-29-2010, 07:49 PM
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Hmmm.. maybe a stupid question, but I connected 2 xbox 360s via HDMI to the 810 and I'm not getting any picture at all when I select the appropriate input on the TV. Just a black screen appears... Am I supposed to do anything else?

I also have the Sharp set up as a second monitor via HDMI on input 7, but again.. only getting a black screen.

Regular OTA TV works though. Also "Audio Only" is off.
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post #568 of 2818 Old 05-29-2010, 08:00 PM
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Are the xbox's set up for hdmi output?
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post #569 of 2818 Old 05-29-2010, 08:02 PM
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My previous LCD detected HDMI input for the xbox 360's automatically so they should be HDMI by default.

Also my PC recognizes the Sharp as connected via HDMI, but I still don't get any picture when I select the input.

ok, Xbox via component worked earlier. Now when I select it again, no picture.. what the heck is going on with this set.

I've already updated the firmware to the latest too
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post #570 of 2818 Old 05-30-2010, 03:24 AM
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First time poster here, though I've lurked quite a bit. After a lot of time spent researching and pondering my first HDTV purchase, I decided to go with the Sharp 40" 810. I've been happy with it overall, but there have been a couple of issues, and since there seem to be some knowledgeable people floating around in this thread, I thought I'd ask about em here.

I checked pretty extensively for clouding/flashlighting, and only found a little bit. It's not too bad, and is really only visible under pretty specific lighting conditions. For just this, I probably wouldn't take the TV back. However...

Major problem #1: this is the most important problem. The audio and video are out of sync. I've seen some people talk about this issue in this thread, but it seemed like a firmware upgrade solved that problem. Well, I've updated the TV to the latest update, but the problem persists. Specifically, the audio lags behind the video slightly (so that it appears people begin moving their mouths a half a second before they actually speak). This has been happening consistently with multiple sources (computer, PS3, etc... I first noticed it while watching Blu-Ray movies on the PS3).

Major problem #2: this is a weird one. I hooked the computer up (using the 2nd of the two DVI-out ports on the video card) to the Sharp using a single DVI to HDMI cable. If I use the TV in "Dual View" along with my LCD monitor, everything is just fine. However, if I set the TV as the only display, then it's not so fine. Every few seconds, there is a sort of visual "hiccup"; everything freezes for less than a second, then jumps ahead just slightly as it resumes. This is, of course, hard to see when typing or browsing the web, but it was quite noticeable (and distractingly annoying) when watching any kind of video. And I'm talking about locally stored video files in iTunes or Media Player, not streamed stuff, so there's no internet connection issue interfering here. And again, this is only when the TV is used with the computer in Single Display mode; this problem does not crop up when I use both the TV and monitor in Dual View, nor have any problems like this come up when using the TV with my PS3.

Any thoughts on how I might try to solve either of these issues is appreciated! I'd rather not go to the hassle of lugging this thing all the way back to Best Buy, but I will if there's no way to fix these problems.
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