Official Sharp Aquos/Quattron LC-XXLE810UN/LC-XXLE820UN Owners Thread - Page 93 - AVS Forum
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post #2761 of 2818 Old 01-30-2012, 07:43 AM
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I have came to the conclusion that Chromawash's setting are either not for the 820 considering he has an 810, or are not for the European models considering he has a US model.

His color settings screw up my tv so bad. It is either pushing way to much green or way to much red.
There is no middle ground. The last cable settings I used were those from Haysen and they are 90% perfect with a few colors being a little off.
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post #2762 of 2818 Old 01-30-2012, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wyber View Post

I have came to the conclusion that Chromawash's setting are either not for the 820 considering he has an 810, or are not for the European models considering he has a US model.

His color settings screw up my tv so bad. It is either pushing way to much green or way to much red.
There is no middle ground. The last cable settings I used were those from Haysen and they are 90% perfect with a few colors being a little off.

I agree. I used his settings with my 810 us model and then checked them with my D3 using chromapure and they were way off especially in the white balance .
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post #2763 of 2818 Old 01-30-2012, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg76 View Post


I agree. I used his settings with my 810 us model and then checked them with my D3 using chromapure and they were way off especially in the white balance .

Very interesting. I use Chromawash settings with my US 810 and I like the results. I haven't measured them - just qualitative opinion. If you don't like his, what do you like better?
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post #2764 of 2818 Old 01-30-2012, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonCr View Post


Very interesting. I use Chromawash settings with my US 810 and I like the results. I haven't measured them - just qualitative opinion. If you don't like his, what do you like better?

I'm by no means an expert but I had a tough time getting anything I liked using 810 cms controls. Which lead me to buying a meter and software and eventually a DVDO iscan duo. I will take a look and see if I still have my last set of settings before buying the duo and post.
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post #2765 of 2818 Old 01-30-2012, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg76 View Post


I'm by no means an expert but I had a tough time getting anything I liked using 810 cms controls. Which lead me to buying a meter and software and eventually a DVDO iscan duo. I will take a look and see if I still have my last set of settings before buying the duo and post.

Thanks. If you have something you think is better, I'd be interfered in trying it out and see what I like better. I'm not familiar with the duo - did it give you good results? I know this TV has a reputation for inaccurate color, but I really like it.
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post #2766 of 2818 Old 01-30-2012, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonCr View Post


Thanks. If you have something you think is better, I'd be interfered in trying it out and see what I like better. I'm not familiar with the duo - did it give you good results? I know this TV has a reputation for inaccurate color, but I really like it.

The difference is night and day.
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post #2767 of 2818 Old 01-30-2012, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg76 View Post


The difference is night and day.

Would you be willing to list your settings after you adjusted it with the duo?
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post #2768 of 2818 Old 01-30-2012, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonCr View Post


Would you be willing to list your settings after you adjusted it with the duo?

I leave all of sharps cms set to zero and use the duos cms. Knowing what I know now which still is not a bunch I think the problem is that when you calibrate to certain saturation levels 75% or 100 % you get good results but the picture looks terrible. I don't think it works linear across all the different levels. Especially with reds and greens. I will post my calibration settings pre duo in the next day or two.
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post #2769 of 2818 Old 01-30-2012, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg76 View Post


I leave all of sharps cms set to zero and use the duos cms. Knowing what I know now which still is not a bunch I think the problem is that when you calibrate to certain saturation levels 75% or 100 % you get good results but the picture looks terrible. I don't think it works linear across all the different levels. Especially with reds and greens. I will post my calibration settings pre duo in the next day or two.

I looked up the duo and your posts now make more sense to me. I thought it was a calibration tool.
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post #2770 of 2818 Old 01-31-2012, 01:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frankz1 View Post

After a couple months of tweaking, I've arrived at settings I'm happy with on my 820.

My method was this: First, I got it as close as I could with the DVE Blu-Ray and color filters. Then I tweaked while watching programming using the colors of things I was familiar with (sports uniforms, stop signs, taxi cabs, etc). Then I took some high-res pictures of colorful things around the room and displayed them on the 820, tweaking by eye until the picture on the screen matched what I was seeing in real life.

Note these are for an 820 model, which may differ if you have an 810. I mainly watch HD television programming from FiOS. Don't know how these settings would play on games or Blu-Ray.

Mode Movie
OPC Off
Backlight -6
Contrast +31
Brightness -4
Color +6
Tint -5
Sharpness +1
CMS Hue
R +9
Y 0
G 0
C +10
B -9
M +15
CMS Saturation
R +2
Y -9
G +3
C +4
B -12
M -8
CMS Value
R -5
Y +5
G +6
C +11
B +6
M +4
Color Temp Mid-Low
R Gain (Lo) 0
G Gain (Lo) 0
B Gain (Lo) 0
R Gain (Hi) 0
G Gain (Hi) 0
B Gain (Hi) 0
Active Contrast Off
Gamma Adjustment 0
Digital Noise Reduction Off

Tried these for my 40' 820 model and they work like a charm.
These are even more accurate then the one's from Haysen and that is saying a lot in my book.
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post #2771 of 2818 Old 01-31-2012, 06:36 AM
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I love Chroma's settings on my 810 US version. Original firmware.

I have DirecTV and use the latest list 7 I think

If someone's got a better list, I'd love to try it.
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post #2772 of 2818 Old 02-06-2012, 03:10 PM
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[Lists moved to #2775]
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post #2773 of 2818 Old 02-08-2012, 10:47 PM
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These Sharps are not for most consumers. My wife hates it cause i have to change things while we watch. But she loves the picture I get, To make it easy if you don't like to have to adjust to different types of media buy the Sony from Wallmart. Cause when people come here I get nothing but love about my 40810
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post #2774 of 2818 Old 02-19-2012, 03:12 AM
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hello . I have a sharp 40le820

The problem > i can`t scan the digital channels only analog .

In the menu when i`m locking for the configuration the digital options it`s not available. Can someone tell me what can ai do?

My toth was that i have to make an update maybe.

this are the specification on the tv

Reception system

SDTV / HDTV (MPEG4, H.264) • / •
DVB-S / DVB-S2 - / -
DVB-C / DVB-C2 • / -
DVB-T / DVB-T2 • / -
Analog •
AQUOS NET + / AQUOS NET - / -
Colour system NTSC (AV In) / PAL / SECAM • / • / •

thx all.
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post #2775 of 2818 Old 02-24-2012, 12:19 PM
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[Lists moved to #2782]
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post #2776 of 2818 Old 02-25-2012, 07:36 PM
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I have found on my 810 that I have one "hot spot" on the bottom of the screen near each corner and they are really noticeable on white backgrounds like watching a hockey game. On white backgrounds the spots are brighter than the rest of the screen.

Seems strange that they are in the exact same spot on both sides of the screen.

Has anyone else encountered this?
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post #2777 of 2818 Old 02-29-2012, 08:21 AM
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I just purchased a LC-40LE810UN and the picture quality and colors are quite amazing. However, I'm having a major problem. When playing shows or movies, the speed/framerate seems to be about 10-20% too fast. The audio pitch is fine, but everything just moves too fast. It's very disconcerting to see... makes it appear that the film-making was amateurish.

This happens from different input sources (PS3 BD movies, Boxee Netflix app, etc, all with HDMI input), so I'm pretty sure it's a TV problem. It's almost like it's running at 50Hz instead of 60Hz or something.

Does anyone know of any settings/adjustments that would fix this?
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post #2778 of 2818 Old 03-01-2012, 10:57 AM
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FYI, I called Sharp customer service and got my issue (frame rate too fast) resolved. They had me turn off Motion Enhancement and Film Mode. Both of these settings had to be off for video to run at normal speed. Weird, but true.
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post #2779 of 2818 Old 03-05-2012, 01:55 AM
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Yeah I could have told you that... film mode skips frames and 120hz is just useless. I regret buying this tv, even though it does have a really nice still picture. After awhile I noticed where the flicker came from, the sharpness being higher than 0. The thing is, the picture looks terrible without any sharpness, especially with video games. Disapointing because even at +1 sharpness while playing a game, certain textures just constantly brighten and darken when the camera is turned or character is moved. It's the same effect that gives the flicker during movies or shows, like when you see a fence from a certain angle, or a certain design on a shirt, those spots will flicker when the camera moves. Doesnt do this on my 24 inch asus led computer monitor with the sharpness at max. The edge lighting on this tv is also annoying, takes a lot away from the depth. The screen is too damn reflective too, thought I could live with it but even with all the lights off during a really dark scene, I could see a reflection from the light the tv was putting out alone... This is the 820 UN by the way.
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post #2780 of 2818 Old 03-05-2012, 02:23 AM
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I'm not trying to insult anyone's intelligence. However, it seems like a lot of the photos and complaints i've been looking at about "clouding", "flashlighting" and "banding" are people not realizing what they are actually seeing. The white light effect that shows through on dark or black screens (usually appears around the edges) that people are calling clouding is actually the non uniform edge lighting. Same thing with people complaining of "banding". During a blue or cloudy or certain color scenes, you will notice what looks like "banding" when the camera pans or moves. This is also from the edge led, if you went to play mario 2 on the nes in the first level, as you move across the screen, you can see black "banding" showing up, pretty much in the same spots you would see the clouding during a black screen. It is only noticable during certain colors when a camera moves. This is another anamoly you get from the non-uniform edge lighting. I see these complaints made by most people that have an edge lit tv or monitor. My edge-lit computer monitor has these problems too, but its not nearly as noticable because its only 23 inches. Most people think their product is defective. So before you go looking to buy one of these, just remember, the regular ccfl backlight is going to be superior to edge-lit led unless you get a full back lit led array, which is going to be expensive, I believe there is an entire topic on the subject of edge vs full back lighting.
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post #2781 of 2818 Old 03-06-2012, 06:53 PM
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Im obviously a "noob" here, but I don't really understand how to use chromawash' settings?
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post #2782 of 2818 Old 03-20-2012, 05:33 PM
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[Lists #1-8 moved to #2790, new List #9 & revised Audio Settings added!]

 

Just one more correction to make to all Lists #1-8. Sharpness should be changed from +2 to 0. When it's at +2, it occasionally improves facial features in both standard and HD, however, there has turned out to be too much of a downside, this being too many flashing moire patterns, "busy" textures, and jittery lines. So just change it from +2 to 0.
 

[text cut]

 

{|{|{ Sound }|}|}
 

[Lists #1-8 moved to #2790, new List #9 & revised Audio Settings added!]

 

These are my best settings for the TV's speakers, although sound is still a bit muffled.

Initial Setup
Wall Mount Audio Setup> No

Audio Settings
Auto Volume> Middle
Treble> +4
Bass> +6
Surround> Off
Bass Enhancer> On
Clear Voice> Off

AUDIO button on remote> STEREO or SURROUND

Lists #6 and #7 are best for video sources other (OTHER) than those like (LIKE) my cable TV service. OTHER includes DVD/antenna/cable/satellite/PC/games/etc., and you can use any of Quattron's HDMI/antenna/component/composite inputs. List #6 has better saturation of certain shades of yellow, orange, green, and cyan, and better black level and viewing angle, but #7 has better dark scenes. The undersaturated colors of List #7 are very noticeable in test patterns, but hardly ever in TV shows. List #7 seems better than #6.

Lists #2, #5, and #8 are best for LIKE video sources. List #5 has about a 75% net reduction of color inaccuracies over List #2, with better red, skin tones, yellow, blue, magenta, bright scenes, and definition of highly saturated colors. List #2 has better orange, green, purple, black level, and viewing angle. List #8 is about as good as List #5, and since it uses USER rather than GAME mode, you can easily switch to it if you want to keep GAME reserved for DVD/antenna/etc. settings.

All lists may only work for the U.S. model. None seems to have much if any bluish cast. Picture quality is mostly very good, sometimes excellent, but occasionally fair, especially for scenes that have a lot of specific inaccurate shades of color, dark colors, highly saturated colors, or pallid, washed-out colors. If Lists #1-7 don't look similar, or the colors are wrong, then you might have a different cable service, a different Quattron model, or different firmware installed.

Lists #3 and #4 have superior definition in areas of high color saturation, but #4 has mediocre color accuracy. Trying to improve definition by reducing Contrast and increasing Backlight makes all colors "smoky" and hurts viewing angle and black level. Trying to improve brightness by increasing Color Temp. for Blue makes all colors bluish, which can only be partially corrected with CMS-Hue.

It's been about a year since I posted my first color settings here for the U.S. model LC-40LE810UN (the 810) Sharp Quattron. I thought it would be impossible to improve color accuracy and definition this much due to this model's firmware constraints. I still doubt this model's color inaccuracies can be totally solved without new firmware. Presumably a firmware error causes a "spectrum compression problem," as I previously explained, which compresses and expands all the RYGCBM segments of the spectrum. Another problem is Brightness level causes a "hazy" reduction of viewing angle in certain rare scenes. I think Sharp could provide new firmware to more thoroughly solve these problems. One problem that I doubt could be improved is seemingly a bit greater loss of color with increasing viewing angle than for other LCD technology, and is probably due to Quattron's elongated RYGB pixels. If you're used to watching LCD sets, then it's usually only bothersome in certain rare scenes full of pallid, washed-out colors (certain old movies, etc.).

I figured out that Quattron's firmware distorts colors in my cable TV signal in a different, specific way than in other video sources. Not only that, but even the cable company itself distorts some colors in the original broadcast signal, like reds and skin tones. These inaccuracies are in addition to the Quattron firmware's spectrum compression inaccuracies.

This Quattron model has a brightness glitch. I was changing settings in MOVIE and DYNAMIC and it wasn't working out, but a little while later, all modes became blindingly bright. To get normal brightness in GAME I had to change Backlight from -7 to -12. This is the same problem I was having a year ago. So then I tried setting Backlight levels in MOVIE and DYNAMIC to -12, where I had left them about a year ago. This didn't fix it, so I turned off the TV, and when I turned it back on, brightness in all modes was mysteriously restored to normal. IMPORTANT: Backlight must be set to -12 in both MOVIE and DYNAMIC modes for correct brightness with Lists #1-8. If not already set to -12, then you must set them both to -12, turn off the TV, wait several seconds, then turn on the TV.

Since my last post in May, I have not had any more problems with clouding, or with occasional, sudden oversaturation of colors after switching INPUTs or AV MODEs, which was correctable by switching around a few more times. I think these problems may have been stopped just by using these lists. Changing the settings of STANDARD mode to List #4 may have been the key to stopping these problems, since none has recurred after that.

I think all new Sharp TVs are Quattrons, but I don't know if the latest models have corrected firmware.

 

[Lists #1-8 moved to #2790, new List #9 & revised Audio Settings added!]

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post #2783 of 2818 Old 03-22-2012, 05:03 PM
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Do I have to reset and reenter all values or can I just change sharpness from +2 to 0?

Quote:
Originally Posted by chromawash View Post

Just one more correction to make to all Lists #1-8. Sharpness should be changed from +2 to 0. When it's at +2, it occasionally improves facial features in both standard and HD, however, there has turned out to be too much of a downside, this being too many flashing moire patterns, "busy" textures, and jittery lines. So just change it from +2 to 0.

{|{|{ Color }|}|}

List # 1(LIKE)___2(LIKE)___3(LIKE)___4(LIKE & OTHER)___5(LIKE)___6(OTHER)___7(OTHER)___8(LIKE)

Power Control
Power Saving> Off (eliminates flickering)

Picture Settings
AV Mode> USER___GAME___PC___STANDARD___GAME___GAME___GAME___USER (only in USER mode can color settings be individualized per INPUTs 1-7/TV)
Reset> Yes (you must select this prior to the others in this menu)
OPC> Off
Backlight> -12___-11___-3___-6___-8___-10___-10___-10 (-12 to -8; values greater than -8 hurt black level and viewing angle)
Contrast> +28___+26___+20___+20___+20___+23___+24___+22
Brightness> -3 (tolerable viewing angle) or -2 (better shadow detail)
Color> +11___+6___+8___0 (LIKE) or -5 (OTHER)___+1___0___+1___+1
Tint> 0___+6___0___-7___-9___-9___-9___-9
Sharpness> 0 (+2 improves faces rarely, especially standard definition)

CMS-Hue
R> 0___0___+8___+20___+18___+24___+23___+22
Y> 0___0___-8___0___+3___-1___-4___-2
G> 0___-22___-18___-30___+4___+4___+4___-1
C> +12___+8___+14___+30___+18___+19___+19___+23
B> -18___-18___-23___-16___-17___-15___-15___-18
M> +22___+16___+27___+30___+29___+23___+30___+30

CMS-Saturation
R> +20___+25___+25___+27___+30___+11___+10___+30
Y> -11___-11___-5___+2___+6___+1___+1___+4
G> 0___0___+14___-15___-3___-16___-15___+5
C> +14___+19___+29___+16___+29___+24___+29___+30
B> -22___-15___-8___-19___+4___-11___-14___0
M> +14___+16___+18___+29___+30___+21___+17___+30

CMS-Value
R> +13___+16___+17___+27___+30___+30___+30___+30
Y> +8___+11___+16___+29___+30___+30___+30___+30
G> +30___+30___+30___+30___+30___+30___+30___+30
C> +19___+21___+24___+19___+29___+28___+29___+30
B> +9___+8___+15___+16___+14___+16___+16___+16
M> +16___+13___+10___+19___+18___+29___+25___+16

Color Temp.> Middle___High___High___Middle___Middle___Middle___Middle___H igh (you must select this prior to the others in this menu)
R> 0___+30___+30___+17___+30___+30___+30___+30
G> 0___+30___+20___+30___+30___+30___+30___+30
B> 0___0___0___+21___+17___+17___+17___0
R> +1___+30___+30___+17___+30___+30___+30___+30
G> 0___+30___+15___+30___+30___+30___+30___+30
B> 0___0___0___+21___+17___+17___+17___0

Motion Enhancement> Off (Motion Enhancement may wear out TVs faster, so use only as needed)
Active Contrast> Off
Gamma Adjustment> 0 (other values hurt viewing angle and color accuracy)
Digital Noise Reduction> Off

In order of most to least degree of inaccuracy and relative occurrence, the main inaccurate shades are certain shades of (Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Cyan, Blue, Purple, Magenta, BRown, BlacK):

List # 1___2___3___4___5___6___7___8

1) Y-G #1 (darker)___Y-G #1 (darker)___all colors (slightly darker)___O (yellower)___G (darker)___Y (oversaturated, undersaturated)___G (undersaturated)___ approx. same as List #5 but a bit worse
2) R-O and skin tones (oversaturated or undersaturated [Y light shining on skin tones tends to be oversaturated])___G (Y-ish, darker, oversaturated, aquamarine-C undersaturated)___Y (G-ish)___B (undersaturated, oversaturated, darker, P-ish)___O (undersaturated or yellower)___G (darker, oversaturated, yellower)___O (yellower)
3) C (undersaturated or greenish)___Y (G-ish)___dark B (much darker)___G (yellower)___BR (undersaturated, lighter)___O (undersaturated, yellower)___C (undersaturated)
4) M (undersaturated)___BR (undersaturated)___dark G (much darker)___Y (oversaturated, G-ish)___dark shades (darker)___P (bluer)___Y (undersaturated)
5) P (B-ish)___M (undersaturated)___B (undersaturated, brighter, or P-ish)___P (bluer)
6) B (P-ish)___P (B-ish)___R-Y (R subtracted)___P (bluer)___M (redder)
7) O (undersaturated, Y-ish)___O (undersaturated, Y-ish)___P (B-ish)___M (undersaturated)___any highly saturated color (definition loss)
8) G (oversaturated or lighter)___B (P-ish or lighter)___any highly saturated color (definition loss)___same as List #3___Y (oversaturated, greener)
9) Y-G #2 (G subtracted)___R, R-O and skin tones (M-ish, undersaturated, oversaturated [Y light shining on skin tones tends to be oversaturated])___?___?___C (undersaturated)
10) Y (oversaturated or G-ish)___any highly saturated color (definition loss)___?___?___B (lighter, darker)
11) any color (whitish tint added; extremely scarce, but very scarce if using setting for better shadow detail)___same as List #1
12) any highly saturated color (definition loss)___R (darker, undersaturated, oversaturated, lighter)
13) R (undersaturated, oversaturated, lighter)___B-BK (bluer)
14) B-BK (bluer)

(? = unknown or imperceptible)

{|{|{ Sound }|}|}

These are my best settings for the TV's speakers, although sound is still a bit muffled.

Initial Setup
Wall Mount Audio Setup> No

Audio Settings
Auto Volume> Middle
Treble> +4
Bass> +6
Surround> Off
Bass Enhancer> On
Clear Voice> Off

AUDIO button on remote> STEREO or SURROUND

Lists #6 and #7 are best for video sources other (OTHER) than those like (LIKE) my cable TV service. OTHER includes DVD/antenna/cable/satellite/PC/games/etc., and you can use any of Quattron's HDMI/antenna/component/composite inputs. List #6 has better saturation of certain shades of yellow, orange, green, and cyan, and better black level and viewing angle, but #7 has better dark scenes. The undersaturated colors of List #7 are very noticeable in test patterns, but hardly ever in TV shows. List #7 seems better than #6.

Lists #2, #5, and #8 are best for LIKE video sources. List #5 has about a 75% net reduction of color inaccuracies over List #2, with better red, skin tones, yellow, blue, magenta, bright scenes, and definition of highly saturated colors. List #2 has better orange, green, purple, black level, and viewing angle. List #8 is about as good as List #5, and since it uses USER rather than GAME mode, you can easily switch to it if you want to keep GAME reserved for DVD/antenna/etc. settings.

All lists may only work for the U.S. model. None seems to have much if any bluish cast. Picture quality is mostly very good, sometimes excellent, but occasionally fair, especially for scenes that have a lot of specific inaccurate shades of color, dark colors, highly saturated colors, or pallid, washed-out colors. If Lists #1-7 don't look similar, or the colors are wrong, then you might have a different cable service, a different Quattron model, or different firmware installed.

Lists #3 and #4 have superior definition in areas of high color saturation, but #4 has mediocre color accuracy. Trying to improve definition by reducing Contrast and increasing Backlight makes all colors "smoky" and hurts viewing angle and black level. Trying to improve brightness by increasing Color Temp. for Blue makes all colors bluish, which can only be partially corrected with CMS-Hue.

It's been about a year since I posted my first color settings here for the U.S. model LC-40LE810UN (the 810) Sharp Quattron. I thought it would be impossible to improve color accuracy and definition this much due to this model's firmware constraints. I still doubt this model's color inaccuracies can be totally solved without new firmware. Presumably a firmware error causes a "spectrum compression problem," as I previously explained, which compresses and expands all the RYGCBM segments of the spectrum. Another problem is Brightness level causes a "hazy" reduction of viewing angle in certain rare scenes. I think Sharp could provide new firmware to more thoroughly solve these problems. One problem that I doubt could be improved is seemingly a bit greater loss of color with increasing viewing angle than for other LCD technology, and is probably due to Quattron's elongated RYGB pixels. If you're used to watching LCD sets, then it's usually only bothersome in certain rare scenes full of pallid, washed-out colors (certain old movies, etc.).

I figured out that Quattron's firmware distorts colors in my cable TV signal in a different, specific way than in other video sources. Not only that, but even the cable company itself distorts some colors in the original broadcast signal, like reds and skin tones. These inaccuracies are in addition to the Quattron firmware's spectrum compression inaccuracies.

This Quattron model has a brightness glitch. I was changing settings in MOVIE and DYNAMIC and it wasn't working out, but a little while later, all modes became blindingly bright. To get normal brightness in GAME I had to change Backlight from -7 to -12. This is the same problem I was having a year ago. So then I tried setting Backlight levels in MOVIE and DYNAMIC to -12, where I had left them about a year ago. This didn't fix it, so I turned off the TV, and when I turned it back on, brightness in all modes was mysteriously restored to normal. IMPORTANT: Backlight must be set to -12 in both MOVIE and DYNAMIC modes for correct brightness with Lists #1-8. If not already set to -12, then you must set them both to -12, turn off the TV, wait several seconds, then turn on the TV.

Since my last post in May, I have not had any more problems with clouding, or with occasional, sudden oversaturation of colors after switching INPUTs or AV MODEs, which was correctable by switching around a few more times. I think these problems may have been stopped just by using these lists. Changing the settings of STANDARD mode to List #4 may have been the key to stopping these problems, since none has recurred after that.

I think all new Sharp TVs are Quattrons, but I don't know if the latest models have corrected firmware.

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post #2784 of 2818 Old 05-28-2012, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wyber View Post

Tried these for my 40' 820 model and they work like a charm.
These are even more accurate then the one's from Haysen and that is saying a lot in my book.

Quote:
Originally Posted by frankz1 View Post

After a couple months of tweaking, I've arrived at settings I'm happy with on my 820.

My method was this: First, I got it as close as I could with the DVE Blu-Ray and color filters. Then I tweaked while watching programming using the colors of things I was familiar with (sports uniforms, stop signs, taxi cabs, etc). Then I took some high-res pictures of colorful things around the room and displayed them on the 820, tweaking by eye until the picture on the screen matched what I was seeing in real life.

Note these are for an 820 model, which may differ if you have an 810. I mainly watch HD television programming from FiOS. Don't know how these settings would play on games or Blu-Ray.

Mode Movie
OPC Off
Backlight -6
Contrast +31
Brightness -4
Color +6
Tint -5
Sharpness +1
CMS Hue
R +9
Y 0
G 0
C +10
B -9
M +15
CMS Saturation
R +2
Y -9
G +3
C +4
B -12
M -8
CMS Value
R -5
Y +5
G +6
C +11
B +6
M +4
Color Temp Mid-Low
R Gain (Lo) 0
G Gain (Lo) 0
B Gain (Lo) 0
R Gain (Hi) 0
G Gain (Hi) 0
B Gain (Hi) 0
Active Contrast Off
Gamma Adjustment 0
Digital Noise Reduction Off

Been trying all of chromas settings for well over a year now on my 810. For the xbox, they have always been excellent for gaming but I was never happy with any of them for watching FIOS. For some reason they always felt like they had too much of a blueish hue. Just switched to the above settings while watching the an NBA game, instantly made a noticeable difference for the better. Thanks to both!
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post #2785 of 2818 Old 05-29-2012, 12:23 PM
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Hi all,

This is the closest thread I could find to the TV I'm looking at. I just signed for a Sharp 55" 240hz w/ all the bells and whistles for $1999. As I left though I find the exact same TV as a 60", specifically Sharp - AQUOS Quattron / 60" Class / LED / 1080p / 240Hz / Smart / 3D / HDTV
Model: LC-60LE845U for $100 cheaper. All my homework shows the only difference that the larger TV has the Aquos Quattron technology with the additional yellow light added. Before I go with the larger TV, what's the real deal about the AQUOS Quatton technology vs the standard Sharp tv's? Better? Worse? I'm assuming there's some downside picture quality wise that I'm not seeing since the 55" was marked down $200 but the 60" is marked down $1000. Any quick advise is appreciated. PS-They're both 2011 models and I don't really care about the apps becuase I'm going to use my laptop as the main brain. I hate when they filter out results.
NOTE: it's the 845 model. I notice you're all talking abou the 847's and 849's. Is there something about the 845 that's an issue.
Again thanks for any feedback.
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post #2786 of 2818 Old 06-03-2012, 12:05 AM
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hey guys those of you with a 360 or ps3 whats the best settings for you for the 810?
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post #2787 of 2818 Old 08-06-2012, 03:17 AM
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Ok, got the sound part figured out but not the second question..

I have an EL820UN (52"0) and I have a question.

The volume isn't loud enough so I hooked up a set of external speakers through the audio out connector (2.5 or 3.5mm connector). Everything works fine
but now I hear both the tv and the speakers.

Is there any way to set it so that I hear ONLY the external speakers but can control the volume of them with the tv volume control?

In the old days, plugging something in used to disable the external speakers.


By the way, I have another question.

I just got an AIOS media player and it has a bunch of settings on it including proportions (16:9 and so on) and quality settings like 1080p 50hz or whatever.
Can someone tell me what I HAVE and what it should be set to?

Thanks

George
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post #2788 of 2818 Old 09-12-2012, 05:59 AM
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Hi,

I have been searchin the thread to find some decent setting for Xbox 360, but because the thread too large I really can not find it frown.gif

And also, when I search the forum for dogfather settings, I cant find it either.

Can anyone please help me about it, I have tried some settings but getting too much blue tint at dark scenes(and night scenes also)
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post #2789 of 2818 Old 09-17-2012, 01:00 PM
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Howdy Folks,

This is my first post and , although I'd rather it had been to introduce myself, I'd like to thank movieguy163201 for starting this thread and everyone else who has participated.

I''ve been considering buying the LC-40LE810UN so this has been a very helpful thread. I'm still on the fence only for one reason and that is the TV is a couple years dated. Although the one I'm looking at is manufacturer refurbished and will be purchased from a very reputable dealer I'm wondering if, for the same money, I can get a current television of the same or better quality. (?)

Thanks again folks.

Al
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post #2790 of 2818 Old 11-28-2012, 04:25 PM
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[Lists #1-9 moved to #2794]
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Reply LCD Flat Panel Displays

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