Originally Posted by xdajzax
...THe TV now turns on, but the picture is dim. I have the contrast and brightness up 100% with backlight on 10 and it's still dim
Originally Posted by walford Try changing your settings for backlighting, brightness, and contrast each at 50% and adjust from there.
If you were running with real low backlighting and realhigh brightness that is probably what caused the power supply overload condition on the capacitors.
Originally Posted by xdajzax
...I have tried to up the brightness and the contrast all the way and the picture was still dim.
I went in to the service menu and increased the gain on the brightness to its maximum from 128 to 255. This made the overall picture brighter and allowed me to reset the brightness and contrast on the main menu lower. However, now, I have some backbleeding from the LCD
Originally Posted by walford I suggested that set them all at 50% and then adjust them to values you like better. I feepl that your number 1 problem is having the backlignting set so low that even maximum brightness and contrast don't help. Remember if there was no backlighting you would see nothing.
Originally Posted by xdajzax walford, I am confused. can u explain in more detail?
Do I go into the main menu, set the backlight, contrast, brightness to 50%, then go into the service menu and set the brightness and contrast there? There is no setting to set the backlight in the service menu.
I did do the above. My problem is that looking at posted calibration settings that most people use, the brightness gain in the service menu on most of these are ~128. If I use that setting, (which it was on), teh picture is dim. I have to jack it up to 255. Although this fixes the dim picture, it causes back bleeding. I don't know why this is the case
Originally Posted by walford Just use the normal setting menus and start each of the three functions at a starting value of 50%
Then try adjusting the backlighting up or down about 5% to get the best image then do the same for the brightness and then the same for the contrast. You might go through this cycle a couple of times
In the interest of saving your TV from any further unnecessary damage, I'm going to be BLUNT!
First of all, walford
has been *VERY* polite and PATIENT with you. He posted the correct answer in Post #2, but you didn't 'listen'
. In the interest of saving your television, I'm going to be more direct.
Second, you cannot just expect to 'read a book' and then go perform open heart surgery on someone. Folks without the proper technical background cannot expect to 'read a forum' and then go perform electronics tasks like a skilled professional. When I determine that a person's skill set isn't up to the task they are attempting, I immediately stop and point it out. Safety is more important than hurting someone's feelings.
So, more BLUNTLY than above, here's your problem (with several examples that may help you 'see the light'):
- You driving your car, you've got your foot to the floor / accelerator pedal all the way down and you can't go over 10 mph because the fuel filter is clogged, restricting the flow of gasoline to the cylinders no matter how far down you push the accelerator pedal.
- Backlight = Fuel Filter
- Brightness = Accelerator Pedal
- You're watering your shrubs, pulling the hose around the yard and suddenly the water output drops to a trickle. The valve at the house is open full, you squeeze the spray attachment with all your might, the water still just dribbles out. You got a KINK 'somewhere' in the hose.
- Backlight = KINK
- Brightness = Spray Attachment
You can also REVERSE this hose example:
- You're washing your car and suddenly the water output drops to a trickle. One of your children decided to 'slightly close' the valve at the house. You squeeze the spray attachment with all your might, the water still just dribbles out.
- Backlight = House Valve
- Brightness = Spray Attachment
- Imagine inserting an incandecent 'Lamp Dimmer' control into the circuit for the lamp in a slide or movie projector.
- Turn the dimmer down to 10%.
- What will be the resultant SCREEN IMAGE?
- Turn the dimmer up to 100%.
- What will be the resultant BULB LIFE?
- Turn the dimmer down to 50%.
- -What will be the resultant SCREEN IMAGE *AND* BULB LIFE?
With practically EVERYTHING in life - EXERCISE MODERATION!; *NEVER* operate devices at 100% unless you have to.
I can understand your desire to prolong BACKLIGHT life by running it low. But, since that resulted in the need to run BRIGHTNESS and CONTRAST @ 100%, that should have given you a clue that 'something was wrong'. By continuing to ignore walford
and now going into the SERVICE MENU (where you don't belong!) and cranking another setting up from 50% to 100%, you're *REALLY* looking to kill that television.
You've got a CLOGGED FUEL FILTER MAN!!!
Plain-and-simple, here's what you SHOULD do:
- Go back into the SERVICE MENU and reset WHATEVER you touched back to what it was (Factory Defaults).
- LOWER your BRIGHTNESS and CONTRAST to 50%.
- RAISE your BACKLIGHT to 50%.
- EVALUATE the picture quality.
- If unsatisfactory, adjust ONE control at a time up or down 5% and re-evaluate.
- If *ANY* control ends up LT 10% or GT 90%, re-think what you've done.
- If satisfactory, you're DONE!.
I've been fooling with televisions (i.e. repairing my own) for ~40 years. I took the Bell & Howell course, built my own HeathKit 25" Color TV (Oscilloscope, Nixie-tube DVM), yada, yada, yada...
A SIMPLE method that I picked up along the way for initially setting the controls on a new (CRT) Color TV is as follows:
- Set the COLOR, BRIGHTNESS and CONTRAST to 0%.
- Set the SHARPNESS to 25%
- Set the TINT to 50%
- Raise the BRIGHTNESS until the BLACK areas just start to get lighter. "BRIGHTNESS controls BLACK"
- Raise the CONTRAST until the WHITE areas get white WITHOUT blooming. "CONTRAST controls WHITE"
- Raise the COLOR until the skin tones look natural, not bright.
- If the skin tones look 'off' (i.e. green or purple), tweak the TINT.
- Sit back and watch a while...
When you ask for help from folks on a public forum, you also have to both 'listen' to their answers *AND* determine if you possess the appropriate skill set to attempt to correct the problem at hand...