Official Sony KDL-xxHX800 Owners Thread - Page 34 - AVS Forum
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post #991 of 2602 Old 12-02-2010, 01:22 PM
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Just got a 46HX800 2 days ago. For the most part love the tv. And it is much better than the NX800 I had for one day before returning to BB because of clouding, and a distinct blue tinit if you sat mroe than 3 feet from center 11' away from center. But i do have an issue. There is a off color/slightly whitish line about an inch thick about 5 inches down from the top of the screen. Similar to what cainmarko is describing, only one line. There is a little clouding in the corners, but that is only noticeable on totally black screens. Even the darkest images look fine in the corners. But the line is noticeable in movies, not all, but some. The Last Waltz on Blu Ray was bad, as was The Princess and the Frog recorded in HD off Starz on VerizonFIOS. Settings have been pulled from here and modified a bit for personal taste (Thanks OmarF, amatot, Bruce and deadman):

backlight 3
Bright: 51
Picture: 90
Image Warm2
color: 52
MF:smooth
CM: auto 1 (line is the same if these 2 are off)

Messing with other "enhancements" and settings do not make a difference.
White balance has RGain at -2. I find Warm 2 to be too red so bringing this down 2 is more to my liking.

TV was manufactured in May 2010, but just bought. Would I have better luck or worse with a newer one?

I don't want to be a pain, but the line seems to be a flaw in the screen, am I wrong in wanting a better screen?
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post #992 of 2602 Old 12-02-2010, 01:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Winky65 View Post

Just got a 46HX800 2 days ago. For the most part love the tv. And it is much better than the NX800 I had for one day before returning to BB because of clouding, and a distinct blue tinit if you sat mroe than 3 feet from center 11' away from center. But i do have an issue. There is a off color/slightly whitish line about an inch thick about 5 inches down from the top of the screen. Similar to what cainmarko is describing, only one line. There is a little clouding in the corners, but that is only noticeable on totally black screens. Even the darkest images look fine in the corners. But the line is noticeable in movies, not all, but some. The Last Waltz on Blu Ray was bad, as was The Princess and the Frog recorded in HD off Starz on VerizonFIOS. Settings have been pulled from here and modified a bit for personal taste (Thanks OmarF, amatot, Bruce and deadman):

backlight 3
Bright: 51
Picture: 90
Image Warm2
color: 52
MF:smooth
CM: auto 1 (line is the same if these 2 are off)

Messing with other "enhancements" and settings do not make a difference.
White balance has RGain at -2. I find Warm 2 to be too red so bringing this down 2 is more to my liking.

TV was manufactured in May 2010, but just bought. Would I have better luck or worse with a newer one?

I don't want to be a pain, but the line seems to be a flaw in the screen, am I wrong in wanting a better screen?

I wouldnt accept a line running across th middle ofmy screen. And its not related to letterboxing, is it?

Omar
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post #993 of 2602 Old 12-02-2010, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Winky65 View Post

Just got a 46HX800 2 days ago. For the most part love the tv. And it is much better than the NX800 I had for one day before returning to BB because of clouding, and a distinct blue tinit if you sat mroe than 3 feet from center 11' away from center. But i do have an issue. There is a off color/slightly whitish line about an inch thick about 5 inches down from the top of the screen. Similar to what cainmarko is describing, only one line. There is a little clouding in the corners, but that is only noticeable on totally black screens. Even the darkest images look fine in the corners. But the line is noticeable in movies, not all, but some. The Last Waltz on Blu Ray was bad, as was The Princess and the Frog recorded in HD off Starz on VerizonFIOS. Settings have been pulled from here and modified a bit for personal taste (Thanks OmarF, amatot, Bruce and deadman):

backlight 3
Bright: 51
Picture: 90
Image Warm2
color: 52
MF:smooth
CM: auto 1 (line is the same if these 2 are off)

Messing with other "enhancements" and settings do not make a difference.
White balance has RGain at -2. I find Warm 2 to be too red so bringing this down 2 is more to my liking.

TV was manufactured in May 2010, but just bought. Would I have better luck or worse with a newer one?

I don't want to be a pain, but the line seems to be a flaw in the screen, am I wrong in wanting a better screen?

+1 to what Omar says. You might want to try and eliminate variables and direct connect stuff and/or swap cables to see what changes but the simpler solution is just to exchange the set and try a second one. If things persist something else is going on and you can work from there...
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post #994 of 2602 Old 12-02-2010, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by amatot View Post

+1 to what Omar says. You might want to try and eliminate variables and direct connect stuff and/or swap cables to see what changes but the simpler solution is just to exchange the set and try a second one. If things persist something else is going on and you can work from there...

Thanks both of you. It is not letterboxing. It si about 5 inches down from the top all the way across. Does not show up all the time. But shows up on 2 different HDMI connections straight to the tv (PS3 and TIVO box). It does look like it is in the tv and not cables or connections. I absolutely love the picture quality this issue notwithstanding.

I will hit the store tomorrow. Thanks again.
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post #995 of 2602 Old 12-02-2010, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Winky65 View Post

Thanks both of you. It is not letterboxing. It si about 5 inches down from the top all the way across. Does not show up all the time. But shows up on 2 different HDMI connections straight to the tv (PS3 and TIVO box). It does look like it is in the tv and not cables or connections. I absolutely love the picture quality this issue notwithstanding.

I will hit the store tomorrow. Thanks again.

Hey Winky, I'm curious, what's your serial number? The reason I ask is because my set is from May as well and I'm interested in trying to get some visability to just how many of these sets they produce in a month - roughly.
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post #996 of 2602 Old 12-02-2010, 04:41 PM
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I've read through this thread but have not seen any reference to this. I was wondering if anyone has found a "pause" button function when the remote is programed for directv receiver? Have found every other function but no pause. The center of the multidirection button that works for Netflix doesn't function for Directv.
Thanks in advance
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post #997 of 2602 Old 12-02-2010, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by amatot View Post

Hey Winky, I'm curious, what's your serial number? The reason I ask is because my set is from May as well and I'm interested in trying to get some visability to just how many of these sets they produce in a month - roughly.

8000775.

I read somewhere in here that someone was happy because their tv had a #15 SN. any idea what part of the number that is and why that would be good?
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post #998 of 2602 Old 12-02-2010, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Winky65 View Post

8000775.

I read somewhere in here that someone was happy because their tv had a #15 SN. any idea what part of the number that is and why that would be good?

Thanks. That was me btw. I picked up my set just a few months ago and was shocked I scored one so low. The higher order numbers are usually the series designation, the rest is the serial number, so yours is number 775 which is still pretty low. Mfg process control tends to start off pretty tight with the launch of any a new model series but that doesn't necessarily translate to better quality in all cases. Once they start cranking these out at rates near or in the 10's of thousands per month, things have an opportunity of getting sloppy but sometimes you just never know. I'm just curious to see how high the serial numbers go for any particular month - sort of a pet project on the side.
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post #999 of 2602 Old 12-02-2010, 05:57 PM
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Could some one explain the Motion Plus settings. What's the best setting for hockey? Smooth or Clear 1? Are they both 240Hz?
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post #1000 of 2602 Old 12-02-2010, 07:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OmarF View Post

http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/sony-...0100925858.htm

Unless a player is a total piece of junk, or if it is sending an analog signal, there should be very little variation. I recommend a ps3, personally.

Ive detailed how to set gamma, wb and color for this set in my long post, its also cross posted in the calibrations thread. Cal patterns are essential to know what it is youre actually seeing, but only your eyes can tell you if you like it. I recommend adjusting your set in that order, otherwise every time your pupils dialate you will be "seeing things you never saw before" and then the next day they will be gone, and youll spend forever calibating and become frustrated. DVE has a great amount of information about calibrations in it. However, it has no dedicatec pattern for gamma. The consensus seems to be that if youre using the ambient sensor as i do, set i at 0, if not, set it at -1. WB sertings vary from set to set, however there is a built in advantage in this set that i cover in my long post, that will allow you to set WB pretty well by eye. Otherwise you can pay a pro.

Omar

Omar, I don't mean to be dense, but basically you can't set gamma without equipment, am I correct? I tried setting the gamma at 0 and using the ambient sensor, but the picture appears too dark in my viewing room (pretty dark, rarely have any lights on). If I shut it off, the picture sometimes is too bright (what would help here-lowering the contrast?).
Thanks again
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post #1001 of 2602 Old 12-02-2010, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by amatot View Post

Once they start cranking these out at rates near or in the 10's of thousands per month, things have an opportunity of getting sloppy but sometimes you just never know. I'm just curious to see how high the serial numbers go for any particular month - sort of a pet project on the side.

That is one theory:

You can just as easily say they make the initial batches with crossed fingers hoping it turns out well till the engineers get feedback and make adjustments that carry through to the later dated mass production numbers. In fact, that's usually how the manufacturing process works. I can name a few cases right off the top of my head including Xbox360 red ring of death and resulting motherboard changes, the PS3 power usage adjustments, the capacitors in several top brand name DvD players from around 2002, the projector lamps from several infocus products... I could go on for a while but you guys get the point.
I would not recommend searching out early models in particular. There are some exceptions such as when a manufacturer changes a spec to save money to one that is lesser but for the most part you are in for the same chances as everyone else to end up with a product that functions well and correct.

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post #1002 of 2602 Old 12-02-2010, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by hmunster2 View Post


Omar, I don't mean to be dense, but basically you can't set gamma without equipment, am I correct? I tried setting the gamma at 0 and using the ambient sensor, but the picture appears too dark in my viewing room (pretty dark, rarely have any lights on). If I shut it off, the picture sometimes is too bright (what would help here-lowering the contrast?).
Thanks again

Please read my post.

To use the ambient light sensor, you need backlight 5, contrast/picture 90, gamma 0, led control to standard. It assumes these presets for starting points, otherwise will be too dark or bright. Read the post, i spent hours on it.

Omar
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post #1003 of 2602 Old 12-03-2010, 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by mplates View Post

Could some one explain the Motion Plus settings. What's the best setting for hockey? Smooth or Clear 1? Are they both 240Hz?

YMMV, but the conventional wisdom for fast-moving sports like hockey is that Smooth, the 240hz setting, would be your best bet. But try it--some love it, some don't.
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post #1004 of 2602 Old 12-03-2010, 04:11 AM
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Hi,

I've thoroughly kept track with the thread to keep up with possible issues, solutions, and calibrations for the HX800. I recently purchased the TV a week back (46" model). Overall, I love the picture quality. There is minor clouding that is only noticeable in extremely dark scenes with moderately bright settings, so that doesn't bother my viewing experience too much.

However, I've been noticing non-uniform backlighting on my HX800, particularly to the far left of the screen. When I'm about within 3 feet distance from the TV, I can notice that the left side is a bit more bluish on the blacks in a dark picture/scene, looking a lot like a stronger backlight. The problem is more apparent at that distance in the dark. Yet, when I'm at a distance of about 7-8 feet, I cannot notice it (unless I put some effort into looking, which is still really hard at that distance).

I understand that LCD/LEDS often have problems with uniform backlighting; but my main question is whether my chances of getting a "more uniform" backlight in an exchange set at the store are high? Preferably, I would also like for a model with no clouding on any brightness, but I think that may be pushing it.

TV Calibrations:
Backlight: 5
Picture: 75
Brightness: 49
Color: 51
Hue: 0
Color Temp: Warm 2
Black Corrector: Low
Adv. Contrast Enh: Low
Gamma: -1
LED Control: Standard
Light Limiter: Off
Clear White: Off
Live Color: Off
Ambient Sensor: Off


Finally, have you guys noticed any clicking both after the TV boots on and off? I'm more prone to hear the clicking 10 minutes or so after it boots off, it'll happen 1-3 times (~10-20 minute interval) before it stops. I'm in quite a cold room, so maybe that has something to do with it?

What do you guys think? Are many sets having these minor problems?
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post #1005 of 2602 Old 12-03-2010, 05:07 AM
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Originally Posted by reut View Post

Hi,

I've thoroughly kept track with the thread to keep up with possible issues, solutions, and calibrations for the HX800. I recently purchased the TV a week back (46" model). Overall, I love the picture quality. There is minor clouding that is only noticeable in extremely dark scenes with moderately bright settings, so that doesn't bother my viewing experience too much.

However, I've been noticing non-uniform backlighting on my HX800, particularly to the far left of the screen. When I'm about within 3 feet distance from the TV, I can notice that the left side is a bit more bluish on the blacks in a dark picture/scene, looking a lot like a stronger backlight. The problem is more apparent at that distance in the dark. Yet, when I'm at a distance of about 7-8 feet, I cannot notice it (unless I put some effort into looking, which is still really hard at that distance).

I understand that LCD/LEDS often have problems with uniform backlighting; but my main question is whether my chances of getting a "more uniform" backlight in an exchange set at the store are high? Preferably, I would also like for a model with no clouding on any brightness, but I think that may be pushing it.

TV Calibrations:
Backlight: 5
Picture: 75
Brightness: 49
Color: 51
Hue: 0
Color Temp: Warm 2
Black Corrector: Low
Adv. Contrast Enh: Low
Gamma: -1
LED Control: Standard
Light Limiter: Off
Clear White: Off
Live Color: Off
Ambient Sensor: Off

Finally, have you guys noticed any clicking both after the TV boots on and off? I'm more prone to hear the clicking 10 minutes or so after it boots off, it'll happen 1-3 times (~10-20 minute interval) before it stops. I'm in quite a cold room, so maybe that has something to do with it?

What do you guys think? Are many sets having these minor problems?

Try turning off the black corrector and adv. Contrast, see if that helps. Your other settings look good. If you've not made any corrections to your white balance, you probably need to stick with brightness of 50.

The clicking is the plastics in the frame cooling and is normal for his set, alas. Everyone wants small and thin these days, and cheap, light materials is the trade off.

Omar
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post #1006 of 2602 Old 12-03-2010, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OmarF View Post

Try turning off the black corrector and adv. Contrast, see if that helps. Your other settings look good. If you've not made any corrections to your white balance, you probably need to stick with brightness of 50.

The clicking is the plastics in the frame cooling and is normal for his set, alas. Everyone wants small and thin these days, and cheap, light materials is the trade off.

Omar

Speaking of heat, I was surprised how little heat mine gives off. It's barely warm to the touch on the back panel after hours of use from my family. The little external wireless box I use for internet gets warmer than the TV which is really strange to me.
I don't notice any clicking with mine.
I also don't notice any clouding other than what you may see from the dynamic LED function. My screen is also uniform in color and doesn't exhibit any signs of flashlighting from anywhere in particular. I have good air flow and volume in my watching area though maybe that's the difference and I keep my temp at 64.

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post #1007 of 2602 Old 12-03-2010, 07:59 AM
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I tried asking Sony support how to activate the simulated 3D and they said that you need the emitter for this to work. That doesn't make any sense, if you aren't using glasses, why would you need the emitter. I have tried hitting the 3D button on the remote, which says that I need an optional emitter and if I use the main menu under Picture preferrences, the 3D selection is unavailable.
So how do you gain access to the simulated 3D function?
Thanks
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post #1008 of 2602 Old 12-03-2010, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OmarF View Post

Try turning off the black corrector and adv. Contrast, see if that helps. Your other settings look good. If you've not made any corrections to your white balance, you probably need to stick with brightness of 50.

The clicking is the plastics in the frame cooling and is normal for his set, alas. Everyone wants small and thin these days, and cheap, light materials is the trade off.

Omar

To me, what Reut is describing is clouding on his set. The only setting that may help lesson the clouding is reducing the backlit setting and engaging local dimming (which is the Dynamic led I believe on the sony. If that doesn't do it, Reut as 2 options.

Return the TV in hope to get one with lesser clouding or live with it.

Clouding, in 2010 is a very big issue. I am suprised by how many customers are willing to live with defectives TV.
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post #1009 of 2602 Old 12-03-2010, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hmunster2 View Post

I tried asking Sony support how to activate the simulated 3D and they said that you need the emitter for this to work. That doesn't make any sense, if you aren't using glasses, why would you need the emitter. I have tried hitting the 3D button on the remote, which says that I need an optional emitter and if I use the main menu under Picture preferrences, the 3D selection is unavailable.
So how do you gain access to the simulated 3D function?
Thanks

Simulated 3D still requires the emitter and glasses to work. It just takes a non 3D image and trys to make it 3D.
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post #1010 of 2602 Old 12-03-2010, 09:57 AM
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Clouding, in 2010 is a very big issue. I am suprised by how many customers are willing to live with defectives TV.

One of the biggest side benefits of the Mura Effect (clouding) debacle during the Sony XBR2 thru XBR6 years was the advice that seem to come up fairly regularly, which was, the first thing anyone should do after getting a new LCD tv home is to run the set in a ideally completely darkened room, get a completely black screen displayed and crank up the backlighting as high as it will go - in order to reveal if your particular panel has uniformity issues that scream take me back to the store and then adjust everything back downward (ideally in methodical steps) and see what happens. Many a cloud will just simply go away at more normal backlight levels. It's sort of funny that doesn't come up much anymore but it's a sure fire way to avoid the noid in the long run, especially if your sensitive to clouding.

There are no perfect LCD active transmissive layers in LCD televisions, just some that came out of the factory better than others - but I would disagree on the 2010 statement; all the manufacturers have made great strides in reducing the effect. Too many complaints stem from improperly setup televisions and/or people not using the provided features that enhance performance thereby mitigating the mura effect. Let's hope recent news from Sony pans out and the new tech makes it into the LCDs before we are too old to give a ****. Do-It-Yourself posted that little bit of news up yesterday on another thread...
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post #1011 of 2602 Old 12-03-2010, 10:55 AM
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The free game offers are irrespective of where you buy the set, assuming it's not a b-stock or something. The movies btw are obtained simply by registering your set on the Sony website. The game info is typically provided in the pouch with the warranty info and what-not. If yours didn't have it you can just as easily call Sony Support and tell them your box was missing the insert; they will give you the necessary code. You use the code to download the games via the Playstation Store. I'm pretty sure I remember the free offer being valid until at least March of 2011.

Hope this helps...

Contacted Best Buy first and talked to the managers there and they would not give me a code. They told me to just contact Sony about it because it is a manufacturer's error.

Contacted Sony for two days. Lots of times the representative did not even know of the existence of the vouchers. They also kept redirecting to other departments within Sony. Finally it boiled down to the Bravia TV department and Playstation department. They both kept redirecting me to each other saying that side will give me the code. Went up to the Corporate level in the Playstation and they told me they can not give me the codes because they can't generate it. They said just go back to Best Buy and return and rebuy the TV.........

Best Buy and Sony's costumer service SUCKS!
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post #1012 of 2602 Old 12-03-2010, 11:08 AM
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I recently found this site and after reading reviews here I picked 46HX800 which gave excellent PQ and black levels for my untrained eyes.
but after hooking in my room I realized I need a bigger one so exchanged to 55HX800.

Here comes my problem, 55" looks good on it's own. but I remember seeing better picture quality on 46". Moreover I feel pictures are not that sharp, especially when I look at fonts, theirs edges don't look like a straight line but with a small blur, also the TV channel logo for HD channels doesn't look that dazzling as I expect.
Same with faces of people, face lines around the eyes and lips doesn't seem to be that clear. Overall I feel 46" was clearer.

I am not sure it's just me seeing more than there is to it, size difference or really some problem. (Could it be HDMI cable issue)

About set up I have my Dish TV and HTPC hooked to Onkyo SR608 receiver and then receiver is connected to TV with HDMI.
BTW, PC desktop through HDMI is also not that good, but looks better through VGA.

Any input from you is highly appreciated.
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post #1013 of 2602 Old 12-03-2010, 11:31 AM
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Contacted Best Buy first and talked to the managers there and they would not give me a code. They told me to just contact Sony about it because it is a manufacturer's error.

Contacted Sony for two days. Lots of times the representative did not even know of the existence of the vouchers. They also kept redirecting to other departments within Sony. Finally it boiled down to the Bravia TV department and Playstation department. They both kept redirecting me to each other saying that side will give me the code. Went up to the Corporate level in the Playstation and they told me they can not give me the codes because they can't generate it. They said just go back to Best Buy and return and rebuy the TV.........

Best Buy and Sony's costumer service SUCKS!

I can see where Best Buy wouldn't be able to help you since it is a mfg's promo offer but for Sony not being able to at least send you the insert that they print in the thousands - that seems odd dare I say lame. Having to return a TV just for the benefit of gaining some free downloads seems like a no brainer if you ask me - don't do it - especially if you scored a set with good overall performance and uniformity; who's knows what you'd get on a return swap - a download voucher and a lesser set? Ain't worth it.
Someone else mentioned it already but the promo was only for 2 full games and 2 small demos. Of all the games, the only one we thoroughly enjoy is Motorstorm which is a blast but unfortunately nowhere near a full game. This is barely even spilled milk kind of stuff...I'd let it go and register for your movies post-haste...but that's just me.
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post #1014 of 2602 Old 12-03-2010, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by amatot

I can see where Best Buy wouldn't be able to help you since it is a mfg's promo offer but for Sony not being able to at least send you the insert that they print in the thousands - that seems odd dare I say lame. Having to return a TV just for the benefit of gaining some free downloads seems like a no brainer if you ask me - don't do it - especially if you scored a set with good overall performance and uniformity; who's knows what you'd get on a return swap - a download voucher and a lesser set? Ain't worth it.
Someone else mentioned it already but the promo was only for 2 full games and 2 small demos. Of all the games, the only one we thoroughly enjoy is Motorstorm which is a blast but unfortunately nowhere near a full game. This is barely even spilled milk kind of stuff...I'd let it go and register for your movies post-haste...but that's just me.
Yeah, and the motorstorm is just a demo really. There is now a more robust 3D motorstorm on the ps store, but you have to pay for it a it is not a part of the promo.
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post #1015 of 2602 Old 12-03-2010, 12:47 PM
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Yeah, and the motorstorm is just a demo really. There is now a more robust 3D motorstorm on the ps store, but you have to pay for it a it is not a part of the promo.
How much are they charging for the full game Spiff?
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post #1016 of 2602 Old 12-03-2010, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by hrzn
I recently found this site and after reading reviews here I picked 46HX800 which gave excellent PQ and black levels for my untrained eyes.
but after hooking in my room I realized I need a bigger one so exchanged to 55HX800.

Here comes my problem, 55" looks good on it's own. but I remember seeing better picture quality on 46". Moreover I feel pictures are not that sharp, especially when I look at fonts, theirs edges don't look like a straight line but with a small blur, also the TV channel logo for HD channels doesn't look that dazzling as I expect.
Same with faces of people, face lines around the eyes and lips doesn't seem to be that clear. Overall I feel 46" was clearer.

I am not sure it's just me seeing more than there is to it, size difference or really some problem. (Could it be HDMI cable issue)

About set up I have my Dish TV and HTPC hooked to Onkyo SR608 receiver and then receiver is connected to TV with HDMI.
BTW, PC desktop through HDMI is also not that good, but looks better through VGA.

Any input from you is highly appreciated.
The same thing happened to me, and I found that my tv was defective and exchanged it for another 55 that had been returned and it was perfect. I had to bring out my test pattern disc and show them what was wrong with it, though. There may be a slight difference in sharpness between the two sizes but it shouldnt be awful. Before returning it, try setting it up right, though, and use blu rays as your benchmark, not tv.

Omar
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post #1017 of 2602 Old 12-03-2010, 01:01 PM
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Thanks. That was me btw. I picked up my set just a few months ago and was shocked I scored one so low. The higher order numbers are usually the series designation, the rest is the serial number, so yours is number 775 which is still pretty low. Mfg process control tends to start off pretty tight with the launch of any a new model series but that doesn't necessarily translate to better quality in all cases. Once they start cranking these out at rates near or in the 10's of thousands per month, things have an opportunity of getting sloppy but sometimes you just never know. I'm just curious to see how high the serial numbers go for any particular month - sort of a pet project on the side.
Returned the TV for the same model. This one does not have the line. A little clouding in spots, but only noticeable on a completely black screen in the dark with the backlight at 5 or more. So far so good. Odd thing is it was the next SN 776-E. Not sure what the E means or if #775 I returned had it. But I really like the tv. Great blacks compared to the NX800 and my old Wega RP.

I was hoping for a later SN, but this one was made in May as well. But it seems, so far, to be a better screen.

I am surprised at how good Verizon FIOS looks. TIVO'ed movies look really really good on this tv.
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post #1018 of 2602 Old 12-03-2010, 01:07 PM
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Just received my 55hx800 today, can't wait to set it up. Where can a calibration disc be bought?
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post #1019 of 2602 Old 12-03-2010, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Winky65 View Post
Returned the TV for the same model. This one does not have the line. A little clouding in spots, but only noticeable on a completely black screen in the dark with the backlight at 5 or more. So far so good. Odd thing is it was the next SN 776-E. Not sure what the E means or if #775 I returned had it. But I really like the tv. Great blacks compared to the NX800 and my old Wega RP.

I was hoping for a later SN, but this one was made in May as well. But it seems, so far, to be a better screen.

I am surprised at how good Verizon FIOS looks. TIVO'ed movies look really really good on this tv.
Glad to hear you got that solved and taken care of quickly.

Where are you seeing the "E" Winky, on the Contact Sony support tab or on the actual sticker?

And btw, are you in the U.S.?
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post #1020 of 2602 Old 12-03-2010, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hrzn View Post
I recently found this site and after reading reviews here I picked 46HX800 which gave excellent PQ and black levels for my untrained eyes.
but after hooking in my room I realized I need a bigger one so exchanged to 55HX800.

Here comes my problem, 55" looks good on it's own. but I remember seeing better picture quality on 46". Moreover I feel pictures are not that sharp, especially when I look at fonts, theirs edges don't look like a straight line but with a small blur, also the TV channel logo for HD channels doesn't look that dazzling as I expect.
Same with faces of people, face lines around the eyes and lips doesn't seem to be that clear. Overall I feel 46" was clearer.

I am not sure it's just me seeing more than there is to it, size difference or really some problem. (Could it be HDMI cable issue)

About set up I have my Dish TV and HTPC hooked to Onkyo SR608 receiver and then receiver is connected to TV with HDMI.
BTW, PC desktop through HDMI is also not that good, but looks better through VGA.

Any input from you is highly appreciated.
Defect in the TV is a possibility but it's to be expected you will notice these more when you go to a bigger TV. The issue is that since the TV is bigger than your previous one, but your seating distance didn't change, you get to see more details now. But with more details, comes more imperfections. These TV are very sensitive when it comes to the source you provide them.

With a smaller screen, you were missing out on some details but you were also missing out on imperfections in the picture. That's partially why you notice more weird artifacts around text and logos.

There might also be, and this part is an asumption of mine, I didn't look it up, that the pixels were smaller/tighter on the 46" which leads to a sharper picture.

How far are you seated from the TV ?
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