Philips 55pfl5505 need some feedback - Page 13 - AVS Forum
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post #361 of 675 Old 12-08-2010, 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by a1095 View Post

I recently purchased a Philips 40PFL5505D/F7 40" LCD. The only real issue I have with this TV is operation of the internal tuner and the Digital coax output. When using the internal tuner in conjunction with the digital audio output, there is a substantial pop noise when changing channels. Once the new channel is acquired, the audio is fine. When using the internal tuner with the built in speaker system, the inter-station tuning is normal and noise free.
When using the digital coax output, I use a Gefen GTV-DD-2-AA to convert the 5.1 Dolby signal to 2 Channel stereo to drive my stereo amp. and speakers. I can duplicate the pop sound by simply un-plugging the coax cable from the Gefen input. This leads me to believe that the digital output signal is dropping out in between stations until the next channel is acquired. I have been in contact with Gefen and Philips support and they have no solution. Neither will admit there is an issue with their product. I found dealing with Philips Support especially frustrating. I have also upgraded the firmware on the Philips to the latest (PHL-0AA_119_0). My instinct tells me there is an issue with the digital analog port (defective or poor design) or the Gefen cannot mute the signal dropout between stations. I'm a little reluctant to spend more money on a more expensive digital converter (Processor) without really knowing what is going on here! I was really hoping the Gefen would provide the simple solution to converting the tuner digital audio to a usable analog output.
I have tested the Gefen with my 2 DVD players and it seems to function normally. Frustrated!

This is a followup that finally ended well. For those who want to use the new Philips 40" with a standard stereo and don't have dolby digital converter, the Gefen product is definitely NOT the answer. A weak design that is not capable of muting it's output in between the channel changes and the resulting digital signal level variances. I'm using an old Technics SH-AC500D digital Dolby processor with the optical output. Works flawlessly! I think any cheap used receiver with a digital input (Dolby 5.1 capable) would do the job.
It just irritated me that Gefen's customer support seemed incapable of accepting that this flaw even exists. I still wish they would include a stereo analog (RCA jacks) output for us old folks!
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post #362 of 675 Old 12-09-2010, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by maverickrohan View Post
The latest version should be online by the end of this week. Yes, you should upgrade. There are numerous fixes & improvements.
Thanks for the info, really appreciate it! Updated to 314 last nite, no issues after installation.
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post #363 of 675 Old 12-09-2010, 06:47 AM
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The latest f/w for the 7505 is PHL-0CA_323_0.upg

It will be online by EOW. You can update to it when it is available.

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post #364 of 675 Old 12-09-2010, 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by maverickrohan View Post
If you don't like the colors popping, try turning off Dynamic contrast, Color Enhancement, etc.

If you real want to fine tune the white balance ... I can PM you how to adjust the RGB drives and cut offs in the Service Menu ... lemme know if you wanna do that ...

You will need a good calibration disc and lots of time and patience to fine tune the settings though.
I agree as I originally thought my TV had too much pop or 3-D look to it. It took me a while to adjust the settings to where I like them. I also noticed, at least with satellite HDTV, that channels broadcast differently as well, and that affects color and contrast greatly. For example, Discovery HD pops off the screen, while CNN HD seems a bit flatter. So I know to watch 1 channel in Personal Mode, and another in Movie Mode. I found the contrast and brightness need to both be adjusted, as the brightness controls what I relate to as midtones and highlights, while contrast affects the "pop" and blacks. You just need to find that middle ground with the settings. Coming from a older flat screen CRT to the 7505 was a huge step up, as it did take some getting accustomed to the overall sharpness and nearly 3-D look of images onscreen.
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post #365 of 675 Old 12-09-2010, 08:26 AM
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Maverick,

I ended up going with the Sony CT 350 Soundbar, because the deal was just too good to pass up. It has 3 HDMI ins, to which I connected my Cable box, PS3 and Xbox. I used the 1 HDMI out to connect it to the old tv I had, which also has my Wii connected to it as well via component. I have 2 optical cables running to the surround bar 1 from the tv for the Wii to get sound and 1 from the cable box.

Long story short, I had planned to simply undo my current tv, leave the 1 HDMI hanging there, along with the component and optical cable, hang the new Philips and reconnect those cables.

Would it make more sense to simply connect everything to the Philips and run just the 1 HDMI out to the Soundbar? Or is it six of one and half dozen of another?

Thanks!
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post #366 of 675 Old 12-09-2010, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maverickrohan View Post


If you don't like the colors popping, try turning off Dynamic contrast, Color Enhancement, etc.

If you real want to fine tune the white balance ... I can PM you how to adjust the RGB drives and cut offs in the Service Menu ... lemme know if you wanna do that ...

You will need a good calibration disc and lots of time and patience to fine tune the settings though.

Hi Mav...

I have all of the processing, including motion, turned off. Should have mentioned that.

I'd like to see some recommended settings as a starting point, but would like to be able to adjust colours independently.

I'm used to my old Sharp Aquos with tons of different colour adjustments.

How do you PM? I'm new to this forum.

Thanks for all the help.
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post #367 of 675 Old 12-09-2010, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n0s4atu View Post

Maverick,

I ended up going with the Sony CT 350 Soundbar, because the deal was just too good to pass up. It has 3 HDMI ins, to which I connected my Cable box, PS3 and Xbox. I used the 1 HDMI out to connect it to the old tv I had, which also has my Wii connected to it as well via component. I have 2 optical cables running to the surround bar 1 from the tv for the Wii to get sound and 1 from the cable box.

Long story short, I had planned to simply undo my current tv, leave the 1 HDMI hanging there, along with the component and optical cable, hang the new Philips and reconnect those cables.

Would it make more sense to simply connect everything to the Philips and run just the 1 HDMI out to the Soundbar? Or is it six of one and half dozen of another?

Thanks!


Leave it the way you previously had it ... all HDMIs going to the SoundBar ... one HDMI from SB to TV ... for component/composite connections to the TV ... use a digital coax (RCA) cable from S/PDIF out on TV to SoundBar to get audio from those devices to the soundbar.

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post #368 of 675 Old 12-09-2010, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by livininvic View Post

Hi Mav...

I have all of the processing, including motion, turned off. Should have mentioned that.

I'd like to see some recommended settings as a starting point, but would like to be able to adjust colours independently.

I'm used to my old Sharp Aquos with tons of different colour adjustments.

How do you PM? I'm new to this forum.

Thanks for all the help.

A PM is a Personal Message (just like email) ... the point being ... only you can read what I have sent u

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post #369 of 675 Old 12-09-2010, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maverickrohan View Post


A PM is a Personal Message (just like email) ... the point being ... only you can read what I have sent u

Ahh I thought it was a chat window, because I'm on and off all the time, didn't think that would work.

If you can PM me this adjustment info that would be great! Any other tips and tricks you can think of are welcome.
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post #370 of 675 Old 12-10-2010, 07:47 AM
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Ok, here's an odd issue and I'm not sure it's a setting in the TV, but figured I'd throw it out there:

My cable box is a Motorola DCX 3400. I have it set to do 1080i and it's hooked up to my Sony CT350 via HDMI.

Every time I turn off the TV and then turn it back on it reverts to 480p? I've adjusted the settings in the box itself, but without fail every time I turn off the tv those get changed back. This happens whether or not I keep the cable box on or turn it off.

I'm guessing I've simply got a setting in the TV turned on or off and a "handshake" isn't being made, etc?

Any thoughts?

As for the TV itself:
I've had to turn off a lot of the bells and whistles (I'll look up specifically what features later), because they almost made the picture too good if that makes any sense?

The tv takes way more adjusting than my previous piece of junk, but as I get it more dialed in, the picture really is impressive. I too was having a problem with reds, etc. Specifically skin tones, lips, etc were appearing very red, so I've been playing with it to get these dialed in. This could also be the channels, because I had to do no such thing when playing a DVD and the colors were fantastic.

Also, as far as upgrading the firmware goes, my 55PFL5705DV/F7 is wirelessly connected to the internet, so would I still have to use a USB stick to upgrade? I haven't gotten through the entire manual yet, as the cable box issue is driving me nuts. lol

Thanks!
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post #371 of 675 Old 12-10-2010, 07:47 AM
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Hi Everyone, newbie here.

I've been fighting the urge to buy an LCD tv for far too long and I'm finally ready to cave with all the deals that can be had lately. After reading most of this thread I'm starting to consider the 40PFL5505 since it is currently on sale for $549.

Does anyone have any experience as to how this tv compares to the Sony KDL40EX500 or the Samsung LN40C630 which are around $100 more with similar specs? I can't find a store that has these on display in order to compare.

Thanks!
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post #372 of 675 Old 12-10-2010, 08:08 AM
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Maverickrohan, can you or anyone else provide the best recommended picture settings for both Xbox 360/PS3s connected via HDMI?

I've been reading through this thread for a few days but there's no 'optimal' settings for console gaming via HDMI.

I've had the 40PFL5505 for a few weeks, and most games are not as sharp as I expected/seen elsewhere and colors are off.

I'm currently using the following settings (provided by another user in this thread) but it's not catered to console gaming via HDMI:

Contrast 77
Brightness 46
Color 46
Tint 3
Sharpness 5
Color temp normal
Dynamic contrast on
DNM off for everything but movies
Noise reduction off
Mpeg red on
Color enhancement off
Active control off
Picture format unscaled

Gracias!
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post #373 of 675 Old 12-10-2010, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n0s4atu View Post

Ok, here's an odd issue and I'm not sure it's a setting in the TV, but figured I'd throw it out there:

My cable box is a Motorola DCX 3400. I have it set to do 1080i and it's hooked up to my Sony CT350 via HDMI.

Every time I turn off the TV and then turn it back on it reverts to 480p? I've adjusted the settings in the box itself, but without fail every time I turn off the tv those get changed back. This happens whether or not I keep the cable box on or turn it off.

I'm guessing I've simply got a setting in the TV turned on or off and a "handshake" isn't being made, etc?

Any thoughts?

As for the TV itself:
I've had to turn off a lot of the bells and whistles (I'll look up specifically what features later), because they almost made the picture too good if that makes any sense?

The tv takes way more adjusting than my previous piece of junk, but as I get it more dialed in, the picture really is impressive. I too was having a problem with reds, etc. Specifically skin tones, lips, etc were appearing very red, so I've been playing with it to get these dialed in. This could also be the channels, because I had to do no such thing when playing a DVD and the colors were fantastic.

Also, as far as upgrading the firmware goes, my 55PFL5705DV/F7 is wirelessly connected to the internet, so would I still have to use a USB stick to upgrade? I haven't gotten through the entire manual yet, as the cable box issue is driving me nuts. lol

Thanks!

About your Motorola Box resolution issue:
Please let me know if you ever fix it, I have come across that issue a handful of times before along with the green screen issue. There was nothing we tried with the settings that ever fixed it.

We even engaged Motorola & Comcast so that we could work together to find a solution but they were totally useless and never took it seriously. We have reported it to our engineers are well. They told us the HDMI implementation in the TV met specifications and the TV does not really have a say in what resolution the connected device wants to output at. The TVs EDID information exchanged during the HDMI handshake clearly has all the resolutions the TV supports. If the issue was with the TVs EDID info, all other devices would also output at 480p. This issue is very common among Motorola boxes and it happens with multiple TV brands. Weird thing is, it does not happen with all TVs which causes some people to think the TV is at fault. But it really isn't.

Also, if it is an HD box, it should show HD channels in their native resolutions, 720p, 1080i etc. It might be reverting back to 480p only for SD channels. IMHO ... let the TV scale the 480p to 1080p. There is no real need to make the box upscale.

If you ever talk to Motorola or Comcast about the issue, tell them P&F USA is ready to work with them to solve it even though it is not really our issue.

Firmware:
The latest firmware, PHL-0DA_710_0.upg, is available for upgrade via "Network Upgrade" in the TV menu. Simply connect the TV to the internet and do a "Network Upgrade"; you do not need a USB stick.
Let me know if it worked for you?

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post #374 of 675 Old 12-10-2010, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damchini View Post

Maverickrohan, can you or anyone else provide the best recommended picture settings for both Xbox 360/PS3s connected via HDMI?

I've been reading through this thread for a few days but there's no 'optimal' settings for console gaming via HDMI.

I've had the 40PFL5505 for a few weeks, and most games are not as sharp as I expected/seen elsewhere and colors are off.

I'm currently using the following settings (provided by another user in this thread) but it's not catered to console gaming via HDMI:

Contrast 77
Brightness 46
Color 46
Tint 3
Sharpness 5
Color temp normal
Dynamic contrast on
DNM off for everything but movies
Noise reduction off
Mpeg red on
Color enhancement off
Active control off or try on based on video signal
Picture format unscaled

Gracias!

Contrast 88
Brightness 50
Color 50
Tint 0
Sharpness 0
Color temp normal
Dynamic contrast on
DNM off for everything but movies
Noise reduction off
Mpeg red off
Color enhancement on
Active control off or try on based on video signal
Picture format unscaled

Try that?

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post #375 of 675 Old 12-10-2010, 02:21 PM
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Yeah I saw in a quick search before I posted that it wasn't just me getting the problem, nor was it specific to any one brand, I just wasn't sure if changing something in the setup menu would fix it.

I think tonight I will try connecting everything to the Philips with only an HDMI out to the Soundbar. I'll post back with results. It's ridiculous that Motorola doesn't have a setting in that box to simply turn off any type of handshaking with other electronics.

Other than that, annoyance I'm really enjoying the tv.

Edit: In the Menu settings for the Motorola box, it shows which resolutions your tv is capable of I think. 1080, 720, 480, etc Is there a way on the tv itself to make it so it only shows 1080? Perhaps that would circumvent the problem?
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post #376 of 675 Old 12-10-2010, 03:17 PM
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Ok, after some experimenting this is what I've come up with:

1) I leave my cable box on all the time.

2) In order to keep the 1080i setting on the cable box I must turn off the soundbar 1st. Then turn off the TV.

3) Turn on the tv first and wait until it comes on with "no signal" at that point turn on the Soundbar.

That keeps the settings and that is so far the only way I've found to hold them. When doing it in any other order, 2 "handshakes" occur and the second resets everything back to 480.

The TV takes a fair amount of time to "boot up", about 20 or so seconds, so hopefully when I get my Harmony One, I can set the "Watch TV" to account for the boot time, before attempting to turn on the Soundbar. Doing it early causes the double handshake.

I have a feeling this is all because I am running everything through the soundbar and likely wouldn't be an issue if everything was set up through the tv, so as soon as I get back from Best Buy with a RCA Coax cable I may try switching everything around to see if that is indeed the case.

Oh I also updated the firmware through the network which was really cool. I really like having the VuDu, etc all through the tv. And at the time there was no difference in price, so I'm glad I went ahead and did that. Plus Best Buy just credited me back $150 since the tv is now on sale.

Now that I've figured that out I can sit, relax and study the giant owner's manual and really get a feel for the tv.
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post #377 of 675 Old 12-10-2010, 10:34 PM
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Well, its just over a day into owning the TV and now there are two tiny pixels are out in it and they appear green when the screen is black. So when I get up, looks like I'm going to have to call Best Buy and see how to return it.
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post #378 of 675 Old 12-11-2010, 12:05 AM
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First of all ... thanks for all the feedback.

Kinda sux that it has stuck pixels, sorry about that. You might want to try this first before you return/exchange it:

http://www.jscreenfix.com/basic.php

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post #379 of 675 Old 12-11-2010, 04:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maverickrohan View Post

First of all ... thanks for all the feedback.

Kinda sux that it has stuck pixels, sorry about that. You might want to try this first before you return/exchange it:

http://www.jscreenfix.com/basic.php

How would I launch that on the tv? Download it and use the USB slot?

I really like all the features this tv has to offer, so when I say return it I suppose exchange would be better. I'm going to assume this is some freak occurence and that a different one wouldn't have the issue. Only I would have my tv delivered on a truck that breaks down and comes 4 hours past when it was supposed to, then have a brand new cable box that doesn't work properly (1080 problem wasn't the only one, my HD pay channels, like HBO, etc werent' coming through and the lady at comcast, simply disconnected all my channels as the fix until a supervisor could call me. lol Gee thanks.)

The pixels aren't actually noticeable from the couch, but I happened to be up close to the tv when Comcast was messing with the connection and noticed them. I'm hoping Best Buy's solution will be to take this one, when the replacement is delivered. I don't want to go back to a smaller tv again. lol
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post #380 of 675 Old 12-11-2010, 07:45 AM
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I think hooking it up to your computer using the VGA-in would be the best way to run that on your TV. Stuck pixels are a common occurence in TV manufacturing. Everybody wants a TV with a huge number of pixels, yet they do not want to pay an extravagant amount; thus, these companies "cheap out" during production. In this case, the culprit is Samsung, but it is true for virtually all television makers. In some cases, they do not even guarantee a defect-free screen. Some allow for a dead pixel, some allow up to two dead/stuck pixels on an LCD, others may be even higher than that. It's sad, really.
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post #381 of 675 Old 12-11-2010, 09:26 AM
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@nos

Try the solution I mentioned, you just need to hook a computer to your TV using VGA / HDMI ... if it does not work, get it exchanged from Best Buy.

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post #382 of 675 Old 12-11-2010, 06:23 PM
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I have been shopping for a HDTV for the last few weeks. Read all kinds of info on them. Trying to get up to speed. While looking at the TV's at Sam's again, I came across a Philips 40PFL7505D/F7. It was looping a Blu-Ray Trailer of Toy Story 3, and it looked awesome! Now, it could be that it was just because I'm not use to Blu-Ray, but it looked better then most of the TV's there and the price was nice. So, I went home and started looking into Philips. Philips seems to be the TV that is over looked by most reviewers, and users have been giving it 5 stars. That made me even more interested.

Then I came across this thread, and I finished reading the whole thread. I'm very interested in this TV. But I have a few questions that didn't seem to be asked, and maybe you could answer them for me.

I have never owned a HDTV. I haven't watched TV in 3 years. I watch all my video on my computer. I don't plan on using the TV Tuner. I just want a big screen for my computer

1. How good does the 40PFL5505D/F7 HDTV look as a computer monitor. Are there any draw backs to using it as a monitor. Like text, or motion, or lag, or blur, etc? Was told by a sales person the LED works better for computers then LCD HDTV's. Is this true or false?

2. Should I use HDMI or PC Input. Is there a PQ difference?

3. I'm thinking of getting the Onkyo TX-SR608 for the HDMI 1080p video upconversion by Faroudja DCDi cinema. Would this be a big help for PQ from a PC to HDTV setup.

4. I'm very new to HDTV's, don't know anyone that owns one. But from reading this forum there seem to be alot of adjustments needed to get the picture right. Does the TV not have presetting to chose for like the avg user, and do all LCD HDTV's have the same problem, and you have to really fine tune the picture to get it right.

The question about a PC to HDTV is never really answered on the net. The answers are like, yeah, you can hook up you computer to your HDTV, but you don't heard how good it is, is it as good as a LCD computer monitor, and if not, why not?

What I do on my computer is usually in AVI, MPG, MKV, pretty much any kind of video file. From standard, to HD, to Blu-Ray rips. Plus of course surfing the web, youtube, and playing computer games. Just using my sound card and computer speakers for sound like usual, and if PQ is going to be a issue like this, maybe the Onkyo TX-SR608 could help it look right.

Sorry, I wrote so much and might have repeated myself. But you get the general idea what I'm asking, or do you have any recommendations for me to do what I'm looking for.

Thanks for the help.
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post #383 of 675 Old 12-11-2010, 06:37 PM
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Ok, and update from me.

Called Best Buy and they've already put in the order for a new one of these guys. I did have the option to simply return it or exchange it for another unit, without a restocking fee, but I really do like this set and think that once I have it dialed in it will be excellent. Until the new one comes I can play with this one and I'll just write down all my settings before I swap them out.

More questions:

1) I have the RCA coax cable coming on Monday to help the Wii sound get to the Soundbar instead of the speakers, but in playing with the VuDu, when I went to watch a free preview, the soundbar cut out and the TV speakers took over. Can I assume that with the RCA coax this won't happen?

2) My greens are popping a bit much, is there specific type of adjustment to work with the greens? Specifically I randomly turned on the TV today and golf was on. I never watch it, but once it was on I wanted to see if the ball streaked, or if there was any motion blur. Nope, none. Great. Then I noticed the green looked perfect and sharp, but the fairway/rough was a very bright green that didn'nt look natural. Suggestions?

Thanks for all the help getting this thing dialed in!
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post #384 of 675 Old 12-11-2010, 11:50 PM
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@iceblast:
Welcome to the forum ...


1. How good does the 40PFL5505D/F7 HDTV look as a computer monitor. Are there any draw backs to using it as a monitor. Like text, or motion, or lag, or blur, etc? Was told by a sales person the LED works better for computers then LCD HDTV's. Is this true or false?

I use it as a computer monitor 99% of the time ... I watch Hulu Plus, AVIs, MKVs, etc. It works really well ... use the Logitech diNovo mini with it.
Text - Looks Great
Motion - I actually prefer DNM @ MAX most of the time since I am very used to it now ... and I own the Onkyo TX-SR608. If you have read the thread you must have read that DNM uses interpolation which leads to a lag time of 200 msec. The Onkyo has an option to delay audio, so I have set a 200 msec. delay for my PC input.
LED vs. CCFL for a comp monitor - I have no clue why the salesperson told you LED was better cos they are just two different kinds of back-lights. They have nothing to do with the panel itself, which is the same LCD panel.

2. Should I use HDMI or PC Input. Is there a PQ difference?

Use HDMI, that is what I use ... that way you can bitstream Dolby & DTS directly to your Onkyo from your PC. You need to enable that option in ffdshow Audio decoder ... bitstream is off by default.

3. I'm thinking of getting the Onkyo TX-SR608 for the HDMI 1080p video upconversion by Faroudja DCDi cinema. Would this be a big help for PQ from a PC to HDTV setup.

No it would not ... cos it only works if the input to the Onkyo is a low resolution. If you connect PC -> AVR -> TV ... The PC will be set at 1920x1080 ... so it will always be the PC doing the upscaling ... Use K-Lite Mega Codec pack which will give u ffdshow & MPC-HC ... use the postprocessing features in ffdshow to upscale low res video. MPC-HC has different upscaling interpolation algos u can choose from ... bilinear, bicubic variants ... bicubic is the best.

For content which is native 1080p ... dont use any post processing ... i.e. use pure DXVA.

4. I'm very new to HDTV's, don't know anyone that owns one. But from reading this forum there seem to be alot of adjustments needed to get the picture right. Does the TV not have presetting to chose for like the avg user, and do all LCD HDTV's have the same problem, and you have to really fine tune the picture to get it right.

There are many presets already present. But most people who use forums like AVS ... are the kind of people who want to dial in stuff and keep doing it. It is actually something they pride themselves in doing and enjoy it ... If you dont ... just use the presets or create or own settings once and for all and leave it. The issue is that most people dont realize the content is very different. Cameras, lighting, filters, post processing, etc. make diff videos look different. Which makes them want to keep changing their settings.

Other suggestions:
Enable EasyLink (HDMI-CEC) in the TV & AVR ... that way everything will be synced.

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post #385 of 675 Old 12-12-2010, 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by n0s4atu View Post
Ok, and update from me.

Called Best Buy and they've already put in the order for a new one of these guys. I did have the option to simply return it or exchange it for another unit, without a restocking fee, but I really do like this set and think that once I have it dialed in it will be excellent. Until the new one comes I can play with this one and I'll just write down all my settings before I swap them out.

More questions:

1) I have the RCA coax cable coming on Monday to help the Wii sound get to the Soundbar instead of the speakers, but in playing with the VuDu, when I went to watch a free preview, the soundbar cut out and the TV speakers took over. Can I assume that with the RCA coax this won't happen?

2) My greens are popping a bit much, is there specific type of adjustment to work with the greens? Specifically I randomly turned on the TV today and golf was on. I never watch it, but once it was on I wanted to see if the ball streaked, or if there was any motion blur. Nope, none. Great. Then I noticed the green looked perfect and sharp, but the fairway/rough was a very bright green that didn'nt look natural. Suggestions?

Thanks for all the help getting this thing dialed in!

1. I have my TV hooked up to my Onkyo TX-SR608 using S/PDIF (RCA Coax Cable) I just watched the Inception HDX preview i.e. 1080p w/ Dolby Digital. It played just fine and the sound was 5.1 DD.

You must set your TV Speakers to Speakers EasyLink and enable HDMI-CEC in both the TV & your soundbar.

So are you telling me that you haven't yet connected the TV to the soundbar using a coax cable yet. Then obviously the sound will be reproduced using the TV speakers.

2. To be honest ... none really ... ... maybe the grass was that way ...

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post #386 of 675 Old 12-12-2010, 08:20 AM
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Yes, RCA Coax was the one cable I didn't have on hand and ready to go, I had plenty of HDMIs and Toslink optical cables, but tomorrow my RCA cable will arrive, I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything.

Ok, leaving out the bad pixel and chalking that up to simply a lottery, where I lost:

I really have to say I'm enjoying this tv. In fact I'm enjoying it so much, that the bad pixel, really hasn't dampened my mood, especially since Best Buy said to not even try to fix it, they'd take care of it. It does require some dialing in for the picture (and I think I'm almost there), but once you get there (or in my case, very, very close), the picture is truly impressive. We watched the UFC PPV last night and it really looked great in HD, better than on my previous rather average 32" LCD tv.

I actually really like the VuDu feature and will likely use that. The streaming of Netflix is also a very nice feature, but so far to my knowledge they don't stream in HD (VuDu does) and this screen is so big and so sharp, I just don't feel right not having the best, sharpest picture available to take advantage of that.

The Media Connect feature is one I really want to play with next, but I have yet to figure out why after downloading the software to my PC and launching it, it searches for a TV, but never finds the Philips. As I have the tv connected to my wireless network (can't stream VuDu, Netflix, etc without that), I'm guessing I'm missing something on the PC side.

The only negatives I'm able to come up with so far (and they're pretty inconsequential, but I figured I'd better list even minor stuff):

1) Boot up time. From the time you press the power button, to when it goes into standby, ready to recieve the Surround Sound, is literally about 30 seconds. Considering all the tv does it's hardly a big deal.

2) Picture Settings. It would be nice if right out of the box, you had a perfect picture, but at least for cable this isn't the case and it requires little tweaks here and there. Once you get it there the picture is excellent. So plan on setting aside some time to really get it dialed in properly.

There you have it. Oh and due to the pixel issue, Best Buy gave me the opportunity to exchange it and select another tv without hitting me with their restocking fee, but I chose to stick with the Philps, because I'm convinced for the money $1150, the 55PFL5705DV/F7, was the absolute best choice for me and worth every single penny.
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post #387 of 675 Old 12-12-2010, 09:20 AM
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Thanks for the info nos.

About the boot up time. That is something manufacturers cannot really do much about. The government wants us to be Energy Star complainant and every year they have more demanding compliance specifications.

As you know, the TV is almost like a computer, it has a chipset, a PQ chipset, ROM, RAM, etc. Energy Star stand-buy power requirements are so low that the TV literrally has to do a complete boot up cycle just like a PC.

That is why it takes 15 to 30 seconds to boot up.

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post #388 of 675 Old 12-12-2010, 11:07 AM
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Thanks for answering my questions.

I have one more though.

I can't afford the Onkyo at the moment, and doesn't sound like it's going to benefit me much anyhow. How good does the PC input work on the 40PFL5505D/F7. Is the PQ equal to HDMI? Or do I need HDMI to get truly the best PQ. I have Logitech x-530 5.1 speaker system hooked up to my computer. The sound is great, I just need the bigger screen. Really happy to hear how good the TV is as a computer monitor. Wish more people would comment on how good a computer looks on a HDTV.

Thanks for the help.
Ice

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post #389 of 675 Old 12-12-2010, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iceblast View Post

Thanks for answering my questions.

I have one more though.

I can't afford the Onkyo at the moment, and doesn't sound like it's going to benefit me much anyhow. How good does the PC input work on the 40PFL5505D/F7. Is the PQ equal to HDMI? Or do I need HDMI to get truly the best PQ. I have Logitech x-530 5.1 speaker system hooked up to my computer. The sound is great, I just need the bigger screen. Really happy to hear how good the TV is as a computer monitor. Wish more people would comment on how good a computer looks on a HDTV.

Thanks for the help.
Ice

The VGA input works as well as the HDMI input. I used to use it before I got my new laptop with HDMI.

About the Onkyo TX-SR608 ... if you ever reach a point where it is within your reach, try and get it with a speaker bundle, you get more value for your money.

http://www.circuitcity.com/applicati...&searchbtn.y=0

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post #390 of 675 Old 12-12-2010, 02:09 PM
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Maverick,

Ok, I must just be missing it on the tv, but the instructions for the Media Connect say, "Connect your TV to your network and make sure that Digital Media Renderer is switched on."

Where is the option for the Digital Media Renderer? I must have missed that somewhere.

Thanks again.
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