Official LG XXLD450 Thread - Page 22 - AVS Forum
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post #631 of 1549 Old 12-26-2010, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Morphayne View Post

Hey guys. I' looking at the LG 37LD450 as a boxing-day purchase. I just have one question. I plan on using the TV as my media-hub. I'm going to have an Xbox 360 and a PS3 hooked up via HDMI. Will I be able to output 5.1 DD surround sound from the TV's digital audio output to my sound system?

Thanks in advance.

Nope. It will just put out a stereo signal. I have tried it.

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post #632 of 1549 Old 12-26-2010, 06:47 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jangaboo View Post

there's no official xxld350 thread so i decided to post here

i bought my mom a LG 32ld350 and set it up for her...few surprises with this set
  • LG Panel, back grill confirms this as does W on box (cccW)
  • super macro picture shows the pixels to be differently shaped than S-IPS
  • no smearing or ghosting like VA panels and touching screen does not leave smear like VA panels
  • enabling DIVX XVID MKV works on this set but password was 0413 instead of 0000
  • additional picture mode Natural Picture (was removed on all Q1-Q3 LG sets and now back in)
  • picture seems a tiny bit more pixelated than my 42ld450 probably because pixel formation isn't as tight as Super IPS but text and everything is still very easy to read

I bought a 26LD350 and it had the "W" in the label code. It also had the horizontal pixels just as your 32". I guess the "W" doesn't necessarily mean S-IPS as in larger screen models.I thought maybe horizontal IPS also, since off angle was good and black level pretty good too. I had to take it back, though, because the LCD panel lighting uniformity was not good. It had a brighter semi circular area on the bottom edge and one corner of the screen. The screen also had a lot of overall light leakage when the screen "blacked" out or in very dark scenes. Believe it or not, I bought a 26" Sanyo that uses the same LCD panel and inverter board as the 26" LG for $100 less with no light issues. It doesn't have all the adjustments that the LG had, but still a better overall picture with no back light issues. I was disappointed because I have a 42LD550 and it is great in all respects.
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post #633 of 1549 Old 12-26-2010, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post

I bought a 26LD350 and it had the "W" in the label code. It also had the horizontal pixels just as your 32". I guess the "W" doesn't necessarily mean S-IPS as in larger screen models.I thought maybe horizontal IPS also, since off angle was good and black level pretty good too. I had to take it back, though, because the LCD panel lighting uniformity was not good. It had a brighter semi circular area on the bottom edge and one corner of the screen. The screen also had a lot of overall light leakage when the screen "blacked" out or in very dark scenes. Believe it or not, I bought a 26" Sanyo that uses the same LCD panel and inverter board as the 26" LG for $100 less with no light issues. It doesn't have all the adjustments that the LG had, but still a better overall picture with no back light issues. I was disappointed because I have a 42LD550 and it is great in all respects.

the place i work at has 32" Sanyos and they are very nice
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post #634 of 1549 Old 12-26-2010, 07:42 PM
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Yours appears to be an IPS-Pro, which should have better blacks (contrast) than S-IPS.

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post #635 of 1549 Old 12-26-2010, 08:57 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by applebook View Post

Yours appears to be an IPS-Pro, which should have better blacks (contrast) than S-IPS.

Actually it is H-IPS according to the pictures in this link:

http://www.avforums.com/forums/lcd-l...l#post10716984
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post #636 of 1549 Old 12-27-2010, 12:44 PM
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TPC - you asked if I checked into the "too yellow" issue. I did not. To me, if you don't calibrate to standards (which I don't), then color balance becomes somewhat subjective and is very similar to EQ'ing your music (adding bass/treble). Most users just end up staying with what looks good to them subjectively.

I do like neutral whites, so I try to use calibration disc once in a while to check the white balance. I also try to set contrast/brightness "correctly", but I hate loss of shadow detail, so I favor higher black levels over deep blacks that kill darker details...

Anyway, what I saw of my photos on the Sony and LG were very similar. The LG has more sophisticated picture adjustments, but my decision came down to cost and other smaller distinctions. I did like the way the LG IPS pixels were tighter (more densely packed), but that only mattered viewing from very close. The bonus of getting a "great" huge PC monitor also was somewhat appealing.

Mine is on it's way - I hope it's the "W" and arrives in good shape. (I hope it doesn't end up in a Fed-Ex truck that slides off a snowy eastern US road!)

How DARE you question my ignorance!?!
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post #637 of 1549 Old 12-27-2010, 03:13 PM
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I JUST got my 32LD450 through Amazon. Can someone help me find out if its an IPS panel?
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post #638 of 1549 Old 12-27-2010, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HostileSausage View Post

I JUST got my 32LD450 through Amazon. Can someone help me find out if its an IPS panel?

Hi. It's already been discussed at great length in this thread, but I'll link you to a short thread where someone else was asking the same question and I gave them a summary: link
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post #639 of 1549 Old 12-27-2010, 06:47 PM
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Thanks for your reply Angry Lion. I guess I did get an IPS panel since my Product Code is VA.CUSWLHO. I hope the input lag is as low as some people say it is
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post #640 of 1549 Old 12-27-2010, 06:57 PM
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BTW should I use these settings even if I'm only going to use it to play games through my Xbox and not my PC?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post19384504
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post #641 of 1549 Old 12-27-2010, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HostileSausage View Post

Thanks for your reply Angry Lion. I guess I did get an IPS panel since my Product Code is VA.CUSWLHO. I hope the input lag is as low as some people say it is

You're very welcome. My set is the 37" model, and my panel is an AU Optronics A-MVA one, and when playing PS2 games (through component, though that really doesn't matter), I don't notice any input lag at all for what it's worth. I get a little bit of motion blur during fast moving scenes with very drab or grey colours, but that's different than input lag. But yeah, I don't notice input lag at all. I keep the TV's video options set to "game mode" (custom) for game playing, which probably helps. I don't use the "AV Mode" button/option at all (don't like having my audio options stuck in a certain mode), but just set the video options separately in the TV's picture settings for that input.


Quote:
Originally Posted by HostileSausage View Post

BTW should I use these settings even if I'm only going to use it to play games through my Xbox and not my PC?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post19384504

I can't remember for sure, but I think those settings are for a panel that had a "D" as the 4th letter in the TV's product code (like my set), so they might not be ideal for the IPS version of this TV. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

[EDIT]: My answer to your last question is wrong. See 2 posts down. Strange it wouldn't allow me to add this edit a few moments ago (which is why I did up a whole new post just to correct myself).
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post #642 of 1549 Old 12-28-2010, 05:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HostileSausage View Post
BTW should I use these settings even if I'm only going to use it to play games through my Xbox and not my PC?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post19384504
i'm no longer using expert modes, i'm using game mode until someone with IPS panel posts their calibration settings

Xbox 360 component reference level standard hdmi try standard or expanded see which you prefer

Picture Mode = Game
Backlight = 80
Contrast = 90
Brightness = 55-63
Sharpness = 55
color = 70-94 for video games, 50-60 for movies
tint = 0
color temperature = medium or centered
dynamic contrast = off
dynamic color = off
skin color = -3 (negative gives skin more pink red tones positive is yellow)
noise reductions = off
Gamma = low
Black level = low
eye care = off
color gamut = wide
edge enhancement = off
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post #643 of 1549 Old 12-28-2010, 11:38 AM
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@ HostileSausage: Whoops. Ignore my answer to your last question where I said those settings weren't for an IPS panel. I didn't read the actual post you linked to with those settings. The guy there actually does say that he has an IPS panel. I got confused because the table layout used looked a lot like the table layout used by another person, pbc, who has something other than an IPS panel, and so I thought they were pbc's settings.
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post #644 of 1549 Old 12-28-2010, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jangaboo View Post

i'm no longer using expert modes, i'm using game mode until someone with IPS panel posts their calibration settings

Xbox 360 component reference level standard hdmi try standard or expanded see which you prefer

Picture Mode = Game
Backlight = 80
Contrast = 90
Brightness = 55-63
Sharpness = 55
color = 70-94 for video games, 50-60 for movies
tint = 0
color temperature = medium or centered
dynamic contrast = off
dynamic color = off
skin color = -3 (negative gives skin more pink red tones positive is yellow)
noise reductions = off
Gamma = low
Black level = low
eye care = off
color gamut = wide
edge enhancement = off


This is dedicated to an Xbox 360 via HDMI. Are these the settings to use?

I picked one of these up on Boxing Day for $549. I could have gotten it for less off Amazon, but I was able to verify that it has the W, so I assume it's S-IPS. This thread helped me make the decision to go with this rather than the Vizio Razor LED 37" from Amazon for $449.

I haven't used these settings yet, but when I played last night I noticed some jumping around of some of the effects in a game. I'm assuming it's game lag for now.

Thanks for the info, much appreciated..
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post #645 of 1549 Old 12-28-2010, 02:06 PM
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Help, does all your LD450 TV has light bleeding?

I got top right corner, bottom right corner, bottom middle bleeding.

Is there a way to fix that?

I have a 32LD450 IPS panel :O
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post #646 of 1549 Old 12-28-2010, 04:43 PM
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My IPS 37" has the least backlight bleeding that I've ever encountered on an emissive display. Uniformity is almost spot on at around 55-60% backlight brightness (which is what I have mine on).
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post #647 of 1549 Old 12-28-2010, 04:54 PM
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Version: 2011.02.23 (current up to post #1051)

Purpose

The purpose of this writeup is to inform potential buyers of the common strengths and weaknesses of the LG xxLD450 series. Also to act as a Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) for common problems and questions that current owners have.

Author’s Note: This writeup is based on the combination of my own personal opinions/thoughts and the collective opinions/thoughts expressed in this thread. If there’s something that is blatently wrong, or something that needs to be added, let me know. And finally, a big thanks to everyone that has posted in this thread -- I couldn't have come up with this writeup if it wasn't for your inputs .

Quick Summary

Pros:
- 1-2 frames of input lag (16-32 ms). Lowest lag of 2010 LCD TVs.
- Passes 4:4:4 chroma subsampling on HDMI ports.
- Extremely rich menu options.
- Uses S-IPS panels (beware panel lottery).

Cons:
- Suffers from the “panel lottery” issue.
- Black levels are pretty weak at 0.20 cd/m^2.
- Backlight uniformity issue along the screen edge.
- White flesh tones too yellow (not all panels?).
- Static noise when using the headphone jack.

If you will be primarily using your TV for gaming and/or as a PC monitor, then the LG xxLD450 series is arguably the best TV for you. This recommendation is based on measured proof and feedback from several owners. The xxLD450 is also decent enough for TV and movie watching, but there are better alternatives if these are your primary uses.

Official LG xxLD450 Specifications

32" - http://www.lg.com/us/tv-audio-video/...tv-32LD450.jsp
37" - http://www.lg.com/us/tv-audio-video/...tv-37LD450.jsp
42" - http://www.lg.com/us/tv-audio-video/...tv-42LD450.jsp
47" - http://www.lg.com/us/tv-audio-video/...tv-47LD450.jsp

2010 LG TV Comparison Chart


* Chart originally from Amazon

xxLD450 Alternatives

The alternatives listed here are strictly based on what I’ve personally seen with my own eyes. I can’t do a comparative for every TV out there, so there could very well be another TV out there that would blow these alternatives out of the water. But at the very least, you can use these as a starting point and work from there.

- Sony xxEX500 (comparable input lag and picture quality, better black levels, lacks 4:4:4 chroma subsampling (does 4:2:2 instead)).
- Vizio XVTxx3SV (better picture quality and black levels, lacks 4:4:4 chroma subsampling, very bad input lag).

Detailed Explanation of Pros

Very Low Input Lag

“Input lag” is the delay between the time a display receives a signal and the time it is actually gets shown on the display. Having low input lag is especially important for gamers because a large delay between joystick input and visual feedback can severely detract from gameplay. This is especially true for rhythm/synchronization games like Guitar Hero, Rockband, etc. Additionally, low input lag is desirable for PC/HTPC users because it mimics the “user experience” of what you already expect from a PC (i.e., instantaneous mouse cursor movements, snappy visual feedback from user input, etc).

The xxLD450 has a measured input lag of 1-2 frames (16-32 ms). Input lag test results can be found here: link. This makes the xxLD450 one of the best 2010 TVs (if not *the* best) when it comes to low input lag. Most other TVs have a minimum of 3+ frames (48+ ms). This based from my own input lag testing of several sets (link1, link2, link3, link4, link5) and from the input lag results of others (see the input lag wars thread: link)

4:4:4 Chroma Subsampling

“Chroma subsampling” is a video compression technique used to reduce the bandwidth required for transmitting digital imagery data. This is accomplished by “merging” the colors of neighboring pixels into one. In terms of actual TV picture quality, areas with two neighboring colors (especially red) will seem blurry and fuzzy without proper 4:4:4.

4:4:4 support is better described in pictures than in words, so check out these 4:4:4 test results: link1 and link2. The first one is the LG 32LD450 and the second is the Sony 32EX500. On the LG, all the vertical red lines are perfectly represented as a single column of red pixels. But on the Sony, the vertical red lines are represented as alternating columns of pure red (correct) and “faded” red (incorrect).

There are *very* few LCD TVs that can fully support 4:4:4 chroma. Colmino did an extensive search for 4:4:4 capable TVs, and hardly any were found. You can see his results here: link. Since most people have never seen full 4:4:4, they don’t know any better. But once you’ve seen 4:4:4 with you own eyes, you won’t accept anything less .

Note1: 4:4:4 support is generally only important for PC connections and game consoles. Pretty much all HD media (including bluray) is already subsampled down to 4:2:2 or lower.

Note2: For clearer and bigger 4:4:4 test results, see zoran0909's results (link)

Rich Menu Options

Of all the TVs I’ve tested, none come even close to the number of options available for tweaking than the xxLD450 (this is probably true for the other LD series). I won’t go into detail of every option available, but some notable highlights include:

- H-Sharpness and V-Sharpess
- 10 Point IRE Luminance
- Color Gamut
- Gamma
- RGB/YCM Color Compensation

S-IPS Panels

In the LCD world, there are multiple LCDs panel types. The most common types being In Plane Switching (IPS), Multi-Domain/Patterned Vertical Alignment (MVA/PVA), and Twisted Nematic (TN). A detailed description of each panel type is beyond the scope of this writeup, but if you want a detailed comparison, read this: link.

The IPS panel variant used in LG’s TV lineup is called Super IPS (S-IPS). Although S-IPS is an older variant of the IPS family (debut in 2001), its advantages still hold true against modern MVA/PVA and TN panel types. Here’s a quick list of key IPS advantages:

- Extremely wide viewing angles (178 degrees by 178 degrees)
- Wider color gamut (better color reproduction)
- Overall better picture quality and clarity (subjective, but generally agreed upon)

To put IPS technology in practical perspective, people who demand the best picture quality possible (i.e., photographers, CG artists, medical displays, etc) often seek displays equipped with IPS technology. However, despite its strengths, IPS technology has its share of weaknesses too, and those will be described in the following Cons section.

Detailed Explanation of Cons

LG Panel Lottery

The majority of LG’s 2010 LCD TV lineup (xx450, xx520, xx550, xx650, xxLE5300, xxLE5400, and possibly others) fall victim to the dreaded “panel lottery”. What this means is that a single LG model can be equipped with any of the panel types listed earlier. Fortunately, through collective observations on this forum, there is a surefire way of picking out a LG TV with the S-IPS panel type (the panel type that most people prefer). The key is to look at the product code / serial sticker that’s on the box. See here for an example: link. Note: this is a pic of a xxLE5400 box, but the xxLD450 box is pretty much identical to it.

For a S-IPS panel type, make sure the fourth character of the last text segment is a “W”. So for example, a 32LD450 with a full product code of “32LD450 - UA.CUSWLH” means this particular TV has a S-IPS panel type (because of the “W” character). Below is a compilation of panel types found so far with their associated fourth character...

W = S-IPS (common)
D = A-MVA (common)
I = IPS Alpha (rare) (link)
L = ?-MVA (rare) (link)
Z = S-IPS (rare) (link)

Backlight Uniformity Issue Along The Screen Edge

“Backlight uniformity” describes the LCD’s backlight distribution of light onto the screen. Perfect backlight uniformity means the backlight produces even lighting across the entire screen. Which allows colors (including white and black) to be represented without discoloration no matter where it is on the screen. But no matter how awesome or expensive a LCD is, perfect backlight uniformity does not exist.

With the xxLD450, backlight uniformity is particularly bad along the edges of the screen. See this as an example: link. Note: the pics are from the xxLD520, but xxLD450 owners have reported a similar effect. Theoretically, the white areas along the screen edge should be bright white just like it is in the center. But because those areas are not getting ample light from the backlight, the whites are darker in appearance.

The lack of backlight uniformity is extremely apparent with large areas of a single color (especially white or black). But in practice, staring at a static solid blob of one color when watching TV or playing a game is pretty infrequent. With an actual picture being displayed, backlight uniformity problems are not as noticeable. How “noticeable” it is depends on the sensitivity of your eyes and your room lighting. For me, as long as I’m not staring at a overly bright or overly dark screen, I do not even notice the problem (in fact, it was not until another poster pointed it out that I finally noticed the problem). But for a very few with high sensitivity, the backlight uniformity problem is definitely a concern.

Weak Black Levels

“Black level” is a measure of how dark a black color can be shown on the display. The lower the black level, the “blacker” the blacks will be. Conversely, the higher the black level, the “whiter/grayer” the blacks will be. Weak black levels goes hand-in-hand with the backlight uniformity problem described earlier. With traditional LCD technology, it is impossible to attain a perfect black level (unless you turn off the TV, but that kind of defeats the purpose ). But depending on how the TV manufacturer implements the backlight source, a blacker black is possible.

Unfortunately for the xxLD450, it has below-average black levels. De3k, who used a professional calibration/measurement tool, only managed to get a black level of 0.20 cd/m^2 (link). It could have gone lower, but it severely degraded overall picture quality. In comparison, a TV with a reputation of above-average black levels is the Sony xxEX500, which has a measured black level of 0.04 cd/m^2.

White Skin Tones Too Yellow

According to a few owners, white skin tones have a yellow discoloration. But from the observations of others and myself, skin tones look normal. Therefore, there’s only two possible explanations: 1) There is a genuine defect with some panels that cause skin tones to be yellow; or 2) This is a genuine defect on *all* panels, but some people’s eyes are not perceptible to it. My only recommendation for you is to look at the TV yourself at a local store. Since these TVs have a built-in photo viewer app through its usb port, bring in a few sample photos on a usb flash drive and check to see if this issue exists for you.

If you use rawashdeh's calibrated settings (found in Q2 of the FAQ), the yellow skin tones issue doesn't seem to be a problem. But if you want to use your own picture settings, there are some ways to mitigate the issue...

This is what De3k recommends: "The yellow skin tones, I can also attest to that. It's easiest to eliminate them in Game mode with the skin tone specific setting, but you can also mess with red tint to introduce a little pink if you want to stay under Expert. I also used my Nvidia CP "Hue" slider to tidy things up. I wasn't crazy about either solution, as tint and hue both mess with overall PQ." His original post can be found here: link.

The Angry Lion also has a fix: "Mine's an A-MVA panel set, and yeah, PBC's settings give me overly yellow skin tones. Right now I'm just using the settings I got for "expert 1" by using the built-in "picture wizard" calibration thing, and using that I don't seem to have the yellow skin tone problem." His original post can be found here: link.

Static Noise on Headphone Jack

When listening to audio through the xxLD450's headphone jack, there's noticeable static in the audio. Its especially noticeable during low volume audio, and the Halo Opening Theme (orchestral version) is a good sample to use to highlight the issue (link).

Currently there isn't a fix for this problem. The only viable workaround is to use the optical out port instead, which does not exhibit the static noise problem (verified by doctorwizz: link). To convert optical back to analog, you will need a converter like this one: link. Note, I personally have not tested this converter, so I can't guarantee it will work. But I certainly don't see a reason why it wouldn't work.

FAQ

Q1) How do I find a xxLD450 with the S-IPS panel?

Look at the product code sticker on the box. See this example for the location of the product code sticker: link. If the fourth character of the last segment of the product code is “W”, then its a S-IPS panel. Example1: “xxLD450 - UA.CUSWLH” means S-IPS. Example2: “xxLD450 - UA.CUSDLH” means MVA.

Q2) Do you have any recommended color settings to use?

A huge thanks to rawashdeh, as he's the first (to my knowledge) to provide xxLD450 color settings based on real calibration measurements. You can find his settings and corresponding color space charts here: link. Feedback from other owners have been extremely positive, so his settings are probably the best you're going to get.

If rawashdeh's picture settings seem too dim or too fuzzy to you, then I recommend these adjustments... Set Backlight to 70-80, set H/V Sharpness to 33/55, and set Edge Enhancer to Off.

Remember, all LD450's are created differently due to manufacturing variances, so none of rawashdeh's settings are absolute. You should use these as a starting point and adjust accordingly using LCD calibration images. Lagom.nl is a good source for some calibration images, you can find them here: link.

Prior to rawashdeh's calibrated settings, there were other non-calibrated settings that worked pretty well. If you want to give them a try, then here they are... My settings are geared towards PC monitor use, and you can find them here: link. jangaboo’s gaming-centric settings are pretty decent too: link. Finally, Phase700B’s settings can be found here: link.

Q3) You said the xxLD450 supports 4:4:4, but I’m not seeing it, what's wrong? -OR- Why is the overall picture quality fuzzy, especially red colored text?

After extensive research and experimentation by galneon and others, 4:4:4 sampling will not work if you use a direct HDMI->HDMI connection. For both Nvidia and ATI video cards, there appears to be something intrinsically wrong with the HDMI information exchange when HDMI video+audio is enabled, which forces 4:2:2. galneon's overall conclusion about this issue can be found here: link. If you want to read the entire chain of posts, start here: link. It is of interesting note that this problem is universal, and not just specific to the xxLD450.

Currently, there's only two workarounds. 1) Use your video card's DVI port with a DVI->HDMI adapter, or 2) Use the EDID Override fix . The EDID override disables the HDMI extensions which will force the TV to appear as a typical DVI monitor to your video card (as if you were using a DVI->HDMI adapter). However, by disabling the HDMI extensions, you no longer get audio over HDMI.

If you want to try the EDID Override fix, then the installation procedure for Windows can be found here: link. This fix should work on both Nvidia and ATI video cards, and on all sizes of the xxLD450. For Linux computers, you can use DarkNovaNick's instructions which can be found here: link.

In some rare cases, even if you are using a DVI->HDMI connection, you still won't get 4:4:4 sampling. If this is the case, then give the EDID Override fix a try. There are reports the EDID override fixes this instance as well.

And in the extreme worst case, 4:4:4 sampling will never work. No one has figured why this happens, since there are way too many variables at play. If you are an unfortunate victim of this outcome, then post a message about it and we'll try to help you out as much as we can.

Q4) How can I get into the service menu?

Unfortunately, getting into the service menu can’t be done using the standard LG remote. Apparently the remote lacks the capability to send a unique IR code to bring up the service menu password screen.

But if you have a Logitech Harmony remote, then you’re in luck. I used the directions found here: link, and it worked for me. Note: the password to get into EZ Adjust is 0413 or 0000.

Why bother going into the service menu? There's really only one big thing and one small thing worth doing. The big thing is to enable the Divx flag (Tool Option3, set Divx to 1). This will unlock the 'Movie List' feature under the My Media menu -- which is a standard feature found in the xxLD550 and up models. This allows you to play movie files from your USB flash drive connected to the USB port located on the side of the TV. The small thing is to enable the THX flag (Tool Option4, set THX to 1). This will unlock "THX Cinema" and "THX Bright Room" picture modes. The already available ISF Expert picture modes offer the best flexibility in customization, so these two THX modes are somewhat moot.

Within the service menu there are also other things like bluetooth and wifi. DO NOT enable these features. It is assumed that since the LD450 does not advertise these features, then they lack the physical hardware to support these features. As such, if you enable a feature that a TV is not designed for, then there's a very strong probability that you may brick your TV.

If you don't have a Logitech Harmony remote, there are posts about using a generic universal remote to get into the service menu on the xxLD450 thread on AVforum (link). These posts are scattered about, so just do a thread search (most relevant posts seem to be on pages 14-16). Just know that AVforum is predominantly catered for European models, so whatever procedures they have may not apply to the North American models.

Q5) I can’t look at the product code sticker because I want to order the xxLD450 online. So do you know if Amazon (or other online retailer) carry the xxLD450 with the “W”?

Online retailers are hit or miss. I personally ordered two 32”ers from Amazon back in Sept 2010 and both were the S-IPS versions. But equally on the other end, other people have ordered from Amazon and received MVA versions. There's a few guys over in the IPS-LE5300 thread that have bought several from Amazon and kept returning until they found an IPS one. Kind of comical actually, you can read the start of the chain here: link.

Q6) What’s the difference between the xxLD400 and xxLD450?

Colmino did a great comparison between the two. You can find the details here: link.

Q7) Does the xxLD450 have a PC sleep / wake-up feature?

Sleep, yes. When your PC stops sending a video signal, the display will show its “no signal” spinning logo for about 10 minutes (non-adjustable), and then turn itself off. Wake-up, no. To bring the display back on, you have to manually press the power button.

Q8) I’m using my TV as a PC monitor. Should I relabel my HDMI port to “PC”?

No, definitely not. When you relabel the HDMI port to “PC”, the Edge Enhancer is forced to High. This causes picture quality to be overly sharpened and things like text quality suffers. Aside from that, setting the “PC” label doesn’t seem to do anything else.

Q9) Since this is a 60 Hz TV, will I experience judder from 24p bluray content?

The xxLD450 has a pretty decent 3:2 pull down engine. I’ve watched Avatar in 1080p/24 and did not notice any judder at all. I do admit though, "artificial" movies like Avatar isn't the best material for testing judder. Material with expansive slow panning of large environments (i.e., Planet Earth, Life, etc) are better sources. So if anyone can test for 24p judder using this kind of material and report back, please do.

Current Theory - According to the "Real Cinema" mode definition in the TV manual (link, thanks 24k), it sounds like the xxLD450 is capable of displaying a true 48Hz picture. If that's the case, then 3:2 pulldown is not necessary, which effectively eliminates any judder problems. If someone has a method to validate true 48Hz capability, please do so and let us know of the results.

Q10) Is the A-MVA panel **really** that inferior to the S-IPS panel?

Not at all. Although most people prefer S-IPS, there are definitely people that enjoy the A-MVA panel. The Angry Lion had his LD450 disassembled for some repairs, and he found out the panel make of his 37" A-MVA is T370HW03 (link). From a quick google search, this is the same panel used in the Samsung C530 and Sony EX500 series, and both of those TVs have a very large happy fan base. NOTE: Although they may use the same panels, by no means is the picture quality identical. Other factors such as TV software, backlight implementation, anti-glare/polarizer coating, etc play a significant role in the final picture.

As for personal opinions, pcguru83 looked at both S-IPS and A-MVA versions and he prefers the A-MVA (link). The Angry Lion is also very happy with his A-MVA (link).

Q11) How do I check my display for 4:4:4 chroma sampling?

The "scientific" way is to use a small segment from the Belle-Nuit test chart, which can be found here: link. (If you want the full Belle-Nuit test chart, you can find it here: link). Make sure the image is at 100% zoom, and with the help of a magnifying glass (or the macro zoom of a camera, or if you have really good eyes) make sure the columns of red pixels look exactly like it does in this pic: link. If it does, then you have proper 4:4:4 sampling.

The "quick and dirty" way is to use this simple color chart: link. Pay close attention to the Red and Magenta columns. With a 4:4:4 capable display, the "Red" and "Magenta" text should be perfectly crisp and clear.
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post #650 of 1549 Old 12-28-2010, 05:36 PM
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Alright, so I set it up with Jangaboo's Xbox settings. I went through the wizard previously and left it at what we felt was 'correct.'

So, I adjusted with Jangaboo's settings and my wife just looked and said "wow, that looks amazing!"

We both play the xbox, and that's what this is primarily used for. This blows my panasonic plasma out of the water. Of course, I probably didn't have it set up correctly either, but this is like night and day, holy **** that looks good.

No detection of input lag at all playing COD: Black Ops.

Thanks for the settings!
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post #651 of 1549 Old 12-28-2010, 08:25 PM
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@ thepoohcontinuum: Very nice write-up, and well put together. I'm not sure whether or not it's necessary to be super specific, but I've got an 37LD450 with a "D" as the 4th letter in the last part of the product code, and my panel is an AU Optronics A-MVA panel. Obviously the page would contain some marketing speak, but here's AU Optronics' page detailing the tech: http://www.auo.com/?sn=198&lang=en-US

I suppose one advantage to that panel type might be better black levels versus an IPS panel, though I've never really experienced watching an IPS display, so I can't say with any level of certainty that that is indeed the case with this panel.

And as for panel lighting uniformity, to be honest, I don't notice that issue at all with my set, which could be down to one of 2 (or more) things:

1) This particular panel doesn't suffer that bad effect, or if it does, then perhaps to a lesser degree.

2) I've had a lot of eye lasering treatments done over the last 5 or so years, and one of the negative effects is that my eyes have trouble distinguishing things in low contrast situations (my night vision is terrible, for instance). So it could just be that I don't notice any bad lighting uniformity issues due to my crappy vision. I suppose I could take a couple of pictures with both a fully black and a fully white screen and upload them to let others judge, but I doubt there'd be much interest since most people want nothing but the IPS versions of the set.

I lack the equipment and know-how to do detailed inspections of my set's overall picture quality, but I don't personally have any real complaints with my A-MVA version of the set. But like I've said before, it could just be that I "don't know what I'm missing" since I've never had a chance to really check out an IPS set.

But again, a very nice write-up. It should prove extremely useful for potential buyers, and will give people an easy place to link directly to for people who have questions about the set.
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post #652 of 1549 Old 12-28-2010, 10:13 PM
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One PRO about this particular (and most S-IPS panels in general) is that while deep blacks are poor compared to a good S-PVA/MVA display, whites and bright level detail are stunning. Shadows and grays are also better reproduced on this LCD than on something like an entry-level edge-lit LED of the CC5000, which has amazing blacks (below 0.05 once calibrated) but noticeably lower shadow and brighter details.
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post #653 of 1549 Old 12-28-2010, 11:20 PM
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awesome job with faq thepoohcontinuum

the skin tone being too yellow issue, does anyone notice the skin tones are more red with Vivid Picture mode?

Adjust game mode and vivid picture mode to have exact settings/advanced settings and then flip between them, i notice vivid adds more red to skin tones whereas game mode is more yellow (natural picture mode in earlier LG sets also changed the way colors displayed really highlighting greens)
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post #654 of 1549 Old 12-29-2010, 12:52 AM
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yep im going to return my model to costco and hope to get a more uniform screen.
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post #655 of 1549 Old 12-29-2010, 11:33 AM
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I took a couple of pictures of my A-MVA panel version of the TV (37" version) to see if there was any real lighting uniformity issue. After taking a close look at things, there is a bit of darkening in the corners, but it doesn't seem too bad to my admittedly inexperienced eyes. Bear in mind that both of these pictures were taken with the backlight set to maximum (and with dynamic contrast turned off), so the effect may be exaggerated compared to typical user viewing situations. My eyes have trouble in low contrast situations, so perhaps I just don't see the issue at all when using the TV since the difference in areas (corners vs. the rest of the display) isn't that great.

I took 2 shots:

Not sure if that's any better or worse than the reported issue with the IPS version of the TV... Like I said, when I'm using the TV, I don't notice anything at all, to be honest. The black screen seems pretty black to me.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Angry Lion View Post


Thanks for the pics. I have the IPS variant, and your white pic is similar to what I see on my screens. While there is definitely a backlight uniformity problem, like you say, when you're actually watching TV or playing a game or whatever, the backlight issue isn't really noticeable. At the very least, it certainly doesn't ruin a TV show or movie I'm watching. And this is coming from eyes that hasn't been all laze'd up
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thepoohcontinuum View Post

Thanks for the pics.

No problem. And again, thank you for all of your great contributions to the thread.

So what about the black picture I took? With the S-IPS version, with the backlight set to maximum and dynamic contrast turned off in a dim room (like in my pic), does the black actually look a lot more grey than that? Or is it roughly the same under similar circumstances? I'm just curious since I've never seen an IPS panel in person.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Angry Lion View Post

So what about the black picture I took? With the S-IPS version, with the backlight set to maximum and dynamic contrast turned off in a dim room (like in my pic), does the black actually look a lot more grey than that? Or is it roughly the same under similar circumstances? I'm just curious since I've never seen an IPS panel in person.

Capturing black levels using a camera is kind of tough, since the camera's sensor might not be sensitive enough to capture the minuscule amount of light bleed from the screen (even though your eyes may say otherwise). So I don't pay much attention to those kind of pics.

Looking at my S-IPS, with backlight at max and dyn. contrast turned off, the blacks are not as black as the black paint on the bezel, but its definitely black enough. Would I call it a *very very* dark gray? Nope. Would I call it a *very very very very* dark gray? Yeah
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post #659 of 1549 Old 12-29-2010, 02:19 PM
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@ thepoohcontinuum: Yeah, I suppose you're probably right about it being hard to capture such a thing with a camera (or at least with a cheap-ish one like the one I used).

Since people such as yourself on this forum seem helpful and pleasant, I almost feel I should have chosen a different forum name since there's little to get angry about.
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Hi there, I have a rather "special" 37LD450... I'm pretty sure it's an IPS panel (great viewing angles prove this) but the fouth character in the product no. is "Z". I haven't found anyone owning similar yet. Looking at the back I found the panel's made by LG, code no. lc370wug
Overall picture quality is fine, but I have a problem with black colour - a lot of detail seems to get lost in the darkest shades. Fiddling with basic picture settings didn't help. Can anyone with the same panel type provide any hints, how to get better PQ?
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