Official LG XXLD450 Thread - Page 35 - AVS Forum
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post #1021 of 1549 Old 02-21-2011, 02:19 PM
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I have a similar problem in addition to blue as well, not too sure what to do, might start playing with the settings latter again to perfect it.
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post #1022 of 1549 Old 02-21-2011, 02:20 PM
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nice configs, i have changed it a little so it looks better on my eyes... changed contrast to 76, brightness to 65, and blu to 2 instead of 5...

if i use 5 on blue the whites get way to bright geting close to blues... and color looks chrashed

and on my set i noticed what Raging Chicken said, "edge enhancing LOW (this is a bug , low in my set is OFF in reality ...compare low and off , maybe adjust sharpness according)" the same thing happens here
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post #1023 of 1549 Old 02-21-2011, 02:48 PM
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New settings to calm down the blue a little bit:


Code:
Best settings expert 1                                                                                  
                                                                                        
BACKLIGHT       48                                                                              
CONTRAST        81                                                                              
BRIGHTNESS      69                                                                              
H SHARPNESS     65                                                                              
V SHARPNESS     54                                                                              
COLOR   50                                                                              
TINT    G3                                                                              
                                                                                        
BLACK LEVEL     LOW                                                                             
COLOR   BT709                                                                           
EDGE ENHANCER   Low                                                                             
COLOR TEMPREATURE       WARM                                                                            
GAMA    2.2                                                                             
METHOD  10 PONT                                                                         
IRE     100     90      80      70      60      50      40      30      20      10      0
LUMINANCE       150                                                                             
RED     3       0       9       5       7       7       8       16      10      9       50
GREEN   1       0       0       0       2       0       0       12      5       2       -50
BLUE    6       25      22      19      17      12      14      20      15      3       -50
                                                                                        
CMS                                                                                     
RED COLOR       -1                                                                              
RED TINT        6                                                                               
GREEN COLOR     2                                                                               
GREEN TINT      8                                                                               
BLUE COLOR      -2                                                                              
BLUE TINT       -11                                                                             
YELLOW COLOR    0                                                                               
YELLOW TINT     -1                                                                              
CYAN COLOR      1                                                                               
CYAN TINT       1                                                                               
MAGENTA COLOR   18                                                                              
MAGENTA TINT    8                                                                               







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post #1024 of 1549 Old 02-22-2011, 05:04 AM
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I will post my experience in case someone knows what is going on.

I had the 32Ld450 connected with HDMI-HDMI. Image looked very good but probably no 4:4:4 as with this image red and magenta looked a bit blured.

img.photobucket.com/albums/v293/nuker43/inputlag/TintBlueRGB.png?t=1287963155

So I use the EDID override and then image looked the same, audio was still working and I lost the Chroma selection from the Catalyst software (Ati 5770)

I went back to the old generic monitor driver and all is the same, but still the Chroma selection in catalyst is lost. I will restore the computer to an early stage, but any ideas, why sound is still working with the EDID override?
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post #1025 of 1549 Old 02-22-2011, 09:42 AM
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Getting the 47 shipped this week. I've been going through this thread for info but I wanted to know from PS3 owners if they have any specific settings within the ps3 or the tv that work very well?
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post #1026 of 1549 Old 02-22-2011, 05:46 PM
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I finally got the 42" LG LCD TV. I am a bit of a nut when it comes to setting up HDTV's properly. I have a W panel and so far I am very happy with this set.

The only complaint I have is that the black levels are not as good as some of the newer LED TV's, but it was totally what I expected for a TV of this price (I got it for $529 CAN). This only happens when you have a screen that is mostly black, but the blacks look great when mixed with lots of colour.

I only use this with my PC laptop via HDMI. When all the video changing settings are turned off (edge enhancement, dynamic colour,etc), and you are running properly in 1080p with no scaling... there is no lag, great colour, and a crisp picture. If you know how to set up your PC properly, this set makes a great monitor and TV for movies and games.

While it may not be on par with my SAMSUNG 61" LED DLP TV (which is 4 years old now), it is very good for its price.

If people know how to setup their tv's, they would be very happy with them. I have made many of my friends happy after showing them what their tv and PC should look like.
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post #1027 of 1549 Old 02-22-2011, 09:50 PM
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does no one else here notice a humming noise from their LD450? its hard to discern unless the TV volume is low or quiet/muted. then it is very noticeable.

the only fix I have found is it goes away when you switch the backlight to 99 or 100. so it must be an issue with the backlight. I'm curious if this is a flaw in all models or just some of them. hopefully it can be fixed or I will just have to get used to the backlight at max or the humming noise.

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Originally Posted by darklordjames
Please ignore the entire contents of Excellent's post. His advice is not, ahem, "excellent".
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post #1028 of 1549 Old 02-22-2011, 11:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Excellent View Post

does no one else here notice a humming noise from their LD450? its hard to discern unless the TV volume is low or quiet/muted. then it is very noticeable.

the only fix I have found is it goes away when you switch the backlight to 99 or 100. so it must be an issue with the backlight. I'm curious if this is a flaw in all models or just some of them. hopefully it can be fixed or I will just have to get used to the backlight at max or the humming noise.

Last week when copying files to my laptop over my wireless network I noticed a hum over hdmi when no audio was being sent. I believe the tv is not shielded against interference very well and its picking up outside noise.

ÂI felt that here at last was a chance to expose the U.S. public to fine art at reasonable pricesÂ
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post #1029 of 1549 Old 02-23-2011, 12:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Excellent View Post

does no one else here notice a humming noise from their LD450? its hard to discern unless the TV volume is low or quiet/muted. then it is very noticeable.

the only fix I have found is it goes away when you switch the backlight to 99 or 100. so it must be an issue with the backlight. I'm curious if this is a flaw in all models or just some of them. hopefully it can be fixed or I will just have to get used to the backlight at max or the humming noise.

My 37LD450 has a low buzzing hum to it, and I've complained about it before. It wasn't there at all when I first got the set, but started happening after a few months. I sit close to the TV, and never have the volume up high, so it's noticeable and annoying to me. Like with your set, my backlight buzzing goes away if I set the backlight to maximum, and also turn off the "dynamic contrast" in the advanced picture controls since that feature sometimes auto-dims the backlight to a level lower than maximum. So, for now, I've just had to get used to the backlight being at 100%, which doesn't ruin things for me, though ideally I'd like to have it set to between 40-60.

I even tried to get LG to fix the problem since the set is still under warranty. They got me to get in touch with the local LG dealer here in town, and I explained the problem to them. They tried to tell me the problem is "normal" and that "all LCD sets have that hum", which I knew was nonsense, especially since the very set I'm using didn't have the issue at all for the first few months. Anyway, since it seemed backlight related, they ordered me in a whole new LCD panel/backlight assembly, and replaced mine with it. Much to my dismay, the problem is still there... The technician kept trying to sell me on the idea that it was totally normal, like he wouldn't believe me when I told him the sound definitely wasn't there at the start. Personally, I'm convinced it must be humming coming from something like a voltage regulator connected to the backlight (something like a dimmer switch for the CCFL tube that lets it dim itself to below maximum if you adjust it that way) causing the buzzing, but the guys at the local authorized LG dealer just kept brushing me off by telling me the noise was normal. Kind of irritating.

My LG warranty ends in June, and after that the extended warranty from the store where I bought it kicks in (got a 3 year extended warranty), so I'm thinking that if the problem is still there once June rolls around, I might just try and see if the store will simply exchange it for a new set, assuming they'll still be carrying 37LD450's.

But yeah, wish I had better news to report on the matter, like something that could fix it.
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post #1030 of 1549 Old 02-23-2011, 04:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hueyn View Post

Hi,

I just got a 42" ld450. I can't seem to select "just scan" as the aspect ratio. That option is grey'd out and I can't figure out how to enable it for selection.

Can someone help me out on this one?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Quote:
Originally Posted by hueyn View Post

The input is not labeled. I tried HDMI 1 and 2 but both gave me all options except "just scan".

I can see the bootup screen for my htpc (zotac 9300 mini-itx mboard, with onboard nvidia graphis, vista) but once it gets to the login screen, the tv says "no signal". I am wondering if anyone has similar problem.

I had this HTPC hooked up via hdmi to a 32" samsung lcd tv prior to this LG tv with "just scan" for aspect ratio. It all worked just fine. I'm not sure what's going on with this TV that I'm not getting configured right.

Thanks in advance if anyone has any idea what's going on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hueyn View Post

Thanks for your response. I was actually able to use a separate lcd monitor hooked up via the rgb port and was able to set the rez and refresh rate for the second monitor (which is the LG tv) but when switched over to the hdmi input, it is still "no signal".

Any other thoughts?

Thanks

I just wanted to have this information out there, as it did not come up when I searched for it through google:

Zotac ZBOXHD-ND22-U (ION first generation) works with the LG 42LD450 as long as you install this driver:
"win7-winvista-32bit-266.58-whql-driver" (I'm presently unable to post the URL due to spammers and my low post count.)

You will probably have to hook up the ND22 to a computer monitor or using a method other than HDMI while installing windows, as you lose the video signal with LG 42LD450 (HDMI) before the Windows install completes. (You will be unable to boot into safe mode to install the aforementioned driver until Windows is completely installed, as far as I know.)

Zotac ZBOXHD-ND22-U + LG 42LD450 + Windows 7 32 bit + 266.58 WHQL driver
= Works very well, so far as my limited usage shows. I have only had it working since late last night.
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post #1031 of 1549 Old 02-23-2011, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redman123 View Post

I finally got the 42" LG LCD TV. I am a bit of a nut when it comes to setting up HDTV's properly. I have a W panel and so far I am very happy with this set.

The only complaint I have is that the black levels are not as good as some of the newer LED TV's, but it was totally what I expected for a TV of this price (I got it for $529 CAN). This only happens when you have a screen that is mostly black, but the blacks look great when mixed with lots of colour.

I only use this with my PC laptop via HDMI. When all the video changing settings are turned off (edge enhancement, dynamic colour,etc), and you are running properly in 1080p with no scaling... there is no lag, great colour, and a crisp picture. If you know how to set up your PC properly, this set makes a great monitor and TV for movies and games.

While it may not be on par with my SAMSUNG 61" LED DLP TV (which is 4 years old now), it is very good for its price.

If people know how to setup their tv's, they would be very happy with them. I have made many of my friends happy after showing them what their tv and PC should look like.


Redman -- care to share the type of video card you have and the settings on your LG?
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post #1032 of 1549 Old 02-23-2011, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rawashdeh View Post

New settings to calm down the blue a little bit:

With your settings on my 47" S-IPS, I was getting severe white crush. Using the white saturation test from lagom (link), I could only make out blocks 200, 244, and 245. I had to dial down the contrast setting to around 70 before I could make out blocks up to 252. I also bumped up the backlight setting to around 65, as it helped make whites whiter.

I also changed Edge Enhancer to Off, and set H/V Sharpness to 33/55. For my particular set, it made text a little bit more sharper and got rid most of the ringing/halo artifacts around text.

As for the "skin too yellow" issue, your settings definitely alleviates this problem. I was switching back and forth between my settings and your settings, and there was a definite change.

Overall, your settings are very good. I tested the picture quality using a PC/xbox/ps3, and things looked great. Thanks for your hard work and sharing this info with the rest of us.
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post #1033 of 1549 Old 02-23-2011, 08:02 AM
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For you guys getting the "backlight humming" issue, are you feeding audio to the TV and using the TV speakers?

For me, I'm only feeding video to my sets and I can't hear any humming at all... even if the TV volume is at 0 or max, or if my backlight is at 50 to 100.
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post #1034 of 1549 Old 02-23-2011, 08:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rf900 View Post

I will post my experience in case someone knows what is going on.

I had the 32Ld450 connected with HDMI-HDMI. Image looked very good but probably no 4:4:4 as with this image red and magenta looked a bit blured.

img.photobucket.com/albums/v293/nuker43/inputlag/TintBlueRGB.png?t=1287963155

So I use the EDID override and then image looked the same, audio was still working and I lost the Chroma selection from the Catalyst software (Ati 5770)

I went back to the old generic monitor driver and all is the same, but still the Chroma selection in catalyst is lost. I will restore the computer to an early stage, but any ideas, why sound is still working with the EDID override?

You restarted your computer after installing the EDID fix, right?

If so, I'm not sure what's going on. The point of the EDID fix is to disable the HDMI extensions so things like HDMI audio should be completely disabled. Since you're still getting audio, somehow the HDMI extensions are still getting through.

Try this... Uninstall the EDID fix and delete the associated drivers when doing it, restart computer, then install the latest Catalyst suite, restart computer, install the EDID fix again, and restart computer.
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post #1035 of 1549 Old 02-23-2011, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thepoohcontinuum View Post

With your settings on my 47" S-IPS, I was getting severe white crush. Using the white saturation test from lagom (link), I could only make out blocks 200, 244, and 245. I had to dial down the contrast setting to around 70 before I could make out blocks up to 252. I also bumped up the backlight setting to around 65, as it helped make whites whiter.

I also changed Edge Enhancer to Off, and set H/V Sharpness to 33/55. For my particular set, it made text a little bit more sharper and got rid most of the ringing/halo artifacts around text.

As for the "skin too yellow" issue, your settings definitely alleviates this problem. I was switching back and forth between my settings and your settings, and there was a definite change.

Overall, your settings are very good. I tested the picture quality using a PC/xbox/ps3, and things looked great. Thanks for your hard work and sharing this info with the rest of us.

Are you mirroring your HDTV settings with your Video card settings when it comes to brightness and contrast ?
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post #1036 of 1549 Old 02-23-2011, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by hboogz View Post

Are you mirroring your HDTV settings with your Video card settings when it comes to brightness and contrast ?

I leave my video card color settings completely default, and do all the tweaking on the TV.
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post #1037 of 1549 Old 02-23-2011, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thepoohcontinuum View Post

For you guys getting the "backlight humming" issue, are you feeding audio to the TV and using the TV speakers?

For me, I'm only feeding video to my sets and I can't hear any humming at all... even if the TV volume is at 0 or max, or if my backlight is at 50 to 100.

I use the TV speakers only, and hear it over component, HDMI and cable TV.

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Angry Lion View Post

My 37LD450 has a low buzzing hum to it, and I've complained about it before. It wasn't there at all when I first got the set, but started happening after a few months. I sit close to the TV, and never have the volume up high, so it's noticeable and annoying to me. Like with your set, my backlight buzzing goes away if I set the backlight to maximum, and also turn off the "dynamic contrast" in the advanced picture controls since that feature sometimes auto-dims the backlight to a level lower than maximum. So, for now, I've just had to get used to the backlight being at 100%, which doesn't ruin things for me, though ideally I'd like to have it set to between 40-60.

I even tried to get LG to fix the problem since the set is still under warranty. They got me to get in touch with the local LG dealer here in town, and I explained the problem to them. They tried to tell me the problem is "normal" and that "all LCD sets have that hum", which I knew was nonsense, especially since the very set I'm using didn't have the issue at all for the first few months. Anyway, since it seemed backlight related, they ordered me in a whole new LCD panel/backlight assembly, and replaced mine with it. Much to my dismay, the problem is still there... The technician kept trying to sell me on the idea that it was totally normal, like he wouldn't believe me when I told him the sound definitely wasn't there at the start. Personally, I'm convinced it must be humming coming from something like a voltage regulator connected to the backlight (something like a dimmer switch for the CCFL tube that lets it dim itself to below maximum if you adjust it that way) causing the buzzing, but the guys at the local authorized LG dealer just kept brushing me off by telling me the noise was normal. Kind of irritating.

My LG warranty ends in June, and after that the extended warranty from the store where I bought it kicks in (got a 3 year extended warranty), so I'm thinking that if the problem is still there once June rolls around, I might just try and see if the store will simply exchange it for a new set, assuming they'll still be carrying 37LD450's.

But yeah, wish I had better news to report on the matter, like something that could fix it.

doesnt seem normal to me, even my cheapo 20 inch sharp panel is dead silent.

I dont mind the backlight at 100 other than it might wear the TV out more, so its not a big enough issue for me to get a new TV, but it still sucks.

for games its perfect though since the game consoles drown out the TV humming. and no lag even on my PS2.

Quote:
Originally Posted by darklordjames
Please ignore the entire contents of Excellent's post. His advice is not, ahem, "excellent".
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post #1038 of 1549 Old 02-23-2011, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by thepoohcontinuum View Post

For you guys getting the "backlight humming" issue, are you feeding audio to the TV and using the TV speakers?

For me, I'm only feeding video to my sets and I can't hear any humming at all... even if the TV volume is at 0 or max, or if my backlight is at 50 to 100.

Yes, all of the things I do with the TV involve having audio fed to it: SD cable TV (over coax), DVD player hooked in through HDMI, and PS2 hooked in through component. And I only use the TV's own speakers. The humming itself comes from within the set and not through the speakers (like you'd expect with RF interference), as the hum is always present when the backlight's set to anything less than maximum, even with the speakers muted, or even completely disabled through the TV's audio menu.

I wonder if having the backlight at maximum really does shorten the CCFL's life though. When you've got it set to a dimmer setting, isn't the current to it being modulated in such a way as a dimmer switch would do, by rapidly pulsing the light, almost like a strobe set to a very fast level to achieve the overall dimming effect? If that's the case, then wouldn't that actually be harder on the CCFL overall (the rapid pulsing), rather than just letting it burn steadily at full intensity? That may be an incredibly stupid assumption and question, as I have no real knowledge in those areas, so take it easy on me if I'm talking nonsense.
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post #1039 of 1549 Old 02-23-2011, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Angry Lion View Post

Yes, all of the things I do with the TV involve having audio fed to it: SD cable TV (over coax), DVD player hooked in through HDMI, and PS2 hooked in through component. And I only use the TV's own speakers. The humming itself comes from within the set and not through the speakers (like you'd expect with RF interference), as the hum is always present when the backlight's set to anything less than maximum, even with the speakers muted, or even completely disabled through the TV's audio menu.

The thing I'm trying to figure out is if enabling audio (even if muted) is the catalyst that causes the backlight humming. Which would be pretty strange given these are two completely separate components, but stranger things have happened. I'll test my TV tonight for the humming issue by feeding hdmi audio to it, and then I'll report back.
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post #1040 of 1549 Old 02-23-2011, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by thepoohcontinuum View Post

The thing I'm trying to figure out is if enabling audio (even if muted) is the catalyst that causes the backlight humming. Which would be pretty strange given these are two completely separate components, but stranger things have happened. I'll test my TV tonight for the humming issue by feeding hdmi audio to it, and then I'll report back.

I suppose you mean just having active audio fed into the TV? Because as I've said, I've even had the TV's speakers disabled through the TV's audio menu, and the buzzing hum was still present. I suppose I could try unhooking my DVD player and cable TV, and try unplugging just the audio cables for my PS2 and see if turning down the backlight still produces a buzzing hum. The TV wouldn't be being fed any possible audio signals that way. I'll be interested in hearing your report, too.

I've only heard a relatively small number of complaints about the buzzing hum issue though (I've even asked and got few reports of it), so it could be that just certain unlucky people get the issue. Either that, or most other people have their TV's volume set to a high enough level to mask the buzzing hum.

As for the other thing I mentioned about having the CCFL backlight dimmed down possibly shortening its life, I just did a little quick checking on Google, and it sounds as though with modern dimmable CCFL lights dimming might not be an issue, and may have no adverse effects on the light's lifespan. It was just a very quick search though, so I still don't know much about the issue (or even if there is one).
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post #1041 of 1549 Old 02-23-2011, 11:20 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rawashdeh View Post

Ok, after many hours fighting with the tv, computer and calibration I present settings for a calibrated tv to the best of my ability with meter readings to backup the settings.

A lot of info about this TV can be taken from these measurments.

* Disclaimer: every panel is different, what works for me might not work for your panel, but at least point IPS users toward the right settings*

Congratulations!

Your settings are the most sane settings I've seen in the "xxLD450" thread in a long time.

Owners should take note of what you have. No matter what your input, in order to get the best black levels with no black crush, BackLight should be 50 or below (as you have), preferably between 25 and 40 if your room lighting permits it. It's all about ambient room light, with no direct light shining on the screen. And, it's always better to increase Brightness than BackLight to increase details in low light picture areas.

Lastly, the best and cheapest way to enhance picture quality perception is to install a 13 watt, 850 lumen, 5500K -6500K compact florescent light behind the TV, reflecting and providing soft, indirect light from the wall and the ceiling above the TV. Any other lights should be well off to the sides, and again, reflected and indirect off the walls/ceiling. The owners in the XXLD550 thread have just found out the merits of this after breaking down and just trying it. They were amazed at the increase in picture quality and the ease on their eyes! Just some friendly advice. Keep up the good work! I still keep wanting a 47LD450 for my lower level/HTPC use.
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post #1042 of 1549 Old 02-23-2011, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Phase700B View Post

Owners should take note of what you have. No matter what your input, in order to get the best black levels with no black crush, BackLight should be 50 or below (as you have), preferably between 25 and 40 if your room lighting permits it. It's all about ambient room light, with no direct light shining on the screen. And, it's always better to increase Brightness than BackLight to increase details in low light picture areas.

I'm not refuting what you said, but lets say your source material is generally devoid of dark colors and more on the white side (ex., typical PC desktop usage), would increasing the backlight to make whites whiter be the wrong approach? This is the approach I've been using, since adjusting brightness/contrast makes colors duller, whereas backlight gets whites whiter but still keeping colors vibrant.
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post #1043 of 1549 Old 02-23-2011, 11:59 AM
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...I suppose I could try unhooking my DVD player and cable TV, and try unplugging just the audio cables for my PS2 and see if turning down the backlight still produces a buzzing hum. The TV wouldn't be being fed any possible audio signals that way...

Just tried it, and the buzzing hum is still there when I switched to the component input my PS2 is hooked in through, with the component's audio cables unplugged (and the PS2 turned on). As soon as I brought down the baclight level from maximum, the buzzing hum came back, and it'd disappear as soon as I set the backlight back to 100%.

What's interesting to note is that when I switch to an input such as component, but before I have the connected device turned on (so the screen is black), the hum is present even with the backlight setting for that input set to 100%. The hum, with the backlight set to 100%, only disappears after the connected device in question is on and sends a video signal to the TV.

Also odd is that with all of the above stuff in question unplugged, when I'd switch to the tuner/RF input where there was snow showing, the buzzing hum was not present at all (with or without the speakers muted). Even when I brought the backlight down to lower levels in this particular case, the buzzing hum was not there.

It's a confusing problem to figure out (not that I should be able to with my extremely limited knowledge of the inner workings of electronics).
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post #1044 of 1549 Old 02-23-2011, 12:23 PM
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FWIW, I'm using an NVIDIA geoforce 6200 card and hear absolutely zero humming from my unit. I'm using an HDMI > DVI connection.

Thanks for the tip on the CFL lighting and about the backlight vs brightness. I can't imagine my set running at 100 backlight.
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post #1045 of 1549 Old 02-23-2011, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by hboogz View Post

FWIW, I'm using an NVIDIA geoforce 6200 card and hear absolutely zero humming from my unit. I'm using an HDMI > DVI connection.

Thanks for the tip on the CFL lighting and about the backlight vs brightness. I can't imagine my set running at 100 backlight.

Thank you very much for your input on the matter. It's greatly appreciated.

As for the part about backlight life vs. brightness, you did catch my following post on the matter after I first made that speculation? The post where I said I did a quick Google search and found out that maybe it's not an issue at all (from the little I read)? I just don't want to be spreading misinformation. The first post on the matter where I was wondering if it was an issue was sheer uneducated speculation on my part, and sounds like it may only really be an issue with older, regular CFL lights which can't be dimmed in the same way incandescent bulbs can be (through electrical resistance).
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post #1046 of 1549 Old 02-23-2011, 01:34 PM
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On a somewhat related note, would anyone have a good reference and/or site where I can take a look at lighting? I have a halogen track above the HDTV and I've been meaning to replace it with something modern and, of course, efficient. I really like the look of a light bar, but can't seem to find a resource online that stocks something similar.
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post #1047 of 1549 Old 02-23-2011, 02:20 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thepoohcontinuum View Post

I'm not refuting what you said, but lets say your source material is generally devoid of dark colors and more on the white side (ex., typical PC desktop usage), would increasing the backlight to make whites whiter be the wrong approach? This is the approach I've been using, since adjusting brightness/contrast makes colors duller, whereas backlight gets whites whiter but still keeping colors vibrant.

Well, first it's only a matter of preference to some extent, but yes, generally increasing backlight will make white very white with the additional right IRE settings. Especially if "Medium" color temp is use as some prefer. Now that being said setting backlight in the 60's to 80's still has it's consequences and that will be lot's more light leakage on an all "black" screen. I'm sure you know pretty much how an LCD panel works, but for the audience, the LCD pixels act like light valves either allowing the back light to show, or blocking it; and various levels in between.

The problem is that when the pixels are blocking the back light source they can only do it to a certain level based on the technology of the panel. In most cases just for the sake of the discussion, it would be a VA or IPS panel. Either of them offer a fairly good black level, but only within reason. The higher the back light level, the more light will leak through on a "black" screen or area. White will surely be bright, but black will suffer and be more "gray". But it also depends on ambient light in the room and any light that might be directed to the screen. Ambient light will mask light leakage to a degree and result in an altered black level that our eye perceives. In other words, higher ambient light will make the TV black level appear better than it is to a degree.

As far as colors being "duller" I guess it depends on point of view to some extent. If a TV is calibrated to a "warm" 6500K color temperature colors and over all light output will be more subdued or what is called "natural". That doesn't mean everyone will like it. But, a TV picture can only display an accurate color palette within a certain light output based on it's design and choice of internal components and LCD panel. The TV needs to operate within the linear gamma region it is capable of for accurate color and light output. Generally, a TV calibrated at 6500K "warm" will have more depth to image appearance, images and light variations will seem more 3D, and flesh tones will usually be more natural. Now, if an owner wants a super bright picture, leans towards the cooler color temperature, then, sure an overall brighter picture can be obtained. I am no video "purist" and I believe an owner should use a picture setting that pleases his/her taste. . . mmm, within reason. A high back light level, for instance, also shortens back light life and consumes more energy. That may not matter to an owner, so again, preference. But from what I have seen in the LD line of TVs, operating higher than 25 to 40, unless using the Energy Saving option, does result in a trade off of optimum black level.

When all is said and done, I guess I say this. I usually tell people and new owners of an LCD TV, for normal TV viewing of DVD/BD, broadcast network OTA sources, and/or cable or satellite; that the picture should look as close like the image is right there in the room with them or outside their window. I tell them about ambient light and its affects on the TV picture. And then let them decide what they want. Lastly, I will say this. Some of it depends on what an owner's eye has grown used to. If an owner previously only had an older CRT TV, stares at a computer monitor a lot of the day, or is used to a lot of CGI images as in gaming; they will generally perceive a warm, 6500K calibration as "dull". And there's nothing wrong or right about that. It's just a choice, but it should be an educated choice with an understanding of the trade offs and benefits.

Boy, that was longer than I wanted, but I tried to put this in non technical terms and also not offend anyone's personal choice either.
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post #1048 of 1549 Old 02-23-2011, 02:22 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hboogz View Post

On a somewhat related note, would anyone have a good reference and/or site where I can take a look at lighting? I have a halogen track above the HDTV and I've been meaning to replace it with something modern and, of course, efficient. I really like the look of a light bar, but can't seem to find a resource online that stocks something similar.

Amazon has some specialized lighting but I don't have the link right now. Generally, your local Home Depot or Lowe's has a lot of choises.
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post #1049 of 1549 Old 02-23-2011, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Angry Lion View Post

What's interesting to note is that when I switch to an input such as component, but before I have the connected device turned on (so the screen is black), the hum is present even with the backlight setting for that input set to 100%. The hum, with the backlight set to 100%, only disappears after the connected device in question is on and sends a video signal to the TV.

when an input is getting no signal the backlight automatically dims, thats why it hums. when you turn on a device connected to that input the backlight adjusts back up.

I put in rawashdeh's settings, adjusted color temp to medium and backlight to 100 and it looks fantastic. thank you for all your hard work tweaking. those settings should be posted in Pooh's faq or the front page of this thread.

still wondering if the backlight at max will physically hurt the TV. PQ looks great even with it at 100 for me as I prefer a bright picture and the blacks are black enough.

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Please ignore the entire contents of Excellent's post. His advice is not, ahem, "excellent".
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post #1050 of 1549 Old 02-23-2011, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Excellent View Post

when an input is getting no signal the backlight automatically dims, thats why it hums. when you turn on a device connected to that input the backlight adjusts back up.

I put in rawashdeh's settings, adjusted color temp to medium and backlight to 100 and it looks fantastic. thank you for all your hard work tweaking. those settings should be posted in Pooh's faq or the front page of this thread.

still wondering if the backlight at max will physically hurt the TV. PQ looks great even with it at 100 for me as I prefer a bright picture and the blacks are black enough.

I re-assessed my settings and spent a few hours adjusting my settings based on raw's input along with continum's as well. And, I've changed to expert mode, change the color temp to warm and adjust all my settings accordingly and, voila, an even better picture and still crystal clear text. Amazing.

I can't see image 252 in the white/grey test continum posted a few posts back, but I'm able to see up until 251 without compromising colors on other websites. I'm having a minor issue with light blue's, but my current settings resolve the issues I was having with shadows and deep blacks.

Thanks again.
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